The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 61 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Alutec or ASA wheels Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Re: Dyno Speeds Re: Dyno Speeds Re: Dyno Speeds Re: <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels E34 540i issues Re: E34 540i issues <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Re: New Member BMW CCA
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 22:39:38 -0600 From: "M Kittock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Alutec or ASA wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks, Christian. I have taken a peek at ebay. My problem is balancing $$ and my need for the car to look good - and I like big wheels (well, within reason). I don't care too much for OEM wheel styles. Although I will eventually paint the wheels black - I like the racy (as in race car...8)looking black wheel look. So who knows. My street 17" wheels are black already. Anyway, I'm having a difficult time deciding and my question has brought a lot of ideas and info forward. Mark > [Original Message] > From: Christian Els <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 3/1/2004 6:02:41 PM > Subject: Re: [UUC] Alutec or ASA wheels > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > -----Original Message----- > > >But I'm getting another car in a couple years for DE events, and then this > new 16" set >of wheels will be put into service as winter wheels. > > > What about another set of OE wheels? Lot's of folks have upgraded to > something different and these go for short cash on eBay, etc. They are at > least of known quality, and for DE's you aren't going wheel to wheel for the > lead. > > For that matter, 15" wheels are lighter, cheaper and should fit your 328i. > 15" tires are cheaper too... > > $0.02 > > > Christian Els > Columbia, MO > '94 325i, 16's for the street 15's on the track... > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 20:52:06 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary, We had 40 psi in the rear wheels and virtually no load so we weren't way over that speed and only for short bursts (5 secs. max times 6 runs). The dyno guys are pros (developing performance computers for 911 turbos and the owner has a race-prepped M3) so I don't think there was much risk except to my heart rate when they were at top speed. John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 7:27 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Tire speed capacity depends on load, inflation and camber. 220 mph is > definitely beyond the S-03. I believe they have a Y rating for 187 mph or > so, but that is with high inflation (about 44 psi) and relatively light > load. > > Gary Derian > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > Chet, > > > > I see your point about the tires , but to complete a dyno run I would > think > > you need to run up to the red line. In 6th gear at 6500RPM they hit > 220mph. > > Believe me, I was like an expectant father, I has to leave the waiting > room. > > What is the max speed for S-03 tires anyway? I may need to hold my speed > > down at driver's school this month. :) > > > > John Kjos > > '99 540i/6: Dinan S > > '01 525iTa: Stock > > Portland, OR > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 00:01:11 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett's point was that the dyno operator didn't need to run the car up to that sort of speed to get a good reading. there is no difference in the power that the engine makes in 3rd gear thru the rev range as compared to 6th. running it in 6th just seems silly. Ben John Kjos wrote: > We had 40 psi in the rear wheels and virtually no load so we weren't way > over that speed and only for short bursts (5 secs. max times 6 runs). The > dyno guys are pros (developing performance computers for 911 turbos and the > owner has a race-prepped M3) so I don't think there was much risk except to > my heart rate when they were at top speed. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:31:44 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Actually, that's not my point. My point is that there IS a difference in the power the car makes between 3rd gear and 6th. We use 4th gear for all 6spd cars. Above about 120mph (varies depending on model), the car needs more torque than power to push it through the air. The DME has a vehicle speed input. When it sees high speed, it changes the timing, reducing HP, to increase (actually to simply maintain) torque, to get you through the air. Therefore, John does not have accurate HP or Torque figures on his car. He does have bragging rights for the speed, but that's about it. Like I said, he needs to find a shop that knows what they're doing. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > > Brett's point was that the dyno operator didn't need > to run the car up to that sort of speed to get a good > reading. there is no difference in the power that > the engine makes in 3rd gear thru the rev range > as compared to 6th. running it in 6th just seems > silly. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:01:17 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett Anderson wrote: > Actually, that's not my point. > > My point is that there IS a difference in the power > the car makes between 3rd gear and 6th. as you noted this is an artificially imposed difference rather than being something which would exist if there wasn't the speed-linked tuning in the DME, right ? without electronics the dumb guy part of my brain says that things are the same regardless of the gear/speed, right ? > We use 4th gear for all 6spd cars. I was recalling posts about M coupe dyno runs which I'd suspect are best done in 3rd of the 5 gears but I may be wrong. interesting stuff tho about the torque/hp/speed stuff, hadn't heard that before... Ben likes learning new stuff... