VACList-Digest Saturday, February 9, 2002 Issue 207
Today's Topics:
1. Re: '58 Overlander 12 v Bulbs
2. Re: '58 Overlander 12 v Bulbs
3. Question about penetrating epoxy
4. Re: Question about penetrating epoxy
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Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2002 20:48:33 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '58 Overlander 12 v Bulbs
Also try :
http://www.realgoods.com/renew/
(was Jade Mountain, my favorite store after Home Despot)
Daisy
James Greene wrote:
>
> Ted, I see 12 volt screw in type light bulbs in RV stores. I don't think
> they are that hard to find. I haven't looked but Camping World, Campers
> Choice and other stores may have them.
>
> Jim Greene
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Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 00:08:55 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '58 Overlander 12 v Bulbs
Wow! I would have never guessed these things were so readily available.
All I can say is Thank You, again, for all of the replies to this
question. I'm going to get a pair to use while hooked up to the truck.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
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Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 00:55:13 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Question about penetrating epoxy
Greetings all,
Now that the electrical in the Overlander is operating, I turned my
attention today to the plumbing. The aluminum shower/toilet combination
was in serious need of sealing. I noticed the floor outside of the
shower was a little spongy, so I took out the shower today to assess the
damage. It's not as bad as it could be, but it's not great either. I
knew that there had been problems in this area due to the copious
amounts of silicone rubber smeared all over the seams in the shower and
toilet stand. I disassembled the shower, pulled up the new sheet vinyl,
and there it was...floor rot, of course. Luckily, it's not spongy enough
to push my finger, or even a pocket knife, all the way through it, but
it is soft, and it looks like the plywood has serious delamination. I've
read the archives, and seeing how others have solved this problem, I'm
going to use penetrating epoxy. However, I have several questions that I
didn't see covered in the hundreds of posts on the subjects.
1. Due to the delamination, I think it's wise to follow the advice about
drilling holes into the floor. I think the holes would be required to
ensure that the epoxy penetrates all layers and has a chance to
thoroughly fill in between the delaminating layers. Does anyone concur
with this analysis? Or is the stuff wet and powerful enough to soak
through all of the layers without the holes?
2. If the holes are required, how many should I drill? I'm thinking that
a matrix pattern would probably be best to ensure good penetration, but
how should I space the matrix? A 2" or 3" grid pattern is my gut
feeling. Is this too large? Too small?
3. Looking up from below (sans belly pan), the delamination goes all the
way to the rusting frame. Again, if holes are required, should I drill
them all the way through the floor, and scab a piece of plywood to the
floor from below? Or should I (try to) drill through all but the last
layer of plywood?
4. Is the epoxy alone enough to restore strength to the floor? Should I
also scab a piece of 1/4" plywood over the repaired floor afterward, or
would this be over engineering the solution?
Since I'm in the middle of this project, and there seems to be a large
number of people who ask about this topic, I'd like to put together a
How-To guide illustrating the process. I'll take the responses I've read
in the archives, the responses I receive from this post, combine them
with pictures of the before, during, and after treatment, and make them
available to anyone (RJ?) with web space to present it. Unless, of
course, something like this already exists. :)
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
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Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 19:13:22 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Question about penetrating epoxy
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I have fdescussed thie onthis list and the other Airstream list previously. I
am happy to add my 2 cents worth .
#1you are correct that it is best to drill a grid of holes about 3/16 in
would be about right I would use a 11/2 grid I would use a stop block to
prevent going all the way through.The ability to soak througr is some
liminated depending on the condition and type of wood it will howeaver travle
in the endgrain quite well du to capilarity action.
If the rot is near the edge of the trailer I would tilt the trailer slightly
to insure that it goes into the channel and seals the end grin to prevent
futher damage. If you have removed all the floor crovering I would pore
pinitrating epoxy allthe way around the trailerso that you will seal the
endgrain all the way around the trailer it is good insurance to prevent
future rot which most generaly starts from water pinitrating unsealed
endgrain. When pouring on the pinitrating epoxy watch it carefully and keep
adding on the rotten aera until the wood will not asorb any more.
The treatment aftward depends how bad the floor is. I would at least craver
the aera with a layer of fiberglass cloth. Rember that pinitrating epoxy is
not to be used for laminating. Also it is not a cureall it has a limination
but it has mabe our life a lot eaiser has made possable repairs that in the
past were imnpossable.
Ouer engineering is better than underkill.
My advise is not to buy the trade names that are all over the country all
brands of epoxies are basicly the same there are only a couple of manifacturs
of epoxies.
Good luck
Jim Smith
1992 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I have fdescussed thie onthis list and the other Airstream list
previously. I am happy to add my 2 cents worth .<BR>
#1you are correct that it is best to drill a grid of holes about 3/16 in would be
about right I would use a 11/2 grid I would use a stop block to prevent going all the
way through.The ability to soak througr is some liminated depending on the condition
anIf the rot is near the edge of the trailer I would tilt the trailer slightly to
insure that it goes into the channel and seals the end grin to prevent futher damage.
If you have removed all the floor crovering I would pore pinitrating epoxy allthe way
aroThe treatment aftward depends how bad the floor is. I would at least craver the
aera with a layer of fiberglass cloth. Rember that pinitrating epoxy is not to be used
for laminating. Also it is not a cureall it has a limination but it has mabe our life
a Ouer engineering is better than underkill.<BR>
My advise is not to buy the trade names that are all over the country all brands of
epoxies are basicly the same there are only a couple of manifacturs of epoxies.<BR>
Good luck<BR>
Jim Smith<BR>
1992 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)</P></FONT></HTML>
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End of VACList-Digest #207
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