The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 293 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: E34 535 trans/shifter Problems
Re: E36 oil distr. block was Re: Oil Leak 325e
Re: mounting question
right turn crunching
Re: E34 535 trans/shifter Problems
Re: E34 535 trans/shifter Problems
Re: [E30] water pump?
Battery drain problem <E46>
Re: Mark D'Sylva (corrected info)
E34 540 Sport for sale
Re: E34 540 Sport for sale
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 12:10:39 -0400
From: "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E34 535 trans/shifter Problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Karl writes
<Also the shift action sucks ..--- It's like the shift was mounted backwards as <2 and
4 are straight up and 1, 3, and 5 are very far forward. Anyone have <eexperience with
these short shifters, and problems?
Karl,
It sounds like on the shift action that the shifter was installed backwards.
Yes it's possible as I did it on my M3 when first installing a UUC Shifter. It makes
for the wierd locations in gear, and some really tough shifting. Might also account
for the popping out symptom you describe.
Steve Stoner
97 M3 correctly installed UUC shifter (the second time)
_________________________________________________________________________
Live, laugh, and chat with friends about BMWs, Porsches, Jaguars and the new MINI
at The World's Largest Auto Enthusiast Site
http://www.roadfly.org/
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 09:41:15 -0700
From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 oil distr. block was Re: Oil Leak 325e
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks Ben,
Comments below:
ben keyes wrote:
>Kurt Zimmerman wrote:
>
>
>
>>Can you tap the euro E36 part for an oil pressure sender? I have my
>>E30 oil cooler. It just needs some new connectors brazed on, then maybe
>>some aeroquip or similar lines and a distribution block. It would be
>>nice to put the sender there also...
>>
>>
>
>the euro filter housing has a connection for the factory under-tach
>oil temp gauge (3.0l cars, 3.2l cars w/o SMG-I only, MZ3's and
>S54's have a plug instead) and the normal pressure switch for the
>idiot light. they of course have the oil cooler connections which you're
>looking for. If you used the factory temp location for a pressure
>gauge on the housing you'd just have to get temp somewhere else,
>perhaps the in-pan location which Marco uses & Neil used.
>
>
I don't have an oil temp gauge on the E30 cluster, so unless I decide to
put one in its not a problem.
>not sure whether they changed the style of connection between
>the cooler & the engine from an E30 to the S50, but if they
>didn't it would be a matter of re-bending the tubes to get them
>to the right location. otherwise you'd need to do do the changes
>you suggested above.
>
>
Since the ports on an M50 are opposite an M20 I won't have enough tubing
for one side or the other even if I bend the tubing. Probably best to
cut off the tubes and braze on new connectors.
>dealer list for the filter housing has dropped from $450-$500 down
>to ~$350, so you can whatever CCA/friend of the parts guy/racer/etc
>discount off that to get an idea of a street price.
>
>
Hmm. I wonder if a certain large mammal motorsports can help? :-)
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 13:46:34 -0500
From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: mounting question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks, Dennis.
It seemed a bit odd to me, too. It was the dealer tech who told me that the
repeated remounts might cause a problem.
Regarding the M5 wheels, yes, it's a known problem. The "shadow chrome" is a
three step powdercoat process. Black base with a *very* thin coat of silver,
then clearcoated. The silver coat is very delicate. I don't have pics, but
what happens is the black base coat starts to show through -- either as
little specks or blotches. It can look a bit like brake dust, but doesn't
wash away, and is clearly not on the surface. Caustic cleansers are said to
be a common culprit, but not in my case, as I use only the same mild shampoo
that I use on the paint (Pinnacle or Meguiar's). The car is handwashed
weekly (and only by me). The finish is virtually impossible to duplicate, so
if BMWNA honors a warranty claim (and I think this has been a bit variable),
then it's generally by replacing the wheel(s). Frankly, I was a bit
surprised that BMW decided to replace my wheels, but I didn't argue with
them :) In any case, I suspect that I'll be dealing with the same issue in
a few years, as I don't think BMW has changed the finishing process and
there's nothing for me to change as far as caring for them goes. Next time
around, I'll be out of warranty (mine's also an '01, with 18K mi), and I'll
probably just polish and clearcoat or powdercoat them in a solid color, or
maybe I'll spring for some BBS wheels.
Cheers,
Scott
>I would not think it would hurt anything if done properly - I have had race
>tires (really stiff sidewalls) re-mounted many times including turned
>around w/o a problem. Plus - every flat now requires a remount to patch
>from the inside to fix it properly.
>
>All that said, is this a known issue with M5 wheels? My 2001 M5 has 13k or
>so on it and I might want to check the wheels for this problem while I am
>still under the base warranty. Got pix?
