Re: [RBW] Re: 34 T cassette deraailleur clearance

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, April 14, 2024 at 6:56:15 PM UTC-7 Bernard Duhon wrote:

Thanks,  but my fancy campy rd has no ‘B” screw.


Actually, your fancy 10-speed Chorus rear derailleur does. It's just not in 
the same location as the Shimano/SRAM ones. The Campagnolo chain tension 
adjustment screw is actually on the cage itself:

(image taken from http://www.raltech.co.uk/Prod_96-Inst-RMC-Campag.html)

Here's a video  
explaining 
how to do the adjustment, but other than the location of the screw, the 
concept is the same other than any other modern derailleur.

 

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[RBW] Re: PSA: REI "Microlite" insulated stainless steel water bottles with full cover over spout

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, February 23, 2024 at 8:04:38 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:


BTW, if anyone knows where to find regular uninsulated plastic waterbottles 
with the full-cover flip-up lid, please let me know. They used to be quite 
common but I've not been able to find any recently and I'm down to my last 
one. I use these in warmer weather.


Elite makes these in 950mL, 750mL and 550mL 
variants: 
https://www.lafobikes.com/products/elite-fly-mtb-black-water-bottle-options

These bottles have super thin walls that feel a little like disposable 
water bottles and not at all like normal water bottles one can get from 
bike shops. I have them but not long enough to assess overall durability.

Elite also offers an insulated version, but I don't have any experience 
with that: 
https://www.lafobikes.com/products/elite-ice-fly-water-bottle-500ml-various-colors

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[RBW] Re: Randonneuring Bike

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

The best Rivendell for brevets is obviously a custom Rivendell designed for 
brevets. I understand the waiting list isn't crazy long. :)

I've done a few 200k and populaires, and had taken everything from my 
custom Rivendell that was designed for brevets, to my commuter Toyo 
Atlantis complete with front and rear racks, fenders, dynamo lighting and 
brevet-approved boxy front bag. I even rode a Jan Heine-archetype Boulder 
Cycles bike with "skinny tubing" to see if a planing frame with low trail 
geometry is the bee's knees. It's all doable, as long as you have the 
mental fortitude, physical fitness, and correct "comfort" bike fit. The 
speeds *will* be different, but randonneuring is never about all-out speed; 
randonneuring is about finishing within the time limit, having fun, and 
perhaps having a bit of self-discovery and introspection.

As others have pointed out, remaining comfortable (particularly with the 
contact points) and having a reliable bike are two critical factors that a 
bike can make. I'll also add that one shouldn't skimp on tires, so that 
eye-watering  spent on Rene Herse or other fast-rolling supple tires 
will seem good value when you're wondering if you can make that last 20%.

Good luck!

On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 1:52:59 PM UTC-7 Dick Combs wrote:

> Looking for opinions/thoughts on the best Riv for Brevets, 200-400K rides. 
> Looking for current models as well as older models. Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Show Me Your Atlantis!

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, October 10, 2021 at 10:42:01 PM UTC-7 Hugh Smitham wrote:

>
> I guess that's you name? What a well thought out build. I absolutely love 
> that 1st gen XTR drive. Pretty sweet older hubs the polished silver looks 
> so good. I like the be seen friction (I presume) dyno rear light. I don't 
> like dyno wiring running to the rear just ugly and a pain. I had a campee 
> front rack like that but it doesn't play well with v-brakes so it was a no 
> go.
>

Hugh, that Magnic rear dynamo light is contactless 
. You have to run it 
about as close as your brake pads, so good wheel trueness is needed to make 
it work.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto 34f front rack

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Wow! That's a silly price considering the supply chain jam.

On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 4:11:15 AM UTC-7 jeffbog...@hotmail.com wrote:

> Bump and price drop to $95
>
> On Thursday, 15 July 2021 at 19:54:17 UTC-5 jeffbog...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>> Asking $125. Please send PM with zip code for interest and I'll work out 
>> shipping options.
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rapid rise polarizing

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Monday, July 12, 2021 at 10:08:30 PM UTC-7 Sam Perez wrote:

> Why is there so little info on rapid rise RD and why is it so polarizing. 
> Sources include bike snob grants blog and random internet sources. 
> Takeaways were finicky and needing frequent adjustment but also great 
> concept and easy down shifting. Any experience thoughts insights?
>

I feel a bit like an expert on this topic, as most of my Shimano-equipped 
bikes have rapid-rise, aka lo-normal rear derailleurs, and I've been using 
this type of rear derailleur since its introduction as the XTR RD-M953 rear 
derailleur in…a long time ago. I'm committed enough in this particular way 
of shifting that I have a stash of RD-M960 rapid-rise derailleur spares.

To understand rapid-rise, one has to go back to when mountain biking was in 
its toddler years. That was in the early-to-mid 90s, around when Rivendell 
was born. Back then, to reduce the force required at the shifter (for both 
Rapid Fire and grip shift), derailleur return springs got progressively 
weaker. It got to the point when rear derailleurs would have trouble 
shifting into the tallest gear (smallest cog) when it was only moderately 
dirty. Then came the "fixes" – Grip Shift bass worms 
,
 
stronger aftermarket return springs that were near impossible to install, 
and other interesting knick-knacks that were usually CNCed and anodized. 

Of course, an inability to shift into the tallest gear was bad for racing, 
so Shimano came up with the rapid-rise design to ensure that fingers forced 
the shift into the tallest gears, and spring tension shifted the chain onto 
the lowest gears. It worked very well, actually, as coincidentally 
downshifting works better with more finesse than upshifting, and the 
constant spring tension suited downshifting better than a panicky finger 
(as the cyclist realized too late that the legs+lungs were not nearly as 
strong as expected). The rumors about rapid-rise derailleurs being finicky 
is untrue, based on my use of many rapid-rise derailleurs from LX to XTR 
(but mostly XTR, so I may be biased). Neither were these more prone to 
failure or getting caught on trail debris, simply because they are 
essentially identical to derailleurs of the same era save for how their 
return springs attach. I'll admit that my fave, the RD-M960 does not come 
with a built-in cable adjuster, so you'll need that function at the shifter 
pod, or you'll need to install an inline adjuster; no biggie though.

All was not well unfortunately, because as good as rapid-rise performed, it 
also went against years of muscle memory of most cyclists. Soon, there were 
threats and riots, and Shimano was forced to switch back to high-normal, to 
preserve their domination of the mountain bike component market share. As I 
stated earlier, I run mostly rapid-rise on my Shimano equipped bikes, but I 
do have a few exceptions; for example, the M900 1st gen XTR gruppo on my 
Atlantis is obviously not rapid-rise. So there are occasions when I would 
miss a shift because I wasn't paying enough attention to which bike I'm on; 
but honestly, 5 minutes into it and I'm back to thinking about needing a 
higher or lower gear, rather than whether I should move the shift lever 
this way or that. It's not that big of a deal, for me at least.

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[RBW] Re: Comebacks for when people think your bikes cost too much

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, June 27, 2021 at 8:12:57 PM UTC-7 Kushan wrote:

> So that got me thinking, I can't be the only one who has experienced this. 
> What are some other similar stories? More importantly, what do you say to a 
> well-meaning loved one when they ask things like "$3500 for a bike?" and 
> "but isn't your current bike orange too?"
>

I'm probably pre-conditioned and biased, but $3.5k seems like a good deal 
for a nice complete bike like an Appaloosa. WorldTour road bikes are $8k 
and up (>$12k for a few 
, 
*excluding* fancy wheels), and World Cup mountain bikes are similarly priced 
. Looking 
at the other end of the spectrum, the cheap (and I don't mean inexpensive) 
bike-shaped objects sold at Target and Walmart are just wasteful 
expenditures of natural resources that are analogous to Harbor Freight and 
Old Navy stuff – good enough in a pinch, but wouldn't want to use them 
long-term.

Looking at the items themselves, bicycles are useful devices whereas 
jewelry is mostly for show. In addition, a bicycle like an Appaloosa, if 
well cared for and properly maintained, will likely last for decades. 
Amortized over such a long period, even including replacing consumables, 
$3.5k is an absolutely steal. And we haven't gone into the physical and 
mental healthful aspects that riding a bicycle can bring, nor the fact that 
if you use a bicycle for short trips, you're effectively extending the 
useful life of your car and helping keep climate change at bay.

Think of bicycles as rideable art that can just about save the world — 
Grant Petersen

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[RBW] Re: Front derailers that won't friction shift

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, June 1, 2021 at 4:08:01 AM UTC-7 ascpgh wrote:

> …
> I actually had a guy (on a CFRP bike obviously with integrated shifters 
> and under 30 spokes total holding his 6" section rims to his hubs) look at 
> my bike with bar end shifters and proclaim them unsafe and that ride rules 
> should prevent such dangerous things from being operated amongst all the 
> "safe" riders and their equipment. "He has to move his hands away from the 
> brakes to change gears". No shift, Sherlock.
>

Wow! Wait until he gets a look at my Atlantis. Not only do I have to move 
my hands way, *way* over to the downtube to manipulate the shift levers, I 
also don't have any retention devices on my pedals and shoes! OMG! And my 
saddle…it's shiny leather! How do I do it? Well, at least I compromised 
with index shifters (switchable to friction).


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[RBW] Re: Front derailers that won't friction shift

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

You guys are overthinking the suicide rod shifter for front derailleurs. 
Just go 1X! :)

On Sunday, May 30, 2021 at 2:08:11 PM UTC-7 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> "(P)ulled enough cable" - you're all overthinking this. 
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog/no-10-april-28-or-so-rughut
>
> Not that I think this is going to happen, but I feel I must note that GP 
> and I have been discussing rod-lever (AKA "suicide") front derailleurs for 
> several months, ever since I raised the subject with him at RivHQ and he 
> told me that he'd sent the 50s Huret one posted in the Blahg to some dude 
> in Australia for possible cloning. It came back assembled in the wrong 
> order, and no longer worked. I told him that I had one (currently installed 
> on an early 50s French racer), and took it home to reassemble it correctly.
>
> Aside from the economic practicalities of the expense of tooling, Grant's 
> theory seems to be that the big problem with lever derailleurs is the 
> "suicide" branding. He also complained again about the lower toothcount 
> limitations of the cage, until I demonstrated to him that the flat mounting 
> piece attaching the rod to the frame clamp (visible only in the first 
> take-apart photo) allows the cage to pivot the angle to reach smaller 
> chainrings (Huret's 1956 catalog: "Front derailleurs, cable control or 
> rigid control, are used for competition and touring and allow the use of 
> double chainrings."). My bigger issue is that the levers aren't long enough 
> to reach on bigger frames, but Simplex had a competing rod-lever shifter 
> called the Randonneur whose lever arm was detachable, so you could at least 
> theoretically switch to a longer arm.
>
> Grant's further theorized that if you changed the angle of the track on 
> the central rod, you could get a longer travel range with the same amount 
> of lever movement. Maybe!
>
> I'm just saying. The amount of cable pull is only a problem if there's a 
> cable. There are other ways of addressing the issue.
>
> Peter "let's drag everybody back to the early 50s kicking and screaming; 
> RH is about to release their Nivex RD clone" Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
> On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 12:28:28 PM UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:
>
>> Neat. 
>>
>> But Benz,
>>   
>> How does the stop help? By the time the lever reaches the position, 
>> either it has pulled enough cable for the desired shift or not. Just 
>> because I stop it doesn't mean I've achieved my shift. I write this being 
>> well sure you are right and I am missing something.
>>
>> 180 degrees shouldn't affect the home position, right, because where the 
>> lever centers is separate from how much throw it needs to shift through the 
>> whole casette, or no? Ah, but the stop you linked to sets the home position?
>> But/also if you are saying 120 degrees is what you find comfortable, then 
>> I get that. Although I am confused as to why it is desirable to shift both 
>> downtube levers with the same hand. Ah, I get it; its because I'm holding 
>> my burrito in my other hand :-D
>>
>> The 120 degrees calls to mind a hack from someone on this list to and a 
>> strip of brass on the shifter, thereby increasing its diameter and cable 
>> pull (pull ratio = linear cable moved per degrees moved of the lever, no?). 
>> I think I prefer more throw/degrees, bc it means wider degree ranges for 
>> each cog/shift/sweetspot. But the idea is a good one. If the "spool" the 
>> cable wraps onto could be adjustable or swappable, and there were no stops 
>> or adjustable stops, then we could set our desired pull/-ratio and total 
>> degree throw, no? Forget about indexing though I assume. 
>>
>> Anyways, I'm complicating things. But nice to discuss and understand and 
>> fiddle.
>>
>> Thanks
>> -Matthew
>> San Diego
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 10:07:24 AM UTC-7 Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 8:33:18 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>>>
>>>> Couple things in Will's post that stood out for me:
>>>>
>>>> 1. Will said he wasn't happy with the way a Claris front derailer 
>>>> friction shifted. I've used the Claris in double and triple 
>>>> configurations, 
>>>> friction shifted (bar ends), 8 speed without any problems. Maybe I missing 
>>>> out on something by not using a different der? I have a Suntour ARX on the 
>>>> way so. . .
>>>>
>>>
>>> Do you have the same version? Shimano reuses the same model name

[RBW] Re: Front derailers that won't friction shift

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Matthew, the stop is to prevent the lever from running parallel to the 
downtube in its “released” position, meaning it has already reeled *out* 
all the cable. Not having the levers parallel to the downtube means one can 
shift both levers with one hand, which is faster and more convenient. This 
is especially nice if one needs to shift the front up, and the rear down, 
to maintain the same ratio, when switching chainrings; certainly, one 
wouldn’t want too much lag between the front and rear shifts.

