I understand where you are coming from, Darrell. That is bad.. I have
been a ham since 1961 and really never found a NB that worked really good in
the house. Usually it also distorts the audio. Now, in a vehicle I have
found that the NB does work good usually.
Paul Gates
K1 #0231
KX1 #1186
Just a reminder, tomorrow (Wednesday night) is the next NAQCC 80/40 Sprint !
For details, please see: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/sprint200507.html
And remember, a certificate will be awarded to the highest score earned
by a truly portable station using emergency power.
73 de Larry W2LJ
Wayne, regarding your post on an upgraded KNB2. The time has come for all
of us in the kit building community to embrace surface mount. We need to
start installing these devices ourselves. It's really not that hard. I've
done it and it is easy to do if you are careful and have good instruction.
Why does that imply pre-assembly? Lots of us out here are perfectly
comfortable with SMT, and there's enuf builders-for-hire to support
those who aren't ...
de w1rt
On 7/18/05, wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks, everyone, for all the input on noise blankers.
A more sophisticated
And, the big bugaboo of kitting smt devices (no markings) is easily
remedied.
You get the parts sorted on strips. Use spray paint!
If you need more than 8 colors, I'd be quite surprised.
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
snip
The time has come for all of us in the kit building community to embrace
I haven't tried this myself yet, but I've read it somewhere ---
To drill holes in the Altoid tins, fill the tin with water and freeze it.
Then you will have a solid backing when you drill.
Give it a shot, worst case you mess up the tin and you get to eat more mints.
GL
Tom
WB2QDG
K2
Dear all,
I am using the K2 DSP option from the beginning, which is (technically)
working fine. But I am constantly
switching it off, because it's swallowing weak signals (especially CW
signals).
I am using the default values of the DSP option. Does anybody has
experience how to use the DSP
Eric,
You may want to look for a hole punch. There are plier
like devices that should make nice clean holes in the
sizes you need (at least in the ends). They are
reasonably priced, or you may be able to find one at a
hamfest or flea market.
http://www.nextag.com/metal-hole-punch/search-html
For
Dan,
PVC plumbing pipe is one of the easiest options to
use. If you need access, there are also weather
sealable plastic electrical jboxes. Virtually any
hardware store (definitely Home Depot and Loews)
should have them on the shelf.
Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
You know I have one of those punches. I thought it was just for leather! I
have made holes in my belts since I have lost 40 lbs! I bet they would work
on thin tin.
Paul Gates
K1 #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL
Hello all. I just installed the KBT2 battery kit in my
K2. I have a 5 watt unisolar flex panel that I would
like to use to charge/run the K2 with especially for
field day, portable, etc...
My panel puts out 17.5 volts no load at a rated 5
watts according to the company. I read in the KBT2
Manual
Hi all,
In my previous email I had described that I had my kpa100 working in the K2
enclosure but that it had died when I tried to install it in the EC2 case.
I was getting info 080 and Lyle Johnson had suggested a problem with the
aux bus line.
I have refined search down to the 5 V line that
On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, John D'Ausilio wrote:
Why does that imply pre-assembly? Lots of us out here are perfectly
comfortable with SMT, and there's enuf builders-for-hire to support
those who aren't ...
An interesting, and market driven to boot, approach would be if some
enterprizing
Hello all,
Do you know where the longest covered bridge in the world was located?
Guess Canada - wrong! The longest covered bridge in the world was
located close to my home qth. Still wondering where? It was located in
Lancaster County, PA and it crossed the Susquehanna River at a length of
over
Kevin
I use DPDT relays here to switch my 450 ohm feedlines.
Works very well.
73, Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kevin Rock
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 5:03 PM
To: Elecraft; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] A/B antenna switch
A few thoughts
Maybe Elecraft is the gold standard for kit building because they DON'T use
SMTs.
Maybe many hams don't consider building with SMTs relaxing or fun although
THEY CAN DO IT. It may not be that hard, but for many it is not much FUN.
Maybe Elecraft realizes the number one kit
If I lived in a fish shack in Minnesota, drilling a box full of ice in
mid-winter might be practical (thank GOD, I don't) On my workbench in So
Cal...maybe not so much.
