VACList-Digest Saturday, February 2, 2002 Issue 200
Today's Topics:
1. Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
2. Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
3. Re:
4. Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
5. Re:
6. Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
7. Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
8. Does Distance Make a Difference?
9. 1965 17' Caravel
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 20:52:51 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
I have a stock '76 and every light in the trailer is 12 vdc. It has a 40
amp 12 VDC power supply for when your in an RV park with firm power. I
should expect a '60 would be that wat too.
On Fri, 1 Feb 2002, Scott Scheuermann wrote:
> Ted,
>
> As the owner of a '60 Overlander you have roused my curiosity.
>
> You don't have ANY 12V? Has this trailer undergone a complete interior
> rebuild? I was under the impression that at the very least you should have a
> couple of light fixtures with 2 bulbs in them (one being 12V) and a 12V air
> pump to pressurize the water tank. You say that the wiring harness was
> connected to a 120V wire---are you absolutely sure that this is not a 12V
> wire? Where does this wire go? I would trace it to find out.
>
> About the brakes, most likely you have electric brakes, but there is a
> possibility that you have hydraulic ones. Try pulling a wheel and brake drum
> if you have any doubts as to which you have. If you have electric there
> should be a wire that runs from the harness to the wheels as well as a
> magnet at each wheel to activate the brakes.
>
> About the color convention...back in '58 it may not have existed. They
> definitely had a different wiring convention.
>
> Scott
> 1960 Overlander
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 2:12 AM
> Subject: [VAC] '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
>
>
> > Greetings all,
> >
> > I spent the last week installing a new 7-pin wiring harness on the
> > Overlander, discovering in the process that whoever wired the last
> > harness disregarded the color convention. No real surprise there. After
> > a bit of analysis and probing, I at least have the marker, license
> > plate, tail, turn, and brake lights working. That's four of the seven
> > wires accounted for. :) I know there are no reverse lights on my coach,
> > so the yellow aux. line from the harness is just going to get a wire
> > nut. I have no battery, or 12v appliances/lights, so what, if anything,
> > do I do with the charge line? It was connected to what looks like the
> > solid copper 110v wiring, which didn't seem wise, so I've disconnected
> > it. Lastly, I have the blue brake line left from the harness to figure
> > out.
> >
> > Now, I have three wires on the trailer side without corresponding wires
> > coming from the harness. I have a small, black, probably 18 gauge or
> > smaller wire (similar to the wire used for the running lights) which the
> > brake line was connected to, though I doubt it's brakes, and I haven't
> > been able to figure out where it goes, or what to do with it. The other
> > two in the trailer are green and yellow, heavier gauge, and the pair are
> > encased within a red sheath. My guess is that these are the brake wires,
> > though I'm confused about how I should connect them to the harness.
> > Would I connect the blue brake line to one, and the charge line to the
> > other? Or is one a ground? The prior owner had the auxiliary line
> > connected to the green wire, and the ground line connected to the yellow
> > wire.
> >
> > Anyone out there with a late 50's model have a pair of similarly
> > colored, heavy gauge wires in a red sheath like this? Any and all
> > advice would be greatly appreciated!! I would like to apologize for the
> > number of posts I've sent over the last week. I hope I'm not being too
> > much of a pain in everyone's butt.
> >
> > Thanks for your time!
> >
> > --
> > Ted Byrd
> > '58 Overlander
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 01:58:40 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
Hey Scott,
Thanks for the reply!
At some point in time after 1958, somebody rewired the coach with a 7
pin Bargman plug. Even though the plug had the colors clearly marked,
they chose to disregard them. Luckily I was able to salvage the old plug
from the trash before it was taken away, and it proved to provide a bit
of insight. Anyway, that's a long story, suffice it to say, some people
should not do their own wiring. ;)
I bought a digital multimeter from Radio Shack. Using that, and the old
plug, I was able to make some sense out of the situation. It seems that
all of the running lights, turn/stop lights, and the license plate light
are wired with plain black 18 gauge wire. As I said in my prior post,
that left the two wires in the red sheath, one yellow, and one green.
The backing plates do have wires running into them, not hydraulic lines,
so I knew I had electric brakes. Taking a chance, I wired up a ground
connection to one of the suspected brake wires (the yellow one, and the
location corresponding to the ground pin on the old plug, wired with
green wire in the old harness, of course) and while my girlfriend
listened at each wheel, hit the remaining wire with the charge line. I
got a large blueish-green spark off the wire, and she heard distinct
clicks at each hub. It seems whoever wired this thing ran the one and
only ground from the harness to the brakes. I guess that explains the
two wires bolted into the A-frame, one going to the old, metal plug
case, the other with an alligator clip on the end.
I put a new 10 gauge wire into the frame, and used a 3-way butt
connector to connect the harness and brake grounds to that. Tada! After
a few minor ground issues with the rusted tail lights, we have the
wiring completely working tonight!! When I plug the harness in, I get a
continuity LED on the Ultima 2020 brake controller, and hitting the
brakes registers 11.9 to 12.1 amperes on the brake controller display. I
have new Dexter rims with tires coming Monday after next to replace the
split rims, and I didn't want to mess with pulling the hubs apart until
then.