>
>Thanks! Dennis 01 M5 silver/black
>
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 14:30:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: right turn crunching
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi All,
For a reminder, I was recently asking about ride
height on my E36, and had posted pictures. A list
member noticed the difference in wheels on the rear of
my car, and mentioned possible differential problems
as a result of it. I was using the spare wheel on the
left (driver's) side, and the original wheel on the
passenger side. Because I have wider tires on the
other (stock) wheels, it was mentioned that there is a
difference in sidewall height and thus total wheel
height between the spare and the stock wheel. I was
driving for a week or two like that before I was told
that this would cause problems.
I swapped the front wheel to the rear and put the
spare on the front, but now I am getting crunching
noises from the rear end when I make right turns.
Undoubtedly this is from driving for those two weeks
like that, but I am wondering if it makes sense that
it happens ONLY when I am making right turns. It is a
lot worse when I make a right turn over or onto a
bumpy segment of road (like a gutter or ragged
asphalt). I assume this is so because the limited
slip gets engaged easier due to the lack of traction,
but I am not positive. In any case, does this make
sense to anyone else?
TIA,
Brian
93 325i
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 17:33:41 -0700
From: "JS Nord" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "karl j Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E34 535 trans/shifter Problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Some usual suspects to check include:
- rear tranny mounts
- tranny guibo
- forward shifter arm support bracket (aka "the bitch clip")
On a less happy note, whining, shifter play, and shift arm vibrations
suggest a worn tranny. You didn't mention what fluid you put in it.
Redline ATF is often recommended but on high mileage units you might try
Redline MTL or even MT-90 to help quiet the unit.
Jeff
90 535i
----- Original Message -----
From: "karl j Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 8:43 AM
Subject: [UUC] E34 535 trans/shifter Problems
> Sorry for the cross post
>
> However, I wanted to get as much collective knowledge as possible.
>
> The trans on my newly aquired 91 535 with 135k miles whines. The noise is
in
> every gear under power. Off throttle you generally can not hear the noise.
You
> can also hear the pitch of the noise change as you shift gears. I changed
the
> trans fluid which was very low and very dirty. There were also some metal
> shavings on the magnetic plug. Is this trans in need of rebuild or are we
> talking input of pilot bearing?
>
> The shifter: It is either a Bav auto or Dinan, the shifter bushings are
> obviously worn. Lots of play. Another problem is that it seems to pop out
and
> vibrate, then pop back in again. You can feel it pop in your hand(very
> annoying noise) Also the shift action sucks and the shift position in the
car
> is terrible. It's like the shift was mounted backwards as 2 and 4 are
straight
> up and 1, 3, and 5 are very far forward. Anyone have experience with these
> short shifters, and problems?
>
> If this is normal shifting for those shifters I am either going back to a
> stock unit or a UUC shifter.
>
>
> TIA
>
> Karl
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
>
> Live, laugh, and chat with friends about BMWs, Porsches, Jaguars and the
new MINI
> at The World's Largest Auto Enthusiast Site
> http://www.roadfly.org/
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 07:54:09 -0400
From: "karl j Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E34 535 trans/shifter Problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
In reply to Steve and JS,
I responded privately accidentally to the both of them.
I replaced the trans fluid with Redline MTL.
Last night I tuned the shifter around, and the position is better than where
it was was.
I will be replacing the trans mounts and flex disk in the near future, but
have doubt that they will cure the whine.
Thanks
Karl
On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 17:33:41 -0700
"JS Nord" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Some usual suspects to check include:
>
>- rear tranny mounts
>- tranny guibo
>- forward shifter arm support bracket (aka "the bitch clip")
>
>On a less happy note, whining, shifter play, and shift arm vibrations
>suggest a worn tranny. You didn't mention what fluid you put in it.
>Redline ATF is often recommended but on high mileage units you might try
>Redline MTL or even MT-90 to help quiet the unit.
>
>Jeff
>90 535i
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "karl j Rentler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 8:43 AM
>Subject: [UUC] E34 535 trans/shifter Problems
>
>
>> Sorry for the cross post
>>
>> However, I wanted to get as much collective knowledge as possible.
>>
>> The trans on my newly aquired 91 535 with 135k miles whines. The noise is
>in
>> every gear under power. Off throttle you generally can not hear the noise.
>You
>> can also hear the pitch of the noise change as you shift gears. I changed
>the
>> trans fluid which was very low and very dirty. There were also some metal
>> shavings on the magnetic plug. Is this trans in need of rebuild or are we
>> talking input of pilot bearing?
>>
>> The shifter: It is either a Bav auto or Dinan, the shifter bushings are
>> obviously worn. Lots of play. Another problem is that it seems to pop out
>and
>> vibrate, then pop back in again. You can feel it pop in your hand(very
>> annoying noise) Also the shift action sucks and the shift position in the
>car
>> is terrible. It's like the shift was mounted backwards as 2 and 4 are
>straight
>> up and 1, 3, and 5 are very far forward. Anyone have experience with these
>> short shifters, and problems?
