VACList-Digest Tuesday, February 19, 2002 Issue 217
Today's Topics:
1. hotwater heater
2. Re: Axle Maintenance and Shocks '68 Cravel
3. Re: hotwater heater
4. Re: Bathroom Plastic advice
5. Galvanic Action
6. Re: Bathroom Plastic advice
7. Re: Galvanic Action
8. Re: Galvanic Action
9. Re: Galvanic Action
10. New website about our 63 Globetrotter
11. Vintage Clip Art
12. Re: Galvanic Action
13. Re: Galvanic Action
14. Re: New website about our 63 Globetrotter
15. Re: New website about our 63 Globetrotter
16. counter tops
17. Re: counter tops
18. Re: counter tops
19. Re: hotwater heater
20. Re: [A/S] Engine Pre-luber
21. Re: Tracing previous ownership
22. Re: Galvanic Action
23. Courtesy Parking
24. Re: Sarasota Rally
25. Re: counter tops
26. Water Heater Continued
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 19:06:01 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: hotwater heater
If the weather holds up we are taking the A/S up to San Antonio for a few
days this weekend. I brought the trailer home just to check it out after
setting through the winter, and everything checks out except the hot water
heater. I can light the pilot light and turn it to on, but after a few
minutes, the both the flame and the pilot light go off. I can re-light the
pilot and star all over but again after a few minutes the flame and pilot go
out. I have plenty of propane and I have switched from one tank to the
other. The range top works fine. I think it might be the pilot light sensor
that has gone bad . Any suggestions. Thanks
Don Hardman
1976 Sovereign.
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:16:48 -0700
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Axle Maintenance and Shocks '68 Cravel
Jeff,
Airstream's part number is 022003. The shock is made by Gabriel
exclusively for Airstream.
Charlie
Jeff Griffin wrote:
> Hello airstream gurus:
>
> I think I have a Dura Torque (sp?) axle on my 1968 Caravel. I have to
> two questions.
>
> 1. What, if any, lubrication is necessary for the axle?
>
> 2. What is an OEM and product number for the shocks?
>
> Thanks in Advance
>
> Jeff
>
>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: Click Here
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html When replying to a
> message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 20:49:57 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: hotwater heater
Don,
It could be the thermocouple as you surmise. I'd try loosening the
thermocouple connection with the appropiate wrench, then tightening it
again.
You could also remove the connection, spray it with some WD-40,
Corrosion-X, or whatever, then reconnect it.
It doesn't have to be super-tight, just a bit more than 'snug'.
<<Jim>>
Don Hardman wrote:
> If the weather holds up we are taking the A/S up to San Antonio for a few
> days this weekend. I brought the trailer home just to check it out after
> setting through the winter, and everything checks out except the hot water
> heater. I can light the pilot light and turn it to on, but after a few
> minutes, the both the flame and the pilot light go off. I can re-light the
> pilot and star all over but again after a few minutes the flame and pilot go
> out. I have plenty of propane and I have switched from one tank to the
> other. The range top works fine. I think it might be the pilot light sensor
> that has gone bad . Any suggestions. Thanks
>
> Don Hardman
> 1976 Sovereign.
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:58:46 -0700
From: "Beth Browning" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bathroom Plastic advice
Hi:
My name is Beth and I have just received the fabulous gift of a 1970
Airstream Sovereign from my wonderful son Stephen and husband Jim as a
Valentine's gift!!
Much of her (about 85%) is intact and original (new working fridge and lack
of any living room furniture are the main alterations).
She is the cream with gold fleck and 70's garish green wall upholstery and
kitchen formica with a lemon yellow bathroom. Her formerly lemon-yellow
bathroom tub was covered with random HERSHEY chocolate brown colored-stains
all over the base with wretched stains of same scattered over her sink,
counter and toilet seating area. I thought these stains were embedded into
the plastic, but wanted to attempt restoration.
I have spent about 20 hours online since Wednesday night gleaning the
excellent resources of Tom, Shirley, Vintage Airstream, Phred, this VAC
archive, etc....I am a PURE NOVICE, but here is my early result:
After 8 hours of scrubbing the past 3 afternoons, her bathroom is gleaming
and gorgeous, back to her original if slightly sun-faded happy lemon yellow
with almost NO HINT of staining! If anyone is interested, I can email
before and after photos of these miraculous results (humility is over-rated
when you've spent 8 hours scrubbing a former owners toilet!!)
