Adding some more questions to the discussion......
I plan to put on my spare 1300cc 1967 vintage engine till I sort out the
problems on this engine, slowly, carefully and not having the bug off road in
the meanwhile.
I plan to tackle the gearbox issues now. We checked the rear pair of
foundations. The right hand side one was found broken! Anyway, I planned to
change all the three foundations.
Now I need guidance for taking the gearbox out. Is it hard to undo it from
the axles?? I plan to swap the nose cone out for a pristine one from my stash.
I discussed the issue of the slipping reverse gear with the old timer mechanic
who said it may (amongst other things) be due to a worn hockey stick or a worn
lever which is operated by the hockey stick. If its the former case, then no
probs for me as I have a hockey stick or two in my colossal stash too! Any
other issues, Id have to consider swapping with the 67 gearbox I have.
Are there any differences in the 67 and 68 gearboxes and axles??? Can I
simply mate the original 68 axles to the 67 gearbox should the need arise??
Waiting to hear from everyone here.
TIA
Asad
Karachi, Pakistan.
> From: [email protected]
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 12:18:52 +0000
> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Continuing the uncovering of the mystery......
>
> Well, I had a long chat with the old timer Mechanic whom I was inviting
> home and also took the starter motor which came off the bug to him. We
> examined it together and deduced that there was nothing broken or missing off
> it. We reached the conclusion that we would have to pull the motor to get to
> the bottom of things. As the clutch felt 'normal' to press and release, we
> concluded that the likely thoery of a loose and dropped thrust bearing pin
> would not hold in our case.
>
> So on the 20th of May 2011 with the odometer showing 29597 Kilometer (yes,
> its a Kilometer speedo!) the two of us pulled the motor in our driveway. The
> findings were:
>
> 1. Leaky main oil seal indeed. Lots of oil under the engine but just a light
> skim inside the bell housing. Only the engine side of the clutch plate had a
> light coating of oil.
>
> 2. Clutch plate lining was good. However, the four rivets holding the center
> part were coming loose. So we averted another disaster.
>
> 3. Nothing wedged between the flywheel and bell housing.
>
> 4. Now the motor sat on the ground and was inspected. It just would not turn.
> We decided to be gentle with it and put a 36mm socket with a standard handle
> on the gland nut (no breaker bar). It would not turn. Just a bit of a nudge
> and it came free!! It proceeded to turn anticlockwise without any issues but
> again at about the same point, it would not go any further.
>
> We deduced that for about 20 degrees of the revolution, it does not go
> round. You can take it the other way round but not thru the 20 degrees.
>
> Another thing we noticed. I had stuffed a plastic bag down the intake
> manifold with the carb off. During part of the revolution, the plastic bag
> would come flying off!! It should mean that at least one intake valve was not
> closing.
>
> I have yet to reexamine the valve train with the engine sitting on the
> floor. I am guessing I missed something. I should rotate the engine by hand
> and see how the valves operate. Maybe its a broken intake valve??
>
> 5. We examined the oil cooler after taking it off. The old timer said it
> *might* be chocked though he was not sure. He said wed run kerosene oil thru
> it to make sure. An old school method of checking is to assess the weight. A
> heavier oil cooler points to a chocked one. I have yet to run oil thru and
> check. Dont think its likely as we had put on a brand new oil cooler during
> the rebuild and Ive kept the oil clean. Still, $hit happens. Who knows.
>
> The engine now sits on the driveway floor. I shall get my hands dirty
> again probably tomorrow and let you know the findings. Any thoughts to check
> other things???
>
> Someone said it may be a broken crank but I tried to rotate the engine
> with one hand on the crank pulley and one on the flywheel. I cant feel any
> relative play which probably must be there in case of a broken crank.
>
> Also a suspect is a broken or bent con rod.
>
> I consulted another VW mechanic who said it is most likely a spun number
> one main bearing which would need me to repair the block. Hope not.
>
> Thoughts, ideas?????
>
> Best regards,
>
> Asad
> Karachi, Pakistan.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > From: [email protected]
> > To: [email protected]
> > Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 00:01:01 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
> >
> >
> > Thanks to all of you for the warm welcome back!!
> >
> > I am most grateful and amazed that I/we (my brother and I) were
> > actually being missed by many. This feels like returning home after a long
> > time to family, our VW aircooled family!
> >
> > My Hotmail account is no longer my primary email but I do read the
> > posts every once in a while and do wish I chime into the discussions more
> > often. Can share a lot of the local VW happenings here which would be of
> > interest to all.
> >
> > I read all comments and pondered over. Seems like the two top
> > possibilities are something wedged between the flywheel and Bell housing
> > (maybe like you say a TO bearing clip which came loose when I pushed the
> > car while in gear to disengage the starter motor??). Or something to do
> > with the Valve train assembly. Have still not had time to dig deeper into
> > this mystery as my work hours are odd nowadays. I plan to crawl under the
> > car and take a good look with the valve covers off. I did try to turn the
> > crank pulley good though not really in the opposite direction but it did
> > not budge even a fraction of a millimeter.
