Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 I have a jib sock and it is a pain to both put on and take down but it has 
kept the jib in pretty good condition.
JohnC 33 MK II

On Monday, June 20, 2022, 09:56:27 p.m. EDT, Bob Mann via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
   Do away with the sacrificial altogether!  I bought a jib sock for my 35 in 
December 2017 for $580 from a small, local sailmaker.  A few tears in it but 
still going strong! 
   
   Bob Mann   Detroit  
  On 06/20/2022 9:45 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
wrote:   
   
 I had a “stick on” sacrificial cover attached to my 150 years ago.  I was 
rounding Bloody Point on the Chesapeake in fairly strong winds when the cover 
got attached to the shrouds instead of the sail.  Not a lot of fun as we could 
only adjust our heading so much, we’re running out of “runway”, and the sail 
was basically glued to the shroud.   I will NEVER use a glue on item like that 
unless it is also sewn on as well.  
   Neil Andersen, W3NEA    Rock Hall, MD 21661   484-354-8800  From: Joel 
Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2022 8:28:31 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover  
 U V cover replacement is by the foot. What else did they recommend?  New 
webbing? Restitching?   
   On Mon, Jun 20, 2022 at 7:34 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote: 
  
  Maybe it's time for a SailRite machine!  On the other hand, isn't there some 
kind of a white sticky material you can buy and just put it on yourself? It 
sticks like the numbers or graphics. I'm pretty sure I had that on one of my 
leeches. 
 
  Bill Coleman   Entrada Erie PA 
   On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 19:08 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote: 
  
   
 
 
The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to Bacons to get 
repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured wrong, the estimate 
came back at $1350! Yikes!
 
Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like a pretty good 
chunk of an entire sail!
 
 
 
 
 
Joe Della Barba
 
Coquina C 35 MK I
 
Kent Island MD USA
 
 
 
 
   
  
  -- 
Joel 
 
 
   

Stus-List Fresh water pressure pump

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I need to replace the fresh water pump between the holding tank and the faucets 
on my C 33 MK II
I think I need a 2' to 2.5' lift.
Is there any benefit to trying to place the pump closer to the holding tank 
level?
There are a lot of pumps out there from about $30 to $150.
What pumps are people buying these days?
John on Enterprise
Komoka Ont




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Re: Stus-List Tether warning and snap shackle split rings

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 Strange to see your comment on a shackle.
I had a new shackle on a new spin sheet blow this week. Luckily all the parts 
were trapped by the famous C toe rail. Thanks for the advice on searching out 
heavier rings which I likely should have for a sheet. I have taped the ring so 
there is no end to get caught on something.
John on Enterprise 33 MKIISarnia Ontario
On Sunday, July 8, 2018, 9:57:24 a.m. EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I was checking the PFD's, harnesses and tethers before a race couple weeks 
ago.  When I pulled the release on one of the tether's "human" end snap 
shackle, it disintegrated.  The snap shackle could not been released if needed. 
 Very dangerous situation.  Please check your safety gear often!!
The tether was a West Marine brand.  (Yeah, I know how many times I've posted 
to the list not to buy anything with the West Marine brand.)
Anyway, split rings for snap shackles are hard to find.  They must be stronger 
than the ones you use to secure cotter pins in order to withstand the force of 
pulling without straightening out.
I could have ordered a Ronstan plunger pin kit which includes a single heavy 
duty split ring for about $20.  I decided to look at other options.
I ordered some from mcmaster.com.  Their Part #90905A652 9/16" 316 stainless 
split ring seems to work OK.  While obviously not as sturdy as the Ronstan, it 
fit and withstood a significant pull without deforming.  Unless you have a 
rather excitable gorilla on your crew, I suspect it should work just fine.  A 
pack of 10 is about $10-15 shipped.
If anyone finds the standard snap shackle split rings online or a better 
alternative, please post.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
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Re: Stus-List New sails for C 34

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I am a big fan of Boston Doyle in Point Edward Ontario.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, 5 Jul 2018 at 12:30 PM, jay hackney via 
CnC-List wrote:   I’m considering getting new mainsail 
and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980 C 34. Current main & genoa are bagged 
out & not in top shape. 
I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would 
partial battens on the main I believe.
A couple of questions for the community:
1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?

Many thanks
Jay Hackney
Toronto
C 34: Windblown___

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Re: Stus-List 1987 33 MKII

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 I have a 33 MK II. Love the boat. Jealous of the stove.
Well priced
John on EnterpriseSarnia Ontario

On Thursday, June 14, 2018, 3:17:59 p.m. EDT, cnormand83 via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
After 19 years, the time has come to part with my boat.  She deserves an owner 
who will find the time to play with her more than I can.  Listing below.  
Realistically priced to move. Picture on hard is dated. Newer pics coming   
Broker info in listing. 
Cheers
Charlie 


 

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/C%26C-33-MK-II-1600205/Jamestown/RI/United-States

 



 
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Re: Stus-List Replace mast sheaves

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 Yes
Take a picture with the top plate off
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK II

On Friday, March 9, 2018, 7:52:02 a.m. EST, steve dewar via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 With my mast out for the winter, I am thinking of replaces the sheaves at the 
masthead. Being a new owner of my 35 mkiii and not wanting to screw up the 
present halyard operation, is it as easy as unscrewing the Phillip screw, 
remove metal tab,  pull out metal spindle and remove and replace the sheave?
Enquiring mind wants to know!
Thanks Steve

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List C 33-2 St. Joseph, MI

[John McKay via CnC-List]

The 33 MK II is a great boat. I bought one 3 years ago.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, 4 Mar 2018 at 2:23 PM, Richard Gotthardt via 
CnC-List wrote:   I'm thinking of taking the 3 hour trip 
to look at this boat:
https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/boa/d/33-and-sailboat-cruiser-racer/6517003531.html

I haven't been able to get much more information than what's available in this 
Craigslist ad, broker doesn't know much either. Is anyone familiar with it? 
Thanks___

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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail water drain

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 It should be cotton. 
I found synthetics are not as good wicking
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK II

On Sunday, February 11, 2018, 12:16:43 p.m. EST, Christian Planton via 
CnC-List  wrote:  
 
 

Thank you for all those who posted. I never even thought of using a wick. 
Sometimes when you are out on your boat you tend to over think a problem.
I do have hardware that is leaking. In the spring/summer I am going to rebed 
them. Fun times!
Thanks again,
ChristianPeer Gyth1980 C 34 Saugatuck, CT



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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Halyard Parking Bracket

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 I like this. A couple of times this past summer, the pit man was not fast 
enough getting the halyard secure and the chute dropped a few feet. Much more 
difficult to pull the chute up when it is full.
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK IIKomoka Ontario

On Wednesday, January 10, 2018, 8:53:45 PM EST, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Here's pics of Touche' spinnaker halyard parking bracket.
Halyard parked:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1l4zjGelVZFb6ovcoiTm1w8widYvuqKYz
Halyard free to drop chute:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12uMQiom3tJARYnkWPPhSPihdjNMxEYAG
I think you can see how it works.  Mast person hoists chute with an outboard 
pulling motion.  Halyard "parks" in the cam cleat.  Once the chute is up, the 
mast person can move to other tasks.  The halyard remains "parked".  Later, the 
pit person can then take the slack out of the halyard and give it a pull.  The 
halyard pops out of the cam cleat into the "free" position.  It is then ready 
to drop the chute.  This assumes the boat has a cabin top rope clutch for the 
halyard.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___

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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 The specification sheet from the C site says a 1" bolt, 1 1/2" bolt is 350 
foot pounds
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK II
On Tuesday, January 2, 2018, 6:30:46 PM EST, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 #yiv1337371246 #yiv1337371246 -- _filtered #yiv1337371246 
{font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1337371246 
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{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv1337371246 div.yiv1337371246WordSection1 
{}#yiv1337371246 
Last season, I ended up having my boatyard doing this.  I have no idea of the 
last time this was done but it was before 2010.  The boatyard used Ken Heaton’s 
torque values.  In order to loosen some of the nuts, an impact tool was 
required. - Ron  

  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 2, 2018 3:18 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

  

Ok Guys,

Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access ALL of 
the keel bolts.  I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and checked 
the archives for torque specs.  I intend to buy a toque multiplier and the 
appropriate sized sockets.  I think I can do it for less than the yard is going 
to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools.  I'll also be able to tell 
myself that it was done correctly.

  

That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:

-  be on the hard

- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel

- reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels.

  

I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken 
Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses.

  

Keel bolts (fwd to aft):

         Nut                       stud               torque

1 - 1 1/2 (38mm)    1 (25mm)          350

2 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

3 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

4 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm)   450

6 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

7 - 1 1/2 (38mm)    1 (25mm)          350

8 - 3/4 (19.5mm)    1/2 (13mm)      80

  

  

Anything I'm missing?

