Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although, I am certain I have purchased some from folks that never knew the difference. But I have little tolerance for those that would intentionally misslead. So, I would add the R4B experience to your list of questions to ask regarding mods and condition, hope for the best, and decide how to make it fit into your personal collection goal. I find the Collins Collector group condition rating scale to be very helpful BTW. My guiding premise #1: A museum quality, 10/10 radio will come out of a sealed original box. All others, including perfect restorations, are somewhere down the scale. Just some thoughts for the soup Curt (the other Curt) KU8L Steve Wedge wrote: Fellow Drakesters - I bought an R-4B a few weeks ago, sort of sight-unseen, on the assurance that it was an 8 (I assumed out of 10, but I won't go there right now...) The receiver works very well and pulls in the signals as good as anything ever made. It transceives well with both my T-4X's. The audio sounds like some component values were tweaked, as it has a rich sound with more lows than I'm used to hearing. Here's the ugly part, and I know there are some of us who are more purists than others. I've been tending toward looking for rigs that haven't had a heavy hand taken to them - which this one has. The previous owner moved the INJ jack over to one of the SPARE locations (why? Don't know!) - shortening the shielded cable to the jack i the process. He drilled through the target that the factory provided on the front panel where the headphone jack used to be and put a pot with a Drake knob. This pot is used to vary that AGC delay. There is no longer a headphone jack on the side. He replaced all the RCA jacks with high-quality jacks. Unfortunately, it appears he used some sort of tuner cleaner on the bandswitch, but nothing seems to be broken. There are other changes that will be easier to undo - such as going back to the factory panel and cabinet screws. I'm looking for consensus from our ranks: would you try to put things back, leave it but clean it up, or leave it as is? I'm leaning toward selling it, as I found a better one at the hamfest. Moral of the story: when buying these on the ham websites - demand pictures of front, back and interior as a minimum, unless it's either ridiculously cheap or you know the seller! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] C4 Console
As long as we are on the C4, is there a source for a replacement digital clock? Mine is getting a tad noisy, and the second wheel decal with the numbers is coming apart. Otherwise the unit is perfect. K0GFY R. Hunter Ellington 303-454-0543/720-560-8139 P.O. Box 44 Larkspur, CO 80118 From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2011 7:40 PM Subject: [Drakelist] C4 Console Well since its quite I might as well start something. I have a C4 that I've had for 20 or so years, gave $50 for it back then, with all the hook ups. I've used all of it but mainly the rotor control and power strip, all the Drakes I have run through it. The rotor control has quit working, where would be the best place to start looking, I've changed it out to another controller and it works fine so it has to be in the console, any one have any idea's? Thanks Woody If you forward this e-mail, please deletethe forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. If you are including me in a multi-address email, please use the Bcc feature. In your email address which will be under the TO: block. It still sends emails the same but everyone does not see the other address only theirs. Thanks Woody ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Thanks to all for the comments. Most of you are more or less validating what I had already arrived at. I am thinking, at this point, of giving it a decent cleaning and alignment and selling it as it is - sort of like a Model A Ford with a manifold heater and an electric wiper. It wasn't really my intent to get to a museum piece anyway. The B that I intend to keep (the one I just bought Saturday) has its blemishes (a new email forthcoming...) but is basically un-messed-with. My concern is in getting all or most of my money back on the modified one. It is interesting in its own right, but my shack has limited space and so I'm not considering the changes made to the modified B to be significant enough to me to merit keeping it. One thing I will say about the modded B is that the previous owner did check the tubes in it and kept them the rig in good repair in that regard. I plan on hitting the underneath with plenty of Charlie's Soap in an attempt at drawing out some of the oils left in the wafers. Yes, both R-4B's and the new T-4X will be going to the kitchen sink and oven eventually. We've had that debate before ;-) 73, Steve, W1ES -Original Message- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net Sent: Sep 6, 2011 8:49 AM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although, I am certain I have purchased some from folks that never knew the difference. But I have little tolerance for those that would intentionally misslead. So, I would add the R4B experience to your list of questions to ask regarding mods and condition, hope for the best, and decide how to make it fit into your personal collection goal. I find the Collins Collector group condition rating scale to be very helpful BTW. My guiding premise #1: A museum quality, 10/10 radio will come out of a sealed original box. All others, including perfect restorations, are somewhere down the scale. Just some thoughts for the soup Curt (the other Curt) KU8L