The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 132 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Set of NEW Bilsteins for E31 850i on ebay Euro M3 (E30) control unit for sale on ebay.de Re: [bmwuucdigest] Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Re: [E36] Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? Re: [E36] M3 Tires Rubbing Optima Battery Install the help is great here: was re: [uuc] help with belts Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? Re: Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? BMW Tow Hooks Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? E34 Suspension Upgrade
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 10:44:38 +0000 From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Set of NEW Bilsteins for E31 850i on ebay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As usual, no one I know or am tied to financially. Go to auction 2473096083 and check with the seller in Heilbronn (yes Germany). Could be a good deal for someone, even with the postage. Good luck, Gregory in Geneva _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:17:30 +0000 From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Euro M3 (E30) control unit for sale on ebay.de Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A few Euro M3 (E30) control units for sale on ebay.de. No one I know, just passing along handy info. 2471910118 2471673051 2470879782 Have at it !! Gregory in Geneva _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 08:08:46 -0500 From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yeouch. Take a deep breath and maybe one of those things you need (other than the drive) and make sure you haven't routed the belt the wrong way. Like over some pulley that it was supposed to go under. I jest did a couple of these, it should just go right on without removing anything. Dave > > Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 02:15:59 -0700 > From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, > "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? > > I rotated the tensioner, I pushed the tension roller with an allen > wrench, loosened the water pump pulley, even took the roller tensioner > and bolt out and still the belt is too tight to go back on. I didn't > put this belt on myself, but have changed the accessory belt on other > E36 myself, and something just isn't right here and I've got scuffed >>>much rant snippage here<< > More frustrated than any BMW had done to me in about a decade, > > Barry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 09:28:33 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ken wrote: >First DE this coming weekend (Road America) in the new car. I'll be taking it real easy--5th time at this track but I'm sure it will feel really different: '95 318i to '04 M3/SMG! Yes, I'll probably get another set of Schroth's but haven't decided yet. And yes I upgraded the pads and fluid first--I'm more worried about upgrading my brain :-). ________________ How to get the seatbelts really tight? Try this. Slide the seat all the way back. Fasten the belt. Lock the inertia reel. Now use the power seat adjustment to slide the seat forward. You should be "trapped" in the stock 3-point belt really, really tight. I use this trick all the time. vty, --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 19:45:47 -0700 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dennis, Interesting. How do you lock the inertia wheel? John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 6:28 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] <all><e46>Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? > Ken wrote: > > >First DE this coming weekend (Road America) in the new car. I'll be > taking it real easy--5th time at this track but I'm sure it will feel > really different: '95 318i to '04 M3/SMG! Yes, I'll probably get > another set of Schroth's but haven't decided yet. And yes I upgraded > the pads and fluid first--I'm more worried about upgrading my brain :-). > ________________ > > How to get the seatbelts really tight? Try this. Slide the seat all the > way back. Fasten the belt. Lock the inertia reel. Now use the power seat > adjustment to slide the seat forward. You should be "trapped" in the stock > 3-point belt really, really tight. I use this trick all the time. > > vty, > > --Dennis > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 08:56:01 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [E36] Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 4/11/04 12:20 AM, jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? I rotated the tensioner, I > pushed the tension roller with an allen wrench Since I just happen to have done this myself yesterday as part of a much lengthier job (install baffled oil pan, new tie rods, reinforced subframe, etc.). You need to really force the spring loaded tensioner pulley to get enough slack. Use an 8mm allen socket on a 12" or longer ratchet handle to get enough leverage. I worked from underneath (shroud was off) slipping the belt over the power steering pump last. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 08:58:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [E36] M3 Tires Rubbing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 4/11/04 12:20 AM, Jay Frankel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Thank you Dave. There seems to be a consensus that the PP S-03's can > cause rubbing. I had already talked with my body shop before I queried > the group and this confirms what I though. I will bring the car in for > a fender a roll. On my car the rubbing is fairly frequent if there is > more than just me in the car. It only rubs on fairly big bumps when > driving solo. I would be concerned about tire damage if I do nothing. Don't forget to adjust the rear camber to max negative using the eccentric bolt at the other end of the lower control arm. This has the side effect of providing additional fender clearance. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:35:28 -0400 From: Martin Bullen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Optima Battery Install Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> With the battery on my Z3 conking out over the winter (after 7 years, but only 22k miles) I picked up an Optima 34R (what used to be the "orange top", with reversed terminals) to put into the M3, and transferred the group 48 I'd put into the M a couple of years ago over to the Z3. It was actually pretty easy. I basically followed the principles that Shawn Fogg used to put an Optima into a Z3, which he outlines on his website: http://www.ackthud.net/shawnfogg/optima.html All I had to do was the same modication he outlines to the hold down clamp. I also found that if I turned the clamp over, I didn't need the spacer nuts Shawn mentions. The only other trick to the installation was that the cables were only just long enough. I put them in place before I snugged the battery down. Oh, and I used a battery saver, which plugs a 9v battery into the cigarette lighter, to save the radio presets/code/window initialisation, etc. The only (minor) drawback is that the tray over the battery doesn't sit quite flush, but it's not noticeable. If I'd routed the battery handle under the wires it might not even be a problem. So, no parts to buy, except the battery itself, it removes some weight from the car, is maintenance-free (and sealed, so no vent hose), and should prevent any corrosion issues caused a leaking battery. Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 14:05:22 -0700 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: the help is great here: was re: [uuc] help with belts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> the help is great here: was re: [uuc] help with belts Not that its nice to hear that other have just gone through the same headaches as me at the same time, but its great the immediate helpful responses and range of experience on this digest. Thanks, Barry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 17:18:54 -0600 From: "Dave and Peg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Ken & Marje'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Any tricks for getting the stock seatbelts REALLY tight? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I drove my students 03 M3 at Road America last year for the first couple of laps to see how it handled, and the standard method for locking the belts on a BMW worked for me. First, put the seatback down a good bit, or slide the seat back (I assume that you have the power seats). I buckled, pulled the tension in on the lap belt and held it really tight with my right hand while I jerked the shoulder adjustment hard to lock it. Then adjusted the seat forward to tighten it on my shoulder. When you can't breathe any longer, it is tight enough. It is the same way I did it in my E36 M3 until I put the harnesses in. Dave Miller 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 17:27:42 -0600 From: "Dave and Peg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'jkerouac'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Barry, Sounds like you have tried everything. It is a good thing you are not near a tall building or you might jump. The only suggestion that I have is to make sure that the belt is the correct one and is routed correctly. If you don't have the diagram for routing, I could send it to you. I usually work from the bottom, route the belt over all the pulleys except the crank pulley. Then put the allen in the tensioner and work the belt around the bottom pulley. This is usually about a 1 minute job. My guess is wrong size belt, or mis-routed over the pulleys. Dave Miller 95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:09:37 -0400 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Yelp: how do I get the [bleeping] belt back on? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You don't need to loosen anything. You just need to build up enough force to pivot the tensioner pulley on it's off-center bolt. It takes a fair amount of force to get the pulley to move enough to get the belt on, but once you get the leverage it'll move a lot. I used my 7 mm allen key, then put my longest closed end wrench on the end of it to get leverage(though I think I did that on the AC belt). You can also use a 7 mm allen socket and a long-handled ratchet handle (I think it's 7 mm). I got a foot long 3/8" drive handle with a hinged head at AutoZone to do my emergency repair. Good reach to do the job. Then check the diagrams in Bentley to figure out which way you need to twist the key to get it to work. My Bentley is out in the garage and I'm too tired to go double check it. Think the directions are under maintenance. Marc Plante E36 325i, 220k (For Sale?) E36 M3/4, 50k '02 Audi Allroad Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 21:52:37 -0400 From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: BMW Tow Hooks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does anyone know a source of cheap BMW tow hooks? I'd like to get a second one to keep in the traveling toolkit. The dealer wants like $22 for one, which seems outrageous for a big eye-bolt. However, judging by the thread type, I doubt I'd be able to make one from parts found at Home Depot. Yea, yea, yea....it's only $18 after discount....but I end up buying lots of lots of parts there and I hate to spend $$s for something so simple. Regards, Steve 2004 330i ZHP ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 22:04:20 -0400 From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Why I'm thinking about it, what's the common consensus on using Anti-Seize on Spark Plug Threads? I've never used it before, but saw someone recommend it at one point (maybe here on this list). I change my own plugs every year (my BMW) or two years (wife's Volvo), and don't remember ever having trouble getting them in/out, but want to make sure I'm not missing something important. Seems like if you use the anti-seize, you'd need to torque the plugs to a different spec (dry torque vs. wet torque, or something like that). Regards, Steve '04 330i ZHP (his) '00 323i (was his) '98 Volvo V70XC (hers) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 07:20:39 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E34 Suspension Upgrade Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jon (in "pothole heaven", Boston, MA) wrote: > Looking to upgrade suspension on my E34, to a slightly > lower ride height and commensurate firmness. Not too > low or harsh, this is my daily driver. I've been > thinking of a Sachs Sporting Kit but Bekkers doesn't > list it on their website. Trying to avoid the prices > on the Dinan stuff. Any recent advice or experience? I've had two E34s, a 1989 535i and a 1991 M5. The 535i was 100% stock until I replaced the shocks with Bilstein HDs and the M5 had the full Dinan Stage III set up with Koni shocks (the previous owner paid for the Dinan suspension). I may be getting old, but I will never have a daily driver with stiff springs or sport shocks again (and I don't live in "pothole heaven")... I think the perfect set up for a daily driver E34 is to keep the suspension stock and just upgrade to a slightly firmer shock (Bilstein, Boge, etc.) and keep your high quality tires inflated at a few psi above what the factory recommends. If you have a few extra $ the M5 throwing star rims look great on any 535i and you will have a better selection of good tires in the 17" size. Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