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 23:00:46 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E38> Trans Fluid Change Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I was actually wondering about this whole "lifetime fluid" thing anyway. > How good are the filters in these auto trannies? FWIW, I'm changing oil in my wife's slush box '98 328i annually (about 20-25K miles). The two times that I had done it so far, both the pan surfaces and the magnet were covered in fine metallic dust. It's is hard to judge the condition of the filter since on GM 270 trannies it is completely enclosed in plastic safe for in/outlet holes. The oil always comes out nice and clean and there is no perceptible change in shift-quality before/after services. Given the nominal $35 cost of new gaskets/filter/bolts + oil, that's how I want to keep it for as long as we own that car. > If I remember correctly, auto trans have several clutches in them along > with planetary gears & the torque converter. Now these clutches should > wear out & deposit friction material into the fluid which then > (presumably) goes through the filter. However, I would still think this > would leave a ton of gunk behind, especially on cars that spend a lot > of time in hot climates in heavy traffic (i.e. no cooling airflow). At the recent CCA Do It Yourself event, we had two owners doing tranny service on E38 slushboxes. Both had over 70K miles (don't remember exactly) on lifetime fluids. New fluid was gold in cover. The fluid that had drained out was ugly black. Draw your own conclusions. > How much crap can the filter take before it's so clogged with crap that > there's either crap blow-by or starvation of oil, cavitation of the > pump, etc? Hard to say. > It seems that making the transmission to be serviced, say every 30k or > so, would greatly extend the life of the transmission & increase it's > performance over the lifetime. That's my philosophy as well. YMMV, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 21:47:17 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett, What do you mean (see below)? This is the 1st time I've had my car on a dyno and I have no idea what was done incorrectly. Should they run to the redline is 4th or 5th so the maximum speed is less, or what? John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 7:30 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Dyno Speeds: Was Alutec or ASA wheels > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Find a new dyno shop. > > Have them test the vehicle correctly. You might be surprised at how much > power you're really putting out. > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > I see your point about the tires , but to complete a dyno run I > > would think > > you need to run up to the red line. In 6th gear at 6500RPM they > > hit 220mph. > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 02:00:17 -0500 From: Marty Fraiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E34 540i issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, I've been lurking for a while on the list and it's been very interesting. I saw a comment recently on the list about folks eventually gravitating to BMW after they get over the yuppy pr!ck thing. That's me - once I got over that little thing a few years ago I don't like driving anything else, except for utilitarian reasons :) Thought I'd post some questions about a 1995 540i 6-speed I purchased this past September. Apologies for the length but I've kinda got a laundry list and thought some history might be in order too. I needed a car for longer trips than might be comfortable in my M3 and saw this fine looking E34 540i for sale at a nearby office building. I kind of got carried away and bought the car without thoroughly checking it out, driving others, etc. I know, bad idea, but I just couldn't help myself and it seemed a reasonable deal at the time. The seller had a big list of things that had been replaced and through some research it appeared they were all the usual suspects for this car with 93,000 miles. That is, radiator, clutch, many suspension bits and block. I asked him what was causing the check engine light to periodically come on - could it be oxygen sensor(s)? No, he assured me that had been checked numerous times and the gas cap was the likely culprit. I'm too trusting ... I bought the car two or three weeks after first seeing it. Well, of course it turned out there was nothing wrong with the gas cap and both oxygen sensors were bad. While it was in the shop it also got a service II, belts, fluid flushes, and valve cover gaskets, etc. They told me the tranny didn't need fluid replaced 'cause it was 'lifetime' fluid. I don't really buy that and think I should get some new tranny fluid, probably diff too. The mechanic didn't seem to notice that the there was anything wrong w/ suspension and steering even though I specifically asked them to check it (more on that later). I guess I should mention I took it to the local dealer - maybe another bad move. It had a gnarly bumpy-ish ride and some horrible looking (corroded) Borbet wheels and pretty worn-out tires so I'm thinking some new round wheels and tires will fix that vibration thing and I'll be good to go. So, off to TireRack for some wheels and tires which made it a little better but the ride still isn't right. Darn. It also had this terribly vague on-center feel that caused it to wander around, especially on the highway. I found on the e34.net