I do. Still 5 or so in stock. Thanks Nick On Monday, September 23, 2024 at 8:26:10 AM UTC-7 Nicholas Stock wrote:
> There's always the MOD_6 in case you're not familiar with it... I believe > Michael may have some left? > > http://badnixie.com/Badnixie.com_Welcome.html > > @Michael Barile ? > > Cheers, > > Nick > > On Mon, Sep 23, 2024 at 8:05 AM Chachi88 <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Richard, >> >> Thanks I will PM >> >> gregebert, >> >> Funny you should mention the B7971, in this lot with the NL8091s I also >> received an armload of these tubes (they actually have the same socket), >> funnily enough... You wouldn't happen to have a FLW clock design using >> your circuitry available? That will be next on my hit-list and I will need >> kits to make 3 clocks (one will be a gift to the person who gave me all >> these tubes). >> >> Thanks so much for your help, folks. >> On Thursday, September 19, 2024 at 2:32:49 AM UTC-4 Richard Scales wrote: >> >>> I think I have some info at nixology.uk under the PRISM-18 project page. >>> >>> Full NTP Sync (clock needs wifi), web gui, pir activation, >>> etc/etc/ >>> >>> PM me for any more info. >>> >>> >>> - Richard >>> >>> On Wednesday 18 September 2024 at 21:33:00 UTC+1 Chachi88 wrote: >>> >>>> First off, thank you guys very much for your input here, I will address >>>> them most recent to oldest. >>>> >>>> Peter, >>>> I apologize I cannot view this link I do not use facebook. I also >>>> cannot find a link to Richard Scales B-8091 clock PCB that you mention. >>>> >>>> Nicholas Stock, >>>> Thanks a lot for showing me this website, I had come across it also, >>>> but was discouraged by the "sold out" notification for this board. Is >>>> there any way I can message the seller, you think? I really like all the >>>> features this board has already implemented for me...but maybe greg's >>>> first >>>> comment is calling my name... >>>> >>>> gregebert, >>>> Thanks for the very informative points, I have addressed my responses >>>> and followup questions individually below in *Italics.* >>>> >>>> #1. I dont like sockets because they put stress on the tube pins. Some >>>> of them grip the pins very hard and it's difficult to insert or remove the >>>> tubes, which adds to the risk of bending or breaking the pins or putting >>>> stress on the glass. Instead, I use socket pins soldered into the PCB, and >>>> the force to insert/remove tubes is very low. >>>> *Point taken, I will look at my sockets carefully before considering >>>> using them. Otherwise I will probably borrow your idea, cheers.* >>>> >>>> #2. Direct drive. There's no need to multiplex individual tubes, and >>>> there's no cost benefit when tubes are worth hundreds of dollars apiece >>>> and >>>> the drive electronics is at most a few dollars. Multiplexing requires >>>> higher current, and that degrades the tube's lifetime. >>>> *This is what I have understood as well, thanks for confirming.* >>>> >>>> #3. Use a current regulator, and set the current at the recommended >>>> spec value; too high and you wear-out the tube. Too low and you risk >>>> cathode poisoning. A single anode resistor per-tube is OK, but as the >>>> anode >>>> voltage varies, so does the current (no such problem with a current >>>> regulator, though). You can mitigate this by using a higher anode supply >>>> voltage and larger anode resistor, at the expense of more wasted energy. >>>> As >>>> tubes age, their striking voltage may increase, so having a higher anode >>>> voltage will help mitigate this. >>>> *Understood, is this implemented a current regulator per tube or is >>>> this a single current regulator? If single current regulator, how do you >>>> account for possibly having varying current with different digit >>>> activation? or am I missing an operating principle here?* >>>> >>>> #4. PIR sensor. Turn off the tubes if nobody is there to watch them. >>>> *This will definitely be part of the overall clock design (also >>>> incorporating a Noritake Itron 20 character 5x7 VFD). I plan on having a >>>> smoked plexiglass case housing the electronics and VFD while mounting the >>>> nixie tubes on top. Which leads on to our next point...* >>>> >>>> #5. Protect the tubes inside a case, and make sure there is enough >>>> ventilation so the heat doesn't build-up inside. On my later designs I >>>> have >>>> a thermal sensor (sometimes several) so that software can monitor critical >>>> temperatures and shutdown if things get too warm. >>>> *If the tubes are always going to be high up in the air (on a dedicated >>>> wall shelf), is casing them necessary? Could not casing them cause >>>> convection heat to rise around them and risk stressing the glass? The >>>> thermal sensor is a good idea, for the inside of my case I will certainly >>>> implement this, probably in multiple spots as you suggested. Do people >>>> ever put thermocouples on the tubes themselves to monitor heat or could >>>> you >>>> see value in it? I might consider that in my design.* >>>> >>>> #6. Depoisoning routine to exercise all cathodes. >>>> *This is not the first time I have read of depoisoning (a common >>>> feature on most bonafide driver boards I have seen). I have also seen >>>> there >>>> are different marketed techniques for depoisoning: slot machine, strobe, >>>> etc...* >>>> *What are the principles behind cathode poisoning and the theory of >>>> prevention? If this has already been documented somewhere please give me >>>> strength on my journey you send me on.* >>>> >>>> #7. Backlighting (or base lighting). I havn't done this on any of my >>>> clocks, and I've never had problems with tubes not firing-up. Others have >>>> reported problems without backlighting. It can have aesthetic value, >>>> though >>>> I'm not fond of it. >>>> *I tend to agree with you, for me, this was considered aesthetically >>>> not necessary, but if there is value in ensuring operation, I will plan on >>>> incorporating this in the design even if it is left partially implemented >>>> in hardware or neglected in software...