Double check that.  I know only a little about LED’s but they are low load, and 
I believe the resistor goes across the two leads to the LED to increase the 
load, or current consumption.  Putting them in series with the power would 
reduce the voltage/current even more.  Ironically, current operated relays 
require additional load to be added to the circuit, negating the benefit of the 
reduced current.  No resistor needed except for current operated relays.  Why 
not add a “solid state” relay and enjoy the energy savings?

From: Ross M. Jamison 
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 12:13 PM
To: [email protected] 
Cc: [email protected] 
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

Graham,
Check to see that there are NO LED bulbs installed. Led & incandescent will not 
work together. You can make them but you will need a resistor between the led & 
power source.


Thank you,

Ross M. Jamison
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:


  thanks Kurt,  I'll come back to it again later - I have to put my mind on 
something else for a while, it's too boggled,  Graham 

  On Aug 27, 2012, at 9:21 AM, Kurt Nolte wrote:


    Graham, to recap:

    You have swapped the relay, and you know you have four working bulbs.

    The relay supplies power to the signal switch. Internal contacts in the 
switch disconnect the parking light (not supplied by the relay) and connect the 
pathway to the proper signals side. The load of the bulbs draws a certain 
amount of current through the relay, which heats up a metal strip. This causes 
the strip to change shape, breaking the circuit. Current stops flowing, the 
strip cools and makes the circuit to start the cycle all over again.

    If you have an issue with all four signals, the problem must lie somewhere 
upstream of the switch, including the switch itself. 

    When the switch is OFF, you will read voltage at the switch from the relay; 
the meter makes the connection and allows current to flow. If you have voltage 
at the switch, try checking JUST continuity across switch contacts. Unplug the 
wire from the relay; if it is functioning properly you'll just get intermittent 
voltage, which isn't useful for checks.

    Kurt


    On Aug 27, 2012 8:21 AM, "Graham Rogers" <[email protected]> wrote:

      Allen,  I spent a couple of hours at it yesterday afternoon - couldn't 
find it.  I'll try again today and report back.  It seems that I have 12 v from 
the gray wire at the relay to the turn signal bulb but when I activate the turn 
signal it cancels the voltage in the gray wire (which may be it should if the 
gray wire carries voltage to the running lights and the running lights go out 
when activating the turn signal). However the green and white is not hot to the 
bulb when I activate the turn signal. I tried jumping wires from the relay to 
various places along the wire harness. Just give me carbs to clean instead! 
Graham 

      On Aug 26, 2012, at 11:36 PM, Allen Thomas wrote:


        Graham, any luck on finding the bad wire? 
        Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

------------------------------------------------------------------------

        From: "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]> 
        Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:54:49 +0000
        To: Nightwawk Lovers<[email protected]>
        ReplyTo: [email protected] 
        Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

        That is what the givi cases are for. 
        Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

------------------------------------------------------------------------

        From: Kurt Nolte <[email protected]> 
        Sender: [email protected] 
        Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 11:25:24 -0400
        To: <[email protected]>
        ReplyTo: [email protected] 
        Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signal problems - AGAIN ALLEN!

        You crazy lucky people and your blinker parties. I'm nine hours away. 
:/ 

        Javier, where do you fit the cooler on the bike? Inquiring minds...

        -Kurt

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