  

  

Thanks,

  

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 On my 33 MK II, there was an exit for the head shower sump about a foot 
forward of the bulkhead. I put the outflow for a new electric bilge about 6" 
forward of that.
John on EnterpriseC MK IIKomoka Ontario
On Saturday, December 30, 2017, 10:36:18 AM EST, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 #yiv1622382325 #yiv1622382325 -- _filtered #yiv1622382325 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 
4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1622382325 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 
4 3 2 4;}#yiv1622382325 #yiv1622382325 p.yiv1622382325MsoNormal, #yiv1622382325 
li.yiv1622382325MsoNormal, #yiv1622382325 div.yiv1622382325MsoNormal 
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{margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv1622382325 div.yiv1622382325WordSection1 
{}#yiv1622382325 
My whale bilge pump exits about two feet forward of the transom on the port 
side, just under the toe rail. I ran my electric version to the same place, 
just underneath the manual one.

Gary

#593

  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven A. 
Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2017 12:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Drain Location

  

Question for the C 30 MK1 owners.  Where does your bilge pump drain?  I 
picked up mu project boat last winter and they had the hose from the bilge pump 
connected to the vent fitting for the head holding tank.  I am putting the head 
back together and will need that vent, but I can’t figure out where the bilge 
pump would connected to a thruhull.

  

Thanks,

Steve

  

SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

  
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Re: Stus-List Support

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I thought I had kept the email with the email address to send money by email 
but guess I deleted it.
Did anyone keep it
John on EnterpriseC 33 MKII
 

On Thursday, October 26, 2017 7:46 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I've mailed him a check in past years. Send him an email off list:  
s...@cncphotoalbum.com and ask for his address.  I have an address for him in 
London, Ontario, but I don't know whether it's still current.

Alan Bergen

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 6:15 AM, Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Fellow Listers, Is there an alternative to financially contribute to the list 
without using PayPal.  They have been breached more than once and I won’t take 
the risk with that service. Neil1982 C 32 FoxFireRock Hall, MD
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in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will be our fund raising 
month.  Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list 
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
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Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Stove

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I use one of those ButaneThey are light and compactIt has been on the cabin 
sole many times and keeps working. I have now bolted it down.
The one draw back I find is that it is very hot. I had it on low one time 
heating pork and beans and I was on the bow talking to a fellow boater. Went 
back into the cabin and they were severally baked beans. I just threw the pot 
out. Great for the price, don't leave unattended.
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK IIKomoka Ontario
 

On Thursday, October 26, 2017 3:50 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 How about this 
one...http://www.coleman.com/butane-stove/220951.html?cgid=coleman-stovesandgrills#pmax=25=0=1

Bill DakinS/V Tapestry25MKII
On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 2:21 PM, Kyle Davis via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello everyone...new owner of a 1977 C 26. I have owned a Bayliner sailboat 
and still have a Catalina 25. Really excited about this C, but I’m working on 
where to install a stove. I’m located in Washington State and coffee is a must. 
I mostly prepare food on a grill in the cockpit. So I could use a single 
burner. Just looking for advice and ideas. 
The boat has never had a name and I’m considering using my first grandson’s 
name, Killian. 
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Re: Stus-List Toilet lubrecation

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I used corn oil last fall.
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK II 

On Thursday, September 28, 2017 7:35 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I like your system.  Makes sense to me!RickPaikea 37+Tacoma, WA

On Sep 28, 2017, at 3:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
I've tried tried "head lube", TefGel, wheel grease, couple other things.  
Nothing works as well as Superlube.

So, primarily, I use Superlube.  Pop the top off the Jabsco pump assembly, pull 
out the plunger, wipe some on the plunger o-ring and the shaft and re-install.  
In between SuperLube applications, I use olive oil.  I keep a small bottle of 
olive oil on the boat for cooking.  Each spring, I replace the bottle with a 
new one.  What's left in the old bottle becomes interim head lube.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 5:24 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

What are listers using to keep their toilets pumping freely?   The manufacturer 
sells something, but suspect there is a generic cheaper alternative.  I've used 
vegetable oil in the past, but that seems gum up the pump.  A friend uses motor 
oil but I worry about it not being compatible with the rubber parts.
Fred HazzardS/V FuryC 44Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Surveyor – Sarnia Ontario area

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Marty Cole in Point EdwardGil Fleming in SarniaCaptain Yachting Service, Sarnia 
or Point EdwardUsed Gil for my first C Marty for an insurance 
appraisalWhat's the boat name this time?
John on Enterprise (docked in Sarnia)
 

On Friday, September 22, 2017 3:33 PM, John via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 You can try Peter McGuire. He goes thru EVERYTHING, and knows C's
Contact:
Peter H McGuire SAMS AMS Fastnet Yacht Surveys Limited 99 Farningham 
CrescentToronto, M9B 3B8Ontario(416) 239 5782 (o) / (416) 809 2186 
(m)http://www.marinesurveyor.com/fastnet

/J
On Sep 1, 2017, at 3:56 PM, Sean Richardson  wrote:


I’m taking a run at another boat and may be in need of areputable surveyor in 
the Sarnia Ontario area. Any listers around there thatknow of a good surveyor I 
can contact? I haven’t seen the boat yet as it’s a good 7-8 hour drivefrom me 
and paying a surveyor for a proper report and saving me a trip would bewell 
worth it I think. Also looking for transport services within Ontario if 
anyonewould like to share their experiences and recommendations. SeanLYNXC 27 
MKIII
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Re: Stus-List Transmission position while sailing - Yanmar

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I put the transmission in reverse. Have a folding prop. If not in reverse you 
can hear the prop and there is a vibration.
John on EnterpriseKomoka Ont.
 

On Monday, September 18, 2017 9:31 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I stand corrected.  Well done Bruce.  I'm still going to be putting mine in 
reverse.  DAMN THE TORPEDOS! 
Josh


On Mon, Sep 18, 2017, 9:18 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Josh,
I was really curious when I read about the proper position of the shifter, and 
found multiple references of the following advisory purportedly from Yanmar as 
follows"
And for Yanmar/Kanzaki:

Advisory Number: MSA08-003:

DATE February 8, 2008 Dealers and OEMs
TO: All Marine Distributors
SUBJECT: Gear in Neutral While Sailing All MODELS:

All Sailboat Engines

We continue to get questions regarding the correct gear position while sailing 
with the engine OFF. This advisory is issued as a reminder; Yanmar requires 
that if sailing with the engine OFF (not running) the transmission shifter must 
be in the neutral position or internal damage to the gear or sail-drive will 
result. This damage will not be covered by Yanmar’s Limited Warranty. Please 
instruct customers and dealers who deliver the sailboat to the customer, of the 
correct (Neutral) position for the marine gear while sailing.

If the customer desires that the propeller shaft not spin while sailing, either 
a folding propeller, shaft break, or other suitable device may be used. 
However, Yanmar accepts no responsibility for the selection, installation, or 
operation of such devices. Please also refer to Marine service advisory 
“MSA07-001_Yanmar Sail Drive Propeller Selection” for additional information.

If you have any questions regarding this advisory please contact a Customer 
Support representative."


The reason for failure mode, as was describe to me, is that in reverse the 
clutch cones can chatter, quiver or vibrate against one another causing wear 
which eventually leads to slippage and a gear box re-build. Many already know 
how difficult a Kanzaki can be to get out of reverse after sailing with it 
locked.

Here's a quote from the SBO forums:
Quote:
Originally Posted by glengreyUnfortunately I can attest to the proper Yanmar 
gear position. In the summer of 2008 my transmission (Kansaki on a 3GM30F 
engine) started slipping. Engine had 440 hours. always placed gear in reverse 
when sailing. After considerable discussion with Yamnar they advised they would 
not consider warranty (was passed the hours for that anyway). Upshot is new 
transmission. They advised that the cone clutch does "quiver" (my term) even 
though locked into reverse, producing wear and eventually slippage.
I don't like believing everything I read on the internet, but I kept coming 
across this advisory.
Hope this helps, 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 To: C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley 
 Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 9:12 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission position while sailing
  
Folding and feathering props can stay open if you don't stop the shaft by 
putting it in reverse.  With a fixed prop you can reduce drag by "trailing the 
shaft" and leaving it in neutral.  The problem is that some transmissions don't 
get properly lubricated in this condition (IIRC: paragon?)  Reverse should 
always be fine no matter what engine/transmission.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Sep 18, 2017 7:16 PM, "schiller via CnC-List"  wrote:

  OK, gang.  I know this has been discussed before but help me out.  With the 
Universal M-25XPB in Corsair, the manuals said to shift he transmission into 
reverse after shut down while sailing.  Withe the new Yanmar in Grace (C 35, 
Mark III), what is the prevailing wisdom as to transmission selection after 
shutdown while sailing.  I instinctively put the transmission in reverse but 
can not find any Yanmar documentation as to what they recommend.
 
