Re: Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[svpegasus38]

I just did my Windows and rounded the edges of the plexiglass to give more 
sealing surface. The tape is where the strength comes from.I love the final 
product. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Alan Liles via CnC-ListDate: Tue, Jun 7, 
2016 11:47To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Alan Liles;Subject:Re: Stus-List Cabin 
window replacement, again
By "glue joint" I mean the overlap area created by the difference between the 
size of the widow and the size of the hole the window is covering. This area is 
narrow especially at the bottom of the window, 1/2" or so. The VHB tape is 1/2" 
wide, leaving no room for sealant. I could cut the tape to 1/4" leaving 1/4" 
for sealant but I'm wondering if that will be strong enough. I could make the 
window larger and thus the overlap larger as well but then I may have to bevel 
the plexiglass to fit the beveled recess in the cabin exterior. Of course l'd 
like to do it the easiest way that works well. 

Al LilesSV Elendil1994 C 37+


On Jun 7, 2016, at 11:27 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:

I just did mine too...

When you say "width of the glue joint is narrow" do you mean the horizontal 
surface or the inner vertical surface..?

I put the VHB tape on the horizontal surface as close to the inner horizontal 
edge (you can barely see it in the cabin) and a 795 bead in the space between 
the tape and the 90 degree turn out to the vertical edge.   Pushed window on 
and then filled the narrow remaining gap with 795.  Worked great.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)




Virus-free  
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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Only skilled kayakers and competitive rowers can 
achieve speeds regarded as "maneuverable", in the sense of Colregs.


I regard small or slow moving vessels as obstructions and treat them as such.
And of course, kayaks being referred to as "speed 
bumps" may illicit a laugh or two. :)


Cheers, Russ



At 05:46 PM 07/06/2016, you wrote:
Saw a post on a local yacht club board this 
week.  Seems a sailboat was approaching a group 
of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor 
didn't know who had ROW.  As he went by the 
SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't know either.


With the exception of required lights, the rules 
seem to be minimal on situations with oared 
craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, 
etc.  The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard 
on our dinghy.  We just row ashore or to neighboring boats.


Here's some vague guidance:Â  from navcen.uscg.gov:

"13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the 
Navigation Rules? Neither the International nor 
Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or 
"canoes" per se, except in regards to "vessels 
under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. One 
could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be 
treated as a "sailing vessel" since it is 
permitted to display the same lights as one, 
but, ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" 
would fall to what would be "required by the 
ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special 
circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source: 
http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13


Interesting topic.  What say you?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[William Hall via CnC-List]

Interesting. I'd always learned that rowboats, canoes and the like had the
right of way over sail, motor, etc, at least when meeting in open water
free of obstructions.  That usually seems to make sense, as a sailboat with
a decent breeze can usually avoid the paddler easily.

Here's a reference supporting this general interpretation:
http://newboatbuilders.com/boating/navrules.html . I'd imagine opposing
viewpoints can come up with opposing references.

The example Jonathan brings up is a situation where the sailboat is
constrained and the paddler should try to give way.  Knowledgeable paddlers
know to stay out of the way of boats in the channel, just as we sailors
know to stay out of the way of freighters!  Actually, there's also
reference in Dennis' link to similar situations, both "vessels constrained
by their draft" and rule 9, narrow channels.

This topic of sail vs paddle reminds me of a number of incidents from my
days on the sailing team in college.  We raced dinghies on the Charles
River in Cambridge / Boston, which was also the home of quite a bit of
human powered traffic including rowing shells. Shells are very fast, but
very slow to turn, especially the eights that were often out practicing.
We were told to stay out of their way, but on occasion during a drifter
there wasn't much we could do, and the shells had to avoid us since we
couldn't avoid them.

In one of the first regattas where I had just started to figure out how to
do well, I managed to lead around the last leeward mark and thought I had
the race wrapped up, heading into the finish.  Approaching the finish, an
eight that had decided to row through our course realized (probably because
of all the yelling from other sailors) that they could have picked a better
place to go.  They decided to turn around, and in the process completely
blocked the finish line, overlapping both finish marks with their long hull
just as I arrived.  As the first one there, there was nothing to do but
wait and guess which end of the line was going to open up first.
Unfortunately I guessed wrong and lost quite a few places.   In hindsight
it seems pretty funny - they couldn't have timed or placed their turn worse
had they tried.

