Mike,
You have programmed active low for both COR and PL but it sounds as
though you have not used command 005 to set the receiver access mode
to require both COR and PL. By default it requires only COR for the
repeater to go active. In that state the PL input will simply be
ignored.
With
Yahoo! Groups Links
--
Paul Kelley, N1BUG
http://www.n1bug.com
I guess I was lucky in my first few years as a repeater owner.
Lately I have nothing but grief in many forms. (Yeah I know, welcome
to the real world!)
Can someone tell me in basic terms what is the difference between an
isolator and an intermod suppression panel which contains an isolator?
If the Comprod is really the equivalent of the Sinclair SRL235-2, I
must respectfully disagree with this. The instruction sheet for the
SRL235-2 says the opposite, that maximum radiation would be
perpendicular to a line drawn as described. I can scan a page from
the Sinclair instruction sheet
.
--- Jeff
-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Kelley N1BUG
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 5:36 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] SRL235-2 Bi-Directional
Antenna
Jeff DePolo wrote:
Now, having said all of that, my real-world experience with
single-frequency-pair repeaters (not combiners or other multicarrier
systems) is that I've never had a PIM problem that I could attribute to
connector plating. Any connector that I install is silver-plated (or H+S
John J. Riddell wrote:
Paul, there is a product made here in Canada by DW Electro chemicals called
Stabilant 22 that works wonders on connectors. It is a liquid and is about
35
dollars for a very small bottle.
You just put a very small amount of it on each mating surface of the
I did a brief test (a few minutes each) on the remaining 7 dipoles
from the noisy SD2352 array. The only way I know to see if they are
noisy in duplex service is to stick them on the repeater and see
what happens. I used a weak signal radiated into the dipole under
test for audible indication
Nate Duehr wrote:
I would also cautiously throw in here (knock on wood) that we've had
EXCELLENT luck with the 2-bay vertical Sinclair folded-dipole antennas
(snip)
(Heck, if I knew the 2-bays worked THAT good from this type of site, I'd
have put these things up sooner! S much easier to
OK, I guess it's about time I asked this. Is there someplace I can
find a reference on various connector types (plated or not, type of
plating) vs PIM/IMD/noise in duplex systems and/or in high RF
environments? I am looking at replacing my run of LDF5-50A and
wonder what type of connectors I
Skipp,
Do you have any idea WHY the models with two dipoles side-by-side
are problematic and the in-line models are not? Are there
differences in the construction of the individual dipoles that cause
problems? Differences in the phasing harness? I'm thinking about
using these dipoles to build
Chuck,
They are hot dip galvanized and there is no sign of rust (yet). When
I took this apart I checked every bit of hardware for looseness and
rust, found nothing suspect.
One thing I did notice when I got the antenna was the factory Y
splices and heat shrink over the 1/4 wave 35 ohm
Thanks Burt!
Great info there.
If all the dipoles seem to be OK (not noisy) I am thinking of making
my own harness to use 4 of them. I've constructed several
multiple-antenna EME arrays so I understand the concepts and the
importance of equal lengths, etc.
My only concern with making my own
That is interesting Gran.
The noise did not change with weather conditions, be it wet or dry,
dead calm or gale force winds. I didn't try spraying with water
while testing, but did tap on all the dipoles and wiggle as much
coax as I could reach. It didn't seem to react to any of that. It
was
Hi Burt,
Let's hope you don't need to get inside the dipole itself. BTW what is
the diameter of the aluminum tubing used on the SD2352? The SD214 uses
3/4in OD.
I *am* hoping!
They use 3/4 in. OD on these also. The width of the folded dipole is
4.25 inches and the tip to tip (outer
Update... the entire harness looks pristine. No sign of any problem.
That goo they put inside the plastic clam shells around the
factory Y splices is rather interesting stuff!
I hope I find one or more noisy dipoles when I test 'em... otherwise
I'll be left with a mystery and have no idea what
You didn't say, but are you running on some other antenna right now.
(I'm looking here for how you know it was the Sinclair making the noise,
and not some nearby rusty joint problem in a high RF field
environment. (Are you in a high RF field environment? Any new
transmitters right on top
There's nothing crazy about that idea Nate! I get creative thoughts
when sleep deprived too. :)
I had been thinking the transmitter might be doing something funny.
