The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 645 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: <WTB> MAF sensor or complete MAF for 96-99 328, //M3, or 528 E34 540 idle problems continue Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Re: E34 540 idle problems continue E39 sticky 5th gear
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 00:05:29 -0800 From: "b barry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Uucdigest <[email protected]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <WTB> MAF sensor or complete MAF for 96-99 328, //M3, or 528 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have you replaced your stock MAF with a euro or 540 one? Parting an S52 out? <WTB> MAF sensor or complete MAF for 96-99 328, //M3, or 528 Needed, not just wanted, as one of the two sensor filaments on mine has disintegrated, causing an unhappy engine on cold starts, a few missing MPG, several fault codes, and resultant unhappy driver. pls reply privately. tia, Barry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:21:49 -0500 From: "Doug Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: E34 540 idle problems continue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I had some erratic idle problems lately and some issues where the car would stall when moved into reverse (automatic). Then the other day, it really wouldn't idle and threw a CEL. Code was 1215 (MAF). I checked the MAF and the intake for leaks. Found the intake seemed to be a bit off, tightened it and couldn't find any other obvious leaks. Cleared the code, started it and it still wouldn't idle. It would start okay, but as the idle dropped down to the 700-600 range it would get rough, drop further and die. It can be kept alive with the throttle at about 1000rpm. I tried swapping out the MAF (had an old one that I had been told was good), but when I started it, it immediately throws the CEL with 1215, so I assume it is bad. I've pulled and cleaned the ICV. It moves easily (too easy?) like it is spring loaded to partially open. It "buzzes" at idle, and has the resistance that Bentley specs. When I check it with the ignition on, it moves to a partially open position. If I try to move it to full open, it moves easy and kind of buzzes when it gets to full open, but when I let go, it kind of bounces back to position. It doesn't seem to be "pushing hard", but I have no idea what it should feel like. I checked the TPS as well, which shows from 1.2k Ohm to 3.7k Ohm (Bentley says "approx" 1k - 4k). The resistance changes smoothly as I move the throttle. Are there any other tests I should be doing? I don't want to just replace the MAF and ICV as a guess, since they both seem to be $300 parts each. My local shop is closed today and tomorrow, and I am supposed to start a new job on Wednesday, so I'm stuck unless I can figure this out. Any clues or suggestions are welcome. Thanks! Doug 94 540iA - 170k miles and suddenly sick. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:26:35 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Doug Foster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> When was the intake last re-sealed? Brett Anderson KMS Doug Foster wrote: > Then the other day, it really wouldn't idle and threw a CEL. Code was 1215 > (MAF). I checked the MAF and the intake for leaks. Found the intake seemed > to be a bit off, tightened it and couldn't find any other obvious leaks. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:42:24 -0500 From: "Doug Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'KMS- Brett Anderson'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I replaced the "rubber boot" in the past, because it had become cracked, that was about 30k miles ago. Other than that, the intake hasn't been touched. When I said "tightened the intake" below, I meant that I reseated the rubber intake boot and tightened the clamp. I'm assuming you mean re-sealing the intake manifold itself. Is there a way for me to check that, or is resealing it something I can do myself (no special tools here). Thanks for the quick response Bret. Doug -----Original Message----- From: KMS- Brett Anderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 11:27 AM To: Doug Foster Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] E34 540 idle problems continue When was the intake last re-sealed? Brett Anderson KMS Doug Foster wrote: > Then the other day, it really wouldn't idle and threw a CEL. Code was 1215 > (MAF). I checked the MAF and the intake for leaks. Found the intake seemed > to be a bit off, tightened it and couldn't find any other obvious leaks. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:48:28 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Doug Foster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reseal the intake, completely. New front and rear gaskets, new base gaskets, replace the rear cover plate. New vacuum hose for fuel pressure regulator and new vacuum caps on the rear plate. It will make an amazing difference. You can do it yourself, the most specialized tool you need is a T30 driver for the screws on the front and rear. Buy some new screws, as you'll strip the heads on a few and need vice grips to remove them. Brett Anderson KMS Doug Foster wrote: > I replaced the "rubber boot" in the past, because it had become cracked, > that was about 30k miles ago. Other than that, the intake hasn't been > touched. When I said "tightened the intake" below, I meant that I reseated > the rubber intake boot and tightened the clamp. I'm assuming you mean > re-sealing the intake manifold itself. > > Is there a way for me to check that, or is resealing it something I can do > myself (no special tools here). ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 15:34:21 -0500 From: "Doug Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, I just got all the parts and started the job. I found the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator has a HUGE hole in it. You couldn't see it from the top, had to take it completely off to find it. I'll keep working on everything else, since I'm sure there are more issues. Thanks for the help, and have a great (and safe) New Year! Doug -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KMS- Brett Anderson Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 11:48 AM To: Doug Foster Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] E34 540 idle problems continue Reseal the intake, completely. New front and rear gaskets, new base gaskets, replace the rear cover plate. New vacuum hose for fuel pressure regulator and new vacuum caps on the rear plate. It will make an amazing difference. You can do it yourself, the most specialized tool you need is a T30 driver for the screws on the front and rear. Buy some new screws, as you'll strip the heads on a few and need vice grips to remove them. Brett Anderson KMS Doug Foster wrote: > I replaced the "rubber boot" in the past, because it had become cracked, > that was about 30k miles ago. Other than that, the intake hasn't been > touched. When I said "tightened the intake" below, I meant that I reseated > the rubber intake boot and tightened the clamp. I'm assuming you mean > re-sealing the intake manifold itself. > > Is there a way for me to check that, or is resealing it something I can do > myself (no special tools here). Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 08:35:11 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Doug Foster'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm not real familiar with the E34 engine but to me it sounds like you may have a vacuum leak or <gasp> maybe a bad connector or sensor. Have you checked all the hoses connected to the intake to make sure one isn't loose or cracked? Is there a crankcase breather hose? If it starts right up then I'll assume your crank position sender is ok. Does the exhaust smell funny/rich when it's running? How's the voltage on your battery? I have a Chebby truck that runs like absolute crap if the battery voltage is low when I first start it. Check the connectors for the cam positions sender and the water temp sender. If either is loose or if the sender is bad the ecu could be having problems but that 1215 code is problematic. Have you cleared the code? Usually if you disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour the codes will clear. At worst you could increase the idle to 1000rpm..... There should be a set screw on the TB that adjusts the throttle off position of the butterfly. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Doug Foster Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 8:22 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] E34 540 idle problems continue I had some erratic idle problems lately and some issues where the car would stall when moved into reverse (automatic). Then the other day, it really wouldn't idle and threw a CEL. Code was 1215 (MAF). I checked the MAF and the intake for leaks. Found the intake seemed to be a bit off, tightened it and couldn't find any other obvious leaks. Cleared the code, started it and it still wouldn't idle. It would start okay, but as the idle dropped down to the 700-600 range it would get rough, drop further and die. It can be kept alive with the throttle at about 1000rpm. I tried swapping out the MAF (had an old one that I had been told was good), but when I started it, it immediately throws the CEL with 1215, so I assume it is bad. I've pulled and cleaned the ICV. It moves easily (too easy?) like it is spring loaded to partially open. It "buzzes" at idle, and has the resistance that Bentley specs. When I check it with the ignition on, it moves to a partially open position. If I try to move it to full open, it moves easy and kind of buzzes when it gets to full open, but when I let go, it kind of bounces back to position. It doesn't seem to be "pushing hard", but I have no idea what it should feel like. I checked the TPS as well, which shows from 1.2k Ohm to 3.7k Ohm (Bentley says "approx" 1k - 4k). The resistance changes smoothly as I move the throttle. Are there any other tests I should be doing? I don't want to just replace the MAF and ICV as a guess, since they both seem to be $300 parts each. My local shop is closed today and tomorrow, and I am supposed to start a new job on Wednesday, so I'm stuck unless I can figure this out. Any clues or suggestions are welcome. Thanks! Doug 94 540iA - 170k miles and suddenly sick. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release Date: 12/30/2007 11:27 AM ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:49:57 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Aaargh! Don't EVER try and do this on a Motronic car. It does not work, all it does is screw with the engine management system and create all sorts of drivability problems. Brett Anderson KMS Marco Romani wrote: > At worst you could increase the idle to 1000rpm..... There should be a set > screw on the TB that adjusts the throttle off position of the butterfly. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 10:09:15 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E34 540 idle problems continue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ;-) Wasn't meant as permanent fix, I just wanted him to get to work, no guarantees on making it back. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KMS- Brett Anderson Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 8:50 AM To: Marco Romani Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] E34 540 idle problems continue Aaargh! Don't EVER try and do this on a Motronic car. It does not work, all it does is screw with the engine management system and create all sorts of drivability problems. Brett Anderson KMS Marco Romani wrote: > At worst you could increase the idle to 1000rpm..... There should be a > set screw on the TB that adjusts the throttle off position of the > butterfly. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release Date: 12/30/2007 11:27 AM ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 20:46:56 -0600 From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC BMW Digest'" <[email protected]> Subject: E39 sticky 5th gear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm starting to see signs of the dreaded sticky 5th gear detent on my 02 530i (manual) with 60K on it. This is a case where in neutral the shifter wants to stick under 5th gear rather than returning to it's normal home between 3 and 4. At the moment if I pull the lever back where it belongs I can feel the detent plunger follow it, and as it warms up it gets better. I had the same issue on my 99 M3 at about the same age/miles, and over time it just got worse, enough to where hitting 5th instead of 3rd becomes a common issue once the detent plunger quits moving. I fixed it on the M3 - it's actually pretty simple - once the trans was out of the car. The total parts cost is right about $2. Questions - I've never heard of anyone complain about this on an E39. Is this unusual? On the E36 there is about zero space between the side of the trans and the tunnel, which is why the trans has to come out unless you fancy drilling a big hole in the floor of the car. Has anyone ever heard of fixing this with the trans in the car on an E39, since it is a bit more spacious under there? Dave Swingle ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(10 messages) **********
