Not rerally thin stuff. You'll want to use veneer pieces at least as thick as the original . When you clamp it down, it will sink into the little well in the existing veneer. That's why you use a soft rubber piece to push it into place when it's glued and clamped.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Wright" <[email protected]> To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 3:10 PM Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors > Sage advice from an abominable wretch! I love radios too, though I don't > have any anymore. My first was a Silvertone (I know, I know) > AM/78rpm/wire > recorder (I said I know!) that I intended to completely re-veneer with a > very pronounced grain of some kind... maybe green or purple varnish... > *ahem*. Hey, I was young and needed the money. If it hadn't been missing > a > couple of teeth on the gear that undulated the wire recorder head, I > probably would've (egads) finished the thing. I wish now I would have -- > with you guys and gals, it would've been worth a good laugh or two. And > you > KNOW I woulda put it up on eBay at some point. > > I did get about 5 pieces of it veneered, though, and Doug's patching > advice > would've come in handy. Hey Doug, is there any special trick to get the > veneer soft enough to really fill the hole exactly, or do you just use > extremely thin veneer? > > Best, > Robert > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Doug" <[email protected]> > To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> > Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 1:41 PM > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors > > >> Let me insert another thought or two if I may. I'm one of those >> abominable >> wretches who collects and restores those things called Radios. But, the >> similarity comes with refinishing or repairing cabinets. >> >> Firstly, phonographs and radios both never were varnished. While there > might >> have been an isolated exception, shellac was used prior to 1925, and >> nitrocellulose lacquer after that year. There were some hangers-on after >> '25, of course. You can use Varnish, of course, but you're just making > life >> hard for yourself .I used to use varnish, until I learned the facts. >> >> Now, on the veneer grafting issue. If you want to patch in veneer, first, >> you'll want to get a piece that matches the surrounding grain that you >> are >> repairing. Then, with possibly 220 grade wet-dry sandpaper, feather-edge > the >> periphery of the hole in the cabinet veneer (the area that you're going > to >> repair). Then, take the patching piece, cut a little bigger than the >> area >> to be filled. and glue it over the hole, overlapping the edges. Clamp it, >> using a piece of soft rubber, so as to press the new patch into the >> "welled" area. Let it harden, at least overnight. After the glue is well >> set, block sand the patch to where it blends into the rest of the >> veneered >> surface. It works like a champ. I',ve done it a few times, and the repair > is >> all but imperceptable. I use Franklin's Titebond. but there are other >> good >> glues that do just as well. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "bob" <[email protected]> >> To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> >> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 11:55 AM >> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors >> >> >> > Matching old finishes is pretty tricky. I find the best way to do this > is >> > to use old veneer that is similar the original used on the piece. I >> > try >> > to >> > save veneer from old pieces that are too far gone to restore. Most old >> > veneer is finished with a stain varnish. It can be sanded off easily. >> > The >> > key is not to remove the filler in the veneer.. I cut the section to >> > be >> > patched with razor blade held at a 45 degree angle. Then I feather >> > sand >> > the >> > edge of the patch at a similar angle. If the veneer is too thick, sand > it >> > form the back side with coarse sandpaper. When it fits properly you >> > can >> > glue it in with white glue. You can then use any stain you like to > darken >> > the patch to match the piece if necessary. I usually use gel stains > that >> > can be wiped on with a rag. After a few minutes you can wipe off the >> > excess. The more you remove the lighter the color will be. When your >> > satisfied with the color you can clear coat the area to achieve a gloss >> > similar to the rest of the piece. The clear coat may darken the color >> > a >> > little so it's best to make some sample pieces with both the stain and >> > clear >> > coast finish on them before you finish the patches on your piece. I > think >> > this technique will also work on a complete piece if you can find a > piece >> > of >> > old veneer large enough to cover a new piece of wood. >> > RMV >> > ----- Original Message ----- >> > From: "Mark Albertson" <[email protected]> >> > To: "Antique Phonograph List" <[email protected]> >> > Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 11:30 PM >> > Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain > colors >> > >> > >> >> Ken: >> >> >> >> I see that no one is jumping in here. So I will try to give you some >> >> pointers. >> >> >> >> Each collector has his or her preference as to finishes. Some use >> >> original >> >> shellac (orange or clear). Others like oils, and yet others like > lacquer >> >> based products for big jobs such as cabinets or uprights. When it > comes >> >> to >> >> these choices, the size of the job matters as does what one is most >> >> comfortable with. The application also matters...ie: spray vs. rubbed > on >> >> vs. ragged on. >> >> >> >> So, choosing your refinishing medium is really a personal choice as to >> >> what >> >> your comfortable with and trying to accomplish. >> >> >> >> By the sounds of it, you have original finish machines that need a >> >> replacement board here or there and the question is how to "match" >> >> finishes...new to the old. Well, my experience suggests a great deal > of >> >> patience, a practice board, and a variety of lighting conditions. >> >> Patience >> >> is obvious as is a practice board identical to the wood you will be >> >> working >> >> with. Different lighting (natural vs. fluorescent, vs. incandescent) >> >> will >> >> cause colors to act differently, so it's important to go slow and >> >> check >> >> in >> >> different lights at different times using the medium of your choice. > But >> >> you need a product to mix with your shellac, minwax oil >> >> etc........read >> >> on. >> >> >> >> I have found that the best product for dialing in and matching >> >> finishes >> >> is >> >> an alcohol based anyline dye specifically made by the Wood Finish > Supply >> >> Company. They sell a metalized extract concentrate dye mixed in MEK. >> >> The >> >> advantage of these dyes is that they dissolve in any base medium you > like >> >> to >> >> work in (shellac, oil, lacquer..etc.) and come in a host of colors for >> >> very >> >> precise color control (one drop at a time). In addition, the company >> >> provides baseline quantity combinations for most wood colors you will > be >> >> seeking. I would recommend starting with four colors...black, warm >> >> brown, >> >> yellow, and red.....each in 8oz bottles). From there you can nail >> >> down >> >> most >> >> all the colors we see in phonos except green oak. >> >> >> >> Used alone, the dye will flash off and evaporate too fast for custom >> >> applications, so you need to use a baseline medium and then add dye > drops >> >> to >> >> that for your precision control of color. >> >> >> >> Again, take a spoonful of patience before starting and have fun. >> >> >> >> You can check out Wood Finish Supply Co. at www.woodfinishsupply.com I >> >> would >> >> also suggest calling them. They are very helpful. Again, the product > is >> >> "Metalized Extract Concentrate Dye in MEK"....Get the four colors to >> >> start. >> >> >> >> Best >> >> >> >> Mark Albertson >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> From: "Ken Danckaert" <[email protected]> >> >> To: <[email protected]> >> >> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 3:57 PM >> >> Subject: [Phono-L] Need advice on finishing and matching stain colors >> >> >> >> >> >>>I can do almost anything with metal but I have a devil of a time with >> >>> the cases. When you have to make a new wood part for a cabinet, it >> >>> is >> >>> really difficult to color match close to the original. I would >> >>> really >> >>> like to see suggestions from you all on how you get wood parts to >> >>> match. Maybe someone knows a good source for stains or finishes that >> >>> help you get a match. Is there a magical technique out there? My > brute >> >>> strength approaches usually get me close but they are very time >> >>> consuming and chancy. Any suggestions? >> >>> >> >>> Ken Danckaert >> >>> Severna Park, MD >> >>> _______________________________________________ >> >>> Phono-L mailing list >> >>> [email protected] >> >>> >> >>> Phono-L Archive >> >>> http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Phono-L mailing list >> >> [email protected] >> >> >> >> Phono-L Archive >> >> http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> >> Checked by AVG Free Edition. >> >> Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.0/248 - Release Date: > 2/1/2006 >> >> >> >> >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Phono-L mailing list >> > [email protected] >> > >> > Phono-L Archive >> > http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Phono-L mailing list >> [email protected] >> >> Phono-L Archive >> http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ >> > _______________________________________________ > Phono-L mailing list > [email protected] > > Phono-L Archive > http://www.oldcrank.org/pipermail/phono-l/ >