I don't have easy access to a spectrum analyzer, but I think I've
ruled out spurs as the primary cause? Correct me if my logic is
Ed,
That is true. I stupidly neglected to do that after removing it from
the tower and have been kicking myself ever since! I will probably
end up re-assembling it to try that... but of course now everything
has been disturbed so it may or may not act as it did before.
I did do a brief test
Chuck Kelsey wrote:
You could test the harness with dummy loads connected in place of each
element, if you can round up enough dummy loads.
I like that idea. I would have to buy a bunch of loads though, not
much chance of borrowing that many around here.
And you could install the entire
That's interesting Skipp.
I'm searching. I did find a couple references to PIM/IMD problems
and one about poor signal with this type antenna.
The latter caught my eye as I've been sitting here half thinking
coverage with this single dipole I tossed up there *seems* to be as
good as with the
Several weeks ago I posted about my ongoing battle with duplex
noise on a 2 meter repeater. I have now found a big piece of the
problem (maybe all of it) but I'm a little surprised. I am wondering
if others have had similar experiences.
Two years ago I put up a new (well... NOS, actually)
Mike,
Thanks. That is interesting. I don't recall hearing about this with
dipole arrays before. What is the failure mechanism? Deterioration
of the coax due to repeated slight flexing? The antenna was
supported bottom and middle.
Paul N1BUG
Mike Mullarkey wrote:
Paul,
I
That's what I thought Chuck. Thanks! I haven't yet decided whether I
want to rip the heat shrink tubing off an element and disassemble it
to see what coax is inside, which is why I asked.
I was sort of contemplating whether it might be possible to replace
all that coax with RG-214 in an
together.
All that said, I've never worked on a Sinclair. I'm going by info that I
believe to be correct as to what is inside the element.
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: Paul Kelley N1BUG paul.kelley.n1...@gmail.com
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent
this?
Dave WB2FTX
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.325 / Virus Database: 270.12.26/2110 - Release Date: 05/12/09
06:22:00
--
Paul Kelley, N1BUG
http
Got one here too! Honestly you should see some of the
professionally installed repeaters with mobile radios screwed to
plywood, wires dangling everywhere, exposed electrical connections,
repeater buildings with rusty metal sheets for siding flapping in
the wind, bent leaning towers (installed
Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote:
As I recall, an early ARRL VHF manual had a brief chapter on
repeaters, and I believe there were two articles that were of
interest. One was the duplexer and another was a four bay folded
dipole antenna for repeater use.
I'd like to get a scan of that ARRL
Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote:
The lock-shut-through-its-own-contacts latching relay uses
power as long as it is activated.
As another gentleman pointed out, the magnetic latching
relay only uses power when the coil is activated (i.e. a
pulse to change the state of the relay).
I would want to use
I am also working toward a multiple receiver voted system and have a
question. I was reading
http://www.repeater-builder.com/tech-info/votingcomparators.html
and wondering about how to implement a site suicide command where
power is disconnected from the entire remote package requiring a
trip
RAMSEY KITS has a unit that is supposed to work from commands via your
telephone touch pad. It’s about $39. You call the unit up, touch the
phone keys, and the dtmf commands can turn on and off devices plugged
into it. I wonder could this be converted to work on the input of a
recvr,
Randy,
I will be using a small repeater controller. What I want is some way
to kill power to everything in the box... receiver, link
transmitter, controller, the whole works. This would be a last
resort in the event something fails in such a way that it is
critical to shut it down, at a time
Mike, Paul, Mike, Martin, and others...
Thanks for the ideas. I will try out a couple of them and then make
a decision on exactly what method to go with. I had not thought of
using a latching relay. The idea of a husky relay or maybe a beefy
SCR to short the supply on the inboard side of a
OK, let's think about several things here...
All three of them looked identical,
with rejection on the rx side of -80 dBm on each single cavity.
Do you mean -80 dB? I have never seen a single cavity that could
offer 80 dB notch depth. If you really meant -80 dBm (80 dB below 1
milliwatt)
I guess it doesn't really make much difference how accurate a propagation
program is, since the Hams I know who have used Radio Mobile or similar
programs, simply put the computed coverage plot on the wall and proudly
proclaim that it represents the coverage of their particular station. I
Can anyone help me out with this one?
