The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 1 : Issue 91 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: *$%# E30 fuel issues
  Re: *$%# E30 fuel issues
  Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
  New to me '91 318is
  Re: Buyers Guide for a 2001 X5
  Re: E34 heater core done!
  OT - lame garage door remotes
  Re: OT - lame garage door remotes
  Re: OT - lame garage door remotes
  Re: OT - lame garage door remotes
  Re: OT - lame garage door remotes

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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 15:57:58 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: *$%# E30 fuel issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Another item to check is the crank sensor, though this usually does strange things 
when it starts to
fail. When mine started to fial intermittently on my E36 the car would surge wildly, 
then flood and
stall.

On my roommates 1989 E30, which had a more dramatic failure (the wire to the sensor 
failed), it
simply stalled and wouldn't start. 

I found that the wire feeding into the crank sensor had failed where it ran into the 
sensor.  The
car would crank but not run.  Like you, I originally thought fuel pump, then finally 
migrated to the
crank sensor in my diagnostics.  

If I remember correctly, it's on the left front of the motor.  It's a small magnet 
that plugs into
the casing to "watch" the teeth on the crank go by.  It's a bit awkward to get the 
wiring out since
it runs by the fan, but it's another thing to check.  from what I've seen, crank 
sensors are a
problem area in the I6 engines. There's a recall ont he later E36s for it, I've seen 
them go on an
E30 and an E36.  Makes it a candidate to me.

Don't sell the car.  If you think mechanical gremlins are tough to troubleshoot, what 
til you get
into a layer of electronic problems on top of that.

> On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 12:40:11 -0800, jkerouac wrote:

> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> >Damnable thing just quit on me again.
> >
> >Here is the rundown (87 325i): 
> >
> >Took to stalling out on me at random but ever increasing times. Acted like
> >it was running out of gas.
> >
> >Replaced main and fuel pump relays.
> >
> >Still did it.
> >
> >Checked and replaced transfer pump. Seemed to have fixed the problem.
> >
> >Saturday, it wouldn't start at all. Confirmed that the main pump had quit.
> >
> >Yesterday replaced main pump. Car runs. Yea!
> >
> >Today, car stalls out again. I can cycle the fuel pumps manually and get it
> >to catch and run for a few seconds, then it stalls out again. Can't keep it
> >running. 
> >
> >I am kind of at the end of my rope. Suggestions? Please? I have people
> >telling me to buy a new car. What else is left? Fuel pressure regulator?
> >Water in the fuel (It was -2 this morning)?
> >
> >-- Joe, E30 paper weight.
> >
> >--
> >Joseph M. Krzeszewski                            Network Operations
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]                     Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
> >
> >__________________________________________________________________________
> >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> >
> >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

Marc Plante
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 13:17:18 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: *$%# E30 fuel issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Joseph,

Does the E30 have a throttle switch? It would be a black trapazoidal shaped
unit right in line with the throttle plate shaft. The operation can be
checked with a meter.
Also have you cleaned the area around the throttle plate to avoid sticking
of the plate?

-Kevin



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 16:48:32 -0500
From: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

This sounds very similar to the way my 325e acted for a while.

My problem turned out to be an intermittent fuel pump relay which was
working sometimes and not others.  It wasn't the main fuel relay but one of
the small ones in the fusebox under the hood.

Replaced it and it's been running great ever since.


Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam
BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters
JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced


 -----------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 11:25:51 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list)
Subject: *$%# E30 fuel issues
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Damnable thing just quit on me again.

Here is the rundown (87 325i):

Took to stalling out on me at random but ever increasing times. Acted like
it was running out of gas.

Replaced main and fuel pump relays.

Still did it.

Checked and replaced transfer pump. Seemed to have fixed the problem.

Saturday, it wouldn't start at all. Confirmed that the main pump had quit.

Yesterday replaced main pump. Car runs. Yea!

Today, car stalls out again. I can cycle the fuel pumps manually and get it
to catch and run for a few seconds, then it stalls out again. Can't keep it
running.

I am kind of at the end of my rope. Suggestions? Please? I have people
telling me to buy a new car. What else is left? Fuel pressure regulator?
Water in the fuel (It was -2 this morning)?

-- Joe, E30 paper weight.

--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski                       Network Operations
[EMAIL PROTECTED]                        Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet

**********


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 13:49:02 -0800
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: New to me '91 318is
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Our Sunny SD Chapter webmeister wanted to get rid of his toy last night so I had my 
son drive up and meet me at the meeting to check out the car and see if he likes it. 
Our webmeister and I shook hands after that and I followed my son on the way home 
after the meeting. 20 miles down the freeway I smelled something burning and pushed to 
check button and everything checked out and I was reassured. I pulled to the next lane 
and see if the smell would dissipate and it did, when my cell phone rang. It was my 
son in front of us telling me his car (the old one) quit and he's taking the next exit.

