Re: [Elecraft] Re: KNB2
I understand where you are coming from, Darrell. That is bad.. I have been a ham since 1961 and really never found a NB that worked really good in the house. Usually it also distorts the audio. Now, in a vehicle I have found that the NB does work good usually. Paul Gates K1 #0231 KX1 #1186 XG1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Darrell Bellerive [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 10:55 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: KNB2 Eliminating the source of the noise is by far the best solution, however in many cases it is just not practical. I live in a farming area and there are many, many, electric fences. While an electric fence in proper order causes little if any RFI, most fences are simply not installed and maintained with respect to RFI. Keeping them in good working order would be a full time job, and I would rather be on the air than fixing them. The same would hold true of a ham near an industrial complex. Just too many noise sources to be eliminated to be practical. Sometimes a good noise blanker is the most practical solution. Unfortunately most noise blankers seem to be designed to tackle only one noise source at a time within limited constraints of pulse width, pulse rate and pulse level, rather than many simultaneous noise sources with very diverse pulse characteristics. Another alternative to noise blanking is to move off the grid, way into the backcountry where manmade noise is behind a few mountain ranges, but this too has some practical limitations. On July 18, 2005 11:37 am, Paul Gates wrote: I would think that be-moaning the fact of a better noise blanker would be to find the source of the noise which is pretty easy to do usually and with the help of the FCC things change. Paul Gates K1 #0231 KX1 #1186 XG1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] NAQCC Sprint tomorrow night
Just a reminder, tomorrow (Wednesday night) is the next NAQCC 80/40 Sprint ! For details, please see: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/sprint200507.html And remember, a certificate will be awarded to the highest score earned by a truly portable station using emergency power. 73 de Larry W2LJ NAQCC #35 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
Wayne, regarding your post on an upgraded KNB2. The time has come for all of us in the kit building community to embrace surface mount. We need to start installing these devices ourselves. It's really not that hard. I've done it and it is easy to do if you are careful and have good instruction. Elecraft is the gold standard in kit building. The time has come for SMT in kits. The KNBx is the place to start. I know you are fearful of allowing us hamfisted hams to start installing SMT. Be not afraid! Sign me up as a beta tester. The option will be a sell-out. 73 Joe K4AA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: KNB2
Why does that imply pre-assembly? Lots of us out here are perfectly comfortable with SMT, and there's enuf builders-for-hire to support those who aren't ... de w1rt On 7/18/05, wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks, everyone, for all the input on noise blankers. A more sophisticated noise blanker is certainly possible. It would need about twice as many parts, and to fit in the available space would require nearly all SMDs, including 0603 size passives and TSSOP ICs. This implies a completely pre-assembled module, which is one of the things we tried to avoid in the K2 :) Still, this is definitely on the wish-list. When we do get to it, we'll be looking for testers who have all sorts of horrible noise to throw at it. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
And, the big bugaboo of kitting smt devices (no markings) is easily remedied. You get the parts sorted on strips. Use spray paint! If you need more than 8 colors, I'd be quite surprised. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip The time has come for all of us in the kit building community to embrace surface mount. /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Balun Enclosure and drilling Altoid tins
I haven't tried this myself yet, but I've read it somewhere --- To drill holes in the Altoid tins, fill the tin with water and freeze it. Then you will have a solid backing when you drill. Give it a shot, worst case you mess up the tin and you get to eat more mints. GL Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 -- Original message -- From: n2fq [EMAIL PROTECTED] EricJ wrote: Not NICER, but different. I stuck mine in the traditional Altoids tin. Hello.. Thanks for the correction. I did mean different. I didn't think of removing the terminals nor the BNC connector. Great idea. But must confess that I can't make a decent holes in Altoid tins. Probably will invest in a step bit some day. take care and thanks. Great photos on the other modules too, they all look very slick. EricJ wrote: -- 73 Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM San Jose, CA http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KDSP option
Dear all, I am using the K2 DSP option from the beginning, which is (technically) working fine. But I am constantly switching it off, because it's swallowing weak signals (especially CW signals). I am using the default values of the DSP option. Does anybody has experience how to use the DSP digging weak signals out off the noise? Best regards Martin, DL6KMR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Altoid Tin Holes
Eric, You may want to look for a hole punch. There are plier like devices that should make nice clean holes in the sizes you need (at least in the ends). They are reasonably priced, or you may be able to find one at a hamfest or flea market. http://www.nextag.com/metal-hole-punch/search-html For some holes they are less aggravating than using a drill... 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Weather Sealing
Dan, PVC plumbing pipe is one of the easiest options to use. If you need access, there are also weather sealable plastic electrical jboxes. Virtually any hardware store (definitely Home Depot and Loews) should have them on the shelf. Cheers, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Altoid Tin Holes
