>gregebert, >Funny you should mention the B7971, in this lot with the NL8091s I also received an armload of these tubes (they actually have the same socket), funnily enough... You wouldn't happen to have a FLW >clock design using your circuitry available? That will be next on my hit-list and I will need kits to make 3 clocks (one will be a gift to the person who gave me all these tubes).
Ping me offline if you are interested. It's not in user-friendly kit-mode, and it does require some RasPi/Linux skills to connect it to your WiFi network to get the time. You might want to consider the MOD6 / Lumina design, especially if you are making clocks for others. I do my own designs because I like the challenge and the ability to choose the features, etc. On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 8:05:49 AM UTC-7 Chachi88 wrote: > Richard, > > Thanks I will PM > > gregebert, > > Funny you should mention the B7971, in this lot with the NL8091s I also > received an armload of these tubes (they actually have the same socket), > funnily enough... You wouldn't happen to have a FLW clock design using > your circuitry available? That will be next on my hit-list and I will need > kits to make 3 clocks (one will be a gift to the person who gave me all > these tubes). > > Thanks so much for your help, folks. > On Thursday, September 19, 2024 at 2:32:49 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales wrote: > >> I think I have some info at nixology.uk under the PRISM-18 project page. >> >> Full NTP Sync (clock needs wifi), web gui, pir activation, >> etc/etc/ >> >> PM me for any more info. >> >> >> - Richard >> >> On Wednesday 18 September 2024 at 21:33:00 UTC+1 Chachi88 wrote: >> >>> First off, thank you guys very much for your input here, I will address >>> them most recent to oldest. >>> >>> Peter, >>> I apologize I cannot view this link I do not use facebook. I also >>> cannot find a link to Richard Scales B-8091 clock PCB that you mention. >>> >>> Nicholas Stock, >>> Thanks a lot for showing me this website, I had come across it also, but >>> was discouraged by the "sold out" notification for this board. Is there >>> any way I can message the seller, you think? I really like all the >>> features this board has already implemented for me...but maybe greg's first >>> comment is calling my name... >>> >>> gregebert, >>> Thanks for the very informative points, I have addressed my responses >>> and followup questions individually below in *Italics.* >>> >>> #1. I dont like sockets because they put stress on the tube pins. Some >>> of them grip the pins very hard and it's difficult to insert or remove the >>> tubes, which adds to the risk of bending or breaking the pins or putting >>> stress on the glass. Instead, I use socket pins soldered into the PCB, and >>> the force to insert/remove tubes is very low. >>> *Point taken, I will look at my sockets carefully before considering >>> using them. Otherwise I will probably borrow your idea, cheers.* >>> >>> #2. Direct drive. There's no need to multiplex individual tubes, and >>> there's no cost benefit when tubes are worth hundreds of dollars apiece and >>> the drive electronics is at most a few dollars. Multiplexing requires >>> higher current, and that degrades the tube's lifetime. >>> *This is what I have understood as well, thanks for confirming.* >>> >>> #3. Use a current regulator, and set the current at the recommended spec >>> value; too high and you wear-out the tube. Too low and you risk cathode >>> poisoning. A single anode resistor per-tube is OK, but as the anode voltage >>> varies, so does the current (no such problem with a current regulator, >>> though). You can mitigate this by using a higher anode supply voltage and >>> larger anode resistor, at the expense of more wasted energy. As tubes age, >>> their striking voltage may increase, so having a higher anode voltage will >>> help mitigate this. >>> *Understood, is this implemented a current regulator per tube or is this >>> a single current regulator? If single current regulator, how do you >>> account for possibly having varying current with different digit >>> activation? or am I missing an operating principle here?* >>> >>> #4. PIR sensor. Turn off the tubes if nobody is there to watch them. >>> *This will definitely be part of the overall clock design (also >>> incorporating a Noritake Itron 20 character 5x7 VFD). I plan on having a >>> smoked plexiglass case housing the electronics and VFD while mounting the >>> nixie tubes on top. Which leads on to our next point...* >>> >>> #5. Protect the tubes inside a case, and make sure there is enough >>> ventilation so the heat doesn't build-up inside. On my later designs I have >>> a thermal sensor (sometimes several) so that software can monitor critical >>> temperatures and shutdown if things get too warm. >>> *If the tubes are always going to be high up in the air (on a dedicated >>> wall shelf), is casing them necessary? Could not casing them cause >>> convection heat to rise around them and risk stressing the glass? The >>> thermal sensor is a good idea, for the inside of my case I will certainly >>> implement this, probably in multiple spots as you suggested. Do people >>> ever put thermocouples on the tubes themselves to monitor heat or could you >>> see value in it? I might consider that in my design.* >>> >>> #6. Depoisoning routine to exercise all cathodes. >>> *This is not the first time I have read of depoisoning (a common feature >>> on most bonafide driver boards I have seen). I have also seen there are >>> different marketed techniques for depoisoning: slot machine, strobe, etc...* >>> *What are the principles behind cathode poisoning and the theory of >>> prevention? If this has already been documented somewhere please give me >>> strength on my journey you send me on.