I have a UHF Micor mobile T34RTA3000AA (450-470 range), exciter is
TLE8423A. I have a manual but the closest model listed has a 'BA'
suffix.
The manual has a fold out page covering TLN5731A and TLN5732A PL
encoder boards, but doesn't explain the
I haven't seen any replies to this yet so I'll take a stab
at explaining the basics. (Hey guys, this sort of thing is
a FAQ, obviously... maybe we need a good basic Repeater
Building 101 article for RBTIP? If there is one, I
haven't found it. I am aware of the What's a Repeater
article but
VERY interesting. I have a VHF repeater that is doing the
same thing (intermittent bouts of noise that sounds like a
bad connection / micro-arc). I've been blaming it on the
very old Phelps Dodge PD220 antenna... which it may well be
in my case.
What I am curious about here is that in
Yeah, it may be a gamble depending on the site. I have read
the recent comments on that receiver and obviously it does
work well at a number of sites. Probably wouldn't hold up
at some others...
I tend to forget about such things easily, as I am used to
working with repeaters at incredibly
In my case, what worries me is the problem seems to be worse
in a gentle breeze than a strong wind. About half the time
shaking the antenna seems to produce the problem and the
other half it doesn't. It is nearly always breezy at the
site which leads to a certain ambiguity on that test. I
wrote the article. little
fluffing and folding and its good to go. but,,,
thats only my opinion ...i could be wrong..
mdm
probably need some sexy pictures to augment it...
Paul Kelley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I haven't seen any replies to this yet so I'll take a
stab at explaining the basics
Uh... that's another article... Repeater Politics 101
Besides... ya don't even wanna get me started on wacked
coordination groups. ;-)
Paul N1BUG
On Tuesday 23 August 2005 03:58 pm, skipp025 wrote:
I don't see the part where you deal with wacked
coordination groups fight with
Bob,
I've heard the hybrid ring is a bear to adjust. That
engineering paperwork Skipp has sounds interesting but
given his comment I'm not sure I'd be able to understand
it! (Skipp, I don't have any real need for that info,
aside from a curiosity/desire to learn or help others)
With a 40
Paul, when you say capping
the other port, do you mean shorting it or leaving open,
or with stub or what?
Best is to put a cover on the connector to shield it so no
RF can leak in or out. A type N cap will fit the threads
of an SO-239 connector. Second choice is to leave it open,
connect
Just thought I would share my experience retuning a 6 cavity
DB4062 duplexer this week. Since there was someone asking
about this recently, maybe it will be of interest.
I was a bit nervous about doing this with minimal equipment
as outlined in their field tuning instructions, but it went
No piston trimmer that I can see, unless it's inside the
can across the loop. I was thinking of cracking one open
to find out. Anyway, though, it would have to be
adjustable to peak up the cavity, so why would they hide
it in there?
No, they wouldn't be hidden inside. Just checking.
On
Yes, I know Mark. I don't need it to transmit, just monitor
a frequency and only for a few weeks. Fortunately I'm at a
really quiet site so the receiver doesn't get crunched.
Getting tone decode to work reasonably well was cured by
using speaker audio... guess this is one of those typical
Thanks Paul. Just getting a chance to catch up on mail
here. Speaker audio does seem to work better in this case,
which surprises me. Whatever works! Thanks for the help.
Paul, N1BUG
On Sunday 07 August 2005 08:34 am, Paul Holm wrote:
We had similar difficulties with a 241 and an
I am wanting to temporarily use a Kenwood TM-241A radio at a
repeater site... not for a repeater receiver but for
something fairly mission critical. I fed the audio
output available at the mic connector to a TS-32P and it
seemed to decode fine at first. I have now found it
decodes signals
My vote goes to Decibel Products DB4060. The only thing
that looks different from the Decibel duplexers I have
worked with is the brackets holding the cavities to the
mounting rail(s)... but the brackets shown in your photos
are exactly like the ones pictured in some of the (older?)
DB
The difference is less than 1.5 dB... barely noticeable, if
at all... and definitely isn't going to buy you any added
range.
Paul, N1BUG
On Saturday 23 July 2005 09:33 am, Maire-Radios wrote:
that is the thought. thanks and other thoughts?
Will there be a noticeable difference in
Yes... it's a UHF MSB/MSY station of some sort... or part of
one. I don't know the original station model number so I
may be out of luck.
