The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 189 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Does an E36 need an STB? Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply Re: Does an E36 need an STB? Re: Does an E36 need an STB? Re: Does an E36 need an STB? Re: Not Banned Heat Storage Reservoir E46 M3 RSM part number Torchin' That Sucker! Re: Torchin' That Sucker! Compression test Airbag Surprise!
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 22:51:54 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Does an E36 need an STB? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> in my '74 2002, a strut brace made a significant difference in front end stiffness that you could feel immediately.. the car bit into turns instantly compared to easing into it in my '89 325i (225k miles), a strut brace didn't seem to make any difference, but to install it, I needed to jack up under the centre of the front subframe, climb up and stand on the front fender and gently bounce up and down while pushing the brace onto the strut bolts holding the strut brace over the bolts before hand, it was off by more than 1/4 inch (there's no *way* that's going to fit!) but a bit of leverage and it popped right on! if the front end can be persuaded to shift around by that much by my measly body weight, what's happening under hard cornering with RA1s? that can't be good for camber! e36 and up are way stiffer by design and strut braces don't do much.. but I wonder about long term frame fatigue? will my Z3 (which jiggles and wiggles when you hit railroad tracks) start to get a little more flexible and show signs of frame sag after another 100 k miles?? chris pawlowicz ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 23:00:23 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <grin> Gary Derian > How about the 2nd derivative of the 3rd law of thermodynamics? I bet you > haven't considered that factor!!! > > John Kjos > '99 540i/6: Dinan S1 > '01 525iTa: Stock > Portland, OR > > > The second law of thermodynamics or in other words TANSTAAFL prevents > > running A/C to increase power. > > > > Gary Derian ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 23:20:51 -0500 From: Fernando Mujica <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Does an E36 need an STB? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> IMHO, I don't think braces do much in terms of performance. The first "performance" modifications I did on my M3/4 was to install front, rear and x braces. I don't expect to get any performance out of them. I just hope they help keep the car in one piece since I track and auto-x it regularly. Anyway, I'm one of those that clearly noticed the car being stiffer with the braces on, turn in feels more precise. Faster? Only track times with and without would tell. Fernando '97 M3/4 On May 14, 2004, at 9:19 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 10:40:15 -0700 > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Does an E36 need an STB? > Message-ID: > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I'll further add to this - back around 1990, Steve Dinan gave a > presentation on suspension mods at a GGC general membership meetings. > (This is when we still actually used to have such meetings.) He said > nothing about strut braces. After he was done, someone asked about > strut > braces. His reply went something like this. > > 1. Learn how to drive your car. > 2. When you've learned and are ready for mods, do: > Wheels > Tires > Springs > Shocks > Sway bars > Front and rear camber > 3. Then learn how to drive your car again. > 4. When you can consistently drive your car it its limits, if you > still > need to improve your lap times by a tenth of a second, buy a strut > brace. > > Having said that, here are my observations: > > 1. A car that has had front end damage might better benefit from a > strut > brace than one that has never been damaged. > 2. Many people who own strut braces swear that they can feel the > difference. That may be and I can't argue with them, since I don't > have a > strut brace. But there is a difference between the car feeling > better, and > the car going faster. > 3. Those who have used strut braces say the ones with hinges at each > end > do nothing, but the ones without hinges do, um, something. > 4. Dinan now sells them. If people are going to spend money on > something, > why should he not offer to sell them one? But I wonder how many of > Steve's > customers first ask him his opinion? :^) > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 21:30:54 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Does an E36 need an STB? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On May 14, 2004, at 10:40 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > 4. Dinan now sells them. If people are going to spend money on > something, > why should he not offer to sell them one? But I wonder how many of > Steve's > customers first ask him his opinion? :^) Dinan doesn't just sell strut tower bars, HE SELLS THEM FOR E46 M3'S. (E46 M3's come with one-piece strut tower bars from the factory!) Which should tell you something about whether or not they are effective. (the Dinan ones are hinged, too - sheesh) - Mark ----- [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 07:46:07 -0700 From: "Joe Elwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Does an E36 need an STB? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've always like John Siau's comment when I asked him if I should put in a strut brace. He said: "Yeah, it holds everything together better in a crash". ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Dadgar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, May 14, 2004 9:30 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Does an E36 need an STB? > On May 14, 2004, at 10:40 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > 4. Dinan now sells them. If people are going to spend money on > > something, > > why should he not offer to sell them one? But I wonder how many of > > Steve's > > customers first ask him his opinion? :^) > > Dinan doesn't just sell strut tower bars, HE SELLS THEM FOR E46 M3'S. > > (E46 M3's come with one-piece strut tower bars from the factory!) > > Which should tell you something about whether or not they are effective. > > (the Dinan ones are hinged, too - sheesh) > > - Mark > ----- > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 16:23:03 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Not Banned Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> there's a pretty decent explanation of such a set-up in the UK here : http://www.fhc.co.uk/DIN.htm pretty cool stuff. Ben John Miller wrote: > One would note that the local power utility (Pacific Gas and Electric) > built, twenty or so years ago when Diablo Canyon (their nuke on the Central > California coast) was being built and looked like it'd be providing surplus > off-peak power for the foreseeable future, something called the Helms > Canyon Pumped Storage Project. It consisted of a set of vertical-axis > turbines in an underground cavern between a pair of reservoirs out in the > foothills past Fresno, where during the day water would run downhill > through the turbines and generate peak-use power, and at night the turbines > would be motored to pump the water back UPHILL using all that surplus > off-peak DCPP power. Once again, a net power consumer, but (supposed to > be) cheap peak-load power. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 11:36:21 -0400 (EDT) From: henry butt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Heat Storage Reservoir Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all A while back, I read that a certain German automaker ( or an after market firm ) offered a heat storage system for faster engine warm up in sub-zero temperature conditions by utilizing a few extra gallons of heated engine coolant stored in a Thermos-like insulated tank. The hot coolant is circulated thru the engine block when the car is restarted after resting for hours ( e.g. going home after the workday ). Any one has information on this ? Henry (from the Great White North) ______________________________________________________________________ Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 15:07:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E46 M3 RSM part number Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey all, I settled on the E46 M3 RSMs for my E36, and I'm going to order a set of the reinforcement plates from either Rogue or M3 Motorwerks. I just wanted to verify the E46 M3 RSM part number, to be sure I got the right ones: 33 52 6 754 096. I think Brett would most likely be the one to have this on quick reference, but anyone has it, lemme know if that's correct. Thanks, Brian '93 325 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price. http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 16:05:34 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Torchin' That Sucker! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Groups, the caliper bracket - to - strut bolts on our '91 325iA are stuck - they appear to have been severely overtightened by someone prior to our ownership. On the passenger side, I used my patented put-the-floor-jack-under-the-breaker-bar-handle trick. But on the driver's side, the strut is in the way and that method won't work. I don't own impact tools. I have it on good authority (hi Mr. 1st) that the bolt will come right out if I simply heat it up real good with a torch. Well, I do just happen to have a propane torch, whadaya know? But here is what I was thinking (which, of course, is always dangerous): Should I heat up the bolts? Or should I heat up the casting into which they are stuck? Since heat causes metal to expand (did I get that right Gary?), won't heating the bolt make it more stuck? Whereas, if I heat up the steering knuckle-strut AROUND the bolts, the bolt holes will get larger? Or does the heat do something else besides expanding some metal? Of course, I'm about to go out in a few hours to fire up the torch, and most of you won't read this until I have already stumbled on the correct answer. But if you happen to see this before, oh, say noon on Sunday, please do shoot me an e-mail direct at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] . I get the UUC and E30 messages in Digest form, so a reply to the list will not get to me until the required number of messages stacks up. TIA for any advice here, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 19:31:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Torchin' That Sucker! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Heat the bolt. I know it does not seem logical, but it works. What it does is makes the bolt expand and kind of break its bondage to the casting. Sometimes you can back it out hot, sometimes works better if you let it cool. Actually if it does not come out hot, let it cool down some and then shoot some penetrating oil on it, the residual heat will some times pull it into the threads as it finishes cooling. If you have to get that bolt good and hot to get it loose, better replace it with a proper part. The heat could effect the strength, also if it was over torqued, it may already be weakened. David in Richmond, VA -----Original Message----- From: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: May 15, 2004 7:05 PM To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E30 Yahoo Group <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [UUC] Torchin' That Sucker! Groups, the caliper bracket - to - strut bolts on our '91 325iA are stuck - they appear to have been severely overtightened by someone prior to our ownership. On the passenger side, I used my patented put-the-floor-jack-under-the-breaker-bar-handle trick. But on the driver's side, the strut is in the way and that method won't work. I don't own impact tools. I have it on good authority (hi Mr. 1st) that the bolt will come right out if I simply heat it up real good with a torch. Well, I do just happen to have a propane torch, whadaya know? But here is what I was thinking (which, of course, is always dangerous): Should I heat up the bolts? Or should I heat up the casting into which they are stuck? Since heat causes metal to expand (did I get that right Gary?), won't heating the bolt make it more stuck? Whereas, if I heat up the steering knuckle-strut AROUND the bolts, the bolt holes will get larger? Or does the heat do something else besides expanding some metal? Of course, I'm about to go out in a few hours to fire up the torch, and most of you won't read this until I have already stumbled on the correct answer. But if you happen to see this before, oh, say noon on Sunday, please do shoot me an e-mail direct at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] . I get the UUC and E30 messages in Digest form, so a reply to the list will not get to me until the required number of messages stacks up. TIA for any advice here, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 18:45:26 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Compression test Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, I did a compression test on my 95 M3 (95 K miles) today and ended up with the following: Cyl PSI === === 1 205 2 205 3 204 4 203 5 200 6 211 Should I be concerned about the fact that cyl 6 is so much higher than the others? The other thing that was sort of odd was that all cylinders took about 10 revolutions before the pressure stopped increasing, the values above are peak, they were all in the 180 psi range after 4 revolutions. Thanks Jamie Howton ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 17:41:57 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Airbag Surprise! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> And I've gotta tell y'all, the words "airbag" and "surprise" are not two words you want to see together. I believe I have already documented the fact that, after replacing my turn signal flasher relay, I managed to cross-thread the fasteners that hold the airbag/horn button assembly in my '90 325i. The Torx head screws are too close to get a conventional drill in there to drill a hole for a screw extractor. So I decided to sacrifice the steering wheel cover. My pocket knife made quick work of that! Then I hacksawed the one stuck screw that was half-holding the airbag unit in place. Now I'm airbag free. And, of course, horn button free as well. No problem there, if I need the horn, I'll just roll down the window and yell. "Hey, jerk! Yeah you! I'm honkin' at ya!" Now a bit of history is in order. I bought this car in 1996 from at least the 3rd owner. One fender hads been previously replaced, and the hood and bumper cover both had either been replaced or at least repainted. Since the frame was straight, I didn't worry about it. So now here I am holding my number 3211599271 air bag, or maybe it is a BC-66 60 9792 airbag, or perhaps a 3606419603 airbag. I really don't know what it is, since it has all these numbers on it and none of them looks like a conventional BMW part number to me. But here's the good part. It is marked "E34". THAT I understand, this thing did not start its life in my E30. Are the two compatible? How would I know? At this point I decided to look into that SRS light that doesn't light, and the reason is immediately obvious. There is NO light! Bulb and bulb holder are just gone. So here is my conclusion. After the P.O.'s accident, someone stuck an E34 airbag in to fill the hole in the steering wheel. It was not compatible with the E30 airbag circuits, triggered the SRS light, and the light would not re-set. So rather than fix it right, the unscrupulous repair monkey yanked out the SRS bulb and tossed it. Then they gave the car back to the owner, telling them it was as good as new! I'm glad I never had to find out if the airbag really works or not! Any competing theories? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(12 messages) **********
