https://www.thomasnixie.com/the-gps-flw-nixie-clock
Still available without tubes etc if you're interested... Nick On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 12:31 PM Chachi88 <[email protected]> wrote: > I don't think I have enough tubes to do 3 6-tube clocks. I am also > noticing that all the FLW circuits and boards I am finding seem to be > multiplex drive, which is undesirable from what we have discussed...but I > would love to be proven wrong. If not, there might be an opportunity > here... > > Thanks again y'all. > On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 12:10:01 PM UTC-4 MichaelB wrote: > >> I do. Still 5 or so in stock. Thanks Nick >> >> On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 8:26:10 AM UTC-7 Nicholas Stock wrote: >> >>> There's always the MOD_6 in case you're not familiar with it... I >>> believe Michael may have some left? >>> >>> http://badnixie.com/Badnixie.com_Welcome.html >>> >>> @Michael Barile ? >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Nick >>> >>> On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 8:05 AM Chachi88 <[email protected]> wrote: >>> >>>> Richard, >>>> >>>> Thanks I will PM >>>> >>>> gregebert, >>>> >>>> Funny you should mention the B7971, in this lot with the NL8091s I also >>>> received an armload of these tubes (they actually have the same socket), >>>> funnily enough... You wouldn't happen to have a FLW clock design using >>>> your circuitry available? That will be next on my hit-list and I will need >>>> kits to make 3 clocks (one will be a gift to the person who gave me all >>>> these tubes). >>>> >>>> Thanks so much for your help, folks. >>>> On Thursday, September 19, 2024 at 2:32:49 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I think I have some info at nixology.uk under the PRISM-18 project >>>>> page. >>>>> >>>>> Full NTP Sync (clock needs wifi), web gui, pir activation, >>>>> etc/etc/ >>>>> >>>>> PM me for any more info. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> - Richard >>>>> >>>>> On Wednesday 18 September 2024 at 21:33:00 UTC+1 Chachi88 wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> First off, thank you guys very much for your input here, I will >>>>>> address them most recent to oldest. >>>>>> >>>>>> Peter, >>>>>> I apologize I cannot view this link I do not use facebook. I also >>>>>> cannot find a link to Richard Scales B-8091 clock PCB that you mention. >>>>>> >>>>>> Nicholas Stock, >>>>>> Thanks a lot for showing me this website, I had come across it also, >>>>>> but was discouraged by the "sold out" notification for this board. Is >>>>>> there any way I can message the seller, you think? I really like all the >>>>>> features this board has already implemented for me...but maybe greg's >>>>>> first >>>>>> comment is calling my name... >>>>>> >>>>>> gregebert, >>>>>> Thanks for the very informative points, I have addressed my responses >>>>>> and followup questions individually below in *Italics.* >>>>>> >>>>>> #1. I dont like sockets because they put stress on the tube pins. >>>>>> Some of them grip the pins very hard and it's difficult to insert or >>>>>> remove >>>>>> the tubes, which adds to the risk of bending or breaking the pins or >>>>>> putting stress on the glass. Instead, I use socket pins soldered into the >>>>>> PCB, and the force to insert/remove tubes is very low. >>>>>> *Point taken, I will look at my sockets carefully before considering >>>>>> using them. Otherwise I will probably borrow your idea, cheers.* >>>>>> >>>>>> #2. Direct drive. There's no need to multiplex individual tubes, and >>>>>> there's no cost benefit when tubes are worth hundreds of dollars apiece >>>>>> and >>>>>> the drive electronics is at most a few dollars. Multiplexing requires >>>>>> higher current, and that degrades the tube's lifetime. >>>>>> *This is what I have understood as well, thanks for confirming.* >>>>>> >>>>>> #3. Use a current regulator, and set the current at the recommended >>>>>> spec value; too high and you wear-out the tube. Too low and you risk >>>>>> cathode poisoning. A single anode resistor per-tube is OK, but as the >>>>>> anode >>>>>> voltage varies, so does the current (no such problem with a current >>>>>> regulator, though). You can mitigate this by using a higher anode supply >>>>>> voltage and larger anode resistor, at the expense of more wasted energy. >>>>>> As >>>>>> tubes age, their striking voltage may increase, so having a higher anode >>>>>> voltage will help mitigate this. >>>>>> *Understood, is this implemented a current regulator per tube or is >>>>>> this a single current regulator? If single current regulator, how do you >>>>>> account for possibly having varying current with different digit >>>>>> activation? or am I missing an operating principle here?