Hi Terry,
I had a look today and i can only just fit my index finger inbetween and
once the mount is ground back then there will be a little less room
One thing I find a little puzzling is how will these parts come into
contact? I've made an image below with lines and text according to what I
think moves together - please correct me where i'm wrong.
http://sr510.com/gfy/no_fit_text.jpg
cheers,
Adam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 5:09 AM
Subject: RE: shaving the engine mounts?
The top angle photo indicates there isn't a problem as the housing looks
to
be in a different plane to the mount - Ok, then I looked at the "another
angle" pic and it looks like it could be a problem just like it did in the
first photo - I think visual is the go here. General rule in that area is
if
you can fit your index finger between things she's fine. I've not read
about
mount clearance problems with SR's on their list that I can recall and
surely someone on there has fitted the same turbo as you're in the process
of - you may wish to ask for a 2nd opinion as "been there done that" is
always useful.
Regards,
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2006 4:37 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: shaving the engine mounts?
Terry,
I got ya now. Pretty sure that the engine mounts go out on an angle
towards
the engine so the area you're referring to should be behind the mount
itself.
This pic gives a better idea of that http://sr510.com/gfy/top_angle.jpg
and another for good measure http://www.sr510.com/gfy/another_angle.jpg
I'll definitely check it out as i hadn't even noticed that so thanks for
pointing it out.
cheers,
Adam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 3:45 AM
Subject: RE: shaving the engine mounts?
Adam,
You doing the swing shift too? On the photo it looks like the
clearance between the bottom of the turbo housing and the flat bit at
the bottom of the mount that the bolts go thru (just above the rubber
insulator) is close. There's a hose clamp in there too, but that looks
like it's behind the mount
and not in play. It may be just the angle of the photo but it doesn't
look
like there's 50mm clearance in the photo. When you check it out, draw a
line
between what moves with the engine, and what is bolted to the chassis
i.e.
the static bit. If you do decide to weld in the brace make sure you run a
vertical weld up either side of the plate, with the welded method it will
be
the first thing an engineer looks at if they see the mount has been
modified. Most times they don't see the modification to OEM mounts if it
looks stock - you're nearly always 101% there if it looks nice as well as
being sound for you're peace of mind. I've seen some mods get knocked
back
that were structurally 100% sound but looked fugly - go figure.
Regards,
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adam
Jackson
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2006 2:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: shaving the engine mounts?
Hi Terry,
I'm not quite sure I understand where abouts you mean with regards to
the housing hitting the static part of the mount? Do you mean the X
member where the rubber part of the mount is sitting? That's a good 40
or 50mm from the housing, but i'll check it out in anycase.
Thanks for the reply - i'll definitely weld in a new brace and be sure
to paint everything up so it looks OEM ;)
cheers,
Adam
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 2:19 AM
Subject: RE: shaving the engine mounts?
Morning folks,
Nice dryer. I can't see much problem with shaving the mount in this
case as
it looks like an OEM mount as opposed to a backyard purpose built one.
It
doesn't require much clearance in that area - 5mm is ample as the mount
&
the turbo will move in the same plane at all times - you do get a small
amount of flex thru the manifolds but it's minimal.
If you're worried about the integrity of the mount post shaving I'd
suggest that you weld a small brace on the inside between the
vertical plates or an
easier method to brace it is to use a decent size bolt eg 8mm thru
either
a
round or square tube that's positioned flush between the inner vertical
surfaces - either method is acceptable for racing engines so rego
shouldn't
have a drama with either. The position of the reinforcing brace would be
say
25mm i.e. around half way from the bottom of the mount.
Any time I've been required to shave a mount I always repaint it etc
to make
it look like it's not just been hacked with a grinder - if it looks like
it's been hacked then it probably has been in the minds of most
engineers.
Actually from looking at the photo, I'd be more worried about the
clearance
between the static part of the mount (i.e. below the insulator) and the
housing when the engine moves at WOT on the mounts. Hard to say from the
pic
how much static clearance there is there but it needs to be at least
10mm.
Heat will not be a factor in this case as far as I could tell from the
pic.
Have fun with it,
Regards,
Terry
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