Bill
C 37 Starfire
Ludington, MI



On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 9:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of
> vessels.  When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel
> belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In
> general, manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go
> where most other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled
> vessels at the absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give
> way to all other classes of vessels.  While I am always courteous and
> careful around them, they do irritate me hugely when they insist in
> sticking to the middle of a channel!
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was
> approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't
> know who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't
> know either.
>
> With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on
> situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.
> The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row
> ashore or to neighboring boats.
>
> Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov:
>
> "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the
> International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per
> se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights.
> One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing
> vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but,
> ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be
> "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special
> circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source:
> http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13
>
> Interesting topic.  What say you?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu
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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Rule # 1 avoid collision
Common sense rule #2 who has more maneuverability and can get out of the way 
easier? I'd say it's easier to steer a bit to port or starboard for a boat then 
for the paddleboarder to paddle like hell to get out of the way.

As a paddleboarder I always appreciate when boats keep their distance.

Cheers

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 19:00, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I would certainly get them the right away, unless I was in an opti.
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
> Date: 6/7/2016 8:46 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: CnClist  
> Cc: "Dennis C."  
> Subject: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion 
> 
> Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was 
> approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't know 
> who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't know 
> either.
> 
> With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on 
> situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.  
> The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row ashore 
> or to neighboring boats.
> 
> Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov: 
> 
> "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the 
> International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per 
> se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. 
> One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing 
> vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but, 
> ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be 
> "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances 
> of the case" (Rule 2)." Source: 
> http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13
> 
> Interesting topic.  What say you?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Seconded. I believe the underlying ROW principle between different categories 
of vessel is that the more maneuverable give way to the less maneuverable. 

Best Regards, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Indigo via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Indigo"  
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 7:23:13 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion 

I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of 
vessels. When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel 
belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In general, 
manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go where most 
other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled vessels at the 
absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give way to all other 
classes of vessels. While I am always courteous and careful around them, they 
do irritate me hugely when they insist in sticking to the middle of a channel! 

-- 
Jonathan 
Indigo C 35III 
SOUTHPORT CT 

On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 




Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week. Seems a sailboat was 
approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's). Sailor didn't know who 
had ROW. As he went by the SUP's, he asked them. They didn't know either. 

With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on 
situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc. The 
Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy. We just row ashore or to 
neighboring boats. 

Here's some vague guidance: from navcen.uscg.gov : 

"13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the 
International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per se, 
except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. One 
could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing vessel" 
since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but, ultimately the 
issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be "required by the ordinary 
practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." 
Source: http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13 

Interesting topic. What say you? 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 






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Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, I have a MaxProp geared, two blade feathering prop for 10 years now. Had 
the Martec eliptic and needed four boat lengths to stop. Now I simply use the 
shift method to dock. I found backing in easier if I leave the engine idle and 
shift into neutral, and coast to lineup with my slip, then I go around on the 
cockpit side of the wheel and drive the boat into the slip, facing the 
direction of travel. I leave the throttle set and shift into reverse to get her 
going back, then shift into neutral and steer her into the slip. I shift into 
reverse if needed, but usually she moves well enough with the first period of 
engagement. I drive her in slowly and then stop her by putting her in forward 
and back into neutral. Then I grab the windward docklines which are marked with 
colored tape and tie her up. I solo most of the time and find this method very 
practical and easy. I keep lubber lines rigged between the outer and inner 
pilings and they are plan B if the engine stalls. No drama. Many compliments 
from bystanders who start to offer help and then see how easy my method works. 
My neighbors no longer worry about me. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Tim Goodyear"  
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 10:14:08 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec 

Mike, yes, I swapped from a Martec (non-geared) to a flex-o-fold about 6 years 
ago on Mojito (35-3). There was a dramatic difference in reverse capabilities. 

On Jun 7, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 






On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical 
folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F. I 
back in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very 
quickly by putting in fwd. If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop quickly 
by putting into reverse. My normal procedure is to approach our marina at 
approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral for a bit and at 3 knots put in reverse 
and increase RPMs to 2800. During this time I turn bow away from marina for 
approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward momentum and then begins to 
move in reverse. After that it drives very nicely in reverse and I back all the 
way in til I get to my slip and am stopped. 



Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse. 



Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared prop 
who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse? Is it significant and 
therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been quoted? 