You know I have one of those punches. I thought it was just for leather! I have made holes in my belts since I have lost 40 lbs! I bet they would work on thin tin. Paul Gates K1 #0231 KX1 #1186 XG1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 8:51 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Altoid Tin Holes Eric, You may want to look for a hole punch. There are plier like devices that should make nice clean holes in the sizes you need (at least in the ends). They are reasonably priced, or you may be able to find one at a hamfest or flea market. http://www.nextag.com/metal-hole-punch/search-html For some holes they are less aggravating than using a drill... 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solar Charger
Hello all. I just installed the KBT2 battery kit in my K2. I have a 5 watt unisolar flex panel that I would like to use to charge/run the K2 with especially for field day, portable, etc... My panel puts out 17.5 volts no load at a rated 5 watts according to the company. I read in the KBT2 Manual that the the current control is done by the 6.2ohm/2watt resistor. which should handle any typical power supply So I would think. Does this also apply to the solar panel?? my thinking is that to start with that the battery is only going to draw what it needs to keep the charge. Is this Correct?? or is the higher voltage an issue?? Thanks David KR4OW K2 4320 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 problem
Hi all, In my previous email I had described that I had my kpa100 working in the K2 enclosure but that it had died when I tried to install it in the EC2 case. I was getting info 080 and Lyle Johnson had suggested a problem with the aux bus line. I have refined search down to the 5 V line that supplies the max 1406. When I remove U1 on the kpa100 board I get a dead short at pin 1 of U1. This could mean that the 5 V regulator is bad but there are other components connected to this line and any one of these components could be defective (U3, U4, C23, C89, U6, etc). I am now faced with developing a procedure to isolate the bad part. I have already inspected the board for shorts and do not see any. The fact that the kpa100 worked before leads me to believe that a component may have shorted itself out. I could destructively remove each component until the short disappeared but then I would need to replace possibly a lot of parts. The other option would be to isolate each part one at a time by cutting traces. Once the part was deemed OK, I would have to patch the trace and go on to the next part. I would end up with a lot of patched traces. Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve, W2MY -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.1/51 - Release Date: 7/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: KNB2
On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, John D'Ausilio wrote: Why does that imply pre-assembly? Lots of us out here are perfectly comfortable with SMT, and there's enuf builders-for-hire to support those who aren't ... An interesting, and market driven to boot, approach would be if some enterprizing person/persons produced a kit and an assembled noise blanker for the K2 using more current technology. For those K2 owners that either can not or would rather not build one, the assembled version would be a plus, and the kit version would allow the builders to benefit. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Longest Covered Bridge in the World!
Hello all, Do you know where the longest covered bridge in the world was located? Guess Canada - wrong! The longest covered bridge in the world was located close to my home qth. Still wondering where? It was located in Lancaster County, PA and it crossed the Susquehanna River at a length of over a mile. This bridge had a hand is changing US history! I plan to activate this historic bridge soon. For more info about the interesting history of this historic covered bridge, click on the link below which is on our website. http://www.arcbs.org/files/OldestCoveredBridge.html 72/73, Ed, WA3WSJ ARCBS Founder ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] A/B antenna switch for ladder line fed antennas
Kevin I use DPDT relays here to switch my 450 ohm feedlines. Works very well. 73, Bob N6WG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kevin Rock Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 5:03 PM To: Elecraft; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Elecraft] A/B antenna switch for ladder line fed antennas I have a fancy switch for A/B antenna testing for coaxially fed antennas but do not know what folks use for antenna switches with antennas fed by ladder lines. I want to compare a 160 meter full wave loop fed with homebrew ladder line to a G5RV fed by 450 window line. Any suggestions? I knife switch of some sort like we used in grade school science labs in the '60s? Or is there something more modern? Kevin. KD5ONS -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.1/51 - Release Date: 7/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
A few thoughts Maybe Elecraft is the gold standard for kit building because they DON'T use SMTs. Maybe many hams don't consider building with SMTs relaxing or fun although THEY CAN DO IT. It may not be that hard, but for many it is not much FUN. Maybe Elecraft realizes the number one kit building problems (unsoldered and poorly soldered joints, wrong part installed) will dramatically increase with very tiny, cryptically marked or unmarked parts that often look IDENTICAL. Rework will be a nightmare for Elecraft and the hams that build the kits. Maybe many hams don't have and are unwilling to invest in the specialized equipment needed to safely and easily rework, if not build with SMTs. Maybe Elecraft is concerned about losing their customer base which may not be ready to embrace SMT assembly for MANY reasons. Maybe we forget that SMTs were developed for MACHINE assembly, not hand assembly. While builders for hire might be an alternative, maybe it would be cheaper for customers for Elecraft to hire it out to MACHINE assemblers. Maybe quality builders for hire are not interested in hand building complex kits with SMTs. Maybe monoband transceivers that fit inside a 9V battery case are interesting novelties, but not of much use for hams who build the gear Elecraft made their name with. I'll pass on the beta testing. I'll probably pass on an SMT kit. I build for fun. If it isn't fun, I might as well get one built better than hand assembly by some machine. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Squarzini Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:21 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx Wayne, regarding your post on an upgraded KNB2. The time has come for all of us in the kit building community to embrace surface mount. We need to start installing these devices ourselves. It's really not that hard. I've done it and it is easy to do if you are careful and have good instruction. Elecraft is the gold standard in kit building. The time has come for SMT in kits. The KNBx is the place to start. I know you are fearful of allowing us hamfisted hams to start installing SMT. Be not afraid! Sign me up as a beta tester. The option will be a sell-out. 73 Joe K4AA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: K2 Balun Enclosure and drilling Altoid tins