 Neil Schiller
 1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
 "Grace"
 White Lake, Michigan
 Scheduled for haulout 6 October
  
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Re: Stus-List C 40

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Victoria BC
I am arriving in Victoria tomorrow afternoon. 
Are there a lot of C owners in the downtown harbour that I can wander through?
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK IIKomoka Ontario
 

On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 2:29 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 

  https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/and-40/6290084707.html    FYI 
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Re: Stus-List Selling 26' C Washington State

[John McKay via CnC-List]

My first boat was a 26. We loved her but have move up a few feet.
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK IIKomoka Ont
 

On Tuesday, September 5, 2017 5:20 PM, Dan Utinske via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Unfortunately I suffered a heart attack @ 2.5 years ago and haven’t had the 
time to dedicate to my C and I need to part ways with it.  I’m willing to 
part with her and not looking for much in return.  She has a full load of sails 
in very good condition.  She’s not been sailed since the heart attack or had 
much maintenance.  I’ve had the hull cleaned (diver) a few times and her 
topside washed but having difficult finding someone to wash again and she needs 
her hull cleaned again.  She’s a moored vessel at Port of Brownsville Marina, 
Bremerton, WA.  A very nice and very reasonable priced marina, you can see it 
on Google Earth.  She also has a 8HP diesel that hasn’t been started since the 
heart attack.    

I have title in hand and will consider any reasonable offer.  I don’t have a 
trailer for the C or she’d be out of the water.  She’s currently moored at 
A-48 and the office is open daily 7 days a week.  I can meet anyone who wants 
to see her. 


Contact: 

Dan Utinske
253-432-0572 Cell
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Re: Stus-List changing stern light

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I replaced all of my navigation lights with LED's this year. I was able to find 
units that fit the plates on the pulpits. I recall they were about 20 $$ each. 
Much brighter.which reminds me I have to come up with a shield for the 
stern light because it is so bright, you look astern and the night vision is 
gone.
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK IIKomoka Ontario 

On Thursday, August 10, 2017 9:15 PM, james via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  If you have the same stern light that I have, look at this 
linkhttp://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-8dhjm4ne/products/152/images/949/Eyeball3__60776.1445526326.1280.1280.jpg?c=2
 for a LED replacement. James Taylor Delaney C 38, 1976 Oriental, NC 
  
 On 8/10/2017 8:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
  
 Clueless as to the bulb. 
  Tape a box under the fixture. 
  Dennis C.  
 On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 7:31 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
Ahoy!  
  Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an OEM 
1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the water? 
I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to minimize 
dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard?  
  Thanks,  Richard Walter  s/v INDIGO  
 __ _
 
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 ___

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 ___

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Stus-List Removing wood bungs

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Does anyone know if C used glue or varnish on interior wooden bungs?
Have to remove 7 of them and just trying to get a handle on the job so I am 
doing as little damage as possible.
Thank you
John on Enterprise
33 MK IISarnia Ontario
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Re: Stus-List 1985 - CNC 33 Replacement Companionway Door

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I think mine is likely the original plywood one.
Looks rough but I just keep putting teak oil on it and it looks good for a week 
or two.
John on Enterprise
Komoka ON
 

On Thursday, July 13, 2017 9:26 AM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 #yiv6171637143 #yiv6171637143 -- _filtered #yiv6171637143 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 
4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6171637143 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 
4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6171637143 {font-family:Arial-BoldMT;}#yiv6171637143 
#yiv6171637143 p.yiv6171637143MsoNormal, #yiv6171637143 
li.yiv6171637143MsoNormal, #yiv6171637143 div.yiv6171637143MsoNormal 
{margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv6171637143 a:link, 
#yiv6171637143 span.yiv6171637143MsoHyperlink 
{color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6171637143 a:visited, 
#yiv6171637143 span.yiv6171637143MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6171637143 
p.yiv6171637143msonormal0, #yiv6171637143 li.yiv6171637143msonormal0, 
#yiv6171637143 div.yiv6171637143msonormal0 
{margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv6171637143 
span.yiv6171637143EmailStyle18 {color:#FF;}#yiv6171637143 
.yiv6171637143MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv6171637143 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 
72.0pt 72.0pt;}#yiv6171637143 div.yiv6171637143WordSection1 {}#yiv6171637143 I 
sourced out a piece of plexi-glass and cut it myself (there is a special jigsaw 
blade that cuts up and down and avoids “melting” the cut .)    Pretty cheap ..  
  Tim    Matico C 33 mk ii             From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: July 13, 2017 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Raymond Macklin 
Subject: Stus-List 1985 - CNC 33 Replacement Companionway Door    I am needing 
to replace my companionway door on my 33.  Does anyone know where I might find 
one to purchase or suggestions on how to replace it.    Thanks,    Ray Macklin 
LakeHouse Milwaukee, WI 



This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out atwww.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié 
àwww.rogers.com/aviscourriel ___

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Re: Stus-List cc 33-2 shroud tension question

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I have the gauge on my boat and will try to remember to check when I am there 
on Wednesday.
I think I remember, but don't want to say in case I am wrong.
You could check the Loos tension gauge site. It may say.
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK IIKomoka Ont
 

On Monday, June 19, 2017 11:43 AM, Hector Saulnier via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  C 33 mk2Anyone know the recommended shroud tension settings for the uppers, 
middles and lowers for approx 15-20 knots of wind when racing and backstay 
tension lbs? ThanksHector___

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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20 now ICom 506

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I originated this issue.
Remove the ICOM radio from my network and the GNX 20 displays  functions. Left 
it running for two days and went out for a sail.
We found some date on line that some N2K compliant radios are not fully 
compatible.
Now have to come up with something so the DSC function on my ICOM works.
Thanks for all your comments
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK IIKomoka ON 

On Wednesday, May 24, 2017 9:03 AM, Dave via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 Agreed with Paul - my n2k/AIS ICOM m506 displays GPS data from the n2k Garmin 
antenna reliably.  In fact an alarm goes off to warn me of no gps data if I 
turn off the instruments but not the gps.  
Similarly, the ais data provided by the M506 displays on The Raymarine i70 
display.  So, it works both ways.
This worked all last season as well, so if there was an issue it predates late 
2015/2016.  (Radio purchased Jan 2016) 
What does not work is getting the AIS data to via gateway to devices outside 
the wired n2k network.   Working on that.
Dave


Sent from my iPhone
On May 24, 2017, at 5:29 AM, Paul Fountain <p...@seasource.ca> wrote:



Not sure this is still the case ... I just installed an icom 506 AIS/ N2K 
radio, and it and my ray N2K MFD they recognized each other and the radio got 
the gps info right away, and the AIS info was showing on the MFD once the 
antenna was connected. There are no 0183 devices left on Perception. 
Get Outlook for iOSFrom: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of 
Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2017 3:56:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20 From a cruising forum.

So my partner contacted ICOM UK, who said that despite what is printed in the 
manual,the Icom M506 does not support obtaining a GPS position over NMEA 2000. 
The menu option to select an NMEA 2000 GPS source does nothing.

Apparently they had compatibility issues with different manufacturers' MFDs 
when designing the radio, so at the last minute they pulled support for 
obtaining position information via NMEA 2000. They have asked ICOM Japan for a 
firmware update to fix this, but none has been forthcoming.

So caveat emptor. I would still recommend this radio, on the proviso that you 
are able to provide position info via NMEA 0183. Without it you will still get 
AIS on your plotter (but not the radio), but the radio will not be able to make 
GPS tagged DSC calls, which is obviously concerning.

It's advertised as a fully native NMEA 2000 device, but at this time it is not.

Jerry



-Original Message-----
From: John McKay via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: John McKay <jmckay...@yahoo.ca>
Sent: Tue, May 23, 2017 9:02 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a schematic of 
everything on it and they have not suggested changes.
I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display right next 
(T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the GMI 20 works 
flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between the T's. Garmin cannot 
explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 continues flawlessly.
Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.
John


On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
John –  Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available 
online.  N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power 
consumption of all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure 
you’re inline.  N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in 
case that accidently happened.   Others can probably provide more thoughts. 
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I believe my network is set up properly. I have given Garmin a schematic of 
everything on it and they have not suggested changes.
I failed to say in my original question that I have a GMI 20 display right next 
(T's attached to each other) to the GNX 20 display and the GMI 20 works 
flawlessly. I have switched the two drop cables between the T's. Garmin cannot 
explain why the GNX 20 fails and the GMI 20 continues flawlessly.
Thanks for everyone's suggestions so far.
John
 

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Is your N2K network properly terminated?  Another thing to check.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:
John –   Also check the voltage at the unit.  Pin-out of the cable is available 
online.  N2K circuits have limits to the number of devices and the power 
consumption of all devices, length of cable, etc.   Double check to make sure 
you’re inline.  N2k also has issues if multiple power supplies exist – just in 
case that accidently happened.    Others can probably provide more thoughts. 
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Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I bought a Garmin wind instrument package a year ago and one of the displays is 
a GNX 20.
The display lock continuously. The on/off button does not work. I have to 
disconnect the power. 
Garmin says this display works flawlessly. They are trying to tell me the 
problems is because I have an ICOM M604 radio connected to the Garmin system.
I am having problem believing this because the M604 is NMEA 2000 compatible.
Has anyone had a problem with the GNX 20 display freezing?
Did you come up with a fix?
Thank you
John on Enterprise 33 Mk IILondon Ontario___

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 shroud tensions

[John McKay via CnC-List]

