[RBW] shellac on brown tape

[Aaron Young]

I think I see small bits of amber shellac at the ends of the tape (near the
twine and on the right bar end shifter). It's possible with amber shellac
the tape was originally a much lighter color. Tan or gray maybe???

If you have some left over bar take, maybe try a bit of clear or amber
shellac on that to get an idea of what a full treatment might look like.
Clear shellac is a safe way to go at first. It darkens a little. Then if
it's not enough for your taste, then try amber.

Good luck.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sunday, January 3, 2016, dstein <davecst...@gmail.com
<javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','davecst...@gmail.com');>> wrote:

> It's Sunday and RBW is closed so maybe the group can help me out here.
>
> Does the brown handlebar tape in these Albastache pictures look shellac'd
> to you: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb3a.htm
>
> I just rewrapped my albastache bars with brown tape but it looks lighter
> than in the website pictures. I want a darker tint brown without getting it
> too shiny, I like the matte look of unfinished handlebar tape. Can't tell
> if the bars in the website look darker because of the photo and my computer
> screen, or if it has a light layer of shellac or two.
>
>
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Re: [RBW] New Silver or Grand Cru Crankset?

[Aaron Young]

If I remember correctly I saw the Silver cranks on the Clem's at Rivelo in
Portland. I didn't take pics though so can't share.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Wednesday, December 9, 2015, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Probably makes a difference whether it's a double or triple.  I bought one
> of the Grand Cru doubles this past year and I love it.  It went on to a
> Rambouillet with 130mm spacing (well…132.5mm I guess they call it) along
> with a 119mm PW BB and everything fits together just fine.  In fact, VO
> recommends a 118mm for this crankset, but recommends a 124mm for the
> triple, so if that's what you've got I'd be inclined to trust their
> advice.  With the BB pretty much centered in the BB shell both crank arms
> measure just about the exact same distance from their respective chain
> stays.  And I just checked - VO still has their blue light special for the
> double marked down to $140 from the usual $190 (unfortunately, I bought
> mine before the price went into effect).
>
> On Wednesday, December 9, 2015 at 9:50:17 AM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> I have been holding off on my desire for a new crankset ever since the
>> rumor of a new Silver crank from RBW, but am getting tired of waiting.  Has
>> anyone heard if these are immanent?
>>
>> The alternative might be the nice looking Grand Cru.  If so, the Velo
>> website suggests a 124 BB, which seems pretty big to me.  I have a PW 119
>> in my parts box and wonder if that wouldn't work on a bike with 130
>> dropouts and not overly large stays?
>>
>> Michael
>>
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Re: [RBW] Copper bottles??

[Aaron Young]

I agree. Don't expect any other health benefit than being happy with your
Electrified Copper water bottle purchase. Having said that any boost to
your mood is a boon to your health. :)

I have a copper bottle from Rivelo and its quickly become my favorite daily
drinking vessel. I actually like the slight metallic taste it gives the
water, though.

Electrically yours,

Aaron "zap" Young
The Dalles, OR

On Friday, November 13, 2015, Tim Gavin 
wrote:

> Umm, your water may taste like a penny?
>
> Seriously, though, the "benefits" listed on the Amazon product page are
> hogwash, snake oil, etc.
>
> It is quite classy looking, though!
>
> On Fri, Nov 13, 2015 at 2:27 PM, Beth H  > wrote:
>
>> And here's what it looks like over at Rivelo:
>> http://www.rivelopdx.com/shop/copper-water-bottle
>> Very pretty!
>> Beth
>>
>>
>> On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 12:23:41 PM UTC-8, Beth H wrote:
>>>
>>> Rivelo (Riv dealer in Portland) is carrying a water bottle made of
>>> copper.
>>> It looks gorgeous. Does anyone know anything about the rewards or risks
>>> of drinking water from a copper bottle?
>>> It looks an awful lot like the one pictured here:
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Travellers-Copper-Bottle-Ayurvedic-Benefits/dp/B00XTQM7FI/ref=pd_bxgy_79_img_2?ie=UTF8=1HV10VSKRVP66797WN2H
>>> Beth in pdx
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Copper bottles??

[Aaron Young]

Peter,

Thanks for sharing the bit about Indian Childhood Cirrhosis.  A little more
digging and checking the citations shows that the link between the
cirrhosis and the copper vessels isn't so clear.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9587155  Also, this is a neonatal
disease and doesn't fully apply to us adults.  Neonates are more
susceptible to many conditions that adults aren't.

All,

Here's the skinny:

Copper pipes in homes have a lifespan of about 15 or so years.  Corrosion
should be minimal during that period if the water flowing through is not
too acidic or too hot and the pipes' surface isn't damaged.

Drinking cold, neutral pH water from a copper bottle like those in question
is just as safe as drinking water from your tap.  You can check the pH of
your tap water.  If it is less than 6.5 then you should be concerned about
corroding the pipes and your water bottle and increasing your intake.

Even then the risk of blowing out your liver is pretty small.  If one is
that concerned about liver health then it would be better to avoid all
alcohol intake instead of avoiding a copper water bottle.

You are probably more likely to get too much copper from taking vitamin
supplements than from drinking cool water from these bottles.

I plan to keep drinking cold water from my solid "Electrified" copper
bottle knowing the health risk exists, but is minimal if the bottle is used
appropriately.  I'm also going to keep drinking alcohol knowing that the
health risks exist, but within reason that life is for living!

Cheers,

Aaron "zap me a beer" Young
The Dalles, OR






On Fri, Nov 13, 2015 at 3:32 PM, John A. Bennett  wrote:

> Dear Peter, and Anyone Else,
>
> If it wasn't obvious, let me be more plain here: we're not making any
> health claims about copper bottles. They're just good looking, and work
> well as a water bottle.
>
> Big Diffy has been drinking out of one for a while now, and I've never
> seen a more healthy human.
>
> Cheers,
>
> John at Rivelo in Portland, where not everyone has a beard or a tattoo
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 2:25:53 PM UTC-8, Peter Adler wrote:
>
>> Why am I not surprised that a bike retailer in Portland is carrying
>> copper water bottles for large money, and spreading claptrap about
>> unspecified health benefits? Has *Portlandia* become a documentary?
>>
>>
>> Copper was one of the first metals used by humans, after gold. Neither of
>> them were used because of any virtues as elements; they were used because
>> they were easy to work: low melting temperatures (easily reached by wood
>> fires) and soft (workable with stone tools). Plus: Shiny!
>>
>>
>> People have been making cooking vessels out of copper for as long as
>> they've been working copper, but raw copper was rapidly replaced by copper
>> alloys (bronze and brass) and by raw copper pots lined with tin. Although
>> copper is an excellent heat conductor, it is also highly reactive,
>> especially with acids. It puts nasty poisonous stuff into your food.
>>
>>
>> There are unlined copper food vessels, but they're all for very limited
>> food exposure. The primary ones are copper bowls for whipping cream or egg
>> whites; the chemical reaction between the liquids and the copper gets the
>> whipped cream/egg whites stiffer faster. Unlined copper is also used for
>> high-quality plumbing, because copper is antibacterial. But the water isn't
>> supposed to sit around in the pipes forever.
>>
>>
>> You need dietary copper. But all the copper you need is in your diet. It
>> is perfectly possible to overdose on ingested copper (especially if the
>> container has developed that decorative green verdigris), in which case the
>> symptoms are quite nasty: Cirrhosis, kidney failure, Alzheimers, low blood
>> pressure, brain necrosis. As a counter to the Ayurvedic claim (shyeah,
>> right), let's note that there's a condition called "Indian childhood
>> cirrhosis" (i.e., cirrhosis in kids who aren't old enough to have bashed
>> their livers in with alcohol); this condition has been linked to boiling
>> milk in unlined copper cookware. Call me a Western medicine bigot; but if
>> Indian moms have been cooking milk in copper pots for centuries, watching
>> their kids get sick, and not putting two and two together, then it's hard
>> to appreciate the diagnostic rigor of of Ayurvedic medical practice.
>>
>>
>> I am a big fan of copper decorative items. Wilier Triestina's copper
>> *chromovelato* is a stunning color. I've got copper bike tchotchkes of
>> all sorts, including a plated copper travel mug that makes it onto the bike
>> fairly often, and the copper version of the Crane Karen bell (actually
>> copper-plated aluminum: more expensive and cheesier-sounding than the brass
>> bell. If anyone's got the solid copper bell Jitensha used to stock and
>> they're willing to sell it, let me know). I have actively fantasized about
>> copper-anodizing a set of centerpull brakes to mount on my dark 

Re: [RBW] Portland Nov 4 to the 14th

[Aaron Young]

This might be better if moved to the masonhill list (local PDX-ers), but
until then how about Friday night Mov. 6 for beers at Velo Cult?

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Thursday, November 5, 2015, MTR <rucks...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey guys thanks for reaching out. That ride sounds great, but I have an
> Underwater Hockey (yeah it's a real thing) tournament that day. Keep me
> posted. I would love to grab a beer and ride bikes.
> Morgan
>
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[RBW] ISO: Blue WoolyWarm Buttonup sz L, Can You Help Me Replace It???

[Aaron Young]

Hey gang,

Sad story here. Last week in Portland my car window was smashed and a
dirty, low-down, scuzzy, piece of... well you get the idea, thief stole my
backpack full of clothes, and my Riv Shop sack full of spooncarving tools
(a beloved Wetterlings 111 bought at Entmoot and some special knives among
many other things).  The window repair alone was just over $400 (embedded
antenna in that one), and all told I lost more than $800 in gear, clothing,
bags, tools, etc. to the thief.  Overall, about $1250 in losses.

I'm looking to replace a size L blue WoolyWarm Buttonup sweater.  It was my
favorite sweater, and my sweater was still in like-new condition despite
wearing it all the time.  Does anyone have a size L in blue in ButtonUp
style that you just can't wear and would like to sell or trade for Riv-like
stuff?

Please contact me off list if you think you can help me out.

Thanks,

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Rivelo Visit

[Aaron Young]

Hey, thanks for the shout out. It's always fun to meet list members in
person. :)

Aaron "in the flesh" Young
The Dalles, OR

On Thursday, October 22, 2015, Lynne Fitz  wrote:

> In which Lynne and Beth meet to coffeeneur, ride over the Tillikum Bridge,
> visit Rivelo and eat cheeseburgers.
>
> http://lynnerides.blogspot.com/2015/10/coffeeneuring-coffee-with-beth.html
>
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[RBW] Re: Darning wool socks

[Aaron Young]

I like this and think it might be perfect. I will give it a try. Thanks!

Also, how cool is it that we worked around to Martha Stewart on the Riv
list?!?!  Does she ride?  She seems like the "Un-Racer" type to me.

Aaron "never took Home-Ec" Young
The Dalles, OR

On Saturday, October 17, 2015, Jenny <jenny.tam...@gmail.com> wrote:

> It's called needle felting.
>
> http://www.marthastewart.com/907973/felted-sweater-patches
>
>
> - Jenny
> Washington, DC
>
> On Wednesday, October 14, 2015 at 10:03:52 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cyclot...@gmail.com');> wrote:
>>
>> BTW, what's the wool repair technique where you use a fluff ball of
>> wool and and needle to re-fill a hole?
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 11:39 AM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > Thanks for the suggestions.  I'm going to try darning.  If I have any
>> > success I'll report back.
>> >
>> > -Aaron Young
>> > The Dalles, OR
>> >
>> > On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:45 AM, Patrick Moore <bert...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> If you tend to wear holes in good socks, as I do with my big or even
>> >> longer 2nd toes (heels last forever), and if you want workable but
>> quick
>> >> results without having to think much about it, I've long since found
>> that
>> >> cross -stitching and crudely reweaving with regular thread and needle
>> works
>> >> fine, if it looks crude. The secret is not to pull the gap closed so
>> much as
>> >> "cover it up" with thread, though you do in fact pull it together to
>> some
>> >> extent. It takes me less than 10 minutes a hole including threading
>> the
>> >> needle with my poor nearsight vision and putting the kit back into the
>> >> cupbord.
>> >>
>> >> I had several pairs of Rivendell heavy wool socks circa 2008 or so
>> that my
>> >> toes wore through in the blink of an eye, and I repeatedly "darned"
>> these as
>> >> above until I got tired of doing so and tossed them earlier this year.
>> >>
>> >> But my "method" has allowed up to 9 additional lives for certain nice
>> wool
>> >> socks.
>> >>
>> >> A previous owner of the wonderful Cycles Wolfe Biene retro wool jersey
>> I
>> >> own (front pockets!!) fixed several moth holes by carefully sewing
>> little
>> >> patches of cloth around the perimeter of the patches, inside the
>> holes. It's
>> >> neat, though said person did use white cloth, which I camouflaged with
>> a
>> >> yellow marker. It's hard to see the repairs.
>> >>
>> >> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:13 AM, Eunice Chang <sleep...@gmail.com>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> Here you go:
>> >>>
>> >>> http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer08/FEATsum08TT.html - it tells you
>> all
>> >>> the equipment you need, such as a darning egg (or mushroom) and
>> tapestry
>> >>> needle.
>> >>>
>> >>> I don't know how thick the yarn is, but you can probably use sock
>> yarn if
>> >>> you go to a yarn shop. They're wool reinforced with a bit of nylon so
>> they
>> >>> can stand up to wear and tear. You probably can weave in yarn as many
>> times
>> >>> as you want. Avoid short-lived fibers such as merino or angora or
>> cashmere-
>> >>> they'll just result in more holes.
>> >>>
>> >>> The other option is to get thin (but flexible) felt squares and to
>> sew it
>> >>> to the heel. The felt will mold to the heel and might last longer
>> than the
>> >>> sock yarn, though it may also stretch the existing area it is
>> connected to.
>> >>>
>> >>> Mostly, though, I just stuff the sock with batting and knot it and
>> give
>> >>> it to my dog.
>> >>>
>> >>> -E.
>> >>>
>> >>> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 6:47 PM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>> The heels of my wool socks I bought from Riv are getting pretty
>> thin. I
>> >>>> thought I would try to reinforce them by darning.  Has anyone tried
>> that?
>> >>>> Success or failure?  Which type of wool did you u

Re: [RBW] Flat pedal shoes

[Aaron Young]

In Portland it's almost illegal to ride in anything other than Redwing
Chukkas. ;) They are my go to shoe/boot for my on-bike adventures. Great
for off-bike and casual wear, too. Being leather, they are non-vegan if
that matters, but I'm pretty sure they are gluten-free.