I highly recommend these two products:
1) Zap! to cut through the tough aged dark crusty grime. You MUST rinse the
Zap well with much water to avoid stains re-emerging. Zap! is available at
Bed, Bath and Beyond for $7.00 for 16 oz. It is a dilute of muriatic acid,
specially developed for cleaning plastic shower stalls, so wear gloves.
2)Power Paste; an orange oil based cleanser, to detail/refine cleaning and
polish away slighter stains.Smells nice too. Also available at Bed, Bath
Beyond.
I will be posting most likely for advice, but am happy to pass on any
helpful ideas I come across. The Vintage Airstream community is so friendly
and outreach-oriented....many thanks to all of you who've shared your
knowledge and advice online.
beth
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 6
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 05:15:14 -0500
> From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: bathroom plastic
>
> Hi, My 67 GT bathroom plastic is faded and stained. My question is: Can
> this plastic be sanded primed and painted? If so, what type of paint and
> primer will work? Thanks for a response. Dave
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 19:23:16 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Galvanic Action
Greetings,
I have a question regarding galvanic action that I'd like to pose to the
group. All of the screws on the exterior of our '58 Overlander are
rusty. I've slowly been replacing these with new stainless steel, but I
recently read that stainless can react with the aluminum, causing it to
corrode. Is there any truth to this? If so, I'd much rather have screws
that will rust, than to risk damage to the skins. Also, if this is true,
what is the best type of screw to use, zinc?
Thanks!
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 21:26:10 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bathroom Plastic advice
Congratulation, Beth, on your acquisition, great son and husband and grand
success in renewing the bath in your Airstream. I can tell you are going to
be a terrific addition to this list. I'm glad to be among the many who will
welcome you and your participation.
Regards,
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beth Browning" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 20:58
Subject: [VAC] Re: Bathroom Plastic advice
> Hi:
>
> My name is Beth and I have just received the fabulous gift of a 1970
> Airstream Sovereign from my wonderful son Stephen and husband Jim as a
> Valentine's gift!!
>
> Much of her (about 85%) is intact and original (new working fridge and
lack
> of any living room furniture are the main alterations).
>
> She is the cream with gold fleck and 70's garish green wall upholstery and
> kitchen formica with a lemon yellow bathroom. Her formerly lemon-yellow
> bathroom tub was covered with random HERSHEY chocolate brown
colored-stains
> all over the base with wretched stains of same scattered over her sink,
> counter and toilet seating area. I thought these stains were embedded
into
> the plastic, but wanted to attempt restoration.
>
> I have spent about 20 hours online since Wednesday night gleaning the
> excellent resources of Tom, Shirley, Vintage Airstream, Phred, this VAC
> archive, etc....I am a PURE NOVICE, but here is my early result:
> After 8 hours of scrubbing the past 3 afternoons, her bathroom is gleaming
> and gorgeous, back to her original if slightly sun-faded happy lemon
yellow
> with almost NO HINT of staining! If anyone is interested, I can email
> before and after photos of these miraculous results (humility is
over-rated
> when you've spent 8 hours scrubbing a former owners toilet!!)
>
> I highly recommend these two products:
>
> 1) Zap! to cut through the tough aged dark crusty grime. You MUST rinse
the
> Zap well with much water to avoid stains re-emerging. Zap! is available
at
> Bed, Bath and Beyond for $7.00 for 16 oz. It is a dilute of muriatic
acid,
> specially developed for cleaning plastic shower stalls, so wear gloves.
> 2)Power Paste; an orange oil based cleanser, to detail/refine cleaning and
> polish away slighter stains.Smells nice too. Also available at Bed, Bath
> Beyond.
>
> I will be posting most likely for advice, but am happy to pass on any
> helpful ideas I come across. The Vintage Airstream community is so
friendly
> and outreach-oriented....many thanks to all of you who've shared your
> knowledge and advice online.
>
> beth
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 6
> > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 05:15:14 -0500
> > From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: bathroom plastic
> >
> > Hi, My 67 GT bathroom plastic is faded and stained. My question is:
Can
> > this plastic be sanded primed and painted? If so, what type of paint
and
> > primer will work? Thanks for a response. Dave
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
>
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 20:39:19 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Galvanic Action
Aluminmu screws are good. And available. All steels, stainless or not
will make a battery with the aluminum and that leads to corrosion.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 20:08:19 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Galvanic Action
"Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote:
>
> Aluminmu screws are good. And available. All steels, stainless or not
> will make a battery with the aluminum and that leads to corrosion.