MikeThe guage will give a recommended tension for the rod diameter. I would 
started with this.
I just started to use the Loos guage last fall so not much experience with the 
guage really.
John on EnterpriseSarnia Ontario 

On Thursday, May 18, 2017 8:19 AM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 

  Does 
anybody have numbers for shroud tension on 33-2 using Loos Rt-10?    Thanks    
Mike For Colmonel ___

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Re: Stus-List Navtec Backstay Adjuster

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Steve
I took mine apart as best I could to see if I could find wear and tear.
The one thing I noticed was that the hydraulic fluid was very very low.
I emptied what I could. I have the instruction for bleeding the system and did 
this and then refilled according to the instructions. I put some tension on it 
left for a few days then topped up again with fluid.
I took it to the workshop at the yacht club where we sail and we think we got 
about 2,500 pounds of pressure on the system and the piston did not move at all 
over 48 hours. Apparently the hydraulic fluid heats in the black casing and 
vaporizes which can leak around the seals.
You may want to try this first.
John on Enterprise 

On Friday, March 24, 2017 5:21 PM, Steve Hood via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  Sorry to rehash the 
same questions, but I've also been off list for a while.
Can anyone recommend a shop in Toronto or SW Ontario who can refurbish my 
hydraulic backstay adjuster?
Thanks
Steve HoodS/V Diamond GirlC 34

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Re: Stus-List Prop Pullers

[John McKay via CnC-List]

The Princess Auto one worked for me. It had, I will call them, two teeth or 
arms,,I felt three would have been better.
It did need some heat from a propane torch and a couple of sharp taps from a 
hammer and the puller worked beautifully.
John on Enterprise
 

On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 11:16 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Bought one at Princess Auto for peanuts.

Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 22, 2017, at 7:55 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:


A large gear puller should be enough.

Joel
On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 1:04 AM RANDY via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers-
What's your favorite prop puller?  Or at least, which one / what kind would you 
recommend to pull a fixed two-blade 12" prop off a 7/8" SAE tapered shaft with 
5/8" x 11 UNC thread?
Thanks,Randy___

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Roller furling choices advice?

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I put a new furler on Enterprise a year ago. I had Harkens on my two previous 
boats.
I went with Pro furler on Enterprise. I got a new head sail at the same time 
and the sail loft is a Pro furler dealer. My thinking was they would do it all 
and ensure the sail worked with the furler.
they did a great job installing. there was a significant cost saving too.
But, I do think the Harken worked better. I find if the tension on the forestay 
is not just right, the Pro furler is very hard to furl.
J 

On Friday, January 13, 2017 11:19 PM, Michael Jones via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Ls and Gs
I'm sure there is loads of experience on roller furlers out there...can you 
share some of it? I have a 1981 C 34 with a track on the forestay.
I am considering replacing this with a roller furler  I'd like to be able to 
install myself, and I'd like to keep the existing forestay as it's rod and I'd 
rather not have to disturb it by shortening it as some of the systems require. 
I'd also like not to have to change it to wire (at least one furler 
manufacturer claims their system is not compatible with rod rigging). 
Profurl seems a possibility, Harken would need to shorten the stay.
Any comments would be appreciated!
Best regards
Mike Jones1981 C 34 SeanachaiOak Bay, Victoria.
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Stus-List Navtec back stay tensioner

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Continuing in my saga to figure out why the tensioner does not hold, I have 
unscrewed every screw and bolt and guage. Nothing looks worn but I know that 
something being old and brittle could be the issue.
It seems to me the tensioner drum itself has to come apart so you can get at 
the seals or o-ring at the bottom of the piston. I cannot see how to open this. 
Does anyone know how this comes apart?
I have the Navtec 10 - 7 which is the square sided drum
Thanks
John on Enterprise___

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Re: Stus-List C 33 MKI Dodger

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Hi Paul
I bought a 33 MK II two years ago and my wife said I had to get a dodger or a 
bimini.
I  opted for a bimini because I am on Lake Huron and not many manufacturers 
nearby. I canvased the TO Boat show and no one was interested in making  me a 
dodger because they all said they need to see the boat and most wanted to 
install, but no one would because of the travel time.
Talked with Genco, they showed me pictures of biminis they recently made for 
33's.
I installed myself. Frame fit perfectly, canvas fit perfectly.
I like the bimini better than the dodger because I can get out of the sun too.
John on Enterprise


 

On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 9:14 PM, Paul Vint via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hi all,

After a few years of cruising Lake Ontario and the 1000 Islands in the St. 
Lawrence River I'm planning on some extended cruising next season, maybe to end 
up where winter doesn't suck.

My old 33 MKI is naked - no dodger and no bimini, and while I love that, let's 
face it, some shelter from wind/rain/sun would be damned nice, and this spring 
I'm going to bite the bullet and do it.

I would really love some opinions (and pictures?) of some designs and "dos and 
don'ts" for dodger design.  

Resolute has the traveller just aft of the companionway, which will be a bit of 
a pain for dodger design, but I'm not moving it (it's a newish traveller, and 
really really nice!).

My main concerns in the dodger design are how to handle the slope of the cabin 
top (so it looks ok) and to keep things so that the lines are clear to the 
winches with room for cranking. I could deal with a dodger being in the way of 
the more forward winches and just use the aft ones when the dodger's "trailing 
wings" are pulled back.

Last season I worked out the height - a bit lower than the boom will let me 
look through it when sitting and look over when standing (in the picture that's 
my son who is a bit taller than me!)

Image for reference: 
http://resolute.rocks//images/Resolute_port_slowsail_wkjib.jpeg

I appreciate any comments, especially those which explain what you feel like 
are mistakes on your own dodger! (and any and all pics of a 33 MKI dodger 
appreciated VERY much!)

Cheers!

Paul

Resolute - 1975 C 33 MKI

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Re: Stus-List Windex light for <$20

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I already have one of these on the boat. Never thought of this use
John on Enterprise
 

On Friday, December 30, 2016 10:00 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Just for the record, Touche' has an installed Davis Windex light and I 
wouldn't do it any other way.  However, for someone looking for an inexpensive 
Windex light, I have a suggestion.

I got one of these for Christmas to use for working around the boat.



I got to thinking it might illuminate the Windex from the deck.  Tried it last 
night.  It REALLY illuminated the Windex.

I clamped it to the stern pulpit.  Had to use a rag to help it grip.

The tilt has click stops and the swivel is a bit loose so it took a bit of 
effort to get it aimed just right but it seemed to work fairly well. 

There may be other similar lights out there that will work better.  What the 
heck, if it doesn't make a good Windex light for you, you can still use it to 
work around the boat.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Damn Kevin I howled
How often did I hear these conversation the last racing season!
John
 

On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 5:40 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 Not sure why the ass end of the boat has so much difficulty following 
instructions: https://youtu.be/4MRunq1y2_A
On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:45 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Another aspect of smoother end for end gybes with sheets and guys is having the 
foredeck make certain there is plenty of slack lazy guy at the chain plates 
prior to beginning the maneuver – how much slack is determined through 
practice.  When the pole is trimmed back as the boat turns down, and then 
tripped, the spin trimmer controls the kite with both sheets and there is no 
load on the new guy.  The mast man / foredeck should be able to drop the new 
guy into the jaw and push the pole out and make it on the mast without any real 
load on the pole via the guy.  The guy trimmer only trims back the new guy 
after the call of “Made” is heard from the foredeck, and then the spin trimmer 
eases the weather spin sheet as the new guy is brought in.   And of course, the 
helmsman has to not turn up to the new course until that call as well… All it 
takes is a lot of practice to get everyone on the same page…  ;)   From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2016 3:04 PM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling Think about it like this, if the 
center seam on the bottom panel of the chute is directly ahead of the boat 
(centered on the forestay) it is easy to move the chute side to side to make 
the pole on either side.  If the center seam has prematurely crossed the 
forestay to the leeward side then the foredeck person has to push the sail back 
to windward to make the pole.A simple light air practice exercise is to center 
the main, steer the boat keeping the Windex CENTERED between the tabs and then 
have the foredeck gybe the chute back and forth a few times.  Put a piece of 
tape on the center seam of the bottom panel to give a visible reference to the 
forestay.When racing, if the foredeck can complete the gybe and have the pole 
made on the mast while the Windex is still well between the tabs, it should go 
smoothly.  The speed of the turn is controlled by the helmsperson!  Watch the 
center seam! Dennis C. On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:30 PM, John McKay via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Yikes, and I have been blaming it on the foredeck guys! On Tuesday, December 6, 
2016 12:09 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: As 
someone who does the pointy end on multiple racing boats, I fully concur. 
Almost all of the FUBAR kite moments are down to the ham-fisted monkey at the 
blunt end Cheers,Paul. 1974 27' MkII Sidney, BC.
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Yikes, and I have been blaming it on the foredeck guys! 

On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 12:09 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 #yiv8286461759 #yiv8286461759 -- P 
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv8286461759 As someone who does the pointy 
end on multiple racing boats, I fully concur. Almost all of the FUBAR kite 
moments are down to the ham-fisted monkey at the blunt endCheers,Paul.
1974 27' MkIISidney, BC.

