Stus-List I Need a jib or genny

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I blew out my Genoa and need a temporary headsail while new one is being made.  
Anyone have an old jib or Genoa they’d like to sell?  Luff 45- 47 feet. 
Preferably 100 to 135 %.  Thanks. Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 5, 2019, at 11:18 PM, Bailey White via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a 1979 C 36 with Signet wind instrument.  I believe it is an SL 254 
> or something similar.  
> 
> The cups at the mast head don't turn at low wind speeds and then the 
> instrument reads too high once they do spin.  For example, I've seen up to 65 
> indicated when nothing else reads above 40 .  The boat can be heeling and 
> moving well in what feels like 5 or 6 knots and the instrument can indicate 
> 0.  
> 
> I've google and I'm not finding best practices to service this system.  It 
> may be obvious once I climb the rig to inspect, but wanted to get any advice 
> in advance.  Much appreciated.
> 
> best,
> Bailey
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Prop strut

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Hunter OEM Parts

Hunter prop struts and shafts
Everything you need for your power train
 
BUY NOW
 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2019, at 10:42 AM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> No, you would have to use heat, which would make the metal brittle.
> Its the base of the strut that is bent, which makes bending it back into shape
>  very difficult and not very accurate. 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
> Sent: Tue, May 28, 2019 10:24 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop strut
> 
> Hi Gerry
>  
> Is it possible to straighten the strut?
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gerald 
> Fennessey via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 10:27 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Gerald Fennessey
> Subject: Stus-List Prop strut
>  
> Hi 
>  
> I have a 1985 C 35 MK 3 with a very bent prop strut.
> Talked to Accutech this am, the company that made the strut
> is out of business and it could take as long as ten weeks to get a
> new one cast.
> If anyone out there knows of a new or used strut for this boat
> please let me know.
> Sailing on the hard will not be a fun summer.
>  
> Thanks
> Gerry Fennessey
> Fianna
> 1985 C MK3
> 9788521424
> ___
> 
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Stus-List Boating Classes and Seminars

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Listers in the New York City metropolitan area. If you would like to receive 
email notices about USPS boating classes and seminars let me know and I will 
have you added to the email list.  Classes range from basic boating up to 
Celestial and offshore navigation   Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 21, 2019, at 6:11 AM, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I placed a transducer on our 41 just behind the keel sump on the centerline. 
> It is solid glass there as the core does not extend to the centerline. The 
> overlaps of layers of cloth provide the required thickness. I would assume 
> the other models are built in a similar manner. Our CHIRP sonar/depth sounder 
> works great there.
> 
> Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
> C 41   WeGo
> 
>> On Mon, May 20, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>1. Re:  Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C/40+
>>   (Frederick G Street)
>>2. Re:  Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades (Matthew L. Wolford)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Frederick G Street 
>> To: David via CnC-List 
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 07:15:57 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C/40+
>> Bruce — if you’re going to have two depth transducers running at the same 
>> time, you’d better check to make sure they’re running on different 
>> frequencies; otherwise, you’re going to experience some strange results…
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On May 18, 2019, at 6:25 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> I bought a Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV and transducer that is on sale at West 
>>> Marine.  This comes with a good transducer that will map out the bottom, 
>>> act as a fish finder, etc.On most boats, the transducer can be mounted 
>>> in the bilge and will fire through the fiberglass sufficiently.  We, 
>>> however, have a cored hull.
>>> 
>>> If worse comes to worst, we get depth data via the existing transducer, but 
>>> I'd like the added functionality.
>>> 
>>> Does anyone know if there is a spot around the keel where the hull is not 
>>> cored and it might work?
>>> 
>>> Does anyone have a drawing that shows where the hull is, and is not cored?
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>>> 
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
>> To: 
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 08:39:06 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades
>> Brian:
>> 
>> I replaced the lens on my front hatch and my windows on a 1978 34.  The 
>> hatch was Atkins and Hoyle.  The parts are really expensive so do what you 
>> can to use the existing hatch frame and its parts.  For this job, I ordered 
>> a piece of plexi of the same thickness, had it cut to size, then took it to 
>> a local shop that replaces auto windows.  I told them to use the same 
>> sealant they use for cars.  They did a fine job -- no leaks.  I also 
>> replaced the gasket material, which you should be able to find on-line.  My 
>> windows were the old style C oval windows, which I replaced with Lewmar 
>> opening ports.  Great upgrade.  I think 1979 was the year C started using 
>> "go fast" windows, so you'll want to use the procedure described numerous 
>> times on this list.  I used this procedure last year on my 42, and the 
>> windows look brand new with no leaks.
>> 
>> Matt
>> 
>> -Original Message- 
>> From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List
>> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2019 12:40 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Brian Morrison
>> Subject: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades
>> 
>> Hello,
>> I have a 1979 C 34. It’s time to upgrade my windows, forward hatch, 
>> companionway hatch and blinds. The windows and hatches are leaking and have 
>> crazing. The blinds are worn and outdated. Any leads/advice is much 
>> appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Brian
>> S/V Rekofa
>> 1979 C
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
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> 

Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto? Now general lifeline information

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I checked those regs and they now permit HMPE rope lifelines. 
“Lifeline Specifications
Lifelines of stranded stainless steel wire
Lifelines of either:
stranded stainless steel wire
HMPE
The minimum diameter is specified in table 8 below
Stainless steel lifelines shall be uncoated and used without close-fitting 
sleeving, however, temporary sleeving may be fitted provided it is regularly 
removed for inspection.
A lanyard of synthetic rope may be used to secure lifelines provided the gap it 
closes does not exceed 100 mm (4”). This lanyard shall be replaced annually
All components of the lifeline enclosure system shall have a breaking strength 
no less than the lifeline
When HMPE is used, it shall be protected from chafe and spliced in accordance 
with the manufacturer’s recommended procedure.”___

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Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

If you race, please read on…

Here is a list of the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements that apply to 
lifelines for both coastal and ocean racing. For full list of 2016 SERs, visit 
the US Sailing website at 
http://www.ussailing.org/safety/equipment-and-requirements/

A boat’s stanchion and pulpit bases shall be within the working deck. 
Stanchions used with High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE) shall have rounded 
openings to reduce chafe.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 13, 2019, at 9:29 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> And I forgot to say, I had them made up by a local rigger.  Not much more 
> expensive than the wire, pelican hooks and related parts themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

From Practical Sailor.  “International Sailing Association and Federation 
(ISAF) Offshore Special Regulations give considerable attention to lifeline 
design. For boats over 28 feet, they must be a minimum of 24 inches above the 
working deck and be made of uncoated wire or the equivalent high molecular 
weight polyethylene rope (HMPE) like Dyneema or Spectra. If socket-type bases 
are used, through-bolting, welding, or bonding is mandatory. Socket mounts with 
set screws or self-tappers have been known to work free. When using 
high-modulus fiber lifelines, the type of splice used should be what the 
manufacturer recommends; versions of the Brummel splice are often the preferred 
approach for placing an eye in single-braid line.”  See full article at 
https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_21/features/long-term-test-evaluates-synthetic-lifelines_10875-1.html

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 13, 2019, at 8:55 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Any polymeric lifeline like spectra, amsteel or dyneema is not a real 
> “lifeline” regardless of tensile strength. 
> 
>> On Mon, May 13, 2019 at 9:16 AM Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> According to Sail Magazine article it’s less of a propeller today. 
>> “Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene, or HMPE, popularly known as 
>> Dyneema or Spectra, is some 15 times stronger than steel weight-for-weight; 
>> 5mm (3/16)Amsteel Blue has a tensile strength of 5,400lb. It’s also 
>> versatile, chafe-resistant, easy to splice and more resistant to UV 
>> degradation than many other fibers. Among its many other uses on board, it 
>> has become popular for lifeline replacement.”
>> Jerry 
>> https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/know-how-replacing-lifelines
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 12, 2019, at 10:02 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Agree in general but has such high tech line solved its limited lifetime 
>>> under constant UV?
>>> 
>>> This problem led me to go with bare SS a few years ago instead of such high 
>>> tech line.
>>> 
>>> Charlie Nelson
>>> 1995 C 36XL/kcb
>>> Water Phantom
>>> 
>>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>>> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>>> 
>>> On Sunday, May 12, 2019, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I would replace with Dyneema, super-strong , greater strength for its 
>>> diameter than wire, easy to splice, lightweight, feels good to the touch 
>>> (doesn't cut into your back), easy to inspect, needs fewer fittings than 
>>> wire, low-stretch, doesn't chafe sheets and sails, costs less and looks 
>>> better.
>>> 
>>> See https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-replacing-lifelines.  Jerry
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

According to Sail Magazine article it’s less of a propeller today. “Ultra-High 
Molecular Weight Polyethylene, or HMPE, popularly known as Dyneema or Spectra, 
is some 15 times stronger than steel weight-for-weight; 5mm (3/16)Amsteel Blue 
has a tensile strength of 5,400lb. It’s also versatile, chafe-resistant, easy 
to splice and more resistant to UV degradation than many other fibers. Among 
its many other uses on board, it has become popular for lifeline replacement.”
Jerry 
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/know-how-replacing-lifelines

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2019, at 10:02 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Agree in general but has such high tech line solved its limited lifetime 
> under constant UV?
> 
> This problem led me to go with bare SS a few years ago instead of such high 
> tech line.
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
> 
> On Sunday, May 12, 2019, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I would replace with Dyneema, super-strong , greater strength for its 
> diameter than wire, easy to splice,  lightweight, feels good to the touch 
> (doesn't cut into your back), easy to inspect, needs fewer fittings than 
> wire, low-stretch, doesn't chafe sheets and sails, costs less and looks 
> better.
> 
> See https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-replacing-lifelines.  Jerry
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Source for replacement lifelines in Toronto?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I would replace with Dyneema, super-strong , greater strength for its diameter 
than wire, easy to splice, lightweight, feels good to the touch (doesn't cut 
into your back), easy to inspect, needs fewer fittings than wire, low-stretch, 
doesn't chafe sheets and sails, costs less and looks better.

See https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/know-how-replacing-lifelines.  Jerry
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Re: Stus-List Free 35'

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Most of you are not familiar with marina fees in the NYC area.  Liberty landing 
charges about $300 per foot annual fees so a 35 foot boat costs $10,500 a year. 
  A C 35-1 with a non working motor is essentially worthless and with a lot 
of luck might bring $10,000.  The new billing cycle starts April 15 so the boat 
is essentially a liability unless it can be unloaded quickly. Giving it away is 
the best bet.  The owner probably got many calls about it and disposed of the 
boat and simply stopped answering inquiries. I doubt it was a scam.  Jerry 

2018 thru April 14, 2019
With Dry Winter Storage: Docks A-G Docks H-M
Docks N-O
Dry Storage includes long haul, blocking and spring launch. Power wash is not 
included
  With Winter Wet Storage:
Tenant Commercial Jet ski
Docks A-G Docks H-M Docks N-O
$ 280.00/ft $ 265.00/ft $ 240.00/ft
Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2019, at 7:17 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The making of a horrible practical joke  I think:
> 
> Free boat in slip X at marina Y. Marina fees owed, go down at night and be 
> quiet leaving.
> 
> (the boat in question is not yours)
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
>> On 5/2/2019 5:22 PM, Larry via CnC-List wrote:
>> Jon
>> Now I know what happened to my boat! Went to go out today and no boat! Oh 
>> well keep it!
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 2, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Steve Staten via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail 
>>> via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 2, 2019 3:45 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: JP Mail 
>>> Subject:  Re: Stus-List Free 35'
>>> 
>>> Oh jeez!
>>> I went down there, found a 35 and sailed it home. I hope it was the right 
>>> one.
>>> Jon
>>> 
>>> I probably shouldn't encourage you but I laughed out loud for the first 
>>> time today because of that post. Thanks.
>>> 
>>> Steve Staten
>>> "C'Est La Vie"
>>> 26 C
>>> Langley, Oklahoma
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Free 35'

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Liberty Landing is in Jersey City NJ across from lower Manhattan (Freedom 
Tower) and near the statue of liberty.  I used to live across the Hudson from 
it.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 1, 2019, at 12:38 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Where is this exactly?
>  
> Joe
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
> Gallagher via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2019 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robert Gallagher 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Free 35'
>  
> CUT AND PASTE FROM SAILNET.COM forums
>  
> Hi all,
> 
> I have moved from Manhattan to California, so have decided to give away my 
> beautiful 1973 C & C 35 to whomever wants her and will sail her. I can supply 
> the most recent survey. Whomever wants her would need to sail her out of 
> Liberty Landing Marina by May 10. She sails extremely well. Please let me 
> know if seriously interested. To be clear, this is free but you do need be 
> able to sail.
> 
> Cheers,
> Peter  
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Gauging engine speed vs hull speed

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

40 hp on that boat is a giant engine.  Original had 30hp.  Should drive it to 
hull speed with little effort.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 21, 2019, at 11:32 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> We had a good sea trial yesterday on the C 35-2 we are planning to 
> purchase. Although winds were a bit light, we were able to test the main, 90% 
> jib on inner furler, and 150% on outer furler, and all worked well. As my 
> wife did most of the steering, I didn't get a chance to test the engine 
> except at fairly low speeds. As a result, I am planning to take another trial 
> next week to see if I can get a feel for how the boat is propped, and to 
> check for any unusual vibration from the long prop shaft which is installed. 
> The owner and previous owner who did the work both assure me there is no 
> vibration, but since I am paying for a haulout and have 2 weeks on the hard 
> to do work, I want to ensure everything is attended to. 
> 
> Unfortunately, there is no tach on the engine (VW 1.6D) so I will need to 
> gauge engine speed by ear, unless I can locate a diesel tach. The VW factory 
> tachs use a signal from the alternator, but I am not sure if either of the 
> boats two alternators have this signal output. What I am curious about is 
> what boat speed other 35-2 owners get from their engines at various RPMs, and 
> from what prop/transmission ratio combination? The boat has a Hurth 100 
> gearbox with a 2.5:1 ratio (not confirmed, but quoted on old survey), but 
> prop size is unknown. What should I expect to see under power as I increase 
> the engine speed, ie: at what point should the boat begin to hit a wall where 
> increasing engine power has little effect on boat speed? With the hull speed 
> around 7.35 knots, I'm guessing over 6 knots will require a lot more power? 
> The engine runs very well, with a newly rebuilt injection pump, and no smoke 
> from cold start; rated at 40hp or so.
> 
> Thanks
> -- 
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze leak

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

If it was head gasket you’d see it in the oil. If cap leaked you’d see it in 
bilge or smell it. Heat exchanger hole just pumps it out with no tell tale 
signs. Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2019, at 12:43 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Had same Problem on Beneteau 411 and indeed there was a hole in the heat 
> exchanger so antifreeze got pumped out with raw water.  Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 5, 2019, at 11:48 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> You can't rule out a head gasket, either.  Look for a milky substance in the 
>> engine oil.
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 11:47 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Over a period of time, I'm losing antifreeze from the engine. I haven't 
>>> seen any leaks coming from any of the hoses or hose connections while the 
>>> engine is running. Can anyone confirm that the likely cause is a leak in 
>>> the heat exchanger? The engine is a Yanmar 3GMf, 20hp model. How difficult 
>>> is it to replace/repair the heat exchanger core?
>>> 
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>>> 
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Re: Stus-List Antifreeze leak

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Had same Problem on Beneteau 411 and indeed there was a hole in the heat 
exchanger so antifreeze got pumped out with raw water.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2019, at 11:48 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You can't rule out a head gasket, either.  Look for a milky substance in the 
> engine oil.
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 11:47 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Over a period of time, I'm losing antifreeze from the engine. I haven't seen 
>> any leaks coming from any of the hoses or hose connections while the engine 
>> is running. Can anyone confirm that the likely cause is a leak in the heat 
>> exchanger? The engine is a Yanmar 3GMf, 20hp model. How difficult is it to 
>> replace/repair the heat exchanger core?
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer, now Boom Brake

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I was a product safety lawyer for a number of years including autos and 
industrial machinery such as power presses. The number one rule is to never let 
the user be within a danger zone, for example hands should never be allowed 
under the ram of a press even if the operator tried to do so.  By extension, 
the boom should be high enough so that even on an uncontrolled jibe it should 
clear the head of all onboard (rather than clear them of their head).   
Moreover, the safety of a topping lift can be vastly enhanced with a rigid 
Vang. The wind at the level of the boom is not very strong compared to the top 
of the mast so if you are tall enough to be hit you are better off shortening 
the sail and raising the boom and adding sail higher up with more roach.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 17, 2019, at 9:05 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I think this is an interesting read: 
> https://www.sail-world.com/news/208083/?source=email or even better: 
> https://www.maritimenz.govt.nz/commercial/safety/accidents-reporting/accident-reports/documents/Platino-mnz-accident-report-2016.pdf
>  (from the horse’s mouth, a PDF).
>  
> Even with the boom preventer one should be careful how the boats is helmed.  
>  
> The main issue there was not related to the boom preventer, but the preventer 
> itself was incorrectly rigged and failed catastrophically.
>  
> On any boat of reasonable size (anything bigger than a dingy) I always gybe 
> using the mainsheet to bring the boom to the centreline and then releasing it 
> in controlled manner. By doing it always, I make sure that I would do it 
> correctly, when the wind is strong enough to make any damage.
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2019 19:37
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer, now Boom Brake
>  
> In my opinion boom brakes are more work and clutter than they are worth.  I 
> always tend the mainsheet when performing a gybe.  By tend I mean center the 
> traveler and pull in the sheet to center the boom.  As the gybe occurs I 
> quickly release the sheet.  On multiple occasions I've seen main sails pop as 
> a result of uncontrolled or "forced over" gybes.
>  
> Care is always required when going downwind but with an attentive helmsman a 
> preventer can sometimes be avoided.  Most boats are actually slower dead 
> downwind so pick one side or the other.  The most often time when a preventer 
> is unavoidable is wing and wing.
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
>  
>  
>  
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019, 11:08 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Thanks for all the info on preventers.  I plan to use the advice to rig one 
> when spring finally arrives and use it on long downwind cruises.  This 
> discussion also led me to look into boom brakes.  I have always been 
> concerned about getting hit by the boom on a gybe, and being 6’ 3”, it is a 
> particular problem.  I had never thought of a boom brake as a device for my 
> safety as opposed to the boat’s safety but realize now that this might be 
> well worth installing on both accounts.  They seem to come in simple 
> inexpensive solutions (https://dreamgreen.org/boom-brake) to more complicated 
> and expensive devices (http://www.boom-brake-walder.com).  In all cases, I 
> worry about another couple of lines to trip over when moving on the side 
> decks, thus trading one hazard for another.  Thoughts?  Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

