Scribe a line where the axle housings meet the springplates and chisel a
mark on the end of the springplate where the notch is cast into the rear of
the axle housing. These are your references for reassembly for proper wheel
alignments. Remove the springplate/ axle housing bolts and the rear shock
absorbers at he lower bolts. Remove the Z-bar lower mounts, if you have
one.
Remove the hand brake cable from the handle and pull them out of the tubes
from the rear leaving them attached to the drums. Just coil them up and
leave them zip-tied to the axles.
Remove the shift coupling under the rear seat, by removing the safety-wired
grubscrew that engages the trans shift selector, then pull the gearshift
lever hard towards the rear to separate the 2.
Remove the battery positive cable, the starter wires and the tranny
groundstrap. Remove the clutch cable from the trans end, including the
bowden tube assy. Pull the reverse switch wires.
Remove the front trans mount bolts and the 2 big (30mm?) rear carrier bolts
that thread into the ends of the framehorns.
Make sure that the accelerator cable, fuel line and clutch cable are tied up
out of the way.
Jack it up on a rolling floor jack and roll it out to the rear (get a help
or 2 for balance and axles if necessary.
Mike B.
-----Original Message-----
From: asad ishaque
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 11:33 AM
To: vw mailing list
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
Adding some more questions to the discussion......
I plan to put on my spare 1300cc 1967 vintage engine till I sort out the
problems on this engine, slowly, carefully and not having the bug off road
in the meanwhile.
I plan to tackle the gearbox issues now. We checked the rear pair of
foundations. The right hand side one was found broken! Anyway, I planned to
change all the three foundations.
Now I need guidance for taking the gearbox out. Is it hard to undo it
from the axles?? I plan to swap the nose cone out for a pristine one from my
stash. I discussed the issue of the slipping reverse gear with the old timer
mechanic who said it may (amongst other things) be due to a worn hockey
stick or a worn lever which is operated by the hockey stick. If its the
former case, then no probs for me as I have a hockey stick or two in my
colossal stash too! Any other issues, Id have to consider swapping with the
67 gearbox I have.
Are there any differences in the 67 and 68 gearboxes and axles??? Can I
simply mate the original 68 axles to the 67 gearbox should the need arise??
Waiting to hear from everyone here.
TIA
Asad
Karachi, Pakistan.
> From: asadishaqu...@hotmail.com
> To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
> Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 12:18:52 +0000
> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Continuing the uncovering of the mystery......
>
> Well, I had a long chat with the old timer Mechanic whom I was
> inviting home and also took the starter motor which came off the bug to
> him. We examined it together and deduced that there was nothing broken or
> missing off it. We reached the conclusion that we would have to pull the
> motor to get to the bottom of things. As the clutch felt 'normal' to press
> and release, we concluded that the likely thoery of a loose and dropped
> thrust bearing pin would not hold in our case.
>
> So on the 20th of May 2011 with the odometer showing 29597 Kilometer
> (yes, its a Kilometer speedo!) the two of us pulled the motor in our
> driveway. The findings were:
>
> 1. Leaky main oil seal indeed. Lots of oil under the engine but just a
> light skim inside the bell housing. Only the engine side of the clutch
> plate had a light coating of oil.
>
> 2. Clutch plate lining was good. However, the four rivets holding the
> center part were coming loose. So we averted another disaster.
>
> 3. Nothing wedged between the flywheel and bell housing.
>
> 4. Now the motor sat on the ground and was inspected. It just would not
> turn. We decided to be gentle with it and put a 36mm socket with a
> standard handle on the gland nut (no breaker bar). It would not turn. Just
> a bit of a nudge and it came free!! It proceeded to turn anticlockwise
> without any issues but again at about the same point, it would not go any
> further.
>
> We deduced that for about 20 degrees of the revolution, it does not go
> round. You can take it the other way round but not thru the 20 degrees.
>
> Another thing we noticed. I had stuffed a plastic bag down the intake
> manifold with the carb off. During part of the revolution, the plastic bag
> would come flying off!! It should mean that at least one intake valve was
> not closing.
>
> I have yet to reexamine the valve train with the engine sitting on the
> floor. I am guessing I missed something. I should rotate the engine by
> hand and see how the valves operate. Maybe its a broken intake valve??
>
> 5. We examined the oil cooler after taking it off. The old timer said it
> *might* be chocked though he was not sure. He said wed run kerosene oil
> thru it to make sure. An old school method of checking is to assess the
> weight. A heavier oil cooler points to a chocked one. I have yet to run
> oil thru and check. Dont think its likely as we had put on a brand new oil
> cooler during the rebuild and Ive kept the oil clean. Still, $hit happens.
> Who knows.
>
> The engine now sits on the driveway floor. I shall get my hands dirty
> again probably tomorrow and let you know the findings. Any thoughts to
> check other things???
>
> Someone said it may be a broken crank but I tried to rotate the engine
> with one hand on the crank pulley and one on the flywheel. I cant feel any
> relative play which probably must be there in case of a broken crank.
>
> Also a suspect is a broken or bent con rod.
>
> I consulted another VW mechanic who said it is most likely a spun number
> one main bearing which would need me to repair the block. Hope not.
>
> Thoughts, ideas?????
>
> Best regards,
>
> Asad
> Karachi, Pakistan.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > From: asadishaqu...@hotmail.com
> > To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
> > Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 00:01:01 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
> >
> >
> > Thanks to all of you for the warm welcome back!!