From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Kaseler via 
CnC-List 
Sent: December 5, 2016 6:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Kaseler; Michael Brown
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling Turns out, in my view, the 
success of spinnaker set, gybe and take down is controlled at the helm. When 
the boat is correctly driven through the maneuver the job on the foredeck is 
much more manageable. Please don't tell my wife the skipper.Dave. KSLY 1975 C 
33

Sent from my iPad



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Re: Stus-List manhole properly explain

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I had a good laugh at that one!
 

On Monday, December 5, 2016 9:55 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 
Hi Chuck, 

I'm glad you took this on the clarify manhole. I don't want guys at theboatyard 
to be getting the wrong idea. :)

  Thanksagain, Russ
  Sweet 35mk-1
  LunaticFringe, B.C.



At 03:25 PM 05/12/2016, you wrote:

A "hand hole" is aninspection hole with a cover large enough to get a hand 
through. A"manhole" is larger allowing a man to get through.


On December 5, 2016 at 2:08 PM"Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Inspection plate???
 
From: David viaCnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2016 11:54 AM
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as nextboat
 
Errr...what is a "hand hole"?
 
 
 
Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 12/4/16 19:44 (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat

My holding tank is plastic but the hand hole came loose and was aconsiderable 
pain in the ass to fix.  The forward water tank in mineis aluminum and the fuel 
tank is aluminum.  The back stayattachments are a place for detailed 
inspection.  You'll probablyfind that the steering cable idlers plate, directly 
under the pedestal,is probably badly rusted.  It should be one of the first 
safetyrepairs.  The engine mounts may be soft and in need of replacementtoo. 
 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Dec 4, 2016, 6:28 PM Gary Russell via 
CnC-Listwrote:
   
  - Hi Mark,

  -  Wow!  We have a lot in common. Last year I sold my 35 Mk II 
(Expresso) and bought my 37/40+.  Iloved Expresso, but the 37+ is better in 
almost every way.  Theperformance difference is breathtaking.  The boat I 
bought was inpretty bad shape and I spent almost a year refitting her.  
Werenamed her "Kaylarah" after my grand daughters Kayla andSarah.  The side 
windows are chronic problems on these boats, butalmost all of them have that 
problem, so you will probably have to dealwith that.  If you are, at all handy, 
they are not that hard tofix.  I can give you a lot of advice in that area.  
The holdingtank is made out of aluminum, and the tank was installed before 
theinterior was installed.  Repairing/replacing the tank is a bigdeal.  Of 
course, you should watch out for the usual punky coreddeck.  Otherwise she is a 
good boat with minimal problems. Text me if you need specific advice.  There 
are a lot of 37/40+owners on this forum and they have a lot of helpful 
knowledge.   