This thing works but the station control / power supply has
been hacked and largely replaced with homebrew by a prior
owner. I think I can easily sort
I have located a manual which should answer my questions
about this station.
Paul, N1BUG
On Tuesday 19 July 2005 11:17 am, Paul Kelley wrote:
Yes... it's a UHF MSB/MSY station of some sort... or part
of one. I don't know the original station model number
so I may be out of luck
On Sunday 17 July 2005 02:27 pm, Neil McKie wrote:
More - found it !!!
Indeed you did !! Thanks Neil, I appreciate it. I thought
this was going to be tough to identify from the limited
info I had, but you nailed it.
That tells me what I need to know for now.
Is there an easily copyable
Aha! I think I've identified my dinosaur remains as some
version of Motran base/repeater. That's a start. I still
can't determine exactly which receiver and transmitter I
have. I assume there were a few variations.
Anybody got a manual for something like this that they would
part with?
While we're on the subject of ancient Motorola stuff... I
just acquired remains of something which I am trying to
ID. It is or was a UHF station or repeater. I believe
these are the transmitter and receiver numbers:
TTE1133AA
TRE1152AF
Anyone know what this was or have documentation for
And here's a REAL long shot
I'm trying to find any info on this power supply, believed
to be from a RCA ~100 watt VHF base or repeater. The only
markings are: 3720788-501 CODE B.
I don't have a picture so will try to describe it. Open
frame, rack mount, 7 height. One big
Did you get an answer to this? I've forgotten what the A, B
and C ranges were. I have a DB4062 which is 143 - 156 MHz.
I can measure the cable length next time I am at the site
(should be within a few days). I'm not sure the loops
would be any different between the ranges, but they
BTW: Which sticks are you in? I'm in EC Indiana, with an
SA that I could loan.
A kind offer, thanks. Different sticks though... I'm in
central Maine, geographically speaking (that's northern
Maine to most of the world :-)
Paul
Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go
Joe was right. I feel like an idiot! But this experience
served as a very effective reminder... I doubt I'll be
making this mistake again any time soon. :-)
Service monitors and spectrum analyzers don't live out here
in the sticks. So when I had reports of a spur I dragged
out my
Matthew,
You shouldn't need to reduce the audio level going into the
controller. The RX audio level adjust pot on the
controller should allow you to adjust that level as low as
you need. You might want to go through the procedure for
setting audio levels (RX and TX) in the controller manual
So, no one here has ever run into this before? Really??!
I found and tested a third radio... same problem.
To restate what the problem is: Micor mobile UHF T34...
when running in the ham band transmit low / receive high
they are spurring 910 kHz above the transmit freq. I don't
know what
Eric,
Thanks for the reminder never to trust a single instrument
too much. This spur is verifiable though. It can be heard
on the air when the Micors are running into an antenna, up
to at least 5 miles away if it is a true line of sight path
and there is some antenna gain at both ends. And
Thanks Glenn.
When I first noticed the 910 kHz relationship, 455 IF was
the first thing that popped into my mind... until I
realized the Micor doesn't have a 455 kHz IF. Darn,
another good theory ruined...
Since I have 3 similar radios exhibiting exactly the same
problem I am thinking this
On Saturday 02 July 2005 11:57 am, Ken Arck wrote:
---My first reaction is to ask..how are you driving the
xmtr, audio wise? Did you bypass the limiter/filtering?
Thanks Ken.
The spur is there even without audio. But no, I'm not
bypassing anything... controller audio is fed to the
Comments threaded in...
On Saturday 02 July 2005 01:19 pm, Joe Montierth wrote:
I have used lots of Micor mobiles as repeaters and
never seen this problem.
Thanks Joe.
How far down is the spur from the TX carrier?
About 80 dB give or take a bit.
My thought is that the 910KHz is too
On Friday 01 July 2005 04:56 am, Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote:
One trick that I have used... the far end of the
preselector tune broader than the near end. I've found
that I get better performance if I do the tuning then
turn it around and tune it again. This lets the old far
end adjustments
I just spent another night poking around in this thing.
Sniffing around the transmitter with a receiver and very
small probe antenna I am reasonably certain the spur is
present at Q305 (exciter mixer) and all subsequent stages.
Using a general coverage receiver the fundamental output of
the
On Friday 01 July 2005 08:43 am, Dave VanHorn wrote:
Any possibility that it's coming from the power supply,
and not actually the amplifier at all?