* >>> >>> #7. Backlighting (or base lighting). I havn't done this on any of my >>> clocks, and I've never had problems with tubes not firing-up. Others have >>> reported problems without backlighting. It can have aesthetic value, though >>> I'm not fond of it. >>> *I tend to agree with you, for me, this was considered aesthetically not >>> necessary, but if there is value in ensuring operation, I will plan on >>> incorporating this in the design even if it is left partially implemented >>> in hardware or neglected in software...* >>> >>> That should cover the necessities for the tubes; there are always lots >>> of other features that can be done, especially if the clock has open-source >>> software (or you develop it on your own). >>> >>> *Thank you again sincerely for expounding this much on this, I in the >>> end, I am hoping to find a clock/driver board with open source software or >>> just raw signal input pins exposed that way I can incorporate it in with my >>> VFD with minimal additional effort expounded on the nixie driver block >>> (because it has already been done probably way better than I would do it on >>> a first pass). I can then address it, animate it, etc. with a >>> microcontroller of my own...* >>> >>> >>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 11:05:11 AM UTC-4 Nicholas Stock >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Pete also has a remote driver system that will work with B8091s... >>>> >>>> https://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=43 >>>> >>>> Nick >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>> On Sep 18, 2024, at 07:16, Peter Doroba <[email protected]> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> This is the clock I made using Richard Scales B-8091 clock PCB. >>>> >>>> https://www.facebook.com/groups/142414439207058/search/?q=b-8091 >>>> >>>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 12:41:14 AM UTC-4 gregebert wrote: >>>> >>>>> Those are very valuable tubes, so if you are willing to design your >>>>> own driver and the PC board, I would do that. I've made several clocks >>>>> and >>>>> never had a design problem that affected the tubes. Even if you find a >>>>> board to purchase, see if any of the following apply: >>>>> >>>>> Some of my suggestions: >>>>> #1. I dont like sockets because they put stress on the tube pins. Some >>>>> of them grip the pins very hard and it's difficult to insert or remove >>>>> the >>>>> tubes, which adds to the risk of bending or breaking the pins or putting >>>>> stress on the glass. Instead, I use socket pins soldered into the PCB, >>>>> and >>>>> the force to insert/remove tubes is very low. >>>>> >>>>> #2. Direct drive. There's no need to multiplex individual tubes, and >>>>> there's no cost benefit when tubes are worth hundreds of dollars apiece >>>>> and >>>>> the drive electronics is at most a few dollars. Multiplexing requires >>>>> higher current, and that degrades the tube's lifetime. >>>>> >>>>> #3. Use a current regulator, and set the current at the recommended >>>>> spec value; too high and you wear-out the tube. Too low and you risk >>>>> cathode poisoning. A single anode resistor per-tube is OK, but as the >>>>> anode >>>>> voltage varies, so does the current (no such problem with a current >>>>> regulator, though). You can mitigate this by using a higher anode supply >>>>> voltage and larger anode resistor, at the expense of more wasted energy. >>>>> As >>>>> tubes age, their striking voltage may increase, so having a higher anode >>>>> voltage will help mitigate this. >>>>> >>>>> #4. PIR sensor. Turn off the tubes if nobody is there to watch them. >>>>> >>>>> #5. Protect the tubes inside a case, and make sure there is enough >>>>> ventilation so the heat doesn't build-up inside. On my later designs I >>>>> have >>>>> a thermal sensor (sometimes several) so that software can monitor >>>>> critical >>>>> temperatures and shutdown if things get too warm. >>>>> >>>>> #6. Depoisoning routine to exercise all cathodes. >>>>> >>>>> #7. Backlighting (or base lighting). I havn't done this on any of my >>>>> clocks, and I've never had problems with tubes not firing-up. Others have >>>>> reported problems without backlighting. It can have aesthetic value, >>>>> though >>>>> I'm not fond of it. >>>>> >>>>> That should cover the necessities for the tubes; there are always lots >>>>> of other features that can be done, especially if the clock has >>>>> open-source >>>>> software (or you develop it on your own). >>>>> >>>>> On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 8:17:28 PM UTC-7 Chachi88 wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I am climbing stairs from the foot of the mountain to sit at the feet >>>>>> of all you nixie gurus. >>>>>> >>>>>> What is the current state of the art for remote driver boards? I am >>>>>> aware some of the older drivers are not as reliable or can cause the >>>>>> tubes >>>>>> to degrade quicker. Some of the new options I am seeing have "cathode >>>>>> poisoning prevention" I have recently come upon qty 6 of the NL8091's >>>>>> and >>>>>> their original sockets and socket mounting plate, which I wish to reuse >>>>>> for >>>>>> a clock. Are there any off the shelf boards even capable of driving this >>>>>> tube? I was looking at a board on ebay that comes with an IR remote but >>>>>> it >>>>>> seems too good to be true, I would be willing to spend 5 times as much >>>>>> for >>>>>> a board that was properly documented and put together and had some sort >>>>>> of >>>>>> pedigree... >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks in advance for any advice or direction you can give. >>>>>> >>>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to [email protected]. >>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bac36066-03e6-4a6e-a83a-69020b75572fn%40googlegroups.com >>>> >>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bac36066-03e6-4a6e-a83a-69020b75572fn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>> . >>>> >>>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/0c703b0e-0349-4058-8f4e-95e38fc1b441n%40googlegroups.com.
