Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

If you can get no satisfaction.
Then make your own adaptor... a copper link, 
similar to buss bar material, with two holes: 
5/16 and 3/8. The common post adaptor gets bolted 
to the link at the 3/8" hole and the link gets 
bolted to the battery at the 5/16" hole.


Detail devils: make sure of correct hole distance 
apart to ensure clearance and avoid 
interferences. I.E.: do the drilling locally if possible.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1




At 06:38 AM 25/05/2016, you wrote:
Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed 
locally and after emailing the business twice to 
ensure it was in stock before making the drive 
(and I was assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. 
He had a pair of used ones on hand and gave them 
to me to make up for the error. I asked to make 
sure they fit the trojans and so he screwed them 
onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.Â


When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I 
discovered that one of them was stripped. I was 
FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter 
while I stood and watched so he KNEW that one 
was stripped. Why he went ahead and wasted my 
time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.Â


I had to summarize the engine one way or the 
other so I wrapped some tin foil around the stud 
to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. 
I'm willing to use some conductive epoxy at this 
point to make it a permanent thing but I would 
rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use 
for such a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.


Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. 
All the online places I could find are in the 
states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which 
in and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but 
they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 20 USD 
to ship and another *surprise* amount at the 
door. I can't stomach that, on principle if 
nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.


Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two 
stores. Napa doesn't have it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.


Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much 
appreciated. Crimping new battery cables isn't 
out of the question but I don't have the tool 
and removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.


Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

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of our members. If you like what we do, please 
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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Steve,

 

Don’t I recall this all started because you were changing over to golf cart 
batteries or diesel start batteries like Group 31s?

 

Couldn’t you take the batteries you bought back to the battery dealer and swap 
for batteries with the automotive lug terminals?

 

Golf cart batteries come with either style of terminal, and a Group 29 is the 
same as a Group 31, except with automotive posts.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 12:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links you 
guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:

 

The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine compartment, to 
the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll have to do some 
boat surgery just to get at the switch in order to disconnect the battery 
cables, then remove them from the boat which would take I estimate, about a 
day. No kidding. I relearn the lesson of budgeting time appropriately for boat 
work every time I think I'm going to get something done quickly, it's never 
quick and the list of things that really need to be done, is long. The past two 
weeks I worked six days each and managed to launch the boat, step the mast and 
get three garden beds in at the house. I am not a person who has a lot of time 
on his hands. 

 

I appreciate that you guys are recommending the "right way" to do this, but I'm 
comfortable with the adapters. They are threaded, and not going anywhere - just 
like the nuts that are recommended. I've always found the clamp style battery 
connectors to be secure and that's how the boat has always been for 36 
years now. The laws of physics haven't changed though I appreciate that 
standards have, and that's fine. One day I'de like to embark on the rewiring 
project but that's what it's going to be: a project, not a "spring prep" task. 
Ideally, those projects take place in the off-season so that they don't eat 
into precious sailing time.

 

The boat is 1.5 hours away. That's three hours of driving (on a good day, 
traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount of 
work involved in removing them. Sure, I could buy new ones, but I still have to 
remove the old and install the new. 

 

So, I'm looking for the adapters. I'll dig through all the helpful posts once I 
have time to breathe.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Why are you not bolting onto the stud?  What am I missing here?


On May 25, 2016, at 6:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
> 
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
> 
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
> around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing 
> to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
> would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
> all ears though I want this done with.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
> 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
> 
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
> 
> Again, this is what I am after:
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
> 
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new 
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and 
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I agree, I use a good mechanical connection (ancor like crimps) everywhere 
except on the battery lugs(I’m talking large gauge wire).  



ABYC actually has an exception to the  “shall not solder rule”


From ABYC E-11

11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any 
circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to 
minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible 
conductor into a solid conductor.

EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times 
the diameter of the conductor. 





