The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 414 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: delrin control arm bushings for e36... Binding?
Re: <E36> oil leak question
Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(5 messages)
Re: <E36> oil leak question
Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 Lock Problems
Control Arm Bushing - Does it have to be centered??
ITGT Filter
Re: ITGT Filter
Metal Valve stems
Re: Metal Valve stems
Changing rear wheel bearing on E38 740iL
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 18:41:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: delrin control arm bushings for e36... Binding?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A question on Delrin front control arm bushings for an e36 (and it
> sounds like e30's are similar?)...
Yup.
> What's the real story?
>From those pics you posted, two were stock bushings, one was offset and
the other wasn't. A third picture was in there that looked like the
delrin (black) ones. If you have those then you won't have any metal
binding against anything as there is no metal with the delrin ones.
The delrin bushings should slide off the control arm fairly easily at
least compared to the stock ones, you won't destroy them. To get some
of the stubborn stock ones off I've actually had to burned them off.
Then I cut thru the bushing with a sawzall and once the outer metal
collapsed I smacked the bushing with a mallet and it came right off.
Both times I was replacing them with delrin ones so there was no need
for a press for me.
Carlos (tired after Mid-Ohio, had an excellent time even though I
didn't even drive. :-) )
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 18:43:00 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36> oil leak question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
lock down/tighten the oil pump sprocket nut.
check the motor mounts.
if tracked put in a baffled pan.
check the subframe for cracks.
if you're paranoid you could have the con-rod bearings replaced, but I'm
guessing that would be overkill, we replaced mine on my M3 race car when we
put in the baffled pan and the original ones looked and checked out fine on
a car with 70K really hard miles.
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 4:26 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [UUC] <E36> oil leak question
Gruppe,
Left my 92 325i (111K on the clock) with my independent tech this week
to do some PM and he found a leak in the oil pan gasket. I'm thinking
it's probably due to the 6 months it spent of mostly sitting in the
driveway with minimal driving (about once every 2 or 3 wks) while I was
in Australia on a temporary work assignment until April. Anyway he
quoted about $250 in labor to replace it due to having to remove part of
the subframe to get to the gasket, so I'm thinking if it costs that much
to get into that area and I'm planning on keeping the car, I should
probably replace whatever else in the same area as long as he's in
there. Anyone have any suggestions on parts that would be accessible
that if it was your car, you'd go ahead and do?
Thanks in advance,
Phil
92 E36/M50
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2004 20:02:13 -0800
From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(5 messages)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
"From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: <E30> engine running problem
I've been chasing an E30 engine issue for a while now and i'm looking
for a clue or two. Car is an '89 325iX"
Try an new fuel pressure regulator and make sure the vacuum hose connection
is intact. I'd put new vacuum hoses on anything this old in any case.
That's my guess for the day.
Mike Holbrook
Spring Valley, CA
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 07:44:08 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E36> oil leak question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
on 10/31/04 9:20 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Left my 92 325i (111K on the clock) with my independent tech this week
> to do some PM and he found a leak in the oil pan gasket. I'm thinking
> it's probably due to the 6 months it spent of mostly sitting in the
> driveway with minimal driving (about once every 2 or 3 wks) while I was
> in Australia on a temporary work assignment until April. Anyway he
> quoted about $250 in labor to replace it due to having to remove part of
> the subframe to get to the gasket, so I'm thinking if it costs that much
> to get into that area and I'm planning on keeping the car, I should
> probably replace whatever else in the same area as long as he's in
> there. Anyone have any suggestions on parts that would be accessible
> that if it was your car, you'd go ahead and do?
Replacing the oil pan gasket is a bit time consuming, since you have to drop
the front crossmember and suspension.
One thing that comes to mind is to secure the oil pump drive sprocket
retaining nut, which is known to come loose and even fall off. Although I've
only heard of this happening to tracked cars, it costs nothing extra to fix
once the pan is off. Apply some high-temp Loctite to the threads, and/or use
a punch to peen them - I did both.
Another thing is the engine mounts, since it's necessary to undo them anyway
to drop the front crossmember. When I did the oil pan I found one broken
mount. Although my car is tracked regularly and so stresses the mounts more,
yours is a lot older. They're not all that expensive (about $100 the pair
for my M3), so you might consider having them renewed.