Cheers,

Aaron "Not actually in Portland" Young
The Dalles, OR



On Monday, October 19, 2015, Avery Wilson  wrote:

> I've got 5-10 freeriders. I use them almost exclusively for single-track
> style mountain biking with VP vice pedals. They're stiff and stick to the
> pedals really really well. I didn't like them as much for long road rides
> because they were actually *too* stiff for me and started hurting my feet.
>
> Recap -  great for aggressive, technical mountain biking, not so much for
> rambling country rides. I just use casual shoes like Chaco sandles or Keen
> low tops for that.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Avery
>
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Re: [RBW] Darning wool socks

[Aaron Young]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I'm going to try darning.  If I have any
success I'll report back.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:45 AM, Patrick Moore <bertin...@gmail.com> wrote:

> If you tend to wear holes in good socks, as I do with my big or even
> longer 2nd toes (heels last forever), and if you want workable but quick
> results without having to think much about it, I've long since found that
> cross -stitching and crudely reweaving with regular thread and needle works
> fine, if it looks crude. The secret is not to pull the gap closed so much
> as "cover it up" with thread, though you do in fact pull it together to
> some extent. It takes me less than 10 minutes a hole including threading
> the needle with my poor nearsight vision and putting the kit back into the
> cupbord.
>
> I had several pairs of Rivendell heavy wool socks circa 2008 or so that my
> toes wore through in the blink of an eye, and I repeatedly "darned" these
> as above until I got tired of doing so and tossed them earlier this year.
>
> But my "method" has allowed up to 9 additional lives for certain nice wool
> socks.
>
> A previous owner of the wonderful Cycles Wolfe Biene retro wool jersey I
> own (front pockets!!) fixed several moth holes by carefully sewing little
> patches of cloth around the perimeter of the patches, inside the holes.
> It's neat, though said person did use white cloth, which I camouflaged with
> a yellow marker. It's hard to see the repairs.
>
> On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 8:13 AM, Eunice Chang <sleepyn...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Here you go:
>>
>> http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer08/FEATsum08TT.html - it tells you all
>> the equipment you need, such as a darning egg (or mushroom) and tapestry
>> needle.
>>
>> I don't know how thick the yarn is, but you can probably use sock yarn if
>> you go to a yarn shop. They're wool reinforced with a bit of nylon so they
>> can stand up to wear and tear. You probably can weave in yarn as many times
>> as you want. Avoid short-lived fibers such as merino or angora or cashmere-
>> they'll just result in more holes.
>>
>> The other option is to get thin (but flexible) felt squares and to sew it
>> to the heel. The felt will mold to the heel and might last longer than the
>> sock yarn, though it may also stretch the existing area it is connected to.
>>
>> Mostly, though, I just stuff the sock with batting and knot it and give
>> it to my dog.
>>
>> -E.
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 6:47 PM, Aaron Young <1ce...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The heels of my wool socks I bought from Riv are getting pretty thin. I
>>> thought I would try to reinforce them by darning.  Has anyone tried that?
>>> Success or failure?  Which type of wool did you use?
>>>
>>> Please, help me get out of this heel hole. :)
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Aaron
>>>
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> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
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> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>
> *
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* Carthusian motto
>
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[RBW] Darning wool socks

[Aaron Young]

The heels of my wool socks I bought from Riv are getting pretty thin. I
thought I would try to reinforce them by darning.  Has anyone tried that?
Success or failure?  Which type of wool did you use?

Please, help me get out of this heel hole. :)

Thanks,

Aaron

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis or Hunqapillar

[Aaron Young]

Based on your intended use (lots of dirt) I'd say Hunqa over Atlantis
because of more SO clearance. Also, I agree the Hunqa's head badge is
probably the best ever in the history of the universe. :)

This might muddy the waters and maybe you've already considered and
rejected this idea, but the 56 Atlantis would probably work for you as
well. Biggest difference is 26" wheels. I coulda chosen a 56 or 58
Atlantis. I rode both. Went with 56 because I planned to be on rough stuff
a lot and wanted slightly more SO clearance.

In the end both Hunqa or Atlantis will be fine. They are very similar so my
advice is to just follow your heart and choose the one that you will love
the most.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR



On Wednesday, September 30, 2015, Çackalak <cacka...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Maybe this is a question that gets asked a lot here, so apologies if that
> is the case.
>
> I am looking for a new frame to build up and these two are the finalists.
> On paper, they look very similar.  I have an 84cm PBH and would be sized
> 54cm and 58 cm for Hunqapillar and Atlantis, respectively.
>
> Just wondering if there is an advantage with either one, given my set up
> below:
>
> * 29x2.2 tires.  Probably Maxxis Ikon or Schwalbe Racing Ralphs.
> * Dirt drop bars.  On One Midge or ?
> * Ridden mostly on dirt roads, with some singletrack mixed in.  Paved
> roads only to get to dirt.
> * Bikepacking is a must.  I think both offer everything I need for a
> proper cargo set up.
>
> Hunq is cool, but the aesthetics of the Atlantis draws me.  I like more of
> a level TT, and the lack of SO height doesn't bother me.
>
> I think I am leaning Atlantis.  It costs a little more, but only $300, so
> not bad.  Any advice either way?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Smith with silver seatposts!

[Aaron Young]

I believe that when Riv sets up a new bike they always set it up with the
bars at the Max High mark so the cables won't be too short if a buyer
raises the bars after they receive it, so maybe that's why they are up up
up.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sat, Sep 26, 2015 at 12:44 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Saw those a couple of days ago.
>
> The Clem looks like it's set up for someone riding a bike three sizes too
> small.  Like Dave said, it may be to preserve the quill and seatpost.
>
> I'm also not sure about the crankset, specifically the chainguard.
>
> Other than that, they both look fantastic!!!   I would like to try a
> medium sized Clem (59cm   I forget the sizes).
>
>
>
> On Saturday, September 26, 2015 at 11:51:41 AM UTC-5, James Warren wrote:
>>
>>
>> Check out the new shots on Rivbike. They make me want one.
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Novels???

[Aaron Young]

Keeping this Riv-centric (books I bought from Riv) I liked *The All of
It* because
the the story is great and the writing enjoyable, but I stopped reading *Bel
Canto* because it was just so dull; just didn't like the writing style or
the characters.  Also, I really liked *The Song of Hiawatha.*

"Non-riv" books novels that I like: *All the Light We Cannot See *by
Anthony Doerr which was awarded the Pulitzer for fiction this year and more
of a classic *Light in August* by William Faulkner - the beauty of his
writing just blew me away.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR



On Wednesday, September 16, 2015, RJM <crccpadu...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm reading "Confederacy of Dunces" for the second time and really am
> enjoying it quite a bit. It's not short, but it is fun.
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 16, 2015 at 9:03:22 AM UTC-5, mike gasparino wrote:
>
>> Hi folks,
>> Anyone have any good short novels they'd like to recommend? Thanks!
>> Michael
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 56 Atlantis

[Aaron Young]

Ah, happy for you, but :(

On Wed, Sep 9, 2015 at 7:43 PM, Pondero  wrote:

> Mark, I rode it for a couple hours the morning before this post.  It was
> moving so well on the new tires that I was pondering drop bars and keeping
> it.
>
> I have a sale pending, and assuming the deal is closed, I'm really going
> to miss it.
>
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
>
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Re: [RBW] So why no Titanium Wald basket?

[Aaron Young]

Just an idea: maybe try the platrack wing attachments?  Wider support area
for the rack.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tuesday, September 8, 2015, George Schick <bhim...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Speaking of Wald, I was down at my favorite LBS a few months ago to buy a
> Wald bearing repair kit for the cheap one-piece crankset that was trashed
> on the grand-daughter's bike.  The proprietor told me how much he liked
> Wald because they made products like that which no one else in the industry
> is making any more.  And then he bemoaned the rumor he heard that they will
> soon be going out of business.  Anyone else heard that kind of news?
>
>
> On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 4:19:31 PM UTC-5, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>>
>> This being the third one I've wrecked. I'm wondering if theres a better
>> option.
>>
>> Maybe the folks here that work with Titanium can tell me.
>>
>> Why no Titanium Wald Basket? Price? Weird welds? TOO light?
>>
>> Picture proved that nothing last.
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/mannyacosta/shares/79c07y
>>
>> Manny "Lets break everything" Acosta
>>
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Re: [RBW] Rat Trap Pass tires with metal fenders

[Aaron Young]

Looks good! 

On Thursday, September 3, 2015, EGNolan  wrote:

> Beauty. Looks deceivingly comfy.
>
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[RBW] Rat trap pass tires on Atlantis

[Aaron Young]

hey gang,

The Rat Trap Pass tires arrived today. They fit with ample clearance on my
56 cm Atlantis. On Velocity Aeroheat rims they measure 47mm. Narrow
compared to the Big Bens they replaced (52mm on same rims).

Instapics:


https://instagram.com/p/7JUEnhu37E/

https://instagram.com/p/7JXIKgO3_u/

https://instagram.com/p/7JX4ovu3w7/

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Purple for a Riv?

[Aaron Young]

The sparkly purple of the old Bridgestones is my all time favorite bike
paint color and will be my first choice for when I get a repaint on any of
my Riv's. I think I will go solid (not contrasting cream) head tube
though.

-Aaron "Big Fan of Purple" Young
The Dalles, OR


On Tuesday, September 1, 2015, mikel66...@juno.com 
wrote:

> 1992 and 1994 b'stone rb-2 models had a purple in their line-up-check the
> catalogs
> 
> Shark Tank’s Huge Idea
> Warren Buffett is worried, but you can profit. Click here.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/55e5fc60971997c60214fst03duc
>
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Re: [RBW] black cork grips - to shellack or not

[Aaron Young]

I've shellacked foam before. It was fine. It will change the finish and
feel of course, but it will also increase longevity of the bar tape.

Do you have a scrap you could test the shellac on?  Or perhaps try an
inconspicuous place like where the hoods cover the bar tape a bit?

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Thursday, August 27, 2015, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 you might want to search shellac on the forum, but shellac is hard,
 separates and flakes from a flexible substrate.
 I have used spar varnish on two sets of cork grips, and they came out
 great.  But I don't think I'd do anything to foam grips.

 On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 4:50:58 PM UTC-5, drew wrote:

 purchased some black cork grips, but im thinking they are more likely
 black foam with flecks of cork. while i was not excited about the lack of
 actual cork, i do like the way they look.   from the perspective of
 enhancing their lifespan and diminishing their upkeep...Shellack them? do
 not shellack them? do something else to them? do nothing?

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Re: [RBW] How was your PBP?

[Aaron Young]

Haha. I misread the subject line a few times as How was your PBH?  My
thought was Well, sir that is none of your business! :)

For clarification, I didn't ride PBP (congrats to those who did - what an
experience and accomplishment!), and my PBH is fine, thank you very much.

Aaron Master Misreader Young
The Dalles, OR

On Wednesday, August 26, 2015, George Schick bhim...@gmail.com wrote:

 Eric (Norris) - do you have any RUSA permanents in your neck of the
 woods that you ride to prepare for PBP?  I found out about one here in the
 Chicago area called the Fox Valley Permanent from Eric (Peterson) recently.


 On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 12:18:27 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:

 Finished in 79:58, but on my Alex Singer, not a Riv :-(. The Singer
 received a lot of looks and comments, both from the French and from the
 Japanese (Singer has a huge following in Japan).

 The weather was, indeed, better than 2007 (it could hardly be worse), but
 I was unlucky enough to get rained on several times,including the last day,
 when I left on the last 140Km 5:30 a.m. in a drizzle that turned into a
 rain later in the day.

 I took a ton of video, which I will be piecing together into a ride
 report soon.

 --Eric N
 campyo...@me.com
 www.CampyOnly.com
 Campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 @Campyonlyguy


 On Aug 26, 2015, at 7:32 AM, Eric Peterson peterso...@gmail.com wrote:

 Completed in 88+ hours on my Roadeo, went out in last wave of 90 hour
 group.
 Bike was superb over this distance.
 Great weather as compared to 2007 when I had a similar finish.
 No one noticed my bike but some went gaga over my friend's green
 Ramboulliet, so she said.
 Great weather made for scenic ride, lots of locals out supporting riders,
 many riders sleeping by side of road.
 Divided ride into three segments with stops at Loudeac out and back,
 about 13,000 ft of climbing on each segment. Hills were not steep but they
 were relentless! 34x27
 Felt fine at end, sleep deprivation on day three was biggest issue for me.
 Eric Peterson
 Naperville, IL
 T174

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Re: [RBW] Small Items to add to a RBW Order.

[Aaron Young]

Bandana(s). I've never had too many bandanas.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Monday, August 24, 2015, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Pine tar soap.

 On Monday, August 24, 2015 at 11:10:52 AM UTC-7, Alan Pickett wrote:

 I almost always going to John's Irish strap,  and often where one is a
 belt so that it is always handy. There's also the wooden Rivendell yo-yo
 which is sort of hard to pass up - I got one with my last order. I also got
 one of the NItto factory hats which are kind of a kick in the pants. The
 little magnets are cool too… I also often get the little brass housing fair
 are y which are kind of a kick in the pants. The little magnets are cool
 too… I also often get the little brass housing ferrules and The silver
 shifter black plastic washer that occasionally break ends need replacing.

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[RBW] Re: Something's not right here...

[Aaron Young]

Nah, everything's fine now after adding an extra link to the chain.  I
don't ride in big-big or small-small combos, so I'm not concerned about
this happening again.

I shared this mostly to laugh at myself a bit and as a reminder to check
chain length after swapping out drive train parts.

Cheers!
Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Saturday, July 25, 2015, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Have you eyeballed your rear alignment?  I did something similar on an old
 MTB and bent the rear-end so much that I had to trash the bike.  The frame
 builder I took it to said the entire rear was displaced to the side by 2.5
 or something like that and the chainstays themselves were bent beyond
 repair.



 On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 4:11:07 PM UTC-5, A. L Young wrote:

 On the Atlantis I was switching from downtube to bar end shifters (front
 derailer only) and did this during a test ride.

 http://flic.kr/p/w9Ntbb

 I swapped the cassette a while back. New one has a higher-toothed low
 gear. I guess I forgot to resize the chain length.  After the addition of a
 link I can happily if awkwardly ride again in the big-big combo.  :)

 Aaron Awkward and Happy Young
 The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Dirt Drop stem with Atlantis?

[Aaron Young]

I've been trying to find the right bar/stem combo since I bought a 56
Atlantis months ago.  Recently I tried an 8cm dirt drop plus Grand Bois
Randonneur bars and it seems just right for me. As others have said, you
shouldn't have any qualms about putting a dirt drop on an Atlantis (or any
bike for that matter).  It's a great stem.

Here's a pic. No bar tape yet, but that's because I'm afraid of commitment.

https://flic.kr/p/uUrjow

The angle of the photo makes the bars look higher than they are. They are
slightly above or even with saddle height and super comfortable (on short
test rides so far - excited to try it on an extended ride soon!).

Good luck!

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR



On Wednesday, July 22, 2015, 'hangtownmatt' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Pros -  If you run the bars 2 or more inches above seat height, I think
 the Dirt Drops help disguise the extra long quill since it pivots
 approximately midway.  Seems to break things up ... to my eye anyway.   Put
 some stem shifters and/or a brass bell on the quill and that tall neck will
 virtually disappear.  Personally, I think the Dirt Drop looks far superior
 to a super tall Tallux with a short reach.  Another pro is the Dirt Drop is
 stronger and less expensive than the Tallux.

 Keep in mind mountain handlebars and road bars have different dimensions.
 One requires 25.4 stem and the other 26.0.  Be sure to get the larger so
 that rather than having to purchase another stem to switch between the two,
 you can simply purchase a $5 shim.


 On Wednesday, July 22, 2015 at 1:38:28 PM UTC-7, Eric wrote:

 Anyone have thoughts about using a Dirt Drop stem paired with some Noodle
 handlebars on an Atlantis?

 Pros? Cons?

 Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Measuring sit bones: hilarity ensues

[Aaron Young]

Daniel D.,

Yes, that is maybe the simplest way to measure your sit bones (ischial
tuberosities, to be technical).  I've measured mine before.  I used
cardboard like Dave mentioned.  I found some of the thicker cardboard, but
i had to really work to make obvious depressions.  Maybe I have a little
too much padding covering my tuberosities??? :)

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sun, Jul 12, 2015 at 12:41 PM, Dave davele...@gmail.com wrote:

 cardboard works too.  Put cardboard on a bench, sit on bench while putting
 your feet up on some kind of elevated surface and leaning slightly forward


 On Sunday, July 12, 2015 at 12:11:48 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:

 Try your LBS. some of them have a thermopedic memory foam  type bench you
 can sit on that leaves sit bone indents in the material for you to measure.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Didn't see that coming... Segmented Cast Fork Crown on BLUG

[Aaron Young]

I'm with Andrew.  I looked at the fork crown for a few minutes and that is
the thing that jumped out to my eyes the most.  However, once the fork
blades are in place wouldn't that significantly reinforce that area???

Aaron Not a bicycle builder/designer/engineer by any means Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sun, Jul 12, 2015 at 4:32 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:

 I will say that the Hunqs sure are pretty.
 Is it intended as a tourer or Mountainbike?