I understand your desire for more angle per shift, to provide more 
granularity and buffer space between each gear. However, that angle per 
shift is entirely decided by how far you can accept your shift lever to 
rotate, and the number of speeds you’re covering. Holding those two 
constant, you merely adjust the lever cable spool diameter and the rear 
derailleur’s geometry to match. Whatever it is, I would say practically, I 
wouldn’t want the lever to move beyond 180 degrees as it appears to me like 
an ergo disaster. So if your lever and derailleur are matched, you’ll have 
18 degrees per shift for a Bob-max 10-speed cassette. That’s quite a nice 
cushy buffer if you ask me.

On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 12:28:28 PM UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:

> Neat. 
>
> But Benz,
>   
> How does the stop help? By the time the lever reaches the position, either 
> it has pulled enough cable for the desired shift or not. Just because I 
> stop it doesn't mean I've achieved my shift. I write this being well sure 
> you are right and I am missing something.
>
> 180 degrees shouldn't affect the home position, right, because where the 
> lever centers is separate from how much throw it needs to shift through the 
> whole casette, or no? Ah, but the stop you linked to sets the home position?
> But/also if you are saying 120 degrees is what you find comfortable, then 
> I get that. Although I am confused as to why it is desirable to shift both 
> downtube levers with the same hand. Ah, I get it; its because I'm holding 
> my burrito in my other hand :-D
>
> The 120 degrees calls to mind a hack from someone on this list to and a 
> strip of brass on the shifter, thereby increasing its diameter and cable 
> pull (pull ratio = linear cable moved per degrees moved of the lever, no?). 
> I think I prefer more throw/degrees, bc it means wider degree ranges for 
> each cog/shift/sweetspot. But the idea is a good one. If the "spool" the 
> cable wraps onto could be adjustable or swappable, and there were no stops 
> or adjustable stops, then we could set our desired pull/-ratio and total 
> degree throw, no? Forget about indexing though I assume. 
>
> Anyways, I'm complicating things. But nice to discuss and understand and 
> fiddle.
>
> Thanks
> -Matthew
> San Diego
>
>
> On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 10:07:24 AM UTC-7 Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA 
> wrote:
>
>> On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 8:33:18 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>>
>>> Couple things in Will's post that stood out for me:
>>>
>>> 1. Will said he wasn't happy with the way a Claris front derailer 
>>> friction shifted. I've used the Claris in double and triple configurations, 
>>> friction shifted (bar ends), 8 speed without any problems. Maybe I missing 
>>> out on something by not using a different der? I have a Suntour ARX on the 
>>> way so. . .
>>>
>>
>> Do you have the same version? Shimano reuses the same model name to 
>> differentiate their lineup, even if the actual derailleurs themselves have 
>> changed quite a bit throughout the years. For example, the 8-speed XTR from 
>> the 90s is a completely different beast than the Di2 XTR of today.
>>
>> From visually examining the Claris called out in Will's email, it appears 
>> the incompatibility is due to cable pull. A longer arm will require more 
>> cable to move the cage the same distance, all things being equal. This 
>> won't matter at all for dedicated shifters (regardless of whether they're 
>> indexed), but friction shifters are generally designed for compatibility 
>> with older derailleurs, meaning they won't pull as much total cable as is 
>> required for the most current derailleurs.
>>
>> Examples of these are the 11 and 12-speed derailleurs, or SRAM's 1:1 
>> actuation ratio derailleurs. Traditional friction shifters either can't 
>> pull enough, or pull barely enough cable to run the modern rear 
>> derailleurs. The same logic applies to front derailleurs with longer cable 
>> pull requirements.
>>
>>  
>>
>>> 2. Wonder what the forthcoming "good" friction shifting derailers will 
>>> be?
>>>
>>
>> For me, ironically, good fricti

[RBW] Re: Front derailers that won't friction shift

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, May 29, 2021 at 8:33:18 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:

> Couple things in Will's post that stood out for me:
>
> 1. Will said he wasn't happy with the way a Claris front derailer friction 
> shifted. I've used the Claris in double and triple configurations, friction 
> shifted (bar ends), 8 speed without any problems. Maybe I missing out on 
> something by not using a different der? I have a Suntour ARX on the way so. 
> . .
>

Do you have the same version? Shimano reuses the same model name to 
differentiate their lineup, even if the actual derailleurs themselves have 
changed quite a bit throughout the years. For example, the 8-speed XTR from 
the 90s is a completely different beast than the Di2 XTR of today.

>From visually examining the Claris called out in Will's email, it appears 
the incompatibility is due to cable pull. A longer arm will require more 
cable to move the cage the same distance, all things being equal. This 
won't matter at all for dedicated shifters (regardless of whether they're 
indexed), but friction shifters are generally designed for compatibility 
with older derailleurs, meaning they won't pull as much total cable as is 
required for the most current derailleurs.

Examples of these are the 11 and 12-speed derailleurs, or SRAM's 1:1 
actuation ratio derailleurs. Traditional friction shifters either can't 
pull enough, or pull barely enough cable to run the modern rear 
derailleurs. The same logic applies to front derailleurs with longer cable 
pull requirements.

 

> 2. Wonder what the forthcoming "good" friction shifting derailers will be?
>

For me, ironically, good friction derailleurs will need to be matched to 
the cable pull capacity of the friction shifter. Yes, I understand the 
match doesn't need to be exact, like for indexed shifting; but one still 
needs to get the match close for best effect. For the rear, that means a 
120° swing of the (downtube) friction shift lever should result in a 41mm 
lateral displacement of the guide pulley on the rear derailleur (41mm is 
about the width of a 11-speed cassette). For the front, the same 120° swing 
of the shift lever should result in about a 16mm lateral displacement of 
the front derailleur cage, to accommodate a typical triple crank.

Why limit the effective swing of the friction shifter to 120°, and not, 
let's say 150° or even 180°? Read on.

I want to put in a plug for optionally setting the travel stop of downtube 
shifters about 30° from parallel with the downtube. In other words, I'll 
like the shifter's "home position" to be just slightly raised from being 
parallel with the downtube. Using this design for the left shifter will 
enable easy actuation of both levers with just the right hand for 
right-handed cyclists, and using this design for the right shifter will do 
the same for left-handed cyclists. To enable such a design means ensuring 
the shifter pulls enough cable within a narrow angle of travel, so the 
proposed 120°.

Interestingly, I haven't tried this yet, but it appears that getting a 
second set of downtube stop washer 

 
from Rivbike and using the "opposite" one will allow this 30° offset, so we 
may not even need any extra SKUs.

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[RBW] Re: Beginners SLR camera?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 7:34:40 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, all; I am entirely camera-ignorant, since I gave up 
> photography about age 11 1/2 after starting to experiment with my 
> mother's Brownie at about age 11 1/4. (You can verify this by the 
> quality of my photos onlist.) 
>
> The Olympus OM-1, Canon AE-1, and Pentax K1000 seem to be favorites. 
> All these have built-in light meters, no? And they seem to come up on 
> Amazon for =/< $200. 
>
> Upshot: I can't go wrong with any of these 3? 
>

Patrick,

All the cameras you've listed and others have suggested are all good 
choices. However, there are other equally important considerations, because 
you can't take images with just a camera body alone. You also need lenses, 
and other accessories (e.g., TTL flash). Particularly with lenses, you may 
see one or two particular types that are more prevalent, and cheaper, so 
that would be the other considerations. If you get hooked, there are also 
particular lenses with a distinctive "look"; I mean, there are enthusiasts 
who will pay quite a nice premium for lenses with good "bokeh".

A 50mm/f1.4 is a nice start, but as the photographer progress in skill and 
style, you may need a 105mm/f2.5, or 35mm/f2. Or perhaps a macro for 
extreme closeups, and a PC lens for the folks who like architecture. Again, 
you want to make sure you can find the lens you want at good prices.

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[RBW] Re: Help choosing brake levers for drop bars

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 12:17:18 PM UTC-7 Jeffrey Arita wrote:

>
> Given your choices above, my wife and I use TRP RRLs on the two tandems 
> and a bunch of singles which have drop bars.  Nice ergo feel plus they have 
> the nice brake cable release mechanism - useful for wide-ish tires.
>
> I recently sold a set of Gran Compe 202s on iBobs.  They were ok but we 
> prefer the RRLs.
>

I'll second the TRP RRLs. They feel good on the hoods, and the hood angle 
(and to a certain extent the brake reach) is adjustable via a plastic 
spacer. As Jeff said, the built-in quick release à la Campagnolo is really 
nice. Build quality of the TRPs are top-notch, with fairly tight tolerances 
and no weird sounds when riding over rough chip seal. Finally, they're one 
of the few modern levers that one can get with gum/natural rubber colored 
hoods.

A close second is the Cane Creek SCR-5 levers. They're essentially copies 
of the Campagnolo Gen 2 Ergopower levers (except without the shifting guts, 
obviously), so if you like those, you'll like the SCR-5. The SCR-5 also 
comes in a compact model, aptly named SCR-5C, with shorter reach for riders 
with smaller hands; that variant is quite hard to find. Unfortunately, Cane 
Creek discontinued the gum colored hoods.


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[RBW] Re: Helicopter tape recommendation requested (a specific name or URL)

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Paul, thanks for sharing your cache of information!

I concur that the 3M 8545HS, 7070UV and 7071UV are all the same thing, 
differing only in thickness. I can find the 8mil and 14mil stuff rather 
easily, but I wish I can find the 40mil stuff; Googling "3M 8545HS" didn't 
really produce any hits. The 40mil stuff will be great for protecting the 
chainstay from chain slap, because I found the 14mil stuff barely adequate 
(I ended up wrapping old inner tubes with bum valves around the chainstay).

As far as improving conformability, professional car protective film 
installers need to form the film around tight corners on cars, so they use 
a heat gun/hair dryer to make the film a lot more malleable. AFAIK, there 
isn't really too many such tight corners on bicycles, at least corners that 
warrants protection.

On Thursday, April 1, 2021 at 9:00:28 AM UTC-7 Paul Clifton wrote:

> I've been pretty curious about this topic for a while so I finally did 
> some digging around. Nothing anyone hasn't already said on this and other 
> threads, but I'm adding it just for additional info if anyone is interested.
>
> The basic protective tape seems to be  3M™ Industrial Protective Film 
> 7070UV: 
> https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/d/b40066699/
> There's even a link to a PDF at the bottom of that page that shows a 
> Bicycle Application Concept. It doesn't say anything about removing the 
> adhesive when you take the tape off, but since it is designed for that sort 
> of thing, I doubt it will harm paint.
>
> They also make a thicker version 7071UV, prob for stuff that gets hit 
> harder.
>
> Both 7070 and  7071 are available at McMaster Carr. They may be available 
> cheaper elsewhere but at least McMaster calls out the specific product on 
> the listing: 
> https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-tape/heavy-duty-surface-protection-tape/
>
> Digging into 3M's aerospace category gets to this amazing page about 
> products for helicopter rotor blades: 
> https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/aerospace-us/segment-solutions/rotor-blades/
> The stuff for helicopters is extremely thick and says it offers "limited 
> conformability" 
> https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/?N=5002385+3292668475=rud
>
> I've also seem people recommend low friction protection tape, which is 
> meant for lining chutes in factories and fulfillment centers. It offers 
> impact protection as well: 
> https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-tape/low-friction-uhmw-tape-8/
> It's acrylic, not polyurethane.Maybe I'll get some of the for my 
> daughter's scratched up plastic slide.
>
> But for my bike, I'd probably just go with the 3M 7070UV since it's really 
> designed specifically for protecting paint, but maybe not structural 
> elements, from minor impacts on land vehicles.
>
> I love tape.
>
> BTW - has anyone used the gaffe tape from McMaster? How does it compare to 
> the Gaffe brand gaffe tape? I hate bad tape. 
> https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-tape/matte-duct-tape/
>
> Paul in AR
>
> On Wednesday, March 31, 2021 at 4:38:39 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
>
>> Helicopter tape to put under the brake wire that runs along the bottom of 
>> the top tube, so perhaps 1 1/2 -  2" wide to allow for wire movement and a 
>> not too perfect tape application.  I carry my bike on a hanging bike rack 
>> and currently protect the frame by putting inner tubes between the wire and 
>> frame, but that's becoming annoying.
>>
>> There's so many out there and I'm not sure which will work well and not 
>> effect the paint.  My local auto supply place said they never heard of it.  
>> Neither did the LBS.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Roberta, AHHilsen
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Helicopter tape recommendation requested (a specific name or URL)

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Wednesday, March 31, 2021 at 2:54:09 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Does that stuff really work without messing up the paint? When I clamp a 
> toptube in my work stand I use an old t-shirt wrapped around the tube to 
> keep the brake wire off the paint. Easy on, easy off, doesn't stay on the 
> bike when not needed. 


Helicopter tape is basically a thin and clear polyurethane tape with an 
adhesive backing. Allegedly, it was invented to protect helicopter blades 
from impact damage (presumably smaller objects). For those of us who don't 
see too many helicopters, it is more commonly used as protection on the 
front of (usually expensive) cars to prevent paint chips from stones and 
such. If I have a carbon-fiber mountain bike, I'll probably apply it where 
rock chips are likely to hit, like the underside of the downtube, not to 
protect the paint so much as to prevent impact damage to the carbon fiber.