There is an anti slime version of Hydracoat. More expensive. PETTIT PAINT 
Hydrocoat SR Dual-Biocide Ablative Antifouling Paint. Hydrocoat SR takes the 
proven formula of Hydrocoat and adds the slime inhibitor Irgarol for effective 
prevention of tough hard and soft growth. Jerry 
Specifications:Aluminum Safe: Not Aluminum SafeAnti-Slime Additive: Irgarol
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 10, 2019, at 8:28 PM, Mark Baldridge via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The PO of our boat used SeaHawk in Mobile Bay. It looked great at the survey 
> after 2-ish years.
> 
> I'm now in North Carolina in the Pamlico River. Had SeaHawk Biocop TF blue 
> put on May 2017. I had the boat pulled last week to install a a PYI dripless 
> stuffing box and cutlass bearing and the bottom still looks great. I've 
> cleaned it in the water only 3 or 4 times (using scuba) and I've had a short 
> pull and pressure wash twice in almost to two years. I'm in brackish water 
> and in a creek that doesn't get a lot of current. Highly recommend it!
> 
> Mark Baldridge 
> ~~_/) 
> '89 C/40+ "The Edge" 
> Surf City, NC 
> 
>> On 3/10/2019 6:43 PM, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List wrote:
>> I’m curious to see the responses as well.  Last year was my first with 
>> ablative bottom paint and I used TotalBoat Underdog.  Great reviews, but my 
>> experience in the Chesapeake Bay was that I had to be hauled and pressure 
>> washed by late summer, because I couldn’t get the engine above an idle.   
>> The barnacle growth was complete coverage of the prop and about 3” thick 
>> algae forest on the hull with heavy barnacle growth under it.  I know last 
>> year was bad for growth on the bay, but I have to find something better this 
>> year. 
>>  
>> From: John and Maryann Read [mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com] 
>> Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:14 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint
>>  
>> Am searching for a better water based ablative multi season bottom paint.  
>> Moor in a river with salt tidal water so there is a constant water movement. 
>>  Temperature ranges from 55 in early spring to 70 in late August.  Have used 
>> Pettit Hydrocoat SR with less than satisfactory results – much slime.  Came 
>> across SeaHawk which by its claims looks promising.  Anyone have experience??
>>  
>> https://www.bottompaintstore.com/boat-bottom-paint-c-13523.html/boat-bottom-paint-water-based-bottom-paint-c-13523_14116.html/monterey-self-polishing-solvent-free-bottom-paint-p-9484.html
>>  
>> TIA
>>  
>> John and Maryann
>> Legacy III
>> 1982 C 34
>> Noank, CT
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bring back C

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Peter Johnstone is the new Owner of Alerion Yachts which he bought from US 
watercraft and I believe it included C I think they’re still making the 30 
one design in RI but with limited demand. There is one that races in my local 
fleet and flies downwind but is beaten by J109s upwind.  I agree that the new 
boats offer little more than the C of the past, especially in performance. 
They do have roomier interiors and cockpits with beam drawn further aft and 
hard chines and plumb bows.  Usually they have substantially more displacement 
for the same loa but there is no comparison in interior volume.  Th deep drafts 
of the C are a significant drawback for cruising. To many buyers.  They 
could not compete in price if they sold large boats. Look at Tartan and Sabre. 
The prices are almost twice that of Beneteau.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 30, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I wholeheartedly agree with Chuck's commentwhile a new boat always sounds 
> nice, I can't imagine what I would want different on what I have, and for 
> sure I couldn't afford it...(thank you Rob Ball)...; 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596, frozen in...
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> Sent: Wed, Jan 30, 2019 3:59 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bring back C
> 
> That's interesting stuff. 
> 
> I seriously don't think I could afford a newer C if they came back. A boat 
> like mine would cost $200K to $300K. 
> I am happy with what I have.
> 
> Chuck
> 
>> On January 30, 2019 at 3:26 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/206055-what-brands-from-the-70s80s-would-you-resurrect/
>> 
>> If you haven't been over to SA, be warned many of their threads would 
>> make a sailor blush.
>> 
>> That said, C seems the leader in "Brands people would want back" :)
>> 
>> Also the "sort of C" 30 OD class seems to be having issues.
>> 
>> http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/206604-cc-30-implosion/
>> 
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>> C 35 MK I
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Might find one with right dimensions. Jerry 
Hunter OEM Parts

Hunter prop struts and shafts
Everything you need for your power train
http://sbowners.acemlnb.com/lt.php?s=a516042b0af6450bf9b39c6d664ca43e=1267A1621A1A48221

Sent from my iPhone

> 
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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

The older less expensive iPads did not have gps. My friend has one and bought a 
plug in gps for it. You can now get inexpensive WiFi enabled gps or GNSS pucks 
that can interface to the iPad by WiFi or Bluetooth.  These are very nice 
because you can place them where satellite reception is optimal so even if you 
are below deck you get a clear signal. 
GNNS is also very nice because it utilizes US GPS as well as foreign systems 
and operates at 9600 baud rather than 4800. I have one plugged into my computer 
along with OpenCPN and it is fast and deadly accurate. 

GNSS stands for Global Navigation Satellite System, and is the standard generic 
term for satellite navigation systems that provide autonomous geo-spatial 
positioning with global coverage. This term includes e.g. the GPS, GLONASS, 
Galileo, Beidou and other regional systems. GNSS is a term used worldwide The 
advantage to having access to multiple satellites is accuracy, redundancy and 
availability at all times.  Though satellite systems don't often fail, if one 
fails GNSS receivers can pick up signals from other systems.  Also if line of 
sight is obstructed, having access to multiple satellites is also a benefit.  
Common GNSS Systems are GPS, GLONASS, Galileo, Beidou and other regional 
systems.
  
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 19, 2019, at 11:25 AM, G Collins via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I don't think out on the water counts as poor signal conditions.  My Sony 
> android tablet has a built in GPS receiver and runs Navionics perfectly, as 
> does my phone (which has no data plan, hence is not getting a location fix 
> via data).
> 
> Do the cheaper iPads not have a GPS chip in them?
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
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Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

What this discussion is missing is the distinction between stand alone gps and 
assisted or augmented gps found in most mobile or cellular devices. Mobile 
devices having cell service or internet provider can augment gps. If the mobile 
device has no gps and no cell service it can still get a position from WiFi 
connection.  These are usually called location devices rather than gps and will 
only work with internet or cell service within range.  If the device also has a 
gps or has external gps access it will work anywhere that gps signals are 
available which is just about world wide. As long as your charts are downloaded 
on the device it should work anywhere.  The following discussion is from 
Wikipedia. 

Standalone/self-ruling GPS devices depend solely on information from 
satellites. A-GPS augments that by using cell tower data to enhance quality and 
precision when in poor satellite signal conditions. In exceptionally poor 
signal conditions, for example in urban areas, satellite signals may exhibit 
multipath propagation where signals skip off structures, or are weakened by 
meteorological conditions or tree canopy. Some standalone GPS navigators used 
in poor conditions can't fix a position because of satellite signal fracture 
and must wait for better satellite reception. A regular GPS unit may need as 
long as 12.5 minutes (the time needed to download the GPS almanac and 
ephemerides) to resolve the problem and be able to provide a correct 
location.[2]

An assisted GPS system can address these problems by using external data. 
Utilizing this system can come at a cost to the user. For billing purposes, 
network providers often count this as a data access, which can cost money, 
depending on the plan.[3]

To be precise, A-GPS features depend mostly on an internet network or 
connection to an ISP(or CNP, in the case of CP/mobile-phone device linked to a 
cellular network provider data service). A mobile (cell phone, smart phone) 
device with just an L1 front-end radio receiverand no GPS acquisition, 
tracking, and positioning engine only works when it has an internet connection 
to an ISP/CNP, where the position fix is calculated offboard the device itself. 
It doesn't work in areas with no coverage or internet link (or nearby base 
transceiver station (BTS) towers, in the case on CNP service coverage area). 
Without one of those resources, it can't connect to the A-GPS servers usually 
provided by CNPs. On the other hand, a mobile device with a GPS chipset 
requires no data connection to capture and process GPS data into a position 
solution, since it receives data directly from the GPS satellites and is able 
to calculate a position fix itself. However, the availability of a data 
connection can provide assistance to improve the performance of the GPS chip on 
the mobile device.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 19, 2019, at 10:56 AM, T power via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Bruce,
> 
> I was thinking of using a Samsung tablet also. Do you happen to sail 
> offshore, If so are you still able to run a Nav program in real time when out 
> of range of cell and wifi?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Tom Power
> Invictus
> C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bruce Whitmore 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2019 9:43 AM
> To: Rick Brass via CnC-List
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation
>  
> Hello all,
> 
> I am going to mildly disagree with the statements about tablets having to be 
> cellular capable.  I have an old (2014) Samsung Galaxy 10.1 tablet that is 
> wifi only, and it has GPS capability that I have used on my boat.
> 
> So while that statement might be right for other makes and models, it is not 
> correct for my tablet.
> 
> Kindest Regards, 
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Electronic navigation - chartplotters

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

  Is your GPS set to output positions using the corrrect Geodetic Datum?  Jerry
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Tue, Dec 18, 2018 11:22 am
Subject: Stus-List Electronic navigation - chartplotters

Over the weekend I brought Touche' back home to Mandeville for the winter.  
Nice trip but a bit cold for my Southern blood.  Here's something I observed.
For those who rely exclusively on charplotters and electronic navigation, 
here's something you need to look at.  Go to Google Earth and enter the 
following in the search window:   30°18'2.24"N 87°37'34.10"W
That will take you to a marshy island in Portage Creek, a portion of the ICW 
near Orange Beach, AL.  That's where the GPS chartplotter showed the boat 
symbol representing Touche' was when Touche' was actually in the middle of the 
channel adjacent to island.  If I had been using the boat symbol for navigation 
and had been steering to keep the symbol mid-channel, Touche' would have been 
in the trees on the south bank of the ICW.
The GPS continued to show Touche' in the trees on the north bank during the 
entire transit of this section of the ICW.  Having navigated these waters 
dozens of times, I'm very familiar with them but a boater transiting here the 
first time in heavy fog
Once out of the man-made ICW the GPS returned to being fairly accurate.
Just saying, once again, how important it is to use your eyeballs and not rely 
on electronics exclusively for navigation.  Maybe it doesn't seem like a big 
deal when you're in a channel that is well marked but there are lots of areas 
with no marks, no land and seriously shallow shoals or rocks.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Line prices

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

There sellers on EBay for half the price. 
FREE SHIPPING

BRAND NEW

Made in the USA

7/16" (11mm) x 63 feet of Double Braid Polyester Jacket with Dyneema/Technora 
Blend Braided Core Line



Extremely strong, low stretch and durable. A combination of high strength, low 
weight plus low creep, T-900 is an excellent choice for static loads and is a 
more economical option to V-100.

 

Applications of our T-900:

halyards
guys
Uses:  Halyards, Sheets, Guys, Reef Line, Low-Stretch Control Lines, Winch Line

Color:  White with Blue Fleck

Tensile:  14,300 lbs.

This line has a polyester jacket braided over a 12-strand Dyneema/Technora 
blend Core.

Other sizes and colors may be available--please contact.

 

Casto Trading Co.

P.O. Box 1368, 1898 Railroad St.

Statham, GA 30666

PHONE: 770-725-2424 FAX: 770-725-2455

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 13, 2018, at 4:42 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I tried to buy a halyard at West M today. Turns out good high tech line is 
> 25% off. The 40% only was on cheap dock line. 
> When does Defender have their sale?
> Where else should I look?
> 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C 44
> Portland Or 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] inexpensive chartplotter

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

There are many inexpensive AIS receivers that send out WiFi nmea that you can 
use wirelessly on your Android with Open CPN and other programs.  The cheapest 
I know of is QK-A026 Wireless AIS+GPS Receiver
 (7 Reviews)
QK-A026 Wireless AIS+GPS Receiver ,AIS receiver,GPS receiver,NMEA-0183 message 
output,Boat/Yacht/Ship/Marine Electronics,QK-A026
Designed by Quark-elec, Ships from United Kingdom

PreviousNext

$125.99
$94.49

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 20, 2018, at 10:02 AM, ahycrace via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a 10 inch samsung with Opencpn and have opencpn on my sam phone. I 
> would like to get ais as well , can I do that with my tablet? I have an old 
> green screen Raytheon radar and would like something newer but this unit is 
> working ok so that is on the back burner. I also have  a Dell laptop that is 
> running an old program that I really like called Chartview. I can download 
> govt. Charts for free. So far I haven't found a program that I like better 
> and with new updated charts I guess it's as good as most of the new things 
> out there now. I like it more than Opencpn probably because I'm so used to it.
> 
> Gary Kolc "Liberty" 38' MK II
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy Tablet
> 
> ---- Original message 
> From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
> Date: 10/19/18 9:00 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jerome Tauber 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]inexpensive chartplotter
> 
> I use a laptop with free OpenCPN at home for planning cruises.  It has a full 
> library of NOAA raster charts identical to paper.  I have a GNSS puck plugged 
> into computer which gives me foreign satellite systems as well as US GPS.  It 
> is remarkable at $19.95.  I also have a small Daisy AIS receiver attached 
> $69.  On my IPhone I have PlantoNav with cmap charts.  Works well. On my 
> Android I have OpenCPN.  It can receive WiFi input for AIS and down load grib 
> charts if in internet range.   OpenCPN does not run on IPad.  At the helm of 
> the boat I have a Garmin 74 series chart plotter.  Under $500. It’s 7 inches 
> and readable under all conditions.  I have a daisy two channel AIS receiver 
> attached that works beautifully.  $89. It’s has its own rail mounted antenna 
> and picks up boats up to 15 miles away. Garmin Vector charts.  My mast top 
> vhf antenna doubles as a 2 meter ham antenna.  If I had unlimited budget I’d 
> get a multi function display and nmea 2000 network for all devices including 
> radar.  I currently have a dedicated Raytheon radar non digital.  Never use 
> it.  Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] inexpensive chartplotter

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I use a laptop with free OpenCPN at home for planning cruises.  It has a full 
library of NOAA raster charts identical to paper.  I have a GNSS puck plugged 
into computer which gives me foreign satellite systems as well as US GPS.  It 
is remarkable at $19.95.  I also have a small Daisy AIS receiver attached $69.  
On my IPhone I have PlantoNav with cmap charts.  Works well. On my Android I 
have OpenCPN.  It can receive WiFi input for AIS and down load grib charts if 
in internet range.   OpenCPN does not run on IPad.  At the helm of the boat I 
have a Garmin 74 series chart plotter.  Under $500. It’s 7 inches and readable 
under all conditions.  I have a daisy two channel AIS receiver attached that 
works beautifully.  $89. It’s has its own rail mounted antenna and picks up 
boats up to 15 miles away. Garmin Vector charts.  My mast top vhf antenna 
doubles as a 2 meter ham antenna.  If I had unlimited budget I’d get a multi 
function display and nmea 2000 network for all devices including radar.  I 
currently have a dedicated Raytheon radar non digital.  Never use it.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 19, 2018, at 5:47 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wow, that’s a lot to take in for sure!
> I have Raymarine  C90W on Halcyon,see a lot of those out there,  however my 
> Center Console has a small Simrad  Go7 that came with the boat Talk about 
> simple ! very user friendly 3-4 years old  so they bout give em away ! 
>  
> John Conklin
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, October 19, 2018 8:47:40 AM
> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] inexpensive chartplotter
>  
> Is this for helm mounting or at the chart table?
> I have an old Standard-Horizon CP180 at the helm, a laptop running OpenCPN at 
> the chart table, iNav-X running on an old iPad I can carry around, plus 
> Navionics on my phone.
> Here is my rundown:
> Computer with OpenCPN – Absolutely blows everything else away. Large 
> beautiful display, easy to use, and free! (software) The drawbacks are high 
> power consumption, not visible from the helm, and not as rugged as marine 
> hardware.
> CP180 – This is right at the helm. Daylight readable display, low power 
> consumption, and waterproof are all to the good plus I can watch it and steer 
> at the same time. The drawbacks are mainly that you have to buy the chart 
> cartridge and the screen is tiny compared to a 15” laptop display. The AIS 
> target display is not nearly as nice as OpenCPN.
> iPad – I got a free old iPad from a family member who upgraded. I hooked up a 
> wifi gateway to my NMEA bus and the iPad picks up the GPS and AIS info. 
> Navionics does not do AIS, so I had to go with iNavX. Mixed feelings about 
> this one. The display is much bigger than a phone, which is nice. iNavX is 
> IMHO a crude and klugey app compared to Navionics, but it does get the data 
> for AIS target display. The iPad is not able to get wet nor is it very good 
> in sunlight.
> iPhone – I love my Navionics app. It does not do AIS (dang!), but it is an 
> excellent nav program. I wouldn’t want to rely on my phone, it is not 
> waterproof and full time GPS use runs the battery down, but most of us have a 
> smart phones anyway, I can’t see any reason NOT to have a nav program and you 
> have it with you on other boats.
>  
> For buying new, there are a fair number of small/medium sized plotters 
> available from Garmin, Lowrance, Raymarine, Sitex, etc.  My advice would be 
> try them in the store and zoom in on a tricky area you would need the plotter 
> for. My “torture test” is Kent Narrows. Some of the plotters were terrible 
> zoomed in and some were good. Also note the “free” charts included are one 
> thing and then you may be able to buy better charts with more detail. If you 
> plan on a network of devices, now this is an entirely different deal because 
> everything needs to work together.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris 
> Graham via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 19, 2018 8:13 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chris Graham
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List inexpensive chartplotter
>  
> So I'm a bit torn over what to do here, the boat has a mount for an iPad and 
> the past owner use the iPad with Navigation apps and I am tempted to go that 
> route, but I know that iPads have their drawbacks with visibility due to 
> glare, limited functions and are not designed to withstand the harsh elements 
> of the marine environment.
>  
> I really don't need much so I am probably leaning toward the ipad due to 
> cost, but if I were to consider a small dependable unit what suggestions 
> might you have for me? There are too many choices to scroll through on the 
> internet and it leaves me more confused than when I first started the search. 
> What models have you had success with?
>  
> Chris
> 

Re: Stus-List AGM Batteries

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

https://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/magazine/2012/january/hazards.asp