Neil
96 M3
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 12:08:16 -0600
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Bill P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 Lock Problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
"Bill P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Today I noticed that the passenger door will not lock when you lock
> car from driver side (using the key). It will work if you use the key
> on passenger side,
Bill,
I assume we are talking about an E36 2-door since you had cross posted to
the E36M3 list and did not identify the passenger door as neither front
nor rear.
If so, replace the passenger side lock actuator. About $80 from the dealer
the last time I looked. Bentley has a section on this procedure.
It is a very common failure point. 3 out of 4 lock actuators had failed on
my wife's E36. Luckily, two went out under warranty.
> but it is very hard/rough to turn the key. The passenger side door
> handle also feels notchy and rough. Also noticed that you cannot
> turn the key at all in the trunk lock.
I was going to suggest lubing the door lock and/or adjusting the strike
plate. If you having the difficulty with all the locks, including the
trunk, I would suspect the key. It could be bent or damaged with age. I
had that problem on my ex-E30's keys, but the car was 10+ years old and
had 200+K miles.
> The driver side door locking mechanism (handle and locking unit)
> has been replaced not to long ago.
What was wrong with them?
Not that it will effect the passenger side, but it could give you a clue.
HTH,
alex f
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 10:34:08 -0800 (PST)
From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Control Arm Bushing - Does it have to be centered??
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
This weekend I replaced the control arms and bushings
on my 328i (standard bushings, not offset). I don't
have access to (and couldn't find anyone with) a
hydraulic press. Using my bench vice, I pushed the
bushing into the control arm bracket.
My question is, is it imperative that the bushing be
centered on bracket? The bushing is about 2 mm wider
than the bracket. I can't push it any further with my
bench vice because it is flush on the other side.
The car is not tracked at all.
Thanks,
Paul
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> "Bill P" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Today I noticed that the passenger door will not
> lock when you lock
> > car from driver side (using the key). It will work
> if you use the key
> > on passenger side,
>
> Bill,
> I assume we are talking about an E36 2-door since
> you had cross posted to
> the E36M3 list and did not identify the passenger
> door as neither front
> nor rear.
> If so, replace the passenger side lock actuator.
> About $80 from the dealer
> the last time I looked. Bentley has a section on
> this procedure.
> It is a very common failure point. 3 out of 4 lock
> actuators had failed on
> my wife's E36. Luckily, two went out under warranty.
>
>
> > but it is very hard/rough to turn the key. The
> passenger side door
> > handle also feels notchy and rough. Also noticed
> that you cannot
> > turn the key at all in the trunk lock.
>
> I was going to suggest lubing the door lock and/or
> adjusting the strike
> plate. If you having the difficulty with all the
> locks, including the
> trunk, I would suspect the key. It could be bent or
> damaged with age. I
> had that problem on my ex-E30's keys, but the car
> was 10+ years old and
> had 200+K miles.
>
> > The driver side door locking mechanism (handle and
> locking unit)
> > has been replaced not to long ago.
>
> What was wrong with them?
> Not that it will effect the passenger side, but it
> could give you a clue.
>
> HTH,
> alex f
>
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 14:20:20 -0500
From: "carl sewell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMWUUCDIGEST \(E-mail\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: ITGT Filter
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Anybody know if there is an ITG air filter for an E46 330iPP/
many thanks
Carl
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 11:24:09 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ITGT Filter
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/itg_filters.html
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of carl sewell
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 11:20 AM
To: BMWUUCDIGEST (E-mail)
Subject: [UUC] ITGT Filter
Anybody know if there is an ITG air filter for an E46 330iPP/
many thanks
Carl
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 14:08:42 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Metal Valve stems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Anyone know of a good source for the o-ring type metal tire valve's?
-Kevin
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 19:51:20 -0600
From: "Thomas G. Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Metal Valve stems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Longacre racing has them
www.longacreracing.com
Tom
At 04:08 PM 11/1/2004, you wrote:
>Anyone know of a good source for the o-ring type metal tire valve's?
>
>-Kevin
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 18:41:03 -0500
From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Changing rear wheel bearing on E38 740iL
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Howdy, all. The left rear wheel bearing on my 1995 740iL (E38), with 133k
miles, is starting to go. Noise is definitely getting louder. A couple of
questions:
1. Is this a Do-it-yourself procedure (I can change oil, change pads and
rotors, and maybe one or two other things, but not much beyond that)?
2. If it's not DYI, how long should it reasonably take for a good BMW shop
to complete (and how much)?
3. What would be a reasonable price for this job?
Thanks in advance!
Vty,
--Dennis
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages)
**********