If I lived in a fish shack in Minnesota, drilling a box full of ice in mid-winter might be practical (thank GOD, I don't) On my workbench in So Cal...maybe not so much. But with a simple, inexpensive brad point bit available at any Ace Hdwe, Lowe's,Home Depot or Harbor Freight, you don't need a backing...of any kind. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:34 AM To: n2fq; EricJ Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: K2 Balun Enclosure and drilling Altoid tins I haven't tried this myself yet, but I've read it somewhere --- To drill holes in the Altoid tins, fill the tin with water and freeze it. Then you will have a solid backing when you drill. Give it a shot, worst case you mess up the tin and you get to eat more mints. GL Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 -- Original message -- From: n2fq [EMAIL PROTECTED] EricJ wrote: Not NICER, but different. I stuck mine in the traditional Altoids tin. Hello.. Thanks for the correction. I did mean different. I didn't think of removing the terminals nor the BNC connector. Great idea. But must confess that I can't make a decent holes in Altoid tins. Probably will invest in a step bit some day. take care and thanks. Great photos on the other modules too, they all look very slick. EricJ wrote: -- 73 Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM San Jose, CA http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Altoid Tin Holes
I have used paper punches and the Harbor Freight heavy duty hand punch with interchangeable dies. The paper punch can only punch one size hole, then you have to hand ream an ugly gash of a hole to get the right size. The HB punch is heavy and unwieldy and won't reach down far enough down the side of an Altoids or Whitman's tin, not to mention that changing dies requires an annoying disassembly of the punch. It does make a nice clean hole, though, and I use it for punching lots of same size Manhattan style islands. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: J F [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:52 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Discussion List Subject: Altoid Tin Holes Eric, You may want to look for a hole punch. There are plier like devices that should make nice clean holes in the sizes you need (at least in the ends). They are reasonably priced, or you may be able to find one at a hamfest or flea market. http://www.nextag.com/metal-hole-punch/search-html For some holes they are less aggravating than using a drill... 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ARCBS Covered Bridge Weekend Ops needed!
Hello all, The Amateur Radio Covered Bridge Society or ARCBS still needs more radio ops to activate covered bridges for this grand event to be held September 3- 4, 2005. If you can spare the weekend, a day or an hour or two, please respond by email to mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] This will be the largest covered bridge on the air event ever held so why not join in on the fun. Check out the link below for more information. I hope to work you from a covered bridge soon! http://www.arcbs.org/ARCBScbWeekend.html 72/73, Ed, WA3WSJ ARCBS Founder ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
Joe Squarzini wrote: Wayne, regarding your post on an upgraded KNB2. The time has come for all of us in the kit building community to embrace surface mount. We need to start installing these devices ourselves. It's really not that hard. There's a difference between replacing a couple of SMDs, as many of us have done, and populating a whole board -- especially if you are using the smaller ones and they are closely packed. My personal feeling is that I would not want to tackle anything more than a very simple project using SMDs. The full advantage of using these devices is not felt unless they can be packed densely anyway. If you look at examples of boards produced commercially by automated processes, it's hard to imagine duplicating that kind of product by hand. If you have the Elecraft DSP, for example, look at the daughterboard containing the processor. It would be possible to produce a board with an open layout and specify only the largest sizes of SMDs. But the frustration factor (consider soldering the pins of a microprocessor or other large IC!) would be much greater and the advantage small. Just my opinion. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KDSP option
Renardy, Martin wrote: I am using the default values of the DSP option. Does anybody has experience how to use the DSP digging weak signals out off the noise? I've found that it helps to reduce the Decay parameter from the default to about 30 for weak-signal CW reception. This makes the denoiser less effective, but it seems to affect weak signals somewhat less. I would also like to hear other opinions on this. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem
Steve, First remove the regulator which you suspect anyway. If that does not remove the short, then start removing one component at a time until you find it. A good de-soldering tool makes the task a lot easier, and if the price of the potential parts replacement is high, perhaps it is time to invest in a de-soldering tool - you won't be sorry, and you can remove parts non-destructively in most cases. If you do not have a de-soldering tool, the easiest is to cut traces - start by cutting a trace so it divides the suspect components into 2 equal groups, find out which half the short remains in and divide that section into 2 groups again - you don't have to make as many cuts, and you will find it more quickly. I don't know of an easier method unless you happen to spot a solder bridge along the way. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- . When I remove U1 on the kpa100 board I get a dead short at pin 1 of U1. This could mean that the 5 V regulator is bad but there are other components connected to this line and any one of these components could be defective (U3, U4, C23, C89, U6, etc). I am now faced with developing a procedure to isolate the bad part. I have already inspected the board for shorts and do not see any. The fact that the kpa100 worked before leads me to believe that a component may have shorted itself out. I could destructively remove each component until the short disappeared but then I would need to replace possibly a lot of parts. The other option would be to isolate each part one at a time by cutting traces. Once the part was deemed OK, I would have to patch the trace and go on to the next part. I would end up with a lot of patched traces. Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve, W2MY -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.1/51 - Release Date: 7/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.1/51 - Release Date: 7/18/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.1/51 - Release Date: 7/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
Eric wrote: Maybe many hams don't consider building with SMTs relaxing or fun although THEY CAN DO IT. It may not be that hard, but for many it is not much FUN. snip many other good points Maybe we forget that SMTs were developed for MACHINE assembly, not hand assembly. snip many more good points I might as well get one built better than hand assembly by some machine. Hi Eric, You make many excellent and well-stated points. I agree with every one of them. But watch out for the ire of the wage holy war for SMT folks out there who will imply that you're reactionary, ignorant, stupid, out of date, out of step, lazy, not properly motivated, unskilled, etc. because you won't do SMT. I love kit SMT PCBs...as long as the SMT parts have been machine pre-assembled on the PCB before I have to put other parts on the PCB (example...MFJ Cub QRP kits). That's the appropriate and intended use of SMT technology. Any kit that requires manual SMT application above one or two large parts is a kludge design that I would *never* buy under any circumstance. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2 Balun Enclosure and drilling Altoid tins
Here is a link with a good pictorial on creating holes in an Altoids tin. I have used this method using a T-Handle reamer from Ace Hardware and it works great. http://www.radioactivehams.com/~n0rc/rm/enclosure/altoids_enclosure.html 73, Tony W7GO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
Heh heh heh. I've been their target on QRP-L. Almost 50 years ago, my friends gave me a cigarette to try. I did. I puked for hours afterward. They all laughed and said I'd get used to it. I asked them, But why would I want to? It's remained a good test for me in other things in my life. SMTs were made for cheap machine assembly or to save space where it is important to save space. As hams, we have different requirements than consumer electronic manufacturers. We can pop for the 5 cent resistor instead of the 2 cent SMT equivalent. And there is no labor saving hand assembling with SMTs. If anything it takes longer. Our gear is usually large enough to meet our needs for tuning knobs, etc. so space is rarely the overriding consideration. I've built some SMT kits that weren't significantly smaller than they would have been using traditional 1/8 resistors mounted on end. And I've built some that were very small, but could easily have been twice as big and still fit where they were supposed to go. SMTs for SMT's sake is pointless. I'm NOT saying they have no place in ham radio. Where the overriding objective is small size, such as the ATS-III, SMTs are the only way to go and it is deemed worth it for a relatively small number of experienced builders. Anyway, I don't bother with SMT kits anymore for one very simple fact. They aren't fun for me. I'm a hobbyist, not a manufacturer. Elecraft and other kit builders are selling fun as much as they are selling ham gear. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: Mike Morrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 8:57 AM To: EricJ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx Eric wrote: Maybe many hams don't consider building with SMTs relaxing or fun although THEY CAN DO IT. It may not be that hard, but for many it is not much FUN. snip many other good points Maybe we forget that SMTs were developed for MACHINE assembly, not hand assembly. snip many more good points I might as well get one built better than hand assembly by some machine. Hi Eric, You make many excellent and well-stated points. I agree with every one of them. But watch out for the ire of the wage holy war for SMT folks out there who will imply that you're reactionary, ignorant, stupid, out of date, out of step, lazy, not properly motivated, unskilled, etc. because you won't do SMT. I love kit SMT PCBs...as long as the SMT parts have been machine pre-assembled on the PCB before I have to put other parts on the PCB (example...MFJ Cub QRP kits). That's the appropriate and intended use of SMT technology. Any kit that requires manual SMT application above one or two large parts is a kludge design that I would *never* buy under any circumstance. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
EricJ wrote: built some SMT kits that weren't significantly smaller than they would have been using traditional 1/8 resistors mounted on end. And I've built some Conversely, I have built an incredibly small adapter into a DB9 minishell using ordinary components, just for the sake of let's see if it can be done ;-) As long as plain through-hole components are still available, I won't feel the urge to try SMT-by-hand. B73, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it /Amateur radio: IZ4FHT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