Emergent Technologies, Evolving Hazards
New lithium-ion batteries pack a lot of energy. Here's why that could be a 
problem on boats.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 17, 2018, at 8:12 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Some battery facts:
> 1.   Flooded lead acid, AGM, gel, and lithium batteries all have 
> different charge voltages and resting voltages.
> 2.   If you connect different types together, one of those types won’t be 
> charged optimally.
> 3.   If you connect different types together, the one with the higher 
> resting voltage will discharge into the one with the lower resting voltage.
> 4.   Lithium batteries are the best in every way but price. They need a 
> specialized charging and management system as well that isn’t cheap.
> 5.   Gel batteries last longer than AGMs, but they are not as easy to 
> find and are quickly killed by overcharging.
> 6.   AGM batteries are easier to get and are quickly killed by 
> undercharging.
> 7.   The cheapest way to get deep cycle batteries – by far – is to buy 
> golf cart batteries.
> 8.   East-Penn Deka makes gel and AGM batteries for West Marine. They 
> also make GRP 31 AGMs with a private label for Sam’s Club that are the exact 
> same battery  for half the price.
> 9.   Adding more batteries and doing nothing else only helps for a 
> weekend. Once you are out long enough to run them down, you need a way to 
> charge them faster than the stock system or you just trade frequent engine 
> use in for less frequent but longer engine use.
> 10.   Solar + LEDs helps *a ton*!
> Joe
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List AGM Batterries

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I had two gel cell batteries on my 27-5.  I took one home over the winter and 
put it on a smart auto trickle charger.  It was dead when I put it back on the 
boat.  The one I left was still working.  I replaced them with flooded and had 
no problems over the winter.  Flooded were a fraction of the price.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 16, 2018, at 5:46 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Just because it works doesn’t mean that you are going to get optimal results. 
>  Follow the link below to see the differences between flooded and AGM
> 
> https://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/TrojanBattery_UsersGuide.pdf
> 
> Josh 
> 
>> On Tue, Oct 16, 2018, 4:47 PM Robert Boyer  wrote:
>> I have been cruising for over 2 years with 4 AGMs (Group 31) and a 110-amp 
>> alternator plus solar panels.  Smart regulator was not needed.
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> Annapolis, MD 
>> 
>>> On Oct 16, 2018, at 4:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> David,
>>> 
>>> You need to look at the battery manufacturer's info to know the charge 
>>> profile for your batteries.  To change the alternator charge profile you'll 
>>> probably need to install an external regulator.  The most important part of 
>>> the profile is the max charging voltage.  Most AGMs are limited to 14.6 but 
>>> it could be lower.  Some stock alternators have a default max voltage of 
>>> 14.4v.  This gives some flexibility and margin.
>>> 
>>> Josh
>>> 
>>> On Oct 16, 2018 11:26 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I have AGM batteries and they are charged exclusively by the alternator or 
>>> solar panel.  In neither case do I know of a way to regulate the charging 
>>> for compatibility with AGM.  The charger for shore power is set for AGM, 
>>> but I rarely use it.  Is there something I should be doing with the 
>>> alternator with the AGMs?  Thanks- Dave
>>> 
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Oct 16, 2018, at 11:10 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 You should also be aware that there are different types of chemistry in 
 AGM batteries. My new ProNautic charger has 4 different programs for 
 charging AGM batteries, and at least one of those is pretty much identical 
 to the programs available for lead-acid. But the instruction manual for 
 the charger tells you to be sure to contact the battery supplier to 
 identify the exact type of AGM you are using so you can be sure to setup 
 the proper charging profile.
  
 Have you thought about going to Lithium batteries? A boater on my dock is 
 in process of installing 4 of them on his O’Day. Cost of the batteries is 
 about $300 each – which isn’t dramatically higher than good AGMs, His bank 
 will be between 400 and 500 AH (I forget exactly what he told me), but 
 with Lithium batteries you can use more than 50% of the bank capacity 
 without harming the batteries… you just need the correct charge profile 
 (and a higher capacity charger).
  
 Rick Brass
 Washington, NC
  
  
  
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Anyone know a Tartan 33 named Spry in Point Pleasant NJ?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I raced on a T33 with Scheel Keel.  It was very competitive and easily sailed 
to its rating.  The T34 was the same boat with an extended stern.  A T28 with a 
deep fin could out point us but the T33 was much faster off the wind.  These 
are 80’s boat not to be confused with the classic T33 of the seventies that had 
a centerboard.  

Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2018, at 9:15 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Friend of mine had a Tartan 33 masthead (it also comes as a fractional).  It 
> had structural issues at the keel stump.  I personally re-attached a couple 
> of structural members which spanned the bilge which had come loose.  Looked 
> like Tartan hadn't properly prepped the bonding surface when they tabbed the 
> structural members.
> 
> The boat was plagued by recurring structural cracks in the hull where it 
> curved down to the keel stub.  The owner even worked with Tim Jackett, the 
> designer, to develop a fix.  The fix was so expensive the owner finally sold 
> the boat through a salvage site and moved on.
> 
> Not saying all T33's are plagued but just one data point. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Wed, Sep 26, 2018 at 7:40 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Friends are looking to get a boat a bit more suited for extended cruising 
>> than their current 30 footer (redwing).  They also wish to be able to enter 
>> the occasional club race (white sail, shorthanded with only 2 or 3) and want 
>> something with a draft 5 feet or under.
>> 
>> One boat that has been suggested is the Tartan 33 (not the Tartan 10).  In 
>> Point Pleasant NJ there is a yachtworld listing for what appears to be an 
>> excellent example of this boat with many recent upgrades.  On the surface 
>> this appears to be an ideal boat.  Does anyone on the list have any 
>> familiarity with the boat?
>> 
>> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1980/Tartan-33-3088679/Point-Pleasant/NJ/United-States?refSource=browse%20listing#.W6t9J3tKipo
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> Persistence
>> 
>> Halifax, NS
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Attractions on Long Island?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Bayles Boat shop in Port Jeff is a community boat building shop well worth a 
visit. http://www.lisec.org/. Port Jeff itself is worth a visit for a boater.  
The Long Island Marine Museum in West Sayville is also worth a visit. 
https://www.limaritime.org/. And if you make it as far as Sag Harbor there is 
Whaling Museum and the town itself is an old Seaport with many yachts.  They 
have an active race fleet on Wednesday eves.  I am out in Montauk at the very 
end of the South Fork and the eastern most point in NY.  Probably too far for 
you to venture but worth a visit.   Jerry 

Jerry 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2018, at 10:35 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
> 
> Personally, I don’t think any of the museums (maritime or other) are worth it 
> on Long Island, but there are some cool places to go and visit. 
> 
> 1. Port Jefferson (great shops and restaurants — all on the waterfront)
> 2. Greenport — It’s a little bit of a drive from mid-island, but the area is 
> beautiful. Great town to walk through, wonderful seafood restaurants, and a 
> ferry to Shelter Island)
> 
> Though I haven’t been there in some time, Northport is nice, as is Oyster 
> Bay. On the South Shore is Jones Beach, the Hamptons and Montauk. 
> 
> If it’s a rainy day, set the Admiral loose in Roosevelt Field — a high-end 
> shopping mall, complete with a Neeman Marcus (a/k/a "Needless Markup")
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Aug 30, 2018, at 10:23 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I will be accompanying the Admiral as she makes a business trip to central 
> Long Island in a couple weeks.  I'll have a free day or two.  I see some 
> maritime museums listed in the area.  Any of them worthwhile?  Any other 
> things that are recommended?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Should I ditch the SSB

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

You should have an antenna tuner near the backstay.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 15, 2018, at 2:34 PM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Be sure to get the SWR checked on the rig/antenna.  If the SWR is too high, 
> you can really fry the radio.
> 
> Neil
> 1982 C 32 FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD
> W3NEA (amateur)
> RROP
> 
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>  
> From: 30471433000n behalf of 
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2018 2:23 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Should I ditch the SSB
>  
> Call sign is different from the MMSI. Often for boats it's something like 
> WTF1234. 
> Andy 
> 
> Andrew Burton 
> 61 W Narragansett 
> Newport, RI 
> USA 02840 
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> +401 965-5260 
> 
> > On Aug 15, 2018, at 14:19, Dan via CnC-List  wrote: 
> > 
> > Yes I can get an MMSI number for free from the Canadian government but it 
> > just gives me a number I can use/say over the air... I guess in an 
> > emergency they can use it to look up my vessel data, etc. and save a lot of 
> > questions in a crisis - they will probably ask those questions regardless. 
> > 
> > Dan 
> > 
> > 
> > ___ 
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > 
> 
> ___ 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Should I ditch the SSB

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

In the US all that's required is a valid Ship Station license and a lifetime 
Restricted Radiotelephone Operator's permit. No testing required! The Ship 
Station license is good for 10 years and is non-transferable.  If you want to 
use the ham bands in US or Canada you have to pass an exam.  More info is 
available on the ARRL website.  You have to see if your radio will operate on 
the ham bands.   Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 15, 2018, at 2:22 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Call sign is different from the MMSI. Often for boats it's something like 
> WTF1234.
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Aug 15, 2018, at 14:19, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> Yes I can get an MMSI number for free from the Canadian government but it 
>> just gives me a number I can use/say over the air... I guess in an emergency 
>> they can use it to look up my vessel data, etc. and save a lot of questions 
>> in a crisis - they will probably ask those questions regardless.
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Should I ditch the SSB

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Marine SSB will connect you to many maritime nets for weather and safety 
reports as well as to the cost guard.  It will allow you to send email and 
position reports as well as receive weather gribs.  Most marine ssb radios will 
open to the ham bands and connect you to millions of hams and to marine 
maritime networks.  You will have to get a license for that.  Marine ssb will 
work anywhere in the world and is not dependent on satellites.  It is also for 
the most part free.  SSB also has DSC if new enough. 

Iridium is probably more reliable for communication with an individual but will 
not be heard by other boaters.  It is also still relatively expensive.  If your 
concern is calling home Iridium or similar service is far superior to SSB.  

You can communicate with the 
Global Maritime Distress and Safety System (GMDSS) to provide the communication 
support needed to implement the global search and rescue from either but your 
best bet here is a EPIRB.  

I have an Amateur SSB radio on my boat.  It consumes about 200 Watts (about 20 
amps) when transmitting.  Most marine ssb put out about 150 Watts but consume 
about 300 Watts (around 30 amps) when transmitting. Satellite phones use much 
less power usually under 5 Watts.  Many have their own rechargeable batteries.  

I guess the best way to look at it is comparing a modern VHF radio to a cell 
phone for near shore communication.  

Jerry 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I have an SSB radio system in my boat that still works. The antenna appears 
> to be built right into my backstay, and is no longer wired up, however the 
> wire is just coiled up on the transom and could be re-connected. Some local 
> sailors have told me to just simply get rid of it, however it doubles as an 
> HF radio (channel 2182, etc.) which could be handy in an ocean crossing? (I 
> also have VHF and may purchase an Eridium or Sat Phone eventually)
> 
> How many of you guys still hang on to the old SSB? Should I lose it 
> altogether and make space in my nav station for something more up to date and 
> less power consuming?
> 
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List C 27 Mark V for sale NY

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

A friend of mine is selling his very nice 1986 C 27V with Yanmar Diesel.  
Contact Aytug, ay...@neodwell.com.  $7,500.  Jerry 
 
1986 C 27 Mark V, one of C’s finest designs and noted for it’s fast and 
fine sailing characteristics. J is in excellent condition and is fully 
equipped.
Hull: Fin w/transom hung rudder, white fiberglass excellent
LOA: 26.50' LWL: 23.00' Beam: 9.25
SA: 342 ft2, SA/Disp: 20.43
Draft: 4'10"; Disp.4420 lbs.; Ballast:1715 lbs.
Engine: Yanmar: 1GMF Diesel HP: 8 (new exhaust elbow and water pump)
TANKS: Water: 15 gals. Fuel: 10 gals., Holding 10 gals.
DESIGNER: Robert Ball
Sails: 150 Genoa excellent; performance main (2 full top battens re-cut in 
2014); asymmetric spinaker; forespar adjustable whisker pole.
Sail handling: Garhaurer rigid vang 2014, 4 Barient winches, Schaefer roller 
furling, Schaefer traveler rope control, 4 Schaefer genoa cars on coaming and 
window sidedeck, Split backstay with adjuster, forespar tiller extender.
Accommodations: custom cockpit cushions, all cabin cushions excellent, new v-
birth bed 2015; Jabsco head and two sinks (galley and head);Two burner alcohol 
stove; Nicro day-night solar vent, lifesling.
Electronics: Standard Horizon VHF radio, Signet Depth and Speed, Garmin 
Chartplotter (2014); Two batteries - (house and starter 2014) with AC charger 
built in and in cabin voltmeter.

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Re: Stus-List Cozumel

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Sounds like a great cruise.  I went to Cozumel by cruise ship from Ft 
Lauderdale a few years ago.  Would love to visit Cuba by boat. Do you have a 
ham radio on board.  I could contact you on 20 meters from Montauk, NY.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 5, 2018, at 7:54 PM, Kevin Benoit via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I’m in Cuba now but will be sailing over to either Isla Mujeres or Cozumel 
> around the 18th-20th if the weather cooperates. Happy to take you guys out if 
> we end up there at the same time. Shoot me an email. kbenoit...@gmail.com
> 
> Kevin Benoit
> S/V Guru
> 1976 C 36 MKII
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Aug 1, 2018 at 11:15 AM jason shoemake via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Anyone in Cozumel?
>> We’re, the admiral and I and two other couples, are getting away to Mexico 
>> the end of August and first few days of September. 
>> Do we have a C representative on the island that would be interested in a 
>> few hour cruise? 
>> The other couples have never sailed, all I can google up is catamarans, they 
>> need to feel the heel of a monohull. No fishing, diving or swimming, just 
>> enjoy the breeze. I’ll supply refreshing beverages 
>> Thanks,
>> Jason 
>> C 29 I
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Kevin Benoit 225-205-2373 Sent from My IPhone
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Bad ground on the starter motor.  I had same issue.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:47 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Yanmar  makes a relay that goes on the solenoid so that the switch is 
> activating the relay instead of the starter. The relay requires minimal 
> current. 
> Easier than tracing wires or replacing wiring harnesses. 
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 9:33 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar 
>> engines.  Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is 
>> occasionally exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the 
>> button for a few tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over 
>> after 2 or 3 clicks, engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are 
>> fine, cranking speed is fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or 
>> wiring??  Can someone point me to the thread or advise the consensus of the 
>> fix?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> 
>> Legacy III
>> 
>> 1982 C 34
>> 
>> Noank, CT
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 149, Issue 88

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Is this the Glenn Henderson of Hunter Marine and designer of the SR series. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 24, 2018, at 10:09 AM, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for that! I bet a dollar I have Smoke White. It could definitely be 
> described as that. I will let you know how it turns out.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Glenn Henderson
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 24, 2018 at 7:48 AM,  wrote:
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>1. Re:  Deck Gelcoat Colour (Ken Heaton)
>>2. Re:  Mast shoe wood shims (Dave S)
>>3.  Going to the DARK SIDE (Robert Gallagher)
>> 
>> 
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Ken Heaton 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: 
>> Bcc: 
>> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2018 21:26:33 -0300
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Gelcoat Colour
>> The most common deck colour by far was 'Smoke White'.
>> 
>> There were a few boats built with 'White' decks, but not many.  You had the 
>> choice when ordering your boat.
>> 
>> Of the 44 x C 37/40 I have records for one was "Neptunus White, three were 
>> 'White' and one was 'Pure White'.  All the rest, 38 of them, are 'Smoke 
>> White'.
>> 
>> Oh, and one was 'Cloud Grey'. Different...
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>>> On Sat, 23 Jun 2018 at 11:48, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I just bought a 1984 C 41 sailed it from Rhode Island to Tampa Bay. I 
>>> really enjoy sailing this boat.
>>> 
>>> It has several gel-cot cracks radiating from the highly loaded hardware. I 
>>> am going to try the MagicEzy product to repair these. Assuming C used the 
>>> same deck gelcoat color on all boats, does anyone know which of the white 
>>> colors they offer more closely matches the C color?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Glenn Henderson
>>> 
 On Sat, Jun 23, 2018 at 8:15 AM,  wrote:
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
 cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
 cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
 
 Today's Topics:
 
1.  Mast shoe wood shims (Chuck S)
2. Re:  Mast shoe wood shims (Randy Stafford)
3.  (no subject) (Skip Hankins)
4. Re:  Free Sails for C 37+ (John Conklin)
 
 
 -- Forwarded message --
 From: Chuck S 
 To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 Cc: 
 Bcc: 
 Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2018 16:27:58 -0400 (EDT)
 Subject: Stus-List Mast shoe wood shims
 Hi guys,
 
 Two of the eight wooden shims that sit in the aluminum shoe to hold the 
 mast foot in position, were rotted, so I fabricated new ones.  I chose 
 teak because I had some thick scraps that matched.  Now I'm wondering if I 
 should seal them. 
 
 
 
 I have Cetol, Watco oil, or West system epoxy to choose from.  Not sure 
 which would be the best.   
 
 
 
 Chuck Scheaffer
 
 Resolute
 1990 C 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
 
 
 
 -- Forwarded message --
 From: Randy Stafford 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: 
 Bcc: 
 Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2018 14:53:31 -0600
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast shoe wood shims
 I did the same thing this offseason Chuck - fabricated a half-dozen 4&3/4” 
 x 1&3/4" x 1/4" teak shims to sit on edge in the mast box so I could 
 fine-tune the fore-and-aft position of my mast base (and I think I’ve got 
 it 1/4” too far aft this season).  Since I had Cetol Marine Natural Teak 
 and Gloss on hand from other brightwork projects, I just went ahead and 
 finished my shims with that.
 
 Cheers,
 Randy Stafford
 S/V Grenadine
 C 30-1 #7
 Ken Caryl, CO
 
> On Jun 22, 2018, at 2:27 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Two of the eight wooden shims that sit in the aluminum shoe to hold the 
> mast foot in position, were rotted, so I fabricated new ones.  I chose 
> teak because I had some thick scraps that matched.  Now I'm wondering if 
> I should seal them. 
> 
> 
> 
> I have Cetol, Watco oil, or West system 

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Tie off

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I had Johnson folding cleats on my toe rail and sliding on my genoa tracks.  
Folding cleat worked well for spring line and can be folded out of way went not 
in use.  Genoa track cleats constantly hung up sheets when tacking.  

Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 19, 2018, at 8:22 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Have been contemplating this as well.
> 
> Wichard makes a toe rail padeye for this purpose.  Spendy.
> 
> There is the commonly available folding cleat.  To me it looks flimsy though 
> those who use them like them.
> 
> A u-bolt properly backed could be installed.
> 
> To distribute the load the line could be led through a lead on the toerail 
> and cleated elsewhere if that’s a concern.   
> 
> Track mounted cleat could be used with a fairl lead as above.  On my 33-2 I 
> want the entire track travel for available though.
> 
> I attach my Jacklines by pushing the end loop through the toerail then 
> inserting a carabiner through the loop so it functions as a toggle.  This way 
> the clip is not taking the load, and the anodizing is not damaged.   
> 
> I may do a similar toggle arrangement for a toerail dockline and tether the 
> carabiner to a spliced eye.This is quick, versatile and cheap, but the 
> line would be subject to a small amount of chafe on the toerail perforation. 
> 
> Where we attach things to the toerail, I mark the location with coloured 
> cable ties.
> 
> My $.02.
> 
> 
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 19, 2018, at 6:40 AM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>> 
>> We have a pair of foldable cleats on our 33-ll and the have worked well for 
>> us, and we need them for our slip. To me the hull deck join is one of the 
>> stronger sections of the board, and most of the load is almost parallel to 
>> the hull. We’ve had no issues in 10+ years of use, and my sister has them on 
>> her 30 with similar results.
>> 
>> I would not use them to tie off with the line at a right angle to thr hull 
>> though.
>> 
>> Paul
>>  
>> From: 30131624100n behalf of 
>> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2018 11:27 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: John Conklin
>> Subject: Stus-List Toe Rail Tie off
>>  
>> On My 1982 37 I have only  bow and stern cleats. There is  no place except 
>> the Toe rail to tie My fore and aft spring lines. And I need them  on my 
>> docking situation.
>> Question - Is this fine to do tie off direct to toe rail with clip of 
>> Carabiner ? and what are the methods of attachment? How about Cafe?
>>  Do the Toe Rail cleats ( foldable)  they sell work ? or what about the or 
>> the cleat for the genoa track ? is this worth the price? Any other thoughts 
>> ideas are welcome
>> THANKS !
>>  
>> John Conklin
>> s/v Halcyon
>> Oriental NC
>>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I used it for years on my 27.   The build up got so bad that it cost me over 
$1,000 to have it removed.   The gelcoat underneath was like new though.   Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Sent: Sun, Apr 22, 2018 7:54 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

Rejex.

http://rejex.com/marine/

http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
6-oz-/14823.uts


Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
swears by it.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Wax

Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
that would work for gel coat.
Cheers
Andy
Formerly,
 C 40
Peregrine
Now,
Baltic 47
Masquerade

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Stus-List 29-2 bargain NY

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

http://www.swiftpage7.com/SpeClicks.aspx?X=2Z1CHQY1IW3FAPX40YZHW5
Sent from my iPhone___

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Re: Stus-List Looking for cheap digital compass

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Clipper Compass System w/Remote Fluxgate Sensor [CL-C]  

Brand New

$300.09 


List price: 
Previous Price  
$329.00 


or Best Offer   

Free Shipping



CLIPPER COMPASS SYSTEM WITH REMOTE FLUXGATE SENSOR  

Brand New

$300.10 

Buy It Now  

Free Shipping   

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Tue, Jan 30, 2018 4:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Looking for cheap digital compass



All,


When I did my first Annapolis Bermuda race the crew of The Office wanted a 
digital compass forward of the traveler.  My cheapskate solution - my iPhone in 
a RAM mount running iRegatta with a long charging cable worked great (except 
for the text messages that popped up down the Bay).  It was replaced with a 
used plotter from a fellow C


I have ST60 gauges for wind, speed and depth over the companionway, but none 
display heading.  They are networked to my plotter.  


I don't want to spend for a TackTick or Prostart.  I know I can go to the phone 
and solar charger again, but is there a better solution?  I've looked for a 
waterproof digital compass, but I'm coming up empty.



-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551






Virus-free. www.avg.com 



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Re: Stus-List wrapping life sling

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Sunbrella lifesling covers
Any color, fits over existing bag to match your existing canvas.
DETAILS  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 5, 2018, at 6:53 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Buy sunbrella and then make a bag. easy to do.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List toe rails

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I found that Armor All original brings them back to life.  Black and shiny.  
Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 29, 2017, at 7:43 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Bill,
> 
> I suggest you try a test patch of Penetrol. Apply a very thin film with a rag 
> and see how you like it.
> 
> It is a very old product made by the Flood Company. 
> Search out some forums on how people use it. Interesting. If I recall 
> correctly, Dennis is also a fan of Penetrol.
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 11:14 AM 29/12/2017, you wrote:
> 
>> Any recommendations for product to use on toe rails on which anodized black 
>> is hazy, whitish, but intact.
>> Thanks in advance.
>> Bill Walker CnC 36
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List iNAV

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

You can us Open CPN on an Android device not an IPad.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 28, 2017, at 3:44 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> OpenCpn on PC or other stuff on iPad. I do US only
> 
> Joel 
> 
>> On Thu, Dec 28, 2017 at 1:41 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I think it is “or”, not “on”
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Marek
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
>> Barba via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 12:24
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Joe Della Barba 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List iNAV
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> How the heck do you use OpenCPN on an iPad?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joe
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On 12/28/2017 11:48 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> For planning I use OpenCPN or my Ipad with Garmin BlueChart (no longer 
>> supported) or Navionics.  On the boat I have an e7 plotter and OpenCPN and 
>> my phone and/or IPad.  I like redundant independent systems.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It is more important that you use your tools correctly than have a specific 
>> piece of gear/software.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Virus-free. www.avg.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Dec 28, 2017 at 10:41 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Well, as one who regularly uses an iPad as a nav tool, I guess my nav skills 
>> are inappropriate! I admit to (boast of) being something of a traditionalist 
>> when it comes to all things maritime--it took me until ten years ago to 
>> leave my sextant behind when I'd head offshore--but neither am I a Luddite. 
>> It's a foolish navigator who doesn't use every tool at his disposal to keep 
>> his vessel safe. For a couple of decades celestial navigation was the only 
>> tool I had available, which made landfalls quite a tricky business. 
>> Especially finding Bermuda on a hazy day. And in those days the BVI had few 
>> if any lights on the north shore at night, so we'd heave to until dawn so we 
>> could avoid all the reefs.
>> 
>> The technology is good and when you mix it with good seamanship can be used 
>> very successfully. Part of good seamanship is not to completely trust any 
>> one input when it comes to navigation; along the coast I will check bearings 
>> and depth, for instance, to be sure I'm getting good info from my iPad. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Andy
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> 
>> Newport, RI 
>> 
>> USA02840
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> 
>> +401 965-5260
>> 
>> 
>> On Dec 28, 2017, at 09:44, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Sure let’s get our abacus out and do some plotting.  Oh ya don’t forget the 
>> sextant.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> S/V Persuasion
>> C 37 Keel/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
>> 
>> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:37 AM
>> 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List iNAV
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> shall we start a discussion on how inappropriate it is to use an iPad as a 
>> navigation tool? (;-)
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Merry after Christmas
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Marek
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List
>> 
>> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 09:17
>> 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> Cc: Russ & Melody
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List iNAV
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> Blame the navigator, not the tools... and if the navigator is a tool then it 
>> still gets the blame.
>> 
>> At the risk of sounding like a techno-peasant, is the iNav another apple 
>> thingy? I'm still stuck on OpenCPN  or  Visual Navigator (without a dongle) 
>> on an XP box .
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>>  
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   

Re: Stus-List Looking for a C 35 MKI

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Mike. There is one at the Miramar Yacht club in Brooklyn, NY that was owned by 
an excellent sailor who was the club champion.  Very fast and good condition.  
Good price.  Owner Is Irv Shapiro.  Club info is 

Tel:  (718) 769 - 3548
Email: s...@miramaryc.com
Contact me if you want more information not.  Jerry 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 18, 2017, at 4:48 PM, Mike Casey via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if anyone knows 
> of a C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike Casey
> ___
>   Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 18, 2017, at 4:48 PM, Mike Casey via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi folks, it's probably the wrong time of year for this, but if anyone knows 
> of a C 35 MKI for sale, would you please let me know?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike Casey
> __
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Re: Stus-List One other question....

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

http://alliedplasticlumber.com/category/lumber-sizes-colors.html.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 18, 2017, at 9:24 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On the slider, there is a piece of teak that is used to push open & pull 
> closed the hatch from the outside.  
> 
> I'd like to replace that with something more maintenance free, and I'm 
> thinking either something like a bar of starboard or PVC.
> 
> What would you recommend?  
> 
> Thanks!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Mooring Rights -- Any "Sea Lawyers" on the List?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

https://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/showthread.php?t=834=cast+adrift

Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 9, 2017, at 12:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> First, I'd search the laws and regulations concerning that particular mooring 
> field.  What documents do you have concerning your right to your gear and 
> that location, i.e. permits, etc.?  Like this:
> 
> http://codes.findlaw.com/ny/navigation-law/nav-sect-46-a.html
> 
> Once you determine what your rights are and have located and re-read your 
> permitting documents, call the public safety department which has 
> jurisdiction over the mooring field.  
> 
> The bad news is you may have to start an eviction process which may take 
> several weeks.  The good news, you don't need the mooring for several months.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Thu, Nov 9, 2017 at 10:42 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> Looking for some advice/experience on this non-C issue:
>> 
>> As most of you know, I hauled the Enterprise for the winter about a month 
>> ago. The company that winterizes moorings has informed me this morning that 
>> a boat (no mast) has been on my mooring for a few weeks now (without my 
>> permission or knowledge.) 
>> 
>> The mooring is owned by me. Same with the mooring ball and gear. There is 
>> nothing that is attached to this mystery boat that can be considered club 
>> owned or public domain. 
>> 
>> I have reached out to the club to see if they know anything about it, but no 
>> response. My club is very loose when it comes to people’s property and 
>> rights. 
>> 
>> Anyone have any suggestions on what my next steps would be? TowBoat US 
>> doesn’t seem to want to touch it. Do I call the police? What would they do? 
>> What can I do? I’m under the impression that this falls under theft and 
>> trespassing. 
>> 
>> Any thoughts?  
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Yes sorry joe is correct. Baudrate for ais is 38.4k.  This can be set in open 
cpn as I indicated.   Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 8, 2017, at 11:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> AIS is at 38.4 K, not 4800.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
> Tauber via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2017 11:05 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jerome Tauber <jrtau...@aol.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring
>  
> If you are using a USB port you have to set up a virtual serial port.  Make 
> sure the serial port is set to the proper baud rate for AIS.  This can be 
> done via Open CPN.  Go to options- connections. Click add connection serial 
> port and baudrate 4800, protocol NMEA 0183.  If no ports are listed you must 
> create a virtual port using software the came with your ais receiver or 
> download any virtual USB to serial software.  Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Nov 8, 2017, at 10:46 AM, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
>  
> 
> Got the unit and hooked it up to laptop running OpenCPN and SeaClear III.
> 
>  
> 
> Went to beach with whip VHF antennae to test.   Nuthin'.  
> 
>  
> 
> That might be because there was nuthin' sending AIS signals  or the laptop 
> was not communicating via the port.
> 
>  
> 
> Any tricks you may pass along before I dive into the internet abyss ?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
>  
> 
> David F. Risch
> 
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
> via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2017 11:02 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring
>  
> I just ordered this: 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/NMEA-0183-to-WiFi-BRIDGE-/182598371832
> 
> $37 or so US dollars shipped free from Australia. They have two NMEA channel 
> versions too.
> 
> I was tempted to stick the AIS in my car and drive over the Bay Bridge, it 
> surely will get picked up 200 feet in the air, but then thought of a tanker 
> hitting a cruise ship and then they both hit the bridge and knock it over 
> while avoiding getting rammed by the westbound boat doing 60 knots made me 
> rethink my plan.
> 
> Speaking of which, there is at least one airplane flying around with AIS. 
> Freaked me out the first time I saw a 99 knot “boat” hit dry land and keep 
> going! I had a weird symbol, maybe an circle with an X IIRC/
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
> Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 10:56 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring
> 
>  
> 
> Joe,
> 
>  
> 
> Look for yourself on Marine Traffic.  Or let me know when the unit has been 
> on for a while.
> 
>  
> 
> Please let me know how the NMEA WiFi bridge works.  Could be much simpler 
> than what I am trying to do with Signal K  and a router.
> 
>  
> 
> Joel
> 
>  
> 
> On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 10:39 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> I have the AIS unit now. I wish I hadn’t been so quick to ship the old one, I 
> would like to see it work and apparently I have no shore station in reach of 
> my location at the dock. All the lights are good, the diagnostics are all 
> good, and it says it is transmitting. I guess I have to get out from behind 
> the buildings and out in the Bay to actually see myself online.
> 
> Another question has come up. I just got an old Gen 2 IPad I am going to try 
> along with my other toys. It is the Wi-Fi version, no GPS built in. So I 
> ordered a NMEA>WIFI bridge from FleaBay that should allow this, and my phone, 
> to get the GPS and AIS data. Two questions:
> 
> 1.   Has anyone used the Navionics app with Wi-Fi data like this? The app 
> itself isn’t real helpful, it basically says connect your device and it will 
> work. Well thanks for that tip!
> 
> 2.   Anyone have Navionics on more than one device? When I got the IPad 
> on my account I have every single app ready to port over that I have on the 
> phone including Navionics Hiking, but NOT the Navionics marine navigation 
> app? Is this some Apple malfunction or is Navionics trying to g

Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

If you are using a USB port you have to set up a virtual serial port.  Make 
sure the serial port is set to the proper baud rate for AIS.  This can be done 
via Open CPN.  Go to options- connections. Click add connection serial port and 
baudrate 4800, protocol NMEA 0183.  If no ports are listed you must create a 
virtual port using software the came with your ais receiver or download any 
virtual USB to serial software.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 8, 2017, at 10:46 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
> 
> Got the unit and hooked it up to laptop running OpenCPN and SeaClear III.
> 
> 
> Went to beach with whip VHF antennae to test.   Nuthin'.   
> 
> That might be because there was nuthin' sending AIS signals  or the laptop 
> was not communicating via the port.
> 
> 
> Any tricks you may pass along before I dive into the internet abyss ?
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, November 6, 2017 11:02 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring
>  
> I just ordered this: 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/NMEA-0183-to-WiFi-BRIDGE-/182598371832
> 
> $37 or so US dollars shipped free from Australia. They have two NMEA channel 
> versions too.
> 
> I was tempted to stick the AIS in my car and drive over the Bay Bridge, it 
> surely will get picked up 200 feet in the air, but then thought of a tanker 
> hitting a cruise ship and then they both hit the bridge and knock it over 
> while avoiding getting rammed by the westbound boat doing 60 knots made me 
> rethink my plan.
> 
> Speaking of which, there is at least one airplane flying around with AIS. 
> Freaked me out the first time I saw a 99 knot “boat” hit dry land and keep 
> going! I had a weird symbol, maybe an circle with an X IIRC/
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
> Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, November 06, 2017 10:56 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring
> 
>  
> 
> Joe,
> 
>  
> 
> Look for yourself on Marine Traffic.  Or let me know when the unit has been 
> on for a while.
> 
>  
> 
> Please let me know how the NMEA WiFi bridge works.  Could be much simpler 
> than what I am trying to do with Signal K  and a router.
> 
>  
> 
> Joel
> 
>  
> 
> On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 10:39 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have the AIS unit now. I wish I hadn’t been so quick to ship the old one, I 
> would like to see it work and apparently I have no shore station in reach of 
> my location at the dock. All the lights are good, the diagnostics are all 
> good, and it says it is transmitting. I guess I have to get out from behind 
> the buildings and out in the Bay to actually see myself online.
> 
> Another question has come up. I just got an old Gen 2 IPad I am going to try 
> along with my other toys. It is the Wi-Fi version, no GPS built in. So I 
> ordered a NMEA>WIFI bridge from FleaBay that should allow this, and my phone, 
> to get the GPS and AIS data. Two questions:
> 
> 1.   Has anyone used the Navionics app with Wi-Fi data like this? The app 
> itself isn’t real helpful, it basically says connect your device and it will 
> work. Well thanks for that tip!
> 
> 2.   Anyone have Navionics on more than one device? When I got the IPad 
> on my account I have every single app ready to port over that I have on the 
> phone including Navionics Hiking, but NOT the Navionics marine navigation 
> app? Is this some Apple malfunction or is Navionics trying to get paid twice? 
> If I have to buy it again, I can get INAV-X for about half the price.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN 
> BERGEN via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, October 30, 2017 12:13 PM
> To: C 
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS improvement + general rewiring
> 
>  
> 
> Joe:
> 
> I have an AIT2000 and Raymarine C80 MFD. The AIS out goes to the C80 NMEA 
> 0183 in and the AIS in goes to the C80 out.  Since I have a separate GPS, 
> that connects to my VHF for the DSC connection.  I use a separate VHF antenna 
> for the AIS, and it can be used as a VHF antenna in case I ever lose my mast. 
>   I had difficulty connecting the AIS to my laptop (something to do with the 
> software I'm using), so I connected my GPS to the laptop as well as to the 
> VHF/DSC connections.
> 
>  
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> 
> Rose City YC
> 
> Portland, OR
> 
>  
> 
> On Mon, Oct 30, 2017 at 8:03 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> 

Re: Stus-List Prop Strut Source

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/sailboat-struts
Universal sailboat struts.  
Jerry 


Sent from my iPhone___

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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Mineral oil.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 28, 2017, at 6:24 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The 
> manufacturer sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper 
> alternative.  I've used vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up the 
> pump.  A friend uses motor oil but I worry about it not being compatible with 
> the rubber parts.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Schaefer genoa car modification

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I have the standard Schaefer pin stop double aluminum genoa cars that were 
standard on many 80s CHas anyone ever removed the pins and tapped and 
screwed on a bail to connect a block and make them towable.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 27, 2017, at 10:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I agree with Joel, starboard is too flexible and will, IMO, probably bend.
> 
> Why not use 1/4 or 1/8 FRP from McMaster-Carr?  You can buy it in sheets of 
> 2'x4' through 2'x8'
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Sep 27, 2017 9:29 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> I have acquired a very tired Dyer Dow sailing dinghy.   Rebuilding the while 
>> thing. In replacing center board it seems 1/4"starboard would be fine for 
>> its 1x3 dimensikns.   3/8 is too heavy .
>> 
>> Any experience with this size of starboard in this application?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> 1981 40-2
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List The Voyage and the C Northeast Rendezvous in Greenport (Captain's Log: Stardate 11772.3)