-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 25, 2016, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 11:31:34 -0500
> From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net <mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts
> Message-ID: <233f060c-fbb9-44ae-a6a2-dcab1053e...@postaudio.net 
> <mailto:233f060c-fbb9-44ae-a6a2-dcab1053e...@postaudio.net>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> ABYC strictly prohibits solder as the sole means of connecting terminal to 
> wire; you absolutely need to use a good mechanical connection.  Solder 
> stiffens the wire at the joint, making it susceptible to failure due to 
> vibration; and a wire under load can heat to the point that the solder will 
> soften, which will also cause failure.
> 
> A properly-made crimp is the best way to make a safe connection.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Steve,

 

Check here,  http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=664

They have both sizes (3/8” & 5/16”) and a Mississauga office.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: May-25-16 13:32
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links you 
guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:

 

The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine compartment, to 
the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll have to do some 
boat surgery just to get at the switch in order to disconnect the battery 
cables, then remove them from the boat which would take I estimate, about a 
day. No kidding. I relearn the lesson of budgeting time appropriately for boat 
work every time I think I'm going to get something done quickly, it's never 
quick and the list of things that really need to be done, is long. The past two 
weeks I worked six days each and managed to launch the boat, step the mast and 
get three garden beds in at the house. I am not a person who has a lot of time 
on his hands. 

 

I appreciate that you guys are recommending the "right way" to do this, but I'm 
comfortable with the adapters. They are threaded, and not going anywhere - just 
like the nuts that are recommended. I've always found the clamp style battery 
connectors to be secure and that's how the boat has always been for 36 
years now. The laws of physics haven't changed though I appreciate that 
standards have, and that's fine. One day I'de like to embark on the rewiring 
project but that's what it's going to be: a project, not a "spring prep" task. 
Ideally, those projects take place in the off-season so that they don't eat 
into precious sailing time.

 

The boat is 1.5 hours away. That's three hours of driving (on a good day, 
traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount of 
work involved in removing them. Sure, I could buy new ones, but I still have to 
remove the old and install the new. 

 

So, I'm looking for the adapters. I'll dig through all the helpful posts once I 
have time to breathe.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7598 / Virus Database: 4568/12292 - Release Date: 05/25/16

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Fred, you are committed!
Sometimes I think I should be committed .. in that other less positive way.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

You’re lucky; my boat is 3-1/2 hours away…   :^)  I’ll be heading there later 
today, to launch tomorrow.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 25, 2016, at 11:32 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The boat is 1.5 hours away. That's three hours of driving (on a good day, 
> traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount 
> of work involved in removing them.

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi,

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links
you guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:

The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine
compartment, to the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll
have to do some boat surgery just to get at the switch in order to
disconnect the battery cables, then remove them from the boat which would
take I estimate, about a day. No kidding. I relearn the lesson of budgeting
time appropriately for boat work every time I think I'm going to get
something done quickly, it's never quick and the list of things that really
need to be done, is long. The past two weeks I worked six days each and
managed to launch the boat, step the mast and get three garden beds in at
the house. I am not a person who has a lot of time on his hands.

I appreciate that you guys are recommending the "right way" to do this, but
I'm comfortable with the adapters. They are threaded, and not going
anywhere - just like the nuts that are recommended. I've always found the
clamp style battery connectors to be secure and that's how the boat has
always been for 36 years now. The laws of physics haven't changed
though I appreciate that standards have, and that's fine. One day I'de like
to embark on the rewiring project but that's what it's going to be: a
project, not a "spring prep" task. Ideally, those projects take place in
the off-season so that they don't eat into precious sailing time.

The boat is *1.5 hours away*. That's three hours of driving (on a good day,
traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount
of work involved in removing them. Sure, I could buy new ones, but I still
have to remove the old and install the new.

So, I'm looking for the adapters. I'll dig through all the helpful posts
once I have time to breathe.

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

ABYC strictly prohibits solder as the sole means of connecting terminal to 
wire; you absolutely need to use a good mechanical connection.  Solder stiffens 
the wire at the joint, making it susceptible to failure due to vibration; and a 
wire under load can heat to the point that the solder will soften, which will 
also cause failure.