I had a hard enough time finding a magnifier for the normal components (yes I am that old!) so SMDs are way beyond my meager eyesight and shakey hands. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of EricJ Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:42 PM To: 'Mike Morrow'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx Heh heh heh. I've been their target on QRP-L. Almost 50 years ago, my friends gave me a cigarette to try. I did. I puked for hours afterward. They all laughed and said I'd get used to it. I asked them, But why would I want to? It's remained a good test for me in other things in my life. SMTs were made for cheap machine assembly or to save space where it is important to save space. As hams, we have different requirements than consumer electronic manufacturers. We can pop for the 5 cent resistor instead of the 2 cent SMT equivalent. And there is no labor saving hand assembling with SMTs. If anything it takes longer. Our gear is usually large enough to meet our needs for tuning knobs, etc. so space is rarely the overriding consideration. I've built some SMT kits that weren't significantly smaller than they would have been using traditional 1/8 resistors mounted on end. And I've built some that were very small, but could easily have been twice as big and still fit where they were supposed to go. SMTs for SMT's sake is pointless. I'm NOT saying they have no place in ham radio. Where the overriding objective is small size, such as the ATS-III, SMTs are the only way to go and it is deemed worth it for a relatively small number of experienced builders. Anyway, I don't bother with SMT kits anymore for one very simple fact. They aren't fun for me. I'm a hobbyist, not a manufacturer. Elecraft and other kit builders are selling fun as much as they are selling ham gear. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: Mike Morrow [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 8:57 AM To: EricJ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx Eric wrote: Maybe many hams don't consider building with SMTs relaxing or fun although THEY CAN DO IT. It may not be that hard, but for many it is not much FUN. snip many other good points Maybe we forget that SMTs were developed for MACHINE assembly, not hand assembly. snip many more good points I might as well get one built better than hand assembly by some machine. Hi Eric, You make many excellent and well-stated points. I agree with every one of them. But watch out for the ire of the wage holy war for SMT folks out there who will imply that you're reactionary, ignorant, stupid, out of date, out of step, lazy, not properly motivated, unskilled, etc. because you won't do SMT. I love kit SMT PCBs...as long as the SMT parts have been machine pre-assembled on the PCB before I have to put other parts on the PCB (example...MFJ Cub QRP kits). That's the appropriate and intended use of SMT technology. Any kit that requires manual SMT application above one or two large parts is a kludge design that I would *never* buy under any circumstance. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2 Balun Enclosure and drilling Altoid tins
EricJ wrote: With a 1 dollar brad point bit, I'd be out of the workshop and half done with the installation before you chucked up the deburring bit in your Dremel tool. Perfect holes, precisely sized with no flash to clean up and no unsightly grind marks on the inside of the case when I show it off. Maybe Jay Leno would let us do an Altoids Tin Shoot-out. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tony Morgan Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 9:25 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2 Balun Enclosure and drilling Altoid tins Here is a link with a good pictorial on creating holes in an Altoids tin. I have used this method using a T-Handle reamer from Ace Hardware and it works great. http://www.radioactivehams.com/~n0rc/rm/enclosure/altoids_enclosure.html 73, Tony W7GO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Yes, I'd sure like to be on the Tonight show. Don't forget your drill press, I'll bring my Dremel ; ) Tony W7GO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 / S-Meter-Menu
Hi all, just finished the KX1.I think the rig works well. I have a difference in the S-meter menu. I see H 2 to H 7 (adjust with Band and RIT) - that is ok. But in the other way I see L40 to L99, adjust with the VFO knob. That´s different to the manual. Any suggestions? 72, Klaus DL8MTG K2 # 022 KX1 # 750 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] test
test ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SMT - Was Re: Wayne on KNBx
Like it or not, we are seeing another transition in kit building. Just as some of us witnessed the transition from tubes to transistors, we are now seeing the beginning of the transition from parts with leads to SMT. I would guess that in ten years or so it will be increasingly difficult to find parts with leads. Perhaps those of us that are uncomfortable with SMT should start stocking up on discrete parts and parts with leads. I successfully made the transition from tubes to transistors and am beginning to embrace the transition to SMT. I just received one of Steve Weber's ATSIII kits. It is the most dense SMT kit I have attempted so far, but I am convinced that I can do it. Steve did teach me something new about SMT. He said to hold down the small parts with a toothpick with some beeswax on it. I could have used that info when assembling the AA-908. I was holding a really small part with tweezers when twang it went off to somewhere. I never did find it and had to wait for the arrival of its replacement. Jim, W4BQP Happy owner of K2 #2268 and a bunch of other Elecraft do-dads. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS K1/AT
I have a real nice K1, with built in elecraft antenna tuner, 4 band module,40,30,20,15, tilt up desk stand, $385.00, plus shipping. Nick [EMAIL PROTECTED],303-258-7901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX1 / S-Meter-Menu
Klaus, DL8MTG wrote: I have a difference in the S-meter menu. I see H 2 to H 7 (adjust with Band and RIT) - that is ok. But in the other way I see L40 to L99, adjust with the VFO knob. That´s different to the manual. Any suggestions? --- That's correct, Klaus. The correct ranges are shown in Rev B of the manual, dated November 3, 2003. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] SMT - Was Re: Wayne on KNBx