site the how-to on tightening the nut connecting the steering shaft spline to u-joint - did that and what a difference that made! Thought of giving the dealer that little tidbit of info but haven't done it. I had already taken the dash parts off to fix the electric steering column adjuster so it was real quick to get in there the second time. I also fixed the driver side headrest adjuster using e34.net resource. All these breakable geegaws are a bit much - i don't need an electric steering column or headrest adjuster - but what do you do? After driving it more I noticed it seemed to dive excessively on braking, lift on acceleration, and roll on cornering. At first I just presumed that was because it was heavier and 'softer' than I was used to in the //M car. After a while I realized struts/shocks must be in order - it's a BMW after all, not a Cadillac, and shouldn't do this. After some amount of figuring out what to get I ordered some Eibach springs and Bilstein dampers - my brother and I installed them and away went all the rolling, diving, etc - the slight lowering looks pretty nifty too. We also installed new rear brakes. I was worried about the ride being too harsh but it seems ok, although the irritating vibration thing is still there and maybe a bit more noticeable now which I kind of expected - until I fix it, which I'm determined to do. So far, I'm into this for a fair amount of $$$ more than I was expecting but I can't just leave it in the shape it was in. Oh yeah, after I bought it also noticed the hood has some little dentlets, doesn't quite fit right at one corner, hinge bushing is missing and DOT-R sticker. Oh well, if it was wrecked I hope it wasn't too bad. As far as I could tell the bumper, etc looked ok visually but hard to tell. This is where I am at the moment. I've spent a bunch of $$$ to get some things right and still have a little (hopefully) way to go. I suppose at some point I should decide it it's worth dumping more money into - if not sell it, likely at a loss, go find a nicer example and chalk it up to experience. I really like the car though and wouldn't mind fixing it up if it's feasible and not horribly exhorbitant. So, finally to my list of symptoms/questions and what's next. 1) The ride: It's hard to explain but it feels kind of like any little bump is transmitted to the body (my seat, steering wheel) from 20 mph, or less, on up. It seems to smooth out a bit at 65 or so and doesn't get worse with speed. So it doesn't seem to be a rotating mass but more like metal-metal where a bushing should be. Oddly though, it's hard to correlate the 'bumpiness' with a particular road - i.e. it might do it on what appears to be a smooth road. I'm thinking it's probably thrust arm bushings and/or some sort of frame bushings. Even though thrust arm bushings were listed among the seller's list of replaced items they didn't show up in the stack of receipts he gave me. I looked at them while we had the car up doing the springs/dampers but couldn't tell much. How do I tell if they're in need of replacement? And if they are should I get the OEM arms and 750i bushings I've seen in a few places as replacements or BavAuto has some replacements with bushings installed? I don't think the dealer prices, even w/ CCA discount, are something I want to pay unless I have to. Was it a mistake to get 17" wheels - that's what was on there when I bought it and I got same size as replacements. I think even this model came with 15" wheels and I'm wondering if the suspension just doesn't work right with something other than it may have been designed for? 2) clutch: it's been replaced but dis/engages really high. i.e. if you rest your foot on the pedal it starts to disengage. Is that right and, if not, how might it be corrected? 3) burning rubber smell: I periodically notice a burning rubber smell but haven't been able to figure out where it's coming from nor really how to reproduce it. I think it happens when I put a pretty good load on - i.e. wind up the engine going up tight, curvy roads maybe? Any ideas? 4) heater core: I've started smelling coolant in the cabin recently and suspect the heater core. How do I check it and where's a good place to get one if I need to replace it? Luckily, spring is coming so I suppose can put it off for some time now. 5) transmission: the transmission (manual) seems awfully unsmooth when changing gears. It works ok when in gear but going through the gears doesn't come without some thought and making sure it's actually pushed into gear. Even moving between gears at a standstill doesn't feel right. It's hard to explain but it feels kind of sloppy and you have to push it through something to get in gear. I'm thinking some new tranny fluid would help but maybe something's damaged? 6) power steering: When cold (< 35 F) the steering is very stiff and doesn't return to center. It doesn't seem to improve even when the engine warms up. I've noticed I have a leak from the reservoir and got some (pricey) CHF 11S fluid to keep it topped off until hopefully I figure out where the leak is and fix it. There was fluid in the reservoir but it didn't quite reach the cap's dipstick. It hasn't gotten cold enough since I filled the reservoir to know if that had anything to do with it. Any ideas on this one? I'll probably take it to the local independent shop to see about these items but would like to have some clue beforehand, plus I can do some of the work myself. Unfortunately the local independent shop isn't quite like some described on the list. I don't normally get to talk to the mechanic and they'll just fix things sometimes w/o calling and it can be a bit of a surprise when they present the bill. Well, that's the saga so far. I hope it wasn't too long and greatly appreciate any ideas and/or assistance anyone has to offer. Thanks, Marty '96 M3 '95 540i 6sp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:11:48 -0500 From: "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 540i issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Marty, welcome to the digest. I have a few answers comments. <<1) The ride: Was it a mistake to get 17" wheels>> Shouldnt think so. 17" wheels came with sport packages and M5s <<2) clutch: it's been replaced but ....