When I jack the cottage to level it, it makes the 20 ton jacks work.
Last summer I bought a bunch of the big old screw jacks. 6 of them are about 2 feet tall and I think I have 6 that are about 1 foot or a bit more and thenI have 3 or 4 smaller ones. The idea with these is that you can leave them in place and give them a half turn every couple of weeks and slowly move a building back up where it should be without much danger of tearing things apart or breaking glass. There is an addition on the south side of my house sitting on a grade beam on bell piles that has settled and I hope to raise it back up at some point. Unfortunately, it has a crawl space that is not easy to get into and I may have to cut a hole in the floor in the den in order to gain sufficient access. When I built the addition, I left a small opening and put a trap door in the floor of a closet. Big enough to get in and out but not all that good for hauling in lumber to build a beam to jack on. I would also have to cut the stucco on the exterior and find and release the bolts or cut them so that the building could be slowly lifted off of the grade beam and up where it should be. Then I would need to fill the gap and restucco the outside. I would also have to cap the poured doorsteps on both the east and west sides as they are part of the gradebeam and are down too. Not too obvious now but if the house were levelled, then the porches would be very obviously out of whack. The addition is 10 feet wide and 30 feet long and 2 storeys high. It has settled about 2 inches on the outer edge and 2 inches on 10 feet is obvious when I walk from the original house into the new part. No plumbing or kitchen or bath etc. so not too much to cause other issues. I think that the pull on that side of the house has altered the whole house as some of the doors in the original house do not stay open on their own now etc. I think, that if it was slowly moved back where it started, it should sort out most of the issues that have been created by the fact that the addition settled. The house was built new in 1981 and the addition added in 1987 so none of it is ancient.
That is why I acquired all of these jacks.

RB

On 07/08/2015 10:54 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
I know, I was embarrassed to have to bring it but I forgot the 20 at camp...
-Curt
       From: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
  To: Curt Raymond <curtlud...@yahoo.com>; Mercedes Discussion List 
<mercedes@okiebenz.com>
  Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:35 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
A 12 ton jack is a small tool.

RB



On 07/08/2015 10:31 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
Claw hammers are for driving nails, machinists hammers are for machines... I 
think mine is a 3# hammer but it gets used for basically everything except 
driving nails.
Shoulda seen my father-in-law last week when I was unloading my house jacking 
tools, 5# hammer, 12 ton jack, 4x4 post. If you're going to lift a house you 
don't use small tools.
-Curt
         From: Curly McLain via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
   To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Cc: Curly McLain <126die...@gmail.com>
   Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:19 AM
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
2 lb at HF is maybe $6 and well worth it for tie rods and ball
joints, etc.  Mine is maybe 12" over all, so it is easier to
maneuver than a claw hammer and has twice the clout.

TO take out the tapered bolts on IH H, they say to whack the side of
the yoke while applying pressure.  I used a crowbar and the 2 lb LFH
and they popped right out.  Had to do this 2-3 times recently.

Same technique should work for tie rod ends/BJ.


I always try a few blows with a regular hammer, I think only once have I
gotten lucky.

This tool was about $50 or so, bought back when Rusty was in business, and
I really like it.  Position, tighten up a bit and check to make sure it's
holding, crank it down nice and snug (three or four white knuckles of
torque), hammer the end contacting the threaded portion of the joint and
the joint usually pops right out after a couple hits.

Someday when I've got some time to play (maybe today, depending on weather)
I will try making a perfect box with string around the perimeter of the
car, then measure / adjust the toe-in.  Another way would be to make two
parallel lines with string, then drive the car between and measure/adjust.
Would be so nice to have a pit or a lift for this work.

-------------
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

     I've never had the tool.  I just back the nut off to flush, then pop it
     with a short handle 2 pounder.  That is done from the bottom, so no
     clearance problems Clarence.

     If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine are
     gone now, so I just use the LFH.

     You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade caliper
     works better.  I've never made the homemade caliper.


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