Jim: I used to design electronic instrumentation at Oak Ridge National Laboratory, usually built under my direct supervision by the very competent technicians in my research group. However, when we came to installing SMT, we always farmed it out to an expert SMT constructor (a young woman with extremely steady hands and sharp eyes who did the SMT work for the whole Division). Admittedly, we did that for cost effectiveness of construction, and arguably, the cost of the time of an amateur constructor need not be taken into account. Perhaps it is possible for the typical amateur constructor to learn how to build SMT gear. However, as Wayne pointed out in a post some months back, there is another issue with SMT. It is extremely costly for the kit manufacturer to support amateur constructors of SMT when the constructed kit fails to work correctly. If SMT kits are to become popular among amateur builders and profitable to the vendors, then some cost effective means of technical support needs to be devised. 73, Steve AA4AK At 03:19 PM 7/19/2005 -0400, you wrote: Like it or not, we are seeing another transition in kit building. Just as some of us witnessed the transition from tubes to transistors, we are now seeing the beginning of the transition from parts with leads to SMT. I would guess that in ten years or so it will be increasingly difficult to find parts with leads. Perhaps those of us that are uncomfortable with SMT should start stocking up on discrete parts and parts with leads. I successfully made the transition from tubes to transistors and am beginning to embrace the transition to SMT. I just received one of Steve Weber's ATSIII kits. It is the most dense SMT kit I have attempted so far, but I am convinced that I can do it. Steve did teach me something new about SMT. He said to hold down the small parts with a toothpick with some beeswax on it. I could have used that info when assembling the AA-908. I was holding a really small part with tweezers when twang it went off to somewhere. I never did find it and had to wait for the arrival of its replacement. Jim, W4BQP Happy owner of K2 #2268 and a bunch of other Elecraft do-dads. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] SMT - Was Re: Wayne on KNBx
Like it or not, we are seeing another transition in kit building. Just as some of us witnessed the transition from tubes to transistors, we are now seeing the beginning of the transition from parts with leads to SMT. I would guess that in ten years or so it will be increasingly difficult to find parts with leads. There's a fundamental difference between the two watershed moments you describe. The shift from tubes to transistors brought new capabilities. These were primarily the result of the need for less power and the dramatic change in size. Being able to do the same thing in a smaller package that required less power and dissipated less heat brought about lots of innovation. The shift from leaded parts to surface-mount parts is different. It is a change of form to accommodate automated assembly. There is some change in size but overall it's the same stuff in a different-looking package. There are things the old parts can do that the new ones can't. For example I have resistors in my airplane soldered inline with fuses. It would be impossible to replace this with a leadless part and impractical to design a circuit board to hold a resistor and a fuse for the sole purpose of using a surface-mount part. One could argue that the shift from tubes to transistors is no different. Transistors weren't plug-n-play compatible with the tubes they replaced, so it was probably imagined that tubes would be around for a while. The problem is that there was no application (other than repairing existing units) where tubes had an advantage. In the case of leaded vs. leadless parts, there are clear examples of the benefit of keeping around the old human-handlable parts. Surface-mount is the antithesis of kit building by its very nature. The devices were built for the very purpose of being installed onto circuit boards by machines, not people. Kit building is driven precisely by the desire to create something by hand, without the use of machines. This is (one of the reasons) why I don't get excited when I see kits like the Sienna (www.getboost.com/dz). It's all preassembled. Surface-mount technology has been in practical use for a very long time and hasn't yet supplanted leaded parts. I can imagine there could come a time when it won't be financially practical to manufacture every variety of IC in both SMT and DIP formats, I'm having a harder time imagining leadless resistors and capacitors replacing their leaded counterparts. Write back in ten years and we'll see how it turned out. :-) Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2 #4941 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] SMT - Was Re: Wayne on KNBx
Even though I have used SMT parts in my personal projects Craig, I agree with most of what you have said, and avoid them in projects aimed at kit builders. I will take exception, however, with your last statement. We are well past the point where every variety of IC is available in both SMT and DIP format. Almost all new parts are available only in SMT, or even dies, especially in the communications market. This is because the designs are driven mainly by the wireless/cellular market where size is paramount. It should be noted also that performance generally suffers with leaded parts in RF circuits. Parasitic strays in bypass caps, chokes, resistors and other simple parts are far lower in SMT parts. This may not matter much in HF gear, although even in HF gear it is often important to have unconditional stability into the UHF range. 73, Larry N8LP www.telepostinc.com Craig Rairdin wrote: Surface-mount technology has been in practical use for a very long time and hasn't yet supplanted leaded parts. I can imagine there could come a time when it won't be financially practical to manufacture every variety of IC in both SMT and DIP formats, I'm having a harder time imagining leadless resistors and capacitors replacing their leaded counterparts. Write back in ten years and we'll see how it turned out. :-) Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2 #4941 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, EricJ wrote: I'll pass on the beta testing. I'll probably pass on an SMT kit. I build for fun. If it isn't fun, I might as well get one built better than hand assembly by some machine. But, Maybe some of us that would like to operate who can't now because the existing noise blanker doesn't do the job for us would, perish the thought, buy an assembled noise blanker. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx - To SMT or not to SMT - That is the question!