* >>>> >>>> That should cover the necessities for the tubes; there are always lots >>>> of other features that can be done, especially if the clock has >>>> open-source >>>> software (or you develop it on your own). >>>> >>>> *Thank you again sincerely for expounding this much on this, I in the >>>> end, I am hoping to find a clock/driver board with open source software or >>>> just raw signal input pins exposed that way I can incorporate it in with >>>> my >>>> VFD with minimal additional effort expounded on the nixie driver block >>>> (because it has already been done probably way better than I would do it >>>> on >>>> a first pass). I can then address it, animate it, etc. with a >>>> microcontroller of my own...* >>>> >>>> >>>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 11:05:11 AM UTC-4 Nicholas Stock >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Pete also has a remote driver system that will work with B8091s... >>>>> >>>>> https://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=43 >>>>> >>>>> Nick >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>> On Sep 18, 2024, at 07:16, Peter Doroba <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> This is the clock I made using Richard Scales B-8091 clock PCB. >>>>> >>>>> https://www.facebook.com/groups/142414439207058/search/?q=b-8091 >>>>> >>>>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 12:41:14 AM UTC-4 gregebert wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Those are very valuable tubes, so if you are willing to design your >>>>>> own driver and the PC board, I would do that. I've made several clocks >>>>>> and >>>>>> never had a design problem that affected the tubes. Even if you find a >>>>>> board to purchase, see if any of the following apply: >>>>>> >>>>>> Some of my suggestions: >>>>>> #1. I dont like sockets because they put stress on the tube pins. >>>>>> Some of them grip the pins very hard and it's difficult to insert or >>>>>> remove >>>>>> the tubes, which adds to the risk of bending or breaking the pins or >>>>>> putting stress on the glass. Instead, I use socket pins soldered into >>>>>> the >>>>>> PCB, and the force to insert/remove tubes is very low. >>>>>> >>>>>> #2. Direct drive. There's no need to multiplex individual tubes, and >>>>>> there's no cost benefit when tubes are worth hundreds of dollars apiece >>>>>> and >>>>>> the drive electronics is at most a few dollars. Multiplexing requires >>>>>> higher current, and that degrades the tube's lifetime. >>>>>> >>>>>> #3. Use a current regulator, and set the current at the recommended >>>>>> spec value; too high and you wear-out the tube. Too low and you risk >>>>>> cathode poisoning. A single anode resistor per-tube is OK, but as the >>>>>> anode >>>>>> voltage varies, so does the current (no such problem with a current >>>>>> regulator, though). You can mitigate this by using a higher anode supply >>>>>> voltage and larger anode resistor, at the expense of more wasted energy. >>>>>> As >>>>>> tubes age, their striking voltage may increase, so having a higher anode >>>>>> voltage will help mitigate this. >>>>>> >>>>>> #4. PIR sensor. Turn off the tubes if nobody is there to watch them. >>>>>> >>>>>> #5. Protect the tubes inside a case, and make sure there is enough >>>>>> ventilation so the heat doesn't build-up inside. On my later designs I >>>>>> have >>>>>> a thermal sensor (sometimes several) so that software can monitor >>>>>> critical >>>>>> temperatures and shutdown if things get too warm. >>>>>> >>>>>> #6. Depoisoning routine to exercise all cathodes. >>>>>> >>>>>> #7. Backlighting (or base lighting). I havn't done this on any of my >>>>>> clocks, and I've never had problems with tubes not firing-up. Others >>>>>> have >>>>>> reported problems without backlighting. It can have aesthetic value, >>>>>> though >>>>>> I'm not fond of it. >>>>>> >>>>>> That should cover the necessities for the tubes; there are always >>>>>> lots of other features that can be done, especially if the clock has >>>>>> open-source software (or you develop it on your own). >>>>>> >>>>>> On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 8:17:28 PM UTC-7 Chachi88 wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> I am climbing stairs from the foot of the mountain to sit at the >>>>>>> feet of all you nixie gurus. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> What is the current state of the art for remote driver boards? I am >>>>>>> aware some of the older drivers are not as reliable or can cause the >>>>>>> tubes >>>>>>> to degrade quicker. Some of the new options I am seeing have "cathode >>>>>>> poisoning prevention" I have recently come upon qty 6 of the NL8091's >>>>>>> and >>>>>>> their original sockets and socket mounting plate, which I wish to reuse >>>>>>> for >>>>>>> a clock. Are there any off the shelf boards even capable of driving >>>>>>> this >>>>>>> tube? I was looking at a board on ebay that comes with an IR remote >>>>>>> but it >>>>>>> seems too good to be true, I would be willing to spend 5 times as much >>>>>>> for >>>>>>> a board that was properly documented and put together and had some sort >>>>>>> of >>>>>>> pedigree... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Thanks in advance for any advice or direction you can give. >>>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>>> an email to [email protected]. >>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bac36066-03e6-4a6e-a83a-69020b75572fn%40googlegroups.com >>>>> >>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bac36066-03e6-4a6e-a83a-69020b75572fn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>> . >>>>> >>>>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "neonixie-l" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to [email protected]. >> > To view this discussion on the web, visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/24034a0a-3836-4449-9693-1eb861b77570n%40googlegroups.com >> >> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/24034a0a-3836-4449-9693-1eb861b77570n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >> . >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2665deea-6c50-4835-b9b8-3594a60b8a42n%40googlegroups.com.