Steve Wedge wrote: Fellow Drakesters - I bought an R-4B a few weeks ago, sort of sight-unseen, on the assurance that it was an 8 (I assumed out of 10, but I won't go there right now...) The receiver works very well and pulls in the signals as good as anything ever made. It transceives well with both my T-4X's. The audio sounds like some component values were tweaked, as it has a rich sound with more lows than I'm used to hearing. Here's the ugly part, and I know there are some of us who are more purists than others. I've been tending toward looking for rigs that haven't had a heavy hand taken to them - which this one has. The previous owner moved the INJ jack over to one of the SPARE locations (why? Don't know!) - shortening the shielded cable to the jack i the process. He drilled through the target that the factory provided on the front panel where the headphone jack used to be and put a pot with a Drake knob. This pot is used to vary that AGC delay. There is no longer a headphone jack on the side. He replaced all the RCA jacks with high-quality jacks. Unfortunately, it appears he used some sort of tuner cleaner on the bandswitch, but nothing seems to be broken. There are other changes that will be easier to undo - such as going back to the factory panel and cabinet screws. I'm looking for consensus from our ranks: would you try to put things back, leave it but clean it up, or leave it as is? I'm leaning toward selling it, as I found a better one at the hamfest. Moral of the story: when buying these on the ham websites - demand pictures of front, back and interior as a minimum, unless it's either ridiculously cheap or you know the seller! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
[Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be Flitz-und-Dremel ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my new R-4B that has all the hallmarks of Pepsi Syndrome and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of bondo to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
Hi Steve, I have had some limited success with Naval jelly. It seems to stop and remove the rust pretty well. Like you said, it isn't going to look like new. Whatever damage the rust did will still be there (pitting, bare steel etc.). But, it is much cleaner looking after it is cleaned up. When I'm done, I just hit it with a coat of lacquer to keep air from getting to it again and starting the process all over. It does leave shiny copper where you use it, so it won't match the rest of the old copper. The only thing that will fix that is time. It isn't a perfect solution, but it is much better than rust and corrosion left unchecked. Bob K6GGO I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be Flitz-und-Dremel ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my new R-4B that has all the hallmarks of Pepsi Syndrome and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of bondo to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Steve, et al, Yes, it does well to be an informed shopper and ask the right questions, request pics, etc. but there is still the issue of the integrity of the seller. That is, if the seller is not honest you might not get honest answers. More than one auction and online seller has used pictures of mint gear when selling basket cases. Even with an honest seller, there is a limit as to how much risk reduction can be accomplished, and it isn't 99%, and attempting to do so can be problematic. When selling off my Collins gear, some of the questions posed to me were... Can you guarantee that the equipment was never in a smoking environment? Can you guarantee that no modifications were ever made to the receiver? Can assure me that no parts were ever replaced? If parts were replaced, can you guarantee they were Collins approved parts? Can you tell me which Collins field upgrades were done and which were not? For those that were done, were they done by a Collins authorized service center? And a few questions about where specific components were in particular locations/orientations. A good percentage of vintage, collectable equipment, has had multiple owners and generally there is little or no documentation as to the history of the equipment. Answering the above questions is virtually impossible, that is, for honest answers. I've been cheated on equipment that was working perfectly according to the seller. After purchase, I addressed the many issues and the seller merely said, Well, that's what the fellow said that sold it to me. I never plugged it in. Unless one inspects and tests a piece of equipment before purchase, there is always some chance that some work will be required to get it into the advertised condition. Hence, price negotiations should keep this in mind. Too, I and others have observed that the HF swap nets afford gear that is priced well below auction prices, with integrity of the sellers typically well above many of the online auction and ad sellers. In contrast, net participants are often well known and a poor reputation spreads quickly. However, trends are that people don't want to wait until a piece of equipment becomes available on the nets and are more than willing to spend top dollar on risky online auctions or purchases. In my first 25 years as a ham I never heard of a deal gone sour. Today, well, times are a changing... Enjoy that Drake gear. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: captcurt captc...