Terry, This post and the other one outlining all the different/common combos is an excellent summary. A quick look at my car appears that someone has performed the work you outlined, so I'll use your info to check they did it right :)
I have 240k twins/standard drums/boosted and 7/8" but one thing I dont know is if a prop valve has been used or not. What I thought was the prop valve is the lower block (RH suspension tower) from your description. Gonna have to compare to a 180B next time I see one :) Thanks Andrew > Andrew, > > It's really a fairly easy conversion if you have the right tools and you > don't need much to do it yourself. A dual flare tool is useful and some > copper brake line, (I think copper lines are still legal), and a blind > metric bleeder. Draw up the game plan (schematic diagram) from my > description below before you unbolt anything. > > Master cylinder dual upgrade from stock single cylinder. > I keep the original 1600 brake blocks for this conversion i.e. the one > that's under the master cylinder near the chassis rail and the other is > behind the head just above the tranny tunnel. (Note. For FJ20 engine the > brake block above the tranny tunnel has been relocated). > > 1. Remove the original outlet line from the single cylinder and the lower > block and discard. > > 2. Remove the line from the lower block that goes to the rear brake block > that's at the top of the trans tunnel, and also discard. > > 3. Make up two new lines - from rear outlet on twin master > cylinder (for front brake) to one of the open connections in the lower > block. > > 4. Make up another line from front outlet on twin master cylinder (rear > brake) which goes to rear block in tranny tunnel. > > 5. At this stage you've got 1 open outlet left in the lower block - just buy > a metric threaded blind bleeder from a brake place and block off the outlet. > > 6. Connect the brake pedal (some models require a new hole to be drilled in > the pedal for the clevis pin as the rod from the 180B Kiki booster comes > through the firewall at a slightly different angle to the single non-boosted > master cylinder (others don't and I've never figured out how to tell the > difference before I start). Connect the booster vac line making sure the one > way valve is the correct way around etc, then bleed it up and you're racing > in no time. > > > Adding a prop valve at the same time or later if already has dual master > cylinder > I prefer to use a Japanese cylinder, eg Nabco, Tokico, Sankyo etc and in > that order. (180B Girlock cylinder is a lot more work and they are crap > anyway, done it once only in my younger inexperienced days and threw it > away). The method is much the same either from single master cyl or dual > without prop valve. I pickup the bits required (usually off a 180B) and I > always get the 180B drivers side front line with the prop valve and also the > lines from the Japanese cylinder to the prop valve to make this conversion > very easy on a 1600. > > 1. Remove and discard the original line(s) from the master cylinder. > > 2. If upgrading from single master cylinder fit the dual cylinder and > booster as the 180B lines can then be re-used, i.e. it makes for a much > easier conversion. If you don't want to use the booster you'll have to make > up replacement lines from the cylinder to the prop valve as everything will > be out of whack, but not impossible. > > 3. Remove and discard the original 1600 drivers side line i.e. from lower > block to calliper. > > 4. For single to dual conversion remove and discard the rear line from the > lower block to the rear block, (for existing dual cylinder this step is > redundant). > > 5. Bolt the prop valve in place and connect up the lines from the master > cylinder to the prop valve and the front brake line (all these fit from the > 180B or if not obtained then make them up). > > 6. Make up two new lines from the other front outlet on the prop valve which > goes to the lower block (for front passenger side) and rear outlet from the > prop valve goes to the rear block above the tranny tunnel. > > 7. You will also with this conversion have 1 redundant outlet in the lower > block (old drivers wheel line) that you just block off with a metric blind > bleeder. > > Not much to this conversion either as you can see from this fairly simple > outline. > > regards > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Andrew > Greenbury > Sent: Friday, 31 May 2002 11:05 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: Brake Booster > > > Hi Terry, > > Got a dumb question - how did you connect it up to your existing > lines without the use of the prop valve? > > Im thinking of getting a few master cylinder sizes from the wrecker > and trialling them out to find the "best" one - which couple of sizes > would you suggest I should pick up? > > Thanks > Andrew > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
