The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 53 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: NYC Car Stuff
Re: NYC Car Stuff
Re: NYC Car Stuff
Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Advice
Re: Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Advice
Re: Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Advice
Re: E46 Suspension Info Needed
Suspension advise?
Re: NYC Car Stuff
Re: oil change interval
303 Protectant
Re: 303 Protectant
Re: Rough idling and running 2000 M5
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 03:39:15 -0500
From: "." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: BMW Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: NYC Car Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
For BMW oriented tourist attractions, there is the BMW Gallery at 320
Park Avenue. Haven't been there lately so you may want to check if its
still there.
I'm finishing a week visiting back east, and driving back here in
NJ and eastern PA reminds me how relatively good we have it regarding
the performance car population and traffic enforcement back in
California. One round trip I made was from Philly out I195 towards the
Jersey shore. Signs on the highway say its named for "James Howard, an
untiring advocate of transportation". Truth is he was one of the main
opponents in Congress to abolishing the 55, and not until after he
passes away did New Jersey do so. The levels of visible traffic
enforcement I saw reflect the statistic I recall from several years
back, not sure if its still true but sure looked like it, that NJ writes
more tickets per licensed driver than any other state. And sadly few
BMWs on the road compared to CA where an //M3 stands out little in a car
culture where old Hondas, Mitsubishis, Supras, and RX7s don't rust when
they get old, they grow grapefruit shooter mufflers, body kits, arrest
me officer rear wings, and enough conspicuousness as these rushing manic
buzzbombs play dodge-bumper through traffic as if they were Scott
Peterson heading for Mexico that my //M3 rarely gets a second look.
Survived without getting a ticket all week I like to rent a
nondescript bland Ford or Chevy to be sure. This time I had a dirty
beige metallic Malibu. How dull and lifeless a car it looks. The Chevy
4 banger was real spunky, surprisingly good fuel economy, and lots of
fun to toss around, unlike the nose heavy understeer of the Tauruses and
GrandAm/Alero GM platforms I've rented before.
The best automotive entertainment in NYC I can suggest might be to
hail a cab in Chinatown, tell the cabbie you need to get to the
Cathedral of St. John the Divine really quick, sit back, hold your
breath, and enjoy the ride.
Barry
Nancy Fluharty wrote:
>...But I was hoping for some suggestions
>about car-related stuff to see or do, since we will be carless for the
>duration ...
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:03:12 -0500
From: "Robert Jackowitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: NYC Car Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
320 Park is long gone. Been a few years. BMW built a much nicer gallery/showroom over
on 57th and 11th. Some decent vintage stuff was there too.
-----Original Message-----
From: . [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 3:39 AM
To: BMW Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] NYC Car Stuff
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
For BMW oriented tourist attractions, there is the BMW Gallery at 320
Park Avenue. Haven't been there lately so you may want to check if its
still there.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 11:36:18 -0500
From: "GA Carnut" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: NYC Car Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<snip>
>
>I hate NYC taxi drivers. But I do enjoy playing the "blind out of
>state driver in a long pickup truck who doesn't see your yellow POS
>and will happily take your menacing drift-over and counter with an
>even more aggressive drift-over, with my bumper at your mirror
>height" game. (breathe!)
Damn, you caught me - that's exactly the game I *used* to play here in Metro
Atlanta, in my '01 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad-cab pickup, at speed! Cut me off,
will you! ;-)
Missing those days... not - my 528e is more fun, at twice the MPG! No
respect in traffic though. But not as bad as an LBC (little british car)...
Chip
Chip Mautz
'65 Austin Healey Sprite
'88 BMW 528e
'03 Chevy Suburban
I didn't grow up - my toys just got more expensive.
Your mileage may vary. My odometer broke years ago...
_________________________________________________________________
Click, drag and drop. My MSN is the simple way to design your homepage.
http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200364ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 08:24:13 -0500
From: "Bill Heumann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Advice
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I am not sure exactly what went wrong but a lug bolt provided with some
aftermarket alloys sheared off inside my left front wheel hub on my E46
M3 when I went to take them off. Presumably I cross threaded it when
putting these on but I thread them on by hand until ready to torque so I
don't really understand what I did to cause this.
At any rate, after several hours with progressively larger drill bits
and stripping threads on a set of "easy outs" I have decided if I ever
get the remnants of the bolt out of the hub, the hub threads will be
damaged anyway. Now I am looking at getting a new hub/bearing assembly
and trying the install. I have several questions and would appreciate
any input from the group;
1. Best source for a new hub/bearing assembly? It looks like Bavarian
Auto has them for about $270/ea (ouch).
2. I have the Bentley Manual for E46 series but it is not yet published
specifically listing my car. Are these instructions and the special
tools listed reasonably correct?
3. Several special tools listed, do I need them all?
4. Best source for the tools if different from the part itself?
Bill Heumann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:55:21 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Advice
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Generally, the tools for front wheel bearing removal and install are not
needed. Only if the bearing is in really bad shape, and has got very hot as
a result, are the tools needed.
Remove the nut, gently pull the bearing off by hand, keep it straight or it
will get jammed.
Get a deep socket that goes over the spindle, but contacts the inner race of
the bearing. Slide the bearing on as far as you can by hand (not usually
very far) and then tap into place with the socket and a hammer. Failure to
make contact with the inner race will cause it to be pulled out of the
bearing, potentially destroying the assembly.
Brett Anderson
KMS
> -----Original Message-----
> I am not sure exactly what went wrong but a lug bolt provided with some
> aftermarket alloys sheared off inside my left front wheel hub on my E46
> M3 when I went to take them off.
> 1. Best source for a new hub/bearing assembly? It looks like Bavarian
> Auto has them for about $270/ea (ouch).
> 2. I have the Bentley Manual for E46 series but it is not yet published
> specifically listing my car. Are these instructions and the special
> tools listed reasonably correct?
> 3. Several special tools listed, do I need them all?
> 4. Best source for the tools if different from the part itself?
>
> Bill Heumann
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 08:36:25 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Advice
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Bill,
I think this is pretty common setup across the model range. You will need
the following:
A huge socket--the one for my E30 M3 is 32mm, I assume the E46 would be
similar
A totque wrench capable of 220 ft-lbs, maybe more based on model
A breaker bar & a whole lot of a$$ to go behind it (one of mine had been
severly overheated & had to use a jack under the breaker bar to get it
loose)
About 3-4 beers
It's a pretty straight-forward job. Took us about 2 hours to do both front
hubs on my car. I couldn't find a 32mm socket anywhere, but was able to
borrow one from a local shop.
Best of luck.
Lee
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bill Heumann
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 08:24
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [UUC] Front Wheel Hub/Bearing Advice
>
>
> Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> I am not sure exactly what went wrong but a lug bolt provided
> with some
> aftermarket alloys sheared off inside my left front wheel hub
> on my E46
> M3 when I went to take them off. Presumably I cross threaded it when
> putting these on but I thread them on by hand until ready to
> torque so I
> don't really understand what I did to cause this.
>
> At any rate, after several hours with progressively larger drill bits
> and stripping threads on a set of "easy outs" I have decided if I ever
> get the remnants of the bolt out of the hub, the hub threads will be
> damaged anyway. Now I am looking at getting a new hub/bearing assembly
> and trying the install. I have several questions and would appreciate
> any input from the group;
>
> 1. Best source for a new hub/bearing assembly? It looks like Bavarian
> Auto has them for about $270/ea (ouch).
> 2. I have the Bentley Manual for E46 series but it is not yet
> published
> specifically listing my car. Are these instructions and the special
> tools listed reasonably correct?
> 3. Several special tools listed, do I need them all?
> 4. Best source for the tools if different from the part itself?
>
> Bill Heumann
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of
> the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 14:07:04 +0000
From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E46 Suspension Info Needed
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Scott pondered the rumours:
>Rumor has it that the original U.S. E46 330i had a base suspension and
>a sport package optional suspension, but that at some point the sport
>suspension became standard on U.S. cars.
>
>Another rumor has it that the standard suspension on the E46 330Ci is
>the same (or really close) as the 330i sport package suspension.
I can't say anything about the top, but all E46 coupes came standard with
sport suspension. (The same suspension you got when ordering the sport
suspension on the sedan or touring.)
I believe the first rumour to be true, but I have no facts to back it up.
And I sure wouldn't know when the changover took place.