It'll do fine preventing paint scratches from hanging a bike by the top 
tube, although in my experience, it'll likely bunch up when solidly clamped 
with a workstand (the polyurethane material is malleable after all). The 
adhesive is not strong enough to prevent "creeping" when high forces are 
involved, because 3M paint film is designed to be removed without damaging 
paint, by using a heat gun or hair dryer. The adhesive is good but isn't 
permanent.

Just search for "3M paint protection" or "3M paint film" on eBay. For 
Roberta's use, this may work. 



 

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[RBW] Re: Lil Loafer cover?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hi Joe,

I actually have two of those banana bag covers, and the shape of the covers 
is such that I don't see how they can fit a Lil' Loafer.

I'll actually like to get a handful of Lil' Loafer covers myself, as a few 
of my bikes have the nice plaid ones, and hard as I try, I just can't bring 
myself to accelerate their beausage.

On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 4:08:35 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Hi Ryan,
>
> Keep an eye out for an email with pic if the frickin thing ever sends, it 
> doesn't seem to want to post here or there. I have an unused Riv cover 
> which I think was designed for Banana Bags but should fit Lil Loafers, too. 
>
> On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 10:11:38 AM UTC-8 rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone: Some time back Rivendell made the "Lil Loafer" which I have 
>> in tweed.  I think a rain cover was made for it.  Does anyone have one or 
>> have any ideas for making a cover?  Thanks a lot.
>>
>> Ryan 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 11 speed with Silver DT shifters works great!

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

One should note that Shimano’s 11-speed *MTB* rear derailleurs require more 
cable pull to shift over 11 speeds than Shimano’s own 11-speed *road* rear 
derailleurs, like your Ultegra 6800. The difference is not trivial and 
exceeds 20%. Thus, one needs to qualify one’s statement about whether 
Silver DT shifters pull enough cable, because they may not for the MTB 
Dyna-Sys rear derailleurs that some favor for the larger gear capacity and 
chain wrap.

On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 2:01:43 PM UTC-8 Andrew Turner wrote:

> I'm sure to most, this is a 'no duh' situation but throwing my hat in for 
> the approval vote regardless. If there are any die-hard 9 speed friction 
> fans out there like me, this might be of interest. 
> Before I thought: 
>
> A) the Silver DT shifters don't pull enough cable to fit 11 speed
> B) I'd be spending the majority of the ride feathering the gears 
>
> Wrong and wrong. It works shockingly well, perhaps even better than 8-9 
> speeds perhaps because there's simply less room to mess it up. Now I 
> probably wouldn't enjoy it as much with shifters that didn't utilize the 
> ratcheting system since I can feel how the ratchet sorta auto-corrects the 
> right engagement point when I'm changing gears but that's a topic of 
> personal taste. 
>
> My setup is an Ultegra 6800 long cage rear mech, 11 speed chain, 11-34 105 
> cassette, and a Grand Cru 50.4 46-30 crankset.  
>
> Obviously the downside of all this is cost but if anyone was building up 
> something new and was 11 speed friction curious, give it a shot! 
>

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[RBW] Re: Question about 73mm bottom bracket shells

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

You shouldn't change the spindle length because the spindle length is 
primarily used to determine chainline.

What you should do is to look for a BB spindle length 122mm, but with a 
2.5mm offset*. Then you can use a lipless mounting ring to secure the 
shorter cartridge BB in the wider BB shell. Not all Shimano left side 
mounting rings have lips; some are lipless like the Phil Wood, so don't 
feel like you need to spend as much on a mounting ring as on the entire 
cartridge BB.

BTW, you may or may not run into clearance issues with the crank butting up 
against the BB shell (left) and/or Cartridge BB (right), and you may or may 
not run into the BB shell running out of threads on the left side.

Good luck!

** Assuming 5mm offset is to the right, so (73-68)/2 should be deducted to 
give the same chainline.*
On Sunday, February 7, 2021 at 1:47:23 PM UTC-8 Ray Varella wrote:

> If I have a crank that requires a 122mm spindle with a +5mm offset on a 
> 68mm bottom bracket shell,
> Will a 127mm +5mm offset work with a 68mm cartridge bottom bracket with 
> something like Phil Wood mounting rings?
> Is that clear?
>
> Thank you 
> Ray
>

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[RBW] Re: Crash Inspection Advice

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'm glad you came out more or less OK. It sucks that you need surgery to 
repair your body, and I hope that the injury is at least on a less 
important finger on your non-dominant hand.

As for the bike, I'll just ask for a new bike if yours was in good shape 
before the crash. The frame is probably OK, structurally, but new paint is 
expensive. Also, I would change anything that appears damaged or affected 
by the crash. Yes, even the rotated brake lever, and especially the 
handlebar and maybe even stem. You can't be sure that a whack large enough 
to rotate a brake lever and stem wouldn't cause invisible damage that may 
come back to haunt you later. If the stem was tightened quite a bit, I'll 
even inspect the fork, especially the steerer for any damage. Those rascals 
(or their parents) basically owe you a bike in the exact same state as 
before the incident, without any hidden damage, scratches, chips or dent.

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 9:50:20 PM UTC-8 Litho wrote:

> **Cross-posted from FB Riv Page**
>
> Hello All. Looking for a little expertise / advice on my Riv. I was in a 
> collision on my Appaloosa last week. A group of kids on bikes deliberately 
> rammed into me on a multi-use trail here in Napa. My handlebars took the 
> brunt of the initial impact, but me and the bike went tumbling across the 
> pavement and into the road that parallels the trail. Unfortunately my hand 
> was on the brake lever at the time and was crushed in between. I have 
> surgery this week to repair the fractures and rebuild the joint on my 
> knuckle. 
>
> I'm trying to assess all of the damage for the police report. The front 
> and rear derailers were bent and scraped, the rear derailer hanger is 
> slightly bent, but should be easy to straighten. There are numerous 
> scratches, chips, and a couple of small dents on the frame, but I don't see 
> any visible cracks or deformations anywhere. The brake lever was rotated on 
> the bars but doesn't seem to be broken. The stem and bars were knocked 90 
> degrees in the initial impact but don't have any visible damage.  
>
> Anything you would recommend checking or inspecting? The damage may just 
> be cosmetic, but I don't want to overlook anything. Hopefully, I'll just 
> end up with some glorious beausage and a good story.
>

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis Due date?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, January 31, 2021 at 1:07:29 PM UTC-8 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> I joked with my daughter that it would be handed to me by a very tired 
> employee of the Lithuanian post office, who would have ridden a small 
> donkey all the way from Lithuania. 
>

Don't you mean a mixte with upright handlebars and giant panniers to carry 
the rest of the packages from Lithuanian to California? That would be an 
epic bike tour! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Has anyone ever made a Rivendell custom step-through?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 7:50:25 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> …
> So, what about bike weight? I spent 2020 trying to log 3,000 miles, and 
> nearly all of those miles were on my big, blue Clementine. I bought new 
> wheels and a tubeless tire set up and it noticeably lightened the bike, and 
> it helped with the hills. But even so, I was never fast; I gave up trying 
> to chase roadies up Killer Hill because I never caught them. When my boys 
> were little and we began to bike to their new school (Killer Hill stood 
> between it and us) I got my littler son, a 1st grader, a new bike with 
> gears. A Giant in neon yellow. He was demoralized by that hill every day, 
> while my 4th grade son had no trouble. One day I realized that the 24 inch 
> Specialized was lighter than the 20 inch Giant. Ugh. I had put no thought 
> into the weight of the bike - possibly because I was influenced here. That 
> day, I bought an Islabike and my little boy danced up the hill and beat us 
> all from that day forward. 
>
> When the Platy came, magically, I was quick. I catch and pass men on road 
> bikes all the time now, Bosco bars and all. My bike feels too easy to pedal 
> even in its hardest gear. It’s not a workout for me, even up Killer Hill. 
> It’s easy and it’s fun. …
>

You can't argue against physics. A couple of pound here or there won't 
really make a big difference on most rides, especially if you're just on a 
bike ride. A full water bottle is about 1.5 pounds, for example, and I 
can't usually tell if my two water bottles are full or empty on rides (I 
have to shake them). Thus, your comment about suddenly being able to catch 
and pass men on road bikes because you're on a Platypus can't really be 
supported by physics, if indeed weight is the only differentiator. I also 
suspect you may be severely underestimating the concept of placebos and 
that extra 100 watts a new bike can bring. :)

I'm fortunate enough to have too many bikes, from lightweight, mostly 
carbon+titanium wonders that'll probably float away with a strong breeze, 
to my stout Atlantis that weighs more than my Wilbury (here's the mixte 
reference for relevance!) because it has front-rear racks, full stainless 
fenders, basket, dynamo lights, and a heavy Abus lock on it full-time. 
Anyway, on longish climbs (e.g., Kings Mountain or Old La Honda, which 
averages almost 8% for 3-4 miles), when I'm just tooling along with friends 
and not trying to make PR, I can't tell the difference between my 
lightweight wonder and my moderately heavy 24lb randonneur (Riv custom, 
also with fenders, dynamo light, front rack, etc), based on a clock; that's 
almost a 10 lb "penalty" I can't feel if I'm not actively looking for it. 
Come to think of it, on leisure rides, I've intentionally taken my 
super-duty Atlantis because it can carry all sorts of goodies for the 
post-ride snacking, and I wasn't penalized or regretful of the decision.

What I have found to really impact the "feel" of the bike, in terms of 
responsiveness and subjective "lightness", is the tire. On the same exact 
bikes, having supple, better rolling tires such as the Rene Herse tires can 
make a night-day difference, compared to lesser tires such as the Schwalbe 
Kojak or even the evergreen Pasela. I haven't really measured the objective 
differences with a stopwatch, but I wouldn't ride those tires on fun rides, 
just from the feel alone. In fact, I've gone so far as to switch over all 
my bikes to nice rolling tires, predominantly RH tires, Pari-Motos, Hetre 
Extra Leger, Challenge Paris-Roubaix, and ThunderBurts, much to my wallet's 
"amusement". I've also managed to convince skeptical friends to try, and 
they too found that perhaps buying tires at stupid prices isn't such a 
crazy idea after all.

Another factor I've been trying to reconcile is what Jan Heine refers to as 
"planing". I'm not sure I accept his explanation fully, but I have bikes 
that ride noticeably better than others, and 1. it has almost nothing to do 
with its weight (the aforementioned Riv custom randonneur is fantastically 
"lively"), and 2. it is only somewhat correlated to its expected frame 
flexibility (my flexiest bike isn't the best to ride). Again, no stopwatch 
verification, so I'm taking from subjective feel.

I do understand the need to have a light bike for portage though. A friend 
of small stature often complains about having to lug her bike up stairs, 
but the activity of cycling isn't lugging bicycles up and down stairs (or 
onto or off bike racks).

Anyway, just my $0.02. Try the nicer tires. Maybe you'll beat the men on 
road bikes up Killer Hill just the same. And even expensive Rene Herse 
tires are cheaper than a new custom frame+fork (and if you don't like the 
tires, you can sell it slightly used for not much loss).

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[RBW] Re: Good pedals for both SPD clip-in and street shoe riding?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, January 3, 2021 at 6:48:10 PM UTC-8 J Schwartz wrote:

> Just noticed these browsing on Blue Lug last week
> https://global.bluelug.com/mks-solution-pedal-siver.html
>

That's not any different from Shimano A530.

In my opinion, the problem with these half-fish, half-fowl pedals is that 
they need a functionality to set their default side. A weight of some sort 
so if you won't accidentally be stepping on the clipless side if you're 
wearing sneakers, or the flat side if you're wearing "tap-dancing" shoes. 
Having used A530 on my commuter for a bit, I really don't enjoy flipping 
the flat platform side over, especially when I'm wearing office-appropriate 
shoes or boots.

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[RBW] Re: Quick Small Load Carrying

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I don't like "meandering" loads, so if the bike doesn't have a rack, I'll 
be a mule, with my XL Ortlieb messenger/backpack 
,
 
even though I don't like riding with backpacks much (sweaty back syndrome). 
XL Ortlieb backpacks can swallow quite a bit of stuff, if you take the time 
to pack them. Let's just say I've been occasionally surprised by how heavy 
the backpack turned out after a trip to the grocery store.

On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 7:38:28 AM UTC-8 Paul in Dallas wrote:

> What have you list folks come up with for small load carrying if you don't 
> have rack, basket, bag or panniers on a particular bike your riding at the 
> time?
>
> Perhaps you gave carrying capacity on all your bikes?
>
> Example:
> one or two grocery sacks worth.
>
> If I'm on a bike without rack, basket, etc.
> I've been using the heavier duty cloth grocery bags available at the likes 
> if Trader Joe's,  Whole Food or Natural Grocers.
>
> I find there're easy to double tie and remove from handlebars.
>
> One needs to be careful as to impact on steering.
>
> Balancing out two works fine for me.
>
> Of course I only do this for short trips of 2 to 4 miles or so.
>
> Paul in Dallas 
>
> Out on a trip this Monday morning starting at 32 degrees. 
>
> Up to 34 now.
>
> [image: Image] 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tire rub rehab. Suggestions?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Mask and rattle can it with some primer? You can make interesting shapes 
with the masking and have some fun with it.