Do you get it when running from a battery?
Good thought. I tried 3 different power supplies and
finally a battery. There is definitely
On Friday 01 July 2005 03:22 pm, Glen Briggs Aka KBØRPJ
wrote:
can anyone help me find the tuning information for a
DB4060 duplexer, i can't see, to find them anywhere on
the net.. anyone got any ideas?
I think all that stuff disappeared from the web site when
Andrew acquired Decibel
Aarggh! I've pulled out most of my hair on this one! To
revisit something I asked about several months ago... I'm
still having a problem with my UHF Micor mobile converted
to repeater.
It is a T34RTA3000AA with power set at 20 watts. It is on
444.000 (T), 449.000 (R) and is producing a
Thanks Skipp...
I do have the proper service manual, and I have tuned that
exciter bandpass filter so many times I can now do it in my
sleep. I used the first time presets per the manual and
followed the procedure down to the last detail.
I fed the output of the LLA to a 50 ohm load and the
Don,
1. Cavities are roughly tuned by their
physical dimensions, and then tweaked by rods, plates,
etc., eh?
The length of the cavity (more importantly the inner
conductor of the cavity) sets the frequency. Usually
cavities are designed to cover a RANGE of frequencies...
the tuning rod
On Wednesday 25 May 2005 09:02 am, Gary wrote:
I made the elements out of 1/4-inch brass so I don't have
to worry about a weap hole to drain water. The supporting
element for the dipole is 1-inch aluminum square tube.
The harness was built from RG- 11 coax.
That is very interesting Gary.
Alexander,
That is a good start. Now you have some more work to do
(sorry I didn't have a chance to comment before your trip
to the site!)
With the preamp OUT and repeater transmitter DISABLED, get
someone to give you a weak signal (something that is far
from full quieting). Now put
On Thursday 12 May 2005 01:57 pm, DCFluX wrote:
Has anyone had desence due to the fact that the repeaters
antenna is too close to the repeater its self? Like 12
feet of vertical seperation and 2 feet horizontal?
I don't know about your MASTR II base station (per later
post) but I had
Probably a dumb question, but
I just obtained a new Sinclair SRL235-2 antenna. The
factory 'Y' junctions in the harness are enclosed in
plastic clam shells which were apparently filled with
some type of goo and then clamped onto the cable. The goo
around the edges is still very... well,
Steve,
As others have said it will probably work much better to
separate the lines at the antenna port of the duplexer.
Leave the transmitter and receiver connected as they are
now, but remove the T at the duplexer output and feed the
TX antenna from the TX side of the duplexer and the RX
Good answer Mike, but I think you made a typo below...
If the antennas are 50 ohms and you feed them with odd
quarter waves of 75 ohm coax, the impedance is transformed
to 100 ohms... divided by 2 at the T connector is 50 ohms,
not 37.5.
In theory I agree with the comment about not moving too
There are at least two types of BpBr cavity as well. I have
a homebrew T1504 duplexer using four Moto BpBr cavities.
Two have the slotted 1/2 inch threads and lock nut. The
other two have 1/2 inch mounting threads and no slots; the
threads also do not extend far enough forward from the
On Friday 11 February 2005 10:33 am, Joe Montierth wrote:
Second, I see this 3 dB thing bantered about as the
smallest change that can be heard. I think this is
wrong, due to personal experience, and talking to
others. Most CW ops will tell you that when someone
changes power by 3 dB, that
It will come to 5 volts if you find a ferrite slug. I got
some out of an old HT... don't remember if it was a
Motorola or what, but it had the right size slugs for PLL
exciters. I *may* have more of them around, but would have
to look.
Paul N1BUG
On Sunday 19 December 2004 07:01 pm, DCFluX
Me too, but we live in the U.S.! I suspect living in India
gives one a very different perspective on that. I hope
someone can help Venkat with the xtal info. (Maybe someone
already has... I was only partially following the topic
since I don't have the requested info.)
