I don't think I have enough tubes to do 3 6-tube clocks. I am also noticing that all the FLW circuits and boards I am finding seem to be multiplex drive, which is undesirable from what we have discussed...but I would love to be proven wrong. If not, there might be an opportunity here...
Thanks again y'all. On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 12:10:01 PM UTC-4 MichaelB wrote: > I do. Still 5 or so in stock. Thanks Nick > > On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 8:26:10 AM UTC-7 Nicholas Stock wrote: > >> There's always the MOD_6 in case you're not familiar with it... I believe >> Michael may have some left? >> >> http://badnixie.com/Badnixie.com_Welcome.html >> >> @Michael Barile ? >> >> Cheers, >> >> Nick >> >> On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 8:05 AM Chachi88 <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> Richard, >>> >>> Thanks I will PM >>> >>> gregebert, >>> >>> Funny you should mention the B7971, in this lot with the NL8091s I also >>> received an armload of these tubes (they actually have the same socket), >>> funnily enough... You wouldn't happen to have a FLW clock design using >>> your circuitry available? That will be next on my hit-list and I will need >>> kits to make 3 clocks (one will be a gift to the person who gave me all >>> these tubes). >>> >>> Thanks so much for your help, folks. >>> On Thursday, September 19, 2024 at 2:32:49 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales wrote: >>> >>>> I think I have some info at nixology.uk under the PRISM-18 project >>>> page. >>>> >>>> Full NTP Sync (clock needs wifi), web gui, pir activation, >>>> etc/etc/ >>>> >>>> PM me for any more info. >>>> >>>> >>>> - Richard >>>> >>>> On Wednesday 18 September 2024 at 21:33:00 UTC+1 Chachi88 wrote: >>>> >>>>> First off, thank you guys very much for your input here, I will >>>>> address them most recent to oldest. >>>>> >>>>> Peter, >>>>> I apologize I cannot view this link I do not use facebook. I also >>>>> cannot find a link to Richard Scales B-8091 clock PCB that you mention. >>>>> >>>>> Nicholas Stock, >>>>> Thanks a lot for showing me this website, I had come across it also, >>>>> but was discouraged by the "sold out" notification for this board. Is >>>>> there any way I can message the seller, you think? I really like all the >>>>> features this board has already implemented for me...but maybe greg's >>>>> first >>>>> comment is calling my name... >>>>> >>>>> gregebert, >>>>> Thanks for the very informative points, I have addressed my responses >>>>> and followup questions individually below in *Italics.* >>>>> >>>>> #1. I dont like sockets because they put stress on the tube pins. Some >>>>> of them grip the pins very hard and it's difficult to insert or remove >>>>> the >>>>> tubes, which adds to the risk of bending or breaking the pins or putting >>>>> stress on the glass. Instead, I use socket pins soldered into the PCB, >>>>> and >>>>> the force to insert/remove tubes is very low. >>>>> *Point taken, I will look at my sockets carefully before considering >>>>> using them. Otherwise I will probably borrow your idea, cheers.* >>>>> >>>>> #2. Direct drive. There's no need to multiplex individual tubes, and >>>>> there's no cost benefit when tubes are worth hundreds of dollars apiece >>>>> and >>>>> the drive electronics is at most a few dollars. Multiplexing requires >>>>> higher current, and that degrades the tube's lifetime. >>>>> *This is what I have understood as well, thanks for confirming.* >>>>> >>>>> #3. Use a current regulator, and set the current at the recommended >>>>> spec value; too high and you wear-out the tube. Too low and you risk >>>>> cathode poisoning. A single anode resistor per-tube is OK, but as the >>>>> anode >>>>> voltage varies, so does the current (no such problem with a current >>>>> regulator, though). You can mitigate this by using a higher anode supply >>>>> voltage and larger anode resistor, at the expense of more wasted energy. >>>>> As >>>>> tubes age, their striking voltage may increase, so having a higher anode >>>>> voltage will help mitigate this. >>>>> *Understood, is this implemented a current regulator per tube or is >>>>> this a single current regulator? If single current regulator, how do you >>>>> account for possibly having varying current with different digit >>>>> activation? or am I missing an operating principle here?* >>>>> >>>>> #4. PIR sensor. Turn off the tubes if nobody is there to watch them. >>>>> *This will definitely be part of the overall clock design (also >>>>> incorporating a Noritake Itron 20 character 5x7 VFD). I plan on having a >>>>> smoked plexiglass case housing the electronics and VFD while mounting the >>>>> nixie tubes on top. Which leads on to our next point...* >>>>> >>>>> #5. Protect the tubes inside a case, and make sure there is enough >>>>> ventilation so the heat doesn't build-up inside. On my later designs I >>>>> have >>>>> a thermal sensor (sometimes several) so that software can monitor >>>>> critical >>>>> temperatures and shutdown if things get too warm. >>>>> *If the tubes are always going to be high up in the air (on a >>>>> dedicated wall shelf), is casing them necessary? Could not casing them >>>>> cause convection heat to rise around them and risk stressing the glass? >>>>> The thermal sensor is a good idea, for the inside of my case I will >>>>> certainly implement this, probably in multiple spots as you suggested. >>>>> Do >>>>> people ever put thermocouples on the tubes themselves to monitor heat or >>>>> could you see value in it? I might consider that in my design.* >>>>> >>>>> #6. Depoisoning routine to exercise all cathodes. >>>>> *This is not the first time I have read of depoisoning (a common >>>>> feature on most bonafide driver boards I have seen). I have also seen >>>>> there >>>>> are different marketed techniques for depoisoning: slot machine, strobe, >>>>> etc...* >>>>> *What are the principles behind cathode poisoning and the theory of >>>>> prevention? If this has already been documented somewhere please give me >>>>> strength on my journey you send me on.* >>>>> >>>>> #7. Backlighting (or base lighting). I havn't done this on any of my >>>>> clocks, and I've never had problems with tubes not firing-up. Others have >>>>> reported problems without backlighting. It can have aesthetic value, >>>>> though >>>>> I'm not fond of it. >>>>> *I tend to agree with you, for me, this was considered aesthetically >>>>> not necessary, but if there is value in ensuring operation, I will plan >>>>> on >>>>> incorporating this in the design even if it is left partially implemented >>>>> in hardware or neglected in software...