So, will the stainless corrode the aluminum, or will the aluminum
corrode the stainless? Or, will they both corrode? I don't really mind
if the screws corrode, but I do care if the aluminum corrodes.
On our Overlander there are about 50 screws that hold on the fridge and
heater vents, do aluminum screws have what it takes to hold these things
down? I assume aluminum screws would be fine for marker lights, and
other light weight items.
Thanks for the info Doc.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 21:26:20 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Galvanic Action
I use stainles steel screws for assembling aluminum ham radio antennas.
Have for decades. I've detected no damage to either aluminum or
stainless steel. That's decades in the weather.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 21:28:45 -0600
From: H Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: New website about our 63 Globetrotter
This list, the VAC website and a few other Airstream web pages hooked us
on Airstreams. After watching and looking for a suitable Airstream we
lucked into a 63 Globetrotter exactly one year ago. It had a few
problems but not bad enough to keep us from being able to use it about
30 nights over the last year. I have now loaded some of our pictures
onto a web site that details our "adventure" with this Airstream over
the last year. Its at :
www.nwflorida.net/gt.htm
Herb Spies
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 23:14:26 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Vintage Clip Art
In a message dated 2/18/02 4:27:33 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Does anyone know of a source for free (or very inexpensive) vintage
Airstream "Clip-Art"?
I was thinking of printing up business cards to take when I go out camping,
as I always seem to be scribbling my e-mail address on a scrap of paper for
someone who admired my vintage Airstream :-) >>
Dave;
Yeah, there is somewhere....but a lot of folks take a photo of their unit and
run off business cards with that on it...just an fyi.
Wendy
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 04:21:35 +0000
From: "Frank M. 'Mitch' Hill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Galvanic Action
At 19:23 02/18/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>Greetings,
>
>I have a question regarding galvanic action that I'd like to pose to the
>group. All of the screws on the exterior of our '58 Overlander are
>rusty. I've slowly been replacing these with new stainless steel, but I
>recently read that stainless can react with the aluminum, causing it to
>corrode. Is there any truth to this? If so, I'd much rather have screws
>that will rust, than to risk damage to the skins. Also, if this is true,
>what is the best type of screw to use, zinc?
.
Ted Byrd,
Based on what the marine industries have learned over the years, 316 stainless
screws (most stainless hardware is 316 stainless) are your best choice for use
in aluminum where a aluminum fastener is not strong enough.
Any metallic fastener will have some reaction with aluminum, even a
aluminum fastener of a slightly different alloy. In the case of zinc plated
steel in aluminum, zinc is sacrificial. The zinc goes away quite quickly
leaving raw steel behind to rust and stain. Stainless is preferred... I
refer you to a commonly used design tool in the marine industry, the chart
of nobility of metals...
In extremely critical applications such as marine instrument housings that
are intended to be under water in the ocean for long periods of time,
plastic washers and bushings are used to separate the metals. However in
any application where continuos submersion is not an issue, stainless in
aluminum is acceptable. I refer you to the construction of outboard motors.
If you are concerned about corrosion and electrolyses, there are aluminum
particle based anti-seize compounds readily available, "a little dab will
do ya" ...
As a Airstream will not be submerged, (hopefully), the use of stainless screws
should have minimal opportunity for galvanic reaction compared to any other
fastener outside of aluminum fasteners, such reaction should be very
slight, I don't think its a issue. I am replacing any screws in my '64 with
stainless as I remove rusty hardware. Keeping a Airstream on Cape Cod is
the next worst thing
to having a submerged Airstream...
TNX, 73, Mitch - WA1YKN
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 21:35:01 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Galvanic Action
"Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote:
>
> I use stainles steel screws for assembling aluminum ham radio antennas.
> Have for decades. I've detected no damage to either aluminum or
> stainless steel. That's decades in the weather.
Okay, good to know! Some days it seems like we take two steps back for
every one forward. Today was not one of those days. ;)
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 22:24:40 -0700
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: New website about our 63 Globetrotter
Great site Herb!
Really nice trailer with an interesting history.
