Tap on the retainer with a socket. Sharply.
I'm lucky - I have an industrial induction heater made specially for
things like rusted-on nuts. I still snap off the occasional exhaust stud
despite this. I've gotten pretty good at drilling out the stub and
inserting a Helicoil.
Chuck Kuecker
On 4/1/2013 6:20 PM, Dean Johnson wrote:
It's not really a ball, the adjuster 'balls' have a flat spot on them
that contacts the stem, the contact area looks to be about the same
size as the diameter of the stem. Its a flat surface contacting a flat
surface. There is no damage to either of these two contact areas. The
damage is further from the end of the stem, maybe a mm or two in from
the end. At that point the diameter of the stem is less than 1/2 that
of the rest of the stem. In profile it would look like a T. I don't
know what the rest of the stem looks like as I couldn't get the
keepers to come out, they don't move when I push the retainer towards
the head, or when I pull it away from the head. (the valve is kept in
place by the compressed air).
I pulled the engine and began dismantling so I can remove the heads,
but my front exhaust nuts are rusted beyond all get out and I can't
get the heat exchangers off. I'm soaking in liquid wrench and will try
heat and pounding. Most likely I'll have to resort to grinding them
off then extracting the broken studs. That's what usually happens
anyway. New York winters aren't any kinder than Michigan winters. I
shoulda moved somewhere warmer.
Dean
On Mon, Apr 1, 2013 at 6:59 PM, Chuck Kuecker <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
The point contact of the ball might have aggravated a soft valve
stem. Take a close look at the others - might be a lot problem.
Chuck Kuecker
On 3/31/2013 10:16 AM, Dean Johnson wrote:
Yes, a lucky catch. I still had plenty of thread on the adjusters
and didn't notice that valve being excessively loose the last
time I adjusted the valves. But perhaps I didn't adjust them as
often as I should have. Still, I don't think I had to turn it in
any more than the others the last time I adjusted it and that
couldn't have been too long ago. I had swapped my dual carbs out
for a single carb sometime a few months before it died on me and
I'm sure I adjusted the valves then. I was driving all through
the New York winter, 70 miles a day up to 65 mph. Which explains
the transaxle failure.
There are no caps between the adjusters and the valve stems. The
flat area of the ball contacts the stem directly.
On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 9:10 AM, Chuck Kuecker
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Tried the link again, got through. Looks like the end of the
valve was not hardened correctly, and just got eroded away. A
little longer and the keepers would have nothing to keep them
in place except friction. A lucky catch!
I can't imagine that happening quickly. Did you notice that
intake valve's lash getting loose on every check and just
reset it? That adjuster would have run out of threads pretty
soon.
Chuck Kuecker
On 3/30/2013 9:14 PM, bill may wrote:
Do you have the adjusters going direct onto valve stem? Or
are there caps between valve and the ball foot adjusters?
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