@flash.net Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2011 8:33 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Thanks to all for the comments. Most of you are more or less validating what I had already arrived at. I am thinking, at this point, of giving it a decent cleaning and alignment and selling it as it is - sort of like a Model A Ford with a manifold heater and an electric wiper. It wasn't really my intent to get to a museum piece anyway. The B that I intend to keep (the one I just bought Saturday) has its blemishes (a new email forthcoming...) but is basically un-messed-with. My concern is in getting all or most of my money back on the modified one. It is interesting in its own right, but my shack has limited space and so I'm not considering the changes made to the modified B to be significant enough to me to merit keeping it. One thing I will say about the modded B is that the previous owner did check the tubes in it and kept them the rig in good repair in that regard. I plan on hitting the underneath with plenty of Charlie's Soap in an attempt at drawing out some of the oils left in the wafers. Yes, both R-4B's and the new T-4X will be going to the kitchen sink and oven eventually. We've had that debate before ;-) 73, Steve, W1ES -Original Message- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net Sent: Sep 6, 2011 8:49 AM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although,
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I wonder if anyone has ever tried a product called 'Rub-N-Buff'?? It's a waxy substance that is used to 'restore' metallic objects, and comes in 'Antique Brass', 'OLD COPPER', Silver, etc., etc.. It looks great, but I don't know how well it would fare under hot chassis operation. When you buff it out, it is extremely thin and may work. One of these days I'm going to find the time to try it out! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Steve Wedge wrote: I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be Flitz-und-Dremel ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my new R-4B that has all the hallmarks of Pepsi Syndrome and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of bondo to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I have not tried it on a Drake chassis, but have had good performance with a product called Nevrdull. It comes in a can and is cotton wadding with some sort of solvent on it. It is non abrasive, and does a great job on silverware and Harley exhaust pipes. Steve WA9JML ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Service
Hello to the group. John Kriner sent me an e-mail advising that the R. L. Drake Co. has discontinued repair service of the PRN-1000, the SW-1, the SW-2, and the SW-8 receivers. I didn't check, but I assume this information is also on their web-site. 73, Bill___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
Thanks, Bob. I'm going to experiment a little with this R-4B that I'll be selling. It will be getting disassembled this evening prior to its bath. Before I dunk it (actually I don't dunk them - but they DO get wet!) I'm going to trace all the mods that the PO did and mark up a copy of the R-4B schematic. Then I'll attack the scabs on the chassis (there are a bunch that the PO shellacked, it appears) with jelly and flitz and see what they look like. I just got done taking readings on all bands (and found that 10m is set up for the bottom instead of 28.5!) prior to disassembly so that I can compare performance after the cleaning and alignment. I'll keep y'all posted. Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Robert Fish rwf...@comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 1:49 PM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration Hi Steve, I have had some limited success with Naval jelly. It seems to stop and remove the rust pretty well. Like you said, it isn't going to look like new. Whatever damage the rust did will still be there (pitting, bare steel etc.). But, it is much cleaner looking after it is cleaned up. When I'm done, I just hit it with a coat of lacquer to keep air from getting to it again and starting the process all over. It does leave shiny copper where you use it, so it won't match the rest of the old copper. The only thing that will fix that is time. It isn't a perfect solution, but it is much better than rust and corrosion left unchecked. Bob K6GGO I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be Flitz-und-Dremel ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my new R-4B that has all the hallmarks of Pepsi Syndrome and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of bondo to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
- Original Message - From: Steve Berg wa9...@tbc.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 11:05 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration I have not tried it on a Drake chassis, but have had good performance with a product called Nevrdull. It comes in a can and is cotton wadding with some sort of solvent on it. It is non abrasive, and does a great job on silverware and Harley exhaust pipes. Steve WA9JML I have no idea what is in Nevrdull, its MSDS is probably on the web. However, most corrosion removers contain either oxalic acid or phosphoric acid as the active ingredient. They may also contain a surfactant or detergent and a polish of some sort. The polish can be very fine rouge or something softer like powdered pumice or French chalk. Phosphoric acid is also found in many bathroom tile cleaners and mold removers. These will remove oxidation about as well as the more specialized products. While its possible some cleaners contain other chemicals these two reducing agents seem to be the most popular. One problem with copper plated chassis is that they may have been coated with a lacquer. If the lacquer coating flakes off for some reason it will allow the unprotected copper to oxidize plus the oxidation can migrate under the remaining lacquer. Too much of any cleaner can begin to remove the plating. I think the main purpose of the copper plating is to reduce surface resistance. I have no idea of how effective this is in practice. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Yep - just want to make it nice. I guess I'll find out if it helps me get more for it. At this point, I just don't want to sell at a loss. I still want to clean it and align it - just because I enjoy doing that. I just won't go to great lengths. I still need to figure out what the extra jacks are for (and why he moved the INJ jack - which defies all logic!). My new R-4B will get more TLC. That's the one with the large corrosion spot up by the PTO. It was fun seeing what the replacement of two weak tubes has done for it already! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 8:49 AM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although, I am certain I have purchased some from folks that never knew the difference. But I have little tolerance for those that would intentionally misslead. So, I would add the R4B experience to your list of questions to ask regarding mods and condition, hope for the best, and decide how to make it fit into your personal collection goal. I find the Collins Collector group condition rating scale to be very helpful BTW. My guiding premise #1: A museum quality, 10/10 radio will come out of a sealed original box. All others, including perfect restorations, are somewhere down the scale. Just some thoughts for the soup Curt (the other Curt) KU8L Steve Wedge wrote: Fellow Drakesters - I bought an R-4B a few weeks ago, sort of sight-unseen, on the assurance that it was an 8 (I assumed out of 10, but I won't go there right now...) The receiver works very well and pulls in the signals as good as anything ever made. It transceives well with both my T-4X's. The audio sounds like some component values were tweaked, as it has a rich sound with more lows than I'm used to hearing. Here's the ugly part, and I know there are some of us who are more purists than others. I've been tending toward looking for rigs that haven't had a heavy hand taken to them - which this one has. The previous owner moved the INJ jack over to one of the SPARE locations (why? Don't know!) - shortening the shielded cable to the jack i the process. He drilled through the target that the factory provided on the front panel where the headphone jack used to be and put a pot with a Drake knob. This pot is used to vary that AGC delay. There is no longer a headphone jack on the side. He replaced all the RCA jacks with high-quality jacks. Unfortunately, it appears he used some sort of tuner cleaner on the bandswitch, but nothing seems to be broken. There are other changes that will be easier to undo - such as going back to the factory panel and cabinet screws. I'm looking for consensus from our ranks: would you try to put things back, leave it but clean it up, or leave it as is? I'm leaning toward selling it, as I found a better one at the hamfest. Moral of the story: when buying these on the ham websites - demand pictures of front, back and interior as a minimum, unless it's either ridiculously cheap or you know the seller! 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. - Joe Walsh If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
I have not tried it, but seem to remember a discussion of Kroil oil as loosening the rust spots so you can gently clean them away. Not sure if this was just talk or actual results. Anyone tried it? 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Tue, 9/6/11, Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net wrote: From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Subject: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2011, 12:39 PM I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be Flitz-und-Dremel ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my new R-4B that has all the hallmarks of Pepsi Syndrome and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of bondo to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
- Original Message - From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: captc...@flash.net; Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 3:43 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Yep - just want to make it nice. I guess I'll find out if it helps me get more for it. At this point, I just don't want to sell at a loss. I still want to clean it and align it - just because I enjoy doing that. I just won't go to great lengths. I still need to figure out what the extra jacks are for (and why he moved the INJ jack - which defies all logic!). My new R-4B will get more TLC. That's the one with the large corrosion spot up by the PTO. It was fun seeing what the replacement of two weak tubes has done for it already! 73, Its always a PITA when someone has installed unknown mods. I really don't know the best technique for the chaissis. My T-4B is reasonably clean and my TR-4 is very nice looking but the R-4B is pretty stained inside. All work fine. When I worked for Hewlett-Packard a million years ago we washed old incoming equipment. That works fine for getting dirt off but the chassis were all aluminum so no corrosion. There is a cleaner called Barkeeper's Friend available at hardawre and groceries that I've had good luck with in cleaning steel and brass materials. There is another brand, Zud, which I think is identical. Both have oxalic acid. The cleaners with phosphoric acid like Naval Jelly and tile cleaners seem harder to control. I am mainly worried about getting too much moisture inside IF cans and similar places. I suspect you should be careful of investing too much time and effort in something you want to get rid of. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