* >>>>> >>>>> That should cover the necessities for the tubes; there are always lots >>>>> of other features that can be done, especially if the clock has >>>>> open-source >>>>> software (or you develop it on your own). >>>>> >>>>> *Thank you again sincerely for expounding this much on this, I in the >>>>> end, I am hoping to find a clock/driver board with open source software >>>>> or >>>>> just raw signal input pins exposed that way I can incorporate it in with >>>>> my >>>>> VFD with minimal additional effort expounded on the nixie driver block >>>>> (because it has already been done probably way better than I would do it >>>>> on >>>>> a first pass). I can then address it, animate it, etc. with a >>>>> microcontroller of my own...* >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 11:05:11 AM UTC-4 Nicholas Stock >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Pete also has a remote driver system that will work with B8091s... >>>>>> >>>>>> https://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=43 >>>>>> >>>>>> Nick >>>>>> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>> >>>>>> On Sep 18, 2024, at 07:16, Peter Doroba <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> This is the clock I made using Richard Scales B-8091 clock PCB. >>>>>> >>>>>> https://www.facebook.com/groups/142414439207058/search/?q=b-8091 >>>>>> >>>>>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 12:41:14 AM UTC-4 gregebert wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Those are very valuable tubes, so if you are willing to design your >>>>>>> own driver and the PC board, I would do that. I've made several clocks >>>>>>> and >>>>>>> never had a design problem that affected the tubes. Even if you find a >>>>>>> board to purchase, see if any of the following apply: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Some of my suggestions: >>>>>>> #1. I dont like sockets because they put stress on the tube pins. >>>>>>> Some of them grip the pins very hard and it's difficult to insert or >>>>>>> remove >>>>>>> the tubes, which adds to the risk of bending or breaking the pins or >>>>>>> putting stress on the glass. Instead, I use socket pins soldered into >>>>>>> the >>>>>>> PCB, and the force to insert/remove tubes is very low. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> #2. Direct drive. There's no need to multiplex individual tubes, and >>>>>>> there's no cost benefit when tubes are worth hundreds of dollars apiece >>>>>>> and >>>>>>> the drive electronics is at most a few dollars. Multiplexing requires >>>>>>> higher current, and that degrades the tube's lifetime. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> #3. Use a current regulator, and set the current at the recommended >>>>>>> spec value; too high and you wear-out the tube. Too low and you risk >>>>>>> cathode poisoning. A single anode resistor per-tube is OK, but as the >>>>>>> anode >>>>>>> voltage varies, so does the current (no such problem with a current >>>>>>> regulator, though). You can mitigate this by using a higher anode >>>>>>> supply >>>>>>> voltage and larger anode resistor, at the expense of more wasted >>>>>>> energy. As >>>>>>> tubes age, their striking voltage may increase, so having a higher >>>>>>> anode >>>>>>> voltage will help mitigate this. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> #4. PIR sensor. Turn off the tubes if nobody is there to watch them. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> #5. Protect the tubes inside a case, and make sure there is enough >>>>>>> ventilation so the heat doesn't build-up inside. On my later designs I >>>>>>> have >>>>>>> a thermal sensor (sometimes several) so that software can monitor >>>>>>> critical >>>>>>> temperatures and shutdown if things get too warm. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> #6. Depoisoning routine to exercise all cathodes. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> #7. Backlighting (or base lighting). I havn't done this on any of my >>>>>>> clocks, and I've never had problems with tubes not firing-up. Others >>>>>>> have >>>>>>> reported problems without backlighting. It can have aesthetic value, >>>>>>> though >>>>>>> I'm not fond of it. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> That should cover the necessities for the tubes; there are always >>>>>>> lots of other features that can be done, especially if the clock has >>>>>>> open-source software (or you develop it on your own). >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 8:17:28 PM UTC-7 Chachi88 wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I am climbing stairs from the foot of the mountain to sit at the >>>>>>>> feet of all you nixie gurus. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> What is the current state of the art for remote driver boards? I >>>>>>>> am aware some of the older drivers are not as reliable or can cause >>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> tubes to degrade quicker. Some of the new options I am seeing have >>>>>>>> "cathode poisoning prevention" I have recently come upon qty 6 of the >>>>>>>> NL8091's and their original sockets and socket mounting plate, which I >>>>>>>> wish >>>>>>>> to reuse for a clock. Are there any off the shelf boards even capable >>>>>>>> of >>>>>>>> driving this tube? I was looking at a board on ebay that comes with >>>>>>>> an IR >>>>>>>> remote but it seems too good to be true, I would be willing to spend 5 >>>>>>>> times as much for a board that was properly documented and put >>>>>>>> together and >>>>>>>> had some sort of pedigree... >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Thanks in advance for any advice or direction you can give. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, >>>>>> send an email to [email protected]. >>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bac36066-03e6-4a6e-a83a-69020b75572fn%40googlegroups.com >>>>>> >>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bac36066-03e6-4a6e-a83a-69020b75572fn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>> . >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>> an email to [email protected]. >>> >> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/24034a0a-3836-4449-9693-1eb861b77570n%40googlegroups.com >>> >>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/24034a0a-3836-4449-9693-1eb861b77570n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>> . >>> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. 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