> >
> > I am most grateful and amazed that I/we (my brother and I) were
> > actually being missed by many. This feels like returning home after a
> > long time to family, our VW aircooled family!
> >
> > My Hotmail account is no longer my primary email but I do read the
> > posts every once in a while and do wish I chime into the discussions
> > more often. Can share a lot of the local VW happenings here which would
> > be of interest to all.
> >
> > I read all comments and pondered over. Seems like the two top
> > possibilities are something wedged between the flywheel and Bell housing
> > (maybe like you say a TO bearing clip which came loose when I pushed the
> > car while in gear to disengage the starter motor??). Or something to do
> > with the Valve train assembly. Have still not had time to dig deeper
> > into this mystery as my work hours are odd nowadays. I plan to crawl
> > under the car and take a good look with the valve covers off. I did try
> > to turn the crank pulley good though not really in the opposite
> > direction but it did not budge even a fraction of a millimeter.
> >
> > I dont know why but have been having this 'gut feeling' it would turn
> > out to be something stupidly simple rather than something as horrid as a
> > broken crankshaft. Lets see, shall share definitely.
> >
> > I have invited an old timer Vdub mechanic over to my place tomorrow
> > and would see what he has to say. Id like to inspect the valve assys
> > before he comes to narrow things down.
> >
> > Now I'm sitting planning a bit ahead. I did have quite a few things
> > lined up so if I do need to pull the motor, Id have plenty to do. Im
> > thinking maybe this is an opportunity thrust upon me, very politely, by
> > the VW gods! The car lives up to its nickname of 'Trusty', not breaking
> > down on the road to leave me stranded! Below is a list of 'things to do'
> > if I pull the motor:
> >
> > 1. Replace leaky main oil seal (have a German replacement in my stash,
> > just arrived from Canada)
> > 2. Fix some mysterious exhaust leaks. Seem to be from one of the joints
> > as all components are solid. Bug has stopped fweeming lately.
> > 3. Toss out the J tubes we had used as no decent heat exchange boxes
> > were available. Now I have a pair of good heater boxes in the attic.
> > 4. Inspect the clutch. Have brand new Brazilian clutch and pressure
> > plate in my stash (a lucky local bone yard find from an unfinished
> > project which ended up with the scrappers. Half price!).
> > 5. Maybe, just maybe pull the heads off to fix some oil leaks and fix a
> > single stud which was bad after the overhaul several years ago. This was
> > perhaps the only corner we cut, after great contemplation back then.
> > 6. New piston rings etc if no 5 happens.
> > 7. Have nice push rod tube seals too in from Canada which can go on if
> > no 5 happens.
> > 8. Put in a new starter bushing. Btw, folks may find it interesting that
> > some local Dub specialists can change this with the engine on the car.
> > Its a neat trick I can describe.
> > 9. Maybe I'm forgetting something?? But I know if I put my hands into
> > this, one things going to lead to a lot of things!!
> >
> > This is not all. I have a 'spare' 1967 vintage engine and gearbox
> > in my stash too. Engine can be bolted right on till the current unit
> > gets the needed TLC so car is not off the road for long.
> >
> > Also, have some issues to sort on the gearbox itself. The nose cone
> > has miles of play in the hockey stick. The brass bushing even comes
> > loose and wiggles around. Sloppy shifter to which I'm used to,
> > unfortunately. Sometimes the reverse gear slips to neutral. Any thougths
> > whether this is due to a bad reverse or may be a consequence of the
> > hockey stick play?? How can I be sure, without tearing the whole box
> > open, something which gives me nightmares as not familiar with the
> > intricacies.
> >
> > Some questions: Can I swap the nose cone off the gear box with the
> > unit on the car?? I have a small collection of nose cones now. How hard
> > is it to take the gearbox off?? Its a swing axle 68 bug. Would the rear
> > wheel alignment get disturbed if the gearbox is taken off or played
> > around with?? I also must change all the three mounts while I'm at this.
> >
> > All thoughts shall be highly appreciated.
> >
> > Best wishes and warm regards to all,
> >
> > Asad
> >
> > Karachi, Pakistan.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > From: vwb...@san.rr.com
> > > To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
> > > Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 04:08:27 -0700
> > > Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
> > >
> > > my friends 63 panel bus had "locked up" right after he turned off his
> > > engine. upon pulling engine we found a throwout bearing clip wedging
> > > the
> > > flywheel. reinstalled the throwout bearing with new TO clips and
> > > driving it
> > > everyday 20 miles each way.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu
> > > [mailto:vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu] On Behalf Of No Quarter
> > > Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 3:30 PM
> > > To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
> > > Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
> > >
> > > Hello Asad! Haven't heard from you in a very long time so I'm glad to
> > > see
> > > you're still with us!
> > >
> > > It is entirely possible that something has fallen into the flywheel
> > > gear
> > > teeth and wedged itself between the teeth and the bell-housing.
> > >
> > > I would just pull the engine and while it's out, fix that starter
> > > bushing in
> > >
> > > the transmission.
> > >
> > > Then to remedy your hard start issues with the increased resistance in
> > > the
> > > wiring causing the solenoid to not want to activate, go here and read
> > > up on
> > > this rather cheap fix:
> > > http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421220
> > >
> > > Keep us posted!
> > >
> > > NQ
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > vintagvw site list
> > > vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
> > > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
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> > > 05/17/11
> > >
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> >
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