yeh terry,
bundy is legal, i've used this in my car
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "E Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 6:46 PM
Subject: RE: Brake Booster


> Steel lines only with the special double crimps I'm told.
>
> Cheers
> Feral Errol
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
> Sent: Saturday, 1 June 2002 6:02 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Brake Booster
>
> OK, thanks Errol. I've never had trouble with copper lines but if they are
> illegal now then use an alternative. What is legal beside steel? bundy?
> brake places will know.
>
> regards,
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of E Smith
> Sent: Saturday, 1 June 2002 7:21 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Brake Booster
>
>
> Copper lines are not legal. This is because as the copper is pressurised
it
> flexes and the copper work hardens with the movement. As the copper
hardens
> it becomes brittle and liable to crack under pressure.
>
> Cheers
> Feral Errol
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Terry Rudd
> Sent: Friday, 31 May 2002 11:14 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Brake Booster
>
> Andrew,
>
> It's really a fairly easy conversion if you have the right tools and you
> don't need much to do it yourself. A dual flare tool is useful and some
> copper brake line, (I think copper lines are still legal), and a blind
> metric bleeder. Draw up the game plan (schematic diagram) from my
> description below before you unbolt anything.
>
> Master cylinder dual upgrade from stock single cylinder.
> I keep the original 1600 brake blocks for this conversion i.e. the one
> that's under the master cylinder near the chassis rail and the other is
> behind the head just above the tranny tunnel. (Note. For FJ20 engine the
> brake block above the tranny tunnel has been relocated).
>
> 1. Remove the original outlet line from the single cylinder and the lower
> block and discard.
>
> 2. Remove the line from the lower block that goes to the rear brake block
> that's at the top of the trans tunnel, and also discard.
>
> 3. Make up two new lines - from rear outlet on twin master
> cylinder (for front brake) to one of the open connections in the lower
> block.
>
> 4. Make up another line from front outlet on twin master cylinder (rear
> brake) which goes to rear block in tranny tunnel.
>
> 5. At this stage you've got 1 open outlet left in the lower block - just
buy
> a metric threaded blind bleeder from a brake place and block off the
outlet.
>
> 6. Connect the brake pedal (some models require a new hole to be drilled
in
> the pedal for the clevis pin as the rod from the 180B Kiki booster comes
> through the firewall at a slightly different angle to the single
non-boosted
> master cylinder (others don't and I've never figured out how to tell the
> difference before I start). Connect the booster vac line making sure the
one
> way valve is the correct way around etc, then bleed it up and you're
racing
> in no time.
>
>
> Adding a prop valve at the same time or later if already has dual master
> cylinder
> I prefer to use a Japanese cylinder, eg Nabco, Tokico, Sankyo etc and in
> that order. (180B Girlock cylinder is a lot more work and they are crap
> anyway, done it once only in my younger inexperienced days and threw it
> away). The method is much the same either from single master cyl or dual
> without prop valve. I pickup the bits required (usually off a 180B) and I
> always get the 180B drivers side front line with the prop valve and also
the
> lines from the Japanese cylinder to the prop valve to make this conversion
> very easy on a 1600.
>
> 1. Remove and discard the original line(s) from the master cylinder.
>
> 2. If upgrading from single master cylinder fit the dual cylinder and
> booster as the 180B lines can then be re-used, i.e. it makes for a much
> easier conversion. If you don't want to use the booster you'll have to
make
> up replacement lines from the cylinder to the prop valve as everything
will
> be out of whack, but not impossible.
>
> 3. Remove and discard the original 1600 drivers side line i.e. from lower
> block to calliper.
>
> 4. For single to dual conversion remove and discard the rear line from the
> lower block to the rear block, (for existing dual cylinder this step is
> redundant).
>
> 5. Bolt the prop valve in place and connect up the lines from the master
> cylinder to the prop valve and the front brake line (all these fit from
the
> 180B or if not obtained then make them up).
>
> 6. Make up two new lines from the other front outlet on the prop valve
which
> goes to the lower block (for front passenger side) and rear outlet from
the
> prop valve goes to the rear block above the tranny tunnel.
>
> 7. You will also with this conversion have 1 redundant outlet in the lower
> block (old drivers wheel line) that you just block off with a metric blind
> bleeder.
>
> Not much to this conversion either as you can see from this fairly simple
> outline.
>
> regards
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Andrew
> Greenbury
> Sent: Friday, 31 May 2002 11:05 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: Brake Booster
>
>
> Hi Terry,
>
> Got a dumb question - how did you connect it up to your existing
> lines without the use of the prop valve?
>
> Im thinking of getting a few master cylinder sizes from the wrecker
> and trialling them out to find the "best" one - which couple of sizes
> would you suggest I should pick up?
>
> Thanks
> Andrew
>
>
>
>
>

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