The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 396 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
<E36 2-door> Window motor (somewhat OT, long)
Differential Oil
<OT> tidy tidbit
<E30> Stroker Motor
FS: 17" Hakka All-Seasons
<E30> Floormats
Re: E34 M30 Error Code 1222
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2004 12:23:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <E36 2-door> Window motor (somewhat OT, long)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
The passenger side front window motor on my 94 325ic failed recently, so I pulled it
out to see if I could revive it. Evidently fine German engineering doesn't embrace
concepts like "Bolt the motor to the regulator from the inboard side so R&R consists
of removing and replacing 3 fasteners" instead opting for "Step 1 Remove the glass,
Step 2 Remove the regulator, Step 3 Unbolt the motor from the regulator." I was also
amused that the procedure to remove the regulator as described by Bentley requires
placing the window in about half a dozen positions to get at all the fasteners which
is useful only to someone replacing a properly functioning motor for entertainment.
Anyway, I managed to get the motor out and took it apart. I freed up the gear, which
was stuck, and reassembled it. Plugged it in and voila! the motor runs. Reassembled
everything and discovered much to my dismay that the polarity is now reversed -
pressing the up switch makes the window go down and vice v!
ersa. Of course this also screws up the window drop feature (don't get me started on
the fine German engineering behind that!) both when opening the door and when lowering
the soft top.
So here's my question: What did I do to cause this? There are only 3 basic parts to
the motor. 1) the armature, 2) the brush assembly, and 3) the case with the permanent
magnets. All of the information I can find on permanent magnet DC motors says only
that reversing the flow of current to the armature reverses the direction of rotation.
The electrical connectors to the motor and switch are keyed so it's not possible to
plug them in the wrong way. I've found no mention of how the arrangement of the
physical components affects polarity. The armature can only go in one way. Would
rotating the case (and therefore the magnetic poles) 180 degrees relative to the brush
assembly reverse the polarity? Of course the easy answer is to cut the wires to the
motor and swap them, but I'm assuming the motor is going to die completely at some
point and I'd have to switch them back etc. Besides, I'd like to understand how this
works.
Freshman physics was a long time ago, so I'd appreciate if if anyone with more current
(no pun intended)engineering skills could shed some light on this.
Thanks,
Brian
'94 325ic
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2004 13:56:45 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Differential Oil
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Ramon at Bavarian Motorsports clued me in as to the blue-green oil in the
LS diff of the E30 parts car.... it's Swepco. I bought some to replace the
drained oil.
-Kevin
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2004 15:04:56 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <OT> tidy tidbit
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
If next time you're launching Adobe's reader watch the scroll at the bottom
of the Adobe window. None other than our Steve Albrecht is listed in the
credits.
-Kevin
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2004 17:46:21 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <E30> Stroker Motor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
My son and I are exploring some directions on getting more power from the
M20 motor. Two questions come to mind if we go the stroked motor route.
1. Does the cat have to be sized up or can it handle the flow from a motor
with more capacity? The car needs to pass Calif. smog testing or it becomes
a pain in the pa-tu-ty to get it registered.
2. Does the motor remain inherently "balanced". That is to say, do the
harmonics remain in the same relative positions such that the harmonic
balancer stays the same?
Tanks ladies and gents.
-Kevin
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:05:59 -0000
From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "M-Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: FS: 17" Hakka All-Seasons
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Helping a friend sell his Hakka's, 225/45-17. See:
http://home.att.net/~fluhar/tires2.htm
Also, my 17" winter wheels/tires are still available.
http://home.att.net/~fluhar/tires.htm
Bob Fluharty
87 325is/3.0
Cincinnati
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:11:02 -0500
From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: <E30> Floormats
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi all, I need to buy a set of mats. Anyone done the research lately to
find the best deals? Anyone got a set they want to sell (black or tan)?
Any aftermarket mats worthy of consideration?
Regards,
Paul Craven
93 325ic with naked carpets and dirty Kansas winter coming
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 10:31:43 -0500
From: "Robert Blakeney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E34 M30 Error Code 1222
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks for the advice on this problem. I did indeed remove water from the O2
connector at the engine on the driver's side. Cleaned it out and have not
had a Check Engine light in two days. Need to get an inspection sticker this
week, so the exhaust analysis results should be interesting. I can share
these offline with anyone that's curious. Remember, this is an O2 sensor
with 70k miles on it.
Interesting reading on O2 sensor states:
<http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/june/Tech2tech.htm>
Ciao,
Robert
'90 535i -- 154,000 miles
Love this big lump of an engine
Original 4HP22 (!) as well
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