Gilbert
_________________________________________________________________
Take off on a romantic weekend or a family adventure to these great U.S.
locations. http://special.msn.com/local/hotdestinations.armx
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 16:16:07 +0200
From: "Pavel Tcholakov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Suspension advise?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hello,
I wrote to the list a while ago asking about some suspension advise. Now
the time has come to actually decide on specific products. Since
everybody around me recommends either what they have themselves or what
they sell, I can't get very objective comparisons of what's available.
I'm not in the US and I've found that the following is available
locally:
- Weitec shocks, springs and coil-overs (I don't think these are
wide-spread in the US, come from Germany and sound very good)
- Bilstein and H&R
- Eibach springs
- Koni coil-overs
Can anybody please give me some more insight into these products? How do
they compare? What are the advantages and disadvantages of different
combos?
I'm not sure the premium for coil-overs is worth it to me, I have
tracked/autox'd my car and will do it again, but it's primary use is as
a daily driver so I don't want to compromise it too badly for street
use. I've read that a lot of people don't find adjustability very useful
either unless it's for serious racing. More than an inch and a half of
drop will be too much for my needs. I'm still running the stock 15"
wheels with 205/60 rubber but planning to upgrade to 16" or 17" soon.
What are your thoughts? What will further enhance the handling with
street drivability in mind after this mod? I am planning to get a
X-brace and a thicker rear sway bar next.
Best regards,
Pavel
'94 320i. Now with CAI.
PS. Thanks for the info regarding the window regulator change, Brett! I
can enjoy fresh air in my face and the full engine noise once again :-)
--
Pavel Tcholakov
Technology Systems Integration (Pty) Ltd.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel. +27 11 7921094
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 09:21:23 -0500
From: Steve Tymoszuk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: NYC Car Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
bob,
depending on when you'll be there, the ny internation auto show starts on
april 10th. see http://www.autoshowny.com/ for details.
-steve
At 11:38 PM 2/29/2004, Nancy Fluharty wrote:
>My inquiry about NYC Car Stuff got several responses about DRIVING in NY and
>the attendant craziness.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:29:18 -0500
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: oil change interval
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I would think that it's not the life of the oil that would necessitate a
change, rather the reduced efficiency of the filter. I notice that oil
cunsumption increases the longer the oil is in the car.
While I think Mike's point of waiting 10-15k is a valid one, there are, of
course, other considerations. I have 2 examples.
First, my M3 might require 8 or more years to get to his 10-15k mileage for
an oil change, as it's only driven periodically. When it is driven, it's
generally tracked or autocrossed, & I've seen oil temps north of 235 degF,
which while likely WELL within the range of synthetic oil (Penzoil Synthetic
5w50 in my case) can't really be that good for it. Plus, we're talking
about an S14 with 150k on it, that sees a pretty severe duty cycle--really
wanna try that on 8 year old (or even 2-3 year old) oil? FWIW, I had
considered going to an annual change (to match the tranny & diff fluid) &
testing half-way between.
Second, for my new Saab. Saab recommends a 10k oil change interval.
However, for what they term "extreme" driving, i.e. frequent short trips or
lots of stop & go traffic (i.e. Atlanta), that the interval should be
reduced to 5k. While I think 5k is a little often for the synthetic blend
that Saab recommends (although with that turbo, maybe not), I do it anyway
as it MAY affect resale value. All three of the prospective buyers (none of
the mofo's bought the pile of sh... though) who've called me about my car,
have asked if the oil was changed every 5k. I'm pretty sure answering "no"
would affect the value or even the sale altogether. Spending an extra $25
bucks at 5, 15, 25, etc k miles seems like pretty cheap insurance to help
maintain the value of an expensive (for me anyway) car.
Lee
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Derian
> Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 15:36
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] oil change interval
>
>
> Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> Adding a quart of oil every few thousand miles replenishes
> the additives and
> greatly extends the life of the oil. In fact, if you consume
> a quart every
> thousand miles or so, you really don't ever have to change the oil.
>
> It is best to top off the oil with the same stuff used at the
> oil change.
> Different oils have different additive packages and mixing
> may lead to sub
> optimal performance. Not a critical issue, but if you have a
> choice, keep
> it the same.
>
> I use Shell Rotella T in my E30s and Mobil 1 in the E34s.
