Hey All, Is the pin that holds the clutch pedal onto the shaft tapered? Can I drive it out the back? Front is buggered(cant see the actual pin anymore) up and I chiseled off the back clean and can get a solid blow with a drift.
Thanks, Bruce Sent from my iPhone On May 22, 2011, at 12:05 PM, "Mike" <[email protected]> wrote: > Scribe a line where the axle housings meet the springplates and chisel a > mark on the end of the springplate where the notch is cast into the rear of > the axle housing. These are your references for reassembly for proper wheel > alignments. Remove the springplate/ axle housing bolts and the rear shock > absorbers at he lower bolts. Remove the Z-bar lower mounts, if you have > one. > > Remove the hand brake cable from the handle and pull them out of the tubes > from the rear leaving them attached to the drums. Just coil them up and > leave them zip-tied to the axles. > > Remove the shift coupling under the rear seat, by removing the safety-wired > grubscrew that engages the trans shift selector, then pull the gearshift > lever hard towards the rear to separate the 2. > > Remove the battery positive cable, the starter wires and the tranny > groundstrap. Remove the clutch cable from the trans end, including the > bowden tube assy. Pull the reverse switch wires. > > Remove the front trans mount bolts and the 2 big (30mm?) rear carrier bolts > that thread into the ends of the framehorns. > > Make sure that the accelerator cable, fuel line and clutch cable are tied up > out of the way. > > Jack it up on a rolling floor jack and roll it out to the rear (get a help > or 2 for balance and axles if necessary. > > Mike B. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: asad ishaque > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 11:33 AM > To: vw mailing list > Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up. > > > Adding some more questions to the discussion...... > > I plan to put on my spare 1300cc 1967 vintage engine till I sort out the > problems on this engine, slowly, carefully and not having the bug off road > in the meanwhile. > > I plan to tackle the gearbox issues now. We checked the rear pair of > foundations. The right hand side one was found broken! Anyway, I planned to > change all the three foundations. > > Now I need guidance for taking the gearbox out. Is it hard to undo it > from the axles?? I plan to swap the nose cone out for a pristine one from my > stash. I discussed the issue of the slipping reverse gear with the old timer > mechanic who said it may (amongst other things) be due to a worn hockey > stick or a worn lever which is operated by the hockey stick. If its the > former case, then no probs for me as I have a hockey stick or two in my > colossal stash too! Any other issues, Id have to consider swapping with the > 67 gearbox I have. > > Are there any differences in the 67 and 68 gearboxes and axles??? Can I > simply mate the original 68 axles to the 67 gearbox should the need arise?? > > Waiting to hear from everyone here. > > TIA > > Asad > Karachi, Pakistan. > > > > >> From: [email protected] >> To: [email protected] >> Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 12:18:52 +0000 >> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up. >> >> >> Hello all, >> >> Continuing the uncovering of the mystery...... >> >> Well, I had a long chat with the old timer Mechanic whom I was >> inviting home and also took the starter motor which came off the bug to >> him. We examined it together and deduced that there was nothing broken or >> missing off it. We reached the conclusion that we would have to pull the >> motor to get to the bottom of things. As the clutch felt 'normal' to press >> and release, we concluded that the likely thoery of a loose and dropped >> thrust bearing pin would not hold in our case. >> >> So on the 20th of May 2011 with the odometer showing 29597 Kilometer >> (yes, its a Kilometer speedo!) the two of us pulled the motor in our >> driveway. The findings were: >> >> 1. Leaky main oil seal indeed. Lots of oil under the engine but just a >> light skim inside the bell housing. Only the engine side of the clutch >> plate had a light coating of oil. >> >> 2. Clutch plate lining was good. However, the four rivets holding the >> center part were coming loose. So we averted another disaster. >> >> 3. Nothing wedged between the flywheel and bell housing. >> >> 4. Now the motor sat on the ground and was inspected. It just would not >> turn. We decided to be gentle with it and put a 36mm socket with a >> standard handle on the gland nut (no breaker bar). It would not turn. Just >> a bit of a nudge and it came free!! It