On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 7:23:22 PM UTC-8 Justin wrote:

> Sunday I found myself trapped on a 12 mile stretch of sticky trail of 
> gritty mud. Had to stop numerous times to clear my brakes and stays of mud 
> so the wheels would keep turning. Once home a cleaning with the hose 
> revealed four spots on the forks and chain stays taken to bare metal from 
> just the one ride. Now I know what you are thinking but look at the photos 
> included showing plenty of clearance. 
>
> Any suggestions for treating the bare spots? Not at all concerned with 
> cosmetic appearance just want to protect the metal from rust and what not.
>
> thanks for reading!
>
> [image: 50719588973_c17cd2bf59_c[1].jpg]
> [image: 50721552116_e965f95666_c[1].jpg]
> [image: 50720408017_3b8fba3242_c[1].jpg]
> [image: 50720815638_ba714ec029_c[1].jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Replace my Atlantis ?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Replace, or add to?

I have a Toyo Atlantis with 26" wheels, and don't think I'll ever part with 
it. It's too useful, as a Jack-of-all-trades. Fastest? Nope. Lightest? 
Nope. Not even close. Fanciest? Nope. But it's set up with fenders, racks, 
wide gear range, and dynamo lights, and it's as comfy and no-nonsense as 
they come. If I'm not sure know where I'm going, I'll slap on a pannier and 
take the Atlantis.

I've thought about selling my Rivendell All-Rounder (with the 753 tubeset) 
and Boulder All-Road (with "skinny" tubing). I've even thought about 
selling my Colnago Master and Seven Ti Axiom. And I've actually *sold* my 
Surly LHT and Litespeed Blue Ridge. But I've never considered selling my 
Atlantis. In fact, I like it so much I got my son one too.

On Wednesday, December 9, 2020 at 11:53:08 PM UTC-8 Peter Forde wrote:

> [image: 28D2644F-06A5-4181-9EBB-6C351B65BA2B.jpeg]
> I’ve had my 58cm Toyo Atlantis since 2002.
> It has taken me on numerous 1000+ mile tours, 400k brevets and has kept me 
> smiling for many, many miles.
> Workhorse it is, but I am thinking of perhaps a lighter, more subtle 
> frame.  Any ideas or suggestions (Riv or otherwise)?
> P.S.  I do like a front, rack mounted bag but don’t have to go crazy with 
> lower trail and want to keep my 700c wheels.
> Thanks.
> Peter
>

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[RBW] Re: A Bit Irked that Riv Changed the Seatpost Size

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, November 24, 2020 at 7:38:51 PM UTC-8 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
wrote:

> The S83 comes in 26.8, and if you need a better seatpost than that, well 
> then maybe you do, who am I to say. For me, it's as good as good gets, and 
> I've got an 84 to compare it to! (in 27.2, which I use with a shim on my 
> Clem that has a 665.5* seattube)


While what you said about the Nitto S83 is arguably true, the OP was 
lamenting that he couldn't use a suspension seatpost he likes that is only 
available in the much more common 27.2mm size. No S83 is going to replace a 
suspension seatpost if a suspension seatpost is what you want.

Nevertheless, vintage U.S.E. suspension seatposts do occasionally become 
available on eBay. I don't know if those are adequate replacements though.

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[RBW] Re: A Bit Irked that Riv Changed the Seatpost Size

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, November 24, 2020 at 6:01:18 PM UTC-8 christian poppell wrote:

> It would be a seat tube change and not the lug. Many tubes for are butted 
> internally so that lugs will fit multiple tube butt thicknesses. 
>
> 28.6mm x .9mm wall (26.8mm ID) vs .7mm (27.2mm ID). 
>

Does that mean one can ream it out to 27.2mm if one has the proper reamer?

FWIW, 26.8mm isn't that common anymore. I had to find one for a NOS Ritchey 
P-21 frame that a friend gifted me, and it was either some el cheapo thing, 
or pay through the nose for a NOS or like-new seatpost from the 90s. Yes, 
there are Thomsons and Nittos, but the Nittos are usually too short 
(because they're intended for road bikes), and the Thomsons are…well, if 
you have to ask why a Thomson doesn't belong on a Ritchey P-21…

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Re: [RBW] Re: COVID face mask that lets you breathe and doesn't cause glasses to fog?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I’m usually skeptic of simplified news reporting, especially in the 
presumed context of (rightly) trying to convince the general public that 
masks aren’t really an impediment to daily routine activities. Regardless, what 
exertion level did they measure the various oxygen levels at? If one is 
just riding along, unracer-like, enjoying the scenery, and smelling the 
flowers, I can believe that. However, if one is trying for a PR up Hamilton 
or Monte Bello, I’ll need to see the data and experimental setup to be 
convinced. Actually, I should just borrow my wife’s pulse oximeter and 
figure out the effects, if any, of masking , at various exertion levels, 
especially since I’m going exactly nowhere this Thanksgiving.

On Monday, November 23, 2020 at 8:10:10 PM UTC-8 Robert Tilley wrote:

> I just saw a news report that had a study showing that masks don’t have 
> any effect on your oxygen levels. That say they feel like they do but the 
> numbers show you are still getting the same oxygen moving around your body 
> as you would without a mask. 
>
> I have a hard time wearing a mask while riding so I wear one pulled down 
> and “deploy” it when the need arises. My mask of choice is the Wald mask 
> since they fit ok and have some nice bikey patterns.
>
> Robert Tilley
> San Diego, CA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 23, 2020, at 7:52 PM, Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA <
> benzo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The thing with masks is that if they're not a bit constrictive, they 
> probably don't work (except for face shields, but who wants to look like a 
> welder with a transparent shield?). That's the nature of filters. Having 
> said that, there's constrictive, and there's *constrictive*. I should say 
> that none are constrictive to the extent claimed by anti-maskers.
>
>
> I find the least constrictive is one that has the largest surface area and 
> that also does the job. Duh! But *how* do you know if it does the job? 
> Given that masks are at least half a prophylactic against transmission to 
> *others*, an easy way of determining efficacy, without specialized tools, 
> is to try blowing out candles that are within a few inches of your face, 
> with the mask on. If you can blow out said candle, the mask isn't effective 
> enough. Stay away from the N95 masks with one-way valves; sure, they're 
> nice for you, but they do not mitigate the dispersion of droplets to others 
> as you exhale.
>
> Anyway, I find buffs, wool ones, double-layer-up, and merely lightly snug 
> around the mouth+nose instead of tight, to be efficacious and least 
> constrictive. In fact, I use that when cycling in cold weather. With the 
> proper eyewear, I don't experience fogging issues when on the move. In 
> addition, you may also want to look into anti-fog treatments, especially as 
> eyewear will fog up even without masks when one suddenly stops, in between 
> exertions.
>
> On Monday, November 23, 2020 at 2:10:42 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Can anyone suggest one, preferably one that is easy on/off, or at least 
>> easy to slip down when solitary and up when in public? I've been using 
>> basic cloth masks and (1) they're suffocating under any exertion, (2) they 
>> fog my shades, (3) the ear loops detach easily from your ears, so slipping 
>> them down often pulls them off.
>>
>> I am quite prepared to learn that the entire official protocol for 
>> infection avoidance is bunkum, and I am heartily disposed to believe that 
>> my political leaders are both inept and corrupt, or at least driven 
>> principally by self interest, but the situation is serious enough that I am 
>> willing to give them the benefit of the doubt and wear masks around others, 
>> especially since some others seem panicky if you don't.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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[RBW] Re: COVID face mask that lets you breathe and doesn't cause glasses to fog?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

The thing with masks is that if they're not a bit constrictive, they 
probably don't work (except for face shields, but who wants to look like a 
welder with a transparent shield?). That's the nature of filters. Having 
said that, there's constrictive, and there's *constrictive*. I should say 
that none are constrictive to the extent claimed by anti-maskers.

I find the least constrictive is one that has the largest surface area and 
that also does the job. Duh! But *how* do you know if it does the job? 
Given that masks are at least half a prophylactic against transmission to 
*others*, an easy way of determining efficacy, without specialized tools, 
is to try blowing out candles that are within a few inches of your face, 
with the mask on. If you can blow out said candle, the mask isn't effective 
enough. Stay away from the N95 masks with one-way valves; sure, they're 
nice for you, but they do not mitigate the dispersion of droplets to others 
as you exhale.

Anyway, I find buffs, wool ones, double-layer-up, and merely lightly snug 
around the mouth+nose instead of tight, to be efficacious and least 
constrictive. In fact, I use that when cycling in cold weather. With the 
proper eyewear, I don't experience fogging issues when on the move. In 
addition, you may also want to look into anti-fog treatments, especially as 
eyewear will fog up even without masks when one suddenly stops, in between 
exertions.

On Monday, November 23, 2020 at 2:10:42 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Can anyone suggest one, preferably one that is easy on/off, or at least 
> easy to slip down when solitary and up when in public? I've been using 
> basic cloth masks and (1) they're suffocating under any exertion, (2) they 
> fog my shades, (3) the ear loops detach easily from your ears, so slipping 
> them down often pulls them off.
>
> I am quite prepared to learn that the entire official protocol for 
> infection avoidance is bunkum, and I am heartily disposed to believe that 
> my political leaders are both inept and corrupt, or at least driven 
> principally by self interest, but the situation is serious enough that I am 
> willing to give them the benefit of the doubt and wear masks around others, 
> especially since some others seem panicky if you don't.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Brake Lever for Swept Bars - Tektro FL540

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I actually have two bikes that use these brake levers. I like their 
simplicity and their mechanical leverage is nice for most cantilever 
setups; but they have a rather significant flaw (for me at least) – these 
do not use slotted cable end stops, so are a pain to take out or install. 
Please note that these also use road type cable end instead of mountain 
bike cable ends.

On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 9:48:13 AM UTC-8 David Person wrote:

> My all time favorite brake levers for swept bars are the Tektro FL540.  
> Riv used to sell them in all silver as Tektro Mountain Levers, though I 
> know now why since they use a road cable instead of a MTB cable.  
> Unfortunately, Riv no longer carries them (Grant, are you listening), but 
> thankfully they are still available on the web as Tektro FL540, though I've 
> never seen them in all silver.  Closest is silver & black, as can be seen 
> on my wifes Linus.  They are relatively inexpensive at around $25.  The 
> graceful shape of the lever appeals to my aesthetics and my hand.  I picked 
> up a spare pair this week on eBay, just to have a spare set.
>
> [image: IMG_2431.jpg]
> [image: IMG_2432.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Chambray shirt deal alert

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Be aware that at least on my browser, the itty bitty ruler icon that David 
talked about goes away once you start clicking on the other sizes. If that 
happens, just reload the page and don't touch the size icons. I'm using 
Safari (not exactly a rare browser at 13% or so market share) so I think 
it's just shoddy configuration on their part.

To loop back to my question, I measured a few shirts and they're all around 
20" wide, buttoned, and that's equivalent to about 40" circumference/chest. 
I don't think I'm a particularly small fella (5'10"/160), so that's why I 
asked for a confirmation from those who actually have these shirts, 
especially as they are "Final Sale".

On Thursday, November 19, 2020 at 9:39:20 AM UTC-8 Hetchins52 wrote:

> Paul — There’s an itty, bitty graphic image of a ruler that links to the 
> sizing chart for each shirt. The chambray “Small” is about ¾” larger than 
> the other small shirts. Perhaps because it shrinks in laundering and the 
> others are pre-shrunk fabric?
> I ordered a Small Railroad short sleeve. Ships from Texas.
>
> David Lipsky in Berkeley, CA
>
>
> On Thursday, November 19, 2020 at 8:51:23 AM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:
>
>> Hey Benz,
>> Can you link to where you found those measurements? I'm almost always 
>> between sizes, but I can find them on their site or on Google.
>>
>> Thanks for the tip Dan. These look like great shirts, just in time for 
>> new shirt season!
>>
>> Paul in AR
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 9:43:52 AM UTC-6 Benz Ouyang, 
>> Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Dan, is the sizing correct? Their small has a chest size of 42.25", 
>>> which is 21" pit-to-pit and definitely a little large for a small. Is that 
>>> the "Riv fit" you're talking about?
>>>
>>> On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 7:48:26 AM UTC-8 danmc wrote:
>>>
>>>> Edgevale has their chambray shirt from last year on close out for $34. 
>>>> I have been really happy with this shirt. The fabric is not pre-shrunk but 
>>>> a good wash and dry gets it to a perfect Riv fit - not fitted with room to 
>>>> move. At $89 they were a good deal. At $34 it is a crazy good deal. 
>>>>
>>>> https://edgevaleusa.com/collections/sale/products/elwell-chambray
>>>>
>>>> Sewn in the US from Japanese fabric. 
>>>>
>>>> Enjoy!
>>>>
>>>> Dan
>>>>
>>>> San Rafael CA
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Chambray shirt deal alert

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I’m not sure if the size refers to the pre-shrink or post-shrunk 
measurements, because if you looking around at the other items, even the 
ones not expected to shrink (like the polyesters), the sizes are all the 
same. So it’s likely the latter than the former.

I’m really just asking if the sizing is correct, because 42.25” is quite 
large for a size small. Maybe they’re intended to be loose, but the 
description also isn’t terribly helpful . I like when sites list the 
model’s height and weight, and the size of the clothing the model is 
wearing, to give a more practical and useful reference.

