The BMW UUC Digest Volume 1 : Issue 87 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: e30 Steering rack won't come out!!! Re: e30 Steering rack won't come out!!! Re: e30 Steering rack won't come out!!! Re: MIG Welder FS: '99 M3 / M Coupe & Roadster Wheel and Airbag E34 Touring-Velcro Straps '02 M3 Coupe For Sale Citibank fraud = fraud Re: Citibank fraud = fraud Re: Citibank fraud = fraud Ofest 2004 caravaning? spark plug change -- success, but wanted to fill you in on something question about E46 brake bleed using Griott's Garage's gadget
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 01:13:47 -0500 From: "Mitchell Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: e30 Steering rack won't come out!!! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A couple options that I'm aware of: 1) Raise the engine a few inches so the rack will clear the oil pan. 2) Bend down the lower two rack mounting tabs. Mitch > Next issue: Bentley makes it sound pretty straightforward to get my ZF rack out of my car. I've undone the high and low pressure line, taken the u-joint off of the splined end and unbolted it from the subframe but I can't get it out! The photo in Bentley looks different than mine. It would appear in the book as though the mounting tabs on the sub frame are of different length and mine appear to be the same length and I can't sneak it past the oil pan which sits in front of it. Can anyone help me out here? Can I unbolt the subframe to get it past? Don't know if I want to get into that but Bentley is usually really good but they make it sound like once the bolts are out of the subframe it just comes out. Ugh.... > > Dave '84 eta > tie-rods-a-danglin' ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 13:22:32 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) Subject: Re: e30 Steering rack won't come out!!! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From Mitchell Morrison > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >A couple options that I'm aware of: >1) Raise the engine a few inches so the rack will clear the oil pan. >2) Bend down the lower two rack mounting tabs. > >Mitch > >> Next issue: Bentley makes it sound pretty straightforward to get my ZF >rack out of my car. I've undone the high and low pressure line, taken the >u-joint off of the splined end and unbolted it from the subframe but I can't >get it out! The photo in Bentley looks different than mine. It would >appear in the book as though the mounting tabs on the sub frame are of >different length and mine appear to be the same length and I can't sneak it >past the oil pan which sits in front of it. Can anyone help me out here? >Can I unbolt the subframe to get it past? Don't know if I want to get into >that but Bentley is usually really good but they make it sound like once the >bolts are out of the subframe it just comes out. Ugh.... >> >> Dave '84 eta >> tie-rods-a-danglin' > > I bent the tabs when I did mine. You don't have to bend them much and there is a top set of tabs that the rack bolts to as well, so I wouldn't be too concerned about weakening the tabs (unless you change racks often on this car). There is a third option. Drop the oil pan. It is a good time to replace that gasket which is probably leaking by now. Since this is an 84, I would consider replacing the oil pump while you are in there. My 87 started to loose the pump (low volume and pressure, but not enough to trip the light) and cost me my cam shaft and rocker arms. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 09:51:50 -0500 From: "Langsten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: e30 Steering rack won't come out!!! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave, Loosen your engine mounts on the lower end at the subframe, raise engine either from above with the eyelet hook just in front of the valve cover, or if you are working on the ground, jack the engine up from below with a solid block of wood against the oilpan to spread the load. I don't advise bending the tabs for the steering rack , you don't want to weaken a part of the car that is critical to it's safe operation. Mario L. www.VSR1.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2004 12:55 AM Subject: [UUC] e30 Steering rack won't come out!!! > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Thanks to all for your responses on the bearing control arm bushing question. > > Next issue: Bentley makes it sound pretty straightforward to get my ZF rack out of my car. I've undone the high and low pressure line, taken the u-joint off of the splined end and unbolted it from the subframe but I can't get it out! The photo in Bentley looks different than mine. It would appear in the book as though the mounting tabs on the sub frame are of different length and mine appear to be the same length and I can't sneak it past the oil pan which sits in front of it. Can anyone help me out here? Can I unbolt the subframe to get it past? Don't know if I want to get into that but Bentley is usually really good but they make it sound like once the bolts are out of the subframe it just comes out. Ugh.... > > Dave '84 eta > tie-rods-a-danglin' > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 14:22:01 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: MIG Welder Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Neil, I