A properly-made crimp is the best way to make a safe connection.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 25, 2016, at 10:58 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On the same note, unless you have a professional crimper(which Fred likely 
> has), the end connectors need a good solder connection.  I have had great 
> results using the solder slug pellets sold at Gregg’s or also at Waytek. 
> 
> Here is a video describing the use of slug pellets (they are easy to use):
>   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

My guess/assumption is that any battery cables on a boat that have the 
old style automotive lead clamps are old cables that may not even be 
proper marine tinned cables. Lots of wiring on old boats, including C, 
was not tinned wire and needs to be replaced, even if it hasn't 
failed... yet.


Bill Bina


On 5/25/2016 11:58 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

Steve,

I agree with Fred.  Rather than dealing with the clamping lug adapters 
and clamping lugs on you cables, it is much better to use proper sized 
eyelets lugs.  It may actually cost you less to convert the cables, 
and likely lead to less troubles down the road.  An other advantage is 
that one can easily add an affordable MRBF terminal fuse block right 
on the battery (ABYC compliant).





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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Steve,

I agree with Fred.  Rather than dealing with the clamping lug adapters and 
clamping lugs on you cables, it is much better to use proper sized eyelets 
lugs.  It may actually cost you less to convert the cables, and likely lead to 
less troubles down the road.  An other advantage is that one can easily add an 
affordable MRBF terminal fuse block right on the battery (ABYC compliant).  

On the same note, unless you have a professional crimper(which Fred likely 
has), the end connectors need a good solder connection.  I have had great 
results using the solder slug pellets sold at Gregg’s or also at Waytek. 

Here is a video describing the use of slug pellets (they are easy to use):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs


Take a look at Gregg’s Marine Wire Supply.  They have good prices and 
selections and I think they will ship via postal mail.


Or at Waytek 

ring lugs
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1427/Eyelets/=5-16-

lug pellets
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1486/Solder/

MRBF
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1495/Fuse-Holders/=MRBF




-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 25, 2016, at 9:58 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 25 May 2016 08:50:52 -0500
> From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net <mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts
> Message-ID: <cc461ccf-4306-4cee-ad3f-0af2611ec...@postaudio.net 
> <mailto:cc461ccf-4306-4cee-ad3f-0af2611ec...@postaudio.net>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Steve ? if you don?t have any luck with the post adapters, by far the best 
> solution (even though it may be difficult) would be to have the correct ends 
> on the battery cables.  What size and length of cable are we talking about 
> here for the positive and negative runs?  I?d be happy to do the proper 
> crimps for you at no charge.
> 
> And whatever you do, do NOT use wing nuts, as mentioned before.  ABYC 
> requires you to use proper tools to tighten battery post nuts; I have yet to 
> see a proper tool for a wing nut?   :^)
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On May 25, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
>> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
>> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
>> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
>> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
>> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
>> 
>> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
>> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
>> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
>> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
>> 
>> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin 
>> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm 
>> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent 
>> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such 
>> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>> 
>> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
>> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
>> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll 
>> be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
>> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
>> 
>> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
>> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>> 
>> Again, this is what I am after:
>> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>>  
>> <https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130>
>>  
>> <https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>>  
>> <https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130>>
>> 
>> Any push in the right direction would be much apprec

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

These guys have a Canadian presence.

Here's your part:  http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=664

Here's the Canadian contact info:

Toll Free: 800–728–1742[image: Canadian flag]
E-mail: cdnsa...@quickcable.com

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 8:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
> and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
> the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.
>
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them
> was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while
> I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.
>
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
> could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
> and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
> it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
> stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
> pair.
>
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>
> Again, this is what I am after:
>
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Steve,

The part you listed is a 3/8” adapter – but if that is the one you need, there 
are a number of Acklands Grainger locations in the GTA – and throughout 
Southern Ontario, have you checked with them?

Paul Fountain
Perception II
1985 C 33-II k/cb
Port Credit Yacht Club

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2016 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.

When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I stood 
and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and wasted my 
time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.

I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing to 
use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
all ears though I want this done with.

Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach that, 
on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.

Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have it! 
They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.

Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new battery 
cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and removing the 
battery cables is a LOT of work.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

NO type of adapter  or work-around is any more secure, reliable, or ABYC 
compliant, than a wing nut on a threaded stud. A regular nut tightened 
by a wrench on a threaded stud is even better. Old school automotive 
type post and clamp connections have never been terribly reliable, 
either. I think new cable ends, or new cables with the correct terminal 
rings, are in order if reliability is desired.


Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[schiller via CnC-List]

Helicoil?  The 3/8 is a coarse thread (16 tpi).  I would assume that the 
5/16 is as well (18 tpi).  You should be able to pick up a thread repair 
kit at an auto parts store.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Washed, waxed and waiting for a Tuesday launch

On 5/25/2016 9:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing 
the business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive 
(and I was assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used 
ones on hand and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to 
make sure they fit the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery 
he had there (same guy I purchased my batteries from) and I thought I 
was good to go.


When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of 
them was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a 
batter while I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why 
he went ahead and wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time 
is just beyond me.


I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some 
tin foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. 
Sketchy. I'm willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to 
make it a permanent thing but I would rather not. I also don't know 
which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm all ears though I want this 
done with.


Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I 
could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which 
in and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex 
and UPS so it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at 
the door. I can't stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The 
adapters are typically $5 a pair.


Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't 
have it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.


Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping 
new battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool 
and removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.


Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto



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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Steve — if you don’t have any luck with the post adapters, by far the best 
solution (even though it may be difficult) would be to have the correct ends on 
the battery cables.  What size and length of cable are we talking about here 
for the positive and negative runs?  I’d be happy to do the proper crimps for 
you at no charge.

And whatever you do, do NOT use wing nuts, as mentioned before.  ABYC requires 
you to use proper tools to tighten battery post nuts; I have yet to see a 
proper tool for a wing nut…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 25, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
> 
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
> 
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
> around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing 
> to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
> would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
> all ears though I want this done with.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
> 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
> 
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
> 
> Again, this is what I am after:
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>  
> 
> 
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new 
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and 
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Search for 'stud to post conversion ' at elecdirect.com in mississauga.
They'll ship it same day. I buy from them quite often.

Ed
On May 25, 2016 9:39 AM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
> and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
> the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.
>
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them
> was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while
> I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.
>
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
> could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
> and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
> it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
> stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
> pair.
>
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>
> Again, this is what I am after:
>
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

look here:

http://excellence-peterbilt.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Catalogue-daccessoires-pour-batterie-Grote-2012.pdf

joel

On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 9:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
> and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
> the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.
>
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them
> was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while
> I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.
>
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
> could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
> and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
> it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
> stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
> pair.
>
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>
> Again, this is what I am after:
>
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Maybe I'm missing something here but why don't you simply change the ends of 
your battery cables to work with the studs?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On May 25, 2016, at 9:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
> 
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
> 
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
> around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing 
> to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
> would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
> all ears though I want this done with.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
> 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
> 
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
> 
> Again, this is what I am after:
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
> 
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new 
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and 
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.

When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was
stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I
stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.

I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.

Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
pair.

Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.

Again, this is what I am after:
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130

Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

If this is what you mean:
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/automotive/batteries-accessories/battery-maintenance-tools/battery-terminals/motomaster-marine-battery-terminal-0113508p.html?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice_medium=SearchVoice_source=RatingsAndReviews_content=Default

I need the opposite. I haven't found it on their site and won't have a
chance to check a store for a few days yet.

Thanks,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 12:01 PM, jhnelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe motormaster marine battery terminal $5.99 is exactly what you
> are looking for.
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

I believe motormaster marine battery terminal $5.99 is exactly what you are 
looking for.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Date: 2016-05-08  10:58 AM  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Paul Fountain <p...@seasource.ca> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts 


Steve,



I'd check Canadian Tire, they have a selection of terminals many that don't 
require swaging. May have a post conversion too



Sent from Outlook Mobile









On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:34 AM -0700, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:





Hi All,



I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. I 
didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries and now that they're 
on the boat I realize that the battery cables won't work with these batteries. 
I had made considerations
 about size, space, load etc but not the actual physical properties of the 
posts. (I made cardboard mockups and they fit just like so)



Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg





1. what the heck is that called?
2. where can I get them?!!!