As for the 12V system. Nope, I'm pretty sure I don't have ANY 12V. I
still haven't found a battery, or any evidence of one ever being
installed. With the exception of a new toilet, maybe a new water tank, a
new water heater, and soft goods, this trailer is completely original.
It still has the original 2 prong, bakelite Bargman receptacle on the
outside leading to a fuse box on the opposite, interior side. All of the
light fixtures, with original glass covers and asbestos shades, are 120V
to my knowledge. They have standard screw sockets, with a white and
black pair of solid copper wires running to them. Do 12V lights use
standard light sockets? There are no 12V "cigarette lighter" sockets
anywhere in the coach, just two prong receptacles.
The only pressurization facility for the water system is a valve stem
mounted on the exterior of the water tank inlet. I even have what is
supposed to be the original 50's vintage bicycle pump used to pressurize
the system. For some reason, they wired the charge line to the 120V
system. Am I sure this is a 120V wire? I'm not sure of much with regard
to the wiring in this coach, but, it is solid strand copper, one black,
one white, twisted together with an old style wire nut, and the charge
line WAS connected to this pair. I haven't traced it out yet. While the
person from whom I purchased the coach did have it plugged in, with the
lights and his computer working inside of it, I haven't plugged it into
an AC source since bringing it home. We'll see what blows up next. ;)
I suspect that while boondocking in those days, they used the propane
lamp, air pressurized water system, and a gopher hole.
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> As the owner of a '60 Overlander you have roused my curiosity.
>
> You don't have ANY 12V? Has this trailer undergone a complete interior
> rebuild? I was under the impression that at the very least you should have a
> couple of light fixtures with 2 bulbs in them (one being 12V) and a 12V air
> pump to pressurize the water tank. You say that the wiring harness was
> connected to a 120V wire---are you absolutely sure that this is not a 12V
> wire? Where does this wire go? I would trace it to find out.
>
> About the brakes, most likely you have electric brakes, but there is a
> possibility that you have hydraulic ones. Try pulling a wheel and brake drum
> if you have any doubts as to which you have. If you have electric there
> should be a wire that runs from the harness to the wheels as well as a
> magnet at each wheel to activate the brakes.
>
> About the color convention...back in '58 it may not have existed. They
> definitely had a different wiring convention.
>
> Scott
> 1960 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 13:30:47
From: "Doug Green" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Re: Pensacola, FL Airstream Park</P>
<P>Did someone post tha there was an Airstream Park in Pensacola, FL? If so
would it be possible to get that info privately or posted again? <A
href="http:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> Thank
You.</P>
<P>Sue Green</P>
<P>'55 Safari<BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a
href='http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_etl_EN.asp'>http://explorer.msn.com</a>.<br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 09:28:13 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
In the old days, there were Park models that were not intended for
boondocking, only for use in parks with 120 volt plug ins.
18 gauge is a bit small for 12 volt marker lights. Especially for a
group of them.
The big spark when disconnecting the power from the brake wire is from
the inductive kick of the brake coils. None of the other trailer
circuits will have that big fat spark when disconnecting, though they
may have a little spark.
There are 12 volt lamps that fit 120 volt sockets. Most commonly in a 50
watt rating. If you use them, be sure to remove them when switching to
120 volts. They will not survive accidental 120 volt application and may
damage wiring, switches, and sockets in the process. And the wiring
needs to be larger gauge wire than used for the 120 volt lamps, unless
its already 12 or 14 gauge.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 11:26:07 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
--=====================_13123901==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Sue:
Their web link is
http://geocities.com/mystic-springs
- Dick
(5368)
At 01:30 PM 2/2/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Re: Pensacola, FL Airstream Park
>
>Did someone post tha there was an Airstream Park in Pensacola, FL? If so
>would it be possible to get that info privately or posted
>again? <http:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED] Thank You.
>
>Sue Green
>
>'55 Safari
>
>
>
>
>----------
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com.
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html When replying to a message,
>please delete all unnecessary original text
"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over.
Why should you and I?"
-Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
--=====================_13123901==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
<html>
Sue:<br><br>
<x-tab> </x-tab>Their web
link is<br><br>
<font color="#0000FF"><u><a href="http://geocities.com/mystic-springs";
eudora="autourl">http://geocities.com/mystic-springs</a><br><br>
</u></font>- Dick<br>
(5368)<br><br>
<br>
At 01:30 PM 2/2/2002 +0000, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Re: Pensacola, FL Airstream
Park<br><br>
Did someone post tha there was an Airstream Park in Pensacola, FL?
If so would it be possible to get that info privately or posted
again?
