--- Bob Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> --- Bob Talbot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> >
> > Next: I have EOS1n, EOS RT and EOS 50e ... their
> > shutter lag times and general response times are
> > not identical. I would not be surprised if
> > there was a finite delay .. (note: I'm talking
> > about fast angular shifts in the subject across
> > the view. If I could afford a matching body (to
> > either of the above) I would be less sceptical.
>
> I can't imagine any reasonable way to get the
> shutters to fire in sync using bodies with differing
> lag times. No matter what solution you use, you're
> going to be triggering the shutter release
> simultaneously, not the shutter.
>
> While I suupose it would be possible to build an
> electronic device that lets you insert a variable
> lag time before one of the two bodies is tripped,
> adjusting it would be a potential nightmare of trial
> and error.
>
> If you really need absolutely synchronous shutter
> tripping, I think you might be better served to hunt
> down a purpose built stereo camera. The next best
> would be two idential bodies, but sample to sample
> variance is probably going to introduce some
> differences even in that case.
Another possible (but limiting) solution would be the
use of flash to make the exposure. Obviously where
ambient light levels are high this will have warts on
it, but at low light levels where the main lighting
would result from flash output, one of the cameras
could be rigged to fire a flash (or flash array).
By working out shutter lag times and triggering the
flash from the body with the slowest shutter response
time (50e) and setting a slower shutter speed on the
body with the faster lag time (1n) you can have both
shutters fully open at the time of exposure.
E.G. Set the 50e to 1/125 and the 1n to 1/30 (or
similar - some testing may be in order) and trigger
the flash from the 50e - both shutters would be open
at the same time and exposure is based on flash
timing, not the exact shutter timing.
Of course aperture settings should be identical,
except with the RT, where you'd have to open the
aperture up 2/3 of a stop to get the correct flash
exposure due to the pellicle miror.
Regards
Gary
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