Sage advice from an abominable wretch! I love radios too, though I don't have any anymore. My first was a Silvertone (I know, I know) AM/78rpm/wire recorder (I said I know!) that I intended to completely re-veneer with a very pronounced grain of some kind... maybe green or purple varnish... *ahem*. Hey, I was young and needed the money. If it hadn't been missing a couple of teeth on the gear that undulated the wire recorder head, I probably would've (egads) finished the thing. I wish now I would have -- with you guys and gals, it would've been worth a good laugh or two. And you KNOW I woulda put it up on eBay at some point.
I did get about 5 pieces of it veneered, though, and Doug's patching advice would've come in handy. Hey Doug, is there any special trick to get the veneer soft enough to really fill the hole exactly, or do you just use extremely thin veneer? Best, Robert ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug" <[email protected]> To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 1:41 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors > Let me insert another thought or two if I may. I'm one of those abominable > wretches who collects and restores those things called Radios. But, the > similarity comes with refinishing or repairing cabinets. > > Firstly, phonographs and radios both never were varnished. While there might > have been an isolated exception, shellac was used prior to 1925, and > nitrocellulose lacquer after that year. There were some hangers-on after > '25, of course. You can use Varnish, of course, but you're just making life > hard for yourself .I used to use varnish, until I learned the facts. > > Now, on the veneer grafting issue. If you want to patch in veneer, first, > you'll want to get a piece that matches the surrounding grain that you are > repairing. Then, with possibly 220 grade wet-dry sandpaper, feather-edge the > periphery of the hole in the cabinet veneer (the area that you're going to > repair). Then, take the patching piece, cut a little bigger than the area > to be filled. and glue it over the hole, overlapping the edges. Clamp it, > using a piece of soft rubber, so as to press the new patch into the > "welled" area. Let it harden, at least overnight. After the glue is well > set, block sand the patch to where it blends into the rest of the veneered > surface. It works like a champ. I',ve done it a few times, and the repair is > all but imperceptable. I use Franklin's Titebond. but there are other good > glues that do just as well. > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bob" <[email protected]> > To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:55 AM > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors > > > > Matching old finishes is pretty tricky. I find the best way to do this is > > to use old veneer that is similar the original used on the piece. I try > > to > > save veneer from old pieces that are too far gone to restore. Most old > > veneer is finished with a stain varnish. It can be sanded off easily. > > The > > key is not to remove the filler in the veneer.. I cut the section to be > > patched with razor blade held at a 45 degree angle. Then I feather sand > > the > > edge of the patch at a similar angle. If the veneer is too thick, sand it > > form the back side with coarse sandpaper. When it fits properly you can > > glue it in with white glue. You can then use any stain you like to darken > > the patch to match the piece if necessary. I usually use gel stains that > > can be wiped on with a rag. After a few minutes you can wipe off the > > excess. The more you remove the lighter the color will be. When your > > satisfied with the color you can clear coat the area to achieve a gloss > > similar to the rest of the piece. The clear coat may darken the color a > > little so it's best to make some sample pieces with both the stain and > > clear > > coast finish on them before you finish the patches on your piece. I think > > this technique will also work on a complete piece if you can find a piece > > of > > old veneer large enough to cover a new piece of wood. > > RMV > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Mark Albertson" <[email protected]> > > To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> > > Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 11:30 PM > > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors > > > > > >> Ken: > >> > >> I see that no one is jumping in here. So I will try to give you some > >> pointers. > >> > >> Each collector has his or her preference as to finishes. Some use > >> original > >> shellac (orange or clear). Others like oils, and yet others like lacquer > >> based products for big jobs such as cabinets or uprights. When it comes > >> to > >> these choices, the size of the job matters as does what one is most > >> comfortable with. The application also matters...ie: spray vs. rubbed on > >> vs. ragged on. > >> > >> So, choosing your refinishing medium is really a personal choice as to > >> what > >> your comfortable with and trying to accomplish. > >> > >> By the sounds of it, you have original finish machines that need a > >> replacement board here or there and the question is how to "match" > >> finishes...new to the old. Well, my experience suggests a great deal of > >> patience, a practice board, and a variety of lighting conditions. > >> Patience > >> is obvious as is a practice board identical to the wood you will be > >> working > >> with. Different lighting (natural vs. fluorescent, vs. incandescent) > >> will > >> cause colors to act differently, so it's important to go slow and check > >> in > >> different lights at different times using the medium of your choice. But > >> you need a product to mix with your shellac, minwax oil etc........read > >> on. > >> > >> I have found that the best product for dialing in and matching finishes > >> is > >> an alcohol based anyline dye specifically made by the Wood Finish Supply > >> Company. They sell a metalized extract concentrate dye mixed in MEK. > >> The > >> advantage of these dyes is that they dissolve in any base medium you like > >> to > >> work in (shellac, oil, lacquer..etc.) and come in a host of colors for > >> very > >> precise color control (one drop at a time). In addition, the company > >> provides baseline quantity combinations for most wood colors you will be > >> seeking. I would recommend starting with four colors...black, warm > >> brown, > >> yellow, and red.....each in 8oz bottles). From there you can nail down > >> most > >> all the colors we see in phonos except green oak. > >> > >> Used alone, the dye will flash off and evaporate too fast for custom > >> applications, so you need to use a baseline medium and then add dye drops > >> to > >> that for your precision control of color. > >> > >> Again, take a spoonful of patience before starting and have fun. > >> > >> You can check out Wood Finish Supply Co. at www.woodfinishsupply.com I > >> would > >> also suggest calling them. They are very helpful. Again, the product is > >> "Metalized Extract Concentrate Dye in MEK"....Get the four colors to > >> start. > >> > >> Best > >> > >> Mark Albertson > >> > >> > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Ken Danckaert" <[email protected]> > >> To: <[email protected]> > >> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 3:57 PM > >> Subject: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors > >> > >> > >>>I can do almost anything with metal but I have a devil of a time with > >>> the cases. When you have to make a new wood part for a cabinet, it is > >>> really difficult to color match close to the original. I would really > >>> like to see suggestions from you all on how you get wood parts to > >>> match. Maybe someone knows a good source for stains or finishes that > >>> help you get a match. Is there a magical technique out there? My brute > >>> strength approaches usually get me close but they are very time > >>> consuming and chancy. Any suggestions? > >>> > >>> Ken Danckaert > >>> Severna Park, MD > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Phono-L mailing list > >>> [email protected] > >>> > >>> Phono-L Archive > >>> http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Phono-L mailing list > >> [email protected] > >> > >> Phono-L Archive > >> http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ > >> > >> > >> -- > >> No virus found in this incoming message. > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition. > >> Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.0/248 - Release Date: 2/1/2006 > >> > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Phono-L mailing list > > [email protected] > > > > Phono-L Archive > > http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Phono-L mailing list > [email protected] > > Phono-L Archive > http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ >
