The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 389 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: 97 M3/4 - glug glug sound and fuse blowing FS: '98 BMW M3 2DR Coupe Re: 97 M3/4 - glug glug sound and fuse blowing Power steering issue in 1993 325i sedan Re: Power steering issue in 1993 325i sedan E30 temperature gauge and sender Re: E30 temperature gauge and sender Re: E30 temperature gauge and sender Re: E30 temperature gauge and sender <OT> Winter cars <FS> E36 Snow wheels/tires
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 20:11:26 -0500 From: "matthew c. mead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 97 M3/4 - glug glug sound and fuse blowing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've found two issues on a 97 M3/4. The first is engine related - when the car is running, it makes a glug glug sound from the center exhaust side of the engine. Upon stopping the engine a psssscht can be heard, much like something is depressurizing. Vacuum leak? Additionally, fuse 37 is blowing repeatedly. The car was in salt air in the outer banks for a week. I've replaced the fuse again and will see if it blows again. 37 appears to cover the headlight adjustment (?), right side light, right rear tail light, and instrument cluster lighting. Any ideas on either of these? THANKS! -matt -- matthew c. mead http://www.goof.com/~mmead/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 19:30:27 -0700 From: "Joe Elwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS: '98 BMW M3 2DR Coupe Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For sale - a well cared for E36 M3, located in Menlo Park CA. I know this car well - so feel confident recommending it. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------- '98 BMW M3 2DR Coupe, Silver w/Grey interior, 5sp man. 56Kmi. Sunroof, AC, Cruise, Trip Computer Premium Hardon Kardon 6CD Stereo w/AM/FM cassette. Front brake pads & rotors 1yr old; Michelin Pilot tires with good tread. Original owner, 56,975 miles. M-Contour wheels, exc. paint and interior. Never tracked. Completely stock. Always serviced at BMW. VIN: WBSBG9326WEY78333 Asking: $ 21,500 Contact Adam at: telephone: 408-505-8826 email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Pictures at: http://www.szollar.com/forsale/bmw.htm. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 20:41:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Peter Thoeming <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "matthew c. mead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 97 M3/4 - glug glug sound and fuse blowing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Can you be more specific? Any other symptoms such as these: Sluggish response? bad fuel eco? exhaust stinks of gasoline? perhaps you have a dead ignitor/plug... Pete --- "matthew c. mead" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I've found two issues on a 97 M3/4. The first is > engine related > - when the car is running, it makes a glug glug > sound from the > center exhaust side of the engine. Upon stopping > the engine a > psssscht can be heard, much like something is > depressurizing. > Vacuum leak? > > Additionally, fuse 37 is blowing repeatedly. The > car was in > salt air in the outer banks for a week. I've > replaced the fuse > again and will see if it blows again. 37 appears to > cover the > headlight adjustment (?), right side light, right > rear tail > light, and instrument cluster lighting. > > Any ideas on either of these? > > THANKS! > > > -matt > > -- > matthew c. mead > > http://www.goof.com/~mmead/ > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 20:36:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Peter Thoeming <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: uucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Power steering issue in 1993 325i sedan Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Recently, after hard braking/cornering in my 1993 325i sedan, I get some loud grunting sounds from turning the steering wheel with relatively small deflection from stationary. The sounds is accompanied by a vibration through the wheel. I also get this occasionally with normal driving, especially in the morning after just starting out with low-speed turning/driving. So, I checked the fluid and it was low. I siphoned out the old fluid and put in new Dexron III and with the cap off, turned lock to lock a few times. No change in level. Then I raised the front end and started the car and held the RPM at 2K and turned lock to lock 10X. No change in level. I lowered the car and capped the reservoir and then turned the wheel quickly lock to lock. This was followed by a squishing/squirting noise and a bunch of fluid shot onto the ground. 1. is this the "self-bleeding" function the under-useful Bentley manual mentions? 2. if not, I could not see from where the fluid came, but the hoses directly underneath the reservoir have always been a mess. Are those lines connected to the reservoir ever under pressure like the pump/rack lines and is it common for them to leak? 3. lastly, I hear a gurgling sound in the steering rack when I push the wheels by hand - is this a break in the bellows or normal? Thanks, Pete ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 23:46:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Power steering issue in 1993 325i sedan Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Leaky Pete says: > Recently, after hard braking/cornering in my 1993 > 325i > sedan, I get some loud grunting sounds from turning > the steering wheel with relatively small deflection > from stationary. > > The sounds is accompanied by a vibration through the > wheel. I also get this occasionally with normal > driving, especially in the morning after just > starting > out with low-speed turning/driving. Possibly unrelated, but usually when I first pull away from being parked in front of my house in the morning, I hear a very audible but muffled 'glug' sound, and can feel the glug in the clutch. It could possibly be the PS too, and the vibration just transfers through the engine/frame/etc somehow to the clutch pedal, but I don't quite know for sure. > So, I checked the fluid and it was low. I siphoned > out > the old fluid and put in new Dexron III and with the > cap off, turned lock to lock a few times. No change > in > level. Then I raised the front end and started the > car > and held the RPM at 2K and turned lock to lock 10X. > No > change in level. > > I lowered the car and capped the reservoir and then > turned the wheel quickly lock to lock. This was > followed by a squishing/squirting noise and a bunch > of > fluid shot onto the ground. > 1. is this the "self-bleeding" function the > under-useful Bentley manual mentions? Dunno, but it sounds a bit suspicious considering number 2. > 2. if not, I could not see from where the fluid > came, but the hoses directly underneath the reservoir > have always been a mess. Are those lines connected to > the reservoir ever under pressure like the pump/rack > lines and is it common for them to leak? > Mine are very messy too, and they are definitely leaking, but at the time I was going to have them changed I was a bit short on cash, so I opted to wait a while. I figured a couple months extra wasn't going to hurt anything. It is pretty common for the reservoir hoses to leak, as the clamps lose tention and the rubber hardens. I don't know if they're under high pressure, but I'm sure it's under some pressure, as the pump has to produce pressure to pump the fluid through the system effectively. > 3. lastly, I hear a gurgling sound in the steering > rack when I push the wheels by hand - is this a > break > in the bellows or normal? I actually don't know if it's normal or not, but mine does the same thing... not so much a 'gurgling' as a squishy/squirty sound. My bellows are dry however, so I guessed it might have just been air in the system. I have never fully changed the PS fluid, so that could probably be a large contributor to the noise. :-P > Thanks, > Pete Of no help, Brian '93 325 > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 23:54:17 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) Subject: E30 temperature gauge and sender Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Over the summer I had reports of my E30 325i blowing some black smoke on hard acceleration or shifts. I had noticed a slightly richer exhaust smell until the car warmed up as well. Now I notice that my temperature gauge which typically stabilized at the 12:00 position is more to the 11:45 position. I have not seen a check engine light at all so far. I am starting to suspect the beginings of a failing temperature sensor. I know that the i series engines have two sensors on the thermostat housing. Is the one that drives the gauge the same one the engine uses to adjust the fuel maps, or are they different sensors? I am considering pulling the sensor and checking it with a pan of water on the stove, a thermometer, and a VOM. Ideas? -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2004 23:54:15 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 temperature gauge and sender Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You don't say what year. On all years, the sensors for gauge and for DME are different. Later years, it's blue for DME and black for gauge. Thermostat? Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > I know that the i series engines have two sensors on the thermostat housing. > Is the one that drives the gauge the same one the engine uses to adjust the > fuel maps, or are they different sensors? > I am considering pulling the sensor and checking it with a pan of water on > the stove, a thermometer, and a VOM. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.771 / Virus Database: 518 - Release Date: 09/28/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 00:37:40 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) Subject: Re: E30 temperature gauge and sender Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From KMS - Brett Anderson > >You don't say what year. > Sorry... it is an 87. >On all years, the sensors for gauge and for DME are different. Later years, >it's blue for DME and black for gauge. Bentley wasn't real clear on this either. It looks like one sensor is a thermisistor and the other is a switch, but I got the impression that both fed signals to the DME. >Thermostat? Thermostat is new a year ago, but that doesn't mean it isn't up to no good. It isn't a major problem yet, but I figured I would start thinking on it now to get my brain around it. Winter is on the way and I hate working on things when it is cold enough to stick the wrench to your hand. Last year I did the external fuel pump in 30 degree weather in a puddle. Not doing that again. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 05:09:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmw list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 temperature gauge and sender Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Bentley wasn't real clear on this either. It looks like one sensor is >a thermisistor and the other is a switch, but I got the impression >that both fed signals to the DME. One is for the gauge (brown probably if your car is an i engine), the other (blue) is for the DME. Heck I would replace both and keep the old ones as spares. Of course do this with the engine cold, it'll minimize how much coolant comes out and of course you won't burn yourself. :-) Carlos. _______________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 17:46:23 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <OT> Winter cars Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For those in the soon to be "snow belt" who may be looking for a winter car this site may be useful: http://www.pueblo.gsa.gov/results.tpl?id1=9&startat=1&--woSECTIONSdatarq=9&--SECTIONSword=ww look toward the bottom for the Gov. Auction info. These are leased cars being auctioned. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2004 19:53:05 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <FS> E36 Snow wheels/tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Borbet type T 15x7 with Michelin Arctic Alpin tires. Tires have about 5 mm of tread on them. Wheels in excellent shape. $450 plus shipping Marc Plante E36 M3/4, 56k E36 325i, 220k [Gone] Vienna, VA ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages) **********