As soon as we got out of the freeway the car wouldn't run anymore and smoke all over 
the place. It was about 8PM and an unlighted exit so I can't really see if it was 
white or dark smoke so I called a tow truck figuring it was just the radiator. After 
what seemed to be 10 minutes we noticed some flickering under the right wheel well; 
yup it was the start of an engine fire. By the time the fire truck came around the 
whole engine was already engulfed. Scary stuff I tell you. Needless to say, the car is 
totaled but we already got a replacement which is good. I'll pick up the new car on 
Friday but maybe it's worth noting that these cars I think, can see and feel that 
they're getting replaced, don't you think?

I'm just happy no one got hurt. But those tires were new maybe 2k miles on them. Oh 
well. Lesson learned: don't hurt the car's feelings.;-)

Pingger


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 22:38:18 -0000
From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Buyers Guide for a 2001 X5
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Chip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> enthuses:

"A '97 Range Rover would be a BMW!  They bought Rover in '90*, and took over
production in '95*!

As an aside, is Lucas (electronics) still in business?  I know there's a
Lucas oil, but don't think they're related."

"Now, on my '65 Sprite, well, hell, that's ALL Lucas!  Yeah, baby!  Master
of
Darkness..."

BMW bought Rover Group from British Aerospace in 1994.  Meaningful impacts
on production were made shortly thereafter, with favourable long-term
reviews of the then-new Rover 600.  By 1994 Rover had - for its passenger
car business anyway - learned a great deal from Honda, and the bulk of its
range had a better reputation for reliability than equivalent Fords,
Vauxhalls (GM) and almost anything Italian.

Lucas is still very much in business, and is a major supplier to - you
guessed it - BMW.  Lucas has been one of several suppliers of OE brake
components.  Before you all scream in fear at the next fast-approaching
bend, Lucas mainly supplied drum brakes for rear of vanilla E30s and E36s.
Lucas and Girling often work together on brake componentry these days,
having a relationship not unlike Getrag and ZF - who often spend time
building each other's gearboxes.

The Prince of Darkness (tm) however is well and truly alive, supplying
electrical components to owners of British sports cars throughout the
Commonwealth and beyond.

Andy T
'03 318i 2.0.  ATE brakes.  I hope




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 20:58:54 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E34 heater core done!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

No need for a catch can if you have compressed air.

Coolant is very nasty on carpet.  What you do is remove the hoses from the
heater core pipes at the firewall, blow clean water into the inlet pipe, to
flush out any coolant, then blow compressed air into inlet pipe to blow out
any water.

Worst case, you don't get all the water out and a little dribbles onto your
carpet.  Much better than dealing with the carpet falling apart a month
later from the coolant dribbles that you didn't catch.

Electrical problem, check the inline fuse on the smaller of the two battery
cables for a hairline crack.  If the car is early enough to still have the
battery in the engine bay, this fuse is screwed into place and you'll need
to unscrew it to check it.

Brett Anderson
KMS



> -----Original Message-----
> I just wanted to pass on my thanks to the list for the recent advice on my
> heater core swap, especially Roland.  I was able to get the whole job done
> in just under 5 hours, filled, bleed, and heat coming out of the vents.
> Overall this job was not as bad as I had anticipated, just a lot of little
> screws and many wires to contend with.  For anyone who may have to do this
> job in the future, get lots of paper towels, and a nice two liter
> bottle to
> make into a catch pan for the core.
>
> Now my next question:  I have had a very intermittent stumble or
> hesitation
> that cropped up last summer, and again, twice in the past few weeks.  The
> car will die for a second, check engine, anti lock lights etc.
> come on, then
> it comes back to life and works fine.  This symptom has occurred at random
> times, under acceleration, cruise, etc.  There is no rhyme or
> reason to when
> it might happen.  I have been told that this could be a main
> relay starting
> to give up the ghost.  Any thoughts?  Is this a good place to start?
> Finally, which relay is the main one?  My Haynes manual (second rate to
> Bentley - I know) does not list the position of relays.  I have a
> new relay
> in the glove box waiting........
> Andrew Harkonen
> '89 535i




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 01:27:03 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: OT - lame garage door remotes
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Not long ago, I used to rent a garage whose remote would open the door from literally 
three blocks away.  My current garage came with two pitiful little remotes which 
sometimes fail to open the door when I'm sitting in the car inside the garage!  I've 
replaced the batteries, which had no effect, but I think that the batteries--the type 
of batteries, that is--are the problem.  Each of these remotes uses a battery that 
looks like it belongs in a watch, while the old, kick-ass one used a 9-volt.  

I talked to a guy who installs garage doors, and he said that they don't make remotes 
like they used to, and that it can't be helped.  Could this possibly be true?  And, if 
so, would simply rigging a more powerful battery to one of these remotes be likely to 
help or would it be more likely to just fry it?

Sorry to clutter the Digest with this non-BMW content (although these lame openers do 
work noticeably better when they only have to send a signal through my 325iC's canvas 
top, as opposed to the Blazer's roof) but I'm no electronics expert and this sucks.

TIA,

Mike Kozitka

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:26:03 -0500
From: UUC Admin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT - lame garage door remotes
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I had the same problem.

I added this system to my garage door:

Genie Intellicode Universal Conversion Kit
Each time the system is activated, it automatically selects a new Access 
Code from 4.3 billion combinations.
Model:  GIRU-1T
Product Code:  1061

It works from 1/2 way down the block, which is enough for me. :)

Mandatory BMW Content: Anyone have any idea what could cause OBD Codes 
P1174/P1175 on an 1997 E39 540i? I'm trying to help a digest member out 
with this problem, and I'm not sure where to start tracking this one down. 
The actual error is Fuel Trim Adaptation Additive Malfunction on Bank 1 & 
2. Anyone have any ideas on what some of the common causes of this one 
could be?


At 01:27 AM 1/15/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>I talked to a guy who installs garage doors, and he said that they don't 
>make remotes like they used to, and that it can't be helped.  Could this 
>possibly be true?  And, if so, would simply rigging a more powerful 
>battery to one of these remotes be likely to help or would it be more 
>likely to just fry it?

Michael K Donohue
System Administrator
UUC Digest
http://www.uucdigest.com


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 10:23:47 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: OT - lame garage door remotes
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I would start by monitoring the EGO sensor output to see what is going on.
The sensor(s) may be bad, or some other fault is causing the adaptation to
reach its limit without correcting the oxygen level in the exhaust.  Note I
said oxygen level, not fuel mixture, because that is what the sensor senses.

Vacuum leak, bad injector, bad sensor, fuel pressure, misfire, etc.

Gary Derian
>
> Mandatory BMW Content: Anyone have any idea what could cause OBD Codes
> P1174/P1175 on an 1997 E39 540i? I'm trying to help a digest member out
> with this problem, and I'm not sure where to start tracking this one down.
> The actual error is Fuel Trim Adaptation Additive Malfunction on Bank 1 &
> 2. Anyone have any ideas on what some of the common causes of this one
> could be?



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:30:23 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: OT - lame garage door remotes
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I read the subject and Gary's reply and thought Gary was smoking crack.
Then I read farther down.  whew.

Marco

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Derian
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 7:24 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] OT - lame garage door remotes


Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


I would start by monitoring the EGO sensor output to see what is going on.
The sensor(s) may be bad, or some other fault is causing the adaptation to
reach its limit without correcting the oxygen level in the exhaust.  Note I
said oxygen level, not fuel mixture, because that is what the sensor senses.

Vacuum leak, bad injector, bad sensor, fuel pressure, misfire, etc.

Gary Derian
>
> Mandatory BMW Content: Anyone have any idea what could cause OBD Codes
> P1174/P1175 on an 1997 E39 540i? I'm trying to help a digest member out
> with this problem, and I'm not sure where to start tracking this one down.
> The actual error is Fuel Trim Adaptation Additive Malfunction on Bank 1 &
> 2. Anyone have any ideas on what some of the common causes of this one
> could be?


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:54:46 -0600
From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: OT - lame garage door remotes
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mike,

You might try adjusting the antenna of the opener, especially if it is a
loose wire like mine has. Make sure it isn't bundled up in a knot at the
back of the opener. Try changing its orientation as well.

Malcolm
'88 M5
'98 328i
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 12:27 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [UUC] OT - lame garage door remotes

Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


Not long ago, I used to rent a garage whose remote would open the door
from literally three blocks away.  My current garage came with two
pitiful little remotes which sometimes fail to open the door when I'm
sitting in the car inside the garage!  I've replaced the batteries,
which had no effect, but I think that the batteries--the type of
batteries, that is--are the problem.  Each of these remotes uses a
battery that looks like it belongs in a watch, while the old, kick-ass
one used a 9-volt.  

I talked to a guy who installs garage doors, and he said that they don't
make remotes like they used to, and that it can't be helped.  Could this
possibly be true?  And, if so, would simply rigging a more powerful
battery to one of these remotes be likely to help or would it be more
likely to just fry it?

Sorry to clutter the Digest with this non-BMW content (although these
lame openers do work noticeably better when they only have to send a
signal through my 325iC's canvas top, as opposed to the Blazer's roof)
but I'm no electronics expert and this sucks.


TIA,

Mike Kozitka
________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages)
**********

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