Paddy,
Have a look in the latest Zoom there using a modified Mazda turbo on a RB20
powered Silvia producing 206KW at the wheels.
Andrew Smith
paddy mcmillan wrote:
> g`day,
> im going to use a Hitachi ht18s-2s turbo from a series 4 RX-7, ive got the
> manifolds and turbo already, just need to make up an exhaust, organize the
> oil & water lines for the turbo, get the carb & cable setup finished and
> then a quick ring and bearing job on the motor, then fit it all in me car
> and tune it. (i think thats about it) would like to have it goin for the
> Adelaide cruise (oct 21) but things are goin a bit slow.
> im either going to reuse my W53 head or an A87 i have here depending on the
> W53`s condition.as for the cam i got a few here i can try. i didnt think the
> factory C cam had that much lift? .497" is a fair bit. Is there a diff
> between the C and C1?
> was that use the pressure from the turbo to power the water feed for the
> injection instead of using a squirter motor? the low water level switch
> sounds like a good thing. the ford bottle is pretty trendy lookin isnt it,
> dunno where it would fit tho
> what is a Hobbs switch worth?
> Paddy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 9:20 PM
> Subject: RE: Turbo'd L series
>
> > Paddy,
> > You will get good power from a L16, consider using an A87 41cc L18 35 or
> > 38mm head and not the 210 head, 170hp? yes I think so fairly easily. Have
> > you thought about which turbo to use, FJ T03 is good, better RB30 hybrid,
> > even a T28 would be nice on a L16 turbo. How do like the water injection
> > trick with the Ford water bottle, it's so easy to do and very inexpensive.
> > Turbo L's don't produce their best if you use a wild cam, a S1 L20B cam is
> > about perfect C1 U20 stamping, it's about identical to a L16SSS cam with
> > ~25? 4 or 6 degree duration and ~.497" lift.
> >
> > Have some fun with the L16 learning what works and what doesn't.
> >
> > The L16 crank is cast. The L18 SSS engines that were fitted with high
> > compression pistons i.e. W blocks and most import L18SSS were fitted with
> a
> > machined crank that Nissan parts ppl (:- referred to as steel cranks -
> they
> > were sort after by the rally engine builders, at Lennocks we had a waiting
> > list in the old days. The 610SSS and some 710SSS were the only production
> > steel cranks in L powered dattos that I know of.
> >
> > The L18W block has Siamese water jackets and about 25% more water
> capacity,
> > stronger rib bracing, basically and industrial strength block. The steel
> > cranks were fitted to some non W 610SSS engines in Australia, but these
> were
> > the exception rather than the norm.
> >
> > terry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of paddy mcmillan
> > Sent: Saturday, 30 September 2000 6:54 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Turbo'd L series
> >
> >
> > g`day,
> > as i said before, when i get bored with this motor ill change to a
> bigger
> > Lseries. it wont cost very much to change from the l16 block to an l20
> will
> > it, as for the rods they are L18 and have the 9mm bolts in them. ive
> changed
> > me brakes to the 200b ones for now, but am still lookin into a larger
> setup.
> > im not trying to build a perfect long lasting motor i just want somthin i
> > can cane the shit out off for a while with out costing a years income to
> > fit, but be able to replace/upgrade easily/cheaply when that time comes
> and
> > i dont think there is any other option as good as an Lseries.
> > if i can get anywhere near170hp from this i would be happy(for now).
> > Terry, you mentioned the L18w having a steel crank, whats the L16 crank
> > made from? and whats the difference between a SSS L18W and a non SSS L18W?
> > SSS nonW L18?
> > paddy
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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