 Both and then some.  When Riv launched the Bombadil then later the Hunq, I
 recall some GP articles about the late '80s, earl '90s MTBs that have since
 been drafted into all sorts of uses.  He wanted to update that theme with a
 flair that is all Riv.

 With the possible exception of a the Roadeo, I do not think Riv ever made
 something for a specific purpose.

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[RBW] Clementine Believer

[Aaron Young]

I saw only one bottle mount on the Clementine. The Blug shows a bottle
behind the seat tube on that black Clemmy.  It appears strapped on though.
I think the absence of a bottle holder somewhere on the seat tube is
disappointing.
Maybe it didn't work well on prototypes??

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Wednesday, July 8, 2015, Garth garth...@gmail.com
javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','garth...@gmail.com'); wrote:


Am I missing something here  water bottle mounts ?  On both the
 Chev and the Clems , I see only one .  I don't know about anyone else 
 but I rarely ride with 1 large bottle , and those are 20 miles .  Does
 this mean you have to mcgyver water bottle mounts with aftermarkets I
 assume ?   With all that real estate behind the ST it seems there could be
 at least 1 if not 2 braze-ons mounted at like 45 degree angles backwards .

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[RBW] Re: Clementine Believer

[Aaron Young]

Other impressions that have come to mind:

- I liked the cheap-o retr-o plastic grips, but I think without gloves my
hands would get sticky sweaty on long rides with them.

- I can't comment on the seat. The binder bolt broke while adjusting it for
the test ride which ended up being all-standing and  shorter (duration, not
height; although at 5'8...) than I would have liked. But the saddle looked
nice. Attached to the seat post. Lying on the ground. :/

- the IG-turned-derailer shifters worked great. Indexed, but frictiony.
Shifted just fine. No worries.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR


On Tuesday, July 7, 2015, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

 Jim:

 Let us know if you find a source for that seat.

 dougP

 On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 at 8:11:50 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:


 Thanks, Aaron.

 One of the pictures,


 https://www.flickr.com/photos/sk8_or_die/19449664091/in/album-72157655573779841/

 shows the bike's seat lying on the ground. I was at Rivendell WC
 yesterday, and I got to ride the Clementine with that seat attached. It's
 really excellent. The brand is Velo; the look is plain and good, and the
 handle it has off the back is nice for two reasons: as a handle as intended
 or as a place for saddlebag attaching. It's wide to optimize the Bosco bar
 setup, but you don't have to spring (!) for the price of a B67. I liked how
 the inexpensive Velo seat felt while riding on it. I kind of want to get
 one separately.

 -Jim W.
 Los Angeles, CA (temporarily in Berkeley)


 On Jul 7, 2015, at 6:57 AM, Aaron Young wrote:

 Hey Gang,

 I stopped by Rivelo in Portland for the first time recently.  What a
 great shop with all the bike and camping gear, hatchets, and a entire wall
 of Bob Dylan albums for sale.

 It took a minute before I noticed but sitting right next to an orange
 Cheviot was an orange Clementine.  Or maybe it's a clementine Clementine???

 Shop owner John (nice to meet you!) let me ride the Clementine for a
 bit.  It was set up with Bosco bars and fat knobby tires.  It was great!
 The Hunqa fork goes a long way to making this bike look super tough.

 I admit that based only on internet pics and reading about the
 Clem/Clementine I was not very impressed.  But it was a whole different
 story to see it in person and ride it, and now I'm a believer. Even the
 Clementine with the swooping tubes had a rough/tough/beefy look to it.  Not
 girly at all (hey, I like girly).  I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the
 Clementine to anyone especially for the price.  Heck, now I'm itching to
 add one to my band of bicycles.  I'm pretty sure I would even go with a
 Clementine over the Clem because of the drop tube.

 Here's a few pics from my short shop visit:

 https://www.flickr.com/gp/sk8_or_die/XV8E26

 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

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 jimcw...@earthlink.net

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clementine Believer

[Aaron Young]

Yes, I think the Hunqa-fork coupled with those crazy chainstays makes the
bike.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 4:57 PM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net
wrote:


 I didn't say it as directly, but I agree with you about the trail riding,
 Aaron. Perfect use for sure. (And strangely enough, another thing that
 makes it far superior to so many cheap mixtes is that it has a great fork
 as opposed to their lousy springy forks.)




 On Jul 7, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Aaron Young wrote:

 I agree with Drew - the Clementine I rode seemed a lot beefier than even
 the Cheviot.  I wouldn't be afraid to tour a bit on the Cheviot that I
 bought for my wife.  In fact, recently we loaded it up with rear panniers
 (lightly loaded, to be fair), medium saddle bag, and the Wald basket up
 front and went for a short overnight tour.  If you balance the load right,
 then for road touring it's no problem.  Off road touring, on the other
 hand, would require a very different bike.

 When I rode the Clementine I wanted to take it on some nice rolling single
 track.  That seemed to me like it would be a perfect use for that bike.
 Maybe it was the big knobbly tires. :)

 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

 On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 4:27 PM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net
 wrote:


 The Riv spectrum certainly includes bikes not intended for centuries or
 full touring. So I'd guess that trading off those things to make the
 Clementine practical and fun were part of the design. I rode it yesterday;
 it rides really nice. I could easily see it for afternoon fun rides that
 make you sweat, with those monster tire allowances taking your on trails to
 help provide that sweat. For me, that would be the fun part. In addition, I
 would not consider it a century bike or a loaded touring bike.

 Another way of looking at it: consider the world of practical, basic
 mixtes. Now consider those bikes benefiting from Riv improvements: long
 chainstays, serious tire clearance, awesome rack braze-ons and fender
 mounts and well-thought-out kickstand plate and pump peg*. That's what the
 Clementine seems like to me.

 (*I think the Clementine has a pump peg; not 100% sure.)

 -Jim W.
 Los Angeles usually, Berkeley temporarily


 On Jul 7, 2015, at 2:34 PM, Wayne Naha wrote:

  I really like the black Clemintine, the one pictured on the Blug is
 luscious.  But I admit, I am scared of the swoop down top tube.  It just
 seems so mechanically not well thought out.  A mixte has a much better
 design for dealing with frame stresses, that seems like a reasonable
 frame.  But this Clemintine, could it do a loaded tour?  Could one do a
 century on such a bike?  It does seem great for around town, short trips
 and such.  But I can't see doing trails on it.  Wouldn't it be too flexy?
 I was trying to convince my wife to get one when I realized that I wanted
 one.  But the frame design worries at me.
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clementine Believer

[Aaron Young]

I agree with Drew - the Clementine I rode seemed a lot beefier than even
the Cheviot.  I wouldn't be afraid to tour a bit on the Cheviot that I
bought for my wife.  In fact, recently we loaded it up with rear panniers
(lightly loaded, to be fair), medium saddle bag, and the Wald basket up
front and went for a short overnight tour.  If you balance the load right,
then for road touring it's no problem.  Off road touring, on the other
hand, would require a very different bike.

When I rode the Clementine I wanted to take it on some nice rolling single
track.  That seemed to me like it would be a perfect use for that bike.
Maybe it was the big knobbly tires. :)

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tue, Jul 7, 2015 at 4:27 PM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net
wrote:


 The Riv spectrum certainly includes bikes not intended for centuries or
 full touring. So I'd guess that trading off those things to make the
 Clementine practical and fun were part of the design. I rode it yesterday;
 it rides really nice. I could easily see it for afternoon fun rides that
 make you sweat, with those monster tire allowances taking your on trails to
 help provide that sweat. For me, that would be the fun part. In addition, I
 would not consider it a century bike or a loaded touring bike.

 Another way of looking at it: consider the world of practical, basic
 mixtes. Now consider those bikes benefiting from Riv improvements: long
 chainstays, serious tire clearance, awesome rack braze-ons and fender
 mounts and well-thought-out kickstand plate and pump peg*. That's what the
 Clementine seems like to me.

 (*I think the Clementine has a pump peg; not 100% sure.)

 -Jim W.
 Los Angeles usually, Berkeley temporarily


 On Jul 7, 2015, at 2:34 PM, Wayne Naha wrote:

  I really like the black Clemintine, the one pictured on the Blug is
 luscious.  But I admit, I am scared of the swoop down top tube.  It just
 seems so mechanically not well thought out.  A mixte has a much better
 design for dealing with frame stresses, that seems like a reasonable
 frame.  But this Clemintine, could it do a loaded tour?  Could one do a
 century on such a bike?  It does seem great for around town, short trips
 and such.  But I can't see doing trails on it.  Wouldn't it be too flexy?
 I was trying to convince my wife to get one when I realized that I wanted
 one.  But the frame design worries at me.
 

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[RBW] Clementine Believer

[Aaron Young]

Hey Gang,

I stopped by Rivelo in Portland for the first time recently.  What a great
shop with all the bike and camping gear, hatchets, and a entire wall of Bob
Dylan albums for sale.

It took a minute before I noticed but sitting right next to an orange
Cheviot was an orange Clementine.  Or maybe it's a clementine Clementine???

Shop owner John (nice to meet you!) let me ride the Clementine for a bit.
It was set up with Bosco bars and fat knobby tires.  It was great!  The
Hunqa fork goes a long way to making this bike look super tough.

I admit that based only on internet pics and reading about the
Clem/Clementine I was not very impressed.  But it was a whole different
story to see it in person and ride it, and now I'm a believer. Even the
Clementine with the swooping tubes had a rough/tough/beefy look to it.  Not
girly at all (hey, I like girly).  I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the
Clementine to anyone especially for the price.  Heck, now I'm itching to
add one to my band of bicycles.  I'm pretty sure I would even go with a
Clementine over the Clem because of the drop tube.

Here's a few pics from my short shop visit:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/sk8_or_die/XV8E26

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

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[RBW] Re: Clementine Believer

[Aaron Young]

Other impressions that have come to mind:

- I liked the cheap-o retr-o plastic grips, but I think without gloves my
hands would get sticky sweaty on long rides with them.

- I can't comment on the seat. The binder bolt broke while adjusting it for
the test ride which ended up being all-standing and  shorter (duration, not
height; although at 5'8...) than I would have liked. But the saddle looked
nice. Attached to the seat post. Lying on the ground. :/

- the IG-turned-derailer shifters worked great. Indexed, but frictiony.
Shifted just fine. No worries.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR


On Tuesday, July 7, 2015, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

 Jim:

 Let us know if you find a source for that seat.

 dougP

 On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 at 8:11:50 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:


 Thanks, Aaron.

 One of the pictures,


 https://www.flickr.com/photos/sk8_or_die/19449664091/in/album-72157655573779841/

 shows the bike's seat lying on the ground. I was at Rivendell WC
 yesterday, and I got to ride the Clementine with that seat attached. It's
 really excellent. The brand is Velo; the look is plain and good, and the
 handle it has off the back is nice for two reasons: as a handle as intended
 or as a place for saddlebag attaching. It's wide to optimize the Bosco bar
 setup, but you don't have to spring (!) for the price of a B67. I liked how
 the inexpensive Velo seat felt while riding on it. I kind of want to get
 one separately.

 -Jim W.
 Los Angeles, CA (temporarily in Berkeley)


 On Jul 7, 2015, at 6:57 AM, Aaron Young wrote:

 Hey Gang,

 I stopped by Rivelo in Portland for the first time recently.  What a
 great shop with all the bike and camping gear, hatchets, and a entire wall
 of Bob Dylan albums for sale.

 It took a minute before I noticed but sitting right next to an orange
 Cheviot was an orange Clementine.  Or maybe it's a clementine Clementine???

 Shop owner John (nice to meet you!) let me ride the Clementine for a
 bit.  It was set up with Bosco bars and fat knobby tires.  It was great!
 The Hunqa fork goes a long way to making this bike look super tough.

 I admit that based only on internet pics and reading about the
 Clem/Clementine I was not very impressed.  But it was a whole different
 story to see it in person and ride it, and now I'm a believer. Even the
 Clementine with the swooping tubes had a rough/tough/beefy look to it.  Not
 girly at all (hey, I like girly).  I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the
 Clementine to anyone especially for the price.  Heck, now I'm itching to
 add one to my band of bicycles.  I'm pretty sure I would even go with a
 Clementine over the Clem because of the drop tube.

 Here's a few pics from my short shop visit:

 https://www.flickr.com/gp/sk8_or_die/XV8E26

 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

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 jimcw...@earthlink.net

 - 700x33






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Re: [RBW] Re: My Fargo just lost 2 lb! Woolywarm!

[Aaron Young]

Patrick,

I think the saying is The Bees' Knees' Fleas, if you please. :)  Just don't
think about it too much, or it progressively makes less and less sense.

I've never tried a wool jersey like that, but often ride in a thin merino
ss shirt I got at Riv.  Assuming it's similar, I've found it very versatile
as a single layer in high heat to moderately cool temps.

Here's to riding in wool or otherwise!

-Aaron Not riding today because it's projected to be 108 degrees out
today Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sat, Jun 27, 2015 at 10:51 AM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I know, I lived variously in Washington DC, Atlanta, GA, Karachi Pakistan
 (awful hellhole: no rain; regular dust storms; WDC humidity; mould on all
 the buildings. No wonder the country is a mess); and immediately pre
 monsoon New Delhi. I agree, you cannot be comfortable without A/C no matter
 what you wear, unless you are encased in ice.

 But relative to our climate here in high desert ABQ, NM, wool is the bee's
 (bees'?) knees.

 On Sat, Jun 27, 2015 at 6:25 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 Sorry Patrick . . . . but this makes me giggle  !

 I see your high humidity for Albuquerque is where your dewpoints are
 upper 40's to low 50's.   That's quite comfortable actually .  When
 dewpoints get into the 60's you will really start to feel  it.  I'd be
 curious to know if anyone here wears wool when the dewpoints are 70 and
 above .  If anyone says it's comfortable they're deluded , because it
 really doesn't matter what you wear at that point because everything wets
 out and stays wet !  Shirtless actually feels about the best at that point
 .  . . lol .

 Me . . . I think all clothing is overrated , as if there is some garment
 is better than skin itself .  Kinda comes down to vanity again .  . ..
 .mine is somehow better than yours . . . this is somehow better than that
 .  . . . . this blah blah is somehow blah blah than that blah blah .
 Ahaahahahahaahahahahahaha !   How silly is man and thinking !





 On Friday, June 26, 2015 at 8:51:40 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 *when I left; humidity high in the upper 20s/low 30s, too. *

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Re: [RBW] The Death of the Oregon Outback.

[Aaron Young]

Good to hear about the clean up crew.  This is what jumped to my mind upon
reading that:

http://youtu.be/TGVG4sKLkLs

If only it were this easy to clean up our messes.

Riv content: I'm pretty sure the tire on that moss-covered, three-handled,
family gredanza is a Fatty Rumpkin.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Thursday, June 18, 2015, Hugh Smitham hughsmit...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks Brian for a reality check. Yes it will continue in some form.

 Update: On a reliable source I am told there is a small contingent
 traveling back down to do a clean up sweep and mend fences. The good
 outweighing the bad.

 Tail Winds,


 ~Hugh

 “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
 moving.” ― Albert Einstein

 http://velocipedemusings.blogspot.com/



 On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 11:08 PM, stonehog stone...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','stone...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 I don't think this was a majority issue - there will always be outlaws in
 the west, but I agree that most everyone I came across was respectful and
 thankful for any shelter.  The ride isn't anywhere near ruined, it is an
 unorganized gathering at best. The folks that ruined camping in a few spots
 will not be allowed to kill the ride for the rest of us.

 We were all on our own, make no mistake. And you can and should do rides
 like this at any time- you don't need the organizer's permission any more
 than you need John Wesley Powell's permission to raft the Colorado.  Treat
 all outdoors as if you are guests/owners (you are), and try to leave it in
 better shape than you find it, but the worst thing is if folks abandon
 these rides due to a few jerks. I will be back. Will also do other rides.
 There will be rebirth (probably by next year). This is temporary, fixable
 tragedy.

 Brian Hanson
 Seattle, WA

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Re: [RBW] The Death of the Oregon Outback.

