Folks,
Bit of an update. Today I tinkered around a bit. Measured the voltage of the
battery which had been charged yesterday at the shop. It read around 11.90
Volts. On the lower side as pointed out earlier here. Engine started up fine.
Ran fine even on a short spin. With the voltmeter connected I could see the
voltage going upto 14.something Volts.
The headlight circuit is giving some probs. Lights dont work. Relay does
operate, and lights are only on if I keep the lever pulled as if to switch the
beams. And the voltmeter shows a crazy drop during this maneuver. I figure I
may hafta clean up the light circuit contacts as I have had this problem
before. All mysteries lie in dirty oxidised contacts in the fusebox and the
relay.
Pulled the regulator out. Its of the best quality available here. Took it
apart and everything was shiny and new like it was off the shelf. Internal
contact points were excellent with no sticking or pitting etc. Decided not to
mess with it and put it back. Did notice the ground on the regulator was teeny
bit loose so fixed that. The connector was good with all pins shiny copper
colored. So I dont think any mysteries there.
The battery ground terminal was inspected visually and tugged. It seems good
and tight.
The voltage read just below 12volts. While parking it in the house compound
this afternoon I noticed the engine was missing quite badly. The volts were
good but maybe its not giving enough ampereage to generate a strong spark??
Just a thought. Oh, while on this I must mention that for the last week of the
car running I was noticing it giving lousy mileage, like consuming about twice
as much fuel. I had thought I was imagining stuff but now I am not so sure.
Now the battery must go. Id go out on Monday to buy a new one. Have run the
current 65 Ampere Hours one with no issues till now. Even had smaller capacity
ones earlier. what do you guys recommend??
TIA for your thoughts,
Asad
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected]> Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008
> 01:00:15 -0400> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Starting probs in my 68 bug.> >
> Asad,> > You mention installing a post '73 alternator. Is your current>
> Japanese generator mounted on an original VW generator> stand? To mount the
> post '73 alternator, you'll need a post> '73 alternator stand. The
> alternators have a larger diameter.> Some other things to consider are a post
> '73 style fuel pump> that is angled away from the alternator (for clearance)
> and> a change to your carburetor linkage. The accelerator pump> linkage for
> alternator equipped carb's is different (for clearance).> I just thought I'd
> mention this in case you hadn't considered> these issues.> > Brian> > > >
> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "asad ishaque" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> To:
> "Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" <[email protected]>> Sent:
> Friday, March 28, 2008 4:25 PM> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Starting probs in my
> 68 !
bug.> > > >> > Apologies for the unclear explanation...> >> > I currently have
a manual bug starter on the bug. Yes the bushing may be > > faulty on my
current setup along with maybe the brushes too.> >> > Ive become a junkyard
parts hound lately and have picked up many spares for > > the dubs. Amongst
these were the post 73 VW alternator (now refurbished with > > new bearings and
brushes) and the auto stick starter motor, also serviced as > > of today. Both
are ready to go in the bug to replace the non VW generator (I > > stand
corrected, it is indeed a Generator and not an alternator) setup and the > >
old manual type starter.> >> > I can afford to be sneakily lazy using the auto
starter as a replacement in > > not having to pull the engine at the moment. If
I do pull it, it would, Im > > afraid lead to a chain reaction of myself doing
so much to the engine that it > > would stay on the garage floor for a long
time! Cannot afford it at the moment > > as I need my bug as m!
y daily runner. Hafta borrow dads car now and that leads > > t!
o probs
with his work getting piled up.> >> > I would be checking the regulator and
connections to make sure Im not > > missing anything. Not looking forward to
this weekend as Id be stuck at work. > > Have to do one Sunday duty at the
hospital per month and this time its my > > turn. Things may be on hold a bit
as tomorrow I have some house chores to > > attend to.> >> > Funny that you
should mention the mysterious symptoms on the 74 super. I > > might also add
that during the past couple of weeks I was having strange probs > > with the
turn signals having a mind of thier own etc. I was suspecting dirty > >
contacts but now Im thinking (hypothesizing) that it may be due to a drop in >
> current by the battery. Many a mystery on VW CAN be solved just by shinning
up > > contacts tho. Ill see how the bug behaves once the new battery is in.>
>> > Oh most important, no one has mentioned what size battery I should go
for???> >> > Thanks,> >> > Asad> >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: vi!
[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Fri, 28 Mar > >> 2008 08:30:09 -0500> Subject: Re:
[vintagvw] Starting probs in my 68 bug.> > > >> Ahad Asad, Glen nor I knew you
had the autostick starter. That indeed > > >> changes the diagnosis on the
starter bushing. A battery with a dead or > > >> shorted cell causes all kinds
of problems so I'm proud of you in getting it > > >> checked! See what further
problems you have now that you have a good > > >> battery. Make sure you are
charging and if not, you will need to have your > > >> alternator checked to
see if it's charging and if it is, replace your > > >> regulator and double
check all your wiring connections. I'm confident you > > >> will win this
situation!> > I know with my 1974 Super Beetle, I've had > >> problems with the
electrical > system which was traced to at first, a bad > >> alternator, bad
regulator, and > then later a false alarm caused by a faulty > >> turn signal
switch. It happens > now and again and I just shake the >!
>> turnsignal switch violent!> > ly and blew > canned air in !
there an
d it works again for a while. I think it > > gets carbon > and dirt buildup and
it causes a short which makes the > > alternator light come > on. That's also
why I mentioned to check fuses. When I > > get corroson in the > fuse block on
a certain fuse, it also makes the light > > come on. I've been > there done
that so I know instantly what I have to check > > when things start > going
wrong.> > Erin > > > > _______________________________________________>
vintagvw site list> > > [email protected]>
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw> >
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