I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that but I need 
it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - which is entirely in 
the realm of possibility.



I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I remove the 
cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely routed through the 
boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care to open.



Thanks,



Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto








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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I figured out what I'm looking for:
battery stud to top post adapter

When I search for that I find lots of places selling them.
It's probably good when you know what things are called :) (I do now)

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 12:54 PM, Stevan Plavsa 
wrote:

> Just so I'm clear, my battery terminals are the 1st type seen here on
> Trojan's spec sheet:
> http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T105_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf
>
> My battery cables have the big clamp style connectors. This looks perfect
> but the seller doesn't ship to Canada:
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Cable-threaded-5-16-battery-stud-to-top-post-adapter-conversion-5-16-5513-/391403629520
>
> Paul, I'de be surprised if Canadian Tire has something like that but I've
> been wrong before so I'll have a look, thanks for the tip.
>
> I use standard nuts and apply liberal amounts of torque and dielectric
> grease when making battery connections. As yet I haven't had issues with
> loose connections or corrosion.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Just so I'm clear, my battery terminals are the 1st type seen here on
Trojan's spec sheet:
http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T105_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf

My battery cables have the big clamp style connectors. This looks perfect
but the seller doesn't ship to Canada:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-Cable-threaded-5-16-battery-stud-to-top-post-adapter-conversion-5-16-5513-/391403629520

Paul, I'de be surprised if Canadian Tire has something like that but I've
been wrong before so I'll have a look, thanks for the tip.

I use standard nuts and apply liberal amounts of torque and dielectric
grease when making battery connections. As yet I haven't had issues with
loose connections or corrosion.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Stus-List Battery Posts

[James Nichols via CnC-List]

Wing nuts are fine for a battery that is Uninstalled on a regular basis.  As 
in,  you take it home when you aren't in the boat. 
But batteries that are permanently installed should have regular nuts that are 
torqued to the right specification. A proper maintenence schedule of the 
batteries should include slightly loosening and re-torquing the nuts once a 
month. However,  this paper days to re-torque when the terminal resistance gets 
to high.
Http://www.battcon.com/papersfinal2015/4%20Tressler%20Paper%202015.pdf
This re-torquing is why I prefer split lock washers inserted before the nut 
more than self locking nuts because the nylon inserts tend to reduce their 
holding power after a few times of being worked back and forth. 
The battery manufacture should have in their installation instructions the 
torque specification. 
Once torqued correctly,  you want to apply a no-ox grease. That spray on stuff 
from the auto store will work fine if you are inland,  but boats in the salt 
environment should get a heavy no-ox that you apply with a brush. 
JamesS/V Kristy 1971 C 39

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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Substituting a regular nut if that is your preference is easy enough. 
Wing nuts were standard issue for eons, although they are now frowned 
upon. I'm old, and so is my boat. :-)


Bill Bina


On 5/8/2016 11:19 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


Not that this would help Steve in any way, but using wing nuts for 
battery terminals is frowned upon by ABYC.


The battery cables should be attached to the terminals with normal 
nuts (preferably, self locking ones) and properly torqued in order to 
make a good connection. When you use wing nuts, and screw them on 
using your fingers, you don’t tighten them up sufficiently. If you use 
the pliers or a wrench, the whole idea of a wing nut is defeated.


I have seen a few V drop on a connection between the post and wire 
(connected using a wing nut).


Marek

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
Windows 10


*From: *BillBinaList via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent: *May 8, 2016 10:14
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc: *BillBinaList <mailto:billbinal...@gmail.com>
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

The Trojans I've seen have  a threaded hole in the top of the post. 
There is a double ended threaded lug that goes in that hole and then 
you use a wingnut to secure the cable. Marine battery cables generally 
have  a simple lug terminal that goes over a threaded terminal and is 
held with a wingnut. Any auto parts place would have what you need.


http://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Copper-Lugs/p_810730

http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-105/

Bill Bina


On 5/8/2016 9:33 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All,

I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart 
batteries. I didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries 
and now that they're on the boat I realize that the battery cables 
won't work with these batteries. I had made considerations about 
size, space, load etc but not the actual physical properties of the 
posts. (I made cardboard mockups and they fit just like so)


Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg

1. what the heck is that called?
2. where can I get them?!!!