My experience is...yes, you can clean it with various stuffbut if the plating is gone...you really just have to live with it. If it's gone I have found no way to improve the looks. I just happened onto a B line with virtually no spotting. But I have another that is moderate...they both work the same. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net; Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2011 7:14 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration I have not tried it, but seem to remember a discussion of Kroil oil as loosening the rust spots so you can gently clean them away. Not sure if this was just talk or actual results. Anyone tried it? 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Tue, 9/6/11, Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net wrote: From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Subject: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2011, 12:39 PM I am usually amazed at how well the copper chassis clean up with simple aids like 409 and Charlie's Soap (wonderful stuff only available in my area of NC). I've seen the Flitz-and-Dremel (or should that be Flitz-und-Dremel ;-) ) technique on WB4HFN's website and am still a little disappointed in how a larger area of corrosion will look after this process. I've seen some hobbyist paints, as well as Krylon, offered in a copper color. Has anyone tried any of these? I'm just looking for something that will mask the ugliness somewhat and realize it will never perfectly match. There's an area about 1 x 2 near the PTO of my new R-4B that has all the hallmarks of Pepsi Syndrome and I'd like to both protect and dress-up the area a little. Again, not going to make it a museum piece - just looking for ways of doing the equivalent of bondo to take the ugly away... 73, Steve ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration
If its rusted the copper is gone anyway, clean away the rust the best you can with a Dremel tool and scotch brite. Then coat the chassis with polyurethane, worked for me. 73, Gary ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.
I've put a couple of drops of WD-40 down the hole after bending one screwdriver trying to get the setscrew backed out. Has anyone used anything else to free a stuck screw? I'm now wondering if the WD-40 might not swell the plastic, exacerbating the problem... 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Exactly what I'm thinking, Richard. Now the PTO knob is stuck as I can't get the screw out. This is starting to look like a quickie clean and get it out the door. I did dig into the underside this evening and made some interesting findings. The PO ran shielded cable all over the place for AF signals. The INJ jack is a low-level audio output. The ANTI VOX seems to be still used for the purpose, but now has shielded cable and is coupled to the speaker output by a 43k resistor. The headphone circuit was completely removed. There are extra capacitors everywhere. The funny thing is, it doesn't really sound all that much better than my stone-stock R-4B. The receiver works very well and only needs a touch-up. It takes gargantuan signal levels to get it to read S9, but it's probably the receive level and AGC that are out, as I can hear 0.1 uV signals on all bands. I'm figuring I'll get my money back... 73, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 7:16 PM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net; captc...@flash.net; Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? - Original Message - From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: captc...@flash.net; Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 3:43 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Yep - just want to make it nice. I guess I'll find out if it helps me get more for it. At this point, I just don't want to sell at a loss. I still want to clean it and align it - just because I enjoy doing that. I just won't go to great lengths. I still need to figure out what the extra jacks are for (and why he moved the INJ jack - which defies all logic!). My new R-4B will get more TLC. That's the one with the large corrosion spot up by the PTO. It was fun seeing what the replacement of two weak tubes has done for it already! 73, Its always a PITA when someone has installed unknown mods. I really don't know the best technique for the chaissis. My T-4B is reasonably clean and my TR-4 is very nice looking but the R-4B is pretty stained inside. All work fine. When I worked for Hewlett-Packard a million years ago we washed old incoming equipment. That works fine for getting dirt off but the chassis were all aluminum so no corrosion. There is a cleaner called Barkeeper's Friend available at hardawre and groceries that I've had good luck with in cleaning steel and brass materials. There is another brand, Zud, which I think is identical. Both have oxalic acid. The cleaners with phosphoric acid like Naval Jelly and tile cleaners seem harder to control. I am mainly worried about getting too much moisture inside IF cans and similar places. I suspect you should be careful of investing too much time and effort in something you want to get rid of. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.
