On Sunday 24 January 2016 04:18:27 Erik Christiansen wrote:

> On 23.01.16 12:27, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Now we are getting more precise than we can drill with the typical
> > drill bit, which usually drills oversize because the tip flats are
> > un-avoidably off center. Even to a small extent for pricy carbide
> > bits in the smaller sizes.  Yesterdays finished tapping looked
> > great, but I think I could have used the next larger #drill. Yeah,
> > my back of a napkin said a .089 drill, kcalc says
> > 0.0984251968503937008 for a 3mm.5 screw.
> >
> > No wonder I felt like I should peck it, the hole WAS too small.
>
> Ahem, it was WAAAY too small. ;-)
>
> Just a glance at the table upthread shows that 2.6mm (0.102") gives
> 65% engagement, which is as much as I ever want on M3, to avoid
> busting the tap. Even kcalc's 2.5mm (0.098") drill is too small,
> giving a dangerous (to small taps) 82% engagement.
>
> And that .089 (2.26mm) gives an engagement of:
>
> E = (OD - Drill_Size)/2kp
>   = (3 - 2.26)/(2*0.613*.5)
>   = 120%
>
> That has the tap drilling as well as tapping!
> You did superbly to not break the tap, Gene.
>
Considering it was an Irwin/Hansen tap, downright, I was holding my mouth 
dead right, miraculous.

But I had a hunch, and since I was doing it from the mdi command line, as 
I only had 2  hole to tap an inch apart, I started at 1mm increments, 
and was amazed once it actually started cutting, at how much debris 
there was on the tap when it withdrew.  Since I was driving it all the 
way thru a 1/2" piece of what I think is 7076-T6, I only drove it an 
additional 3mm per plunge until the 12mm mark, then 1mm at a hit till I 
could see it coming out of the bottom, which, since the screw was going 
to enter from that side, meant I had to take it out of the vise and 
finish the bottom to full depth threads by hand using the drill chuck 
and its R8 rear end for grip. That was because the tip if I went any 
deeper would have been hitting the vise and that would have broken it 
sure as taxes. Sure was beautiful threads though. :)

Dumbass here should have shimmed it up a 1/4" when I tightened the vise.  
More of that famous 20-05 hindsight many of us are so familiar with. :(
 
> I tried a 2.5mm (0.098") drill for M3. Once.
> Although the tap didn't break, I went straight out and bought a couple
> of 2.6mm drills. Now I can tap M3 without my hair standing on end.

I bought that Drill Hog set I posted a link to.  Now all I have to do is 
train this old fart to put the bit back in the drill index when I'm done 
with it.  But from the pix, those look well enough finished that they 
will be very easily identified should I forget. What I have surviving 
from a rot-gut whiskey chinese yard sale special bit set, which is about 
half of the numbered drills it had, might get stuff below 3/16 or so 
thrown in the rubbermaid bag holder in the corner.  None of it was the 
size stated when mic'd across the flutes. I will not cry when they go 
out in the bottom of a contractors cleanup bag.

I have several things on trucks, but I don't expect to see any of them 
tll the middle of the week.

As for making circuit boards, I think this mill can do it IF we can get 
camview-emc and friends running on wheezy. Otherwise the cutest thing 
thats exactly what I'd need is the Taiwanese Sable 2015 for 700 some USD 
& shipping.  All in needs is a computer and I have, stashed away in the 
basement, just waiting for such an occasion, 3 switch boxes that can 
switch a whole db25 parport.  So I'd flip the two switches since I have 
some stuff on my 5i25's P2, and load the config to drive it. Stated 
accuracy with its antibacklash nuts on conventional screws is .02mm, and 
that will carve decent pcb's. Rinky-dink belt driven 10k rpm spindle, 
but that motor could be replaced eventually.  The only thing that 
bothers me about the demo video on their site, is that it wasn't touched 
off right, so the tool was digging a good 10 thou into the glass.  Thats 
pure hell on tools.  Its a moving table design for X, and any Y tilt 
errors can probably be shimmed out.  Good design for a small pcb router 
IMNSHO.

Now if I could be assured of making enough PCB's to warrant buying it, 
but I cannot see enough sales to justify it.  There was no response to 
the offer of pcb's for that charge pump board.  And if I revert my 
registration to the precision pallet per each new board I make method, 
this one will do a better job than the little mill I made the first few 
boards on, such as the lathes encoder carrier.  But with the little 
mill's 10 tpi acme drive Z screw anchored a foot plus above the head, Z 
drift with temperature is a major problem, cold morning to warm 
afternoon is about .009" downward, all I think from radiated heat from 
its spindle motor warming up the nearby screw as there has never been a 
spindle bearing heating problem.  A small fan on the machine to help 
equalize the temps helps quite a bit.

This G0704 OTOH, seems to drift upwards about .002" for a 40F rise in 
bearing temps.  Which it will do at 2500 revs in 30 minutes.  Thats 
opposite the little HF mill but not near as large a shift.

I have some snow to move come daylight, so I'd better go hybernate the 
rest of the night.

Thanks Erik
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene>

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