>
> Gary Derian
>
>
>
> > Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> > Thanks to this list, I've ordered the Blackstone Lab test
> sampler, so it
> > will be interesting to see what is found. As a point of
> reference, my '88
> > 535is now has about 238,000 miles on it, with no internal
> work other than
> > valve adjustments. It's got the Conforti chip, and sees
> redline about
> once
> > a day on my favorite limited access freeway ramps, but has
> never been
> > "tracked". I've had the car since 72,000 miles, and have
> always changed
> oil
> > per the service lights / rev counter. The car does not
> smoke or drip, and
> > only uses one or two quarts between oil changes. Ok I
> guess that means it
> > smokes, you just can't see it. I attempted to use all
> synthetic for about
> > two oil changes a few years ago, and the head gasket
> started seeping. I
> had
> > it retorqued and it still seemed to seep. I quit taking in
> my Mobile 1
> for
> > the oil changes, and now only top up with Mobile 1, so it's a small
> > percentage of the lubricant. The head gasket seeping
> stopped with this
> > practice. The only noticeable "issues" with the engine are:
> > a. #1 cam lobe wear. PPI @72k showed tiny flaw in cam
> surface, which is
> > now very noisy despite checking the oil bar w/ each valve adjust.
> > b. Cold starts are effortless and smooth, but warm starts
> take some gas
> > peddling, and sound like no fire in 1 cyl. for about 30 seconds.
> > It will be interesting to see what the lab report says.
> >
> > Steve Poland
> > Portland, OR
> >
> >
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder
> of the BMW CCA.
> >
> > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of
> the Ultimate
> > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> >
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> ____________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of
> the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:42:25 -0500
From: "K.C. Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 303 Protectant
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Gruppe,
I've been using Vinylex to keep my plastic trim new looking since I've
gotten my car. It looks good upon first application, but comes off when it
gets wet, leaving a "streaky" look.
I was browsing around my store the other day and noticed that 303 Protectant
(which we sell to keep boats looking good) mentions automotive use. Has
anyone used this on plastic or rubber trim? Results?
TIA,
KC Boyce
'97 M3/4
E30 Eta Page: http://www.e30eta.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 09:16:09 -0600
From: Eric Giles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 303 Protectant
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
KC-
The 303 protectant is highly regarded in the detailing circles. It is
probably the most recommended automotive vinyl protectant there is. I
have used Vinylex and 303-303 is the only thing I will use now. It is
not greasy and leaves a nice finish. It also is said to protect from UV
better than anything else.
No affiliation, just a happy customer!
Eric Giles
'97 M3/4
'90 M3
K.C. Boyce wrote:
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>Gruppe,
>
>I've been using Vinylex to keep my plastic trim new looking since I've
>gotten my car. It looks good upon first application, but comes off when it
>gets wet, leaving a "streaky" look.
>
>I was browsing around my store the other day and noticed that 303 Protectant
>(which we sell to keep boats looking good) mentions automotive use. Has
>anyone used this on plastic or rubber trim? Results?
>
>TIA,
>
> KC Boyce
> '97 M3/4
> E30 Eta Page: http://www.e30eta.com
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 09:51:21 -0600
From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Rough idling and running 2000 M5
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Dana,
I had similar problems with my '01, although it did not actually go into
limp mode. Fault codes indicated a bad exhaust cam position sensor, which
was replaced by the dealer. I did not have any more episodes of changed
exhaust note, but continued SES illuminations resulted in the subsequent
replacement of both intake cam position sensor and VANOS for the same bank
(1) -- all under warranty, thank goodness. FWIW, I had had intermittent
problems with SES since I took delivery of the car. I'm hoping the new vanos
pack has taken care of the problem, and so far so good. Maybe someone clever
on the list will opine on the likelihood of these things being related.
In any case, my guess is a faulty cam position sensor. That I think is the
most common failure and hopefully will be the culprit, as a VANOS pack is
nearly two orders of magnitude more $.
Good luck,
Scott Staewen
>
>Got almost 40k miles, and all of a sudden, it started running like it has 7
>cylinders, and the muffler sounds meaner... AND the "service engine soon"
>light came on, but is intermittently so.
>
>What gives?!
>
>Dana LeJune
>Trialguy
>
>
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------------------------------
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