The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 84 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: 93 525 5-speed--Fun to drive?? Re: <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? E36 Electrical Re: E36 Electrical <E36> M3 Shark Injector Re: belt squeal......replaced Re: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Fuel Pump for WHAT ?? Re: Steering Column Squeak Re: Steering Column Squeak FS: E30 Kosei K1 Racing wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires urgent- E34 instrument cluster capacitor repair
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 09:39:16 -0500 From: Steve Nash <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 93 525 5-speed--Fun to drive?? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yes, it is. My fun car is an '89 M3 and I also have a '95 525i 5sp. I love to drive the 525i and it is 100% stock. New shocks/springs this winter should make it even better. -Steve Michael Holbrook wrote: > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Thinking of a 93 525 with a 5 speed manual trans. Stock. Is this > remotely fun to drive. Previous E34 was a 530 with 5speed auto > trans. I chipped that and a few other things and it was great. If > the 525 with manual trans was as quick, I might buy it. I'd like to > hear from some owners of these cars however. Anyone? > > Reply off list if you wish: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Thanks, > > Mike Holbrook [EMAIL PROTECTED] > 83 Panzer 300TD > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 09:54:15 -0500 From: "RAGS 535" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Malcolm; The standard shocks for the e28 M5 are actually Bilsein HDs,NOT the boge used for e28 cars...much too soft.Replace lower control arm bushings with shaved 7 series ones or equivelent aftermarkets available,as well as new uppers,AND you will need new frame bushings,front "A" arm bushings,and new bushings for the swaybars,or replace those with newer adjustable sways from RD or elsewhere.All this is done every 10 years or about 100k,and is then O.K. for another 10 years,unless you track the car.Now it's new or a bit better.You may want to consider replacing the rear susupension with Bilstein HDs and a kit to use them,as many have,as well. I'm a BMWCCA driver's school instructor,as well as a BMW specialist 25 years,especially on modifying 5 and 6 series cars for street/track use.My first e28 '85 535i ran down e28 M5's at Watkins Glen,Lime Rock,and down here(Fla.) at Sebring,stock engined except for specialty chip,using my own gearing and suspension changes. Currently run an '86 535i Cartech Turbo,my 5th e28 car. Bob G./rags535 BMWCCA#5217 M535SIG#143 >From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: [UUC] <E28> What suspension/steering pieces to replace? >Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 09:21:41 -0600 >MIME-Version: 1.0 >Received: from mc12-f26.hotmail.com ([65.54.167.162]) by >mc12-s9.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.6713); Wed, 7 Jan 2004 >07:33:38 -0800 >Received: from host.bardicsolutions.net ([208.186.130.196]) by >mc12-f26.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.6713); Wed, 7 Jan 2004 >07:33:33 -0800 >Received: from uucdigest.com (host.bardicsolutions.net [127.0.0.1])by >host.bardicsolutions.net (8.12.8/8.12.8) with SMTP id i07IM4jn022388;Wed, 7 >Jan 2004 10:22:04 -0800 >Received: from houexir001.halliburton.com (houexir002.halliburton.com >[64.154.26.179])by host.bardicsolutions.net (8.12.8/8.12.8) with ESMTP id >i07ILNjn022348for <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Wed, 7 Jan 2004 10:21:55 >-0800 >Received: from houcoll300.corp.kbr.com (Not Verified[34.64.0.142]) by >houexir001.halliburton.com with NetIQ MailMarshal (v5.5.5.6)id ><BA001ce083>; Wed, 07 Jan 2004 09:23:54 -0600 >Received: from houexch300.corp.kbr.com ([34.64.0.160]) by >houcoll300.corp.kbr.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.6713); Wed, 7 Jan >2004 09:21:42 -0600 >X-Message-Info: NDMZeIBu+soD+00CmSqlotq2gMu/EHP4rIZYNJbyUUc= >X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft Exchange V6.0.6487.1 >content-class: urn:content-classes:message >Message-ID: ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >X-MS-Has-Attach: X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: Thread-Topic: <E28> What >suspension/steering pieces to replace? >Thread-Index: AcPVMfOSDmfI+HY7Q+KTm80YZ5C40Q== >X-OriginalArrivalTime: 07 Jan 2004 15:21:42.0304 (UTC) >FILETIME=[F42A6A00:01C3D531] >X-Spam-Flag: NO >X-Spam-Flag: NO >X-Scanned-By: MIMEDefang 2.38 >X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by >host.bardicsolutions.net id i07ILtjn022353 >Precedence: bulk >Return-Path: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >For the New Year, I want to work on getting the M5 back into shape (just >put on a new brake bomb and pressure switches - no more ATF dripping on >to the garage floor!) and the suspension is next on my list. It just >feels "loose" all over and I'm sure after 16 years and 113k there are >parts galore to replace. It has the stock springs and SLS (Boge struts >up front have about 20k on them). The steering is getting wobbly, so I >know it needs something there (thrust arm bushings?). What parts in the >rear should I replace? I'm not track-prepping it; just trying to get it >back to its factory feel. > >Thanks >Malcolm >'88 M5 >'98 328i > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com _________________________________________________________________ Check your PC for viruses with the FREE McAfee online computer scan. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:02:19 -0500 From: "DUNLAP, LARRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 Electrical Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 1993 318is, stopped at a friends house last night, came back out and started the car. Turned the headlights on -but no dash lights. Everything works, just no illumination. Get out, check the fuses, everything looks fine. Notice that I have no right side marker lights. Brakes work, turn signals work, just no dash lights and no right side markers... this morning try swapping bulbs around to make sure they're not blown, bulbs are fine... any ideas? Do these share a common ground somewhere? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:06:21 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Electrical Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 11:01:44 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E36> M3 Shark Injector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'm not sure what Eurosport did to come by their numbers, but > the numbers seem a little suspect. On it's face 34 hp /40 > ft-lb sounds way optimistic for a chip even though they > appear to be quoting the increase where it is greatest rather > than peak-to-peak increase. They also seem to be comparing a > measured hp to the factory rating rather than tested values > before and after which is apples and oranges. Why?? Comparing to factory ratings seems reasonable to me as that would be a fair representation of the power most of the respective motors would make. Potentially, some make more and some make less (or in the case of Ford, they all make less... :-) But, it doesn't have to be apples to oranges (see below). Also, what is wrong with stating the peak gains at any particular RPM? It does give you some idea what sort of gains they were able to accomplish. I find having a complete dyno chart so I can see the complete story of the gains all along the curve but if I have to have only two readings (max gains at any one particular RPM and gain at peak), that is what I would want. > As the factory > ratings are at the crank I presume they must be applying some > correction factor to a measured rear-wheel dyno number which > is one potential source of optimism. Why is that considered optimistic? If they apply a reasonable correction factor (which I think Jim and Josh could probably determine as they have likely dynoed more cars than any of us here individually), I would say that is a reasonable method of comparing before and after, apples to apples.... > Although it's possible > I doubt they've actually tested all of these engines on an > engine dyno - it would be pretty coincidental if the 93-95 > 325i they tested happened to put out exactly the > factory-rated horsepower which I happen to know is 189 since > I own a 94 325ic. If they are in fact using the factory > rating as a "before" number, if the engine is underrated from > the factory it will inflate the app! > arent benefit of the chip. Why would it? If they found that there chip made X amount of horsepower and Y amount of torque at any given RPM based on a before and after dyno run on there test vehicle, then they corrected those numbers for drive train loss and adjusted them (both before and after) to a normalized factory HP/Torque rating since that is what many people in the automotive society associate with, I think that is more than reasonable. Clearly they haven't tested all these motors on an engine dyno...if that was the case, no one would pay what it would require for the programming. Calculating drive train loss and applying there results to factory results is easy though and a fair way of presenting there results. > Example: My aforementioned 325ic is rated at 189hp. Unless > I pull the engine and test it on an engine dyno I don't know > how close to reality that number is. Assuming about a 15% > drivetrain loss if I test the car on a rear-wheel dyno I'd > expect a measured rwhp of 160.65. Now suppose I shark it and > see 180 rwhp on the dyno. I've gained ~20 rwhp and applying > the same 15% loss ~212 crank hp. Their chart would show a > gain of 23 hp (pretty close to what they actually show, 211 > and 22). This is legit because I tested before and after. > Now suppose I *didn't* test before, I just assumed 189 was > accurate. If the engine is underrated at all (manufacturers > tend to rate conservatively - just ask Ford about the 96 > Cobra which didn't make the advertised power) the chip > appears to have given a greater gain than actual. Suppose > the engine was really making 200 crank hp before the shark - > I've only gained 12 hp, not 23. The chip doesn't look quite > as impressive. The same items you criticize above (comparing apples to oranges) is what you are doing here. You are comparing your results against a normalized factory result that doesn't necessarily have any relationship to your results. I think it is safe to say that Eurosport/Conforti probably normalized there gains to typical factory results but only after comparing the gains they established before and after on their sample(s). This seems very reasonable to me as 100 motors will have different results right out of the factory. Add 100k miles in different conditions and maintenance all over the world and you will have even more dramatic differences. If you have a car that makes 10% less than factory average, all it means is that you will make your gains starting with a lower baseline. So, if they claim they made 8% more hp at 3,500 rpms (say factory was 150hp and they show 162hp after their programming) and your before dyno results were 135hp before reprogramming (as opposed to the factory 150hp), I would suspect your gains would be about ~146hp. Yes, still below the factory results but still 8% better than they were before reprogramming. You wouldn't say "gee, my car made 150hp before programming and now it makes 146hp...those guys ripped me off". I am also not stupid enough to think that all the gains on all motors will be 8% in my example...some may be more, some may be less. > The only test I'd trust as reliable is if I see a dyno chart > with back-to-back before and after curves. Even better, > average 3 runs before and 3 after. The "installation" of the > shark injector is trivial - no reason they couldn't do this. So you want to see their raw data? I would bet it corroborates the results that they normalize to factory ratings. Unless you are calling Jim and Josh liars, then that is a whole other can of worms.... I don't think you are. But, I happen to think if Jim Conforti can figure out how to decode the Bosch programming and make appropriate changes to it, that he can calculate and present his gains appropriately. If you want to consider it "marketing" that they present their gains against factory results at the crank, so be it. But, how many times do people who own a '94 325ic (in your example) tell other people that there car makes ~160 rwhp as opposed to 189 hp? Presenting there results based on a factory result is likely the easiest and most clear message to communicate to most of their customers. If they gave everyone their raw data, they would probably end up having to explain variance from factory results, drive train losses, etc. YMMV. I have no financial interest or otherwise in Conforti/Eurosport/Turner, etc. Also, I am not trying to be inflammatory in any way, I am just trying to further this discussion. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 10:29:37 -0600 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: belt squeal......replaced Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So last night I was bored and went ahead and replaced the belt that I was planning on doing this weekend. When I took off the old belt I was worried because it seemed brand new, no cracks or glazing. All the bearing seems fine since everything was very tight. The tensioner was the exception since it had a little play in it. Should it be just as solid as everything else? I could move it maybe an 1/8 inch total with my hands whereas everything else would not budge at all. After replacing the belt the squeel seems to have disappeard. I though I heard it a little but I got sick of driving around with the window open since it is -2 degrees outside. Should I replace the tensioner with that little bit of play? What is normal play on the tensionor? I will know for sure today if the squeel is gone assuming the sun is out and it is warm. Also the Bently says you dont have to remove the AC belt but I dont see how that is possible. Is this another Bently flaw or do the German eng! ineers know how to pass matter through matter ;) Thanks for the replies too. '96 328i squeal free...hopefully ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 13:14:29 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 Central Locking and Door Lock Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rich wrote: > a tale of door lock woe easy answer - turn it into a track car. next question please. :-P Ben always glad to help... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 17:35:37 -0800 (PST) From: "Patrick Green" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E34 M50 not getting warm in cold weather Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have an E36 M50 and yes its the thermostat, I've got the same disease right now. Being that its -10 in MI right now, I really need to fix that thing. Pat Green On 7 Jan 2004 18:25:33 -0000, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > This is my first winter with my M50 E34 touring ('94). > With the temps below 20F the temp gauge is not reaching > the midpoint - it's generally settling in 1 division > below that (1/4 tank?). > > Should this car be warming up better than that? Do I > need to put a thermostat on my shopping list? > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home > of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ----------------------------------------------------- This message is intended only for the addressee. Please notify the sender by email if you are not the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you many not copy, disclose, or distribute this message or its contents to any other person and any such actions may be unlawful. Acordia reserves the right to monitor and review the content of all messages sent to or received from this email address. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 14:00:47 -0800 From: "BMWBits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "2002digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E21 Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E9coupes BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Senior Six Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Sixer coupe Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Uucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fuel Pump for WHAT ?? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Over Xmas Santa kindly delivered to my door a small box holding a 'kit' of brand-new original BMW parts -obviously a factory 'replacement kit' of some kind that replaced an in-tank fuel pump . OK , so BMW has used in-tank 'pusher-pumps' since the development of fuel injection -but this box is identified as being applicable to "BMW 71-74"..and that's all .Well, the only BMW I know of that vintage that had FI was the 2002 tii . I cant get back that far on my ETK ...compootr illiterate !!...so I need help. Does anyone know what these two parts fit? ...16 12 1 150 481 and 482 . The '482' is obviously a fuel-level gage that fits thru a hole in the top of the '481'-which has the immersed pump and an L-shaped fuel pickup and filter on the bottom. There's also a bunch of hoses (with Vxxxxxxx part numbers rubberstamped onto them -along with a 1978 manufacturing date ), fuel-line and a ton of clamps . Could they be for early 320/323is ? Or euro 3.0csi ? Or 1975-6 US spec 3.0si (4-doors ) ??Early 6-series? Dontcha LOVE a good mystery ?? (maybe the Butler did it ??) ... ALL help gratefully received ... Bill Proud Seattle Summers , Tennessee Winters . Long Commute between ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 06:56:09 -0500 From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Steering Column Squeak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >1995 325 Ti Club Sport. I checked the power steering fluid - it is okay. >The squeak is definitely coming from the column from around the area >that the cluster of levers are (wiper, turn signal, ignition). It only >squeaks >when turning the wheel all the way to the right or left, and then at what I >perceive to be the same spot when straighten the wheel back to center. Might need a new slip ring in the steering column. Dave Meyer 99 328is 04 FLHRI Stafford VA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 07:29:32 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Steering Column Squeak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Excellent - that make two votes for slip ring. Any one know the part number? Or procedure, if not in the Bentley. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 06:01:59 -0700 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW E30 3 Series" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW E30 3 Series Club" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS: E30 Kosei K1 Racing wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Keywords: BMW, Business, E30 Track wheels & tires for four-lug E30 318/325 84-91. Kosei K1 Racing 7x15 ET27, mounted with Michelin Pilot Sort Cup 225/50-15. Includes matching lug bolts and aluminum centering rings. Used one season, about 8 track days and 5 autocrosses, still several track days left in the tires. $750/set plus shipping from 80014. See photo in use at http://sutcars.home.comcast.net/pics/20031226-2CR-fr2.JPG more pics upon request. Respond via private email please! -- Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> '88 E28 535iS http://m535i.org #154 IHR FUNF '93 T4 EV MV Weekender BELUGA BMWCCA #169277 Rocky Mountain Chapter Secretary ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 09:54:32 -0500 From: "Beaudette, Roland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Uuc (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: urgent- E34 instrument cluster capacitor repair Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got the cluster out of the car to replace the capacitors (and get back continuous function of the gages). With the help of the E34.net write-up, I've identified two capacitors: 1000 mF and 220 mF. The board is an 89 production date. There are two additional capacitors, about 2/3 the size of the 220 mF. The values of these two (most likely identical) capacitors is not apparent to my electrician and I. Can anyone offer any insight as to the values? Cheers, Roland ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