I took particular interest in your axle replacement. Looks like I need to
replace both of mine. (Oct-Dec 01)
Take Care
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "H Spies" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 8:28 PM
Subject: [VAC] New website about our 63 Globetrotter
> This list, the VAC website and a few other Airstream web pages hooked us
> on Airstreams. After watching and looking for a suitable Airstream we
> lucked into a 63 Globetrotter exactly one year ago. It had a few
> problems but not bad enough to keep us from being able to use it about
> 30 nights over the last year. I have now loaded some of our pictures
> onto a web site that details our "adventure" with this Airstream over
> the last year. Its at :
>
> www.nwflorida.net/gt.htm
>
> Herb Spies
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 06:50:55 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: New website about our 63 Globetrotter
Herb, You don't wonder why my son and his family live in Grand Juction,
CO. The San Juan Forest is nearby and he can reach his business in the 7
Western states from there.
Winter they ski, Summer they camp and fish.
On Mon, 18 Feb 2002, H Spies wrote:
> This list, the VAC website and a few other Airstream web pages hooked us
> on Airstreams. After watching and looking for a suitable Airstream we
> lucked into a 63 Globetrotter exactly one year ago. It had a few
> problems but not bad enough to keep us from being able to use it about
> 30 nights over the last year. I have now loaded some of our pictures
> onto a web site that details our "adventure" with this Airstream over
> the last year. Its at :
>
> www.nwflorida.net/gt.htm
>
> Herb Spies
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.zianet.com/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:22:53 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: counter tops
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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The formica? countertops on my '60 Overlander are starting to =
delaminate. I guess that after 42 years the glue is loosing its stick. =
Is there some way to repair the counters without pulling everything out =
and starting over?
Scott
------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C1B92F.640168E0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The formica? countertops on my '60 =
Overlander are=20
starting to delaminate. I guess that after 42 years the glue is loosing =
its=20
stick. Is there some way to repair the counters without pulling =
everything out=20
and starting over?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Scott</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:51:14 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: counter tops
--part1_16d.90efc5d.29a3ce72_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
In a message dated 2/19/2002 10:34:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> The formica? countertops on my '60 Overlander are starting to delaminate. I
> guess that after 42 years the glue is loosing its stick. Is there some way
> to repair the counters without pulling everything out and starting over?
>
Scott,
Sometimes they can be repaired if the conditions are right. If the edges are
coming up you can gently pry up the laminate and brush some contact cement in
between. Only pry as much as the gap will let you, any over prying and the
laminate will crack. After it dries clamp over the whole area over night. If
it is coming up in the middle I have successfully drilled a hole up thru the
substraight and injected contact cement up and under the lift. Then clamp by
exerting downward pressure for 24 hr. or longer. Be very careful not to drill
thru the laminate. I ground a drill bit down to give a flat bottomed hole. If
the substraight is swelling or delimitating replacement would be the best
bet. This may be more info than you need, but here it is.
J.L.Dietz #4361
--part1_16d.90efc5d.29a3ce72_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>In a message dated 2/19/2002 10:34:13
AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR>
The formica? countertops on my '60 Overlander are starting to delaminate. I guess that
after 42 years the glue is loosing its stick. Is there some way to repair the counters
without pulling everything out and starting over?</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000"
st</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2
FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> <BR>
<BR>
Scott,<BR>
<BR>
Sometimes they can be repaired if the conditions are right. If the edges are coming up
you can gently pry up the laminate and brush some contact cement in between. Only pry
as much as the gap will let you, any over prying and the laminate will crack. Afte<BR>
J.L.Dietz #4361</FONT></HTML>
--part1_16d.90efc5d.29a3ce72_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:53:02 -0500
From: Garnett C Horner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: counter tops
--=====================_612170156==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Scott,
I took the countertop off in my 60 Caravanner. Inside the cabinetry,
there are screws at an angle going up through the wood frame and into the
plywood top. I also had an aluminum trim piece along the rear of the
counter. Removing this piece reveals some more fasteners Removing all
screws, the plumbing from the sink, and the sheet metal around the stove
should let the top lift off. . IMO, the old tops are not worth
repairing. I took the old top to a kitchen cabinet shop and they made a
new top using the old one as a template.
Garnett
60 Caravanner
WDCU, OBX Rally, Aug. 15-18
At 10:22 AM 2/19/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>The formica? countertops on my '60 Overlander are starting to delaminate.