  -     

  - Good luck,   

  - Gary   

  - S/V Kaylarah   

  - '90 C 37+   

  - East Greenwich, RI, USA   

  -     

  - ~~~_/)~~   
   

  -     

  - On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 6:48 PM, Mark via 
CnC-Listwrote:   
  
 - I am looking at a 1993 C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. Myfirst 
big boat was a 1974 C 27 which I had to 12 years, thenupgraded to a 1975 C 
35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (comeFebruary) on the best boat ever built, I'm 
looking to upgrade tosomething a little more cruising, but with C 
performance. Giventhat requirement, it seems reasonable that I should stick 
withC  
  

 - I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C 37+and 
most everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed inMarco 
Island and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at itover the 
Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seemsquite basic; 
doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spinhardware & Dacron sails) 
and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e.needs windless, davits, etc.). Could be 
a good platform to startwith.  
  

 - For you C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I shouldpay 
close attention to other than engine condition & standing riggingcondition that 
could bite me.  
  

 - Thanks,  

 - Mark Baldridge  

 - ~~_/)  

 - '75 C MKII "The Edge"  

 - Surf City, NC  
  
  

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 - This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. 
Ifyou wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
  

 - All Contributions are greatly appreciated!  
  


  -     

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wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   
   

  - All Contributions are greatly 

Re: Stus-List 33-2 original cove stripe cover

[John McKay via CnC-List]

How are you going to remove the mylar. The stripe on Enterprise is in bad 
shape, almost looks like it is many pieces about 2" long placed end to end.
John on Enterprise 

On Tuesday, November 15, 2016 3:57 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I am sprucing up our 33-2 and am looking for input on the cove stripe and 
diamond and star colours. I have two boot stripes, the bottom being bright red 
and the upper a light blue. The imperial polishing compound has brought them up 
nicely. The cove stripe is mylar and the same color as the boot stripe and the 
diamonds and stars painted gold. I plan a new red mylar cove stripe, but am 
undecided about the gold. Can anyone tell me if the gold was original? I would 
like to restore to original?
Any other relevant advice welcome
Cheers,DougCeltic Knot85 33-2 cb

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 mainsail replacement - update

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I got a new main and genoa in the fall of 2015 from Boston Sails in Point 
Edward. 
I am very pleased with them
John on Enterprise
 

On Sunday, October 23, 2016 9:06 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 in case anyone is interested (I know two fellow owners are looking for new 
mains) here is an update on my mainsail progress, along with some 33-2 
dimensional info.  
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/mainsail-specification-rig-photos.html

I also updated and earlier post with some  guidance from two sail lofts.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/10/mainsail-beyond-expired.html

Am expecting two more quotes and will post conclusions later.  

Almost done.
Dave

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Re: Stus-List C Polars Again

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Does anyone have the polars for a C 33 MK II?
John on Enterprise
 

On Tuesday, September 27, 2016 12:58 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 No problem Bill.

Since we're back to this, I've appended the polar data (in CSV format) I got 
from my SailTimer Wind Instrument and SailTimer App this past weekend, as 
promised.  Needless to say, I think this data is wrong, for reasons discussed 
below.  For example it shows I can reach hull speed close-hauled in 9 knots of 
wind, but I'm slower than that on beam reach in the same wind.  I don't think 
either of those things is true.
,TWS
TWA,3,6,9,12,15,18,21
22.5,0.5,1.2,1.5,1.5,1.5,1.5,1.5
45.0,2.0,5.0,6.7,6.7,6.7,6.7,6.7
67.5,1.6,4.1,5.5,5.5,5.5,5.5,5.5
90.0,1.6,4.1,5.4,5.4,5.4,5.4,5.4
112.5,2.7,4.0,5.4,5.4,5.4,5.4,5.4
135.0,1.5,3.8,5.0,5.0,5.0,5.0,5.0
157.5,1.3,3.3,4.4,4.4,4.4,4.4,4.4
180.0,2.6,3.0,4.0,4.0,4.0,4.0,4.0
Now, why is this data wrong.  First, it was the first time I'd used the 
SailTimer App in anger and it wasn't a controlled experiment in polar learning 
(the app lets you toggle polar learning on and off, and I wasn't careful about 
when it was on).  Second, this data was collected in a variety of wind 
conditions and sail configurations.  Friday afternoon it was blowing 20 gusting 
35 and I was sailing under double-reefed main only because my mom was aboard 
with only one other of my regular crew and they were nervous in that wind 
strength.  Saturday and Sunday I was in a two-day regatta in very light and 
fickle air under full main, 155% genoa, and sometimes even a staysail.  Because 
I was preoccupied with racing and adjusting sails constantly, I wasn't paying 
attention to the app and accurate polar learning.
The app must have some kind of algorithm to interpolate / extrapolate boat 
speeds in wind speeds and angles that it hasn't observed, because I can 
guarantee I didn't hit every combination of TWS/TWA in the above data over the 
weekend.  But this gives an example of what the instrument and app can do.  
Before the season ends, I'd like to get back out and do a controlled experiment 
- a new data set under main and 155 in say 12 knots, through every TWA, 
toggling learning on and off at the right times.
Cheers,Randy
From: "Bill Coleman via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Bill Coleman" 
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2016 8:33:06 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Polars Again

#yiv4349699578 #yiv4349699578 _filtered #yiv4349699578 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 
3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv4349699578 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 
2 4;} _filtered #yiv4349699578 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 
4;}#yiv4349699578 p.yiv4349699578MsoNormal, #yiv4349699578 
li.yiv4349699578MsoNormal, #yiv4349699578 div.yiv4349699578MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv4349699578 a:link, 
#yiv4349699578 span.yiv4349699578MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4349699578 a:visited, #yiv4349699578 
span.yiv4349699578MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4349699578 
p.yiv4349699578MsoAcetate, #yiv4349699578 li.yiv4349699578MsoAcetate, 
#yiv4349699578 div.yiv4349699578MsoAcetate 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv4349699578 
span.yiv4349699578EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv4349699578 
span.yiv4349699578BalloonTextChar {}#yiv4349699578 .yiv4349699578MsoChpDefault 
{font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv4349699578 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 
1.0in;}#yiv4349699578 div.yiv4349699578Section1 {}#yiv4349699578 Thanks Randy,  
That is a sweet page, Thanks for Sharing.I was able to make a .csv and import 
it into the e-95, (I usedthe C Polars).   Unfortunately it will probably be 
next spring B4 I seewhat it does for my Dynamic Vectors/Laylines.  Bill 
ColemanC 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of RANDY via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2016 12:28 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List C Polars Again Listers- Justwanted to share a site I saw 
with polars for a few different C: 
http://jieter.github.io/orc-data/site/ Ifyou look at the list of boats in the 
left-hand column (or search for"C" on the page), you'll see the following 
models:*C 30 (this is the new one-design version, I can tell from the boat 
speedsdownwind - it planes :)*C 30E (this is the European edition of the C 
30, apparently built& sold 1977-1982)*C 37*C 38*C 110*C 115Justclick on 
one of those boats and you'll see its polar diagram and polar table. I realize 
that polars are very boat-specific and sail-specific,but at least here are some 
data points.  For example the other week I tooka couple hundred pounds of stuff 
off my boat, emptied the tanks, and cleanedthe bottom, and I think it made a 
difference in light air.  But my sailsare old and tired, so I know my boat's 
polars will change again when I get newsails and a folding prop.

Forus software 

Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and autopilot business!

[John McKay via CnC-List]

As a follow up, I do like the EV100.
I installed, did the one or two circles and it works. The calibration was a 
breeze!
J
 

On Tuesday, September 20, 2016 8:03 PM, G Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 You Ray haters kill me...  just kidding!  But sometimes it pays to read 
the manual before you buy, and they are all available online these days.

That Garmin thing is a cool solution, I like it.  The Navico (B) 
version doesn't seem to be available anywhere, so that may have been a 
possible route to firmware updates but no longer...

I guess my conclusion early on was to get a MDF that goes with the big 
electronics on the boat, so my a75 MDF can update my EV200 autopilot.  
And IMHO it makes sense to have the same brand of anyway, so that you 
are sure they will work together as best they can.  My wind/speed/depth 
system, since it is B, is essentially orphaned.  I'm not so concerned 
with that.  And I am quite happy with my Raymarine gear, whereas I've 
had two Triton displays malfunction on me in the same 3 seasons.

As to why you can't update one companies gear from another companies 
MDF, I can't see any company signing up for that - say I update my B 
firmware over my Ray MDF, and next thing my Triton displays are bricks - 
who do I call to get it resolved? That would not be a fun day.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-09-20 9:58 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:
> You raymarine guys kill me.  Defend it to the end and drag others down 
> when it's obvious that Ray falls short. I've been saying it for years: 
> friends don't let friends buy raymarine.
>
> Dave/others; Per Garmin FAQ, Here's the solution if/when you decide to 
> leave the raymarine dark side :
>
>


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and autopilot business!

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I bought an EV100 autohelm this spring. A few weeks ago, I got an email from 
Raymarine talking about a software update. I call their tech line asking how I 
could get the update since the autohelm is stand alone. The rest of my 
electronics are Garmin.
He said I was out of luck. I pointed out I could update my Garmin with an SD 
card. He did not give a shit!
John on Enterprise
 

On Monday, September 19, 2016 10:07 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 LOL, OK, should not have implied ALL other vendors, but my cursory search 
found this this N2K to USB cable for your (?) B triton/navico/simrad.  Looks 
like its used in conjunction with a laptop and free dowloadable software.  You 
can also use a MFD,but are not forced to. 

http://www.marine-electronics-unlimited.com/blog/?page_id=98 

The Windows 8 software tool

http://www.bandg.com/de/Products/Triton-Display/Software-Upgrade-Tool/

I also checked ICOM, Furuno...   

It did appear that Airmar required one of their weather stations as an 
interface to update their sensors,but I did not explore this,nor how other 
manufacturers update their Airmar-made sensors.  

I'm sure there are situations where manufacturers attempt to promote a 
proprietary, closed-shop approach to updating but most of those i found did not.

Dave.  

From: G Collins 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
        autopilot business!
Message-ID:
        

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Other vendors don't take this approach?  Sure they do.  I've got B Triton 
displays - can't do any updating on them without a B MFD.  Same is true with 
all that I'm aware of.  And I'd love to buy a Maretron ultrasonic tank level 
sender, it is N2K - but to calibrate it I also have to buy one of their 
displays, which I have no other use for.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
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Re: Stus-List Garmin GMI10 Instrument

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I thought about this Tim but I have a GMI 10 on the same backbone as a GNX 20 
display. The GMI works flawlessly. The GNX 20 freezes. So it does not seem to 
be a voltage issue.
I have update software for the GNX 20 and still freezes.
Garmin has not been much help so far.
John on Enterprise


 

On Saturday, September 3, 2016 12:01 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Aaron,
I would suggest checking the voltage when other events occur (engine starting, 
water pressure or bilge pumps operating).  Electronics don't like it if 
momentary violate drops below around 10.5 Volts.
TimEx 35-3 (and NMEA certified installer)
On Sep 3, 2016, at 9:23 AM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List  
wrote:



My GMI10 started to randomly shut off.  I can power it back on using the power 
button. Not sure what to check. Power supply looks good. Other instruments are 
functioning OK. Any suggestions on what to check?
Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD
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Re: Stus-List C 33 Main Sail Sheave

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I wanted to replace the sheaves on Enterprise. I was advised by Klacko Spar who 
manufactured the mast to send them the old sheaves. They told me C did not 
necessarily use the same sheave on a particular mast. More what every they had 
on hand at the time.
I think it would be difficult to change without taking the mast down. I had to 
move halyards last year and did it with the mast up and it was all by feeling 
because I could not get high enough in the bosun's chair.
John on Enterprise
 

On Monday, August 8, 2016 6:51 PM, Free Girls Sailing via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 We have a main halyard sheave at the top of the mast that needs replacing. 
Anyone ever done this? Not sure where to look for parts and if it can be done 
without stepping the mast. Any advice is appreciated. I have a picture if it's 
allowed. 
Jessica 1975 C 33
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Re: Stus-List 33-2 Electrical upgrades, blog updated and organized with details and photos.

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Good luck with the upgrades Dave. I bought a 33 MK II in November 2015 and the 
list of upgrades does not seem to diminish!
John from Enterprise! 

On Sunday, July 24, 2016 10:43 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html
Plenty of upgrades, dedicated start battery, new panel, ACR, battery monitor, 
revised grounding etc.
Just the engine key relocation to consider and the LED lighting upgrades to 
finish plus installation of Calframo fans and .. well the fridge and maybe an 
automatic bilge pump.   So, nearly done!
Other work also documented and posted.
Dave  33-2 Windstar.

   


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Re: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I have one on board that I screw
into the deck fitting then use one of the fitting at the pump. Will try to 
remember to check the size when I am there tomorrow.
hSeinto the deck fittit from Yahoo Mail on Android
 
 
  On Fri, Jul 22, 2016 at 1:38 pm, Bradley Lumgair via 
CnC-List wrote:   I use the marinas cone shaped rubber 
pump out fitting as I haven't been able to find anything that fits. The 
standards seem to be 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 inch. I think it's some metric thread. It 
says made in NZ on my deck fittings. Will be changing deck fittings this next 
winter.Found this on the 
interwebhttp://www.edsonintl.com/pumpstore/index.php?main_page=product_info=103_id=180=cbf21b478906895bb76e2de6ee978487This
 looks like the one at our 
Marinahttp://mypumpstore.com/Universal-Marine-Pump-Out-Adapter-60709-00.htmBrad"Pulse;
 C 33 MkIILake Huron  
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Stus-List Hydraulic Back Stay Adjuster

[John McKay via CnC-List]

My 33 MK II has a Navtec Model IA 7 - 10 back stay adjuster.
I was out today and notic3d the fore stay kept sagging. I would pump the 
adjuster to tension it and in a few minutes it would release.
I suspect this is original equipment on a 30 year old boat. 
I am wondering if others with this vintage boat have experienced this and if 
there is a fix?
I am in Sarnia Ontario. Are there any repair depots in Ontario I can talk to?
If you replaced the adjuster, what did you buy?
Has anyone tried to replace with a couple of Harken blocks? 
As always, thanks for any response.
John on Enterprise___

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Re: Stus-List Throttle and shift levers

[John McKay via CnC-List]

On Enterprise, forward is forward.
John
 

On Monday, June 13, 2016 7:39 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  I reset the tension on the throttle cable before splashing this spring so the 
throttle would stay where set. Broke the plastic throttle lever on the weekend. 
So I ordered both the stainless ones from Marinepartdepot for less than half 
what Edson is asking. Hoping it's not a rip offThe shifter lever on the left 
side of the pedestal seems to operate in reverse of what would be logical, as 
in I pull the lever back to shift to forward, is this standard for a 1985 33-2? 
Or has someone messed with the routing of the linkage?ThanksBrad"Pulse" 1985 
C 33 Mk IILake Huron

I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Soliciting help with 33-2 Engine 2GM20F control layout and cooling water through hull location.

[John McKay via CnC-List]

C Yachts - C Photo Album & Resource Center
|   |
|   |   |   |   |   |
| C Yachts - C Photo Album & Resource CenterOur aim is to preserve and 
enhance the reputation and prestige of C Yachts; to provide C owners a 
library of information and to provide a site where C owners call home. This 
site is owned by Stu Murray and is not affiliated with C Yachts. |
|  |
| View on www.cncphotoalbum.com | Preview by Yahoo |
|  |
|   |

I think you will find the engine control panel and thru hull fitting diagrams 
on this site. if not, contact me, i have them save.
John on Enterprise
 

On Sunday, May 8, 2016 1:18 AM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hi Doug,

I have same boat and same engine. Cooling water intake through-hull valve 
access is via starboard cockpit locker.  I have a start button and a stop cable.

If you can't find things, just trace back from the engine.

Cheers,
Mike
Atacama 33ii 
Toronto (but now in Port Hardy about to embark on a sail around the west coast 
of Vancouver Island)

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

-Original Message-
From: Doug Welch via CnC-List 
Sender: "CnC-List" 
Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 01:16:03 
To: C List
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Subject: Stus-List Soliciting help with 33-2 Engine 2GM20F control layout
 and cooling water through hull location.

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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I use  a strip of canvas the same colour as my sail cover. It is about 5" wide 
and 5' long. 
I wrap it around and it does the job in all but heavy, prolonged rains.
John on Enterprise 

On Wednesday, May 4, 2016 4:33 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I have 2 inch gray self fusing tape on Touché. Put on several overlapping 
wraps. In my opinion, it's the best. Been on for several years now and is still 
in good condition. Absolutely leak tight once you fill the main sail slot with 
sealant like LifeSeal. 

The gray blends in with the aluminum mast and collar so it's barely noticeable. 
Highly recommended. 
Bought it on eBay. 
Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone
On May 4, 2016, at 1:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


Ok folks,I need a new mast boot.  I've seen the poured rubber block that is 
more or less permanent.  Wally has a write up about how he did it on Stella 
Blue and I saw it first hand on Jake's boat.  I like it but I think it is too 
big of a commitment right now.  Until then, I'm thinking of using the 
self-vulcanizing rubber tape that is 6" wide.  Having used similar products 
like "Rescue Tape" for other projects, I expect that I'll need a length that is 
at least 3 times the circumference of my mast collar (35" * 3 = 105"). Does 
anybody have any thoughts on the best way to do this job, or which product is 
best?Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

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Stus-List EV-100 Question

[John McKay via CnC-List]

As I read the manuals, I have seen several times that the unit MUST be 
installed when the boat is on the hard or tied to a pontoon dock or floats.
I don't understand the point to this. 
Any experiences?
John on EnterpriseC 33 MK II___

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I bought a EV-100 recentlyThe documentation is extremely confusingI called 
Raymarine Tech Support. There is not rudder indicator.I suspect you are seeing 
that reference in the manual that talks about the ST4000. The person I talked 
to said there are about two pages in that manual about installing the motor 
mount to the wheel. Once that is done, put that manual aside.the other problem 
I had was there is no power cable for one of the units and I find the 
black/white cables are short. Apparently both of these issues are my 
responsibility and have to buy these cables myself.
John on Enterprise 

On Thursday, April 21, 2016 10:03 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Does the EV-100 wheel pilot system require a rudder reference system? 
Raymarine sells those for about $250.
CheersBob MOx 33-1Jax, FL

On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 8:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Gee, Richard; I’m speechless…   :^)   Thanks!
Mark — Defender’s current public price on the EV-100 wheel pilot system is LESS 
than my dealer’s cost right now.  I’m hoping that means that Raymarine is 
coming out with a newer (more powerful?) version, but don’t hold your breath.  
They’re pretty tight-lipped about upcoming products.
If anyone on the list is looking for a wheel pilot, now’s the time to get one — 
$1159.99 plus a $300.00 rebate.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



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Re: Stus-List transom ladder

[John McKay via CnC-List]

thanks BradWhere is Pulse in the yard?
is she tarped or would I be able to see the ladder and get some measurements?
John
 

On Saturday, January 30, 2016 8:37 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Good morning JohnYou're welcome to take measurements and pictures from Pulse 
if you find a welder, should be someone local that can weld that up for 
you.BradC 33MkII "Pulse"

I'd rather be sailing

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Stus-List transom ladder

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 Enterprise, my 33 MK II did not have a boarding ladder when I purchased her.
I am looking for one that folds up. Because of the slope of the transom, it 
need a bend in it.  I am not having any luck finding one.
Does anyone know of a good source. Garelick has been suggested but I don't see 
anything on their site.
Thanks in advance
John on EnterpriseKomoka___

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Re: Stus-List Folding props

[John McKay via CnC-List]

You brought a smile to my face with this one Martin!
 

On Tuesday, December 22, 2015 4:48 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 #yiv4606771206 #yiv4606771206 -- _filtered #yiv4606771206 
{font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv4606771206 
{font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv4606771206 
#yiv4606771206 p.yiv4606771206MsoNormal, #yiv4606771206 
li.yiv4606771206MsoNormal, #yiv4606771206 div.yiv4606771206MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv4606771206 a:link, 
#yiv4606771206 span.yiv4606771206MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4606771206 a:visited, #yiv4606771206 
span.yiv4606771206MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4606771206 
p.yiv4606771206MsoAcetate, #yiv4606771206 li.yiv4606771206MsoAcetate, 
#yiv4606771206 div.yiv4606771206MsoAcetate 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv4606771206 
span.yiv4606771206EmailStyle17 
{color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv4606771206 
span.yiv4606771206BalloonTextChar {}#yiv4606771206 .yiv4606771206MsoChpDefault 
{font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv4606771206 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 
1.0in;}#yiv4606771206 div.yiv4606771206WordSection1 {}#yiv4606771206 >The time 
it takes between putting her into reverse and actually moving backward with 
flow over the rudder is what can take several seconds with a folder… If other 
things are happening nearby (current, wind, pilings, etc.), these few seconds 
can seem like a very long time!.       Back in the mid 70’s I was crewing on a 
C 39.  The local rock star sailmaker was onboard for an event on Lake 
Washington related to Seattle Yacht Club’s Opening Day parade.  A few adult 
beverages may have been consumed in the process of crossing the lake to join a 
party at another competitor’s lake front home.    When it was pointed out to 
the rock star he was pointing the 39’s bow into a covered slip, he quickly hit 
reverse (A4 engine, Martec folding prop) and added throttle.  With the standard 
delay in actually retarding the vessel’s forward motion the 39’s forestay 
(Stearn’s twin stay IIRC) made a noticeable twanging sound as it hit the metal 
roof over the slip.    It was hard to find the rock star at the party that 
afternoon.  Years later that rock star became Calypso’s insurance agent.  I 
don’t think he ever forgot how long it takes to reverse direction with a 
folding prop.    Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 C 43 Seattle 
    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 12:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding props    I was not referring to feathering props. As 
I understand them, they are designed to be about equal in forward or reverse. 
My former Max-Prop 3 blade feathering prop was excellent and relatively quickly 
got the boat going in reverse.   Any geared folding 2-blade prop will get a 
boat moving in reverse--just not very efficiently--especially if it is 
optimized for forward motion and minimum drag when folded.   The time it takes 
between putting her into reverse and actually moving backward with flow over 
the rudder is what can take several seconds with a folder..   If other things 
are happening nearby (current, wind, pilings, etc.), these few seconds can seem 