proceeded to turn anticlockwise >> without any issues but again at about the same point, it would not go any >> further. >> >> We deduced that for about 20 degrees of the revolution, it does not go >> round. You can take it the other way round but not thru the 20 degrees. >> >> Another thing we noticed. I had stuffed a plastic bag down the intake >> manifold with the carb off. During part of the revolution, the plastic bag >> would come flying off!! It should mean that at least one intake valve was >> not closing. >> >> I have yet to reexamine the valve train with the engine sitting on the >> floor. I am guessing I missed something. I should rotate the engine by >> hand and see how the valves operate. Maybe its a broken intake valve?? >> >> 5. We examined the oil cooler after taking it off. The old timer said it >> *might* be chocked though he was not sure. He said wed run kerosene oil >> thru it to make sure. An old school method of checking is to assess the >> weight. A heavier oil cooler points to a chocked one. I have yet to run >> oil thru and check. Dont think its likely as we had put on a brand new oil >> cooler during the rebuild and Ive kept the oil clean. Still, $hit happens. >> Who knows. >> >> The engine now sits on the driveway floor. I shall get my hands dirty >> again probably tomorrow and let you know the findings. Any thoughts to >> check other things??? >> >> Someone said it may be a broken crank but I tried to rotate the engine >> with one hand on the crank pulley and one on the flywheel. I cant feel any >> relative play which probably must be there in case of a broken crank. >> >> Also a suspect is a broken or bent con rod. >> >> I consulted another VW mechanic who said it is most likely a spun number >> one main bearing which would need me to repair the block. Hope not. >> >> Thoughts, ideas????? >> >> Best regards, >> >> Asad >> Karachi, Pakistan. >> >> >> >> >> >> >>> From: [email protected] >>> To: [email protected] >>> Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 00:01:01 +0000 >>> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up. >>> >>> >>> Thanks to all of you for the warm welcome back!! >>> >>> I am most grateful and amazed that I/we (my brother and I) were >>> actually being missed by many. This feels like returning home after a >>> long time to family, our VW aircooled family! >>> >>> My Hotmail account is no longer my primary email but I do read the >>> posts every once in a while and do wish I chime into the discussions >>> more often. Can share a lot of the local VW happenings here which would >>> be of interest to all. >>> >>> I read all comments and pondered over. Seems like the two top >>> possibilities are something wedged between the flywheel and Bell housing >>> (maybe like you say a TO bearing clip which came loose when I pushed the >>> car while in gear to disengage the starter motor??). Or something to do >>> with the Valve train assembly. Have still not had time to dig deeper >>> into this mystery as my work hours are odd nowadays. I plan to crawl >>> under the car and take a good look with the valve covers off. I did try >>> to turn the crank pulley good though not really in the opposite >>> direction but it did not budge even a fraction of a millimeter. >>> >>> I dont know why but have been having this 'gut feeling' it would turn >>> out to be something stupidly simple rather than something as horrid as a >>> broken crankshaft. Lets see, shall share definitely. >>> >>> I have invited an old timer Vdub mechanic over to my place tomorrow >>> and would see what he has to say. Id like to inspect the valve assys >>> before he comes to narrow things down. >>> >>> Now I'm sitting planning a bit ahead. I did have quite a few things >>> lined up so if I do need to pull the motor, Id have plenty to do. Im >>> thinking maybe this is an opportunity thrust upon me, very politely, by >>> the VW gods! The car lives up to its nickname of 'Trusty', not breaking >>> down on the road to leave me stranded! Below is a list of 'things to do' >>> if I pull the motor: >>> >>> 1. Replace leaky main oil seal (have a German replacement in my stash, >>> just arrived from Canada) >>> 2. Fix some mysterious exhaust leaks. Seem to be from one of the joints >>> as all components are solid. Bug has stopped fweeming lately. >>> 3. Toss out the J tubes we had used as no decent heat exchange boxes >>> were available. Now I have a pair of good heater boxes in the attic. >>> 4. Inspect the clutch. Have brand new Brazilian clutch and pressure >>> plate in my stash (a lucky local bone yard find from an unfinished >>> project which ended up with the scrappers. Half