>I guess that after 42 years the glue is loosing its stick. Is there some
>way to repair the counters without pulling everything out and starting over?
>
>Scott
--=====================_612170156==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
<html>
Scott,<br>
I took the countertop off in my 60 Caravanner. Inside the
cabinetry, there are screws at an angle going up through the wood frame
and into the plywood top. I also had an aluminum trim piece along
the rear of the counter. Removing this piece reveals some more
fasteners Removing all screws, the plumbing from the sink, and the
sheet metal around the stove should let the top lift off. .
IMO, the old tops are not worth repairing. I took the old top to a
kitchen cabinet shop and they made a new top using the old one as a
template.<br><br>
Garnett<br>
60 Caravanner<br>
WDCU, OBX Rally, Aug. 15-18<br><br>
At 10:22 AM 2/19/2002 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font face="arial" size=2>The
formica? countertops on my '60 Overlander are starting to delaminate. I
guess that after 42 years the glue is loosing its stick. Is there some
way to repair the counters without pulling everything out and starting
over?</font><br>
<br>
<font face="arial" size=2>Scott</font></blockquote></html>
--=====================_612170156==_.ALT--
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 09:58:56 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: hotwater heater
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Don,
> It could be the thermocouple as you surmise. I'd try loosening the
> thermocouple connection with the appropiate wrench, then tightening it
> again.
>
> You could also remove the connection, spray it with some WD-40,
> Corrosion-X, or whatever, then reconnect it.
>
> It doesn't have to be super-tight, just a bit more than 'snug'.
Jim, where is the "thermocouple connection" and what should I be loosening
and tightening? I have the original service papers on the Atwood hot water
heater equipped with the Robertshaw Unitrol. It shows an illustration of the
main burner but the not of the thermocouple. There are two small gas lines
coming out of the Unitrol that run to the pilot. I assume the thermocouple
is the inch or so long sensor that the pilot light heats up when it is on.
Thanks for the help.
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 18:15:32 +0000
From: "Frank M. 'Mitch' Hill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [A/S] Engine Pre-luber
From the Airstream list:
At 17:07 02/19/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Gary Zook asks for opinions on Prelube VS Synthetic. I think a pre
>lube pump would be an excellent idea, but to get the manufacturers to
>start building them into engines would probably be impossible. Tow
>vehicles would probably last forever under this scenerio. However, I
>don't think Prelube VS Synthetic would be the answer. I think that
>Prelube plus synthetic would probably be the route I would go. This
>is one opinion from one opinionated list member. <GG>
.
Prelubing of engines (diesel or gas) is a most worthwhile endeavor.
Recently, a good friend of mine, a gentleman who is a "Chief Marine Engineer"
presently working on large ocean going ferry boats in use between Cape Cod,
Martha's Vinyard, and Nantucket Island, and in his off time sails a ocean going
sloop with a 4 cylinder diesel auxiliary engine, added a prelube pump to
his sloop's engine.
The reason being, his research into prelube pumps with the marine diesel
engine companies led to the fact that each time a diesel engine is started
after sitting long enough for the oil to drain back into the oil sump, causes
enough wear to shorten the engine life by 10 hours. It is standard practice
in the marine and railroad industry to leave diesel engines idling rather than
shut them down if shut down period would be a matter of a few hours. The
cost of operating the engines at idle is far less expensive than the
maintenance
costs. However in the case of engines not run long hours on a daily basis,
where shutting down is more practical or necessary, prelubing is going to be
a benefit.
Here is a web site for more information regarding prelubing engines of the
type used in automotive/light truck applications:
http://www.preluber.com/
For those of you operating diesel tow vehicles, this is a web site worth
visiting...
(Even for those operating gas powered tow vehicles)...
TNX, 73, Mitch - WA1YKN
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:04:35 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tracing previous ownership
John,
Yes, the WBCCI office in Jackson Center, Ohio has all the directories. Next
time you're out there, stop in and ask to see them. They have a lounge area
with tables so you'll be comfortable while tracing previous ownership.
The WBCCI office also has current monthly newsletters from all the local
Units nationwide. Many years ago before we joined WBCCI, we stopped to look
at the newsletters to get an idea of exactly what these Airstream people
did. We liked what we saw, started attending rallies put on by different
local Units and eventually joined one Unit as regular members and several
other Units as Associate members.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
on 02/16/02 10:22 PM, John Schubert at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Has anyone put together a collection of membership directories to help those
> interested in tracing previous owners of their Airstream?
