At our scale and power, when running over various types of terrain,
including tall grass, dirt, tree roots, rocks, gravel and mud, we've
learned that tracks with a solid face work best. That is, the track
should be a "plate" (with or without traction grooves/ridges) that
prevents stuff from getting caught. Otherwise, the track will dig into
the ground too much, making it harder to turn and/or jamming/throwing
the track.
As Joe pointed out, we've also learned that a taller, thicker guide
tooth helps to prevent throwing tracks in rough terrain.
Finally, given the sheer abuse we put on vehicles, the track links
themselves (where the pin goes through) need to be thick enough to take
the abuse. If I recall properly (Joe can tell for sure), the Hetzer
(which has been running on plastic tracks for 10 years in heavy
battling) has never broken a track link. So, if you use similar
dimensions (or slightly larger) for your pin/link assembly, with a solid
plate design and taller/beefier tooth, then you should have the
necessary robustness for our hobby. Joe can give you the diameter of
the link through which the pin goes on his tracks.
On 3/7/2013 10:51 AM, [email protected] wrote:
FINALLY "Tracks": I will not make much comment here because I do NOT
know the survivability of FOA tracks. Our tracks are made of ABS
plastic.
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