Thanks 



Mike 

Persistence 

1987 Frers 33 #16 

Halifax, NS 





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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Ainslie via CnC-List]

I have the 3GMD engine in my 35-3, with tranny gear ratio of 2.61. The PO
had a fixed 3-blade prop that was 15" diameter, 14 pitch. I replaced it this
year with a Flex-o-Fold 2 blade geared prop that is 15" with 12 pitch. Both
props push the boat to 7.5 kts in the 3200rpm range, and I get boat speed of
7.1 at 2800rpm. The PO ran between those ranges, so I do too.  I'm
pleasantly surprised that it reverses so well. On the other hand, I can feel
a little more vibration in forward than the 3-blade fixed; this seems to
happen in the 1800 to 2200 rpm range.

Last week, we raised the sails, shut off the motor and were making 6 kts. I
could hear a kind of humming, and realized the drive was in neutral and the
prop was spinning. I put it in reverse. The humming stopped, and Spirit
almost lurched to 6.4 kts. It was that instant! Loving the folding prop; I
got it brand-new in the box for $700 from a guy that sold his boat before he
could mount it.

 

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

1984 C Mk III

Bayfield, ON

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Garry
Cross via CnC-List
Sent: June-07-16 2:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Garry Cross
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller

 

While were on the subject. My 35-2 with 3GM30, don't know transmission yet,
has a 13x12 fixed prop. It might be 12x13, just going on memory. 

>From the looks of things the diameter cannot be much more than it is as the
clearance to the hull is between 1-2 in. 

My problem is I cannot get to hull speed. The engine does not seem to be
labored and I can get to 3600 rpm without effort. My speed is around 6kn
when I am going at those RPM.

Just wonder what others have with the same engine on a 35-2. 

 

 


-- Forwarded message --
From: Bradley Lumgair 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: 
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 23:42:29 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller

I have some C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several of
the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY size
listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how to
load it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I just
can't remember.



I'd rather be sailing

 

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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of 
vessels.  When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel 
belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In general, 
manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go where most 
other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled vessels at the 
absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give way to all other 
classes of vessels.  While I am always courteous and careful around them, they 
do irritate me hugely when they insist in sticking to the middle of a channel! 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was 
> approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't know 
> who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't know 
> either.
> 
> With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on 
> situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.  
> The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row ashore 
> or to neighboring boats.
> 
> Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov: 
> 
> "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the 
> International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per 
> se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. 
> One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing 
> vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but, 
> ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be 
> "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances 
> of the case" (Rule 2)." Source: 
> http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13
> 
> Interesting topic.  What say you?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bradley,

 

I’m turning a 16”x13” Martec two bladed prop.  It works well in forward and 
reverse.  Yes, plenty of rpms will make the boat back up….

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley 
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 15:31
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller

 

Regarding the C 35 the chart I have doesn't list what year it's from but they 
made the C 33 MKII from '84 to 88. don't know how that corresponds to the 35 
MKIII but it lists a 17x10 prop for the 35.

 
 

I'd rather be sailing

 

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Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I would certainly get them the right away, unless I was in an opti.


Bill ColemanC 39 Erie

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date: 6/7/2016  8:46 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion 

Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was 
approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't know 
who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't know either.

With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on 
situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.  The 
Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row ashore or to 
neighboring boats.

Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov:


"13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? 
Neither the International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" 
or "canoes" per se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25
 regarding lights. One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be 
treated as a "sailing vessel" since it is permitted to display the same 
lights as one, but, ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall 
to what would be "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the
 special circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source: 
http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13

Interesting topic.  What say you?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was
approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't
know who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't
know either.

With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on
situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.
The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row
ashore or to neighboring boats.

Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov:

"13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the
International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per
se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights.
One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing
vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but,
ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be
"required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special
circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source:
http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13

Interesting topic.  What say you?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Dave via CnC-List]

Your description has me 90% certain you have a bad ground from the wiring 
harness to the engine.  On my 2gm this was a large ring terminal attached to or 
above the stArter iirc.  Your multimeter may fool you as you are getting some 
conductivity.  Inspect, Clean/de oxidize that grounding point first, save 
yourself some time. 
Note - since you are near the 12v feed to the starter, be careful when you 
work...
Dave.


Message: 7
Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:42:53 -0300
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Message-ID: <914ac484-43d2-9fd4-fb72-4fe87cccf...@accesswave.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed


Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this 
weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on 
when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent 
and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is 
intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit).

I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires.

No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you 
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not 
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.