>
> John
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:09:10 -0500
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Galvanic Action
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Ted
You will get corrosion from dissimilar metal to metal contact. =20
To reduce this you may want to install the screws wet, by applying sealan=
t before installing.
Of course you will have some excess sealant once the screw is fully inser=
ted, but you can wipe this off.
Personally, I would use stainless steel 316 screws, dipped in Vulcum. Thi=
s will provide some measure of protection from metal to metal contact, pl=
us seal the screw hole better than just using a screw.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
From: T. Byrd
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 9:34 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Galvanic Action
Greetings,
I have a question regarding galvanic action that I'd like to pose to the
group. All of the screws on the exterior of our '58 Overlander are
rusty. I've slowly been replacing these with new stainless steel, but I
recently read that stainless can react with the aluminum, causing it to
corrode. Is there any truth to this? If so, I'd much rather have screws
that will rust, than to risk damage to the skins. Also, if this is true,
what is the best type of screw to use, zinc?
Thanks!
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Ted</DIV> <DIV=
>You will get corrosion from dissimilar metal to metal contact. </DIV> <D=
IV>To reduce this you may want to install the screws wet, by applying sea=
lant before installing.</DIV> <DIV>Of course you will have some excess se=
alant once the screw is fully inserted, but you can wipe this off.</DIV> =
<DIV>Personally, I would use stainless steel 316 screws, dipped in Vulcum=
. This will provide some measure of protection from metal to metal contac=
t, plus seal the screw hole better than just using a screw.</DIV> <DIV>Bo=
bby</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADD=
ING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-R=
IGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----<=
/DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black">=
<B>From:</B> T. Byrd</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> M=
onday, February 18, 2002 9:34 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B=
>To:</B> Multiple recipients of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Ar=
ial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Galvanic Action</DIV> <DIV> </DIV>Greetin=
gs,<BR><BR>I have a question regarding galvanic action that I'd like to p=
ose to the<BR>group. All of the screws on the exterior of our '58 Overlan=
der are<BR>rusty. I've slowly been replacing these with new stainless ste=
el, but I<BR>recently read that stainless can react with the aluminum, ca=
using it to<BR>corrode. Is there any truth to this? If so, I'd much rathe=
r have screws<BR>that will rust, than to risk damage to the skins. Also, =
if this is true,<BR>what is the best type of screw to use, zinc?<BR><BR>T=
hanks!<BR><BR>--<BR>Ted Byrd<BR>1958 Overlander<BR><BR><BR><BR>To unsubsc=
ribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to<BR>http://airstream=
.net/vaclist/listoffice.html<BR><BR>When replying to a message, please de=
lete all unnecessary original text<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:11:54 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Courtesy Parking
Hi Airstreamers,
Today (Sunday 02/17/02), we left Florida's east coast and traveled west
across the state to Sarasota. Our hosts had previously told us that when we
arrived, they wouldn't be home, but would be at the fairground getting
things ready for everyone coming to the big Florida State Airstream Rally.
They had given us directions to their home. As we drove through the housing
development, we noticed the lots were 5+ acres size, there were barns with
fences around them and horses watching us.
When we arrived at the house, I knew we'd be backing through their iron gate
and up their 300' curved driveway. That meant approaching it on my left side
so I could watch the rear of our trailer as it led us in. Our parking site
was on the grassy edge of lawn beside their house where a water spigot and a
lot of hose were waiting for us. Using our own 70' of electric cord, we
connected to power and set up our satellite dish for tonight's Olympic
Games. After we parked, I went back to close and lock the gate. Five deer
were walking down the road and ignored me completely.
About an hour before dark, our Hosts returned home to meet and greet us.
Almost immediately, the four of us realized we knew many of the same
Airstreamers and had visited many of the same locations around the
continent. It could easily have been old home week, except we'd never met
this couple before.
Each of our courtesy parking experiences have been with people we've never
met before. Some experiences have been with couples, some with singles, some
with folks older, younger or our own ages. Once, our courtesy parking spot
was along the curb in front of the Host's house. Another time, it was in
downtown Tampa with an approach through a tunnel of trees and across a home
made wooden bridge. A memorable time was at an Artist's home where he showed
us hundreds of original paintings, numerous iron sculptures he welded
together (and he insisted on repairing my broken mirror). All our
experiences have had two things in common, i.e. a love for Airstreaming and
a desire to share it with other members of WBCCI.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Variety is the mother of enjoyment."