Gotta get my two cents in here too.. I'll try anything once (except something that is detrimental to my health)...but...it seems that if the designer needs more components to make something work...well why not make the everything bigger. Small little radios are nice...but...large radios will work just as well. Really, SMT is designed to get more stuff in a small place...well...if you need more stuff to make the circuit work...then use a bigger space and use bigger components for us who are SMT challenged. Of course this argument is stupid if you consider what it would take to make a K2 with tubesoh yes it would be a KWM2A on steroids. Lee - K0WA Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it. If you can't find any common sense, ask for help from somebody that has some common sense. - Lee Buller ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] SMT
On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, Vic Rosenthal wrote: If we want the best performance and to take advantage of modern components, we will need to use SMT. So most likely, future kits will include machine-made SMT subassemblies which will be put together by the builder. Is this bad? I don't think so. I didn't complain about not building the microprocessor in my K2! I'm starting to wonder about the reading skills of some folks.one of the concerns expressed about the noise blanker in the K2 was that it wasn't effective for many folks. Seems to me that while it's fine to build a kit and be proud of it, there are certain instances when there's more to the story. There are some owners of K2s that can not build...but aquired their units because they wanted to operate and the K2 appealed to them. It seems to me, but I am one of those can't build it folks, that there isn't a lot of sense saying that a noise blanker for the K2 MUST be a non-SMT Kit. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] SMT
Vic wrote: ... most likely, future kits will include machine-made SMT subassemblies which will be put together by the builder. Is this bad? I don't think so. I didn't complain about not building the microprocessor in my K2! I think it would be great. Think of the construction time saved, the reduced opportunities for construction errors and missing parts, and the increased completed system reliability that would result. I know there's not a whole lot of regard for the little MFJ Cub QRP rigs that have been out for a few years, but one of the really wonderful pioneering characteristics of this kit is the use of pre-assembled SMTs on the PCB for all the mundane and boring components like fixed-value resistors, capacitors, transistors, and ICs. The components that are hand assembled are the frequency determining inductors, transformers, crystals, variable resistors, connectors, etc. As a result, there is very little in the way of small parts to inventory or lose, and the kit goes together in no time. If only the Cub design had used a separate LC VFO stage rather than using the one that is integral to the first 612 IC to reduce drift, and used a larger non-SMT PA driver transistor (better key-down power output stability), these would be quite servicable. I'd have loved it if my K1 kits had been predominantly pre-assembled SMT. In fact, that's one of the few things I can think of to improve the K1. I'd buy a mostly pre-assembled SMT version of a KX1 in a heartbeat. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SMT
Hmmm ... lots of opinions on SMT here -- approaching the volume of opinions on knobs? I'm planning to take my K2 (ATU, no NB, stock knob+dimple) somewhere here in the Sierra Nevada and be a bumblebee in the Flight of the Bumblebees on 7/31. First time my K2 has been in the field. Hope to work a bunch of Elecrafters. Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw CU in the Cal QSO Party Oct 1-2 (I'll be with N6A in Alpine County) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] SMT
Jerry, NR5A wrote: The worse part of building any kit to me is those stinking nasty torroids (sic), I hate them with a passion. If I were going to have any parts on a kit premounted it would be those horrible things. hi hi hi --- And that's why we have Mychael the toroid guy to take those cares away with Elecraft approved ready-to-drop-in your board toroids! ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
I have no problem with that. I'd probably buy it myself fully assembled to contend with my S5-S8 afternoon noise level. My last sentence quoted below actually says that. BUT, if Elecraft starts offering more and more pressembled kits, don't they begin to fundamentally change what Elecraft means to hams? And would they lose the niche advantage they enjoy right now? That is, do they just become an American version of Yaesu/Kenwood/Icom/whatever packaging Made in China circuit boards in gee-whiz cases? I don't know the answer to that. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: Thom R LaCosta [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 1:35 PM To: EricJ Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, EricJ wrote: I'll pass on the beta testing. I'll probably pass on an SMT kit. I build for fun. If it isn't fun, I might as well get one built better than hand assembly by some machine. But, Maybe some of us that would like to operate who can't now because the existing noise blanker doesn't do the job for us would, perish the thought, buy an assembled noise blanker. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 vs K2 opinions (summary)
Thank you all for the help. This is what I am left with after all your help: K2: far better base specs (performance and features) much easier to operate more space to experiment K1: smaller simpler unquantifyably easier on the ear If it was not for the last point under the K1 this would be so simple. :-) David, K3TUE . --- David Toepfer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On the surface it seems a silly question. I am considering finally purchasing one of the above, but the decision actually seems to be a struggle. So I guess I'll ask for some voices of experiences. *** What I do not need: I do not need something that will operate anything other than CW, so I don't need the ability to send SSB or the IF bandwidth to receive SSB (I love the simple variable bandwidth of my KX1). I do not need something that will operate on bands I can't get for a K1 (80-15 is fine, and I have the info on how to do 160 if I wish). I do not need power beyond what I can get from a K1 (5W is fine). I do not need computer control or direct frequency entry. *** What I have heard: I have heard some state that they actually feel that the LC VFO in the K1 is quieter and nicer than the PLL VFO in the K2. I have likewise heard some say that they feel the K1 is more sensative than the K2 (thought I do not recall why, save just personal impression). *** What I am looking for: Opinions? David, K3TUE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] SMT