I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working

Sent from my iPhone___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I agree with Edd.  The half inch joint is fine.  You will love the result.
Because the 4991 tape is a compliant acrylic foam (instead of the rigid
Plexus), the windows should not crack again, either.

Results, here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQRSP2fYIFmRzdIM1ZfQ25jTDQ/view?usp=sharing

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The time has come to replace my cracked and leaking Windows on my 37+. I
> had planned on using 4991 tape and 795 silicone to attach the plexiglass.
> The problem is that the width of the glue joint is narrow, as little as 1/2
> inch in some places. Should I make the plexiglass window larger to increase
> the joint width? The recess in the cabin side for the window is beveled and
> looks like it will accommodate a larger pane. Will I have to bevel the
> plexiglass to fit? Has anyone else had this issue?
>
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> 1994 C 37+
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi David

I will email some direct, the list will not support it...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-06-06 5:48 AM, davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote:

Graham.
If you could post photos of your rudder rebuild I'd appreciate that. I'm 
guessing it's similar to the 37 but would like to be sure.
Thanks,
Dave J
Saltaire
CC35 MK3
Bristol, RI
- Original Message -
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Sent: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:09:24 - (UTC)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

Hi Chris

You say re-core it, do you intend to replace all the foam (and new
skins), or do the cut open, scoop out saturated foam, refill?

I can shoot you some pics of my rudder interior if you want.

Where in Halifax are you?

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
BBYC / Waeg - Halifax, NS

On 2016-05-25 9:57 AM, Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List wrote:

I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was 
wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What are 
the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?

Chris
C 37 Northern Light
Halifax


Sent from my iPad


On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
From: Sam Wheeler 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
Message-ID:
 

Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

A word of caution regarding electrical diagnosis on live circuits… I recently 
attended a two day class at Annapolis School of Seamanship on diesel mechanics 
and one of the things they stressed is removing ALL jewelry (wedding rings, 
watches, EVERYTHING) when diving into wiring that’s connected to a battery.  It 
takes very little contact to make a nice short circuit across a gold wedding 
ring or bracelet and the result is a very bad burn, sometimes taking the skin 
clear off your finger or wrist (I believe the term they used was “de-gloving” 
your hand).  I worked on cars and motorcycles for many years without a second 
thought about frying my wristwatch across a starter solenoid, but it appears 
there have been enough instances of bad burns, especially in tight engine 
spaces (like beneath the companionway of a sailboat) to warrant a word to the 
wise…

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Pandaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 3:08 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

 

I just had same issue.  Started at the ignition switch and worked toward 
engine.  It was the slide on connector on the solenoid.  Apparently I'd knocked 
it loose while working near it.

Just remember, voltage does not mean the amperage will happen.

Speaking of engines, here's what I'm working on this weekend:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger

I hope Touche's exchanger doesn't have as many zinc pieces as this one.  I'm 
seeing 5-10 degrees of overheat right now at high rpm.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
 > wrote:


Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this weekend.  I 
now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on when I turned the 
key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent and my engine overheat 
buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is intermittent -- so good chance that 
the wiring harness is the culprit).

I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires.

No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you from 
starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not sure where 
those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.

I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working


Thanks,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to get 
done.

Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was running 
smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from turning the 
key.


Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the 
radio when trying to turn over the engine.

I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few hours 
- wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.  That day I 
easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the engine running 
for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).

That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to clean 
contact but no effect.


I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise or 
power dip indicating that something was seized

3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I 
presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well.  
Nothing obviously disconnected


I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out 
what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!


Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a 
voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it 
suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?

I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - 
maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed

Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin the 
starter/solenoid directly?


The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

Regarding the C 35 the chart I have doesn't list what year it's from but they 
made the C 33 MKII from '84 to 88. don't know how that corresponds to the 35 
MKIII but it lists a 17x10 prop for the 35.

[X][X]
I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I just had same issue.  Started at the ignition switch and worked toward
engine.  It was the slide on connector on the solenoid.  Apparently I'd
knocked it loose while working near it.

Just remember, voltage does not mean the amperage will happen.