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Sailed from 3 Mile Harbor Sunday morning for Greenport but ran out of wind and 
ended up in Coecles Harbor Shelter Island.  Crew did not want to motor.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 21, 2017, at 3:14 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> In case anyone is interested, here’s a little write-up of our voyage and 
> experiences at the 2017 C Rendezvous in Greenport:
> 
> http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/2017/09/stardate-117723.html 
> 
> Hope to see everyone in 2018 in Port Jeff! Details coming soon.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Just sailed to Newport for the boat show. No Sabre, Hunter or C sailboats. 
One Catalina.  One J.  Two Tartans.  U.S. sailboat industry going the way of 
Canada's.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:05 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I joined the sabre group when shopping for our current boat.   They let me 
> stay even though I bought a tartan!  Awesome group!  Tartan group is really 
> great too!   They are both as friendly knowledgeable and helpful as this 
> group just not as many in number! 
> 
> I would love to combine all 3!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> 
>  Original message 
> From: jackbrennan via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/18/17 7:10 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: jackbrennan 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none
> 
> People on this list should be complimented that so many former C owners 
> continue to lurk here.
> 
> I for one think it's the one of best sources of reliable information on the 
> Internet for maintaining and upgrading sailboats. Dennis, Fred, Wally and 
> many others have given me quite an education over the 16 years I've been 
> reading their posts.
> 
> Other email sailing lists tend to be plagued by a scarcity of real experts, 
> flamers, know nothings who believe they know it all, big personalities who 
> argue at the drop of a hat and more. This list somehow tends to avoid all of 
> that.
> 
> Besides, who knows, maybe someday we'll come back to the C fold. :) 
> 
> I know that if I could get some lingering health issues under control, I 
> might be tempted by the right Landfall or a centerboard C for more extended 
> cruising.
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Former C 25
> Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> Date:09/18/2017 5:51 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none 
> 
> Fred,
> 
>  
> 
> Why are you suddenly so friendly? In the past non-C lurkers where 
> threatened with keelhauling…
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
> 
> 1994 C270 legato
> 
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
>  
> 
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 16:09
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> On Sep 18, 2017, at 2:00 PM, David Castor via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> Mostly lurk on this list since I bought a Sabre instead of C 
> 
>  
> 
> We forgive you…   :^)   Actually, my slip neighbor has a Sabre 36, and it’s a 
> beautiful boat.  I may go that way someday, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

H.  I think I'll bring my deflector shield just in case.   Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 6, 2017, at 11:03 AM, coltrek via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Pretty cool. Can I buy one of those?
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Bill Coleman 
>  C 39
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> Date: 9/5/17 09:14 (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Edd Schillay  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts??? 
> 
> Yes Jerry. You should come! 
> 
> We will not fire any photon torpedoes at your Hunter -- promise. 
> 
> ... though I can't make any promises to other non-C who show up. Here is 
> an example of when the Enterprise was approached by a hostile Taylor 34 sloop:
> 
> https://youtu.be/_hja2puzxwk
> 
> Departing Norwalk in 45 minutes. Next stop: Milford Yacht Club. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
> C 37+ 
> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New York
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 7
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Sep 5, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Jerry,
> Come to the Rendezvous. Bring the Hunter. It will be fun. We can marvel at 
> the amenities:).  This is more about people than boats. Ama and I would love 
> to see you and Janet. 
> 
> Damn the torpedoes, full steam ahead!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I once enquired about a slip there (One 15) and almost fell over when they told 
me the price.  Is a nice view though.   I'm in Three Mile Harbor about an 
hour's sail from Greenport but must confess I'm now on a Hunter 37.5.  May stop 
by to say hello as long as I am not torpedoed.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 4, 2017, at 8:02 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Tomorrow is Norwalk Cove. Tonight is One15 marina in Brooklyn looking at 
> skyline of NYC. Unfortunately I'm drinking all the rum allocated for the 
> rendezvous. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 5:10 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Are you going to visit sunset grill?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>> Date: 9/4/17 4:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Edd Schillay 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
>> 
>> Norwalk Cove Marina. Slip A10E. 
>> 
>> Day One of our (Star) Trek to the C Rendezvous in Greenport. 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
>> C 37+ 
>> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, New York
>> ---
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone 7
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> 
>> 
>> On Sep 4, 2017, at 1:06 PM, Paul Marble via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Green Cove Springs, Florida
>> 
>> Paul Marble
>> S/V Tina Marie
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I owned a C 24, 29-2 and 27-5.   I just sold my 27-5 and bought a Hunter 37.5 
1993 with a friend.  We wanted a boat that had two private berths.  He is more 
of a cruiser and I like a performance boat.  We looked at a number of boats.  
My first choice was a Tartan 372 but we compromised on the Hunter.  It had a 
reputation for being a good sailor and the interior volume is enormous for a 37 
foot boat.  It has a compromised 5' wing keel.  I've sailed it all season and 
can say it is definitely not a C  Off the wind and on a broad reach it 
performs very well but does not point as well as a C with a fin. It has a J 
boat type rig.  Huge mainsail and small fractional head sail with a bendy 
tapered mast.  Sails are old and it needs some go fast upgrades such as a 
backstay adjuster, folding prop and rigid vang.  The aft cabin is huge and well 
ventilated.  And of course the price is well below a C of that era.  I'm just 
across Gardners Bay from Greenport and may stop by for the rendezvous.   Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 25, 2017, at 8:51 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If you look at any recent CatBenHun in the 34-36 foot range, any version of 
> the C 35 is going to seem quite small and cramped. Any of the 35s will of 
> course sail 10x better, but that does not always matter to some people.
> 
> Warning - the "have to have it" aft double bunk under the cockpit is a long 
> way from the air coming down the forward hatch and right next to the hot 
> engine. It may not be the cruising paradise your wife thinks it is ;)
> 
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> C 35 MK I
> 
>> On 08/25/2017 07:41 AM, G Collins via CnC-List wrote:
>> My wife and I love cruising our 35-3, what do you see as deficiencies?
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C 35-III #11
>>> 
>>> From: Dave via CnC-List 
>>> To: schiller  
>>> Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 1:55 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase
>>> 
>>> Congrats on the C 35 MK3. I own a 1984 MK3, am in 1st place in our 
>>> Wednesday night racing series and enjoy the boat immensely. It's a pleasure 
>>> to sail.
>>> 
>>> My wife, the boss doesn't race and would like to have more of a "cruiser". 
>>> So although this will be a very hard decision for me I may be putting the 
>>> boat up for sale in the fall.
>>> 
>>> Best of luck,
>>> 
>>> Dave J
>>> Saltaire
>>> C 35 MK3
>>> Bristol, RI
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: "schiller via CnC-List" 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: "schiller" 
>>> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 2:21:52 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase
>>> 
>>> Well, we went to Charlevoix to look at the 1981 C 32.  Not the boat for 
>>> us.  Interior has not been taken care of.  Buckets under the portlights to 
>>> catch the leaks, forward hatch so crazed that it looks like it might break 
>>> with a big rain drop, floor so bad that it was mushy in front the mast and 
>>> head door.  Too bad really, it was really a nice layout.
>>> 
>>> So, called the owner of the 35 and negotiated a deal over the phone.  We 
>>> will soon be the proud owners of a 1983 C 35, Mark III.  I talked with 
>>> the surveyor that did the previous survey.  He has retired but has agreed 
>>> to do an incremental survey.
>>> 
>>> Neil Schiller
>>> Soon to be 1983 C 35, Mark III
>>> Currently "Grace"
>>> In Muskegon to be relocated to White Lake, Michigan
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> 
>>> On Aug 23, 2017, at 10:45 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Is the mast step a more difficult repair than on the 30-1?
>>> Ron
>>> Wild Cheri
>>> C 30-1
>>> STL
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: Dave S via CnC-List 
>>> To: JP Mail  
>>> Cc: Dave S ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 6:26 PM
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase
>>> 
>>> Do make sure that with the 35-3, that you and your surveyor research then 
>>> examine very closely the keel stub/mast step area.  Several on this list 
>>> have repaired theirs, and a pro repair is an expensive proposition.
>>> 
>>> Dave 
>>> 33-2
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> 

Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

According to sailboat data online "
The LANDFALL 38 shares the same hull design as the C 38-2 but with a  
shallower keel, shorter rig and entirely different interior. Built at C's 
Rhode Island (USA) plant."   Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: john wright via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: john wright 
Sent: Mon, Aug 14, 2017 7:52 pm
Subject: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

Trying to resolve a friendly dispute. Are the 38 and the Landfall 38 from the 
same mold?

Thanks
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Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I'm heading for BI Friday and then Newport Saturday and Sunday. Thought races 
were over weekend.  Jerry Ragtime Hunter 37.5.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 11, 2017, at 4:34 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> com


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Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Make sure you put a fuse near battery preferably on both pos and neg side.  
Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 30, 2017, at 5:25 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Chris,
> 
> I just did that this year.  It's straightforward.  You just have to have all 
> the supplies and tools.  On my 30-1 the three-way switches for the bilge 
> pumps (I have two) are mounted under the galley sink, through the plywood 
> separating the starboard lazaret from the space under the galley sink.  If 
> you mount your switch there, you'll need a drill and jigsaw to cut a hole for 
> the switch.
> 
> Then you'll need some ring terminals matching the size of your battery's 
> studs and the size of your wire.  If the wiring on your switch and pump is 
> 16-gauge like mine, it's easiest to get bulk 16-gauge wire in red and black. 
> You'll need some 16-gauge butt connectors to connect the wires on the back of 
> the switch to the wires on the pump and to the wire run over to the battery.  
> And you'll need a wire cutter, wire stripper, and a crimping tool.
> 
> In my case since I have two batteries and two pumps, I mounted terminal 
> strips enclosed in junction boxes to the plywood near the batteries (port 
> side), and near the switches (starboard side).  I connected the positive 
> studs of both batteries to one terminal strip, and the negative studs to the 
> other.  Then I did one run of red and black over to the terminal strips on 
> the starboard side where the pump switch leads connected.  And of course 
> you'll want some cable clamps to run the wires neatly and keep them in place.
> 
> You can get all the stuff you need at West Marine, though the tools are 
> probably less expensive elsewhere.  I think I bought my crimper at Harbor 
> Freight.  And a good reference on boat electrical systems is 
> https://www.amazon.com/Caseys-Complete-Illustrated-Sailboat-Maintenance/dp/0071462848
>  - I recommend it.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> From: "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" 
> To: "cnc-list" 
> Cc: "Chris Hobson" 
> Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 11:23:32 AM
> Subject: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery
> 
> Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
> panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
> not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install 
> a switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
> consequences of electricity.
> 
> Chris Hobson
> s/v Going
> 1980 C 30 MK1
> Hull #615
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List feckless meanderings - Dylan

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Boots Of Spanish Leather
WRITTEN BY: BOB DYLAN 
Oh, I’m sailin’ away my own true love
I’m sailin’ away in the morning
Is there something I can send you from across the sea
From the place that I’ll be landing?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 30, 2017, at 4:33 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The song Mr. Tambourine Man does have the line "take me on a trip upon your 
> magic swirlin' ship", and there is a C here with the name Magic Swirlin' 
> Ship
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>> On 2017-07-30 1:46 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
>> "I am younger than that now."
>> 
>> Must be a Dylan fan.
>> Does he have any songs about sailboats?  Anything we can adapt to old C?
>> Finally had a day under 90 F friday and went out sailing.  Winds at 20 with 
>> gusts as high as 28mph; used my 160% genny only and it was a great choice, 
>> although tacking took a while.  Once through the tack, the wind just kept 
>> blowing the bow down.  Had to gain speed and nurse it back to windward.  
>> Downwind was a blast!
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
>> 
>> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Dennis C. 
>> Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 5:57 PM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws
>> 
>> Too funny. After my post favoring SS rivets, I get to Touché today to see 
>> 1/4 inch Phillips machine screws on the vang bracket. :)
>> 
>> Well, it was many years ago when I installed it; I am younger than that now. 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Jul 27, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> One thing to remember about the Garhauer vang is that the attachment to both 
>> the mast and the boom are custom made for the boat (you send them the 
>> profile of the mast and boom when you order the vang), and the plates 
>> attached to the mast and boom wrap significantly around the spars. (On my 25 
>> about half of the boom is cradled in the attached plate. ) So the fasteners 
>> connecting the plate to the spar are under primarily shear loading, not 
>> tensile.
>>  
>> For this sort of configuration, the additional cross section of the machine 
>> screw (or cap screw, if you use those) would seem the better choice. If, 
>> however, you have something like a Boomkicker, or a vang with “generic” 
>> mounting plates that don’t curve around the spars, rivets might be a better 
>> choice.
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
>> la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
>> Washington, NC
>>  
>> BTW, both have Garhauer vangs.
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Update to Broken Mast

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

> Why bother unless you have a new diesel.   You can buy a replacement in good 
> condition for half that.  
> Jerry 
> http://m.sailboatlistings.com/view/65970
> 35' C 35 MK II 
> 
> Year   
>   Length   
> 35Beam   
> 11Draft   
> 5'6   Asking 
> $14,000  
> 
> Description:
> Located in St Clair Shores MI - Jefferson Beach Marina Michigan 
> This Coast Guard documented vessel is in great condition, and priced to sell. 
> The owners, past and present have take really good care of it. The interior 
> cushions are new and the engine and sails are in good condition as well. It 
> has two and a half births. One is closed off and private. If you need more 
> photo's or would like to come out to see it, just let me know.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 13, 2017, at 4:55 PM, schiller via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Corsair is out of the water and safely on her cradle.
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Re: Stus-List c 27

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

C 27-V folding prop size as per manual is 13x9.   Martec recommended 12x12 as 
well.  
Jerry 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 12, 2017, at 12:53 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> What is the recommended propeller for this boat. Has a 1 gm in it.
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20 now ICom 506

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Check for a firmware update for the radio.   Jerry

 

-Original Message-
From: John McKay via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: John McKay <jmckay...@yahoo.ca>
Sent: Thu, May 25, 2017 10:16 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20 now ICom 506



I originated this issue.


Remove the ICOM radio from my network and the GNX 20 displays  functions. Left 
it running for two days and went out for a sail.


We found some date on line that some N2K compliant radios are not fully 
compatible.


Now have to come up with something so the DSC function on my ICOM works.


Thanks for all your comments


John on Enterprise
C 33 MK II
Komoka ON
 



 
 
 
 On Wednesday, May 24, 2017 9:03 AM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  

 

Agreed with Paul - my n2k/AIS ICOM m506 displays GPS data from the n2k Garmin 
antenna reliably.  In fact an alarm goes off to warn me of no gps data if I 
turn off the instruments but not the gps.  


Similarly, the ais data provided by the M506 displays on The Raymarine i70 
display.  So, it works both ways.


This worked all last season as well, so if there was an issue it predates late 
2015/2016.  (Radio purchased Jan 2016) 


What does not work is getting the AIS data to via gateway to devices outside 
the wired n2k network.   Working on that.


Dave




Sent from my iPhone


On May 24, 2017, at 5:29 AM, Paul Fountain <p...@seasource.ca> wrote:







Not sure this is still the case ... I just installed an icom 506 AIS/ N2K 
radio, and it and my ray N2K MFD they recognized each other and the radio got 
the gps info right away, and the AIS info was showing on the MFD once the 
antenna was connected. There are no 0183 devices left on Perception. 


Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Jerome Tauber via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 3:56:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20
 

>From a cruising forum.

So my partner contacted ICOM UK, who said that despite what is printed in the 
manual,the Icom M506 does not support obtaining a GPS position over NMEA 2000. 
The menu option to select an NMEA 2000 GPS source does nothing.

Apparently they had compatibility issues with different manufacturers' MFDs 
when designing the radio, so at the last minute they pulled support for 
obtaining position information via NMEA 2000. They have asked ICOM Japan for a 
firmware update to fix this, but none has been forthcoming.

So caveat emptor. I would still recommend this radio, on the proviso that you 
are able to provide position info via NMEA 0183. Without it you will still get 
AIS on your plotter (but not the radio), but the radio will not be able to make 
GPS tagged DSC calls, which is obviously concerning.

It's advertised as a fully native NMEA 2000 device, but at this time it is not.

Jerry







-Original Message-
From: John McKay via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: John McKay <jmckay...@yahoo.ca>
Sent: Tue, May 23, 2017 9:02 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20



I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a schematic of 
everything on it and they have not suggested changes.


I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display right next 
(T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the GMI 20 works 
flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between the T's. Garmin cannot 
explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 continues flawlessly.


Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.


John







On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:





Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.






Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI







On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



John – 
 
Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available online.  
N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power consumption of 
all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure you’re inline.  
N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in case that 
accidently happened.  
 
Others can probably provide more thoughts. 




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to

Re: Stus-List Honey - was RE: A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was C 39 trash project

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Looking at the photo of the underbody the new keel is longer and more vertical 
than the old shark fin type keel.  This would both increase and bring the 
center of lateral resistance forward and increase weather helm.   The small 
rudder cannot handle this.   Bringing the center of effort forward would help.  
This can be done by moving the mast forward on its step and decreasing rake.   
Moving the headstay forward, as suggested would also help.   Higher aspect main 
with more roach might help as well.   Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Thu, May 25, 2017 9:53 am
Subject: Stus-List Honey - was RE: A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was C 
39 trash project



Maybe more than it could be sold for but definitely not more than it is worth.  
Worth is measured in more than dollars and the reality is that to take any boat 
and make it as it should be can be many thousands or tens of thousands more 
than the purchase price.  The only difference as I see it is that spending 
$20,000 on regular maintenance on a newer $250,000 boat seems more normal than 
doing so on an older $40,000 boat.  They are both still sailboats and cost the 
same to run.
 
Lavishing attention on our boats is often reward enough by itself and some may 
suggest that it is more rewarding to some of us than doing the same to people!
 
Mike
Persistence
Also spent way too much over the past 4 years (and the 10+ before that!)
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2017 9:08 AM
To: C
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald
Subject: Re: Stus-List A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was C 39 trash 
project
 

I have sailed and raced my 39TM at least 100,000 miles since purchase in 1975 
and even with the original rudder never suffered the round up issued mention 
earlier in the thread. However, in late 1976 C sent me a new and updated 
deeper rudder "free of charge" and the boat just simply sailed even better. 
Then in 2002, I had new high aspect rudder designed and built for Honey and 
improvement was beyond belief. Sadly, the maintenance, new UK sails & general 
upkeep over the last 4 years costs more than the boat is worth. I can honestly 
say that our C 39 TM has aged like a fine wine, after 42 years of owning her 
she just keeps getting better, I just wish that her value would increase as 
well.