You build my SMT stuff and I'll wind toroids for you! Did you get your ATS-III yet? Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NR5A Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 2:56 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT SMT's I don't think I mind, since that was my job for 9 years. A rework operator where I dealth with SMTs all day long. Using a microscope, and really thin solder. Here at home now that I have disabilty and lots of free time I'm going to try a SMT kit or two. The worse part of building any kit to me is those stinking nasty torroids, I hate them with a passion. If I were going to have any parts on a kit premounted it would be those horrible things. hi hi hi Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Solar Charger
David N. wrote: Hello all. I just installed the KBT2 battery kit in my K2. I have a 5 watt unisolar flex panel Same setup here. The design of the KBT2 does not regulate voltage - it just regulates a small current to float charge the battery. It's specifically designed for an external, approximately 14 volt supply. If you want to charge the 2.9 AH battery up fast, by all means you can connect it directly to the PV panel, but you must monitor the battery voltage as it will try to climb very high. The voltage must be regulated - a common method is to use a small charge controller such as the Micro M+ from SunLogic (owned by a ham) (http://www.seslogic.com/microm+.html) or Don Brown (I think that's the fellow - he offered it here again just in the last day or two). My older Micro M is external - I used one of the transverter holes to add a coaxial jack, clearly separated from the main power, that runs direct to the battery. The charge controller has to bypass the resistor and diode included in the KBT2 kit and see the battery directly. I've heard that others have added the Micro M internally to the K2 lid, but I haven't seen one. Some hams also have used a zener diode to clamp the voltage down. This means, however, that the zener must dissipate the excess power, and may get warm. I've never tried this method. Hope this helps. -- 73, Mike Boice, KW1ND Karns, TN Behold the power of the penguin Reclaim Your Inbox! http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Wayne on KNBx
On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, EricJ wrote: I have no problem with that. I'd probably buy it myself fully assembled to contend with my S5-S8 afternoon noise level. My last sentence quoted below actually says that. Sorry if I mis-read it. BUT, if Elecraft starts offering more and more pressembled kits, don't they begin to fundamentally change what Elecraft means to hams? And would they lose the niche advantage they enjoy right now? That is, do they just become an American version of Yaesu/Kenwood/Icom/whatever packaging Made in China circuit boards in gee-whiz cases? I don't know the answer to that. Interesting problemthat's why I suggested that some enterprizing person(s) offer pre-built/kit noise blankers. I suppose the real purists wouldn't buy a mike or paddle from ELecraft since they are either third party or pre-assembled. Geeyour noise level is only S8that's pretty quiet(g). 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Replacement Hand Microphone
Hi Everybody! My MH2 Mic is missing in action. I'm sure that whoever has it now needs it much more than I do. What is the hand Mic of choice amongst this august group? Any suggestions are most welcome. Best Regards, Bob K7HBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #4913 160m issue?
My VFO range on 160m is 1330-1941. The rig stops tuning outside this range. I didn't notice it until tonight because I rarely tune outside of 1800-1900. At first I suspected the 80/160m bandpass inductors which I never readjusted after I installed the 160m module. I didn't do that because I was getting full power into a dummy load across both bands with L3/L4 peaked for 80m only. Might this be another clue? My VFO won't tune above 4.104, either. All the other bands seem fine. I just tweaked L3/L4 for a good compromise of power on *both* bands but I still can't get the VFO to cover all of 160m. Help? Ken KG0WX K2 #4913 (Firmware 204p) -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.9.2/52 - Release Date: 7/19/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Torroids
The worse part of building any kit to me is those stinking nasty torroids, I hate them with a passion. :-) I've found for the K2 and KPA100 I do the torroids while I'm waiting for some other time-consuming task. I just got to the page in the KPA100 manual where you do like 12 torroids all at one time. I've been creating CD-ROM masters for a new product we have coming out, and the time to write a CD is just about enough time to wind a torroid. Whipped through 'em pretty quick. The other thing I've found that helps is that I get up, take off my magnifying glasses, and walk around while I wind. Otherwise I'm hunched over the bench staring at little loops of wire for minutes at a time. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2 #4941 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Rework Eliminator(TM) Brand K2 Un-Module Header Accessory Kit
We are now accepting orders for our PCB based K2 un-module header kit. We have priced it as low as possible, with the intention that every K2 owner can find sufficient justification for having a set. Being that it is a kit, the K2 is the kind of radio that you just naturally want to get your hands into. We wonder how many K2 owners who would like, or perhaps even need to be digging into their rigs, aren't doing so simply because of the time required to do it right. We realize that our kit isn't for everyone, and that most un-module headers can be replaced with the appropriate gauge jumper wire or a single cap. However, this solution assumes that every K2 owner has the necessary parts on hand, knows where they need to be installed, and actually installs them in the correct location. (Remember that some K2 owners either bought theirs used, or from a builder-for-hire.) Then there's the UN-J12/KNB2 header, which isn't so easy. Plus, even using the KE1L approach of soldering the parts directly onto headers, there's still no way to fabricate an Audio Filter un-module. Once installed, an un-module header becomes a functional part of your radio. Because of this, and given the inherently superior mechanical and electrical reliability of PCB based construction, we recommend our kit to every K2 owner. No matter how yours is configured, it is likely that this is a worthwhile investment for you. As with insurance, first-aid kits, umbrellas, spare tires, and jumper cables, this may be a worthwhile accessory to have on hand just in case you ever do need it. To learn lots more, please visit our vastly expanded RoadRunner hosted webpage at http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/unpcbs.htm 73, Gary, KI4GGX Ken, WB2ART ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