Speaking of engines, here's what I'm working on this weekend:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger

I hope Touche's exchanger doesn't have as many zinc pieces as this one.
I'm seeing 5-10 degrees of overheat right now at high rpm.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 1:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Thanks for all the feedback.
>
> I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this
> weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on
> when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent and
> my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is intermittent
> -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit).
>
> I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires.
>
> No glow plug to deal with.
>
> I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you from
> starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not sure
> where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.
>
> I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>
>>
>> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need
>> to get done.
>>
>> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was
>> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from
>> turning the key.
>>
>>
>> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to
>> the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
>>
>> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few
>> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.
>> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the
>> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
>>
>> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to
>> clean contact but no effect.
>>
>>
>> I figure there are 3 possibilities
>>
>> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
>>
>> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
>> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
>>
>> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what
>> I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as
>> well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
>>
>>
>> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure
>> out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
>>
>>
>> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get
>> a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it
>> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
>>
>> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition
>> key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed
>>
>> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to
>> spin the starter/solenoid directly?
>>
>>
>> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the advice,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

By "glue joint" I mean the overlap area created by the difference between the 
size of the widow and the size of the hole the window is covering. This area is 
narrow especially at the bottom of the window, 1/2" or so. The VHB tape is 1/2" 
wide, leaving no room for sealant. I could cut the tape to 1/4" leaving 1/4" 
for sealant but I'm wondering if that will be strong enough. I could make the 
window larger and thus the overlap larger as well but then I may have to bevel 
the plexiglass to fit the beveled recess in the cabin exterior. Of course l'd 
like to do it the easiest way that works well. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
1994 C 37+


> On Jun 7, 2016, at 11:27 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I just did mine too...
> 
> When you say "width of the glue joint is narrow" do you mean the horizontal 
> surface or the inner vertical surface..?
> 
> I put the VHB tape on the horizontal surface as close to the inner horizontal 
> edge (you can barely see it in the cabin) and a 795 bead in the space between 
> the tape and the 90 degree turn out to the vertical edge.   Pushed window on 
> and then filled the narrow remaining gap with 795.  Worked great.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Virus-free
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this 
weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned on 
when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather intermittent 
and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the tach is 
intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the culprit).


I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground wires.

No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you 
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not 
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.


I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working


Thanks,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that 
need to get done.


Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) 
from turning the key.



Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power 
to the radio when trying to turn over the engine.


I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a 
few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't 
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken 
loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on the 
starter solenoid (?).


That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to 
clean contact but no effect.



I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of 
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized


3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to 
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires 
connected as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected



I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to 
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!



Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd 
get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing 
then it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?


I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the 
ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires 
are needed


Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to 
spin the starter/solenoid directly?



The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Al — I’ve got about half of an 80-foot roll of tape left after two boats' worth 
of windows, if you’re in the market.  Contact me off-list if interested.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 12:52 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The time has come to replace my cracked and leaking Windows on my 37+. I had 
> planned on using 4991 tape and 795 silicone to attach the plexiglass. The 
> problem is that the width of the glue joint is narrow, as little as 1/2 inch 
> in some places. Should I make the plexiglass window larger to increase the 
> joint width? The recess in the cabin side for the window is beveled and looks 
> like it will accommodate a larger pane. Will I have to bevel the plexiglass 
> to fit? Has anyone else had this issue?
> 
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> 1994 C 37+

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[David via CnC-List]

I just did mine too...

When you say "width of the glue joint is narrow" do you mean the horizontal 
surface or the inner vertical surface..?

I put the VHB tape on the horizontal surface as close to the inner horizontal 
edge (you can barely see it in the cabin) and a 795 bead in the space between 
the tape and the 90 degree turn out to the vertical edge.   Pushed window on 
and then filled the narrow remaining gap with 795.  Worked great.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


> Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 10:52:03 -0700
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: lilesal...@gmail.com
> 
> The time has come to replace my cracked and leaking Windows on my 37+. I had 
> planned on using 4991 tape and 795 silicone to attach the plexiglass. The 
> problem is that the width of the glue joint is narrow, as little as 1/2 inch 
> in some places. Should I make the plexiglass window larger to increase the 
> joint width? The recess in the cabin side for the window is beveled and looks 
> like it will accommodate a larger pane. Will I have to bevel the plexiglass 
> to fit? Has anyone else had this issue?
> 
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> 1994 C 37+
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!





Virus-free



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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

While were on the subject. My 35-2 with 3GM30, don't know transmission yet,
has a 13x12 fixed prop. It might be 12x13, just going on memory.
>From the looks of things the diameter cannot be much more than it is as the
clearance to the hull is between 1-2 in.
My problem is I cannot get to hull speed. The engine does not seem to be
labored and I can get to 3600 rpm without effort. My speed is around 6kn
when I am going at those RPM.
Just wonder what others have with the same engine on a 35-2.




