Steel lines only with the special double crimps I'm told. Cheers Feral Errol
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd Sent: Saturday, 1 June 2002 6:02 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Brake Booster OK, thanks Errol. I've never had trouble with copper lines but if they are illegal now then use an alternative. What is legal beside steel? bundy? brake places will know. regards, Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of E Smith Sent: Saturday, 1 June 2002 7:21 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Brake Booster Copper lines are not legal. This is because as the copper is pressurised it flexes and the copper work hardens with the movement. As the copper hardens it becomes brittle and liable to crack under pressure. Cheers Feral Errol -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd Sent: Friday, 31 May 2002 11:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Brake Booster Andrew, It's really a fairly easy conversion if you have the right tools and you don't need much to do it yourself. A dual flare tool is useful and some copper brake line, (I think copper lines are still legal), and a blind metric bleeder. Draw up the game plan (schematic diagram) from my description below before you unbolt anything. Master cylinder dual upgrade from stock single cylinder. I keep the original 1600 brake blocks for this conversion i.e. the one that's under the master cylinder near the chassis rail and the other is behind the head just above the tranny tunnel. (Note. For FJ20 engine the brake block above the tranny tunnel has been relocated). 1. Remove the original outlet line from the single cylinder and the lower block and discard. 2. Remove the line from the lower block that goes to the rear brake block that's at the top of the trans tunnel, and also discard. 3. Make up two new lines - from rear outlet on twin master cylinder (for front brake) to one of the open connections in the lower block. 4. Make up another line from front outlet on twin master cylinder (rear brake) which goes to rear block in tranny tunnel. 5. At this stage you've got 1 open outlet left in the lower block - just buy a metric threaded blind bleeder from a brake place and block off the outlet. 6. Connect the brake pedal (some models require a new hole to be drilled in the pedal for the clevis pin as the rod from the 180B Kiki booster comes through the firewall at a slightly different angle to the single non-boosted master cylinder (others don't and I've never figured out how to tell the difference before I start). Connect the booster vac line making sure the one way valve is the correct way around etc, then bleed it up and you're racing in no time. Adding a prop valve at the same time or later if already has dual master cylinder I prefer to use a Japanese cylinder, eg Nabco, Tokico, Sankyo etc and in that order. (180B Girlock cylinder is a lot more work and they are crap anyway, done it once only in my younger inexperienced days and threw it away). The method is much the same either from single master cyl or dual without prop valve. I pickup the bits required (usually off a 180B) and I always get the 180B drivers side front line with the prop valve and also the lines from the Japanese cylinder to the prop valve to make this conversion very easy on a 1600. 1. Remove and discard the original line(s) from the master cylinder. 2. If upgrading from single master cylinder fit the dual cylinder and booster as the 180B lines can then be re-used, i.e. it makes for a much easier conversion. If you don't want to use the booster you'll have to make up replacement lines from the cylinder to the prop valve as everything will be out of whack, but not impossible. 3. Remove and discard the original 1600 drivers side line i.e. from lower block to calliper. 4. For single to dual conversion remove and discard the rear line from the lower block to the rear block, (for existing dual cylinder this step is redundant). 5. Bolt the prop valve in place and connect up the lines from the master cylinder to the prop valve and the front brake line (all these fit from the 180B or if not obtained then make them up). 6. Make up two new lines from the other front outlet on the prop valve which goes to the lower block (for front passenger side) and rear outlet from the prop valve goes to the rear block above the tranny tunnel. 7. You will also with this conversion have 1 redundant outlet in the lower block (old drivers wheel line) that you just block off with a metric blind bleeder. Not much to this conversion either as you can see from this fairly simple outline. regards Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Andrew Greenbury Sent: Friday, 31 May 2002 11:05 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Brake Booster Hi Terry, Got a dumb question - how did you connect it up to your existing lines without the use of the prop valve? Im thinking of getting a few master cylinder sizes from the wrecker and trialling them out to find the "best" one - which couple of sizes would you suggest I should pick up? Thanks Andrew --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