> >
> > I dont know why but have been having this 'gut feeling' it would turn
> > out to be something stupidly simple rather than something as horrid as a
> > broken crankshaft. Lets see, shall share definitely.
> >
> > I have invited an old timer Vdub mechanic over to my place tomorrow and
> > would see what he has to say. Id like to inspect the valve assys before he
> > comes to narrow things down.
> >
> > Now I'm sitting planning a bit ahead. I did have quite a few things lined
> > up so if I do need to pull the motor, Id have plenty to do. Im thinking
> > maybe this is an opportunity thrust upon me, very politely, by the VW gods!
> > The car lives up to its nickname of 'Trusty', not breaking down on the road
> > to leave me stranded! Below is a list of 'things to do' if I pull the motor:
> >
> > 1. Replace leaky main oil seal (have a German replacement in my stash, just
> > arrived from Canada)
> > 2. Fix some mysterious exhaust leaks. Seem to be from one of the joints as
> > all components are solid. Bug has stopped fweeming lately.
> > 3. Toss out the J tubes we had used as no decent heat exchange boxes were
> > available. Now I have a pair of good heater boxes in the attic.
> > 4. Inspect the clutch. Have brand new Brazilian clutch and pressure plate
> > in my stash (a lucky local bone yard find from an unfinished project which
> > ended up with the scrappers. Half price!).
> > 5. Maybe, just maybe pull the heads off to fix some oil leaks and fix a
> > single stud which was bad after the overhaul several years ago. This was
> > perhaps the only corner we cut, after great contemplation back then.
> > 6. New piston rings etc if no 5 happens.
> > 7. Have nice push rod tube seals too in from Canada which can go on if no 5
> > happens.
> > 8. Put in a new starter bushing. Btw, folks may find it interesting that
> > some local Dub specialists can change this with the engine on the car. Its
> > a neat trick I can describe.
> > 9. Maybe I'm forgetting something?? But I know if I put my hands into this,
> > one things going to lead to a lot of things!!
> >
> > This is not all. I have a 'spare' 1967 vintage engine and gearbox in
> > my stash too. Engine can be bolted right on till the current unit gets the
> > needed TLC so car is not off the road for long.
> >
> > Also, have some issues to sort on the gearbox itself. The nose cone
> > has miles of play in the hockey stick. The brass bushing even comes loose
> > and wiggles around. Sloppy shifter to which I'm used to, unfortunately.
> > Sometimes the reverse gear slips to neutral. Any thougths whether this is
> > due to a bad reverse or may be a consequence of the hockey stick play?? How
> > can I be sure, without tearing the whole box open, something which gives me
> > nightmares as not familiar with the intricacies.
> >
> > Some questions: Can I swap the nose cone off the gear box with the unit
> > on the car?? I have a small collection of nose cones now. How hard is it to
> > take the gearbox off?? Its a swing axle 68 bug. Would the rear wheel
> > alignment get disturbed if the gearbox is taken off or played around with??
> > I also must change all the three mounts while I'm at this.
> >
> > All thoughts shall be highly appreciated.
> >
> > Best wishes and warm regards to all,
> >
> > Asad
> >
> > Karachi, Pakistan.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > From: [email protected]
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Date: Wed, 18 May 2011 04:08:27 -0700
> > > Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
> > >
> > > my friends 63 panel bus had "locked up" right after he turned off his
> > > engine. upon pulling engine we found a throwout bearing clip wedging the
> > > flywheel. reinstalled the throwout bearing with new TO clips and driving
> > > it
> > > everyday 20 miles each way.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [email protected]
> > > [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of No Quarter
> > > Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 3:30 PM
> > > To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
> > > Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Motor locked up.
> > >
> > > Hello Asad! Haven't heard from you in a very long time so I'm glad to
> > > see
> > > you're still with us!
> > >
> > > It is entirely possible that something has fallen into the flywheel gear
> > > teeth and wedged itself between the teeth and the bell-housing.
> > >
> > > I would just pull the engine and while it's out, fix that starter bushing
> > > in
> > >
> > > the transmission.
> > >
> > > Then to remedy your hard start issues with the increased resistance in
> > > the
> > > wiring causing the solenoid to not want to activate, go here and read up
> > > on
> > > this rather cheap fix:
> > > http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=421220
> > >
> > > Keep us posted!
> > >
> > > NQ
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > vintagvw site list
> > > [email protected]
> > > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
> > > -----
> > > No virus found in this message.
> > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > > Version: 10.0.1375 / Virus Database: 1509/3643 - Release Date: 05/17/11
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > vintagvw site list
> > > [email protected]
> > > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > vintagvw site list
> > [email protected]
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
>
> _______________________________________________
> vintagvw site list
> [email protected]
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
_______________________________________________
vintagvw site list
[email protected]
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