On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 7:16:44 PM UTC-8 velomann wrote:

> "...is the sizing correct? Their small has a chest size of 42.25", which 
> is 21" pit-to-pit and definitely a little large for a small. Is that the 
> "Riv fit" you're talking about?"
>
> The site says the fabric is NOT pre-shrunk. Buy the size you normally 
> wear, wash it, and it should fit like normal after first wash and dry.
>
> Mike "Fan of Levis 501 shrink-to-fit" Mann
>
> On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 7:43:52 AM UTC-8 Benz Ouyang, 
> Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>
>> Hey Dan, is the sizing correct? Their small has a chest size of 42.25", 
>> which is 21" pit-to-pit and definitely a little large for a small. Is that 
>> the "Riv fit" you're talking about?
>>
>> On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 7:48:26 AM UTC-8 danmc wrote:
>>
>>> Edgevale has their chambray shirt from last year on close out for $34. I 
>>> have been really happy with this shirt. The fabric is not pre-shrunk but a 
>>> good wash and dry gets it to a perfect Riv fit - not fitted with room to 
>>> move. At $89 they were a good deal. At $34 it is a crazy good deal. 
>>>
>>> https://edgevaleusa.com/collections/sale/products/elwell-chambray
>>>
>>> Sewn in the US from Japanese fabric. 
>>>
>>> Enjoy!
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> San Rafael CA
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Chambray shirt deal alert

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hey Dan, is the sizing correct? Their small has a chest size of 42.25", 
which is 21" pit-to-pit and definitely a little large for a small. Is that 
the "Riv fit" you're talking about?

On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 7:48:26 AM UTC-8 danmc wrote:

> Edgevale has their chambray shirt from last year on close out for $34. I 
> have been really happy with this shirt. The fabric is not pre-shrunk but a 
> good wash and dry gets it to a perfect Riv fit - not fitted with room to 
> move. At $89 they were a good deal. At $34 it is a crazy good deal. 
>
> https://edgevaleusa.com/collections/sale/products/elwell-chambray
>
> Sewn in the US from Japanese fabric. 
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Dan
>
> San Rafael CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Real Maintenance

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

1275 miles is too long for routine maintenance. I usually ride 200-350 
miles between maintenance work, to keep the bike looking nice and inspect 
common things for damage/wear. This is especially important for fendered 
bikes, as it’s difficult to inspect the tires on those,

My maintenance routine:

   1. Remove front wheel and put bike on Euro-style stand.
   2. Remove rear wheel and put on idler pulley like this 
   .
   3. Cover leather saddles with plastic bag if necessary.
   4. Degrease chain with a strong degreaser like this 
   

 
   and a chain cleaner like this 
   .
   5. Repeat as necessary (if you wash regularly, you won’t get caked on 
   grease).
   6. Use degreaser and old toothbrush to scrub chainrings, cassette, and 
   brake pads.
   7. Rinse thoroughly.
   8. Make up pail of car wash shampoo and use that to clean entire bike, 
   top to bottom, including wheels. Use brushes and sponges as appropriate. To 
   save time, you can use those wash-n-wax car shampoos.
   9. Rinse thoroughly.
   10. Dry bike with microfiber towels, and dry chain with shop towels.
   11. During drying, inspect components (including tires) for wear, or 
   damage. Actuate brakes, and shifting to feel for correct response. Grab and 
   twist derailleurs, brakes, cockpit, saddle, and crank to see if there’s any 
   unexpected play. Rotate wheel axles and freehub with fingers to check for 
   smoothness and play (a little is expected for cup-and-cone hubs that I 
   prefer).
   12. Lubricate chain (yes, I drip oil on individual links), other moving 
   parts and pivots as necessary. Modern cables do not need to be lubricated.
   13. Put rear wheel back on. Rotate crank and inspect/adjust shifting. 
   Also inspect/adjust rear brakes.
   14. Remove bike from stand and put front wheel back on. Spin in air to 
   inspect/adjust front brakes.
   15. Go for quick test ride down the block to ensure everything is good.

I have my process set up, and I’m practiced (originating from being the 
shop monkey years ago), so these steps combined don’t take more than an 
unhurried hour, including setup and takedown. If I have two bikes in 
rotation and clean them together, it’s even less time per bike. Given my 
average speed of between 13-15 mph, it’s about an hour of maintenance for 
every 20 hours of riding.

This routine ensures my bikes are almost always clean and nice looking, and 
*quiet*. People often comment on my “new” retro bikes, when they’re usually 
more than 10 years old. Chain life also appears to benefit, as I barely use 
up chains, even when they tick over 6,000 miles.

On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 3:12:21 PM UTC-8 aeroperf wrote:

>
>
> It’s that time.
>
> I got my Sam in 2015, and as of yesterday I have put 5000 miles on it.  
> I’ve also made my yearly 1275 mile goal, so it is time to take it down for 
> real maintenance.
> I’m starting this thread for advice/discussion about what “real 
> maintenance” means.
>
> Every year I thoroughly wash and wax the bike frame.  I clean and degrease 
> the chain, chainrings, and cassette, and rotate the tires.
> I put Phil Tenacious oil on the derailleur mechs, RocRide All-Purpose on 
> the chain (twice a year for this), and replace any batteries like the 2032 
> in my computer.  I check the brake pads (I’ve had to replace a set once), 
> make sure the headset doesn’t have any play, check all bolts, adjust the 
> cables, and… that’s it.
>
> The bottom bracket and front and rear hubs are sealed units and not making 
> any noises.  The chain checker says the chain is less than half stretched.  
> Bar end shifting (friction front, index rear) seems to work just fine.  I 
> don’t really stress my Sam.
>
> My thoughts are: tear it down, have the LBS check the wheels for true, 
> replace the tires and tubes, and lube the cables with Finish Line Dry.  
> Then put it all back together after inspecting and lubricating the parts as 
> normal, and ride on.
>
> What am I missing?  Does anyone have a different maintenance for that kind 
> of mileage?  I’ve got a tool set used to build up four frames, so I’m not 
> worried about tearing everything apart if it is warranted.  But I’m 
> curious.  What do you do?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wow! What's going on with Rivendell caps going for $$$

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

How large is your head? I have a 60-odd cm head circumference and always 
have to get the largest caps and helmets. One size fits all usually means a 
bit tight. It’s bad enough that if my hair grows too long, the fit will go 
from nicely snug, to “yeah, I need to cut my hair soon”.

On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 1:38:30 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I saw that and I'd pay $50 for that rad color if it fit my fathead (it 
> won't). Stuff you can't buy new anymore can get absurdly valuable. 
>
> On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:22:58 PM UTC-8 Benz Ouyang, 
> Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>
>> So I was browsing eBay and happened upon this auction 
>> <https://ebay.us/KNZAsI>. The auction is for a *used* Rivendell cycling 
>> cap, and started yesterday (Nov 13th). The bids quickly added up and 
>> currently, a full 6 days before the auction ends, we're already at $51 plus 
>> $3.95 for shipping.
>>
>> Looking at the cap in question, I don't see anything special about it. 
>> It's cotton, its proceeds will not benefit any charity, and it's *used 
>> *(albeit 
>> in almost-new condition). Why are people willing to bid this cap up so 
>> high? And more importantly, am *I* now slightly wealthier because I have 
>> a stack of similar used Rivendell caps in different colors, including this 
>> mustard-yellow version? :)
>>
>

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[RBW] Wow! What's going on with Rivendell caps going for $$$

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

So I was browsing eBay and happened upon this auction 
. The auction is for a *used* Rivendell cycling 
cap, and started yesterday (Nov 13th). The bids quickly added up and 
currently, a full 6 days before the auction ends, we're already at $51 plus 
$3.95 for shipping.

Looking at the cap in question, I don't see anything special about it. It's 
cotton, its proceeds will not benefit any charity, and it's *used *(albeit 
in almost-new condition). Why are people willing to bid this cap up so 
high? And more importantly, am *I* now slightly wealthier because I have a 
stack of similar used Rivendell caps in different colors, including this 
mustard-yellow version? :)

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[RBW] Re: Acorn Cruncher Rides

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 3:22:43 PM UTC-8 Paul in Dallas wrote:

>
> Some cultures ate acorns after preparing them in a manner to remove the 
> tannins and bitterness.
>
> I think it was by soaking and then cooking them.
>
> If times get lean there are plenty of them around here to eat if one is so 
> inclined.
>

Or if you have pigs, you can feed the pigs acorn, and harvest them as kind 
of a *jamón ibérico de bellota.*

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[RBW] Re: As If The Platypus Couldn't Get Any Weirder (OT)

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I’ll be interested to find out if the Riv Platypuses glow under UV light. 
Maybe Grant & co knew about this trait and ordered special paint as an 
Easter egg?
On Sunday, November 1, 2020 at 6:09:35 AM UTC-8 Mark Roland wrote:

> Depending on how you look at it, OT could be Off Topic. Or it could stand 
> for On Topic...
>
>
> https://gizmodo.com/as-if-the-platypus-couldn-t-get-any-weirder-1845529134?utm_source=pocket-newtab
>
> [image: platypus swimming.jpg]
>  Not that I think Platypus the Bike is Weird. Except for maybe the name. 
> It does join a somewhat select group of Rivendells that are either a 
> species (Redwood, Heron, and the short-lived Clementine) or a breed of a 
> species (Saluki, Cheviot, Rambouillet, Appaloosa,)
>

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[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Travel Agents need to be set up correctly so the cable has no relative 
motion with respect to the pulley, especially around the bridging hole. 
Otherwise, the sharp kink and repeated motion may possibly cause the cable 
to fray. The key is to ensure the bridging hole is set correctly within the 
rotation range of the pulley. Here's Park Tool's tutorial on Travel Agent 
setup 

.

Given that there are people with good experiences with Travel Agents, I 
don't believe the mechanism is always inherently bad. OK, maybe if you 
consider being sensitive to setup as bad. Furthermore, having a shop do it 
doesn't guarantee that the job was properly done. I can't tell you how many 
times I've been aghast at "professional" work that I could have done 
better, if I had their tools (which I didn't because it's too expensive for 
one-time use).

Finally, the leverage/cable displacement change provided by the Travel 
Agent is not adjustable. It's kind of hit-or-miss whether you like the 
feel. For many people, having a spongy feel isn't great, and they prefer a 
solid feel. However, if the brake is set up and adjusted correctly, those 
two feel types only indicate how much leverage the brake system has – the 
spongy feel is high leverage, and the solid feel is low leverage. See St. 
Sheldon  for more 
info (applies equally to canti and V-brakes). Some brake levers have 
adjustable leverage though, and with those, one can customize the leverage 
to vary the feel to one's liking (again, trading power for "solidness").

On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 1:46:47 PM UTC-7 fugd...@gmail.com wrote:

> Twice I had frayed cables even when installed by LBS. I was told by 2 
> different bike mechanics frayed cables were not uncommon - also I remember 
> the feel was not as good as direct. YMMV 
>
> On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 11:00:48 AM UTC-7 vhans...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Please expand?   I have used travel agents for years, even replaced 
>> cables on them..   I have had no issues. 
>>
>> VTW
>>
>> On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 9:34:19 AM UTC-7 fug...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> There are real problems with Travel Agents, including safety. I just 
>>> changed levers.
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 8:26:56 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote:
>>>
 i'm not a pro mechanic by any means but i've used the standard shimano 
 lever on a tektro canti front and shimano v brake rear and didn't really 
 have beef with the stopping power (casual use, not performance at all, in 
 NYC)



 On Friday, October 16, 2020 at 5:18:09 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:

> Anyone ever use a Canti brake up front and V-brake in the back? I know 
> I'd need different pull levers, which complicates things, but I've 
> noticed 
> up front, the V-brake can sometimes be a little more than I need, it's 
> great in the back though. I have two sets of Paul neo-retro canti's 
> sitting 
> around and was thinking the combination might be something weird worth 
> looking into.
> Thx! 
> Scott
>


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[RBW] Re: Need Advice on 28.6 FD for MTB triple on Atlantis

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, October 18, 2020 at 7:16:34 PM UTC-7 nus...@gmail.com wrote:

> Steven, thanks! I took a look at M737 and M738, and they look awesome.
>
> Joe, what the heck, I'll give at try. PM incoming.
>
> Benz, the FD-M900 is gorgeously finished. Pricey, though!
>

As with most used stuff, it depends on your luck. I got two in very good 
condition for not much more than $35 each.

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[RBW] Re: Need Advice on 28.6 FD for MTB triple on Atlantis

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

   
   - 1st gen XTR, model FD-M900 has 28.6mm clamp version and is gorgeously 
   finished, albeit not entirely silver. I think it passes the Riv aesthetics 
   test though, especially if you pair it with a M900 rear derailleur.
   - Sachs Quarz (*not* Quartz, although often misspelled this way). 
   Entirely silver and you can find 28.6mm clamp or braze-on versions (easy 
   enough to find 28.6mm derailleur clamp adaptor).
   - Shimano 105 front derailleur FD-5504. available with 28.6 clamp and 
   entirely silver.
   - Most of the Shimano "Top swing/Low clamp" front derailleurs are so 
   compact, that the only immediately visible thing is the cage, which is 
   usually silver (chromed steel), even if the clamp is black, grey or 
   (painted) silver). Unfortunately, they usually don't come in "native" 
   28.6mm clamps, but have shims instead.

Unfortunately, none of the choice ones are current, so you will need to 
scour shops/swap meets/eBay.