 

I agree, the 39 is the prettiest of the hulls that C built and they built 
some damn good looking boats.

 






Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald

HONEY

US12788

 

 





 

On Thu, May 25, 2017 at 7:13 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The 39s may have issues, but I swear they have to be about the prettiest thing 
C ever madeJ
I wonder if a short bowsprit and moving the forestay out half a foot would 
solve the roundup issue. My 35 MK I looks a lot like a 39 with a few feet cut 
off and we don’t suffer that round-up issue to that extent at all.
 
Joe
Coquina
 


 



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Re: Stus-List A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was C 39 trash project

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

8' draft.  Can sail it in the Mariana Trench but not where I sale.   Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 24, 2017, at 11:24 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wow, what a great boat! If I didn't have my current boat, I would be 
> seriously looking at at that one! Its hard to believe that this is the same 
> model as the neglected one about to be trashed! Thanks Mike for sharing this.
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4
> 
> Richard N. Bush  
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
> Sent: Wed, May 24, 2017 8:26 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was C 39 trash 
> project
> 
> On a more positive note Ceilidh is for sale.  This is a 1973 C 39 TM with a 
> deeper keel.  This boat is in excellent condition.  It is listed on 
> Yachtworld by Sunnybrook Yachts but can easily be found by going to 
> www.sunnybrookyachts.com
>  
> I am in no way affiliated with the sale of this boat or with Sunnybrook.  
> However when you hear of a boat dying it is often uplifting to look at one of 
> the finest examples of the same vessel. It is also heartening after seeing a 
> beautiful boat neglected to see the same model that has been given the 
> attention all boats deserve!
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frers 33
> Halifax, NS
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
> Fitzgerald via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 5:00 PM
> To: C
> Cc: Jack Fitzgerald
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed
>  
> We have owned our 39-TM since 1975. I pains me to see someone let a C, 
> especially a 39 become a derelict. I doubt that there are any usable parts 
> left to use beyond the salvage price of the lead in the keel. What a shame!!!
> 
> Best regards,
> Jack & Beth Fitzgerald 
> S/V HONEY
> US12788
>  
>  
>  
> On Tue, May 23, 2017 at 3:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Parts boat for someone who already owns one.
>  
> On May 23, 2017 3:32 PM, "Craig Cochran via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> As a 39 owner, that's painfull 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> Date: 23/05/2017 16:59 (GMT+00:00) 
> To: C List  
> Cc: Josh Muckley  
> Subject: Stus-List C 39 project being trashed
> Somebody looking for a cheap project boat?  Kills me to see a boat get 
> destroyed.
>  
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/sailboatsforsale/permalink/1536653003119915/?sale_post_id=1536653003119915
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

>From a cruising forum.

So my partner contacted ICOM UK, who said that despite what is printed in the 
manual,  the Icom M506 does not support obtaining a GPS position over NMEA 
2000. The menu option to select an NMEA 2000 GPS source does nothing.

Apparently they had compatibility issues with different manufacturers' MFDs 
when designing the radio, so at the last minute they pulled support for 
obtaining position information via NMEA 2000. They have asked ICOM Japan for a 
firmware update to fix this, but none has been forthcoming.

So caveat emptor. I would still recommend this radio, on the proviso that you 
are able to provide position info via NMEA 0183. Without it you will still get 
AIS on your plotter (but not the radio), but the radio will not be able to make 
GPS tagged DSC calls, which is obviously concerning.

It's advertised as a fully native NMEA 2000 device, but at this time it is not.

Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: John McKay via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: John McKay 
Sent: Tue, May 23, 2017 9:02 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20



I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a schematic of 
everything on it and they have not suggested changes.


I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display right next 
(T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the GMI 20 works 
flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between the T's. Garmin cannot 
explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 continues flawlessly.


Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.


John


 



 
 
 
 On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  

 

Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.






Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI







On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:



John – 
  
Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available online.  
N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power consumption of 
all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure you’re inline.  
N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in case that 
accidently happened.  
  
Others can probably provide more thoughts. 




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Re: Stus-List Stainless Steel Exhaust Kit for Yanmar 3HM35F

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I bought one and it was fine. Came with gasket.  Jerry J

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2017, at 11:48 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with the stainless steel exhaust elbows 
> available on e-Bay such as:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GMKit-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Kit-Replaces-Yanmar-GM-124070-13520-/332179494684?hash=item4d5770d71c:g:hBsAAOSw3KFWeqXI=mtr
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

If you really want your 35 to sail higher and faster send your keel to Mars and 
have a high aspect modern elliptical keel made for it.  They have plans.  A 
local boat Osprey did this, has a 114 phrf and wins almost every race its in 
over the past 10 years or more.  Jerry J  

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 2, 2017, at 10:21 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I don’t like to sail under the jib alone, either and this was the reason for 
> getting 2 reef points in my main. Different boat, but this allows for much 
> better balanced sailplan.
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Syerdave--- via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2017 21:09
> To: Jake Brodersen 
> Cc: syerd...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35
>  
> An interesting discussion, and agreed on that.   I don't like sailing under 
> headsail alone, but would rather balance the sailplan, play the main sheet in 
> the puffs and tweak the Main's twist and shape with the baby stay, outhaul, 
> traveller.  vs many boats I've sailed the 33-2 is so responsive you can feel 
> the impact of minor changes.   Really looking forward to flying my new main 
> this season.   Keeping the helm light (balance) and the boat on its its feet 
> (not overpowered) works best for me.   
> First I reef, then I furl, but I really hate the Furler  as a sail reduction 
> device.   According to the sailbags, I have a #1 and #3.   There have been 
> times I wished I had one in between, and it would probably be useful.   Don't 
> know how these equate in terms of % of foretriangle.   Anyone know this for a 
> 33-2?
> Several listers referred me to the "maximum sailpower" blog awhile back, and 
> that was an eyeopener into many finer points of sail trim and design that I 
> did not fully appreciate.
> Looking forward to some warmer weather here
>  
> Dave 33-2 Windstar
> Toronto area.
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Wet & Forget   64 oz. Indoor Mold and Mildew Disinfectant Cleaner
Jerry J
Description
Easy-to-use spray and wipe formula
Includes high-capacity sprayer
Designed for indoor use
Wet & Forget Indoor Mold and Mildew Disinfectant Cleaner is the easiest way to 
kill mold and mildew. The convenient spray and wipe formula cleans mold and 
mildew and deodorizes and disinfects in one labor-saving step. Wet & Forget 
Indoor Mold + Mildew Disinfectant Cleaner requires no scrubbing and no rinsing. 
Simply spray mold and mildew prone surfaces, wait 10 minutes and wipe dry with 
a clean cloth, sponge, mop or allow to air dry. Wet & Forget is perfect for 
cleaning mold and mildew in damp areas such as attics, bathrooms, showers, 
kitchens, basements, laundry rooms and other household areas. Wet & Forget 
Indoor is your how-to answer for cleaning mold and mildew inside the home. 

Inhibits the growth of mold and mildew
Cleans, deodorizes and disinfects all in 1
Kills odor-causing bacteria
No bleach or irritating fumes
Pet-safe once dry $14.74 / each

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Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I'm sure you are going to hear this many times but if you don't race why not go 
with an asymmetric spinnaker.  No pole, no down haul and no lift.  Much easier 
to fly and better for reaching in light wind.  Jerry J  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 28, 2017, at 7:41 AM, Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All, 
>This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would like to rig 
> it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with one, but I like 
> the idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I have to install a 
> block for the pole lift and I’m wondering where to install it. In the C 
> manual it shows the pole lift at 22’-0” above the ‘black line’ at base of 
> mast. But I don’t have a black line on my mast, not at the base (which I 
> assume is around the height of boom?) nor at the top of my mast. Does anyone 
> know where I would locate these black lines? or the height of the topping 
> lift from some other reference point? My second question is where to mount 
> the pole downhaul (foreguy) - a? Thanks for this. 
> 
> By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here’s to 
> all the other C owners out there who’s arms are a sore as mine this time of 
> year as we get these boats ready for launch.
> 
> 
> Kevin Deluzio
> S/V Solevento
> C #641
> Kingston, ON
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Has anyone converted an ST Barient winch to electric power. Any ideas on 
whether it can be done beneath winch?  I would like to motorize my halyard 
winch.   New electric winches are astronomically priced.  Jerry J

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Re: Stus-List Used Equipment Site (Chuck Gilchrest) - boatlist.org

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Nice work.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 14, 2017, at 7:46 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Just wanted to chime in here as the guy who started boatlist.org.  
> 
> The site has turned into a little hobby project for me.  It's great to see 
> people using the site and having success.  The site has also been shared with 
> the folks at the Morgan 38 Owners forum and the Pearson 424 owners forum.
> 
> Boatlist.org is not high ranked in the search engines as I just haven't 
> thrown the money into search engine optimization - again it's a hobby project 
> and I have a good old boat that gets most of my extra $$.  The good news is 
> that the people looking at and posting on the site are mostly members of 
> sailboat owners forums, so I think there is a bit of quality control there in 
> terms of who is using the site.
> 
> Anyhow, it's newly redesigned now with an automated posting process.  I get 
> an alert when an ad is posted and I approve most ads within a few minutes as 
> I get a notification on my phone.  
> 
> As usual, let me know if there are ways you think I can improve the site.
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Ryan
> boatlist.org
> Juniper
> 1983 Pearson 424 Ketch 
> (Former 1976 C 30mki owner)
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Eastern LI Sound / Plum Gut Currents

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Ed. Best source is Eldridge.  You are interested in current, not tides.  The 
reference for current at Plum Gut is the Race, Long Island Sound.  Plum Gut 
runs about an hour earlier but this is reported in Eldridge.  The easiest way 
to use it is to use the current diagrams in Eldridge which show current after 
slack before flood and ebb for every hour.  This is very helpful for going 
through the Gut. You can also get current info from 
http://tides.mobilegeographics.com/locations/6433.html or from NOAA 
https://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/currents12/tab2ac3.html#22. Eldridge is worth 
the small investment and the current diagrams are very helpful for entire Long 
Island Sound.  Don't confuse tide and current.  They are not always in synch.  
Jerry J
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 11, 2017, at 3:51 PM, Damian Greene via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd,
> 
> You are looking for more detail than in Eldridge? That worked fine for me.
> 
> Eldridge Tide and Pilot Book 2017
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Damian
> 
> Damian Greene
> C 34 Ghost
> Bass Harbor, Maine
> 
> 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> To: C List  
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 8:25 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Eastern LI Sound / Plum Gut Currents
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Can anyone recommend a source for current data for Plum Gut and the Race in 
> Eastern LI Sound?
> 
> Specifically, I want to know the direction and speed at high tide, 1 hour 
> after high tide, 2 hours after high tide and so on. 
> 
> Similar to something like these for NYC and Hells Gate: 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/NYC-Currents-Battery-High.jpg
>  / 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/NYC-Currents-Battery-Low.jpg
>  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Announcing the 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous! - Sept 8-10, 2017 - Greenport, LI

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I plan on attending.  Have been in there on numerous occasions.  Short 
sale from Three Mile Harbor.  Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2017 3:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Announcing the 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous! - Sept 8-10, 
2017 - Greenport, LI


Listers,


On behalf of Rob Gallagher, David Risch and Don Sweeney, we would would to 
invite you to attend our 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous; September 8-10, 2017 at 
the Mitchell Park Marina in Greenport. 


I’ll save some of the details for later, but here’s a little video (trust me — 
Go full screen and turn the sound way up!) — 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yBSXuHPaQ


Website: cncnortheast.com 



All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Could you retap hole?  "GlowShift’s 1/8 NPT Drill and Tap Kit is perfect kit 
for anyone looking to drill and tap directly into the exhaust manifold or 
intake manifold. The featured 1/8 NPT Tap is used for tapping EGT probes and 
boost gauge fitting holes for gauge sensors that will deliver optimum results 
directly from the source. The size R high speed steel drill bit’s overall 
length is 4 3/4 inches with a 118° point that drills the perfect hole to tap 
into. The cobalt finish increases lubricity and chip flow and can be used in 
various applications."

Jerry 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 4, 2017, at 11:02 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Use the original sender?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
> Brodersen via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 9:41 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jake Brodersen 
> Subject: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install
>  
> Guys,
>  
> I’ve installed an electric VDO oil pressure gauge, but the sensor install is 
> giving me a bit of a problem.  I bought the tee fitting from eBay, like Josh 
> and several others.  It is listed here:   
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BSPT-Oil-Pressure-Sensor-Tee-to-NPT-Adapter-Turbo-Lexus-Toyota-Subaru-Mazda-/351867602261
>   The only issue I have is that the Yanmar sensor sticks out from the block 
> too far and actually touches the alternator belt.  I would like to install a 
> 90 degree elbow and point the sensor down, which I think would solve my 
> problem.  The problem is finding a compatible product.  It would have to be a 
> male-to-female 90 degree (or 45 degree) elbow with 1/8” BSPT threads on both 
> ends.  I’ve found a number of male-to-male fittings, but that won’t quite 
> work.
>  
> I’ve searched a lot and haven’t found anything that would work.  Has anyone 
> else run into this problem?  I don’t have room to relocated the alternator 
> enough to provide clearance.
>  
> Any ideas?
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
> 
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Replaced my exhaust elbow on 1GM last season with a stainless.  They're 
available on eBay.   Made it easier to start and reduced black smoking.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 10:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> 
> If you or the previous owner ran the engine at low rpms frequently, then mix 
> elbow pluggage is more likely.  Diesels, and Yanmars in particular, like high 
> rpm and heavy loads.
> 
> First thing to try is to disconnect the water discharge hose that connects to 
> the mix elbow.  With the engine cold, crank the engine and observe the flow 
> for a short period.  Not long or the hot exhaust will damage the 
> muffler/exhaust hose system.  Reconnect it and observe the water being 
> ejected.  Is it noticeable less?  If so, the mix elbow is partially plugged 
> and should be cleaned.
> 
> If the water flow from the disconnected hose is very low, then start at the 
> discharge of the raw water pump, disconnecting each section and checking for 
> flow with engine running for short periods.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 9:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestion on the mixing elbow. That's my next item on the 
>> list after the injector. I've read that Yanmar had some very big mixing 
>> elbow issues with some falling apart inside from broken welds and pitted 
>> stainless steel issues. 
>> I'm not sure if there's a t-stat. I've never been able to find it. It's 
>> possible there could be blockages in the raw water channels as a piece of 
>> impeller had broke off years ago and could not be found. It was very small 
>> and hopefully went through. 
>> The good news is these are simple engines and Nigel's book has been helpful. 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> Brent
>> 27-5
>> s/v Wild Rover 
>> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

If water is getting into cylinder that could explain the hard start.  When 
engine heats up water is turned to steam and engine will run but with steam in 
exhaust.  If water is getting into crank case you will see it in dip stick as 
honey like clumps.   You can often hear a blown gasket as well.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 8:29 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the terminology correction, yes, it's raw water cooled. It's just 
> a wee single cylinder unit. 
> 
> Brent
> 27-5
> Wild Rover
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:24 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant 
>>> passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If 
>>> the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you 
>>> would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level 
>>> carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where 
>>> it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what 
>>> you are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
>>>> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
>>>> gasket were blown?
>>>> 
>>>> Brent
>>>> 27-5
>>>> Wild Rover. 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such 
>>>>> as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet 
>>>>> smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going 
>>>>> down, with no apparent leak?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Gary
>>>>> S/V Kaylarah
>>>>> '90 C 37+
>>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>>> 
>>>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
>>>>>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector 
>>>>>> starts to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be 
>>>>>> a clean, wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test 
>>>>>> you should do before you send it to a shop.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves 
>>>>>> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the 
>>>>>> pieces with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or 
>>>>>> toluine.  You have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal 
>>>>>> components.  A hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or 
>>>>>> tooth picks.  When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart. 
>>>>>>  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean 
>>>>>> the precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with 
>>>>>> carbon which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll 
>>>>>> probably want to replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  
>>>>>> There's also a lead gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the 
>>>>>> injector and the precombustion chamber.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Josh Muckley
>>>>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>>>> 1989 C 37+
>>>>>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>>&g

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

1GM is raw water cooled.  Jerry J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 6:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as 
> a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
> you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with 
> no apparent leak?
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect 
>> to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  
>> Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone 
>> pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before 
>> you send it to a shop.
>> 
>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of 
>> the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
>> something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have 
>> to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood 
>> scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you 
>> satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray 
>> pattern.  Re-install.
>> 
>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
>> will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
>> the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and 
>> a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion 
>> chamber.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Greetings all.
>>> 
>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>>> the tank.
>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector 
>>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to 
>>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Brent Driedger
>>> 27-5
>>> Wild Rover
>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Prop Pullers

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

While on the subject of propeller pullers if anyone has a folding 13x9x7/8 
propeller they would like to sell I would be interested. Thanks.  Jerry J C 
27 V.   