* >>>>>> >>>>>> #4. PIR sensor. Turn off the tubes if nobody is there to watch them. >>>>>> *This will definitely be part of the overall clock design (also >>>>>> incorporating a Noritake Itron 20 character 5x7 VFD). I plan on having a >>>>>> smoked plexiglass case housing the electronics and VFD while mounting the >>>>>> nixie tubes on top. Which leads on to our next point...* >>>>>> >>>>>> #5. Protect the tubes inside a case, and make sure there is enough >>>>>> ventilation so the heat doesn't build-up inside. On my later designs I >>>>>> have >>>>>> a thermal sensor (sometimes several) so that software can monitor >>>>>> critical >>>>>> temperatures and shutdown if things get too warm. >>>>>> *If the tubes are always going to be high up in the air (on a >>>>>> dedicated wall shelf), is casing them necessary? Could not casing them >>>>>> cause convection heat to rise around them and risk stressing the glass? >>>>>> The thermal sensor is a good idea, for the inside of my case I will >>>>>> certainly implement this, probably in multiple spots as you suggested. >>>>>> Do >>>>>> people ever put thermocouples on the tubes themselves to monitor heat or >>>>>> could you see value in it? I might consider that in my design.* >>>>>> >>>>>> #6. Depoisoning routine to exercise all cathodes. >>>>>> *This is not the first time I have read of depoisoning (a common >>>>>> feature on most bonafide driver boards I have seen). I have also seen >>>>>> there >>>>>> are different marketed techniques for depoisoning: slot machine, strobe, >>>>>> etc...* >>>>>> *What are the principles behind cathode poisoning and the theory of >>>>>> prevention? If this has already been documented somewhere please give me >>>>>> strength on my journey you send me on.* >>>>>> >>>>>> #7. Backlighting (or base lighting). I havn't done this on any of my >>>>>> clocks, and I've never had problems with tubes not firing-up. Others have >>>>>> reported problems without backlighting. It can have aesthetic value, >>>>>> though >>>>>> I'm not fond of it. >>>>>> *I tend to agree with you, for me, this was considered aesthetically >>>>>> not necessary, but if there is value in ensuring operation, I will plan >>>>>> on >>>>>> incorporating this in the design even if it is left partially implemented >>>>>> in hardware or neglected in software...* >>>>>> >>>>>> That should cover the necessities for the tubes; there are always >>>>>> lots of other features that can be done, especially if the clock has >>>>>> open-source software (or you develop it on your own). >>>>>> >>>>>> *Thank you again sincerely for expounding this much on this, I in the >>>>>> end, I am hoping to find a clock/driver board with open source software >>>>>> or >>>>>> just raw signal input pins exposed that way I can incorporate it in with >>>>>> my >>>>>> VFD with minimal additional effort expounded on the nixie driver block >>>>>> (because it has already been done probably way better than I would do it >>>>>> on >>>>>> a first pass). I can then address it, animate it, etc. with a >>>>>> microcontroller of my own...* >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 11:05:11 AM UTC-4 Nicholas Stock >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Pete also has a remote driver system that will work with B8091s... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> https://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=43 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Nick >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Sep 18, 2024, at 07:16, Peter Doroba <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> This is the clock I made using Richard Scales B-8091 clock PCB. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> https://www.facebook.com/groups/142414439207058/search/?q=b-8091 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 12:41:14 AM UTC-4 gregebert >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Those are very valuable tubes, so if you are willing to design your >>>>>>>> own driver and the PC board, I would do that. I've made several clocks >>>>>>>> and >>>>>>>> never had a design problem that affected the tubes. Even if you find a >>>>>>>> board to purchase, see if any of the following apply: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Some of my suggestions: >>>>>>>> #1. I dont like sockets because they put stress on the tube pins. >>>>>>>> Some of them grip the pins very hard and it's difficult to insert or >>>>>>>> remove >>>>>>>> the tubes, which adds to the risk of bending or breaking the pins or >>>>>>>> putting stress on the glass. Instead, I use socket pins soldered into >>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>> PCB, and the force to insert/remove tubes is very low. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> #2. Direct drive. There's no need to multiplex individual tubes, >>>>>>>> and there's no cost benefit when tubes are worth hundreds of dollars >>>>>>>> apiece >>>>>>>> and the drive electronics is at most a few dollars. Multiplexing >>>>>>>> requires >>>>>>>> higher current, and that degrades the tube's lifetime. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> #3. Use a current regulator, and set the current at the recommended >>>>>>>> spec value; too high and you wear-out the tube. Too low and you risk >>>>>>>> cathode poisoning. A single anode resistor per-tube is OK, but as the >>>>>>>> anode >>>>>>>> voltage varies, so does the current (no such problem with a current >>>>>>>> regulator, though). You can mitigate this by using a higher anode >>>>>>>> supply >>>>>>>> voltage and larger anode resistor, at the expense of more wasted >>>>>>>> energy. As >>>>>>>> tubes age, their striking voltage may increase, so having a higher >>>>>>>> anode >>>>>>>> voltage will help mitigate this. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> #4. PIR sensor. Turn off the tubes if nobody is there to watch them. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> #5. Protect the tubes inside a case, and make sure there is enough >>>>>>>> ventilation so the heat doesn't build-up inside. On my later designs I >>>>>>>> have >>>>>>>> a thermal sensor (sometimes several) so that software can monitor >>>>>>>> critical >>>>>>>> temperatures and shutdown if things get too warm. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> #6. Depoisoning routine to exercise all cathodes. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> #7. Backlighting (or base lighting). I havn't done this on any of >>>>>>>> my clocks, and I've never had problems with tubes not firing-up. Others >>>>>>>> have reported problems without backlighting. It can have aesthetic >>>>>>>> value, >>>>>>>> though I'm not fond of it. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> That should cover the necessities for the tubes; there are always >>>>>>>> lots of other features that can be done, especially if the clock has >>>>>>>> open-source software (or you develop it on your own). >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 8:17:28 PM UTC-7 Chachi88 wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> I am climbing stairs from the foot of the mountain to sit at the >>>>>>>>> feet of all you nixie gurus. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> What is the current state of the art for remote driver boards? I >>>>>>>>> am aware some of the older drivers are not as reliable or can cause >>>>>>>>> the >>>>>>>>> tubes to degrade quicker. Some of the new options I am seeing have >>>>>>>>> "cathode poisoning prevention" I have recently come upon qty 6 of the >>>>>>>>> NL8091's and their original sockets and socket mounting plate, which >>>>>>>>> I wish >>>>>>>>> to reuse for a clock. Are there any off the shelf boards even capable >>>>>>>>> of >>>>>>>>> driving this tube? I was looking at a board on ebay that comes with >>>>>>>>> an IR >>>>>>>>> remote but it seems too good to be true, I would be willing to spend 5 >>>>>>>>> times as much for a board that was properly documented and put >>>>>>>>> together and >>>>>>>>> had some sort of pedigree... >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Thanks in advance for any advice or direction you can give. >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, >>>>>>> send an email to [email protected]. >>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bac36066-03e6-4a6e-a83a-69020b75572fn%40googlegroups.com >>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bac36066-03e6-4a6e-a83a-69020b75572fn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>>> . >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to [email protected]. >>>> >>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/24034a0a-3836-4449-9693-1eb861b77570n%40googlegroups.com >>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/24034a0a-3836-4449-9693-1eb861b77570n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>> . >>>> >>> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/6c53bfce-70bc-406b-8b68-04bb086d14a8n%40googlegroups.com > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/6c53bfce-70bc-406b-8b68-04bb086d14a8n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAOX%2BRH%2BWyJnJTbXhRPFXnP5DCXK1KSjwGPqLtPvO_UotHbMtXw%40mail.gmail.com.