<a href="http:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</a>
Thank You.<br><br>
Sue Green<br><br>
'55 Safari<br><br>
<br><br>
<hr>
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
<a href="'http://go.msn.com/bql/hmtag_etl_en.asp'">http://explorer.msn.com</a>.<br>
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
<a href="http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html";
eudora="autourl">http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html</a>
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text </blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over.<br>
Why should you and I?"<br>
-Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)<br>
---------------------------------------<br>
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672<br>
Retired and loving it!<br>
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella<br>
Atlanta<br>
<a href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";
eudora="autourl">mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<br>
</a><a href="http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/";
eudora="autourl">http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/</a></html>
--=====================_13123901==_.ALT--
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2002 11:29:58 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
"Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote:
>
> In the old days, there were Park models that were not intended for
> boondocking, only for use in parks with 120 volt plug ins.
I suppose we may have a Park Model then. Would that be the only
difference? Hopefully it's as well built as the others, cause we intend
to drag this thing all over the country. :)
> 18 gauge is a bit small for 12 volt marker lights. Especially for a
> group of them.
I thought so too, but the insulation on the wires looks fine...just as
supple as the day it was installed, and no signs of melting. Wouldn't a
1958 coach have been running on 6 volts from the car? Anyway, I'm not
going to rewire the marker lights.
> The big spark when disconnecting the power from the brake wire is from
> the inductive kick of the brake coils. None of the other trailer
> circuits will have that big fat spark when disconnecting, though they
> may have a little spark.
Yep, I was pretty sure when I saw the spark that we'd have contact at
the brake magnets. The other wires just sizzle quietly. Ain't
electricity fun? ;)
> There are 12 volt lamps that fit 120 volt sockets. Most commonly in a 50
> watt rating. If you use them, be sure to remove them when switching to
> 120 volts. They will not survive accidental 120 volt application and may
> damage wiring, switches, and sockets in the process. And the wiring
> needs to be larger gauge wire than used for the 120 volt lamps, unless
> its already 12 or 14 gauge.
Interesting. That may be what's going on here then. It does look like
the wire is about 12 gauge, though solid copper, rather than copper
strand. Taking off the cover last night, I notice there is only bulb in
the overhead lights, maybe that's a clue.
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 15:47:15 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring
Airstream never made a "park model". Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 17:08:15 -0500
From: "Edward Emerick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Does Distance Make a Difference?
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Hello All,
I have to replace my Airstream Univolt III in my 68 Sovereign, or at
least I think so. The current unit does what it is supposed to do,
provide power to charge the battery, however it overcharges because it
does not have some kind of shut off when the battery is fully charged.
So I kill batteries by over charging by not paying attention to how long
the converter is on. All I know is we turn it on, get busy with
something and start cooking the battery. So before I buy new batteries I
have to purchase a new converter (I know that an inverter is better but
the difference in $$$$ for an inverter is not in the budget this year!).
Now for the question; to add an additional battery to the system I need
to move them from the rear of the coach to under the bed mid coach which
will add about 12 feet to the current wiring, is this going to cause a
problem? I am worried about the reduction in effectiveness of the
charging system by increasing the distance from the converter to the
batteries.
A new converter will have an automatic shut off to keep me from cooking
the new batteries and the new batteries will be AGM or gelcell to keep
from killing us from their placement in a non-vented area.
Also any recommendations of converters or battery brands will be
gratefully accepted!
Ed
WBCCI/VAC 4425
68 Sovereign (needing a new batteries and converter)
59 Traveler (needing more than a converter at the moment)
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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Hello All,<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>I have to replace my Airstream <span =
class=3DSpellE>Univolt</span>
III in my 68 Sovereign, or at least I think so. The current unit does =
what it
is supposed to do, provide power to charge the battery, however it =
overcharges because
it does not have some kind of shut off when the battery is fully =
charged. So I
kill batteries by over charging by not paying attention to how long the
converter is on. All I know is we turn it <span class=3DGramE>on,</span> =
get busy
with something and start cooking the battery. So before I buy new =
batteries I
have to purchase a new converter (I know that an inverter is better but =
the difference
in $$$$ for an inverter is not in the budget this =
year!).<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Now for the question; to add an additional battery to =
the
system I need to move them from the rear of the coach to under the bed =
mid
coach which will add about 12 feet to the current wiring, is this going =
to cause
a problem? I am worried about the reduction in effectiveness of the =
charging
system by increasing the distance from the converter to the =
batteries.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>A new converter will have an automatic shut off to =
keep me
from cooking the new batteries and the new batteries will be <span
class=3DSpellE>AGM</span> or <span class=3DSpellE>gelcell</span> to keep =
from
killing us from their placement in a non-vented =
area.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Also any recommendations of converters or battery =
brands
will be gratefully accepted!<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Ed<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DSpellE><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>WBCCI/VAC</span></font></spa=
n><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'> =
4425<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>68 Sovereign (needing a new batteries and =
converter)<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>59 Traveler (needing more than a converter at the =
moment)<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
</div>
</body>
</html>
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Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2002 19:09:04 -0500
From: "Whitlow Wyatt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1965 17' Caravel
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I need the correct part number, and source for ordering shocks for my =
Caravel.
Any help appreciated.
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I need the correct part number, and =
source for=20
ordering shocks for my Caravel.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help =
appreciated.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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