like a very long time!.   Charlie Nelson C 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom   
cenel...@aol.com 
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Re: Stus-List cost to recover cushions

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Enterprise came with the Brady Bunch Plaid. It was dirty and stain. Much to my 
surprise with a gentle wash, it looks pretty good.
John 

On Saturday, December 19, 2015 7:22 AM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Gary - that's a classic pattern, known as "Brady Bunch Plaid".   Timeless.
Dave


On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 5:56 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Oh, you guys are indeed ancient. My much more modern 1980 version has the


awesome beige, orange, and brown tone plaid stuff. It is also better at


showing stains, of which there are many. But, as 90 percent of its activity


is local racing, the cushions stay in the attic over the ?carriage house?


(that is a garage to you modern folks most of the time. Someday?.











Gary, in cold St. Michaels Marylan



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Re: Stus-List C 33 mark 2 (1985)

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I bought a C 33 MK II with this engine last fall.
I had a larger engine in my Mirage 29 & thought it may be under powered.
The Yanmar 2 GM 20 moves Enterprise (the 33) along nicely.
John on EnterpriseKomoka 


On Sunday, December 13, 2015 4:42 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Don't let the engine size deter you- our 33-ll k/CB had the 2gm when we bought 
her. Always got us where we were going.
I did upsize when I repowered to a Beta 25. Which just fit in the space.

Sent from Outlook Mobile



On Sun, Dec 13, 2015 at 10:10 AM -0800, "Bob Hickson via 
CnC-List" wrote:


A good friend is interested in making an offer on a 33 mark 2 centerboard 
version. The boat has a Yanmar 2GM20 with a 2 blade feathering prop - 16 Hp. 
This is the basically the same engine that I have in my 29 mk 2. It would seem 
that the boat would be underpowered with this engine. Does anyone have 
information that might help to answer this question. Did C offer an option of 
the 2GM or 3GM engine in this boat?
Bob Hickson Flying Colours 29 mk 2Toronto

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Stus-List Bimini

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 I understand a CC 33 MK II owner in Port Credit purchased a bimini from Genco 
in the last few weeks.
Could I see a picture of the of it please if you see this?
John on EnterpriseSarnia___

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Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I bought a 33 MK II in Toronto last fall and there was a loud hum. The hum was 
there on Toronto Island where I pick her up and at a marina on the mainland. I 
asked the owner about it and he said I have never heard that before and I 
thought what have I just bought myself.
When I launched her in Sarnia this spring, no hum so I am assuming it was 
tensioning of the stays and shroud
John on Enterprise

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Re: Stus-List Original oven and propane stove removed

[John McKay via CnC-List]

PeterCan you send me a picture, make and the dimensions please.
John on Enterprise
 


 On Tuesday, July 28, 2015 8:38 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   

 Peter - I'd recommend keeping the stove in the garage and putting it 
back in before you sell the boat.  Wal

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Stus-List Main sheet traveller track

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 I pulled the main sheet traveller track on my CC 33 Mk II to day.
There is a metal strip under it.
When I re-install it, should it be:
Glass, metal strip, bedding compound, track
or glass, bedding  compound, metal strip, track
or glass, bedding compound, metal strip, bedding compound, track?
I have not decided on what bedding compound to use. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
John on EnterpriseKomoka___

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Re: Stus-List Freezing cockpit drains solved

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I experience the same thing, the cockpit had about 5 inches of water in it 
during a thaw earlier this winter.
Another project to put on the list for the new Mark II.
john from Enterprise. 


 On Sunday, March 15, 2015 10:19 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   

  A couple of weeks ago I posted that the cockpit drains on my 33 mkii were 
frozen and the hoses had popped off. Upon investigation, I found that there was 
a low spot in the criss-crossed drains. I am not sure whether they were 
originally installed with a low spot or they just sagged over the years. In any 
event, I removed the old hoses which were type B fuel lines reinforced with 
steel wire. (had to cut them off with recip saw) and installed sanitation type 
hoses double clamped with no low spots. So far, so good, they always allow the 
water to drain off, no ice. Mike AmiraultCC33 mkii lovely CruiseSt Margarets 
Bay, N.S.
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Stus-List Stove

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 An question from another new CC 33  MK II owner.
I have been trying to get the original Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol 
stove working, and it scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not 
adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns about 8 high. Made an 
easy decision to scrap this.Any suggestions about a new stove top would be 
appreciated
John from Enterprise___

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Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes)

[John McKay via CnC-List]

My 26 had a Vires. I still have it sitting around if anyone wants it for spare 
parts and wants to arrange for pick.
John
 

 On Thursday, January 29, 2015 1:46 PM, Dan Utinske via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   

 My 26' uses a Yanmar Diesel 8HP.. 

On Thu, Jan 29, 2015 at 10:42 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

+ 1A 30 HP diesel is HUGE for a 29 foot boat.An A4 powered 29 would have the 
1:1 tranny, so depending on the prop you would have between about 15 and 25 HP 
available. Joe Della Barba From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2015 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal M4-30 (Eric Baumes) I have to ask the 
question: will it fit in the hole? That's a lot of engine for a 29ft boat. The 
A-4 only put out About 18hp at the RPM that it probably generated pushing your 
boat.  My yanmar 2gm20f seems to have more power than my A-4 did YMMVROB
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Re: Stus-List Dorade

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Back in the CC family!!
I recently purchased a CC 33 Mk II. I previous had a CC 26, then a Mirage 29.
I am fortunate that she is on the hard on our laneway for the winter so I have 
about a 30 second walk to get on her. Very convenient for me to get to know the 
boat and do work on her over the winter.
JohnNear London ON



On Saturday, December 27, 2014 2:09 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  

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{margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}#yiv1687883209 P.yiv1687883209MsoNormal 
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.yiv1687883209MsoChpDefault {}#yiv1687883209 DIV.yiv1687883209WordSection1 {}I 
have purchased them from West Marine (oops, not Canada any more) and Bacon 
Sails in Annapolis Maryland. They are a standard item, I believe made by Nicro. 
Gary30 #593
 - Original Message -  From: Peter Derviller via CnC-List  To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2014 2:06 PM Subject: 
Stus-List Dorade 
  Hello all: this is my first post on cnc-list. I carelessly knocked a vent 
overboard. Does anyone know of a source? I expect it was the original item that 
fits over a 3.25”  spigot. Thanks. Peter ‘79 CC30 “Oenone” Vancouver BC.      
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Stus-List Back in the CC Family

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I recently purchased a CC 33 Mk II. I previous had a CC 26, then a Mirage 29.
I am fortunate that she is on the hard on our laneway for the winter so I have 
about a 30 second walk to get on her. Very convenient for me to get to know the 
boat and do work on her over the winter.
JohnNear London ON ___
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole replacement

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I have a little separation on one piece of the sole. I am going to try to 
gently open up the separations, inject some glue or epoxy and clamp it tight
John Enterprise 

 On Saturday, December 13, 2014 1:51 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   

 Speakin' of which. Pegathy's cabin sole is original, I think, glass enclosed 
ply with holly/teak veneer and varnish. The veneer is separating from the ply, 
but the ply is in good shape, I think. I was thinking about using some kind of 
artificial teak/holly stuff and gluing it on top of the ply, after removing 
any loose veneer. Any suggestions as to if this is a good idea? And, if it is, 
what kind of stuff should I use. I'm hoping to do it over the winter.
Dan SheerPegathy CC LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List West Marine leaves Canada

[John McKay via CnC-List]

Genco still has the store further west in Toronto.

 

 On Monday, November 10, 2014 3:57 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
   

 Hi Steve,

For other options, you could try leaving Toronto... :)

I wonder about the fate of the Nanaimo West Marine store, serving apopulation 
area of 120,000 or so. Especially with the Harbour Chandler amile from the 
boats and willing to match Vancouver pricing on everythingand Internet pricing 
on many things. 

The comment on being highly seasonal is a little odd too. I'mjust about on my 
way to putter this afternoon on ship's husbandrytasks.

  Cheers,Russ
 Sweet35-1




At 10:39 AM 10/11/2014, you wrote:

That's a bummer .. the twomarine stores I frequent, West Marine and Genco. 
Genco has already closedit's doors on Queens Quay and now when West Marine 
closes there will benowhere to go in a pinch. Everyone else is quite a drive 
forme. What other options are there on Toronto's downtownwaterfront???

Steve
Suhana, CC 32
Toronto


On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 1:29 PM, Steve Thomas via 
CnC-Listcnc-list@cnc-list.comwrote:
   
  - Good question.        

  - They never even tried in South Western Ontario.
  
 - - Original Message -   

 - From: Bill Coleman viaCnC-List   

 - To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

 - Sent: Monday, November 10, 2014 1:10 PM  

 - Subject: Stus-List West Marine leaves Canada  
  
  

 -   
Wonder why?
  
  
  

 -   
 
  
  
  

 -   
West Marine plans exit from Canadian market
  
  

 - Marine retailer West Marine will close 10 stores in Canada during 
thenext few years, ending its presence in the country.  
  

 - “We have some fantastic associates up in Canada. This was a 
verydifficult decision for us,†West Marine CEO Matthew Hyde told 
analystsduring a quarterly earnings call Oct. 23. “That said, this is all 
aboutensuring that when leases come up that we’re making the 
rightdetermination about where we invest our money.† 
  

 - The company has seven leases coming up throughout the coming 
year,“so we’re going to be in Canada for quite some time,†Hydesaid.  
  

 - But the leases that were coming up “didn’t meet our 
minimumhurdles,†he said. Also, Canada faces some additional expenses. “Sowe 
will be closing our stores in Canada over the next few years,†Hydesaid.  
  

 - With the exception of the Toronto store, where the company has 
thelease termination at the end of this year, the six additional stores 
willoperate “basically through the season,†said CFO ThomasMoran.  
  

 - “As you can imagine, Canada is a pretty highly seasonal market. 
Sothat’s just a callout about next year.   
  

 - But beyond that, the impact on our top-line sales and on in 
ourcontribution and profitability is immaterial [in 2015],†Moransaid.  




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Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?

[John McKay via CnC-List]

what does one use to lubricate the shift cable and how?

John on Oxygen 


On Wednesday, June 4, 2014 7:54:00 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
  


mine is a black cable it's a 10 foot by 75. 
On May 27, 2014 3:26 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Or go to your reputable auto parts store with the old cable. A Teledyne cable 
is a Teledyne cable. And probably less at the auto parts store than at a boat 
supplier - and more likely to be in stock instead of a special order.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

 On May 27, 2014, at 12:09, Rich Knowles via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:

 Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old 
 one to make sure you have the right ends and length.

 Rich

 On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:

 I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left on 
 the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both.
 Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable?



 thanks Curtis



 --
 All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty 
 recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the 
 dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with 
 open eyes, to make it possible.

 T. E. Lawrence

 .



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