-- Forwarded message --
From: Bradley Lumgair 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc:
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 23:42:29 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
I have some C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several
of the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY
size listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how
to load it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I
just can't remember.

I'd rather be sailing
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Al,

I did mine three years ago with the same size windows (created a template from 
the existing ones) and used 1/2 inch foam VHB fuselage tape to secure in place. 
The only change I made was to make my windows thicker and a little darker. 

Some of the edging is tight, but you can clear the excess away with some razor 
blades and patience. So very happy with the end result. No cracks, no leaks. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







> On Jun 7, 2016, at 1:52 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The time has come to replace my cracked and leaking Windows on my 37+. I had 
> planned on using 4991 tape and 795 silicone to attach the plexiglass. The 
> problem is that the width of the glue joint is narrow, as little as 1/2 inch 
> in some places. Should I make the plexiglass window larger to increase the 
> joint width? The recess in the cabin side for the window is beveled and looks 
> like it will accommodate a larger pane. Will I have to bevel the plexiglass 
> to fit? Has anyone else had this issue?
> 
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> 1994 C 37+
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Cabin window replacement, again

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

The time has come to replace my cracked and leaking Windows on my 37+. I had 
planned on using 4991 tape and 795 silicone to attach the plexiglass. The 
problem is that the width of the glue joint is narrow, as little as 1/2 inch in 
some places. Should I make the plexiglass window larger to increase the joint 
width? The recess in the cabin side for the window is beveled and looks like it 
will accommodate a larger pane. Will I have to bevel the plexiglass to fit? Has 
anyone else had this issue?

Al Liles
SV Elendil
1994 C 37+


___

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

You can ask for a quote from the various manufacturers. Based on your
engine and transmission most of them will recommend a prop.

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:24 PM, Robin Drew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks.
>
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have some C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several
> of the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY
> size listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how
> to load it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I
> just can't remember.
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Mike,

this question comes with “Persistence”. 

You may want to bookmark this link: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/gear/folding-and-feathering-propeller-test-29807 
or download the PDF version from here 
(http://www.flexofold.com/upload_dir/docs/Test_YachtingMonthly_low.pdf (please 
note that it is hosted at Flexofold; one might assume that they came up quite 
well in the tests)).

Of course, this is a 7-year old test, so things might have changed. On the flip 
side, I don’t think things change to our boats that quickly...

Marek
1994 C270 #122 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 09:42
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical 
folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F.  I 
back in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very 
quickly by putting in fwd.  If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop 
quickly by putting into reverse.  My normal procedure is to approach our marina 
at approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral for a bit and at 3 knots put in reverse 
and increase RPMs to 2800.  During this time I turn bow away from marina for 
approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward momentum and then begins to 
move in reverse.  After that it drives very nicely in reverse and I back all 
the way in til I get to my slip and am stopped.

 

Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse.

 

Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared prop 
who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse?  Is it significant and 
therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been quoted?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

Persistence

1987 Frers 33 #16

Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  I've got a 2 blade flexofold (13x11 I think) - paid $1200 a couple of years ago.This prop is better in forward and reverse than my previous 3 blade fixed. Performance sailing is outstanding compared to the fixed. sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 7:42 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Hoyt, MikeSubject: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec







On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F.  I back
 in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very quickly by putting in fwd.  If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop quickly by putting into reverse.  My normal procedure is to approach our marina at approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral
 for a bit and at 3 knots put in reverse and increase RPMs to 2800.  During this time I turn bow away from marina for approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward momentum and then begins to move in reverse.  After that it drives very nicely in reverse
 and I back all the way in til I get to my slip and am stopped.
 
Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse.
 
Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared prop who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse?  Is it significant and
 therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been quoted?
 
Thanks
 
Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS





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Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Joel

I am outside the marina system when I change from fwd to reverse.  I enter the 
marina system in reverse at 2-3 knots and by the time I am nearing my slip am 1 
– 1.5 knots. Our slip is in the most sheltered part of our marina system so 
there is not often any wind blowing us around.  The other thing is that with a 
crew aboard it is so much easier to dock in reverse because I can see ….

Mike





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2016 11:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

Mike,

Can't comment on the props, but you approach the dock at a far higher speed 
than I would.  Maybe its my lack of docking skills, but if I hit something I 
want to minimize damage.