I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that 
but I need it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - 
which is entirely in the realm of possibility.


I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I 
remove the cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely 
routed through the boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care 
to open.


Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto




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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Not that this would help Steve in any way, but using wing nuts for battery 
terminals is frowned upon by ABYC.

The battery cables should be attached to the terminals with normal nuts 
(preferably, self locking ones) and properly torqued in order to make a good 
connection. When you use wing nuts, and screw them on using your fingers, you 
don’t tighten them up sufficiently. If you use the pliers or a wrench, the 
whole idea of a wing nut is defeated.

I have seen a few V drop on a connection between the post and wire (connected 
using a wing nut).

Marek

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: BillBinaList via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: May 8, 2016 10:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: BillBinaList<mailto:billbinal...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

The Trojans I've seen have  a threaded hole in the top of the post.
There is a double ended threaded lug that goes in that hole and then you
use a wingnut to secure the cable. Marine battery cables generally have
a simple lug terminal that goes over a threaded terminal and is held
with a wingnut. Any auto parts place would have what you need.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Copper-Lugs/p_810730

http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-105/

Bill Bina


On 5/8/2016 9:33 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart
> batteries. I didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries
> and now that they're on the boat I realize that the battery cables
> won't work with these batteries. I had made considerations about size,
> space, load etc but not the actual physical properties of the posts.
> (I made cardboard mockups and they fit just like so)
>
> Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
> http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg
>
> 1. what the heck is that called?
> 2. where can I get them?!!!
>
> I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that
> but I need it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something -
> which is entirely in the realm of possibility.
>
> I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I
> remove the cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely
> routed through the boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care
> to open.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

The Trojans I've seen have  a threaded hole in the top of the post. 
There is a double ended threaded lug that goes in that hole and then you 
use a wingnut to secure the cable. Marine battery cables generally have  
a simple lug terminal that goes over a threaded terminal and is held 
with a wingnut. Any auto parts place would have what you need.


http://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Copper-Lugs/p_810730

http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-105/

Bill Bina


On 5/8/2016 9:33 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:

Hi All,

I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart 
batteries. I didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries 
and now that they're on the boat I realize that the battery cables 
won't work with these batteries. I had made considerations about size, 
space, load etc but not the actual physical properties of the posts. 
(I made cardboard mockups and they fit just like so)


Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg

1. what the heck is that called?
2. where can I get them?!!!

I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that 
but I need it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - 
which is entirely in the realm of possibility.


I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I 
remove the cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely 
routed through the boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care 
to open.


Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Steve,

I'd check Canadian Tire, they have a selection of terminals many that don't 
require swaging. May have a post conversion too

Sent from Outlook Mobile




On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:34 AM -0700, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
> wrote:

Hi All,

I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. I 
didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries and now that they're 
on the boat I realize that the battery cables won't work with these batteries. 
I had made considerations about size, space, load etc but not the actual 
physical properties of the posts. (I made cardboard mockups and they fit just 
like so)

Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg

1. what the heck is that called?
2. where can I get them?!!!

I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that but I need 
it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - which is entirely in 
the realm of possibility.

I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I remove the 
cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely routed through the 
boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care to open.

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Battery Posts

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart
batteries. I didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries and
now that they're on the boat I realize that the battery cables won't work
with these batteries. I had made considerations about size, space, load etc
but not the actual physical properties of the posts. (I made cardboard
mockups and they fit just like so)

Anyway, I need an adapter like this:
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg

1. what the heck is that called?
2. where can I get them?!!!

I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that but I
need it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - which is
entirely in the realm of possibility.

I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I remove
the cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely routed
through the boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care to open.

Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!