On Sunday, October 18, 2020 at 11:59:15 AM UTC-7 nus...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I decided to convert my Atlantis from1x9 to 3x9, with a 20-32-42 triple up 
> front, using DT shifters. I need some advice, however, on an FD for the 
> conversion. I'd love something beautiful (silver), vintage (maybe Deerhead, 
> maybe Suntour, maybe something else), a 28.6 clamp diameter (not bolt on), 
> and durable. I've spent a little time perusing ebay, but thought I'd turn 
> to this group for advice. Let me know what you think.
>
> Andrew in Denver
>

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[RBW] Re: (Best) metal fenders for Joe Appa?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'll third, fourth, or fifth this (lost count), although I'll say that 
Berthoud hardware has the lowest profile, so if you're worried about TCO 
from the front fender, Berthoud should get extra emphasis (even if they 
don't offer fancy hammered or fluted designs).

Don't forget to put flaps on at least the front fender so you don't damage 
it hopping the bike off curbs.

On Tuesday, October 6, 2020 at 12:52:41 PM UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:

> I have used a couple sets each of Honjo (and Simworks Honjo) and Velo 
> Orange; the Honjo's have a little nicer hardware but they are quite 
> comparable overall.  I don't think you'd go wrong with any of the three 
> mentioned metal options, just a matter of which has the width / style you 
> need--and between the three, you can cover just about any tire short of a 
> fatbike. 

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[RBW] Re: Any particular grease cleaner you would recommend!

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, October 1, 2020 at 10:38:24 AM UTC-7 Joel S wrote:

> I used the finish line product but it goes very fast, then greased with 
> finis line.  Have hear talk of using a citrus based product.  Will use with 
> the park chain cleaning tank.  Any recommendations?


Finish Line citrus degreaser is one of the strongest degreasers I've tried 
outside of industrial degreasers. If you require its full degreasing power, 
you'll find that the popular alternatives like Simple Green probably won't 
work as well. In between Simple Green and Finish Line citrus degreaser are 
the automotive degreasers. I find full-strength Purple Power to be 
sufficiently powerful enough to easily degrease chains and chainrings. It's 
also remarkably inexpensive, with gallon jugs selling for about $5 at 
Walmart.

If you still want to continue with citrus degreaser, try buying in bulk 
from non-bicycle sources. They're usually sold as "100% D-Limonene" for 
much less than $14/20oz.

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[RBW] Re: FS: September Blow Out

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Laying claim to lucky #13: Riese and Müller Handlebar Mount.

On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 12:31:27 AM UTC-7 Corwin wrote:

> Hi -
>
> In spite of the virus, the fires, etc., 2020 has been really good for me. 
> I seem to accumulate lots of parts. I have no room for them. So I want to 
> send them to you! All prices below include shipping.
>
> 1) Silver friction levers mated to Shimano bar end pods. These are in 
> great shape and have lots of miles left in them. These are the original 
> Silver shifters - not the second generation recently released. $10 shipped.
>
> 2) Nitto Campee Rack. Not sure which rack this is - but it came off the 
> front of my son's SimpleOne. $10 shipped.
>
> 3) MKS Track Pedals. Great, inexpensive, durable pedals. Also in great 
> shape. $15 shipped.
>
> 4) Vittoria 700c x 25/32mm tubes. $5 shipped for both.
>
> 5) Shimano Flat Bar Brake Levers. In great shape. $10 shipped.
>
> 6) Park Spanners. 13, 14 and 15mm. One each. $5 shipped for all three.
>
> 7) Lumotec IQ Headlight. Plenty of wire here. Was mounted to the Nitto 
> rack above. Most of the wire ran to the tail light.
>
> 8) Velocity Quick Release Skewer. Came on my Hubbuhubbuh. I think the OLD 
> is 140mm.
>
> 9) Tail Light. This went with the Lumotec IQ above. $2 shipped.
>
> 10) Third Hand Tool. A piece of ancient history. I used to clamp my brakes 
> together with this thing to get cable slack, etc. $2 shipped.
>
> 11) Couple of sidepull brakes. A Shimano 600 "standard" reach, and a short 
> reach brake. Not sure where these came from. Throwing in the lever in the 
> picture as well $5 shipped for both.
>
> 12) Skewers from Schmidt Dynohubs. These take and allen wrench. $2 shipped 
> for both.
>
> 13) Riese and Müller Handlebar Mount for Dynamo Light. In great shape. 
> Used sparingly. $2 shipped.
>
> 14) Ritchey 10 and 12cm Threadless Stems. These have two-bolt faceplates. 
> Not sure about the rise. $10 shipped each.
>
> 15) Nitto UI-5GX Threadless Stems. These are some of the most elegant 
> stems anywhere. Four bolt faceplates. $15 shipped each.
>
> 16) 18 tooth cog for your fixed gear. Not much wear on this one. Came off 
> my son's fixed gear before he rode it. $2 shipped.
>
> 17) Nitto R Bottle Cages. These are the light ones. Very sleek and 
> elegant. The solid ones - not the hollow ones. $20 shipped each.
>
> 18) Giant Threadless Stem. Not as pretty as the others - but it's a long 
> one: 13cm. Two bolt faceplate. $5 shipped.
>
> Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/yQCgqV1kruueocWP8
>
> If any of you are in the SF Bay Area and want to come to my house in 
> Richmond, California to pick up one or more items, I will happily give them 
> to you gratis for saving me the time, money and hassle of shipping them.
>
> And if you want to send me money via Paypal - please use czech "at" 
> sonic.net.
>
> Namaste,
>
>
> Corwin
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Weird sideways tilt on a brooks professional...any guesses?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'm not Joe, and I don't have legs asymmetrical enough to require action; 
but I've seen people get fitted with spacers in between shoe and cleat, to 
make up length for the shorter leg. Obviously, this will require clipless 
pedals and I don't know if your dad rides with them.

On Friday, September 18, 2020 at 11:56:25 AM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:

> This is good info. One of his legs is longer than the other so I could see 
> how that could add a tilt to a saddle. Joe, do you have any fit suggestions 
> for different length legs? 
>
> On Friday, September 18, 2020 at 1:38:43 PM UTC-5 James Valiensi wrote:
>
>> HI,
>> Well used Brooks Saddles are never symmetrical and perfectly flat across 
>> the top.
>>
>> On Sep 18, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>>
>> I think you're right about improper saddle height, which is leading to 
>> the exaggerated tilt to the leather (I don't think it's the rails) and his 
>> numb foot. I have a slightly shorter left leg and my saddles get a lesser 
>> version of this tilt as well; what I think is happening is your dad is 
>> stretching too far to get his right foot on the pedal which is causing both 
>> problems. 
>> On Friday, September 18, 2020 at 10:55:18 AM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> So I was installing wider tires on my dad's Rambouillet and I noticed 
>>> his saddle had a really wonky sideways tilt to it. And then I remembered 
>>> him telling me on multiple occasions that one foot would always go numb on 
>>> him after a few miles, but I always marked it up to improper saddle height. 
>>> That is until now. I'm thinking this is what's causing it. Below's a photo 
>>> of what I'm seeing: 
>>>
>>> [image: 2020-09-18.jpg]
>>>
>>> It looks worse in real life. Has anyone experienced this? 
>>> Most of the bike's life is spent hanging up as you see below, which does 
>>> put pressure on the tension bolt of the saddle but is it enough to really 
>>> bend the rails that much? 
>>>
>>> [image: 2020-09-18 (1).jpg]
>>>
>>> Really just interested in any ideas or if this isn't the first time 
>>> someone has seen this, maybe his rump is also just a little crooked! 
>>>
>>> Cheers, 
>>> Andrew
>>>
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking Riv literature on All Rounder

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 7:21:04 AM UTC-7 John in PDX wrote:
> Have taken custodianship of a Rivendell All Rounder outed on iBob 
recently.  One of the earliest ones, delivered in January 1996, perhaps the 
earliest based on serial number.
> Original owner passed along a lot of paperwork with it, but wondering 
about early Riv Readers, catalogs or fliers that may have discussed the 
introduction and details of these
> models in greater detail.  Also how they may have been equipped by 
Rivendell if purchased as a complete bike.


Rivendell Reader  #3 has a bit on the first 
gen Rivendell frames. No info on how they're equipped when originally sold 
though.

One of the articles from Addison's list has the All-Rounder test bike 
equipped with:

   - Suntour Accushift bar-end shifters
   - Suntour Superbe Pro brake levers
   - Suntour XC Pro rear derailleur, front hub, and cantilever brakes
   - Suntour 6-speed cog
   - Simplex Touring front derailleur
   - Ritchey WCS Triple cranks with Willow chainrings
   - Specialized CrMo spindle BB
   - MKS Sylvan track pedals
   - Mavic 217 rims
   - Ritchey Mega-Bite Z-Max tires
   - Bullseye rear hub
   - DT spokes
   - Nitto stem, drop bar and seatpost
   - Campagnolo Chorus headset
   - Brooks saddle

Wow! What a hodgepodge of brands and models! All top-flight stuff for sure, 
but I don't think I've actually seen a bike with such varied equipment; and 
being a bag-matcher, I would find that…unsettling. LOL. I actually don't 
know if there was ever a standard fit-out for the All-Rounder. I vaguely 
remember that only some models came equipped with standard equipment (e.g., 
Quickbeam), and the All-Rounder wasn't one of them. Still, I remember 
Rivendell offered many high-quality, but arguably dated parts with varied 
availability back then. Thus, the "default" fit-out probably varied with 
what's at hand.

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[RBW] Re: Riv Long Low geometry

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

There's an article on the Longlow on the Rivendell Reader #8, available here 
 (hosted by Reed).

Relevant parts:

   - 1" longer wheelbase
   - 5mm lower BB
   - Designed for "standard" reach (aka medium reach like the Shimano's R451 
   
,
 
   or Velo-Orange's Grand Cru long reach 
   

 
   brakes)
   - Optional alternative to sidepulls are cantilever bosses
   - Will fit up to 700x38, or 700x35 with fenders, which is a handful of 
   mm larger than what can be accommodated by the standard bikes
   - Tubing dimensions appear to be generally similar to the standard bikes 
   (i.e., did not suddenly become a touring bike)

Later Rivendell designs tend to provide even more tire clearances and 
longer chainstay lengths, but (from what I've read) retained the general 
handling characteristics (they did not switched from mid trail to low 
trail, for example). And of course, there's the introduction of 650B wheels 
in appropriate frame sizes, to achieve fewer geometry tradeoffs for these 
sizes, and accommodate tires with more air. From reading Grant's 
discourses, I believe he thinks the bikes are evolving through the years to 
handle/ride better, and be more useful, regardless of the nostalgia.

On Monday, September 14, 2020 at 9:16:49 AM UTC-7 Tom Palmer wrote:

> Hi all,
> I am curious about the Long Low from days gone by. My google foo has 
> failed me.
> Was the idea behind the Long Low a long top tube and low bottom bracket? 
> How is that different from later Riv designs?
> Thanks!
> Tom Palmer
> Twin Lake, MI USA
>

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[RBW] New Riv cantilever brakes

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

As more details are revealed in Grant's Mid-Sept Blahg 
, 
it appears the design is reminiscent of Avid's Shorty Ultimate cantilever 
brakes; but the Riv variant has an interesting regular 12-sided 
(dodecagonical?) lobe "torque tube" to adjust the angle between pad and 
actuation arms, whereas the Avid variant only has two setting (wide and 
narrow). I've never seen this design before on *any* cantilever brake, and 
wonder what benefit it brings, other than being able to adjust the arm 
angle, and control the return spring tension, both in 30° increments.

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[RBW] Re: Derailer Pulley Question

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

First of all, are you certain it’s the upper pulley? I’m asking because 
I’ve never heard of nor experienced a Shimano ceramic bushing squeak 
before, and especially after so many remedial actions too. I guess the 
rubber lip seals, if run dry, may squeak, but if you oil/grease the 
bushing, the rubber seals will inevitably be coated too. Come to think of 
it, did you install the metal pulley end caps “inside” the rubber lip seals?

In any case, if you’re looking for replacements, pretty much any 
replacement with the same pulley size will work. I like the Tacx ones 
, 
but there are others, like from Velo Orange 
.
 
In all cases, you’ll likely lose the lateral float function of the Shimano 
ceramic bushing; but if your derailleur is adjusted spot-on, you shouldn’t 
have a problem.

Good luck!

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:45:23 AM UTC-7 aeroperf wrote:

> However, a failure mode for Hollowtech is the bottom bracket creaking, and 
> if you’re going to replace it, it is relatively easy.
> If you’re going to take the old one off and replace it with another BB51 
> (or SRAM equivalent), all you need is something like a Park Tool BBT-9.  
> “like” because JTDEAL makes one for less than half that price, etc.
> Save and reuse any spacers - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZNJM1Hi7jc
>

Hate to contradict but don't get SRAM BB cups. They are usually GXP which 
is 24mm/22mm instead of the straight 24mm that Shimano Hollowtech cranks 
require. In other words, Shimano Hollowtech cranks won't fit SRAM GXP cups, 
and vice-versa, even though they are visually similar.

I second aeroperf's recommendation of taking a closer look at the BB. 
Hollowtech cranks are easy to disassemble, with a simple 5mm hex wrench, a 
rubber mallet (or a block of wood), and the special tool TL-FC16 for the 
pre-load cap (usually comes with the crank and shops will have excess that 
they may give you for free). Once the crank is out, you can manually feel 
for bearing roughness and determine if the bearings and thus cups actually 
need to come out; if they do, then you'll need the BBT-9 tool. Do note that 
there are plastic sleeves separating the cartridge bearings from the crank 
spindle for Shimano-branded BB cups; there's no metal-to-metal contact. The 
plastic sleeves deform slightly to help in alignment, and they are 
typically what creaks, especially if the bearings are reluctant to spin 
freely.