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:23:32 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sarasota Rally
on 02/18/02 4:10 PM, Chulack, Alissa Renee at [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
> is the rally taking place right now? is it this coming weekend or have i
> missed it already? thanks for any info you might have:)
> alissa
Hi Alissa,
The rally starts tomorrow, but most participants are arriving now. Today is
Tuesday 02/19/02. The workers arrived Sunday to set up and organize
everything.
We arrived this morning, hooked up to water and electric and went to the
post office and grocery store. Price of gasoline is $1.09.9 so we filled
up.
The bulletin board has three vintage Airstreams advertised. 400 Airstream
families are expected (220 are here now). Got to run, others are waiting for
this modem connection.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:01:28 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: counter tops
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Scott, how much of the laminate has come unattached? If it is just the =
edges, you may be able to reattach the laminate with a super glue =
product. A good lumber yard (especially if they deal in hardwoods for =
the cabinet trade) will have 3-4 oz containers of super glue in various =
viscosities. The medium would probably be about right.
If the whole laminate piece is coming up and you can get it off without =
breaking it, then contact cement will stick it back. If you break the =
laminate but can get it off, you can buy new laminate in various colors =
and patterns (probably) to match the original look. Contact cement will =
stick the new laminate to the original counter top probably for another =
42 years.
On my ' 68 Tradewind the counter top suffered a water leak for a long =
time in the hands of a previous owner and the particle board under the =
laminate had turned back to sawdust. I had to replace the whole counter =
top and fortunately found a laminate to match the original. The down =
side was I had to buy a whole 8 foot length which is the shortest length =
it comes in.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Scott Scheuermann=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 10:22
Subject: [VAC] counter tops
The formica? countertops on my '60 Overlander are starting to =
delaminate. I guess that after 42 years the glue is loosing its stick. =
Is there some way to repair the counters without pulling everything out =
and starting over?
Scott
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Scott, how much of the laminate has =
come=20
unattached? If it is just the edges, you may be able to reattach the =
laminate=20
with a super glue product. A good lumber yard (especially if they deal =
in=20
hardwoods for the cabinet trade) will have 3-4 oz containers of super =
glue=20
in various viscosities. The medium would probably be about=20
right.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>If the whole laminate piece is coming =
up and you=20
can get it off without breaking it, then contact cement will stick it =
back. If=20
you break the laminate but can get it off, you can buy new laminate in =
various=20
colors and patterns (probably) to match the original</FONT> <FONT=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>look. Contact cement will stick the new laminate =
to the=20
original counter top probably for another 42 years.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>On my ' 68 Tradewind the counter top =
suffered a=20
water leak for a long time in the hands of a previous owner and the =
particle=20
board under the laminate had turned back to sawdust. I had to replace =
the whole=20
counter top and fortunately found a laminate to match the =
original. The=20
down side was I had to buy a whole 8 foot length which is the shortest =
length it=20
comes in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>' 68 Tradewind</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Scott Scheuermann</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, February 19, =
2002=20
10:22</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] counter =
tops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The formica? countertops on my '60 =
Overlander are=20
starting to delaminate. I guess that after 42 years the glue is =
loosing its=20
stick. Is there some way to repair the counters without pulling =
everything out=20
and starting over?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Scott</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 17:49:48 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Water Heater Continued
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As I had posted earlier, my water heater will light, but the burner and =
pilot go out after just a couple of minutes. I have the Atwood heater =
with the Robertshaw Unitrol. At the suggestion of Jim Dunmyer I loosened =
and then retightened the thermocouple but still the same thing happens. =
So I then installed a new Thermocouple, but again the burner and pilot =
go out after a few minutes. Any one have in suggestions. Thanks
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2920.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>As I had posted earlier, my water =
heater will=20
light, but the burner and pilot go out after just a couple of minutes. I =
have=20
the Atwood heater with the Robertshaw Unitrol. At the suggestion of Jim =
Dunmyer=20
I loosened and then retightened the thermocouple but still the same =
thing=20
happens. So I then installed a new Thermocouple, but again the burner =
and pilot=20
go out after a few minutes. Any one have in suggestions.=20
Thanks</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
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