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Re: Stus-List Yacht club weather station

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

An alternate method of setting up a club weather station is through the amateur 
radio APRS system.  You will need someone with a ham license (technician) is 
good enough and easy to obtain if one is needed.  You don't need internet as 
the data is transmitted via amateur radio APRS HF frequencies.  You do need to 
be in range of a digipeter.  A number of my friends have set these up.  There 
are numerous articles on setting up APRS weather station which you can google 
but I have included a few below.  Jerry 
Connecting a Davis weather station directly to a Ham Radio for the purpose of 
transmitting weather data over the APRS network. Version: A
Amateur Radio - Automatic Weather Stations (APRS) - WX4NHC, the
Florida International University › w4ehw › ...
AMATEUR RADIO - AUTOMATIC WEATHER STATIONS (APRS). Volunteers at WX4NHC, the 
amateur radio station at the National Hurricane ...
Adding an Inexpensive Weather Station to your Shack | Ham Radio Science
Ham Radio Science › adding-an-inexpen...
Feb 16, 2012 - Add an inexpensive computer based weather station to your ... 
via APRS or your neighbors using such services as Weather  ...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 21, 2017, at 10:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Don,
> 
> I have no clue.  It can't be much.  Just a few numbers every so often.  I 
> read through the manual and the specs on the stations product page and did 
> not see anything on data usage.
> 
> http://site.ambientweatherstore.com/Manuals/ws1001wifi.pdf
> 
> You may be able to slow the refresh rate to reduce data usage.  I can ask one 
> of our WiFi gurus tomorrow.
> 
> You can also email the manufacturer.  
> 
> At the very least, you can use it locally with the console.  The console and 
> sensor communicate via RF, not WiFi.
> 
> Dennis
> 
>> On Tue, Mar 21, 2017 at 8:46 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Dennis,
>> 
>> We are quite interested in exploring station at www.ncyc.ca. The regular 
>> weather stations and private Weather Underground stations are physically far 
>> away. The North Channel NOAA style Environment Canada Weather Buoy is our 
>> current go to for current weather. 
>> 
>> Our club is remote enough that neither cable, fibre nor digital phone 
>> internet are available. We do have a cell internet hub with 50G a month 
>> under a special remote and rural internet access program. 
>> 
>> We are curious how much data is used in a day/week/month connecting the 
>> weather information to Weather Underground?
>> 
>> Don
>> 
>> Don Harben
>> Viking 34
>> Life
>> www.ncyc.ca
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 21, 2017, at 7:48 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I got a crazy bug a few months ago to install a weather station at my yacht 
>>> club, Pontchartrain Yacht Club on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain at 
>>> Mandeville, LA. There were no wind stations anywhere close to my club.  
>>> There are some wind data/forecasts available through premium wind services 
>>> or personal weather stations further inland.  
>>> 
>>> I'm sure some of you might have already done this but for those who haven't 
>>> it's really easy to install a weather station, hook it to your club's WiFi 
>>> and then link it to Weather Underground's wundermap.com.  Once you go live 
>>> on wundermap, WU also provides a webpage where you select your weather 
>>> station and it builds the HTML code that you can copy and paste into your 
>>> club's website.  Real time wind data will be available on the website.
>>> 
>>> I tagged a few of the club racers for some $$$ and bought this station:  
>>> 
>>> http://www.ambientweather.com/amws1000wifi.html
>>> 
>>> This weekend we installed it on the club flagpole which stands fairly 
>>> unobstructed in front of our club on the lakefront.  Pics of me and a 
>>> fellow member working on the install are here:  
>>> https://www.facebook.com/PontYC/  (I'm the idiot without the hat!)
>>> 
>>> The station communicates via RF to a console which we installed in our bar 
>>> and connected to the club WiFi.  The race committee can easily look at it 
>>> for skippers meetings.  Connecting it to the club WiFi and to wundermap.com 
>>> was easy and straightforward.
>>> 
>>> To see our station go here:  
>>> 
>>> https://www.wunderground.com/personal-weather-station/dashboard?ID=KLAMANDE128#history
>>> 
>>> Scroll down to the neat graphs!
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> 

Re: Stus-List Drawer and locker latches?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I bought metal replacement Perko latches at West Marine.   They are far 
superior to the plastic and exact same measurements.  Here are some sources 
below for the original plastic and metal.Jerry  J  




Perko CP Zinc Elbow Catch
$24.99
West Marine

In store





Perko Plastic Elbow Catch ...
$5.99
Boaters Plus




Perko 1021Dp0Blk ...
$5.45
Boatstore.com




Perko 1021DP0BLK ...
$9.80
Walmart

Free shipping




Perko Perko Elbow Catch ...
$11.82
Explosive Po...




Perko 1056 Chrome ...
$9.40
eBay


 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
To: C List ; Josh Muckley 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Sent: Sat, Mar 18, 2017 12:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Drawer and locker latches?



Hello all, 



I have a number of the plastic latches on our 1994 C 37/40+ that are broken 
and need to be replaced.


Does anyone know where I can get replacements?  



Ideally, I would love to replace all of them with something that does not 
require us to reach our fingers into the small holes to access the latch - 
those holes are just too small (and I don't have large hands).  



No reference to our commander-in-chief intended!  :^)  



That said, there is nice wood round trim surrounding the holes, so I'm not sure 
I want to tear those up either.  



Anyone have any ideas?  



Thanks!
 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.an

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Part Number
 


Mast Extrusions and Fittings 

Boom Extrusions and Fittings 

Round Tubing 

Sailboat Hardware and Accessories 

Standing Rigging and Rigging Kits 

Pricing and Terms

Abrasive Waterjet Technology 

Company and Contact Information

How to Measure Masts and Booms

Glossary of Spar Terms

Company History and Mission







Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 14, 2017, at 1:55 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This is a tough market in North America for sailboat spar makers and rigging 
> equipment manufacturers.  Late 2016 Hall Spars folded up their US operation 
> in Bristol, RI and now NavTec rigging equipment seems to be following suit. 
> That said, if you need to get virtually any Navtec fitting, Seco South in 
> Largo Florida has been the default “go to” place for replacement bits and 
> pieces, rod rigging, etc.
> https://www.secosouth.com/online-catalog/
>  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Harry 
> Hallgring Jr via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 9:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Harry Hallgring Jr 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.
>  
> Navtec closed last Monday. 
> 
> Harry
> Sent from my iPhone 8 beta
> 
> On Feb 14, 2017, at 09:22, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I just saw something on sailing-anarchy that said that it's just the US side 
> of NavTec that is closing up.
> 
> On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 9:20 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I'm pretty sure that this isn't true. If it is someone need to tell the 
> Emirates Americas Cup Team.
> 
> The last two announcements on the Navtec website were that they were 
> expanding their manufacturing capacity, and that they were discontinuing 
> manufacturing of Norseman fittings. Can the it be that the discontinuation of 
> Norseman fittings has morphed into "out of business"?
> 
> Can anyone confirm Mike's information?
> 
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike 
> Brannon via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 8:06 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike Brannon 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.
> 
> All. NAVTEC has gone out of business.   At the moment it looks like Hayn is 
> trying to take up the slack.   You should be able to have the balls made by a 
> local machinist however, I would look at changing the rigging to either newer 
> style rod fittings or dyform.
> 
> Mike
> Virginia Lee  93295
> C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> Sent from my iPad Mini
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery test

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

> The starter motor can be used for a load test.  Just measure the voltage 
> across the battery terminals while cranking. performs a basic load-test of 
> the battery, using the vehicle’s starter motor. This test is done with the 
> engine cranking. Use care to keep the voltmeter test leads from contacting 
> moving or hot engine parts.
> Tool required: Digital Voltmeter, set on DC Volts
> 
> Test Lead position: across battery terminals.  
> 
> While cranking, read the voltmeter. If the voltage reading is below the 
> minimum listed in the following chart, replace the battery.
> 
> Be aware that other possible causes of low readings in this test are a 
> failing starter motor or an engine with mechanical problems.
> 
> Minimum Battery Load-test Voltage
> 
>   
> Battery Temp Degrees F
> 
> 9.90
> 
> 100
> 
> 9.80
> 
> 90
> 
> 9.70
> 
> 80
> 
> 9.60
> 
> 70
> 
> 9.50
> 
> 60
> 
> 9.40
> 
> 50
> 
> 9.30
> 
> 40
> 
> 9.10
> 
> 30
> 
> 8.90
> 
> 20
> 
> 8.70
> 
> 10
> 
> 8.50
> 
>   
> 0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Battery test

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

The starter motor can be used for a load test. 

STEP 2 of 3

STEP 2 performs a basic load-test of the battery, using the vehicle’s starter 
motor. This test is done with the engine cranking. Use care to keep the 
voltmeter test leads from contacting moving or hot engine parts.

Tool required: Digital Voltmeter, set on DC Volts

Test Lead position: as shown in diagram above

While cranking, read the voltmeter. If the voltage reading is below the minimum 
listed in the following chart, replace the battery.

Be aware that other possible causes of low readings in this test are a failing 
starter motor or an engine with mechanical problems.

Minimum Battery Load-test Voltage


Battery Temp Degrees F

9.90

100

9.80

90

9.70

80

9.60

70

9.50

60

9.40

50

9.30

40

9.10

30

8.90

20

8.70

10

8.50


0




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Re: Stus-List 1979 C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Tim.  Where is boat located.  I am in NYC.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 4:55 PM, tprice--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 1979 C 38MKII
> 
> I’ve Spent two years restoring my 79 C 38 MKII. Been sailing for three 
> seasons, second owner. Ran into an issue with the Keel, some separation at 
> the hull, could be keel bolts, but will require attention and some fiberglass 
> both of which I sadly, don't have the time to invest. First kid is on the way 
> and I need to be realistic. Have all documentation, Coast Guard Certified, 
> original docs, including all restoration work completed, pics, etc. 
> 
> This boat comp is about $38-$40K, the keel repair estimates were coming in at 
> about $10K so pricing to move so somebody can be back in the water by next 
> season. 
>  
> Looking for a reasonable offer and figured I would mail the list to see if 
> there was any interest.  
> 
> Updates and Particulars;
> Westerbeke 35B3 -- Rebuilt 2015 (15 hours)
> Brand New Hood SeaFurl 5
> Updated Fresh Water System, faucets, including head & Shower
> All Head Pipes Replaced, including valves
> WaterWitch Bilge Management System
> Rule 2000, Rule 500 Redundant Bilge System
> RayMarine Instrument Package
> Updated shore power cabin electronics (110 + USB 2.0)
> New Hot Water Heating System
> Interior Refinished
> Solar System and Management
> All new sheaves in Mast
> New Batteries
> Barient 3 Speed (Rebuilt) 2016
> Barient Primary and Secondary winches (All Rebuilt 2016)
> Updated Running Rigging, including secondary Spinnaker Halyard
> Clutches and entire running rigging controlled from cockpit not winch farm at 
> mast
> All Teak, restored
> Full complement of sails
> Tons of extra parts
>  
> Timothy B. Price
> tpr...@ingamemedia.com
> 917.755.6145
>  
> AIM: timbprice, Yahoo: timothyprice_98, SKYPE: Timothy B Price, Twitter: 
> @NYC10075
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

While LMR400 is significantly lower loss than say RG8x the limiting factor in 
VHF communications is still antenna height not power output.  For example the 
range you could expect for a typical sailboat with an antenna height of 64’.
d = 1.2246 ∗ √hf
d = 1.2246 ∗ √64
d = 1.2246 ∗ 8
d = 9.796 NM.  
If the other boats mast is the same height you get a max range of 20 NM.  That 
will not change if you use RG8x or LMR400.  

That said if price and cable thickness do not matter it may be the better 
choice.  On the other hand it is heavier and may be more prone to water 
tunneling because of the greater diameter.  LMR400 is more significant at 
mobile frequencies because loss is much higher in UHF and microwave 
frequencies.  Jerry 
Sent from my iPhone



Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 15, 2017, at 6:24 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> There are some differences in LMR400 that you need to look out for.  Most 
> importantly, it comes in both 50 and 75 ohm impedance ratings.  You need the 
> 50 ohm version.  Secondly, regular LMR400 is pretty stiff, so if you need it 
> to turn somewhat sharp corners (at the masthead / mast base) then you could 
> opt for the "Ultraflex", which is a little thicker, but easier to handle.  
> The connectors you need are PL-259.  I prefer the crimp on versions, but you 
> should ideally use a specific crimp due set, which may not be worth getting 
> for a couple of connections.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> (Ex 35-3)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 5:18 PM -0500, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Pete — I did this last spring; and I’m one of the ones you’re “hearing” 
>> about LMR-400 cable.  LMR-400 has tight specs, so you’re likely seeing 
>> different variations in connectors or manufacturers; but all the LMR-400 
>> cable should be identical in performance, with the exception of the 
>> highly-flexible variant (UF) and direct-burial (DB — which you shouldn’t 
>> need for the boat — if you do, you have bigger issues to deal with…).
>> 
>> You can purchase the cable raw and get the field-installable non-solder 
>> Times Microwave EZ-400-UM connectors.  These are easy to install; not quite 
>> as simple as the Shakespeare Center-pin connectors that Dennis mentioned, 
>> but Shakespeare doesn’t make connectors for LMR-400.  The other thing you 
>> can do (what I did in my case) is to make the hole in the mast large enough 
>> for the PL-259 connectors; then use a Cable Clam as strain relief and to 
>> provide weather protection to the large hole.  This worked great; and I 
>> ordered the LMR-400 cable pre-terminated on Amazon by these guys, who build 
>> to MIL-SPEC: 
>> https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Antenna-Genuine-Transmission-Connector/dp/B005DUXWMU/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8=1484518381=8-25=lmr-400.
>>   They can make whatever length you need.
>> 
>> For VHF antennas, the Metz and GAM are popular; I went with a Digital 
>> Antenna 222-VW antenna: http://www.digitalantenna.com/prods/vhfantenna_3.html
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Jan 15, 2017, at 12:19 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Belated HNY, Listers,
>>> I am having the standing rigging [rod] on my '91 30-2 re-done [hopefully, 
>>> re-headed]. 
>>> 
>>> Now that the mast is down, I am looking to replacement of all the wiring 
>>> and running rigging. 
>>> Regarding the VHF cabling, I am "hearing" that "LMR-400" is superior to 
>>> other alternatives. 
>>> So, I checked Amazon and, of course, found "LMR-400", but there appear to 
>>> be several varieties to choose from.
>>> Or, perhaps, it's simply different terminal fittings on the same cable.  I 
>>> can't tell.
>>> In any event, I would appreciate any feedback on which cabling to use.  I 
>>> need about 44 ft.
>>> 
>>> And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem 
>>> I'll need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make 
>>> sense? 
>>> I would prefer NOT to have to cut and re-solder, but that seems to be 
>>> unavoidable. 
>>> Also, should I replace the interior cabling -- from the mast to the radio 
>>> -- as well? 
>>> 
>>> And finally, any thoughts on the best antenna to use?
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Pete W. 
>>> Siren Song
>>> C 30-2
>>> Deltaville, Va.
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Possible Boom modification

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Why not just shorten the leach on the main sail by about 6 - 12" and have the 
boom higher at the clew than at the tack.   That should clear all heads and 
avoid remounting the goose neck fitting.   You could add a new clew cringle or 
have the foot cut and original clew cringle moved up.   Should not cost very 
much especially since it's loose footed.   Jerry
 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Sent: Sun, Jan 1, 2017 10:40 am
Subject: Stus-List Possible Boom modification


Happy New Year to All!   I would like to get some advice on a modification I am 
considering for my C 34+.  I love the boat, but one thing that has concerned 
me from the beginning has been the boom height.  I am 6’3” and the boom in 
normal sailing position is at head height.  If I were to be standing in the 
cockpit (or even leaning forward at the helm) during an unexpected jibe or 
tack, I would be in serious trouble.  We had someone killed during a race in 
Fishers Island Sound last year in an incident of that sort.  So I am 
considering moving the boom a foot higher.  It looks like a fairly simple 
modification. I would have a new boom attachment fitting welded or bolted to 
the mast, leaving the old one in place.  I would have the sailmaker add 
cringles to create a new tack and clew attachment, leaving the old ones in 
place.  Since the main is loose footed, the extra sailcloth would just sit on 
the boom in the sail pack.  With those changes, it would be easy to reverse the 
alterations in the future. I don’t think anything else would have to be done.  
The only problem I can see is that I would be the only one who can reach the 
head of the main to attach the halyard, but I do that now so not a big deal.  
Thoughts?  Thanks- Dave



Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT





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Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Bow lines should be tied in opposite directions on the sheets so that the 
smooth side is facing in toward the shrouds and will not hang up as easily.  In 
other words starboard sheet has smooth side point in from starboard and port 
sheet points in from port side.  That way knotty side does not hang up on 
shroud.   Jerry J C 27V.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 11, 2016, at 8:18 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Larry, I switched to soft shackle this year from bowline because the bowlines 
> were always getting hung up on my baby stay and i'd'have to run forward.  
> Didn't happen once this season!
> 
> Mike
> Atacama 33mkii
> 
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Larry via CnC-List 
> Sender: "CnC-List" 
> Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 16:27:20 
> To: 
> Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Larry
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List speed instrument frustration

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

My 30 year old Signet Marine depth and speed instruments have never failed.  
They still sell them and they're rock solid.  www.signetmarine.com/.  I suspect 
you may have water in your cables that is eventually penetrating the impeller.  
 As to modern the Airmar looks good and is nmea 2000.  Jerry J

 


Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor NMEA 2000

Product ID: AM1110-30 MFG ID: ST850-N2
Airmar ST850 Smart Sensor feature embedded micro-electronics. Speed and 
temperature signals are processed inside the sensor and can be displayed on any 
radar,chart plotter, or device that accepts NMEA 2000 data.
Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours

MSRP/MAP Price $242.73

Our Price 
$208.95

Select ST850 Option:
Plastic Nylon $208.95
Bronze $273.95
Stainless Steel $383.95

Qty: 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 30, 2016, at 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> For ages I have had a Standard-Horizon SL1 speed log. The instrument 
> eventually died and was replaced. The impellor was always getting gunked up 
> and then died for good. The instrument died again. I got one instrument and 
> two impellors from Fleabay. One impellor died quickly and the other one died 
> just now L They were all new in box too.
> I am about ready to just look at the GPS and give up on this. Is there a 
> modern speed sensor that actually lasts? I remember replacing a ton of them 
> back in the day as an Autohelm dealer.
> Joe
> Coquina
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Re: Stus-List List discussions on list

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Open main menu

EditWatch this page
Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act
Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act of 1996 (a common name for Title 
V of the Telecommunications Act of 1996) is a landmark piece of Internet 
legislation in the United States, codified at 47 U.S.C. § 230. Section 
230(c)(1) provides immunity from liability for providers and users of an 
"interactive computer service" who publish information provided by others:

No provider or user of an interactive computer service shall be treated as the 
publisher or speaker of any information provided by another information content 
provider.

In analyzing the availability of the immunity offered by this provision, courts 
generally apply a three-prong test. A defendant must satisfy each of the three 
prongs to gain the benefit of the immunity:

The defendant must be a "provider or user" of an "interactive computer service."
The cause of action asserted by the plaintiff must treat the defendant as the 
"publisher or speaker" of the harmful information at issue.
The information must be "provided by another information content provider," 
i.e., the defendant must not be the "information content provider" of the 
harmful information at issue.