Paul N1BUG
On
I have seen the cheap RG-214 type cables, but all the
genuine RG-214/U MIL-C-17 stuff I have used had silver
plated center conductor and double silver plated shield. I
learned from experience not to use anything less in duplex
service! (you can sometimes get away with it, but don't
count on
So you're using a piece of SINGLE SHIELD coax that you have
reason to believe may have been exposed to WATER, and
you're wondering if you should get rid of it?? Yes! Do
yourself a favor and get a piece of hardline or at the very
least RG-214/U with double silver shield. Also make sure
the
On Tuesday 23 November 2004 01:40 pm, Mike WA6ILQ wrote:
Do you have a spare digital output and a spare digital
input? Can you trigger a timer on an input going
inactive? If so, add a 555 timer chip outside.
Yes, Yes, and Aha! Thanks for the idea. If I do that I will
have used up all my
On Monday 22 November 2004 08:09 pm, Mike WA6ILQ wrote:
The Scom has a command that can be included in the macro
to pause the execution - it actually freezes the entire
controller until it times out. Maybe the Link has
something similar.
Nice. The Link RLC-4 doesn't have anything similar
That's a great idea and I have been thinking along those
lines... just haven't engineered a workable solution yet.
Paul
On Saturday 20 November 2004 09:25 pm, Kevin Custer wrote:
Steve Grantham wrote:
How about running the exciter PTT or A+ through timed
relay contacts that will open on a
On Sunday 21 November 2004 05:07 pm, Mike WA6ILQ wrote:
The flow chart and design of the common moonbounce
preamp switching can be your starting point.
I have been on moonbounce and used relay sequencing schemes
for many years, but the required flow here is quite
different. Probably a simple
On Saturday 20 November 2004 10:14 am, Kevin Custer wrote:
A Micor Mobile antenna relay for the input power (400
mW), and the OEM GE antenna relay used with the high
power station (part number unknown, but it looks and is
similar in size to a Dow Key Relay) for the hot side of
the RF.
OK. I
Kevin,
That is one awesome repeater! Nice mix of GE and Motorola
stuff. I sort of have the reverse situation with GE
receiver / exciter and Moto PA.
I have questions concerning the PA selection relays. I
assume you have relays at the PA outputs as well as the
inputs? What type of relays are
That's exactly it Joe. I could use a good repeater antenna,
but I also enjoy experimentation. Sometimes it even pays
off! Failure is always a possibility, but if you don't try
you won't succeed. This thing has just been laying around,
so...
Paul
On Saturday 30 October 2004 05:19 pm, Joe
On Saturday 30 October 2004 04:29 pm, Chuck Kelsey wrote:
Between 0.85 to 0.95 wavelength, center to center.
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: Paul Kelley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 3:46 PM
Subject: [Repeater
On Sunday 31 October 2004 10:59 am, Tony lelieveld wrote:
This sounds like a very interesting project. As I
somehow missed the start of this thread please let me/us
know what the original project plan is and where it came
from.
http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/wa6svt.html
Paul
Recently when I said I was building one of these, some folks
wanted my evaluation of it when it was completed. I've
misplaced your emails (I hate when that happens!) so will
post it here and hope Kevin doesn't mind.
I built a 10 element UHF version. One minor concern: I
couldn't change the
OK, I know the major response to this is going to be forget
it and buy the right antenna. but I will blunder in
and ask this anyway.
Question: does anyone know the center to center dipole
spacing for a DB264-A (150 - 160 MHz) antenna?
I'm trying to evaluate whether it is feasible to
I have used TS-32, TS-32P, and TS-64 boards and notice about
the same thing. The 64 is noticeably faster but still slow
enough to chop the first word. I added a digital audio
delay which eliminates the problem. The first couple
hundred milliseconds of audio i s saved until the TS-64
has
On Thursday 07 October 2004 06:47 pm, Kevin Custer wrote:
Correct. Plus, it *can* be longer than 1/4 wave. Many
commercial manufacturers actually use the large aluminum
mounting tube at the bottom of the antenna for the
decoupling sleeve.
Thanks.
About 20 years ago Radio Shack sold
I finally got around to constructing my first coaxial
collinear as per:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/wa6svt.html
(and using a few of Kevin's ideas)
I have a question for those who have built these. Referring
to step 9 and figure 4, I assume the decoupling sleeve
connects a *true*
Excellent explanation Eric. This is what I was getting at
when I suggested he try different cable lengths, but you
explained it much better.
I went through this on a 2 meter repeater once. It took a
couple of hours but I arrived at a cable length that got
the matching about right and the PA
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