[Aaron Young]

What was that product?  All I saw was a shirt. :)

This Oregon Outback setback really is embarrassing and tragic.  But at
least it's a reality check for all of us whether biking, hiking, etc...

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 12:35 PM, David Banzer daban...@gmail.com wrote:

 They could've used some of this: https://youtu.be/cpads8s5mik
 David
 Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front + 56 cm Atlantis?

[Aaron Young]

Bill,

Yez, I am talking about the F20, but I didn't know that's what it was
called till Tom filled me in.

The cost issue isn't a factor now (Alex's), but I appreciate your
suggestion of colluding to get everyone racked up happily. :)

I'm eyeing the Ostrich panniers too.   I don't think I can talk myself into
the Berthouds. I like the panniers that Swift Industries sells, but they
are probably shaped wrong.

-Aaron
The Dalles

On Tuesday, June 16, 2015, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I *think* you are talking about the F20.  Are you talking about the F20?
 There are lots of Nitto racks that say Campee on them.  I counted 8
 different models at one online seller.

 When you say for me there's a significant cost difference, what exactly
 do you mean?  Do you have a line on a used 27F that you can buy cheap, and
 you are comparing that with paying retail for the F20?  If so, let me buy
 the 27F for my 700c bike and get the F20 from Alex's in Japan.  :-)

 I have the F20 installed on my 26 wheel bike and I think it's a
 tremendous rack.  Pannier choices are limited, but I made my own prototypes
 and I will probably buy a set of Ostrich panniers from Alex's.

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito CA

 On Monday, June 15, 2015 at 9:49:57 AM UTC-7, A. L Young wrote:

 Hey gang,

 This is probably a bit of an obscure question.  I'm considering a Nitto
 Campee Front rack for my 56cm Atlantis with 26 wheels.  Apparently the
 Nitto Campee Front comes in two sizes for 26 or 700c wheeled bikes.  For
 me there is significant cost difference between the two models.  So this is
 a matter or dollars/cents.

 Here's the question: has anyone successfully installed a 700c version of
 the Nitto Campee Front on a 56cm Atlantis??  Experiences?

 Thanks,

 Aaron Dollars and Cents Young
 The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front + 56 cm Atlantis?

[Aaron Young]

Minh,

Thanks, I'll contact you off list.

-Aaron

On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:

 Aaron,

 I have a set of GB372 that are not in rotation at the moment, while i
 can't let them go at the price of the Ostrich bags (which is admittedly a
 good deal), drop me a note with how much you can talk yourself into and
 maybe we can work out a deal.

 As an aside, i've never actually used these on the front, not sure why,
 but maybe the combination of nitto rear rack (with the long rails) and my
 foot size, i've been able to use this on the rear with no heel rub despite
 the warnings from GB.

 On Tuesday, June 16, 2015 at 4:48:14 PM UTC-4, A. L Young wrote:

 Bill,

 Yez, I am talking about the F20, but I didn't know that's what it was
 called till Tom filled me in.

 The cost issue isn't a factor now (Alex's), but I appreciate your
 suggestion of colluding to get everyone racked up happily. :)

 I'm eyeing the Ostrich panniers too.   I don't think I can talk myself
 into the Berthouds. I like the panniers that Swift Industries sells, but
 they are probably shaped wrong.

 -Aaron
 The Dalles

 On Tuesday, June 16, 2015, Bill Lindsay tape...@gmail.com wrote:

 I *think* you are talking about the F20.  Are you talking about the
 F20?  There are lots of Nitto racks that say Campee on them.  I counted 8
 different models at one online seller.

 When you say for me there's a significant cost difference, what
 exactly do you mean?  Do you have a line on a used 27F that you can buy
 cheap, and you are comparing that with paying retail for the F20?  If so,
 let me buy the 27F for my 700c bike and get the F20 from Alex's in Japan.
  :-)

 I have the F20 installed on my 26 wheel bike and I think it's a
 tremendous rack.  Pannier choices are limited, but I made my own prototypes
 and I will probably buy a set of Ostrich panniers from Alex's.

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito CA

 On Monday, June 15, 2015 at 9:49:57 AM UTC-7, A. L Young wrote:

 Hey gang,

 This is probably a bit of an obscure question.  I'm considering a Nitto
 Campee Front rack for my 56cm Atlantis with 26 wheels.  Apparently the
 Nitto Campee Front comes in two sizes for 26 or 700c wheeled bikes.  For
 me there is significant cost difference between the two models.  So this is
 a matter or dollars/cents.

 Here's the question: has anyone successfully installed a 700c version
 of the Nitto Campee Front on a 56cm Atlantis??  Experiences?

 Thanks,

 Aaron Dollars and Cents Young
 The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front + 56 cm Atlantis?

[Aaron Young]

Tim,

That's some more good info.  Suddenly I feel like I need to do some more
research before buying a rack for the front.  Maybe I'll decide which
panniers first and then get a rack that suits/supports them well.

Thanks,
Aaron

On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 10:58 AM, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com
wrote:

 There are three versions, actually.

 27F is the 700c model.  It has a small platform, and the mounting struts
 at the bottom are angled.  27R is the matching rear.
 F20 is the 26/Mt. Campee model.  It has a large platform (at least 30%
 larger than the classic), and the mounting struts at the bottom are
 angled.  The R20 is the matching rear partner, but it has no lowriders.
 It's closer in design to the Riv 32R.
 ??? is the 650b model, sometimes listed as a 26 model.  It has a small
 platform and the mounting struts at the bottom are straight.  There is a
 matching rear, also called 650b.

 The angled struts may reach to the rear eyelet on a fork, but the straight
 struts are meant for front eyelets only.

 I mounted the 650b model with straight struts on my girlfriend's San
 Marcos, and I had success in using the Tubus p-clamps (2-bolt) for the
 lower mount, and the Tubus fork clamps for the upper mount.

 The 700c 27F may ride quite high above the tire on a 700c Atlantis.  You
 may be able to lower it by mounting it to the rear eyelets.  (in that case,
 you may want to use spacers so the rack legs don't hit the fork ends)

 But it will fit..

 Be aware that the lowrider frames are shorter and wider than most modern
 panniers.  The top rail of the lowrider frame is lower than the top rail on
 the Blackburn/Tubus style lowrider racks, so a modern pannier may hang low
 off the bottom of the lowrider frame.  (On my gf's SM, I mounted
 small/medium Mountainsmith panniers, and the bottoms dangle a couple inches
 past the lowrider frame).

 I recently picked up a F20 Mt. Campee off the list, and am tempted to buy
 the Ostrich DLX panniers that are designed for these racks.

 Cheers,
 Tim

 On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 12:13 PM, Philip Kim philipw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Aaron, I believe the 700c will be too far out and too high to provide
 stability.

 I've used the Velo Orange Campeur front rack. It is long enough that you
 can mount it to your lower fork eyelet for 26 or so, or upper fork dropout
 eyelet for 700 wheels. You can also cut the tange to fit. The only
 different is that you can't remove the pannier supports, but it is lighter
 than the Nito Campee, and sits closer to the handlebars and wheel than the
 Campee. It's cheaper as well. Also comes with removeable decaleur for rando
 bags. I think it's a bit more versatile imo.


 On Monday, June 15, 2015 at 12:49:57 PM UTC-4, A. L Young wrote:

 Hey gang,

 This is probably a bit of an obscure question.  I'm considering a Nitto
 Campee Front rack for my 56cm Atlantis with 26 wheels.  Apparently the
 Nitto Campee Front comes in two sizes for 26 or 700c wheeled bikes.  For
 me there is significant cost difference between the two models.  So this is
 a matter or dollars/cents.

 Here's the question: has anyone successfully installed a 700c version of
 the Nitto Campee Front on a 56cm Atlantis??  Experiences?

 Thanks,

 Aaron Dollars and Cents Young
 The Dalles, OR

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[RBW] Nitto Campee Front + 56 cm Atlantis?

[Aaron Young]

Hey gang,

This is probably a bit of an obscure question.  I'm considering a Nitto
Campee Front rack for my 56cm Atlantis with 26 wheels.  Apparently the
Nitto Campee Front comes in two sizes for 26 or 700c wheeled bikes.  For
me there is significant cost difference between the two models.  So this is
a matter or dollars/cents.

Here's the question: has anyone successfully installed a 700c version of
the Nitto Campee Front on a 56cm Atlantis??  Experiences?

Thanks,

Aaron Dollars and Cents Young
The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front + 56 cm Atlantis?

[Aaron Young]

Good info Philp - Thank you.

Any other experiences?

Thanks,

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 10:13 AM, Philip Kim philipw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Aaron, I believe the 700c will be too far out and too high to provide
 stability.

 I've used the Velo Orange Campeur front rack. It is long enough that you
 can mount it to your lower fork eyelet for 26 or so, or upper fork dropout
 eyelet for 700 wheels. You can also cut the tange to fit. The only
 different is that you can't remove the pannier supports, but it is lighter
 than the Nito Campee, and sits closer to the handlebars and wheel than the
 Campee. It's cheaper as well. Also comes with removeable decaleur for rando
 bags. I think it's a bit more versatile imo.


 On Monday, June 15, 2015 at 12:49:57 PM UTC-4, A. L Young wrote:

 Hey gang,

 This is probably a bit of an obscure question.  I'm considering a Nitto
 Campee Front rack for my 56cm Atlantis with 26 wheels.  Apparently the
 Nitto Campee Front comes in two sizes for 26 or 700c wheeled bikes.  For
 me there is significant cost difference between the two models.  So this is
 a matter or dollars/cents.

 Here's the question: has anyone successfully installed a 700c version of
 the Nitto Campee Front on a 56cm Atlantis??  Experiences?

 Thanks,

 Aaron Dollars and Cents Young
 The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joy of Wrenching

[Aaron Young]

Thanks for this, Chris.  A good reminder.  :)

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Fri, Jun 12, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Funny. I am an impatient perfectionist, and this has obvious psychological
 disadvantages. I want my bikes to be perfect; yet I hate the hassle of that
 sort of plodding methodicalness that is an essential requirement of
 technical perfection. Fixed gear setups help, but my satisfaction in
 mechanical perfection is always tainted by irritation at the innumerable
 obstacles posed by materiality.

 Hum.

 Today, work being slack, I undertook the rehabilitation of my next door
 neighbor's ancient and replaced gas grill (I live a spit from our bosque,
 and a charcoal grill, I fear, would lead to the conflagration of the
 century).

 Ashes and cinders; grease and oil; hardening and caking. This $100 gas
 grill had all of these in spades, and even though I decided against using
 caustic solvents, levying the power of scrapers, bushes, and garden trowel,
 I ended up with, literally, 2 gallons of carbonated, ex-organic fatty
 substances removed from the works. I fashioned a new flame disperser* from
 2 sections of tin can**; replaced the side shelving with miscellaneous
 lumber; confected a new hatch handle; bought a canister of propane; and lo
 and behold, i am now ready to grill like any suburban peritus.

 Point being, that actually usable results that result from one's own
 material and imaginative intervention are, not only very pleasing, but in
 some way, of the very essence of pleasure. Aside: Matthew Crawford's *Shop
 Class as Soul Craft* is a very worthwhile meditation on the things raised
 by this thread. Crawford is a good, pre-Christian Aristotelian, btw.

 On Fri, Jun 12, 2015 at 2:20 PM, Mark Reimer marknrei...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 So true. It seems I'm constantly changing something on my bikes. Fenders
 on, fenders off. Three pairs of tires in a month. I wonder how the bike
 would handle if I swapped out X/Y/Z...

 I do the same thing with old motorcycles. Seems I'm constantly
 elbows-deep into them. Last night in the shop, my Dad walks in and asks
 what I'd estimate the ratio is of the time I spend wrenching on them to
 riding. Clearly he didn't understand :)



 On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 1:27:17 PM UTC-5, hsmitham wrote:

 Chris,

 Glad you found some time to work on your Hilsen, I bet you can't wait to
 start building your freshly painted travel Hilsen! I can't wait to see that
 build. Just a winning color my friend!!

 Currently, I'm redoing both cockpits on my Hilsen  Atlantis, just
 finished wrapping the Albastache bars on the Hilsen after installing a 8cm
 Dirt Drop Stem. I rode it for about two weeks to make sure this was the
 right decision. Today I'll be cleaning the Drive train. The Atlantis got a
 new 10cm Tallux stem for the win! Today it gets new bar end shifters and a
 rear dynamo light. I'm hoping that these changes will last a really long
 time and I can just focus on lots of riding. Other smaller projects on the
 distant horizon to tinker/wrench on.

 Oh and I'm installing a Mark's rack on the Wife's Betty.

 When my wife looks in on me tinkering on the bikes in the garage she
 smiles and declares your pretty content  and she's right! Working on
 bikes I get my Zen on.

 Doug, I was wondering what all that noise was coming from yer Atlantis?
 Silent or smooth drive train is the bee's knees! 15K on your cassette well
 done Sir.

 Tail Winds,

 ~Hugh

 On Friday, June 12, 2015 at 8:34:49 AM UTC-7, Chris Chen wrote:

 Life has been crazy for a while, and I haven't had the chance to work
 on the bikes in a few months. Just remembering to lube the chain requires
 forethought. Tonight I finally started fixing my Hilsen with new brakes,
 saddle, and cockpit. It felt so good.

 Here's hoping you find time in your life for a little soul maintenance

 cc

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 --
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

 *
 *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
 circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
 individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

 *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

 *The Love

Re: [RBW] ISO NITTO lugged seatpost.

[Aaron Young]

Wow. For that price I might overlook the VO one myself.  :)  thanks for the
link.

-Aaron Young

On Thursday, June 4, 2015, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 hi Hugh,
 the lugged seatpost is S84 - the Japan price at current exchange is about
 $85 plus $15 for 4-day express mail.

 http://www.alexscycle.com/seatposts/fixed-non-njs-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12/nitto-s84-lugged-seatpost.html
 the crystal fellow is S83, and they have that for about $60

 http://www.alexscycle.com/seatposts/fixed-non-njs-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12/nitto-s83.html
 Regards

 On Thursday, June 4, 2015 at 7:22:55 PM UTC-5, hsmitham wrote:

 Think I may need more setback on the 'ol Atlantis. If you have one and
 don't need it PM me.

 Cheers,

 ~Hugh

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Re: [RBW] ISO NITTO lugged seatpost.

[Aaron Young]

Don't overlook the VO long setback post. Not nearly as fancy as the Riv
lugg'd, but much cheaper. Aesthetically it's equal to the non-lugged nitto
offerings. At least to my eye. I have one on my Atlantis. Will be buying
one for my Sam H soon, too.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Thursday, June 4, 2015, Hugh Smitham hughsmit...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Ryan,

 Thanks for looking. Now that sounds like fun a Michigan tour. Humm wheels
  cogs churning.

 It would be great to ride with you again.

 Cheers,

 ~Hugh
 On Jun 4, 2015 7:33 PM, Abcyclehank hankinso...@me.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','hankinso...@me.com'); wrote:

 Hugh,
  I will check my surplus parts this weekend once school is done
 tomorrow.  I had a spare for a while but may have traded it for a shorter
 lugged stem.
 Hope you, Curtis, Doug, and all the So Cal contingency are doing well.
 If several of you ever get over here to Michigan for some riding, I will be
 happy to host you guys and possibly outfit you with Riv's to ride.

 Ryan Hankinson
 Spring Lake, MI

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Re: [RBW] Wrenching Apron

[Aaron Young]

Bandanas for sure when it comes to sweat.

I bought one of these a few months back and like it.  It's not cheap, but
also not too fancy. I had another pocket added to the chest to.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/191705332/pine-duck-canvas-mens-apron-with-leather

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tuesday, May 5, 2015, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks -- odd I've not thought of them, though I must have at least 20
 large bandanas; I carry them while riding to wipe nose and forehead.

 I guess I can put up with the pirate look.