Good luck!

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[RBW] Re: Crankset & BB Question

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Justin, I will suggest investigating what's causing the creaking and 
popping. Quite often, what appears to be from the crank may not actually be 
from the crank. Especially with an Xtracycle Free Radical conversion, there 
are more opportunities for creaks and pops. Unfortunately, troubleshooting 
such a thing is best done with a bit of experience, so you may need to 
bring it into a shop.

On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 9:01:18 AM UTC-7 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, 
NY) wrote:

> Okay thanks for the info. I'm not equipped or experienced with bottom 
> bracket replacement which is why I was hoping to salvage what's already 
> there and not have to remove and replace it. But maybe this is an 
> opportunity for me to figure it out. Will need to invest in some tools I 
> assume.
>
> On Tuesday, August 25, 2020 at 11:45:57 AM UTC-4 aeroperf wrote:
>
>> Justin—
>>
>> To answer your last question first, no, that spindle won’t fit.
>> Any way you look at it you would have to replace the entire bottom 
>> bracket.
>> The crank creaking and popping is more than likely due to the bottom 
>> bracket itself.
>>
>> If you want the cheaper solution, just remove the crankset, and replace 
>> the bottom bracket with a new BB51 or a Shimano BB-MT800.  These things are 
>> only about $25 and can be replaced reasonably easily with the right tools.
>>
>> Are you dead set on the looks thing?
>>
>> You need to remove the bottom bracket, and replace the bottom bracket 
>> with a square taper sealed unit like a UN-26.
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-BB-UN26-Square-Bracket-68x113-mm/dp/B001EIAZ7A/r
>>
>> If it is a dedicated mountain bike, it will need a 73mm sealed unit.  You 
>> will also need to find the right width spindle to keep the chainline at 
>> 50mm.  Somebody on the list with a  Suzie/Wolbis might help you find a 
>> spindle, since I’ve heard (but don’t really know for sure) that it has a 
>> 73mm bottom bracket shell.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Who is using bike lights?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

With respect to visibility and lighting, I read somewhere that overall 
visibility is correlated with the size of the light, rather than its 
intensity. This made sense to me because lights don't have infinite energy 
supplies, so your 1 watt of LED light energy can be concentrated into one 
small cone (beam?) of retina-searing capability, or diffused into a 
wide-angle slab that has a higher chance of being noticed by those who are 
not exactly in the cone of blindness. In fact, all motorized vehicles 
appear to have the diffused type of light, even if some can be diffused 
*and* bright.

The usual light marketing copies often remind me of way back, when 
computers were marketed solely on their clock speed instead of actual 
ability to function in a useful manner. We see lumen being bandied about 
all the time to sell lights, but that is a fairly useless metric because 
having a lot of light doesn't mean that light is being put to good use; 
what's useful is lux at a specific distance (let's say 10m), like with 
StVZO standards.

But all of these are passive devices. What we really need are more active 
mechanisms, like higher driver proficiency and awareness. I've read 
somewhere that the #1 safety factor for cyclists (as far as bicycle-car 
interaction) is drivers actually looking for cyclists. Andy Cheatham kind 
of eluded to this with the discussion of "vast image with lots of 
complexity that can be data overload". I often bring in the example 
 where one will not register something that 
the brain is not primed to look for, even if one technically sees it. To 
address this will require more cyclist presence on the road to acclimate 
drivers, and that won't happen unless drivers are acclimated and thus 
present less of an apparent risk to cyclist. So Catch-22.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Good wishes for those on list affected by CA wildfires

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Here's a website 

 
that can convey the extent of the wildfires. Remember that the areas in 
darker red are burning, and the areas in lighter red (orange?) are under an 
evacuation *order *(meaning residents need to pack up and leave). 

Even in Silicon Valley, the air quality is bad enough 

 
that friends with asthma are avoiding any outdoor activities in fear of 
exacerbation. Even indoors, my eyes are beginning to water a bit, which 
reminded me of when I flew into LA in the mid-90s, saw the thick brown 
layer of smog blanketing the region, and then felt it in my eyes.


On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 1:56:40 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> Yes, CA Friends, you’re on my mind every day. Our air is hazy all the way 
> in Vegas, so I can’t imagine what it’s like for our Californian friends. 
> Are you out there riding in the smoke and ash-filled air? Staying in? 
> Anyone having to evacuate?
>
> 2020...the hits just keep coming. 
>
> I’m so sorry, and I hope you’re safe. ❤️
>
> On Saturday, August 22, 2020 at 11:48:17 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Wow. Again, best wishes and a prayer.
>>
>> I laughed at your signature.
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 21, 2020 at 6:55 PM Philip Williamson  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Patrick. As my friend at Tilted Shed Ciderworks said on Monday, 
>>> “Here we go again.”
>>> Looks like the roads I rode last weekend are now either evacuated or 
>>> burned out. Dozens of acquaintances are evacuated, and the smoke and heat 
>>> are oppressive. The wind just picked up, and we may have more dry lightning 
>>> on Sunday. 
>>>
>>> Waking up in a sleeping bag by the ocean to the End Times Thunder and 
>>> Lighting Show was pretty intense. “Oh this will go down in the oral 
>>> histories.”
>>>
>>> Philip
>>> Global Warming, CA
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 21, 2020 at 4:48:33 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 I spent ~5 years on SoCal -- Calabasas/Malibu and Santa Paula/Ojai and 
 Pasadena and Atherton (girlfriend) way back in the '70s and early '80s, 
 college and hanging around afterward. I recall yearly wildfires and the 
 little everyday earthquakes; but nothing like the last few years, which 
 have been rather apocalyptic.

 I just read on the CR list that a well-known builder lost his property.

 Is Walnut Creek affected?

 I hope all living there and reading this are safe. 

 Here in high desert ABQ, NM the sun has long since burned off most fire 
 fuel, but I live in the little green belt -- bosque -- adjacent to the Rio 
 Grand; the summer before I bought my house, there was a bosque fire, after 
 which the City went in and cleaned out the thickets of imported willows 
 and 
 other aliens so we've not had one since. But I don't use a charcoal grill.

 -- 

 ---
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Tires and seat posts more important for comfort than frame material?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, August 21, 2020 at 2:19:25 PM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:

> …Hell, if I had the money, the eye for carbon and murdered-out 
> componentry, and rode bikes for no purpose other than to ride a bike, I 
> probably would prefer the ride quality of an Open U.P.(P.E.R.) with the 
> fattest Rene Herse EL tires, over some vintage Trek 720 on 700 x 23s.
>

Rene Herse tires may be manufactured to the highest quality and standards, 
but Open frames are apparently not . Maybe 
the vintage Trek 720 is better after all. :)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell has the almost perfect crankset for me

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, August 16, 2020 at 9:38:54 AM UTC-7, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> Joel,
> Are you opposed to a TA pro 5 vis?
> I run them on a couple bikes. 
> The small rings only go down to 26 but you can configure them as doubles 
> or triples.
>

Don't those need suitable (and usually vintage) front derailleurs with 
non-contoured cages?

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[RBW] Re: The 2020 BQ Un-Meeting in CA is canceled

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, August 14, 2020 at 11:33:56 AM UTC-7, Reed Idlewild wrote:
>
>
> I was one of the folks helping Jan organize the BQ Un-Meeting in CA this 
> year. I’m the person who booked the group campsite at Samuel P Taylor. 
>
> I’ve decided I’m not comfortable organizing or attending any sort of 
> Un-Meeting under the current circumstances. I have canceled the group 
> campsite reservation and let Jan know. 
>
> We were excited to share one of our favorite parts of the world with 
> y’all, and I’m deeply sad to call it off. 
>
> Hopefully next year. 
>


Hey Reed, cancelling it this year is the right move, and you have my 
support (if you even need that).

Selfishly, I do hope that when this pandemic has abated, and another 
Un-Meeting is being organized, that the organizers will still pick a 
location somewhere in the SF Bay Area.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Wednesday, August 12, 2020 at 11:05:45 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> "The $3500 Clem L is on eBay. It's a nice bike but what on earth justifies 
> the price here?"
>
> Nothing. A stock complete is about $1700 and I don't see any replacement 
> parts on this bike to justify that bonkers upcharge.
>

Could be an unwilling sale, as in "wife told me to sell it, and it's on 
eBay, even though I listed it at such a ridiculous price that it'll never 
sell".

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[RBW] Re: Are there different sizes of 1" threaded headset?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, August 9, 2020 at 11:37:28 AM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>
> It is very strange, but when threadless headsets first appeared I am 
> pretty sure they were 1", but quickly went to 1 1/8" (or larger).
> That was OK, but lately 1" threadless does seem to be becoming "a THING" 
> again, I've noticed components popping up in 1" threadless, it seems to be 
> popular with BMX racers under 10 years old. In that geme, light weight is 
> everything and smaller stuff just weighs less! (Surprise)
> I made a similar mistake to you,  I bought a threadless BMX stem and 
> didn't even look at the size, because it was a modern component; then when 
> it arrived I was shocked to find it didn't fit & I  was like "Whaaa ?)
> Now I see a bunch of 1" threadless components, but not frames with 1" 
> threadless spec.?
> Maybe someone knows more? Last thing we need is another spec. And I am 
> unsure how 1" threadless is anything but a backwards step!!???


1" head tubes are 1" head tubes, threadless or threaded. The part you need 
to worry about is whether the fork is threaded. Actually, you can even chop 
down an extra long threaded fork to make it threadless if you so wish, as 
long as you don't end up clamping the stem on the threaded portion, because 
the external diameter is the same. Furthermore, if a manufacturer makes 
both 1" threadless and 1" threaded headsets, it's usually the top cap and 
associated parts that are different; the lower end is identical, and even 
the upper cup and bearings are usually identical. Chris King even sell 
conversion kits to convert one to the other.

In any case, I don't think 1" threadless is a step backwards. 1 1/8" was 
introduced for mountain bikes, when it was decided that the 1" steerer was 
too wimpy, especially with the introduction of non-steel steerers. AFAIK, 
Rivendell steerers are all steel, and they don't especially cater to the 
"EXTREME SPORTS" crowd, so 1" threaded or threadless is plenty. As for 
threaded vs threadless, each have its advantages and disadvantages. For 
example, it's hard to get a lot of height out of threadless setups without 
it looking goofy, but it's trivial to properly setup and preload a 
threadless front end with only 1 or 2 Allen wrenches (no need for a pair of 
32mm or 36mm wrenches).

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Re: [RBW] Path Less Pedaled will review a Riv!

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, August 7, 2020 at 7:36:11 PM UTC-7, Chris L wrote:
>
> He's already posted a second video of the Hillborne, this time on some 
> mild single-track.
>

That title is a bit click-baity though. It mentions "Underbiking with the 
Rivendell", but unless Russ cut out the more technical bits of the trail 
from the video, riding that route with that Sam isn't what I'll consider 
"underbiking"; I mean, the tires are fat and knobby for goodness' sakes! 
Underbiking would be riding that route on 23/25mm wide file tread tires 
with a 39x23 lowest gear.

If I may paraphrase Crocodile Dundee , that's 
not underbiking . This is underbiking 

.

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[RBW] Re: SS Coupler Military Bike stupid idea?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 2:56:26 PM UTC-7, Yuhan Wu wrote:
>
> Hi guys, I've decided to add ss couplers to my hunqapiller finally. 
> Because I want a 29er I can easily fly with to mountains/parks or some 
> gravel races like dirty kanza. I was interested in the vintage military 
> bikes which has a hinge on the top and down tubes. These bikes could be 
> folded and carried with shoulder straps by the soldiers. Interestingly, the 
> idea is very similar to the modern couplers. But the vintage hinge locates 
> in the mid point of the top tube while modern coupler is closer to the 
> seatube. I heard one reason making it closer to seattube is for easier 
> boxing large frames. My bike is only 54cm. So that shouldn't be an issue. 


I don't know whether a hinged frame, even if it's a 54cm, will fit in a 
26x26x10 box, because a normal S coupled bike isn't packed as if it's 
hinged at the couplers. Furthermore, if you're portaging your bike, I don't 
know if it needs to have the frame broken down, because AFAIK, 
superhuman Lael Wilcox doesn't ride a collapsible frame and she 
occasionally portages her bike (mostly through trails on her routes that do 
not allow cycling).

I have a S coupled bike, but I have no idea if it's stiffer than a 
non-S twin, because it wasn't converted. However, I imagine a rather big 
chunk of thick-ish metal is probably stiffer than whatever tubing it 
replaced. This will be your case, because you're converting and probably 
won't/can't be redesigning the entire bike to accommodate the stiffer S 
coupled tubes.

Finally, despite owning a S coupled bike, I'll recommend your 
reconsider/reevaluate. if you don't travel a lot, it may not be worthwhile 
to retrofit S couplers. Use bikeflights , 
shipbikes  or something similar. These use 
larger boxes, and you'll spend less effort trying to disassemble/reassemble 
the bike at your destinations. Breaking down a S coupled bike is rather 
involved (30+mins per) because it all has to fit in a small box in a 
particular way. With the bicycle shippers, you can use larger boxes that 
will require less disassembly.