>>
>> If this is normal shifting for those shifters I am either going back to a
>> stock unit or a UUC shifter.
>>
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Karl
>>
>>
>> _________________________________________________________________________
>>
>> Live, laugh, and chat with friends about BMWs, Porsches, Jaguars and the
>new MINI
>> at The World's Largest Auto Enthusiast Site
>> http://www.roadfly.org/
>> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________________
>> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>>
>> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>>
_________________________________________________________________________
Live, laugh, and chat with friends about BMWs, Porsches, Jaguars and the new MINI
at The World's Largest Auto Enthusiast Site
http://www.roadfly.org/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2004 21:13:03 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [E30] water pump?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brett writes:
If you relieve tension on the timing belt, you MUST replace it.
You can remove the water pump without removing tension on the belt, it's
just a little awkward putting the new one in, as the belt tensioner spring
is mounted to the pump, and you have to compress it while placing the pump,
all the time, trying not to damage the pump gasket.
Brett Anderson
KMS
Brett,
Duly noted and thanks, I ASSume it would be easier to do the T belt, tensior
and water pump at the same time then, even if the T Belt is only a year or so
old. Cheap insurance.
What about gasket sealer around the water pump gasket? I hear it may be
necessary. And I guess i need a very low value torque wrench instead of my Crapsman
for the bolts.
I'll buy some new E30 door brake reinforcements from ya as a thank you : )
Much nicer looking than my huge washers.
TIA,
Jim Laing
bad bad Mech.
84 318i Evo II
86 325es
87 325
DirtyE30(s)
You need a bimmer. AS we tell you. Dont even think about the "other" mobile
units.
With regards - Ulf the Prophet 02/24/2004
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2004 21:50:45 -0700
From: "Marvin Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Battery drain problem <E46>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Recently I had a problem with the battery going dead on my 2003 330i after
it was not driven for 3 days. I put an ammeter in series with the battery
and measured a current drain around 1 amp but 50 mA a few days later.
I asked a Weatherford BMW service advisor. He put the key into a reader by
his computer and could read out the car serial number. He then checked for
any recalls, and found that there is a software problem. If, during one
operation of the car, the heat, vent and AC controls are adjusted 2 or more
times, there will be a current drain of 800 mA when the car is turned off.
I will have to bring it in for a software update.
Marvin
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 06:43:07 -0400
From: "Mark D'Sylva" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mark D'Sylva (corrected info)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 14:15:55 -0400
From: Chris Skene <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Mark D'Sylva
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Does anyone have contact info for chip tuner Mark da Silva?
>
>TIA,
>
>Scott Miller
>GGC BMW CCA
Mark D'Sylva
D'Sylva Technology
11 Cavell Ave
Toronto, ON
M4K 1L5
email - see CONTACTS page of site below (different from this reply-to
address)
cell: - number available on my voicemail greeting
web - http://www.dsylva-tech.ca/
>He's a neighbor of mine and offered me a chip for my recently
>acquired '87 325 with the ETA engine. It already had a Conforti chip
>in it. He thought that would be fine. My rev. limiter kicks in
>somewhere in the middle of the MPG gauge on the tach. I won't be
>going there often.
--
>Chris Skene
>For narration and voice-over services, check <http://chris.skene.org>
Hello Chris,
I have edited the contact info above as the email address you provided was
an old one.
Regarding the chip offer, it would be interesing to see how mine compares to
the one you have now.
Mark
---
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 06:46:07 -0400
From: "Jeff Donnelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E34 540 Sport for sale
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sorry for the spam but the car bug has bitten again and it is time to sell
my 540
The car is a 1995 540 Calypso red/tan leather ,6-speed 68k miles. It is in
great shape and has had lot of work done to it. I have always run Mobile 1
in the engine and Redline in the diff and tyranny. It is a stroked and
sleeved block (rods and pistons) with schrick cams done by Rick Stormer.
The driveline includes a lightened flywheel from Turner and a quaife with
lower gears by Blanton. Sachs sport suspension with RD and Ground control.
Pretty much everything is new in the car. There is a complete list and
photos on the following link www.bewired.com/bmw/
I am asking $22.5 for everything, it is located 45 minutes south of Boston.
Thanks Jeff Donnelly 781-826-4499
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2004 08:06:44 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E34 540 Sport for sale
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
That Alpina gauge kit is just *so* cool!
Ed
Jeff Donnelly wrote:
>There is a complete list and
>photos on the following link www.bewired.com/bmw/
>
>I am asking $22.5 for everything, it is located 45 minutes south of Boston.
>Thanks Jeff Donnelly 781-826-4499
>
>
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(11 messages)
**********