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Re: [RBW] So your friend calls and says he wants to buy a bike

[Aaron Young]

Well done, DP.  :)  I suggest putting that response in the Best
Posts Ever list.

For your friend who is Tri-curious: have him buy a reliable, heavier than
necessary bike (Atlantis, Sam with drops and shifter/brakes or even a
Roadeo) so that he can train on it.  It's weight training or train
heavy, race light, or whatever. In preparation for race days, he can rent
a super specific Tri bike from the LBS for a week or so (to give time
to get used to the handling). Then the Atlantis gets ridden often, is ready
for more adventures after Tri season is over, and will last him a
lifetime.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Friday, May 1, 2015, Amit Singh asd...@gmail.com wrote:

 He has a budget of $3,000 and wants to buy a tri-bike and wants your
 advice on what to get.

 What do you tell him?

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Re: [RBW] How many rolls of Newbaums on 46cm Noodles?

[Aaron Young]

I always buy a third roll just in case.  If it's not used on the bars then
it can be used on a kick stand, chain stay, or under various clamp on items
on bars or tubes.

Good luck!

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sunday, April 26, 2015, David Banzer daban...@gmail.com wrote:

 I know the Riv site says 2 will work, but just wanted to confirm before I
 head to the LBS and pick up tape. Will 2 rolls work for 46cm Noodles? I
 know it works fine for 44cm Noodles, but can't remember how much tape was
 left over.
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago

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Re: [RBW] The one(s) that got away (or, that Atlantis in Cincinnati)

[Aaron Young]

Never let a kickstand plate be a deal killer, because you can never
completely trust a kickstand.

-Aaron Kickstand Skeptic Young
The Dalles, OR


On Monday, March 30, 2015, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 I'm sure Johnny Fever at WKRP will be happy to help with the next
 transaction that happens in Cincinnati. Grin. And now I can't get the tune
 out my bloomin' head. Sardonic grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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[RBW] I think I'm underutilizing my Bosco bars...

[Aaron Young]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQBbHzypBro

Riv content: a golden bicycle, of course.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Clem vs. Sam vs. Cheviot?

[Aaron Young]

Here's my attempt at an answer:

Get a Sam if you want a bike like that. Get the Cheviot if you want what
the Sam does but with a lower top tube. Get the Clem if you want clearance
for fatter tires than either Sam or Cheviot or you want to spend less.

All three are versatile frames that can do many different things very well
depending on the way it's set up.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR


On Friday, March 20, 2015, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:

 How do you choose and why?

 Eric none of the above right now Daume
 Dublin, OH

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Re: [RBW] A Tough Bike To Love

[Aaron Young]

Are there headbadge photos somewhere?  A man-hole cover seems to come to
mind for the Clem Jr. (Btw, do an image search for man hole cover - it's
surprisingly cool.)  I'm not sure a Clementine would look nice with a
man-hole cover badge though.

Related: I've been thinking of setting up a Clementine as a rough stuff
trail bike with wide knobbies. Seems like it might make a good mountain
bike.  Any reason to not do that?

Thanks,
Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tuesday, March 17, 2015, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 That's a good idea, maybe I will try to make it out to HQ soon.  I hear
 the 52 Clem is built for me to enjoy.

 On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 2:10:42 PM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:

 I was wondering what this thread was about.   I figured Bill had visited
 headquarters or something.  I seem to have fallen off the list, too.
 Didn't get last month's either.  What IS up with that?!  Maybe we both
 accidentally hit unsubscribe links?

 On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 10:32:43 AM UTC-6, Tim wrote:

 I didn't get yesterday's email! What's up with that?!?!

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Re: [RBW] Re: mafac raid brake

[Aaron Young]

On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 6:19 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:

 It's a bit lost in the mists of time, but I think I bought the aero levers
 to replace older non aero levers, and that they seemed the same (except for
 being aero). Do you know when levers started having more mechanical
 advantage? Was that a Mafac versus others differentiator?


My understanding is that the more modern aero levers have more mechanical
advantage than the older non-aero style due to the position of the pivot in
the handle and direction of cable pull.  I've used both types and when set
up correctly had no complaints about braking, so maybe the
mechanical-advantage advantage isn't the biggest issue.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dajia Rear Rack and new Clem Pump

[Aaron Young]

That's a beautiful Trek, too.  Looks like lots of stock components.
Besides the wheelset/casette and racks what isn't stock?  Looks like the
original Sachs Huret rear derailleur.  I love those. :)

Aaron used to live in Rochester Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tue, Mar 3, 2015 at 7:55 AM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 That's tremendous.


 On Tuesday, March 3, 2015 at 7:43:28 AM UTC-8, David Hays wrote:

 I've had a a couple of Dajia rear racks for a few years that Velo Orange
 sells. One new and one purchased from someone in the group. VO advertises
 that it features pump pegs but no one there knew of any pumps that would
 fit.
 When Rivendell came out with the new advanced Pletscher Clem rack and
 pump I noticed the pump dimensions were what the Dajia specified. I bought
 a Clem Pletscher and three pumps.
 Not looking to cause a run on either but the Clem /Rookie pump seems to
 fit the Dajia like it was made for it.
 Haven't had a chance to ride it to see how well it holds over bumps, etc,
 as it's currently 13º and snowing again here in Buffalo but it looks like a
 nice combination of kit.
 Here it is on my Trek 500.
 David Hays
 Kenmore, New York USA


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SJK9GcUquxI/VPXWb8Eo94I/A6E/VKKDEWn-Ork/s1600/Trek-500-and-Dajia-rear-rack.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a8D400qKelU/VPXWk4vvMpI/A6M/s2U8hPRCwZE/s1600/Trek-500-Dajia-reak-rack-and-Rookie-pump.jpg


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Re: [RBW] Grant Petersen's views on mountain bike development?

[Aaron Young]

Went out for some real mountain biking yesterday morning.  Challenging
single cross with lots of climbing (and walking for me). (Trail info:
http://rideoregonride.com/mountain-biking/syncline-trail/).  I rode my Koga
Miyata Valley Runner (early 90's rigid mtn) with albatross bars and
barcons.  Also, I had a Hobo handlebar bag and tires were the Compass 26 x
1.75 (Pasela style tread pattern).   In general, I love riding this bike,
but it was way out of its element on this terrain.  Climbing was easier
with hands forward on the bars rather than at the grips, but then I didn't
have access to shifting and brakes, which in tricky terrain like this is
essential.  I often bumped the barcon with my knee and was quickly cursing
bar-ends for tricky terrain.

This bike in its current set up is great for dirt roads, fire trails, and
cruising around, but it's no mountain bike.  Knobby tires would certainly
improve things quickly, but the Albatross bars aren't great for real
mountain biking, at least for me.  And the bar ends weren't working well
either.  For real mountain biking I would much prefer a bullmoose style
flat bar or at least a Moustache or Albastache to get my hands further
forward to help with climbing while maintaining easy access to the brakes
if not the shift levers.  So based on my experience I agree with Mike about
the handlebars at least.

I still had a great time.  And here's some pictures of the beautiful
Columbia River Gorge where this experiment took place:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sk8_or_die/sets/72157650523902289/

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR



On Wednesday, February 18, 2015, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Head angles starting tightning up with the 2nd MTB built, literally.  Joe
 Breeze has stated that Breezer #1 (his personal bike) had a head-tube angle
 of 67.5 degrees and for Breezers #2-10, he made it 68 degrees.   He had
 really liked a bike with a 70 degree head angle but some other
 characteristics of the bike didn't suit him so he chose not to use it as
 the basis for the geometry of his bikes. His second series of bikes also
 had 68 degree head angles but by 1982 he was building bikes with 70 degree
 head tubes.  I think he was still sticking with longer chainstays though.

 For those really interested in this stuff, here's a fascinating article:

 http://www.peterverdone.com/?p=2399



 On Tuesday, February 17, 2015 at 11:13:15 PM UTC-6, Mike Schiller wrote:

 oh gawd!   alba/bosco whatever on an MTB... never in my life ( I hope)!
 The tighter geometry on MTB's was happening in '87 for sure.  I was racing
 NORBA on a Fisher and it was not slack.  https://www.flickr.com/
 photos/37347002@N05/16209721716/
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/37347002@N05/16209721716/
 The Bstones were a little steeper HA in the early 90's ( had an MB-2) but
 not much.  Most MTB's transitioned to the NORBA geo of 71/73 angles and
 shorter chainstays in the late 80's including Bridgestone.

 ~mike
 Carlsbad Ca


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Re: [RBW] Paul Brakes -- Wow!

[Aaron Young]

How very interesting. What do you think is making the difference?  Same or
different pads on each type of brake?   Of course the old ones were set up
normally, right?

In any case, I'm glad the new ones are working so well for you. :)

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR


On Thursday, February 19, 2015, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 No brake judder in the initial wee test, and there would have been with
 the Tektros on that same test. I'm stunned with the difference.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Grant Petersen's views on mountain bike development?

[Aaron Young]

I have albatross bars on my Koga Miyata Valley Runner which is my most
mountaintop bike right now.  I like the wide upright bars for rough stuff
riding except for rapid descents.  During braking my hands are always
creeping forward on the grips which makes braking feel sketchy.

I much prefer the moustache bars I have on my Sam H for braking in descents
because of the hand position. But I agree the moustache doesn't have the
luxurious feel of the Bosco or albatross.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR.




On Tuesday, February 17, 2015, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree with you Grant.  I think Bosco bars would be perfect on my 90s
 mountain bike!  And definitely rid of toe clips.

 On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 10:35 AM, Grant Petersen 
 eatbacondont...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','eatbacondont...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 I've changed my thoughts on handlebar height and toe clips...but I think
 I'm on more solid ground now. I see that MB-3 in the spread and ... it's
 begging for Bosco bars, and to be stripped of its toe clips! That was from
 24 years ago, I think. I'll stand by the rest of it! G

 On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 7:21:23 AM UTC-8, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:

 Does anyone recall if Grant has discussed his views on the development
 of the mountain bike?  He was in the Bay area at the time.  He was an
 active cyclist at the time.  He wrote a couple of books about places to
 ride in the Bay area.  I'm curious if he was aware of the Klunker scene
 going on in Marin and when he saw his first MTB and what he thought?  Did
 he meet any of the main protaganists while they were developing the MTB?

 Has he discussed this in any of the old RR issues?  Maybe a good topic
 for a future issue or a Blug post?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Brake Levers for the Albastache

[Aaron Young]

Yep, Patrick is right.  Any normal road lever should work.  I have some
older non-aero style on my Moustache bars which I like because cable
routing is pretty easy.  With more modern aero levers the cables go under
the bar tape for a short distance.  Not too big of a deal though, and you
don't have the cables sticking out the front like with non-aero levers.
Just pick ones that you like the feel of as you grip them (sideways), and
that look good to you.  Keep it simple. :)

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sun, Feb 15, 2015 at 7:51 AM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Road levers.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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Re: [RBW] FS: Rivendell Custom Complete Bike....$550

[Aaron Young]

What a cool old Riv.

I love the half-step/granny triples, and actually prefer them to the
46/36/26 set up that Riv sells.  However, I like to put slightly smaller
rings, so instead of a 50/46/28 (or so) I like a 48/42/28 (or so).  And I
like the rings to be Bio-Pace.

So, now you see what kind of a person I really am. :)

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Fri, Feb 13, 2015 at 9:51 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm not so sure about that, the chainstays look really narrow to me.

 http://images.craigslist.org/00V0V_iGpterKVsYZ_600x450.jpg


 On Fri, Feb 13, 2015 at 11:20 AM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Would be a pretty nice candidate for a 650B conversion. BB would be a bit
 low, but that can be dealt with.

 On Fri, Feb 13, 2015 at 8:21 AM, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:

 I concur;  I have no need of it, but seeing a Riv at that price, I was
 even considering it, even if I just passed it along later. sounds like
 it might've found a good home!





 On Friday, February 13, 2015 at 10:09:36 AM UTC-5, Tim Gavin wrote:

 1st gen Rivendells (Road Standard, LongLow, All Rounder, and the
 elusive Mountain) had those long point fork lugs and Reynolds tubing
 stickers.  753 frame and 531 fork (753 fork blades were out of production),
 made by Waterford.  Supposedly a custom butt profile (Grant's been at this
 a while).

 That said, I can't tell if this is a RS or LL, or a true custom.  I
 don't know if the first gen customs were also built by Waterford.

 Regardless, it's a steal for a Riv with Frankenparts.  I'd have chimed
 in on it if I didn't already have a Road Standard, and if others hadn't
 already said they'd contacted the seller.

 On Fri, Feb 13, 2015 at 9:00 AM, Jim Bronson jim.b...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Wow never seen a Rivendell with tubing stickers before.

 Half step triple, always thought those things were weird.  Brake
 release a bit rusty.  Monochome paint?  Front wheel looks out of place.
 Rear wheel 48 spokes?  Odd, but probably effective.

 Minor quibbles really though.  Nice ride.  I'd own it, but it's not
 close to my size.  Steal of the year for $550 complete.

 On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 2:46 PM, Gregg Vurbeff gre...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 This is my listing on Craigslist.

 http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/4883409155.html

 Check it and and let me know if your interested.
 Thanks!
 Gregg

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 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal



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Re: [RBW] Lars AndersEn archery on the Blug

[Aaron Young]

Oops.  Classically, I forgot the link.  Here it is:

http://www.skeptic.com/insight/pulling-a-fast-one-video-critique-of-a-viral-speed-archery-video/

Thanks to Amit for noticing.  :)

Aaron Always Forgetful Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sun, Feb 8, 2015 at 6:02 PM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:

 I was really impressed when I saw the Lars video. However, I just saw this
 one that is worth checking out if you have 15 min.  In short, another
 skilled archer myth busts Lars' claims, and does a really good job of it.

 It never hurts to maintain a healthy amount of skepticism.

 Aaron wet blanket Young
 The Dalles, OR






 On Saturday, February 7, 2015, William R. wroma...@optonline.net wrote:

 Bike, Book, Bow  Hatchet? I've watched that video a few times. Amazing.
 And Lars is certainly take a Rivish approach to archery.

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis or Hunq - what's the real difference?

[Aaron Young]

I recently had a discussion with an experienced frame builder and it came
up that tubing diameter has a bigger effect than the thickness or thinness
of the tubes; at least with common wall thicknesses.  Apparently there are
online calculators that show flex characteristics of a tube and this is
where that idea can be verified.

I'm certain the outside diameter of the Atlantis tubes are the same
as always.  So wether its tubes are a bit thinner/thicker is probably not
that important.

We didn't discuss the effect of butted vs straight gauge so I can't comment
on that.  Based on how folks seem to love even the straight gauge Rivs, my
guess is it doesn't have a very strong impact on the overall experience.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR


On Thursday, February 12, 2015, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 I have a memory of reading some specs on the AHH and at most, it was
 8/5/8.  It was something like Roadeo = 7/4/7, AHH = 8/5/8, Atlantis =
 9/6/9.  I don't remember a mention of butted tubes but I suspect the Roadeo
 and AHH have them and maybe the Atlantis.



 On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 12:15:09 PM UTC-6, Christopher Chen
 wrote:

 When he was repairing my 57 AHH, my friend remarked that the tubing was
 surprisingly light, maybe 8 5 8 or something like that. So yeah, there be
 differences!

 On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Surlyprof jmcc...@gmail.com wrote:

 This from the Hillborne catalog:

 *Silver Tubes. They look normal from the outside, but*

 *Silver tubes are our own design and are better for it.*

 *Rather than using industry-standard double-butted tubing*

 *picked stock from a catalogue, we shifted the wall*

 *thickness around to better address the stresses. long*

 *story short, we have more metal where it matters and*

 *less where it doesn’t. There is not a better-designed*

 *tubeset available, and it’s ours (and yours) alone.*

 Sounds similar to the way Thomson seatposts have a round outer cross
 section and an elliptical interior section leaving metal where strength is
 needed and less where it is not.