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[RBW] Re: Brake levers for setting up Canti front and V for rear wheel

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Monday, August 3, 2020 at 1:33:19 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
> Yep, Tektro's 354AG and MT2.1 are for both linear and canti, they adjust 
> inside the lever body. They are also often rebranded, like mine are Forte 
> brand but they are Tektro made. 
>

If you're going high-zoot, Paul levers come in both flavors of cable pull 
(Canti and Love), but are visually similar.

I'm not sure I agree with Will on this canti front/V-brake rear setup 
though. I would have recommended the other way around because:

   1. I like having a stronger brake up front. Yes, cantilevers can be 
   adjusted to have high braking power, but it's a compromise with tire 
   clearance, and it's convenient to have the front brake default to high 
   power.
   2. You can eliminate the cable hanger required for use with a cantilever 
   brake. It makes for a cleaner look, and…
   3. If you suffer from front brake judder, not having a long run of brake 
   cable between the hanger and the cantilever straddle cable may solve that.


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[RBW] Re: FS: Sugino OX601D 175mm 46/30

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 12:24:27 PM UTC-7, Kieran J wrote:
>
> So in dual 110mm mode, both rings are mounted inboard of the spider?
>
>> 
>>
>
Correct. In Mark Chandler's Gravelbike.com review 
 of 
the OX crank (same link as what Jeff provided), you can see this on the 
pics. Two chainrings, 48 and 34, on the inboard side of the spider. The OX 
is designed such that there isn't space on the outboard side to attach any 
chainrings.

Interesting that there's a 1.5mm spacer between the spider and the most 
outboard chainring. I don't remember those on my OX (which are run as 
110/74 because I need that 32T or 30T small ring).

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Re: [RBW] PSA: Early All Rounder

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 1:36:36 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Seller says 56.5cm. I'm out!


That's an interesting sale. The seller obviously knows the bike isn't a 
run-of-the-mill old bike with the asking price. But yet, the seller 
expended no effort to clean up the bike for sale, with dirt on the 
headtube, and torn handlebar tape (amongst others) as low-hanging fruit. 
Strangely though, the chain looks to be quite clean. I don't know what to 
make of it.

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[RBW] Re: anyone know how to figure out Tire Radius/rim radius?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 1:00:50 PM UTC-7, Ted Durant wrote:
 

> The old Avocet Cyclometer prescribed method: Set the front wheel so the 
> valve stem is at the very bottom and mark a line on the ground at the 
> center of the tire contact patch, where the valve stem is. Ride the bike 
> forward in a straight line one revolution of the front wheel, and mark 
> another line where the center of the contact patch (and the valve stem) now 
> are. Measure the distance between the two marks. Divide that distance by 
> 2*Pi, and that's your radius. (For more accuracy, repeat that measurement 
> several times and take the average.). It's possible to put a chalk line on 
> your tire and do this yourself, without help.
>

A trick to Ted's method is to mark the tire with a thin line of chalk, so 
the ground will be marked by the chalk as the tire rolls over the mark. 
Also, your error will be lower if you do two or more revolutions of the 
wheel instead of one, and lower the tire pressure such that it approximates 
the sidewall droop when a nominal load is applied, but that's bordering on 
OCD.

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[RBW] Re: Cantilever brake recommendations

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 9:35:41 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
> Yeah, if you can some XC Pro cantilevers by all means do. They open ALL 
> the way, as in past the frame. If a Kool-Stop pad gets in the way of the 
> front, chop off the rear @ the rear notch. You'll know how far you can go 
> as there is an internal metal frame in the pad. File it off smooth.  I love 
> smooth post cantis because they are so adjustable.  I do love any canti 
> that places the pad in *front* of the arm, not behind as many models of 
> lat seem to do, except the Shimano Alivio CT-91 and Dia Compe 988. Tektro's 
> 710/720 look great until you install them and find where the pad holders 
> bolt is ends up hitting the frame, limiting the amount of space you have to 
> remove the tire. Really stupid beyond words. I ended up using other brakes. 
> I even prefer regular road size pads, not those elongated things, and ones 
> that are centered over the post, like the Sun Tour canti's came with and 
> Dia Compe uses on the 988 canti, which is remarkably similar to the XC Pro 
> and it's currently made. The silver and black version use their Salmon 
> colored OPC12 pad, it's regular road sized and centered.
>

Garth, design is all about compromises. The brakes that place the pad arms 
"behind" the brake arm will be stiffer overall, since the contact points 
between pad and rim are closer to the base of the brake studs, so there's 
less bending moment around the brake studs. Depending on your particular 
application, this may or may not be moot. As for the clearance issue, one 
can use Koolstop's "Thinline" pads to minimize the space taken up by the 
pads, to facilitate wheel removal. Or if one does not insist on using pad 
holders with refillable pads (that are directional), one can simply flip 
the pad 180° around, so the "rear" points forward. Yes, it'll look a bit 
weird, but it works and you only have to do it for the front. 
Alternatively, one can also use so-called "Cross" pads, which are 
essentially road-size pads, attached to V-brake type threaded posts.

Finally, a lot of brakes that use smooth post brake pads tend to utilize 
semi-conical washers for adjustment*. Those tend to deform and take a set, 
making subsequent adjustment difficult. And the act of balancing at least 3 
degrees of freedom while tightening a 10mm nut is a job best left for the 
experienced mechanic (at least if you want to do it in a timely manner). 
With brakes that use V-brake type threaded posts, adjustment is as simple 
as actuated the brake lever to secure the pads onto the rim, shimming the 
leading pad edge with a penny (for toe), and tightening the 5mm hexnut.

** Exceptions include Avid's Tri-Align, and the Onza HO.*

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[RBW] Re: Cantilever brake recommendations

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 7:57:01 AM UTC-7, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> I don’t think I need to go with V brakes (smack me if I am wrong), and I 
> an unwilling to buy Paul’s due to price.  I got a recommendation on Velo 
> orange grand cru at $145 a set.  
>
> Ant thoughts on what to use on an Appaloosa or Atlantis? 
>
> If I use cantis I have a nice NOS set of Suntour levers, with V’s I start 
> from scratch.
>

If you're using a nice NOS set of Suntour levers, my bag-matching instinct 
would be to suggest a set of Suntour cantilevers, like maybe a set of XC 
Pro. If you're not in a hurry, you can probably get a nice set for <$100 on 
eBay.

However, practically speaking, with the biggest crux about cantilever 
brakes being proper adjustment, older cantilever brakes often use the smooth 
post brake pads  that are 
inconvenient to adjust properly. The newer cantilever brakes that use V-brake 
style threaded post brake pads  
are much easier to adjust for toe and position. In addition, I'll also look 
for low-profile brake arms, as the wider profile ones can interfere with 
panniers and other things. The VO Gran Cru will fit these requirements, but 
if you desire something more budget-friendly, Tektro's CR710 is about 1/3 
the price of the VO (which themselves are almost half that of Paul brakes).

Finally, if you're not going to use fenders, and are ambivalent about 
putting those Suntour levers into service, V-brakes are probably the 
easiest to set up and use. Especially on the front, saving that headset 
brake hanger for that cleaner look, and entirely mitigating brake judder 
are worthwhile advantages.

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite Adhesive for Riv Cork Grips???

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, July 14, 2020 at 1:38:33 PM UTC-7, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> …If anyone has a solution to soften these adhesives, please share it.
>

Goo gone  is purported to work. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Randi Jo Fabrications Jeff 'n Joan's Bag, Flannel Blanket

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hey Jim, I'm interested in your Jeff 'n Joan's Bag. I can't reply privately 
to you, so this will have to do.

On Monday, July 13, 2020 at 2:27:20 PM UTC-7 Jim S. wrote:

> This is the perfect bag to mount to your Jones H-Bar.
>
> Very little use, very good condition.
>
> Here are photos:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZkWDTXNHJYouTcu16
>
> Here's a product description:
>
> https://www.randijofab.com/collections/bags/products/jeffs-joans-bar-bag
>
> Price is $65 shipped.
>

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[RBW] Re: Removing crown race from Appaloosa fork

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

Have you tried borrowing a Park crown race puller 
? 
These use broad "blades" to bite into the crown race, so as to maximize 
contact and thus minimize crown race distortion, and pull from the steerer 
side instead of pushing from the underneath the fork crown like the 
Campagnolo remover. I've used my older version 
 to remove 
aluminum crown races (Shimano Dura Ace headset) without so much as a small 
mark.

On Monday, July 6, 2020 at 12:44:09 AM UTC-7 Nick Payne wrote:

> My habit with new frames is to chase and face the BB shell, and ream the 
> head tube and fork crown to ensure that everything is properly square. 
> Bottom bracket shell and head tube were no problem, I removed the BB and 
> knocked out the headset cups However, the Appaloosa fork crown is fatter 
> fore and aft than a normal 1" fork crown, and my crown race remover (the 
> Campagnolo model) doesn't fit past the crown to engage the crown race. In 
> fact, the crown race on the Duron X headset barely protrudes past the crown 
> - even if I managed to get it off with a punch, I think it would get 
> damaged because I'd have to be bashing on the thinnest outermost part of 
> the race.
>
> Has anyone managed to get one of these off successfully.
>
> Nick
>
> p.s. And BTW, the BB shell did need chasing and facing to be properly 
> square, and ditto for the head tube.
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike frame suggestions for longish distance 95% road comfort

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 1:19:47 PM UTC-7, Brady Smith wrote:
>
> If you decide low trail is what you want, you might consider the Soma 
> Grand Randonneur. Designed by the Boulder Bicycle people, but way, way 
> cheaper than their All-Road.…
>

…not to mention that Boulder Bicycle had kinda stopped making frames 
 
to concentrate on their vintage parts offerings.

Andrew (the OP) is familiar with Velo-Orange, so I don't know why he didn't 
put the Pass Hunter on his list. It's got all his wants, except for rim 
brakes. OK, maybe a 35mm ø steel downtube isn't going to plane…

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[RBW] Re: What shade of orange?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, June 25, 2020 at 11:07:45 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
>  Molteni Orange. Co-Motion says it's PPG code 61646
>
> You can't trust color reproduction online as there are endless variables. 
> So no it's not you, you see just fine.  
>

Yup, unless you have a color-corrected screen and the source has an 
accurate profile attached, WYSI*N*WYG.

Molteni orange is quite muted, and more towards a lighter burnt orange in 
my eyes. It doesn't have that sharp, bright impact that something like 
Fanta orange has, and it certainly isn't trending towards the red spectrum. 
In fact, when I first got my Colnago Master in Molteni colors (I'm assuming 
this is the reference), I was surprised at how muted and even…faded it 
looked, compared to the "juicy" Fanta orange. All the online pics, in 
comparison, appears to have the saturation turned way up.

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[RBW] Re: What shade of orange?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, June 25, 2020 at 10:23:40 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> The photo shows the old Libertas 531 frame that Chauncey just took for 
> refurbishment: add modern tt brake housing stops, dt housing stops for bar 
> end shifters, and over-the-bb f and r derailleur cable guides. Odd, the 
> rear is already spaced at 130 -- this is a bike from the 1970s, so someone 
> altered it in the meanwhile.
>
> I've decided I need an orange bike, So, to the question: What shade of 
> orange do y'all recommend? The orange on the panels looks rather muted, 
> don't you think?
>
> This looks deeper, but between my bad color vision and even a HD monitor, 
> who knows; what do you think?
>

The correct bicycle orange will always be Molteni Orange, followed by 
Rambouillet Orange. :)

IRL, Molteni Orange is quite muted, compared to the orange on the bike 
you've presented, that looks more like Fanta/SunKist Orange (at least on my 
screen). The closet match in terms of automotive colors may be something 
like the orange on the original VW Beetle. Rambouillet Orange is also 
within that realm, but is metallic. I liked the orange of the original 
Cheviots so much that I had my Wilbury repainted that color.

In the end, if you're painting the entire frame+fork, and you're not trying 
to match something else (like a jersey or your car), some deviation from 
what you've imagined is likely OK. Indeed, when I had a couple of my bikes 
repainted, I agreed with Rick from D about the general color and shade, 
but wasn't fixated on the *exact* shade. That made it easier for him, and 
took pressure off both of us; the results were pretty good.

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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres 700 x 30 substitutes?

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, June 21, 2020 at 8:07:49 AM UTC-7, Tom Goodmann wrote:
>
> I've long enjoyed the suppleness of these tires, but they seem not to have 
> been available in the U.S. now for some years; I think they can still be 
> obtained outside the U.S..  Any recommendations for near-equivalents?  
> (Labeled as 700 x 30, but seem to measure out closer to 32).  Thanks in 
> advance for any recommendations.
>

For suppleness, consider Challenge Paris-Roubaix (27 
 mm) or Strada Bianca (30 
 and 36 
 mm) tires in their 
respective "Pro" versions, which are what Challenge calls their tires with 
260 tpi or higher thread count carcasses. They generally run a bit larger 
than stated, especially the P-R, that runs to about 29mm even on fairly 
narrow rims. If you get Challenge products from Europe, they're actually 
reasonably priced too (although still not inexpensive).

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Re: [RBW] Re: Useful use for beeswax

[Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, June 21, 2020 at 4:02:33 PM UTC-7, Craig Montgomery wrote:
>
> Hey, just another Day in the Life of Boy Blunder. If I hadn't  been 
> chewing on that Jolly Roger while I was riding it wouldn't have happened! 
> I've got another one about a pair of pliers, a lighter, and a needle but 
> your wives will wonder why you fainted at the keyboard.
>

At the risk of fainting at the keyboard, please do tell. 

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