The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 65 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? Removing Heater Elements from seats (e30) Re: [M3] Removing Heater Elements from seats (e30) Re: To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? Re: To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? Re: FS: 3 sets of brake pads for E36/E46, $75 for all Brake pin lube Re: E36 M3 Battery Q Crumple zones How the E30 Power Antenna Works Re: How the E30 Power Antenna Works Re: To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 17:57:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 12/20/03 7:42 PM, Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Not sure if that is what you call them. > You know, the pins that hold the caliper to the brake carrier. > > Bentley says not to lube them. Other's to say to lube them. > Since I swap my brakes a couple dozen times a year Me too. > maybe Bentley is wrong. What kind of lube do I use? I use Silglyde. > Something that I can pick up at Napa? Yep. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 15:09:38 -0800 From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Removing Heater Elements from seats (e30) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, Has anyone removed the heater elements from the seats themselves? I have a messed up seat of heated e30 seats and I would like to remove the heating elements and insert them into my seats... Any help with this procedure would be greatly appreciated. Chris ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 18:20:45 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Chris Marino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [M3] Removing Heater Elements from seats (e30) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> They are held in by friction in the "tubes" formed by stitching in the seats. Take the covers off completely by removing or opening the hog rings holding the cover on. The elements can be carefully withdrawn from the lining of the seat covering. I recommend you test them with a meter or 12V to ensure they work before you reinstall them. If the element is broken, you cannot solder the wire, it won't take solder. I repair them by making a solderless crimp connector out of a short section of a brass ball point pen refill. stick one end of the broken wire in from each end of your "connector" and crimp with pliers. Ed Chris Marino wrote: >Group, > >Has anyone removed the heater elements from the seats themselves? I >have a messed up seat of heated e30 seats and I would like to remove the >heating elements and insert them into my seats... > >Any help with this procedure would be greatly appreciated. > >Chris > >______________________________________________ >E30 M3 SIG Premier Sponsors: > http://www.turnermotorsport.com (Turner Motorsport) > http://www.bimmerworld.com (bimmerworld) > http://www.vacmotorsports.com (VAC Motorsports) > http://www.cbmwnh.com (Covered Bridge Motor Werks) > http://www.iigomotiv.com (iigomotiv) > http://www.bmwcca.org (BMW Car Club of America) >_______________________________________________ >To manage your account, please see http://www.bimmers.com/m3/help.html >Archives: http://www.bimmers.com/archives/m3 > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 14:58:35 -0800 From: "Jason Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm always paranoid that they'll back out, which happened to a friend on his Firebird. Consequently, I wail on the suckers whenever I change pads and any time I have the wheels off. Makes it a bit more difficult to loosen them later, but that's what dead blow hammers are for. Jason -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steven Schlossman Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 1:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Not sure if that is what you call them. You know, the pins that hold the caliper to the brake carrier. Bentley says not to lube them. Other's to say to lube them. Since I swap my brakes a couple dozen times a year maybe Bentley is wrong. What kind of lube do I use? Something that I can pick up at Napa? -- ...steven 2003 MCS EB/W 1996 328ti __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 18:15:32 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> When our cars were new, Ate used white nylon inserts in the rubber bushings that protect the guide pins and form the bearing surface. Later production of these rubber bushings lack the nylon insert. When the nylon was present, we were advised not to use lube because it would trap dirt which could make the bushing stick on the guide pin, causing uneven pad wear. I use disc brake guide lube from the Ford dealer (I've had it since I had the first Taurus sold in MD in 1985, it doesn't take much) on the edges of the pads and where they bear on the caliper brackets. I use Ford's silicone dielectric grease on the pins themselves. This was state of the art for Ford in 1985, may be bad info, now. Ed Steven Schlossman wrote: > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Not sure if that is what you call them. > You know, the pins that hold the caliper to the brake carrier. > > Bentley says not to lube them. Other's to say to lube them. > Since I swap my brakes a couple dozen times a year maybe Bentley is > wrong. > What kind of lube do I use? Something that I can pick up at Napa? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 20:21:14 -0500 From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, BMW AutoX List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, BMW E46 Mailing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: FS: 3 sets of brake pads for E36/E46, $75 for all Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The pads have been sold! (Thanks, Ben!) Anyone interested in a pair of 15mm wheel spacers (including lugs) from Rogue Engineering? They were only on the car for two weeks, but they were about 2mm too big. :-( They were $105 new; make me an offer! Regards, Steve Steve Lilley wrote: > For sale: 3 complete sets of brake pads (front and rear) for > E46 323/328 and E36 non-M 6-cylinder cars. Help me clean out > my garage now that I've sold my Y2K 323i! First $75 takes all > three sets, including shipping within the contiguous US. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2003 21:18:15 -0500 From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Brake pin lube Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 04:42 PM 12/20/03 -0800, you wrote: >To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? I always use graphite disc brake lube on the pins, I can't se how it could be a bad thing..I've never read whether to do it or not in any of the manuals, but the bimmer pins are pretty well encased in rubber, and it seems like the grease couldn't leak out, and I figure that they are sliders, so why not? Dave Leonard ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 13:24:24 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 M3 Battery Q Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 11:55 AM 12/19/03, Herman Chan talked about: >Many people opt for a 48/91 battery, in the guise of the Interstate MTP-91, Just to add my 2 cents, I just recently replaced the OE battery in the '98 M3/4 with an Interstate MTP-91. ~$90 here in the SF Bay Area, got the vent kit. Fits perfectly. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 22:23:20 -0000 From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Crumple zones Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Pavel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: "Actually, it's quite striking to look through the kidney grills on any new BMW and see how much empty space there is in front of the radiator. Crumple zones and impact protection are driving a lot of the styling these days..." The empty space goes behind the radiator, too. Four-pot E46s (with which many of you won't be especially familiar, but with which Pavel will be, as BMW makes some in ZA) have at least two feet of space between the front of the block and the rear of the radiator. There's plenty of plastic panelling, of course, but pull it all out and you could stand in there, feet resting on the front suspension subframe. That the front of the block sits so far behind the front axle means the E46 (in four-banger form, at least) can be considered no less mid-engined than, say, an MR2 or Boxster. Andy T '03 318i 2.0. Midship Runabout, 4-seater ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 15:04:59 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: How the E30 Power Antenna Works Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Allow me to describe how the E30 power antenna works. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. There are four connections to the antenna: 1. The actual antenna lead to give the radio program material to play 2. Ground 3. Red wire which is always hot 4. White wire which tells the antenna motor when to put the mast up or bring it down. My concern here is with 3 and 4. While the red wire provides power to the antenna at all times, the only time it should be drawing current is when power is also coming through the white wire. The white wire should only have power when the ignition is in accessory or run, AND when the radio is turned on. If the ignition or radio are off, there should be no power on the white wire, right? And if there is no power on the white wire, the antenna motor should be drawing no power on the red wire, right? Or did I miss something? Thanks, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i w/ antenna that is always up 1991 325iA w/ antenna that draws 2.4 amps through the red wire even when the ignition and radio are off ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 14:56:34 -0800 (PST) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: How the E30 Power Antenna Works Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott, I think I remember the white wire being a reverse-polarity wire. When the antenna is supposed to go one direction, the polarity is one way, and vice versa for the other direction. I could be wrong, but that makes more sense to me. Your power windows are the same way. Sorry this wasn't much help. Brad Couvillon --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Allow me to describe how the E30 power antenna > works. Someone correct me if > I'm wrong. > > There are four connections to the antenna: > > 1. The actual antenna lead to give the radio > program material to play > 2. Ground > 3. Red wire which is always hot > 4. White wire which tells the antenna motor when to > put the mast up or > bring it down. > > My concern here is with 3 and 4. While the red wire > provides power to the > antenna at all times, the only time it should be > drawing current is when > power is also coming through the white wire. The > white wire should only > have power when the ignition is in accessory or run, > AND when the radio is > turned on. > > If the ignition or radio are off, there should be no > power on the white > wire, right? > > And if there is no power on the white wire, the > antenna motor should be > drawing no power on the red wire, right? > > Or did I miss something? > > Thanks, > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > 1990 325i w/ antenna that is always up > 1991 325iA w/ antenna that draws 2.4 amps through > the red wire even when the > ignition and radio are off __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing. http://photos.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 18:09:47 -0500 From: "C. Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A fourth (fifth?) for using lube. I've always used it. I used to use anti-seize (copper high temp type), which worked fine. At least, I never had any braking issues. One time at a DE the anti-seize was used on one side, but not the other. The "other" side stuck and burned off the pad down to the backing plate. Could be a coincidence - I have no idea. I've since purchased some actual disc brake lube which I now use. Chris B. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Schlossman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 4:41 PM Subject: [UUC] To lube brake carrier pins or not to lube? > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Not sure if that is what you call them. > You know, the pins that hold the caliper to the brake carrier. > > Bentley says not to lube them. Other's to say to lube them. > Since I swap my brakes a couple dozen times a year maybe Bentley is wrong. > What kind of lube do I use? Something that I can pick up at Napa? > -- > ...steven > 2003 MCS EB/W > 1996 328ti > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(12 messages) **********