Joel

On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Mike, yes, I swapped from a Martec (non-geared) to a flex-o-fold about 6 years 
ago on Mojito (35-3).  There was a dramatic difference in reverse capabilities.

On Jun 7, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical 
folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F.  I 
back in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very 
quickly by putting in fwd.  If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop 
quickly by putting into reverse.  My normal procedure is to approach our marina 
at approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral for a bit and at 3 knots put in reverse 
and increase RPMs to 2800.  During this time I turn bow away from marina for 
approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward momentum and then begins to 
move in reverse.  After that it drives very nicely in reverse and I back all 
the way in til I get to my slip and am stopped.

Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse.

Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared prop 
who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse?  Is it significant and 
therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been quoted?

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS
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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Mike,

Can't comment on the props, but you approach the dock at a far higher speed
than I would.  Maybe its my lack of docking skills, but if I hit something
I want to minimize damage.

Joel

On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mike, yes, I swapped from a Martec (non-geared) to a flex-o-fold about 6
> years ago on Mojito (35-3).  There was a dramatic difference in reverse
> capabilities.
>
> On Jun 7, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical
> folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F.
> I back in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very
> quickly by putting in fwd.  If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop
> quickly by putting into reverse.  My normal procedure is to approach our
> marina at approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral for a bit and at 3 knots put
> in reverse and increase RPMs to 2800.  During this time I turn bow away
> from marina for approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward
> momentum and then begins to move in reverse.  After that it drives very
> nicely in reverse and I back all the way in til I get to my slip and am
> stopped.
>
>
>
> Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse.
>
>
>
> Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared
> prop who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse?  Is it
> significant and therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been
> quoted?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Mike, yes, I swapped from a Martec (non-geared) to a flex-o-fold about 6 years 
ago on Mojito (35-3).  There was a dramatic difference in reverse capabilities.

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical 
> folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F.  I 
> back in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very 
> quickly by putting in fwd.  If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop 
> quickly by putting into reverse.  My normal procedure is to approach our 
> marina at approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral for a bit and at 3 knots put 
> in reverse and increase RPMs to 2800.  During this time I turn bow away from 
> marina for approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward momentum and 
> then begins to move in reverse.  After that it drives very nicely in reverse 
> and I back all the way in til I get to my slip and am stopped.
>  
> Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse.
>  
> Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared 
> prop who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse?  Is it 
> significant and therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been 
> quoted?
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical 
folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F.  I 
back in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very 
quickly by putting in fwd.  If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop 
quickly by putting into reverse.  My normal procedure is to approach our marina 
at approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral for a bit and at 3 knots put in reverse 
and increase RPMs to 2800.  During this time I turn bow away from marina for 
approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward momentum and then begins to 
move in reverse.  After that it drives very nicely in reverse and I back all 
the way in til I get to my slip and am stopped.

Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse.

Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared prop 
who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse?  Is it significant and 
therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been quoted?

Thanks

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List Propeller - flexofold

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

That is similar to what we paid

Get Outlook for iOS




On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 9:17 AM -0400, "Robin Drew via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

I just got a quote of $1,145 US for a 2 blade Flexofold.
Robin

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

On Jun 7, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Bruno

What did they charge you for that prop?

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 7:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller

Robin,

I do remember the original fixed blades prop of my 33 mk II with original 
Yanmar 2gmf was 16", will have to check for the pitch but I think it is 12. I 
will be back home in two days to verify that.

I ordered a Flexofold 3 blades and they recommended 15" /9". The blade area is 
larger and I think it is too much prop for my boat, I can't push the engine 
over 2800. But it is a good prop and I deal with it.

Bruno lachance
Becassine, 33 mkIi
New Richmond, Qc


Envoy? de mon iPad

Le 5 juin 2016 ? 22:29, Robin Drew via CnC-List 
> a ?crit :
Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and putting 
a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.