 John


 On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 4:46:19 AM UTC-8, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:

 I think that may be one of the misconceptions about Rivendells and
 Grant has even made comments that support this.  Rivendell's use expensive
 tube sets because who would buy a $2000 frame knowing it had plain ole'
 4130 cro-mo?  People expect fancy steel in a frame that expensive.
 However, since bikes like the Bombadil and Hunaqapillar may have 1+mm
 tubing (straight or butted...who knows?) and the Atlantis has 9/6/9 tubes,
 there may not be that much benefit to the expensive tubes.  My
 understanding is that the benefit of expensive tubes is high quality steel
 that allows the builder to use less of it and produce a higher performance
 bike.  The heavier Riv's don't seem to be designed to take advantage of
 this.  The Roadeo and maybe the AHH may be a different story and they may
 benefit tremendously from better tubing.

 There's probably more to the story when you get into the fine details
 of all parts of the frame but overall, I think the above is accurate.



 On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 12:24:50 AM UTC-6, drew beckmeyer
 wrote:

 really? straight gauge?

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Re: [RBW] Lars AndersEn archery on the Blug

[Aaron Young]

I was really impressed when I saw the Lars video. However, I just saw this
one that is worth checking out if you have 15 min.  In short, another
skilled archer myth busts Lars' claims, and does a really good job of it.

It never hurts to maintain a healthy amount of skepticism.

Aaron wet blanket Young
The Dalles, OR





On Saturday, February 7, 2015, William R. wroma...@optonline.net wrote:

 Bike, Book, Bow  Hatchet? I've watched that video a few times. Amazing.
 And Lars is certainly take a Rivish approach to archery.

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Re: [RBW] 56cm 650B Toyo Homer for sale on RBW site...

[Aaron Young]

I put the bike in my cart this morning just to see what would happen.  Went
all the way through the checkout process, included a note explaining I
assumed it had already been sold.  I was going to do it as an experiment.
For SCIENCE!   But decided not to click the final button as it would
probably just cause more headache and confusion.

Starting to think that even sending this email is adding to the headache.

Aaron Young

On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 10:20 AM, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:

 I think the best thing to do for these frame/bike web specials is that you
 really need to call to make sure, we all want to rely on amazon level of
 accuracy for on-line orders, and for the most part rivbike.com does a
 good job of representing in-stock items, but it looks like the frames/bikes
 specials are an exception

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Re: [RBW] 56cm 650B Toyo Homer for sale on RBW site...

[Aaron Young]

Well at least you got The Best. :)

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR



On Thursday, February 5, 2015, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 It's not for sale anymore.

 WHAT THE F*CK AM I GOING TO DO WITH THREE HOMER HILSENS

 On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 3:42 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cc...@nougat.org'); wrote:

 WHAT?!

 On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 3:35 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','tapebu...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 When I looked the first time I was like $1400 ?!?  That's a steal!!

 Now it's $1000 ?!?!?

 On Thursday, February 5, 2015 at 12:37:29 PM UTC-8, Christopher Chen
 wrote:

 if I didn't have my 58 I'd be all over it like dry rub on a brisket

 On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 12:29 PM, Nick Ybarra nyb...@gmail.com wrote:

 If that were my size, it would be gone, gone gone.  Someone's gonna be
 mighty happy!


 On Thursday, February 5, 2015 at 1:55:40 PM UTC-6, Christopher Chen
 wrote:

 It's a Steel!

 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/wsf-114.htm

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Re: [RBW] 56cm 650B Toyo Homer for sale on RBW site...

[Aaron Young]

This purchase lends more support to the accusation that you just keep
building the same bike over and over.  :)

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Thursday, February 5, 2015, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 My credit card company gives me a float on rationalizing what I just did

 On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 6:29 PM, Pondero cj.spin...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cj.spin...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 Hello everyone, my name is Chris.  I have a Hilsen fetish. -
 Christopher Chen

 Chris Johnson
 Sanger, Texas

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Re: [RBW] 56cm 650B Toyo Homer for sale on RBW site...

[Aaron Young]

I was wondering about that.  Thumbs up. :)

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Thursday, February 5, 2015, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 Find the thing that makes you happy and do it for the rest of your life

 I'm rationalizing this by thinking this bike would primarily be ridden by
 someone else but hey we'll have to see what she says

 On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 6:36 PM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','1ce...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 This purchase lends more support to the accusation that you just keep
 building the same bike over and over.  :)

 -Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

 On Thursday, February 5, 2015, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cc...@nougat.org'); wrote:

 My credit card company gives me a float on rationalizing what I just did

 On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 6:29 PM, Pondero cj.spin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello everyone, my name is Chris.  I have a Hilsen fetish. -
 Christopher Chen

 Chris Johnson
 Sanger, Texas

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[RBW] Mithril?

[Aaron Young]

Interesting overview of a new alloy that might be made into bicycles
someday. Or become vapor ware.

http://www.economist.com/news/science-and-technology/21642107-alloy-iron-and-aluminium-good-titanium-tenth?fsrc=scn/tw/te/pe/ed/wingsofsteel

And here's the Riv-specific content:

http://flic.kr/p/obzSPw

Hope Grant P. won't mind if I share a pic of his Homer from Entmoot.

Aaron nerd fest Young
The Dalles, OR

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[RBW] Re: Mithril?

[Aaron Young]

I know nothing about mettalurgy. Is there a reason to suppose it wouldn't
accept a weld?  Aluminum bike frames are welded aren't they?

I also know next to nothing about making bicycle frames, but I would hazard
a guess that even if it wouldn't accept a weld that a lugged or brazed
frame would still be an option.

Aaron metal know nothing Young
The Dalles, OR


On Wednesday, February 4, 2015, Bill webe...@gmail.com wrote:

 No mention as to whether it could be welded. That would be a significant
 factor regarding commercial development.

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Re: [RBW] The Worst

[Aaron Young]

I dig it.

The Worst idea is easy for me to like, although I admit my natural
tendency is more towards  The Best.

Bringing it back to bikes; I've many times told friends looking for a bike
to buy one that's affordable and ride the snot out of it. Figure out what
works, what doesn't, and what a reasonable second bike might be.  (It's
inevitable that there will be a Second Bike.)

Now, thinking on fancy bikes: my favorite examples are those that are
bought as The Best but used and ridden as The Worst.  They
often acquire this quality of beauty that comes about through usage.
Someone should invent a good word to describe that. ;)

-Aaron planet-hopping Young
The Dalles, OR



On Tuesday, February 3, 2015, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 I know it's a bit weird to send this to our favorite fancy bike mailing
 list but I've always found this blog post inspiring in a way:

 http://www.thoughtcrime.org/blog/the-worst/

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis + Nitto M12 FR = ???

[Aaron Young]

Tim,

Good idea there.  I'll try that.  Bending the canti arms was up'n'down was
exactly what was bugging me.  Seemed like the arms are long enough levers
to make breaking the weld not too difficult.  Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks,
Aaron

On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 10:36 AM, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com
wrote:

 I love the M12, it fit my KOM fork perfectly with very little bending.  If
 you're worried about bending at the weld points, then maybe use clamps or a
 vise to isolate the areas you're bending.

 Also, I'd bend each arm in one direction only.  Bend the top fork arm
 (that goes to the brake bolt hole) for the up and down adjustment, and bend
 the canti bolt arms outward for the lateral fit.

 I used the double-ended canti bolts that Riv sells
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/rh2.htm, but the M12 I bought
 http://www.modernbike.com/nitto-m12-front-rack came with them included
 (and was only $82 with free shipping).

 On Fri, Jan 30, 2015 at 12:04 PM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Bunch,

 Trying to fit a Nitto M12 (attaches to canti bosses) onto a 56 Atlantis.
 Having trouble bending the rack to get the right fit.  Feeling like I'm
 bending it against the welds in ways and with force that might lead to
 damage/breakage.

 Any hints to get the rack to fit?  Am I being too timid about those
 welds? Just go for it with a bit more muscle?

 Thanks,

 Aaron Rack-Flummoxed Young
 The Dalles, OR

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[RBW] Atlantis + Nitto M12 FR = ???

[Aaron Young]

Hey Bunch,

Trying to fit a Nitto M12 (attaches to canti bosses) onto a 56 Atlantis.
Having trouble bending the rack to get the right fit.  Feeling like I'm
bending it against the welds in ways and with force that might lead to
damage/breakage.

Any hints to get the rack to fit?  Am I being too timid about those welds?
Just go for it with a bit more muscle?

Thanks,

Aaron Rack-Flummoxed Young
The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass 26 × 1.75 Feedback requested

[Aaron Young]

I've just replaced some Big Bens  on an older mountain-y bike with the
Compass tires.  Only limited riding on them so far, but they've been
great.  Maybe a bit quicker feeling then the BB's.  Just eyeballing, but
they seem to be almost as poofy as the Hetres (not 26, I know) I have on
my Sam, which I just love.  The Compass have a bit more tread (Pasela
style), but so far they make me happy even though they are less-poofy than
the BB's.  Wish I could give you a long term report on each, but I don't
have enough miles on either to do that yet.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:41 PM, Rod Holland rholland1...@gmail.com wrote:

 I run Compass 1.75 on one bike, 2.15 Big Ben's on another (how I ended
 up with two 26 inch bikes is a long story). I run both on mixed terrain,
 with good results. The Compass tires spin up faster, and I use them for
 day-long rides (75+ miles) with a mix of pavement and trails. The Big Bens
 will pretty much roll over anything, and I tend to use them where that will
 be helpful: think monster truck.

 rod

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT: Cut a corner off my Unracer card -- I raced!

[Aaron Young]

And remember the other side of the UnRacer Card says Just Ride.  I
think you're fine. :)

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 10:32 AM, William deRosset wmderos...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Dear Tim,

 Congratulations! It sounds like a great day outside. There's a card?


 Besides, What is more unracer than racing? Consider the following.

 Tying into the eat bacon, don't bonk thread, short-ish racing efforts
 (especially criterium racing and CX racing, shockingly enough) are a whole
 lot closer to the HIIT exercises and Tabata sprints touted for the unracing
 crowd than the moderate long-distance riding most of us do for fun.

 Consider:

 Criterium: Bug-eyed for a minute or so at the start, settle into the
 rhythm and recover if you're near the front, or get cross-eyed four times a
 minute if you're in the back and having to hammer out of every corner; get
 redlined for a minute or so to establish a break, a few minutes
 criss-crossing into the red to hold off the charging pack, then see purple
 stars for fifteen seconds at the sprint, recover gently? All in under an
 hour.

 Cyclocross: Bug-eyed for fifteen seconds or so at the start, floating in
 red haze and for a few seconds on the runups and barriers (so eight or ten
 times in 45min, tunnel-vision on the finishing straight for ten seconds or
 so, recover gently.

 I'd keep the corner of your card.

 Cheers,

 Will
 William M. deRosset
 Fort Collins, CO

 On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 10:28:27 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:

 (Off-topic due to no Riv content, but an Unracer discussion kinda fits
 in.)

 I competed in my first race ever this Sunday, so I guess I should cut a
 corner off my unracer card as penalty.  :)

 The Triple D winter endurance race is 63 miles (100k) of gnarly
 snowmobile trail single track, B-roads, and the crushed lime Heritage Trail
 outside of Dubuque, IA.  It was 40F, and the surface conditions ranged from
 sloppy to extra sloppy.  95% of the riders (including myself) chose fat
 bikes.  Steve (owner/operator of Thirtieth Century bikes in Iowa City) is
 friends with Ira Ryan and rode a rigid steel Breadwinner 29er single speed.

 I took comfortable breaks to warm up and chose a relatively sane pace, so
 my time was near the bottom of the finishers at 8:45.  Considering that
 almost half of the riders don't finish the race (there is an associated
 poker tour you can flex to if you drop out of the race proper), I feel very
 proud for finishing at all!

 Overall, a challenging but fun experience.  The race concept did act as
 a motivator to push myself a little harder, but I wasn't aiming for a
 place.  I was racing the sun more than any other rider, and I still got in
 long after dark.

 Riv-ish accessories:  Brooks flyer, Crane bell, German mirror, Aardvark
 saddle cover.  I have to clean and re-wax the Brooks, as the elastic saddle
 cover disappeared really early in the race.

 Tim Gavin
 Cedar Rapids, IA




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[RBW] WTB: IRD Stem shifter mount

[Aaron Young]

I'm stem-shifter curious.  If you have one of those stem shifter mount
things that you aren't using, then please let me know.  Off-list please -
sheesh have some decency, right? ;)

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Homer brake improvements?

[Aaron Young]

Sorry I'm a bit late to the discussion.   Happy for you that you decided on
the Pauls with Mark's help.  I'm sure they will be great.

For posterity's sake I can add a bit to the conversation because I do have
experience with the DC750's on a Trek 400 that I converted to 650b, which
in many ways is very similar to a 650b Homer.  I replaced the stock pads
with Kool Stops and they are some of the best brakes I've ever had.
However, I have only limited experience with the R559's and none with the
Pauls so I can't compare directly.  Just want to suggest that the DC's are
likely 95% of the experience of the Pauls for less cash and a good option
that is not to be feared.  In the future if I had a choice between the
R559s and the DCs I would go with DC750.  If I had to choose between Paul
and the 750's I would also go with 750's, but more because I prefer the
aesthetics (and cost) of the 750s.  I'm not a fan of the look of most Paul
components.  Maybe someday I'll get past that.

In any case, Congratulations on the 650b Homer!  A great bike with any
brake configuration. :)

Aaron Centerpulling Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sat, Jan 17, 2015 at 8:16 AM, Doug Williams salg...@minbaritm.com
wrote:

 Peter,

 Thanks for making this clear for me! I had visited Paul's website, but due
 to insufficient brain power, I didn't have a clear understanding of the
 difference between the braze-on version and the center-mount version
 (except for the obvious part about the braze-on version requiring specially
 positioned braze-on's). I missed the center mount conversion kit link that
 you posted below. Now everything is clear to me.

 I'm getting Paul Racers for my new 58cm 650b Homer. I want to run 42mm
 tires and P50 LongBoard fenders. Hopefully the Paul Racers will help with
 clearance issues as well as stopping the bike. Actually, I'm quite certain
 that they will...because Mark said so when I called Riv.  :-)  Obviously,
 I'm going with the center mount version because I'm not eager to take a
 torch to my new frame! My frame was ordered December 30th, so now I am just
 waiting...waiting...waiting.  :-(

 Miles and years down the road when I need a repaint, I might consider
 adding the braze-on's...if I was convinced that there was going to be a big
 difference in performance and/or ease of adjustment. Is there really a
 convincing case for that?

 Doug Williams


 On Saturday, January 17, 2015 at 1:57:46 AM UTC-8, Peter Adler wrote:

 Correction: The center-mount Racers are identical to the braze-on Racers
 - they just have the additional bolt-on bridge and pivots installed, which
 keeps the bearings spaced correctly and attaches to the frame/fork brake
 holes. That's the reason the braze-ons are $14 cheaper than the bolt-ons:
 Fewer parts. Paul sells an aftermarket conversion kit for braze-ons for $50:

 http://www.paulcomp.com/spareparts/racercentermountkit.html?relatedid=355
 http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.paulcomp.com%2Fspareparts%2Fracercentermountkit.html%3Frelatedid%3D355sa=Dsntz=1usg=AFQjCNETcl21hbq1PdjKgnsLP7WnB2OZLg

 Considering that the bolt-on conversion kit costs $35 more than getting
 the bolt-on bridge preinstalled, I think the shrewd purchase is to buy the
 bolt-on version and then pull off the bridge when you've finally gotten the
 canti posts brazed on in the correct position. Not only does it give you
 the option of using the brakes before you've gotten your act together for
 torch surgery, but you have more resale options down the road.

 Peter Adler
 Berkeley, CA/USA

 On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 1:46:17 PM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:

 Paul Racers are available as braze-on only (to be mounted on a fork with
 dedicated braze-ons), or the bolt-on version (which I have) which has a
 bridge between the arms to mount to the standard brake hole.