price!). >>> 5. Maybe, just maybe pull the heads off to fix some oil leaks and fix a >>> single stud which was bad after the overhaul several years ago. This was >>> perhaps the only corner we cut, after great contemplation back then. >>> 6. New piston rings etc if no 5 happens. >>> 7. Have nice push rod tube seals too in from Canada which can go on if >>> no 5 happens. >>> 8. Put in a new starter bushing. Btw, folks may find it interesting that >>> some local Dub specialists can change this with the engine on the car. >>> Its a neat trick I can describe. >>> 9. Maybe I'm forgetting something?? But I know if I put my hands into >>> this, one things going to lead to a lot of things!! >>> >>> This is not all. I have a 'spare' 1967 vintage engine and gearbox >>> in my stash too. Engine can be bolted right on till the current unit >>> gets the needed TLC so car is not off the road for long. >>> >>> Also, have some issues to sort on the gearbox itself. The nose cone >>> has miles of play in the hockey stick. The brass bushing even comes >>> loose and wiggles around. Sloppy shifter to which I'm used to, >>> unfortunately. Sometimes the reverse gear slips to neutral. Any thougths >>> whether this is due to a bad reverse or may be a consequence of the >>> hockey stick play?? How can I be sure, without tearing the whole box >>> open, something which gives me nightmares as not familiar with the >>> intricacies. >>> >>> Some questions: Can I swap the nose cone off the gear box with the >>> unit on the car?? I have a small collection of nose cones now. How hard >>> is it to take the gearbox off?? Its a swing axle 68 bug. Would the rear >>> wheel alignment get disturbed if the gearbox is taken off or played >>> around with?? I also must change all the three mounts while I'm at this. >>> >>> All thoughts shall be highly appreciated. >>> >>> Best wishes and warm regards to all, >>> >>> Asad >>> >>> Karachi, Pakistan. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> From: [email protected] >>>> To: [email protected] >>>> Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 04:08:27 -0700 >>>> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up. >>>> >>>> my friends 63 panel bus had "locked up" right after he turned off his >>>> engine. upon pulling engine we found a throwout bearing clip wedging >>>> the >>>> flywheel. reinstalled the throwout bearing with new TO clips and >>>> driving it >>>> everyday 20 miles each way. >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: [email protected] >>>> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of No Quarter >>>> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 3:30 PM >>>> To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List >>>> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up. >>>> >>>> Hello Asad! Haven't heard from you in a very long time so I'm glad to >>>> see >>>> you're still with us! >>>> >>>> It is entirely possible that something has fallen into the flywheel >>>> gear >>>> teeth and wedged itself between the teeth and the bell-housing. >>>> >>>> I would just pull the engine and while it's out, fix that starter >>>> bushing in >>>> >>>> the transmission. >>>> >>>> Then to remedy your hard start issues with the increased resistance in >>>> the >>>> wiring causing the solenoid to not want to activate, go here and read >>>> up on >>>> this rather cheap fix: >>>> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421220 >>>> >>>> Keep us posted! >>>> >>>> NQ >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> vintagvw site list >>>> [email protected] >>>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw >>>> ----- >>>> No virus found in this message. >>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>>> Version: 10.0.1375 / Virus Database: 1509/3643 - Release Date: >>>> 05/17/11 >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> vintagvw site list >>>> [email protected] >>>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> vintagvw site list >>> [email protected] >>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw >> >> _______________________________________________ >> vintagvw site list >> [email protected] >> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw > > _______________________________________________ > vintagvw site list > [email protected] > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw > > _______________________________________________ > vintagvw site list > [email protected] > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw _______________________________________________ vintagvw site list [email protected] http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