But with a simple, inexpensive brad point bit available at any Ace Hdwe,
Lowe's,Home Depot or Harbor Freight, you don't need a
I have used paper punches and the Harbor Freight heavy duty hand punch with
interchangeable dies. The paper punch can only punch one size hole, then you
have to hand ream an ugly gash of a hole to get the right size. The HB punch
is heavy and unwieldy and won't reach down far enough down the side
Hello all,
The Amateur Radio Covered Bridge Society or ARCBS still needs more radio
ops to activate covered bridges for this grand event to be held
September 3- 4, 2005. If you can spare the weekend, a day or an hour or
two, please respond by email to mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
This will be the
Joe Squarzini wrote:
Wayne, regarding your post on an upgraded KNB2. The time has come for
all of us in the kit building community to embrace surface mount. We
need to start installing these devices ourselves. It's really not that
hard.
There's a difference between replacing a couple of
Renardy, Martin wrote:
I am using the default values of the DSP option. Does anybody has
experience how to use the DSP
digging weak signals out off the noise?
I've found that it helps to reduce the Decay parameter from the default
to about 30 for weak-signal CW reception. This makes the
Steve,
First remove the regulator which you suspect anyway. If that does not
remove the short, then start removing one component at a time until you find
it. A good de-soldering tool makes the task a lot easier, and if the price
of the potential parts replacement is high, perhaps it is time to
Eric wrote:
Maybe many hams don't consider building with SMTs relaxing or fun although
THEY CAN DO IT. It may not be that hard, but for many it is not much FUN.
snip many other good points
Maybe we forget that SMTs were developed for MACHINE assembly, not hand
assembly.
snip many more good
Here is a link with a good pictorial on creating holes in an Altoids tin.
I have used this method using a T-Handle reamer from Ace Hardware and it
works great.
http://www.radioactivehams.com/~n0rc/rm/enclosure/altoids_enclosure.html
73,
Tony W7GO
Heh heh heh. I've been their target on QRP-L. Almost 50 years ago, my
friends gave me a cigarette to try. I did. I puked for hours afterward. They
all laughed and said I'd get used to it. I asked them, But why would I want
to? It's remained a good test for me in other things in my life.
SMTs were
EricJ wrote:
built some SMT kits that weren't significantly smaller than they would have
been using traditional 1/8 resistors mounted on end. And I've built some
Conversely, I have built an incredibly small adapter into a DB9
minishell using ordinary components, just for the sake of let's see
I had a hard enough time finding a magnifier for the normal components (yes
I am that old!) so SMDs are way beyond my meager eyesight and shakey hands.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of EricJ
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:42 PM
To: 'Mike
EricJ wrote:
With a 1 dollar brad point bit, I'd be out of the workshop and half done
with the installation before you chucked up the deburring bit in your Dremel
tool. Perfect holes, precisely sized with no flash to clean up and no
unsightly grind marks on the inside of the case when I show it
Hi all,
just finished the KX1.I think the rig works well.
I have a difference in the S-meter menu.
I see H 2 to H 7 (adjust with Band and RIT) - that is ok.
But in the other way I see L40 to L99, adjust with the VFO knob.
That´s different to the manual.
Any suggestions?
72,
Klaus DL8MTG
K2 #
test
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Help:
Like it or not, we are seeing another transition in kit building. Just
as some of us witnessed
the transition from tubes to transistors, we are now seeing the
beginning of the transition from
parts with leads to SMT. I would guess that in ten years or so it will
be increasingly difficult
to
I have a real nice K1, with built in elecraft antenna tuner, 4 band
module,40,30,20,15, tilt up desk stand, $385.00, plus shipping. Nick
[EMAIL PROTECTED],303-258-7901
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a
Klaus, DL8MTG wrote:
I have a difference in the S-meter menu. I see H 2 to H 7 (adjust with Band
and RIT) - that is ok. But in the other way I see L40 to L99, adjust with
the VFO knob. That´s different to the manual. Any suggestions?