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[RBW] Early Riv Serial numbers?

[Aaron Young]

Hey Gang,

Just reading about the stolen Atlantis and the importance of keeping track
of the serial numbers.  I was looking at my Atlantis the other day for just
this reason and can only find Rivendell stamped on the bottom bracket.
No serial number.  Did the early Riv's not have serial numbers?  Did they
stamp them somewhere else?  This Atlantis is an early one; from 1999 based
on what the original owner told me when I bought it from him.

Thanks,
Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: Early Riv Serial numbers?

[Aaron Young]

Ah, there it is.  Thanks for your help gang.  I guess the first time I
looked I didn't look hard enough.  I saw the Rivendell stamp and was
expecting something similarly distinct.  Looks like this frame is stamped
AT0051.  Guessing that means #51?  Here's a photo: https://flic.kr/p/qLu96Q

Now if I could just find the right handlebar/stem combo for this frame...

Thanks,
Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR


On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 11:02 AM, John Bennett johnat...@gmail.com wrote:

 The first Atlantis frames were delivered in the fall of 2000. They all
 have numbers on the bottom bracket shell, running horizontal. Some were
 pretty lightly stamped and hard to read. Mine was from the first batch,
 too. Ol' No. 91.




 On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 12:57:35 AM UTC-8, AaronY wrote:

 Hey Gang,

 Just reading about the stolen Atlantis and the importance of keeping
 track of the serial numbers.  I was looking at my Atlantis the other day
 for just this reason and can only find Rivendell stamped on the bottom
 bracket.  No serial number.  Did the early Riv's not have serial numbers?
 Did they stamp them somewhere else?  This Atlantis is an early one; from
 1999 based on what the original owner told me when I bought it from him.

 Thanks,
 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

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[RBW] Re: Early Riv Serial numbers?

[Aaron Young]

Chris,

Thanks for the offer. I'm going to think about the bars for a bit.  Will
let you know.

Thanks,
Aaron

On Sunday, January 11, 2015, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 Patience Aaron Young Grasshopper...

 I have a spare 8cm/26.0 tallux stem you're welcome to, mustache bars too

 On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 11:39 AM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','1ce...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 Ah, there it is.  Thanks for your help gang.  I guess the first time I
 looked I didn't look hard enough.  I saw the Rivendell stamp and was
 expecting something similarly distinct.  Looks like this frame is stamped
 AT0051.  Guessing that means #51?  Here's a photo:
 https://flic.kr/p/qLu96Q

 Now if I could just find the right handlebar/stem combo for this frame...


 Thanks,
 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR


 On Sun, Jan 11, 2015 at 11:02 AM, John Bennett johnat...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','johnat...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 The first Atlantis frames were delivered in the fall of 2000. They all
 have numbers on the bottom bracket shell, running horizontal. Some were
 pretty lightly stamped and hard to read. Mine was from the first batch,
 too. Ol' No. 91.




 On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 12:57:35 AM UTC-8, AaronY wrote:

 Hey Gang,

 Just reading about the stolen Atlantis and the importance of keeping
 track of the serial numbers.  I was looking at my Atlantis the other day
 for just this reason and can only find Rivendell stamped on the bottom
 bracket.  No serial number.  Did the early Riv's not have serial numbers?
 Did they stamp them somewhere else?  This Atlantis is an early one; from
 1999 based on what the original owner told me when I bought it from him.

 Thanks,
 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

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Re: [RBW] Re: shimano cx-70 canti question

[Aaron Young]

Paul, you are a bozo, too?  I thought I was the only one! :)

Yes, the CX-70's differ in more than just pad length.  The vertical slot
that the pads sit in are on the front end of the brake.  Many other canti's
are designed in the reverse way with the pad slot nearer to the fork legs
(see this here on the Tektro 720's:
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc15153.htm).  This design element is
what allows the CX-70's to open so widely.  At least that's what it looks
like to me.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sun Jan 04 2015 at 8:02:31 AM Paul Brodek p...@skyweb.net wrote:


 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yR1GgbfFYAY/VKljdYWolXI/ADk/Q2Teets9zGw/s1600/Schwinn%2BParamount%2BP15%2B%2777%2B-%2BAt%2BWork%2B-%2B03.jpg
 So, I'm just a bozo on this bus, was never in love with cantis, but they
 seem to be a necessary evil to allow fatter tire clearance, esp with
 vintage steel. Picked up lightly-used CX70s to convert a 27 narrow-mount
 canti bike to 700C wheels, reading online that CX70s had lots of
 adjustability and good geometry to do that. Overall the operation was
 successful, so I can recommend trying this setup to ya'll in similar
 situations. Possibly pertinent/useless on-topic observations:

 1. IME the CX70s stop really, really well. Solid feel, good modulation,
 quick stops. No performance negatives to report. The narrow mounts on this
 particular bike might help; the shoes, I'm sure, contribute (see below).
 2. Dense I am, but AFAICT the CX70s open wide Riv thing is only due to
 the short stock brake blocks? Is there anything else special with the CX70
 that they open wider than other cantis regardless of brake block length?
 O/W, use any canti you like  just switch to short brake blocks? And if the
 blocks hitting the stays/blades is what prevents wide opening, regardless
 of brake brand/type, if short shoes hit metal before the calipers fully
 spread their wings, well, you're hosed.
 3. I always ditch one-piece/weirdo straddle link thingies for good ol'
 cable  straddle.
 4. The CX70 cable-end receptor and cable anchor device is needlessly
 complex/weird. You do need a little more cable slack to extract the cable
 end.
 5. I use almost exclusively aero brake levers, and lotsa brifters, so
 extracting the cable end is always difficult when brakes are adjusted to
 taste. I have two general workarounds:
 *Curse and swear mightily, and be OK with light finger laceration.
 *Adjust cable just a little loose enough to remove cable without
 cussing/laceration, and take up that little bit o' slack w/adjuster
 barrels. Helps to have a setup with adjuster barrels somewhere in the cable
 path. Gets the cable out w/o too much squishiness.
 *Tektro, especially TRP levers w/QR buttons, are very helpful, that's what
 I use w/bar-cons.
 6. I tend to favor longer brake shoes, for better braking, so even
 removing the straddle cable often doesn't clear the tire, especially with
 vintage narrow-mount setups.
 *Canti bikes that might need to go into the car often might get short
 blocks up front, preventing my fellow club riders from hearing me swearing
 mightily, in public.
 *Recently a big fan of Kool-Stop thinline dual-compound ATB shoes: thin,
 non-replaceable, but long and curved to follow the rim arc; have to be OK
 with a large screened ATB logo on your non-ATB machine.
 *More recently found Kool-Stop thinline dual-compound BMX shoes seem
 identical to their ATB cousins, but are cheaper; the price you pay for
 saving $$$ is the even-more-declasse BMX screened on the shoes.
 *The brake shoe length/type stuff above also applies, for me, to non-canti
 centerpull calipers that use canti shoes. I'm primarily talking Paul
 Components here. Short blocks up front for car bikes, long Kool-Stop
 thinline dual-compound ATBs in the back.
 7. I think this is all
 8. I will attempt to attach a piccie of the non-Riv vintage steed w/CX-70
 calipers.




 On Friday, December 19, 2014 9:33:17 PM UTC-5, drew beckmeyer wrote:

 ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i
 just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50
 tires everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever
 brakes but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off.

 riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video
 shows a guy doing it
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)
 here is the description and pics of it opened up
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm

 in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem
 possible to slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack
 to get the cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes
 are super wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from
 the rim. adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work
 either.

 so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid
 deflating

Re: [RBW] Re: shimano cx-70 canti question

[Aaron Young]

Shoji and Kurt - which size spacer did you use on your Hunqas?  I'm putting
these on my Atlantis right now, but the chart on the directions sheet
doesn't extrapolate out far enough.  It seems like the mid-sized ones would
be best.

Thanks,
Aaron

On Fri Dec 26 2014 at 10:02:02 AM Kurt Manley kurtaman...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have those brakes and they are awesome but it is hard to release the
 straddle cable. Most cantis you can easily unhook the cable end from the
 brake arm. On CX70's it's hard to get the end to release from the canti
 arm. I have to push on the cable end through the hole in the front of the
 arm to get it to release. I use a key or an allen or whatever's handy with
 a small point. After that they open plenty far to clear 700x60 tires on my
 Hunq.


 On Friday, December 19, 2014 6:33:17 PM UTC-8, drew beckmeyer wrote:

 ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i
 just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50
 tires everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever
 brakes but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off.

 riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video
 shows a guy doing it
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)
 here is the description and pics of it opened up
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm

 in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem
 possible to slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack
 to get the cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes
 are super wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from
 the rim. adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work
 either.

 so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid
 deflating or loosening the other side of the cable hanger and then
 readjusting the brakes all over again. i couldve done that with the old
 brakes.

 many thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: shimano cx-70 canti question

[Aaron Young]

Wow, that is a serious case of dorkery.  You may want to get that checked.
 :)  Thanks for the info.  I'll go with the mediums and feel it out.
Changing the spacers later on if need be won't be too big of a job any way.


Thanks,
Aaron

On Sat Jan 03 2015 at 3:03:48 PM Tom Harrop twhar...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Aaron,

 I can't believe I'm admitting this in public, but last winter I wrote a
 little calculator to optimise my canti setup using the formulas suggested
 by Benno Belhumeur (circleacycles.com). I made some changes to the
 formula to take into account changes in canti angle caused by changing the
 spacer setup on the brake pad attachment.

 To sum up, on my Bombadil with CX-70 brakes and wide rims (30 mm OD) the
 medium spacers gave the most mechanical advantage. To adjust the brakes, I
 set the yoke as low as it would go. This gave me too much MA so I gradually
 raised the yoke until it felt right.

 Excuse the dorkery...!

 Tom

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Re: [RBW] PSA: Are you missing a large yellow Albatrossed A. Homer Hilsen ?

[Aaron Young]

I knew it! :)

On Thursday, December 18, 2014, Cyclofiend Jim cyclofi...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 Yep.  He's on this list... hey!?!?! that's ME!

 That image was from a visit to the RBWHQL - I was snapping images of
 staff bicycle parking.  Which is consistent with the comments which follow.

 - Jim My Hilsen is Blue, though I have said 'rockin'

 On Monday, December 15, 2014 7:42:02 PM UTC-8, AaronY wrote:

 That link goes to Jim E.  He's on this list, no?

 -Aaron



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Re: [RBW] shimano cx-70 canti question

[Aaron Young]

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/dia-compe-cable-stop-with-quick-release.html

Here's another option that adds a quick release function to the brake
line.  I have one of these installed on a bike with center pulls and it
works great.  I like non-aero brakes so the Tektro levers aren't my first
choice.

BTW, I just bought the CX-70's for the same reason as you, Drew.  I'm glad
you brought this up as I imagine I will have the same problem you
mentioned.  I think I will buy one of these dia compe cable stops right now
in anticipation.

Can anyone who is actively using these brakes speak to how well they work?
Usually, if Riv is selling something I just trust that it will work well
enough.  I'm expecting the same from these CX-70's but I read an Amazon
review saying skip 'em and go for the cheaper Tektro 720's.  Can anyone
weigh in?  Thanks.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR




On Fri Dec 19 2014 at 7:48:55 PM Dan McNamara djmcnam...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have had good luck using the release on Tektro brakes with the CX-70.
 Not sure I could get the straddle off without that slack.

 Dan



 On Dec 19, 2014, at 6:33 PM, drew beckmeyer drewbeckme...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i
 just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50
 tires everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever
 brakes but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off.

 riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video
 shows a guy doing it
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)
 here is the description and pics of it opened up
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm

 in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem possible
 to slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack to get the
 cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes are super
 wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from the rim.
 adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work either.

 so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid deflating
 or loosening the other side of the cable hanger and then readjusting the
 brakes all over again. i couldve done that with the old brakes.

 many thanks

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[RBW] PSA: Are you missing a large yellow Albatrossed A. Homer Hilsen ?

[Aaron Young]

Welp, looks like I'm going to have to start rockin more stuff. Ah, forget
it. I'll be honest - deep down I'm just an Un-Rocker.

-Aaron Un-Rockin' 4 Life Young
The Dalles, OR

On Tuesday, December 16, 2014, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com
javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','tapebu...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 Turns out this really is Emil, former Riv Employee, actually selling his
 personal bike, legitimately.  It's a good deal, snap it up if you want a
 56cm 650B hilsen that happens to be running 700c wheels and short reach
 brakes.

 On Monday, December 15, 2014 2:20:03 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 A bunch of circumstantial evidence and my Spidey Sense tells me this
 Large Albatrossed Custom Painted A Homer Hilsen is not being sold by the
 original owner:

 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/4802051500.html


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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: Are you missing a large yellow Albatrossed A. Homer Hilsen ?

[Aaron Young]

Weird, the derailleur pictures are on a red bike; not a School Bus Yellow
one.  But I think the most glaring thing (at least if it were on this list,
which it's not) is the term rocking.  : )

Aaron Rocking some bitchin' barend shifters Young
The Dalles, OR

On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 4:17 PM, Doug Williams salg...@minbaritm.com
wrote:

 Yes, looks fishy to me. I just want to thank Bill and all the other people
 who look after us all by checking these online sales.

 Doug Williams

 On Monday, December 15, 2014 2:20:03 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 A bunch of circumstantial evidence and my Spidey Sense tells me this
 Large Albatrossed Custom Painted A Homer Hilsen is not being sold by the
 original owner:

 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/4802051500.html


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Re: [RBW] PSA: Are you missing a large yellow Albatrossed A. Homer Hilsen ?

[Aaron Young]

That link goes to Jim E.  He's on this list, no?

-Aaron



On Monday, December 15, 2014, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Appears to be this bike (?)
 Not sure who it belongs to.

 Yellow AHH
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/7495148306/in/photolist-cqjAsW-74wZZm-4fg1Su-dJhztj-am8fhh-9W3mM3-9BamEh-dJho1G-bmbL6N-bkjVXE-dJhno5-btxqnc-dJhqeJ-6Eo1vD-66TwfG-718htR-6mYqU3-6uYkhC-4zp4Dp-esyYHs-6DWNH4-deyVBu-6sT8iE-8DMtRN-63vehW-am8k4C-7Yo57R-5wQVWx-8G8857-6Yzqwe-dJhwRw-8kmqF2-6h5CUY-578zWL-cQeZfC-aVNceX-hK67e-bstmaR-578A9j-7SAocg-7SDLqY-7VZNdR-6RTJb2-dUasUR-bmqMju-a3tZom-4x5JKP-jjjTVS-bonho9-bqv2hz

 KJ


 On Monday, December 15, 2014 5:20:03 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 A bunch of circumstantial evidence and my Spidey Sense tells me this
 Large Albatrossed Custom Painted A Homer Hilsen is not being sold by the
 original owner:

 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/4802051500.html


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Re: [RBW] Re: New Cheviot

[Aaron Young]

Zowie! Looks super good.  Love that green.  Congrats.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 8:47 PM, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 VERY NICE!


 *Chevi - Like a Riv...(Bob Seeger playing in the background...) *

 On Friday, December 12, 2014 8:29:08 PM UTC-5, Kellie Stapleton wrote:

 My new luscious green Cheviot I built up about 2 weeks ago!