>>>> In my 95 540, the clutch was good for 40-45K miles.... You could be due.. <<3) burning rubber smell:>> Is it rubber, or is that clutch? <<5) transmission>> Redline fluid change sometimes helps. Stock bushings and stuff in the shiter mechanism are likely worn. That's all I know. Steve Stoner 97M3 95 540iMsport - gone not forgotton 325ix, 318is, 535i, gone. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 12:59:58 +0200 From: "Pavel Tcholakov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, My air direction control doesn't seem to work. It's a knob, but it's the electric kind, not the cable-controlled one. Car is a '94 E36. The cold/hot controls all work, as does the fan speed knob. The air direction knob however doesn't seem to do anything, air doesn't come into the windscreen nor does it blow into the footwell. I found about the resistors in the fan speed switch, is this a related issue? Is the fix potentially simple, or is a major dash disassembly involved? Somebody suggested that it might be a cabin air filter, but it's clean and I get nice airflow from the front vents. Best regards, Pavel '94 320i ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:38:53 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You mean the hot/cold wheel in the centre dash vent? That's the only electric vent control on the E36 (pre IKHA/1996), and even then, only in 93 and earlier I think. The knob that runs floor/face/defrost uses a cable that actuates a cam on the right side of the heater box, easily accessible once removing the glove box. Most likely the cable has popped out of it's retainer. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Hello, > > My air direction control doesn't seem to work. It's a knob, but it's the > electric kind, not the cable-controlled one. Car is a '94 E36. The > cold/hot controls all work, as does the fan speed knob. The air > direction knob however doesn't seem to do anything, air doesn't come > into the windscreen nor does it blow into the footwell. > > I found about the resistors in the fan speed switch, is this a related > issue? Is the fix potentially simple, or is a major dash disassembly > involved? > > Somebody suggested that it might be a cabin air filter, but it's clean > and I get nice airflow from the front vents. > > Best regards, > Pavel > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 16:55:59 +0200 From: "Pavel Tcholakov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> No, it is the floor/face/defrost knob I'm talking about. It feels like it is electrical because it can turn freely through 360 degrees, and you can feel it step through a number of discrete positions as opposed to pulling a cable. I have also pulled the HVAC control module loose and as far as I can feel, there's only a bunch of wires coming out of it but I've never been able to maneuver it out of the dash to actually look at the back of it. If the cam is on the right, does that mean it's harder to get to in a right hand drive car? :-) Bugger. Thanks though, I'll see in my Haynes book how to get to that cam. Cheers, Pavel -----Original Message----- From: Brett Anderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 4:38 PM To: Pavel Tcholakov Subject: RE: [UUC] <E36> HVAC question: Air only comes out of front vents You mean the hot/cold wheel in the centre dash vent? That's the only electric vent control on the E36 (pre IKHA/1996), and even then, only in 93 and earlier I think. The knob that runs floor/face/defrost uses a cable that actuates a cam on the right side of the heater box, easily accessible once removing the glove box. Most likely the cable has popped out of it's retainer. Brett Anderson KMS ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:08:45 -0500 From: "GA Carnut" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: New Member BMW CCA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> my # is 327419. That's a lot of BMW club members! Chip Chip Mautz '65 Austin Healey Sprite '88 BMW 528e '03 Chevy Suburban I didn't grow up - my toys just got more expensive. Your mileage may vary. My odometer broke years ago... >From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: [UUC] New Member BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2004 13:13:33 -0800 (PST) > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >Chip, > >I think that's a transaction number, not her CCA member number. >If I read your post right you member # is somewhere around 320000. I >joined in 9/2000 and have #190565. >Have that many people really joined in the last 3 1/2 years? That would be >over 35,000 new members a year, seems like a lot. > >Brian >'94 325ic > >-----Original Message----- >From: GA Carnut <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > ><snipped> >Is that CCA # right? > >I just joined too, but my # is nearly 270,000 more than yours. Or did you >purposely leave a digit off? > > >From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ><snipped> > >To let you know, I have joined: Your New > >Membership transaction # 54816 confirmation from BMW CCA. > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
