It will be interesting to read what they think - I see anything that's
posted as I'm on the SR list too.

Regards,
Terry

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2006 3:25 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: shaving the engine mounts?


Thanks Terry. I see - I always thought there was more movement in the 
insulator. Luckily I asked, i've sent out a message on the sr20transplants 
group to see how others have gone about fixing this problem too.

thanks for your help.

cheers,
Adam



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: RE: shaving the engine mounts?


> Adam,
>
> The "this is fixed line" needs to come up to the top of the insulator 
> -
> the
> other lines are correct. The insulator doesn't move much but it does move
> under heavy load and acceleration/deceleration and more so when everything
> is hot under the bonnet, and the movement will increase slightly as time
> goes by. It passes the index finger test so it is fine. I would wait until
> you get it going and then worry about it if it touches - removing the dump
> to get the mount out would be the only pain.
>
> Regards,
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adam 
> Jackson
> Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2006 12:31 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: shaving the engine mounts?
>
>
> Hi Terry,
>
> I had a look today and i can only just fit my index finger inbetween 
> and once the mount is ground back then there will be a little less 
> room
>
> One thing I find a little puzzling is how will these parts come into 
> contact? I've made an image below with lines and text according to 
> what I think moves together - please correct me where i'm wrong.
>
> http://sr510.com/gfy/no_fit_text.jpg
>
> cheers,
> Adam
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 5:09 AM
> Subject: RE: shaving the engine mounts?
>
>
>> The top angle photo indicates there isn't a problem as the housing 
>> looks to
>> be in a different plane to the mount - Ok, then I looked at the "another
>> angle" pic and it looks like it could be a problem just like it did in 
>> the
>> first photo - I think visual is the go here. General rule in that area is
>> if
>> you can fit your index finger between things she's fine. I've not read
>> about
>> mount clearance problems with SR's on their list that I can recall and
>> surely someone on there has fitted the same turbo as you're in the 
>> process
>> of - you may wish to ask for a 2nd opinion as "been there done that" is
>> always useful.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Terry
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: [email protected]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adam 
>> Jackson
>> Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2006 4:37 AM
>> To: [email protected]
>> Subject: Re: shaving the engine mounts?
>>
>>
>> Terry,
>>
>> I got ya now. Pretty sure that the engine mounts go out on an angle 
>> towards the engine so the area you're referring to should be behind 
>> the mount itself.
>> This pic gives a better idea of that http://sr510.com/gfy/top_angle.jpg
>>
>> and another for good measure 
>> http://www.sr510.com/gfy/another_angle.jpg
>>
>> I'll definitely check it out as i hadn't even noticed that so thanks 
>> for pointing it out.
>>
>> cheers,
>> Adam
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 3:45 AM
>> Subject: RE: shaving the engine mounts?
>>
>>
>>> Adam,
>>>
>>> You doing the swing shift too? On the photo it looks like the 
>>> clearance between the bottom of the turbo housing and the flat bit 
>>> at the bottom of the mount that the bolts go thru (just above the 
>>> rubber
>>> insulator) is close. There's a hose clamp in there too, but that
>>> looks like it's behind the mount and not in play. It may be just the
>>> angle of the photo but it doesn't look
>>> like there's 50mm clearance in the photo. When you check it out, draw a
>>> line
>>> between what moves with the engine, and what is bolted to the chassis
>>> i.e.
>>> the static bit. If you do decide to weld in the brace make sure you run 
>>> a
>>> vertical weld up either side of the plate, with the welded method it 
>>> will
>>> be
>>> the first thing an engineer looks at if they see the mount has been
>>> modified. Most times they don't see the modification to OEM mounts if it
>>> looks stock - you're nearly always 101% there if it looks nice as well 
>>> as
>>> being sound for you're peace of mind. I've seen some mods get knocked
>>> back
>>> that were structurally 100% sound but looked fugly - go figure.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Terry
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: [email protected]
>>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Adam 
>>> Jackson
>>> Sent: Thursday, 15 June 2006 2:50 AM
>>> To: [email protected]
>>> Subject: Re: shaving the engine mounts?
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Terry,
>>>
>>> I'm not quite sure I understand where abouts you mean with regards 
>>> to the housing hitting the static part of the mount? Do you mean the 
>>> X member where the rubber part of the mount is sitting? That's a 
>>> good 40 or 50mm from the housing, but i'll check it out in anycase.
>>>
>>> Thanks for the reply - i'll definitely weld in a new brace and be 
>>> sure to paint everything up so it looks OEM ;)
>>>
>>> cheers,
>>> Adam
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: <[email protected]>
>>> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 2:19 AM
>>> Subject: RE: shaving the engine mounts?
>>>
>>>
>>>> Morning folks,
>>>>
>>>> Nice dryer. I can't see much problem with shaving the mount in this 
>>>> case as it looks like an OEM mount as opposed to a backyard purpose 
>>>> built one. It doesn't require much clearance in that area - 5mm is 
>>>> ample as the mount &
>>>> the turbo will move in the same plane at all times - you do get a small
>>>> amount of flex thru the manifolds but it's minimal.
>>>>
>>>> If you're worried about the integrity of the mount post shaving I'd 
>>>> suggest that you weld a small brace on the inside between the 
>>>> vertical plates or an easier method to brace it is to use a decent 
>>>> size bolt eg 8mm thru either a
>>>> round or square tube that's positioned flush between the inner vertical
>>>> surfaces - either method is acceptable for racing engines so rego
>>>> shouldn't
>>>> have a drama with either. The position of the reinforcing brace would 
>>>> be
>>>> say
>>>> 25mm i.e. around half way from the bottom of the mount.
>>>>
>>>> Any time I've been required to shave a mount I always repaint it 
>>>> etc to make it look like it's not just been hacked with a grinder - 
>>>> if it looks like it's been hacked then it probably has been in the 
>>>> minds of most engineers. Actually from looking at the photo, I'd be 
>>>> more worried about the clearance
>>>> between the static part of the mount (i.e. below the insulator) and the
>>>> housing when the engine moves at WOT on the mounts. Hard to say from 
>>>> the
>>>> pic
>>>> how much static clearance there is there but it needs to be at least
>>>> 10mm.
>>>> Heat will not be a factor in this case as far as I could tell from the
>>>> pic.
>>>>
>>>> Have fun with it,
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Terry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
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