bought a cheapie MIG from Harbor Freight (no gas capability) that lasted about 6 months before it died. I learned the basics from it, but it had severe limitations, not to mention horrible reliability. I just upgraded to the Lowe's sold Lincoln Pro-MIG 135, 120V. It is very nice and comes with all the gas accessories, except the bottle. It was ~$400. The bottle was ~$100 to buy, with gas. Overall, I found two things that really improved my welding: 1) welding with gas (no flux core wire) - far cleaner, and much easier to make a clean weld without burning through than the flux core wire 2) auto-darkening helmet - you can actually see what you're doing, and it basically frees up a hand. Also, the nicer welders keep the wire grounded until the trigger is pulled, versus keeping them hot. This is a nice feature. Also, look for a built in gas solenoid (to turn the gas on and off), or else you'll need to purchase one with the bottle and make a couple of connections. By the way, I've never needed more current or duty cycle than the 120V, 135A models provides. I've already welded my heat shields, muffler and built some wire shelves. Can't live without it now! A grinder and cut-off tool are essential accessories. (By the way, most of the local hardware stores carry a nice array of metal stock for practicing.) -Colin '98 M3 '03 Z06 '95 Subie beater +++++++ Neil wrote: I'm thinking about buying a small wire-fed MIG welder to do those inevitable home garage jobs, such as welding up brackets or reinforcements. .... Anyone have useful do's, don'ts, or D'ohs! to offer? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 14:33:23 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: FS: '99 M3 / M Coupe & Roadster Wheel and Airbag Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm selling the steering wheel and airbag from the '99 M3 or M Coupe/M Roadster. It's the black leather 3-spoke wheel, and is in excellent condition (no wear or tears, no discoloration). I used this wheel/airbag in my '95 M3 for the past couple of years, but just installed a Momo wheel in it's place. It will fit any E36 -- 325/328/M3 or Z3. It is all plug and play. If you want any further information, please e-mail me. The parts sell for well over $100 from the dealer, I paid $650 for the set-up (used). Best reasonable offer takes it. -peter*g ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 17:42:46 -0600 From: "A. Wesley Parker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 Touring-Velcro Straps Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I put three road flares in the space. Wes Parker ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 18:23:29 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: '02 M3 Coupe For Sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, A neighbor is getting ready to sell his '02 M3 and asked if I could help. He's in his 50s and I know that he has not abused this car. If anyone is interested in buying it, please reply to me privately and I'll get you in touch with him. 2001 BMW [E46] M3 COUPE VIN: WBSBL93451JR11447 BUILD DATE: 04/01 DELIVERY DATE: 05/22/2001 � 6-speed manual transmission � Carbon Black Metallic Paint Over Black Nappa Full Leather Interior � 16,200 original miles � One-owner, non-smoker � Location: Portland, Oregon � Includes 4 alloy wheels with V-rated snow (not M+S) tires; alloys are E46 M3-look with correct front/rear offset; alloys and snow tires sized per BMW spec; used one winter, less than 1000 miles (PLUS ORIGINAL WHEELS) � All scheduled service by BMW dealer; flawless mechanically (RASMUSSEN BMW IN PORTLAND) � No track time, never raced or abused; no collisions (HAS HAD SOME PAINT WORK DUE TO CONTACT WITH NEIGHBORS ROCK WALL) � Hand-washed and waxed; no scuffs or curb rash; immaculate interior � Enclosed/covered garaged 24/7 when not being driven, no sunburn � Front license plate bracket not installed; clean look, no holes; parts included � BMW 3 Year/36,000 Mile Full Maintenance Program through May 2004 � BMW 4 Year/50,000 Mile Warranty (Bumper to Bumper) through May 2005 � BMW 4 Year/50,000 Mile Roadside Assistance through May 2005 � BMW Extended 6 Year/100,000 Mile Drivetrain Warranty through May 2007 � BMW Limited 6 Year Rust Perforation Warranty through May 2007 � Paid $56,029 new (no additional dealer mark-up or packs) � Sell $44,250 Factory-Installed Options Carbon Black Metallic Paint Black Leather Cold Weather Package Luxury Package Rear Spoiler Deletion Adjustable Seatback Width and Lumbar Support Xenon Headlamps AM/FM CD Player (in-dash) Harmon-Kardon Sound System Dealer-Installed Optional BMW Equipment Trunk-mounted 6-disk CD changer Home-Link garage door opener Alarm system Key-lock antitheft lug bolts Carpeted floor mats Folding windshield sun shade John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S (UUC SS & Dinan Stage 3 Suspension Coming) '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 22:59:25 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "bubbas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Citibank fraud = fraud Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just a quick wake up note. An email is going around warning of potential fraud problems with your Citibank account. It wants you to go to a web site and enter your Citibank login information. DON'T DO