It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

Any comments?
Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
> wrote:
The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
open all the way?
Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause the 
problem you describe.
There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robin Drew
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
Subject: Stus-List Propeller

I have just purchased a C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR

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Re: Stus-List Propeller - flexofold

[Robin Drew via CnC-List]

I just got a quote of $1,145 US for a 2 blade Flexofold.
Robin

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Bruno
>  
> What did they charge you for that prop?
>  
> Mike
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
> Lachance via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 7:00 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bruno Lachance
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
>  
> Robin,
>  
> I do remember the original fixed blades prop of my 33 mk II with original 
> Yanmar 2gmf was 16", will have to check for the pitch but I think it is 12. I 
> will be back home in two days to verify that.
>  
> I ordered a Flexofold 3 blades and they recommended 15" /9". The blade area 
> is larger and I think it is too much prop for my boat, I can't push the 
> engine over 2800. But it is a good prop and I deal with it.
>  
> Bruno lachance
> Becassine, 33 mkIi
> New Richmond, Qc
> 
> 
> Envoyé de mon iPad
> 
> Le 5 juin 2016 à 22:29, Robin Drew via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
> that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and 
> putting a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.
>  
> It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
> website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
> my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?
> 
> Any comments?
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> 
> On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
> open all the way?
> Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
> I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
> supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
> teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
> all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
> The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
> the problem you describe.
> There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON  
> - Original Message -
> From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robin Drew
> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
> Subject: Stus-List Propeller
>  
> I have just purchased a C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
> 
> Robin Drew
> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Propeller - flexofold

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Bruno

What did they charge you for that prop?

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2016 7:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller

Robin,

I do remember the original fixed blades prop of my 33 mk II with original 
Yanmar 2gmf was 16", will have to check for the pitch but I think it is 12. I 
will be back home in two days to verify that.

I ordered a Flexofold 3 blades and they recommended 15" /9". The blade area is 
larger and I think it is too much prop for my boat, I can't push the engine 
over 2800. But it is a good prop and I deal with it.

Bruno lachance
Becassine, 33 mkIi
New Richmond, Qc


Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 5 juin 2016 à 22:29, Robin Drew via CnC-List 
> a écrit :
Thanks. I just bought the boat and I'm pretty annoyed but sure the problem is 
that it's  worn and needs maintenance. I'm planning on removing it and putting 
a simple 2 blade prop on, at least for now.

It's hard to get info about the size and pitch specs. However, I found a 
website in BC that has a prop calculator and it gave me 15" with 9" pitch for 
my boat (CNC 33/2), engine and transmission. Does this sound right?

Any comments?
Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060

On May 29, 2016, at 4:32 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
> wrote:
The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
open all the way?
Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it.
I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built.
The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause the 
problem you describe.
There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: Robin Drew via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robin Drew
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
Subject: Stus-List Propeller

I have just purchased a C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

Robin Drew
Mobile: +1 514 4632060
"The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Asymmetric chute

[Damian Greene via CnC-List]

Let me add a little detail to Andy's directions below on how to drop an 
asymmetrical spinnaker (based on when I owned a J-80). This keeps the sail 
under control:
1) Head downwind to blanket the spinnaker with the main2) Open the hatch3) A 
single crew member goes just forward of the open hatch, and sits on the 
coach-roof facing the rail.4) Sheet in the spinnaker, so the foot is close to 
the rail and can be grabbed by the crew5) Ease the tack quickly and steadily, 
so the crew can gather the foot in concertina loops6) Ease the sheet so the 
crew now has the full foot in their arms7) Ease the halyard quickly and 
steadily so the crew can stuff the gathered spinnaker behind them and down the 
hatch (the person who eased the tack and sheet can help with stuffing the sail 
down the hatch).
Regards,
Damian Greene
1992 C 34 GHOSTBass Harbor, Maine

  From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Andrew Burton 
 Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 4:34 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Asymmetric chute
   
Hoist it to the masthead and use a longish tack line. Try to keep the luff 
fairly tight so the sail doesn't drift off to leeward and become an air brake 
when you're reaching. 

To drop the sail, the easiest way is to turn downwind and then ease the tack 
line and sheet it in tight behind the main. The main will blanket it so there 
is no wind/pressure in the sail and you can ease the halyard and douse it even 
in windy conditions with no trouble.

 An even better solution is to get a spinnaker sock and follow the directions 
for using that. The sock makes getting the spinnaker up and down on Peregrine a 
snap to do by myself.

Andy
C 40 
Peregrine

On Sun, Jun 5, 2016 at 11:45 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 wrote:

We have been given one. It is too short but it worked well as we have normally 
three children on board. It is short on the luff so do we fly it high to the 
top of the mast or lower to the deck? What is the process of getting it down? 
Tack release, let sheets go, and then let down the halyard? What is the normal 
way of doing it?
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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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