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Re: Stus-List Bridge Yacht Experience

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

With all this discussion of boats for sale I would like to let the list know 
that my 27-V 1986 is for sale on Long Island NY.  Very nice boat.  You can see 
listing at http://m.sailboatlistings.com/view/61767
I am looking to move up to a larger boat 35+ to 41 feet so if anyone has one 
for sale let me know.  Jerry J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 23, 2016, at 10:37 AM, Phygital via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> By the way... I dealt with bridge yachts in the last few weeks on my last 
> search. 
> 
> Survey Failed (according to what I'm looking for), but I had a decent 
> experience. There's always the feeling of "did they know more"... some 
> experienced buyers see a problem (especially if structural), as a big 
> negotiation point. Brokers don't know off hand what the buyer is willing to 
> accept. It's an it of a crap shoot for them as well.
> 
> Owner got a quote from boatyard and asked the broker to see if we would still 
> be interested if repairs were done or deduct the amount from agreed price if 
> I chose to do it myself or another boat yard.
> 
> We declined, in part thinking resale, but mostly it was the thought of "is it 
> safe" that would always be in the admirals mind (you know who I mean)...
> 
> I slept well that night :).
> 
> You gotta feel good about your boat. A good friend and lister (Christian), 
> told me... when you buy the boat "It's Yours"... whatever you discover 
> afterwards "it's yours". Hard, but really great advice.
> 
> Nothing negative to say about BY. I'm still in touch and they now know I'm a 
> serious buyer and exactly what I want and questions I will ask. They are 
> prepared.
> 
> The hunt is still on.
> 
> 
> /J
> 
>> On Nov 23, 2016, at 10:05 AM, Della Barba, Joe  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> If you want to know how many times I have run aground, you would be in for a 
>> long conversation LOL. I think I am at 2 or so in the last week – marina 
>> needs to dredge again.
>> Seriously though, VERY good advice. I have had brokers email me a survey 
>> that was pretty harsh. That was putting honesty over $$ and good on them. 
>> Also note for C, we have a rather unique resource. I make no claim to be 
>> a surveyor, but I could find C 35 MK I issues in 10 minutes 95% of 
>> surveyors would never catch. A long term owner of your proposed purchase 
>> could do a once-over and save a lot of time and money.
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Phygital 
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2016 09:54
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Phygital 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bridge Yacht Experience
>>  
>> Have been looking for a boat for just over a year now. Have traveled far and 
>> wide and dealt with numerous brokers.
>>  
>> I've learned the following during my journey;
>>  
>> - if the broker is represents both seller and buyer, either get another 
>> broker to represent you or establish in writing that the broker agrees to 
>> represent you as much as the seller. In some provinces or states this is 
>> mandated.
>>  
>> - some brokers seemingly have little historical knowledge of the vessel. 
>> I've learned the burden is up to me to ask as many questions as possible 
>> including grounding, propeller shaft, etc. I even ask for receipts for work 
>> done as verification it was professionally done. Of course extent matters on 
>> the size of the job.
>>  
>> - some brokers only answer the questions you ask, and offer nothing more, 
>> and it can be like pulling teeth. They won't readily  forward the survey 
>> unless you ask for it.
>>  
>> - some brokers are really great in that they get to know the boat, will 
>> sound the hull, take readings, etc. they do this as part of establishing the 
>> price. Immediately forward a survey if they have it.
>>  
>> - some brokers allow for communication with the owners. This is rare. I get 
>> concerned, but then I really start to collect information and ask a million 
>> questions on every system on the boat. A decent boat owner keeps bills.
>>  
>> - it comes down to liability, and burden of proof. Most don't get a sea 
>> trial, or have the engine surveyed. If it's on the hard ask to have a 
>> portion of the money held back for a sea trial and engine survey, or other 
>> areas you could not survey at the time (e.g. Mast alof) and only after 
>> transport.
>>  
>> - I ask when the pictures were taken, and ask for them sent to me in google 
>> drive so that I can first hand verify the date and time using the file meta 
>> data. I like to visit boats on rainy days.
>> 
>> - one surveyor told me... when a survey fails you sleep at night and the 
>> seller is awake. When a survey fails, or a discovery is made during a visit, 
>> the broker is obligated to inform the next potential purchaser of any 
>> defects found during the last survey. So it's important to ask and document 
>> and send and receive 

Re: Stus-List Strut

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

BRASS BRONZE PROP SHAFT BRACE PROPELLER MOUNT BOAT SHIP SAILBOAT SAIL   

$49.99  

Buy It Now  


12 watching



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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Its a Michigan Wheel Federal Line propeller.   See below.  Jerry


The Federal propeller line concentrates on the application specific custom 
design and manufacturing efforts. Federal features propellers ranging 12” to 
96” in diameters. Michigan Wheel is a propeller supplier to custom yacht 
manufacturers, production boat builders, and commercial shipyards around the 
world. For those that seek to optimize performance and efficiency, Michigan 
Wheel is challenged with expanding propeller design and analysis capabilities. 
Optimized propeller fit does result in increased speeds, improved cruising 
range and exceptional passenger comfort levels.


High end motor yachts, high speed sportfish boats, and military craft are 
challenging applications, and require sophisticated propulsion to optimize 
performance to design intent. 

The Federal propeller line is often the solution to maximize performance. 
Michigan Wheel engineers work directly with builder engineers and consulting 
companies, applying ever evolving, sophisticated propeller design codes to 
applications. 


 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 


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Re: Stus-List Battery Charges and an ACR

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

New article on marine battery chargers. 
http://www.sailmagazine.com/gear/electronics-and-navigation/charging-it-not-all-battery-chargers-are-created-equal/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter_medium=email_content=textlink_campaign=enewsletter


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List cracked boom

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "SAIL Magazine" 
> Date: November 6, 2016 at 11:31:50 AM EST
> To: 
> Subject: DIY: Installing a New Boom
> Reply-To: "Marine Group" 
> 
> 
> 
> View online
> 
> 
> November 06, 2016
> 
> 
> CONNECT WITH US
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> DIY: Installing a New Boom
> Installing a new boom on a decades-old sloop requires a fair bit of work, but 
> the results in terms of performance and ease-of-use make it more than worth 
> the effort. Read more...
>  
> 
>  
> You are currently subscribed as: jrtau...@aol.com.
> 
> Update your preferences for this list
> 
> Unsubscribe from this list.
> 
> MAGAZINES | PRIVACY POLICY | CONTACT US
> 
> © 2016 Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc.,
> an Active Interest Media company
> 10 Bokum Rd.
> Essex, CT 06426-1185
> 
> Please add s...@e.aimmedia.com to your email address book or safe list to 
> ensure the delivery of this newsletter and future emails to your inbox.
> 
> If you are having trouble reading this email, please go here.
> 
> Unsubscribe from all Active Interest Media - Marine Group emails.
> 
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Re: Stus-List VMG at the helm.

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Why no VMG?
Velocitek created the world's first GPS-based VMG tool back in 2006. VMG was 
also a prominent feature on the Velocitek SC-1, the ProStart’s direct 
predecessor. When several other companies around the world tried to copy the 
SC-1’s success they also included a VMG feature on their products. Velocitek’s 
tag line even used to be “Velocity. Made Good.”

The reason why we decided to drop VMG as a feature on the ProStart is that we 
couldn't find any professional sailors who used this feature while racing. The 
main reason the pros don't like to look at VMG when they are racing is that the 
boat's momentum makes it difficult to use these measurements to find an optimal 
heading.

As an example, imagine this: 

You are on a broad reach and then you decide to try pointing lower. Initially 
your speed will not change very much because of your boat's momentum. The 
indicated VMG will jump up (same speed as before, better angle). You are happy; 
the instrument seems to be telling you that soaking low was a good idea.

As you hold your course steady at this new angle, your speed will eventually 
drop and, as you are falling off a plane, the instrument will finally come 
around to telling you the truth: this new, deeper angle was, in fact, a very 
bad idea. 

The trouble is that by now you are losing boats like crazy and you're going to 
have to head way up to get planing again; the damage is done.
The above notwithstanding, these measurements can be useful for training, 
especially when you don't have other boats to sail against. A GPS VMG 
instrument can help you figure out what the optimal settings and angles are for 
your boat in different conditions. It's just that these things need to be 
figured out before you are actually racing.

Our goal with the ProStart was to make an extremely easy to use instrument that 
only incorporated the features that pro sailors use when they are racing. There 
is definitely a good justification for selling a VMG product as a training tool 
but the feature did not fit with our brief for the ProStart.

One product that is still on the market and does VMG calculation is the Rockbox 
by Rock City Marine. You can check out their website here: 
http://www.rockcitymarine.com


Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 31, 2016, at 8:02 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> good luck with that...you won't be fast that way; sorry
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Oct 31, 2016 at 4:00 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>> Hey all;
>> 
>> Although I have VMG (or at least its approximate equivalent) available from
>> my Garmin 746 Chart plotter and can display it on one of my 4 Garmin
>> displays above the companionway, I find it difficult to see it with crew in
>> the cockpit and I don't like putting my head into the boat looking down at
>> the chart-plotter mounted above the binnacle while I am trying my best to go
>> hard on the wind.
>> 
>> OK-OK--I know this hardly qualifies as a serious problem!!
>> 
>> Nonetheless, I am looking for the simplest solution that allows me to see
>> the VMG either on my iphone (hard to read with sunglasses on), or a 'smart
>> watch' which may have the same problem. I realize I could use another
>> battery powered GPS but I would need to mount it and operate it while trying
>> to get my head in to the race at the same time.
>> 
>> Ideally glasses with a heads-up display of it would have it in front of me
>> no matter what else was going on.
>> 
>> Any listers have solutions or ideas? My simpleminded thought is to put the
>> RC or starting line in as a MOB mark and then use either the largest
>> negative VMG upwind from it to guide me at the helm and the largest positive
>> VMG downwind from it find the best AWA. This would likely give me the best
>> course to steer no matter how true the course is to windward.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> C 36 XL/kcb 1995
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> cenel...@aol.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List C a C??

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

My point was simply that the 27-5 and 34/37 R models have the highest SA/D of 
the original C  The Fairport Marine and US Watercraft C have higher 
SA/D.  Not saying they are not C  They are very nice boats and in the C 
tradition.  Jerry

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 31, 2016, at 2:59 PM, Harry Hallgring via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I can't wait until this embarrassing divisive presidential election season is 
> over.  it seems to be affecting all of us:)
> 
> Harry
> MIRAGE
> 1985 Northeast 39
> C marque
> Rob  Ball design
> Bruckmann Yachts
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List SA/D Ratio

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Not the original C  Those are epoxy hull with carbon mast built by Fairport 
Yachts.Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 31, 2016, at 8:15 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> What about the C 115?  24.19
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 28, 2016 7:20 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Cc: Ken Heaton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List SA/D Ratio
>  
> From SailboatData:
>  
> C 34/37R - Sail Area/Disp.1 : 21.16
> C 34/37 XL - Sail Area/Disp.1 : 20.34
> C 27 Mk.V - Sail Area/Disp.1: 20.37
>  
> So we're not very far behind you.  Keep looking over your shoulder...
>  
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>  
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
>  
>  
>  
> On 28 October 2016 at 18:00, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Was just looking at sail area to displacement ratio for C's on 
> sailboatdata.com and was surprised to see that my little 27 mark v and the 
> 34/37R have the highest SA/D of any C's built by the original company other 
> than the SR models.  Jerry J C 27 MKV. 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ___
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
>  
> ___
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List SA/D Ratio

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Was just looking at sail area to displacement ratio for C's on 
sailboatdata.com and was surprised to see that my little 27 mark v and the 
34/37R have the highest SA/D of any C's built by the original company other 
than the SR models.  Jerry J C 27 MKV. 


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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Funny - prop walk seems to be as little understood as sail drive.   I have read 
three different explanations - 1) the pressure on the water on the lower blade 
is higher (the deeper you go the higher the water pressure); 2) the angle of 
the prop shaft and 3) the upward and downward flow of the thrust.   Of all the 
last seems the most probable.  It is explained as follows:


Transverse thrust is of much greater significance when using an astern 
movement.  The helical discharge from a right handed propeller working astern 
splits and passes forward towards either side of the hull.  In doing so it 
behaves quite differently.  On the port quarter it is inclined down and away 
from the hull whilst on the starboard quarter it is directed up and on to the 
hull.  This flow of water striking the starboard quarter can be a substantial 
force capable of swinging the stern to port, giving the classic kick of the bow 
to starboard.

Read more at 
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?341281-Prop-walk-Pysical-reason-why-does-this-happen/page5=9d5e1334410d8aca0215750337644810#proEkO42zUH4PEgp.99


 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Chuck S via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S ; Jeremy Ralph 
Sent: Wed, Oct 26, 2016 4:18 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open


FWIW, I heard it explained that propwalk originates because the shaft is at an 
angle to horizontal.  The more angle the more prop walk.  Also, more surface 
area of the prop causes more prop walk.  Sail drives have the least prop walk 
because their shaft is horizontal, not at an angle.  Power boats with outboards 
have very little propwalk.  Powerboats with inboards and angled shafts have the 
most prop walk as their props are huge, too.

Propwalk is not a problem but a sideways thrust that if used wisely, can be 
very helpful at times.

When docking stern first, I get the boat moving where I want it and shift into 
neutral.  I leave the throttle at idle and shift into reverse just long enough 
to keep her moving.  To slow or to stop, I place the shifter into foreward only 
long enough to stop.  Impulse power vs warp power. 

Chuck Scheaffer
Resolute 1990 C 34R


On October 26, 2016 at 1:20 AM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I had issues with my 2 blade Martec though not as bad as you describe.  I would 
open with a clunk, sometimes stick when opening, and have some bad vibrations. 
A surveyor informed me it should be be rebuilt, which is in the works.  I 
replaced it with a 3 blade Campbell Sailer prop, which I'm happy with, although 
reversing with the Martec had way less prop walk.
 
Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
that you all are mentioning.
I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.
So far I've tried:
   - to come to a complete stop and try again
   - Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
   - short kick to full throttle.

The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to
our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
the clunk.
Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
the motor after a sail. It's really frustratin

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Re: Stus-List Slip Choice, backing in

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=cyVRx6c_TnE=/watch?v%3DPoGMAEjiHmU%26feature%3Dem-subs_digest-vrecs=GeuiBLhXxAu6-WjfVBK83IUavUYfcFAriejNUGCfbfwhxGTXzzXRAwV9Jper8qVLBkuLlZTpxiWT0bXXqiJLITkQpVuorZ9LYkTFfJQo07l2EUcLlhiYL7Ix-CGxxsMtwb2aS78wrf4cCFwsORsanqC0g3KRx9rIGLYlAY9xEE2Dc1Q%3D
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 23, 2016, at 10:38 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Andrew:
> 
> My prop turns clockwise, therefore, when in reverse, the stern of the boat is 
> initially pulled to 'port' until there is sufficient water flow over the 
> rudder to gain steerage.
> 
> Now add to that, my prop shaft is not centered, it is angled to 'port' a few 
> degrees which accentuates the prop walk or pull of the stern to port.
> 
> This short video will highlight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TMB4-EPMAI
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2016-10-22 12:17 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
>> I'm a bit puzzled by the talk about prop walk and offset shafts.
>>  I've found that prop walk is pronounced when the shaft is on centerline, 
>> but when the shaft is offset, it is offset to minimize prop walk. i.e. If 
>> the prop pulls to port, then the shaft is offset to starboard cancelling the 
>> effects of the prop walk in reverse. At least, that's how it should be done. 
>> Obviously, others here are experiencing things differently, which I find 
>> surprising.
>> 
>> Andy
>> C 40
>> Peregrine
>> 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>> 
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

If it's rf noise generated by the alternator it may be coming in through your 
GPS antenna as well as data or power lines.  If it is rf noise you should be 
able to hear it with a small AM radio held nearby (tune to around 1400 KHz).   
I still think your voltage regulator is suspect. When the battery reaches its 
maximum charge of approximately 14.2 volts, the regulator will then limit the 
alternator's output. The battery acts as a buffer so that may be what's causing 
the problem to sometimes not show with the engine on..   If the engine has been 
off for a while the battery voltage may fall in the 12's and it may take a 
while for it to overcharge into the 14's where your chart plotter may start to 
act erratically again.   When you turn off the engine it may take a few minutes 
for the voltage to drop back into a safe level.   You said you are measuring in 
the 14 volt range with the engine on.  If it is above 14.2 that would be 
suspect. Jerry  J7J
 

 

-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2016 11:08 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem



You could try something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEWMAR-PC-25-Noise-Filter-Power-Conditioner-25-amps-/231859240381?hash=item35fbe33dbd:g:Zn0AAOSwPc9W0ftz=mtr
 
Oscilloscope (scope)https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope FYI
If you know any ham radio operators, they probably know where to find one to 
borrow.
 
Your plotter also could just be nuts ;)
Joe
Coquina
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 09:56
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem

 
Hi Joe and thanks for your input.  Some answers below.

 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT






On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Some things to try:
1.   Run the plotter off its own battery. Little 6 ah AGM batteries are 
cheap enough if you don’t have a spare battery sitting around.
Given the intermittent nature of the problem, this would be challenging to do 
long enough to be definitive.  I am also not sure it will identify the source 
of the problem since it appears to be the power (see below).


2.   Put a scope on the DC bus to see what, if any, AC/noise is on the 
line. Include an engine start with this.
I don’t have a scope and have not used one.  What kind of device would you do 
this with?


3.   Disconnect the NMEA interconnection and see what happens.
As I said, when this happened last week, the NMEA input was disconnected from 
the chart plotter, so this seems to be coming from the power connection.  What 
is frustrating is that yesterday, I started the engine twice, once before and 
once after the race, and the chart plotter behaved perfectly and never beeped 
once.  Nothing was obviously different??

 

 

 


4.   Check the NMEA connection for configuration. Does the plotter send and 
receive data or just send? No need to have the NMEA input line connected if 
there is no data headed that way. 
5.   Put a laptop on the NMEA connection or run the diagnostic window on 
the plotter, if it has one, and read the raw NMEA stream to see if it is 
getting some odd data or any data at all if it should not be.
6.   Put ferrites on all incoming wiring.
7.   Check for ground loops and NMEA isolation*
*
This one is a bit tricky. First off, make sure the power supply and ground 
connections are at exactly the same place as your other electronics. Ground 
loops are bit complicated to explain and hard to find, but the short version is 
this step will eliminate some of them. Second is check with the manufacturer to 
see if your plotter NMEA connections are true marine standard opto-isolated. It 
is very possible to use direct wiring to NMEA data and not isolate it, my 
laptop/plotter does just that, but optical isolation prevents various stray 
voltage and ground issues from messing up the data.  Equipment is fairly 
resilient now, but back in the day an engine start could generate noise that 
would totally screw up electronics. Even now I will start an airplane with all 
radios and nav equipment off and then turn it on. I once was delivering an 
airplane that had a screwy alternator I had to switch off to use the radios and 
nav gear and then switch back on when the battery got low.
BTW – my boat is wired so the engine start battery is usually separate at 
engine start and has no effect at all on the electronics. They don’t combine 
until charging voltage is present for a few minutes. Is yours like that?
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
 

 


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