IT. It's a scam. Visible in both the reply address with the email, and the fact that the URL contains more than it should. That is, instead of citibank.com, it's Citibank@<dns>.com Just a heads up, 'cause I gott protect my customers bank accounts, so they can spend money with me..... ;-) Brett Anderson KMS ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:10:12 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Citibank fraud = fraud Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Its a good rule to never give out credit card or bank info (or any other info) to anyone who sends you an email or calls you on the phone. Gary Derian > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Just a quick wake up note. > > An email is going around warning of potential fraud problems with your > Citibank account. > > It wants you to go to a web site and enter your Citibank login information. > > DON'T DO IT. > > It's a scam. Visible in both the reply address with the email, and the fact > that the URL contains more than it should. That is, instead of > citibank.com, it's Citibank@<dns>.com > > Just a heads up, 'cause I gott protect my customers bank accounts, so they > can spend money with me..... ;-) > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:17:59 -0500 (EST) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Citibank fraud = fraud Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004, Brett Anderson wrote: > An email is going around warning of potential fraud problems with your > Citibank account. > > It wants you to go to a web site and enter your Citibank login information. > > DON'T DO IT. > > It's a scam. There is a huge amount of fraud like this going on right now. In the biddness (network security bidness, that is), we call this sort of thing phishing. Its been around forever, but its been ramping up for a year or more, to the point that today, I get several of these a day. In general, no legitimate business will ever ask you for this sort of information. Requests like these are almost always a scam. If you think something like this might be legit, call the business first, before you click any links. joel ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:50:11 -0500 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: ///uucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Ofest 2004 caravaning? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Once again I will host a message board for those planning on caravaning to Ofest 2004. I'm thinking about driving from Washington DC. I drove to every one as long as I've been a member, I hate to break the tradition. But my sanity my kick in and take Jet Blue instead. http://www.happytogether.com/unofficialofest -- ...steven TechFest East http://www.nccbmwcca.org/techfesteast 2003 Mini Cooper S 1996 BMW 328ti ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 22:16:14 -0800 From: "Ziv Gillat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: spark plug change -- success, but wanted to fill you in on something Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> First of all, let me just say how cool of a feeling it was to start the car up, after changing the spark plugs, and hear the engine run smoothly. It was nerve wrecking. Before this, the only thing I did to the bimmer (on my own) was oil changes and other very minor work. The one thing I wanted to mention though, that the stock plugs (NGK) look identical to the Bosche Platinum 4+ plugs. They also have 4 prongs. Some of your suggested that I use the stock plugs, and not the Platinum 4+, for several reasons that made a lot of sense (and I listened and re-ordered the plugs). The NGK plugs are platinum as well, and really, just like identical to the Bosche. Thanks --- Ziv. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2004 22:28:33 -0800 From: "Ziv Gillat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: question about E46 brake bleed using Griott's Garage's gadget Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, Since Griott's Garage has such a great reputation, I decided to try their brake fluid bleeder gadget. It's a well made tank, with a suction mechanism, paired with a fresh-fluid bottle. You first suck out as much old fluid from the master cylinder, and then you tip over the fresh bottle of fluid onto the master cylinder. Then, you attempt to start bleeding, and instead of forcing pressure through the master cylinder, you suck pressure out of the bleeder valve, at each wheel. The gadget works. But I think that because the bleeder valve at each wheel wasn't sealed perfectly against the caliper, while open, all the while that the fluid was getting sucked out of the bleeder valve, I saw bubbles. The bubbles were much larger then the standard tiny air bubbles you would see in the fluid if you were to do this normally. By the way, as you suck out the fluid from the bleeder valve, new fluid is replenished at the master cylinder, automatically, from the bottle that is tipped over (but it never overflows, well designed) So the question is -- has anyone used this before with more success? Should I just do it using the old-fashioned way of forcing pressure through the master cylinder? After a test drive, the brakes DID feel a lot more responsive and less squishy :-) ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