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k4qd53iE85s/VIuVx3NKPlI/AOE/nDEePkttHKk/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1608.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mVMkj2JjiM8/VIuV1HJQyvI/AOM/YXRaWUPX03c/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1614.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FNVHczYl7WU/VIuV5P_80eI/AOU/EGBb89BJ3-A/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1619.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ezmaQIkeaKI/VIuV8zC9IQI/AOc/iuVU0kfIrRE/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1620.jpg


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WXvW45uwk18/VIuWADyVV3I/AOk/wqpmMZsJmew/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1621.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m5pSv2neeCY/VIuWDkhe7aI/AOs/4dNZOA8MGFc/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1623.jpg


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mj3yPTGctPw/VIuVsO_YSQI/AN8/YWH8KbwWCpQ/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1602.jpg


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-F8gUXYXlIqk/VIuVnVcZQ-I/AN0/8zD0Zn1B0PA/s1600/November%2B27%2C%2B2014_untitled_1597.jpg

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Re: [RBW] Re: Super-fun Riv-Video and slick Saddlesack upgrade

[Aaron Young]

Seconds don't matter to me - I'm an Un-Racer. :)  But a clever bag hack?
I'm into that.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sat, Dec 13, 2014 at 12:12 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 The video makes it clear, you will get out of camp several whole seconds
 faster with this setup.  SECONDS, man!  Imagine what you could do with that
 time

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Re: [RBW] Super-fun Riv-Video and slick Saddlesack upgrade

[Aaron Young]

Good call on the anti-sway idea.  I thread an Irish strap through the
bottom of my Large Saddlesack to secure it to the rack , but it's finicky.
I like this idea better. Think I'll try it.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR



On Saturday, December 13, 2014, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net
wrote:


 It also adds some hooks to hold the big bag to the rack. The large
 Sackville has no attachment to the seatpost. Security and anti-sway
 additions to it are always a good thing. There are loops to use on the
 underside of the bag, but I like this hook idea to add security in a way
 that's much easier to get to.


 On Dec 13, 2014, at 12:16 PM, Aaron Young wrote:

 Seconds don't matter to me - I'm an Un-Racer. :)  But a clever bag hack?
 I'm into that.

 -Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

 On Sat, Dec 13, 2014 at 12:12 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','tapebu...@gmail.com'); wrote:

 The video makes it clear, you will get out of camp several whole seconds
 faster with this setup.  SECONDS, man!  Imagine what you could do with that
 time

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 - 700x55





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Re: [RBW] Re: knicker socks

[Aaron Young]

Who needs knicker socks when you can just grow out your leg hairs real nice
and thick? :)

Jokes aside, I bought several pairs of over the calf merino socks from
Lands End which have been great. I've been checking their site but can't
find them this year. Too bad, because they are my go to daily wear socks.

Good luck,
Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR


On Tue, Dec 9, 2014 at 08:14 Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 turns out not to be a waste, they have falke airport merino wool in
 women's sizes and colors for the same good price


 On Tuesday, December 9, 2014 9:14:57 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:

 ok - interesting they turned up on a merino search.  I have falke airport
 model and dig them

 On Monday, December 8, 2014 10:27:51 PM UTC-6, Shawn Granton wrote:



 On Monday, December 8, 2014 1:29:54 PM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 people who have asked about merino wool socks to wear with their
 knickers, sierratradingpost has Falke Tiago in stock.  With today's coupon
 code, they're $14.  CPR65516


 ...except that the Falke Tiago are 98% cotton, with 2% spandex.

 Sierra Trading Post usually has a good selection of wool/merino tall
 socks. Many of them snowboard socks, so they can be on the warm side.
 Filter the selection by over the calf to see the tall sock selection.

 -Shawn

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa sneak peek

[Aaron Young]

Did I get that right?  the Appaloosa is planned to be a canti-Sam with more
clearance and longer chainstays?  Or in other words the bike I've been
dreaming of since before buying my first gen green canti-Sam which has been
fantastic???

Please let it be so.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 9:48 AM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I approve of the fork crown.  Enthusiastically


 On Saturday, November 22, 2014 9:17:46 AM UTC-8, Grant Petersen wrote:

 The long mystery bikes (we sold ten) of a few years ago got me/us going
 on LW (long wheelbase) bikes. The ride is really good, but they don't fit
 in boxes well, for shipping. The dreamy ride of those bikes lead to longer
 chainstays on other bikes, and ultimately (well, maybe not ULTIMATELY) we
 got our own long chainstays, made to spec, and now we have more options for
 other bikes. So...liking the long CS and the LW bikes, in general.

 In the trade magazine yesterday I read a guy from SRAM likes 27.5 mtn
 bikes because the smaller than 29er wheel allows shorter chainstays.
 Missing the point.

 When the Mystery bike was going to go into production, it was going to be
 called the Appaloosa, a name suggested by Finn Taylor. I love the name and
 I love horses, although I've ridden one only once and it was scary. But
 Appaloosas are special horses---I guess all horses are, but I like the
 Indian connection to them, and the spots, and the name itself seems
 stretched out, so fit the bike.

 Then I/andwe-all-here thought that as good as the bike is, we'd never
 sell a hundred of them, and that's our minimum for a production run (and
 generally our maximum, as dictated by cash flow and risk and space to put
 'em and dread of nervousness...). But in the meantime we had an Appaloosa
 headbadge made, and it's really nice, too. So we had badges and no bike and
 a newfound fondness for long chainstays.

 Then somebody here broght up the idea of a canti-Sam, kind of like the
 canti-Romulus man of you know. The Sam is kind of perfect as it is, but
 cantilvers never wreck a bike and they have a place for sure, so we shifted
 that way. Then the cantilevers lead to why not a hair more clearance and
 nudge it toward the Atlantis? And then the long CS came into it all, and so
 what for a couple of days was going to be a Canti-Sam turned into a long WB
 canti-Sam, but at that point it's a different bike. (The canti-romulus was
 exactly a romulus with cantilevers.)

 We added 5mm to the fork length and upped the wall thickness of the  top
 of the fork blades from 1.0mm to 1.1mm, which is half btw the Sam and the
 Atlantis... and then went for Appaloosa, which allowed us to use the head
 badge (we have 120 of them, or something.)

 But developing means at least one round of samples, and reserving
 production time at the shop, and then it also would have meant temporarily
 kicking out the Sam, which---how can we do that to a bike so good, and then
 also risk not having any bikes to sell in the Spring, something we can't
 afford, that would truly be a disaster. I think I said this on the Blug.

 The Clem will have the new wide Hunqa fork crown--flat and normal for us.
 That bike is also on hold, same reasons. Bill, you can come by and ride the
 bikes--anybody can. Call to make sure it's there, because sometimes it's
 not.

 The graphic above the plate of food in the blug is something else for
 another bike that will likely happen in mid-2016. If plans change or I get
 too impatient.

 On Friday, November 21, 2014 3:01:58 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 It looks like the new Hub-Area Rack is available, now with a hoop.  Not
 only that, it appears to be mounted to the front of a Joe Appaloosa.  You
 can see the rings and the tig welds at the headtube.

 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/rmf2b.htm

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Re: [RBW] Ban Homer ills

[Aaron Young]

I got that one, too.  But I have another one I will use.  This is fun, even
if you don't send a postcard.

Free hint: make sure your M isn't upside down.  You might get some great
words, but there's no W in Sam Hillborne. :)

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 9:55 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Too bad I can't get a postcard to the Crick by the 29th!!!

 This is the best one. Someone use it quick!

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Re: [RBW] Ban Homer ills

[Aaron Young]

Whoops.  I was wrong.  I didn't get that one. I had a close variant.  Best
to be honest.

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 11:56 AM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:

 I got that one, too.  But I have another one I will use.  This is fun,
 even if you don't send a postcard.

 Free hint: make sure your M isn't upside down.  You might get some great
 words, but there's no W in Sam Hillborne. :)

 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

 On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 9:55 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Too bad I can't get a postcard to the Crick by the 29th!!!

 This is the best one. Someone use it quick!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa sneak peek

[Aaron Young]

Well, Keith if you are thinking like me then you just might be crazy after
all. :)

I just bought an Atlantis because I wanted something that could handle
puffier tires than my current Sam. (Btw, I think you are right - originally
there were some canti Sams, but later versions have moved away from that.)
 So having just bought another Riv I don't mind these bikes being away off
yet, but they sure sound near perfect to me.  At least the long wait will
give me some time to adjust my finances...

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 3:32 PM, iamkeith keithhar...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks, Aaron, for helping me confirm that I'm not crazy.   I was just
 saying to myself  Wait...  don't the Sams *already* have cantis?!I
 guess that had changed at some point along the line.  I hadn't been paying
 attention only because this model has too much overlap with the ones I
 already own.

 But now  I'm with you!  This certainly sounds like a winner.  What's
 really interesting is that I/we might suddenly have to chose between *TWO* 
 big-clearance
 700c / long-chainstay options, where I'd had *no* options thus far?!!
 Assuming and hoping, that is, that they are offered in those in-between or
 missing sizes that are excluded from the Atlantis and Hunquapillar
 lineups.   (At 6'-2 and 87cm pbh, I KNOW I can't be the only one in this
 boat.)

 I'm also hoping these projects don't take *too* long, though.  I was
 raring to go with the 59cm Clem, thinking it was just a couple of months
 out.   Kind of disappointed that it isn't, but I understand the reasoning.
 I had been holding off on doing a re-vitalization/rebuild of my
 Quickbeam to make sure I had funds available, but I guess I'll commit to
 that project in the meantime.  Nice first-world luxury problem to have, I
 guess.



 On Saturday, November 22, 2014 12:53:20 PM UTC-7, AaronY wrote:

 Did I get that right?  the Appaloosa is planned to be a canti-Sam with
 more clearance and longer chainstays?  Or in other words the bike I've been
 dreaming of since before buying my first gen green canti-Sam which has been
 fantastic???

 Please let it be so.

 -Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Chromo Bosco - 58cm

[Aaron Young]

Hi Dave, I sent you a private message - not sure if you got it.  In any
case, yes, I'm interested.  Send me some details if you don't mind.

Thanks,
Aaron

On Tuesday, November 18, 2014, Dave davele...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've got a brand new one in my garage I can measure for you, but I'm
 pretty certain it's a 58.  Interested?

 On Monday, November 17, 2014 6:16:58 PM UTC-8, AaronY wrote:

 Make that 55cm.

 On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 6:09 PM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm still looking for the big daddy Bull Moose Bosco, but if someone has
 a chromo-bosco that is 58cm wide I'd be interested in that as well.

 Thanks,
 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR


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Re: [RBW] Shoe Recommendations for VP Thin Gripsters (or Grip Kings)

[Aaron Young]

Actually I think the Portland Kids have only one opinion and it's chukka.
Good to hear other opinions and options exist though.  :)

Aaron only a little embarrassed to admit I ride in chukkas Young
The Dalles, OR

On Monday, November 17, 2014, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 the portland kids have a few opinions about footwear




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Re: [RBW] WTB: BOSCO BULLMOOOOSE!

[Aaron Young]

Thanks, David.  I'll look into it.

Thanks,
Aaron

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 2:48 PM, David Banzer daban...@gmail.com wrote:

 Aaron,
 I don't have any to sell, but do have a suggestion if you can't track any
 down in time.
 I'd suggest using the Wald 867 as a placeholder.
 The grip section is short, but a couple wine corks in the ends helped me
 and allowed cork grips to be used without trimming them down, with just
 brake levers. Thumb shifters might fit if run at an angle.
 David
 Chicago

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[RBW] WTB: Chromo Bosco - 58cm

[Aaron Young]

I'm still looking for the big daddy Bull Moose Bosco, but if someone has a
chromo-bosco that is 58cm wide I'd be interested in that as well.

Thanks,
Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Chromo Bosco - 58cm

[Aaron Young]

Make that 55cm.

On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 6:09 PM, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm still looking for the big daddy Bull Moose Bosco, but if someone has a
 chromo-bosco that is 58cm wide I'd be interested in that as well.

 Thanks,
 Aaron Young
 The Dalles, OR


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Re: [RBW] Sam Hillborne, Oregon Outback, Off-roading and the ?: 2 bikes or 2 sets of wheels?

[Aaron Young]

I've been riding an OG green Sam H. with Hetres on all sorts of stuff
including single track (unloaded) with sharp rocks and have had no problems
off road.  With Jan's recent showing on the OO I would be fine taking it as
is on the OO.  However, I would consider packing light as that's what Jan
did.  Also, I wouldn't be opposed to putting a stouter tire on.

If your fit is comfortable on your Sam H. and you really like riding it, I
would recommend that over getting a different bike that you may or may not
like as much.  Especially for a long ride where comfort is key.

As far as studded tires, I rode year round for 4 years in Rochester, NY
which has much more snow the E. Washington and in the winter I never used
studded tires.  My wheels were 27 so I put some small-studded cyclocross
tires on for winter time (I searched for, but did not find studded tires in
that size) and unless there was a literal sheet of ice it was just fine.
Even with studs you aren't guaranteed not crashing on ice.  The key is ride
slow and be careful.  I do admit I fell twice during those 4 years, but
never was injured.  Lucky, I guess.

Those Cazadero's look awesome though.  I may have to check them out.
Thanks, Chris.  Might be good for snow, too.  Sorry, I don't have other
tire recommendations.  Good luck! Hope to see you on the Outback next year
(I hope to go).

-Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sun, Nov 16, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 Interesting: I figured a tire like the new Cazadero would be just about
 perfect for most of the outback. I guess you'd need to walk a little but I
 don't figure that's too bad.

 Of course I have a 650b x 55 truck so...

 On Sun, Nov 16, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:

 So I currently have my Sam Hillborne as my only bike, though I was
 considering adding a front suspension/disc-brake mountain bike to the
 stable. There's a deal for a Jamis 650B dragon pro on the interwebs now for
 $1400, but I'm thinking I could rather add a second set of very nice wheels
 with fatter tires instead. My main reason to do this is so that first of
 all, I can have a set of slicks and a set of studded tires in the winter,
 as I live in a very icy/snowy area and am bummed out by having just studded
 tank tires to ride in winter. Beyond that, I want to have a set of wheels
 with a 55mm-ish tire that can handle most gravel/firetrail/light
 singletrack in a ride like the Oregon Outback, as I am hoping to actually
 do that ride this summer. It would also just be nice to have this set of
 wheels that can handle more aggressive off-road riding to go explore
 different areas where I'm at (Eastern Washington).

 So, I guess the question I pose to the group is: better to have a second,
 cheap-ish mountain bike or a second set of really nice wheels to maximize
 the All-Rounderness of a Hillborne? I've been thinking also about Jan
 Heine's opinion that a rigid all-road bike with fat tires is the Porsche
 911 of a gravel-orientated ride, and I want to stick with that plan. Also,
 what are some ideas about the best tire model to do this kind of riding? I
 think that 50-54mm with a moderately aggressive tread would be perfect, but
 I'm wondering if there is something better than the Smart Sam?

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Re: [RBW] Flats and Hetres

[Aaron Young]

Jan,

Do you still use tire sweeper contraptions?

Thanks,
Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sun, Nov 16, 2014 at 11:06 AM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 I agree with you, with one caveat: Width and tire pressure make a huge
 difference. If you are comparing two 32 mm tires, the supple, light one
 will get more flats. But if you are comparing a puncture-resistant 32 mm
 tire with a supple, light 42 mm tire, the 42 mm tire probably will get
 fewer flats.

 For me, the key to riding supple tires with almost zero flats has been
 wide tires, which I run at 38-45 psi.

 Jan Heine
 Compass Bicycles Ltd.
 www.compasscycle.com

 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

 On Saturday, November 15, 2014 10:28:17 AM UTC-8, Tim McNamara wrote:

 The simple physics is that light, supple tires with thin rubber are going
 to be punctured more easily than tires with thicker rubber, heavier walls,
 puncture strips, etc.

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[RBW] Oregon Outback Rollcall

[Aaron Young]

I'm starting to think serious about it as well.  Probably will take 4-5
days, too.

Btw, thanks Mike for the info/opinions about Hetres on the OO last time.
That's useful.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sunday, November 16, 2014, Mike Schiller mikeybi...@rocketmail.com
javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','mikeybi...@rocketmail.com'); wrote:

 I'm hoping to be there.  Probably take 4-5 days.  I really want to go at a
 different time from the dog-n-pony show if possible.

 ~mike
 Carlsbad



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