---
That's correct, Klaus. The correct
Jim:
I used to design electronic instrumentation at Oak Ridge National
Laboratory, usually built under my direct supervision by the very competent
technicians in my research group. However, when we came to installing SMT,
we always farmed it out to an expert SMT constructor (a young woman
Like it or not, we are seeing another transition in kit building. Just
as some of us witnessed the transition from tubes to transistors, we
are now seeing the beginning of the transition from parts with leads
to SMT. I would guess that in ten years or so it will be
increasingly difficult
Even though I have used SMT parts in my personal projects Craig, I agree
with most of what you have said, and avoid them in projects aimed at kit
builders. I will take exception, however, with your last statement. We
are well past the point where every variety of IC is available in both
SMT
On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, EricJ wrote:
I'll pass on the beta testing. I'll probably pass on an SMT kit. I build for
fun. If it isn't fun, I might as well get one built better than hand
assembly by some machine.
But, Maybe some of us that would like to operate who can't now because the
existing
Gotta get my two cents in here too..
I'll try anything once (except something that is
detrimental to my health)...but...it seems that if the
designer needs more components to make something
work...well why not make the everything bigger. Small
little radios are nice...but...large radios
On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, Vic Rosenthal wrote:
If we want the best performance and to take advantage of modern components,
we will need to use SMT. So most likely, future kits will include
machine-made SMT subassemblies which will be put together by the builder.
Is this bad? I don't think so.
Vic wrote:
... most likely, future kits will include machine-made SMT subassemblies
which will be put together by the builder.
Is this bad? I don't think so. I didn't complain about not building
the microprocessor in my K2!
I think it would be great. Think of the construction time saved,
Hmmm ... lots of opinions on SMT here -- approaching the volume of
opinions on knobs?
I'm planning to take my K2 (ATU, no NB, stock knob+dimple) somewhere
here in the Sierra Nevada and be a bumblebee in the Flight of the
Bumblebees on 7/31. First time my K2 has been in the field. Hope to
Jerry, NR5A wrote:
The worse part of building any kit to me is those stinking nasty torroids
(sic), I hate them with a passion. If I were going to have any parts on a
kit premounted it would be those horrible things. hi hi hi
---
And that's why we have Mychael the toroid
I have no problem with that. I'd probably buy it myself fully assembled to
contend with my S5-S8 afternoon noise level. My last sentence quoted below
actually says that.
BUT, if Elecraft starts offering more and more pressembled kits, don't they
begin to fundamentally change what Elecraft means
Thank you all for the help. This is what I am left with after all your help:
K2:
far better base specs (performance and features)
much easier to operate
more space to experiment
K1:
smaller
simpler
unquantifyably easier on the ear
If it was not for the last point under the K1 this would be so
You build my SMT stuff and I'll wind toroids for you!
Did you get your ATS-III yet?
Eric
KE6US
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NR5A
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 2:56 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT
SMT's I don't
David N. wrote:
Hello all. I just installed the KBT2 battery kit in my
K2. I have a 5 watt unisolar flex panel
Same setup here.
The design of the KBT2 does not regulate voltage - it just regulates a
small current to float charge the battery. It's specifically designed
for an external,
On Tue, 19 Jul 2005, EricJ wrote:
I have no problem with that. I'd probably buy it myself fully assembled to
contend with my S5-S8 afternoon noise level. My last sentence quoted below
actually says that.
Sorry if I mis-read it.
BUT, if Elecraft starts offering more and more pressembled
Hi Everybody! My MH2 Mic is missing in action. I'm sure that whoever has
it now needs it much more than I do. What is the hand Mic of choice
amongst this august group? Any suggestions are most welcome.
Best Regards, Bob K7HBG
___
Elecraft mailing
My VFO range on 160m is 1330-1941. The rig stops tuning
outside this range. I didn't notice it until tonight because I rarely
tune outside of 1800-1900.
At first I suspected the 80/160m bandpass inductors which I
never readjusted after I installed the 160m module. I didn't do
that because I was
The worse part of building any kit to me is those stinking nasty
torroids, I hate them with a passion.
:-) I've found for the K2 and KPA100 I do the torroids while I'm waiting for
some other time-consuming task. I just got to the page in the KPA100 manual
where you do like 12 torroids all at
We are now accepting orders for our PCB based K2 un-module header kit.
We have priced it as low as possible, with the intention that every K2
owner can find sufficient justification for having a set.
Being that it is a kit, the K2 is the kind of radio that you just
naturally want to get
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