Drill out the set screw and re-tap the knob once its removed ... 73. Gary___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] [DrakeRadio] R-7 SSB audio distortion
Here is what John Kriner, via Bill Frost, has to say on the R-7 AGC alignment, reprinted with permission: --- Boy, this is a lot to digest. But I'll try to answer the questions as I see them AGC pedestal is left all the way CW. I have argued with some folks who claim it must be re-adjusted. But this is the way I have always left it. And the S-meter calibration turns out to be perfect, and S+N/N far exceeds the specifications. 10dB drop in generator level equals an exact 10dB drop on the 'S' meter. The TR-7 'S' meter can be adjusted for the same exact readings as the R-7. The TR-7 requires some additional 'fiddling', but you can achieve the exact same results without any type of compromise. The results in the AGC 'F' mode of the R-7 are really normal. I can think of very few uses for this setting, and maybe someone with the smarts could change the T C for more acceptable results. I think I just got it: The IF GAIN is being used to establish the AGC pedestal! Does that make sense? Yes, it does. --- Thanks to John for the helpful comments. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...
This is a fairly common problem. The strike voltage of the neon lamp tends to drift upward with age. The transistor used by Drake to switch the voltage does not have a high breakdown voltage so Drake used a resistor voltage drop to reduce the available voltage to barely enough to strike the lamp. You have three options: 1) Replace the lamp with a fresh one and wait for it to drift upward (that could buy you a year or many years). 2) Reduce the value of the dropping resistor and take a chance that the transistor won't break down under the extra voltage present. 3) Upgrade the transistor to a high voltage rating device and get rid of the dropping resistor entirely (permanent fix and what Drake should have done in my opinion). Dennis AE6C On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 8:01 PM, Fred or Ski wb8...@frontier.com wrote: I have an intermittant PTO indicator lamp on my R4B when using it with my T4XC. It may work all night, then sometimes it will go out and won't come on with whatever you do to switch the PTO in use. In the R4B schematic, it shows Q10 is a switch that is turned off when the transmitter is used for freq control, by a negative voltage on the INJ line to the receiver. I suspect either the transistor or the neon bulb indicator. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to fix it. Thanks to all. 73, WB8YXI-Ski ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...
Clean adj the cable/jack for the PTO control signal on the two units. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Fred or Ski wb8...@frontier.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2011 11:05 pm Subject: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator... I have an intermittant PTO indicator lamp on my R4B when using it with my T4XC. It may work all night, then sometimes it will go out and won't come on with whatever you do to switch the PTO in use. In the R4B schematic, it shows Q10 is a switch that is turned off when the transmitter is used for freq control, by a negative voltage on the INJ line to the receiver. I suspect either the transistor or the neon bulb indicator. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to fix it. Thanks to all. 73, WB8YXI-Ski ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
