Re: [Drakelist] MN2700 knobs

[Barnhart David]

Are the MN2700 knobs the same as used on the MN-2000?  If so I have a donor 
MN-2000 with everything except the bandswitch knob.  Let me know if what I have 
will work for you.

73
Dave Barnhart
K7RPM


> On Oct 1, 2018, at 9:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:
> 
> Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
>   drakelist@zerobeat.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>   http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>   drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Spare parts (Evert Bakker)
>   2. Drake 1A (Dale Parfitt)
>   3. Re: Spare parts (Jim Shorney)
>   4. Re: Spare parts (Joe Pyles)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:44:00 +0200
> From: "Evert Bakker" 
> To: 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: <004701d458ed$8e185600$aa490200$@pa2kw.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now. 
> 
> But even time cracks quality.
> 
> The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
> 
> Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
> 
> 
> 
> 73's, Evert PA2KW 
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 15:28:10 -0400
> From: "Dale Parfitt" 
> To: 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 1A
> Message-ID: <039501d458f3$b9811a10$2c834e30$@frontier.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have a beautiful 1A that I am selling. After restoration,  one of the
> nicest I have seen. Powder coated  cabinet, polished aluminum front piece,
> modern  grounded power cord.  Has the calibrator, print of the manual. Any
> serious offers considered.
> 
> http://www.parelectronics.com/vintage-drake-1a.php
> 
> Dale W4OP
> 
> 
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 18:34:21 -0500
> From: "Jim Shorney" 
> To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: <20180930233424.8259840...@mail02.inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> You probably won't find any unless someone has a parts donor unit. You will
> either have to fabricate your own, or pehaps an eBay searcy for "lever knob"
> under Consumer Electronics will turn up something from home audio units that
> will work. I see several from Pioneer, Sony, Craig, etc., that look promising.
> They won't be black though
> 
> 73
> 
> -Jim
> NU0C
> 
> 
> On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:44:00 +0200, Evert Bakker wrote:
> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now. 
>> 
>> But even time cracks quality.
>> 
>> The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>> 
>> Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 73's, Evert PA2KW 
>> 
>> 
> 
> --
> The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
> relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2018 10:42:15 -0400
> From: Joe Pyles 
> To: "Evert Bakker" ,
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> 
> Fender Telecaster guitars have a similar switch to choose different 
> pickups and the knob looks like it would fit the Drake tuners. The 
> part number is 099-4936-000. I have ordered a few to see if they will 
> fit. If you search the Fender part number several places sell the 
> switch caps. I should get them any day from The Guitar Center and 
> will let you know if they fit the tuner switches.
> 
> 73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
> 
> 
> At 02:44 PM 9/30/2018, Evert Bakker wrote:
>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>boundary="=_NextPart_000_0048_01D458FE.51AB5F30"
>> Content-Language: nl
>> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
>> But even time cracks quality.
>> The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>> Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>> 
>> 73's, Evert PA2KW
>> ___
>> Drakelist mailing list
>> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelis

Re: [Drakelist] R-4C IC Product Detector

[David Assaf III]

Byron: we;lcome to the adventure!

The 8 KC front end filter is very broad.  The previous owner must have been
an AM SWL?

Please read Sherwood's and Inrad's info on the roofing filter for the
 radio.  The r4c is the radio where the concept of the roofing filter was
made back in the 1970's.  It transforms a so so radio to a great one.
 Drake's r4c, stock, was actually a step backwards in performance.
 Many still claim the B line superior.  Modified, as you are doing will
erase that doubt.

The power supply is a necessary mod.  drake simply had one big power supply
and when they needed a different voltage they used large resistors.  With
age, these resistors change and you end up not knowing the actual voltage.

The audio and product detectors are a small increment in the performance of
the radio.  Please consider Sherwood's third mixer mod.  I chased the noise
in mine till I read his article and it was the second best thing I did
for mine (the roofing filters were the first).  Cannot tell you the number
of third mixer tubes I tried to make the receiver quiet,. Drake had three
or four third mixers in the radio.  They were aware of the noise,
technology was not there to fix it.  It is now.

I would not pull off the 10 volts on the Balanced modulator.  I would do
the 12 volts you need from a separate regulator at the power supply.  Look
at Sherwood's power supply mod.  It is all you need for any mod in the
radio.  The solid state mixer noted above will need that 12 volts as well.

One last thing if you do CW.  Look into the AGC mod offered by Sherwood.
 It is well worth the considerable trouble to do.  Good Luck!

David Assaf, III
W5XU



On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 8:53 PM, Byron Tatum  wrote:

> Hello-
> I am in the process of installing some upgrades in my R-4C, an early
> one (18K SN range) that has the 6HS6's. The INRAD 8 KC 5645 KC first
> IF filter was in when I bought it, so at least I have a little bit of
> protection for that second mixer.
> I upgraded the power supply with the 7812 regulator and better
> electrolytic caps all around, per WB4HFN info combined with Sherwood info.
> Today I built the IC product detector using a TL442CN, installed it
> and appears all is well. I thought I would post this as I believe the
> TL442CN is an obsolete device. The TI SN76514 is an identical chip, it was
> used in the Mihuzo 9 Mhz SSB boards as the balanced modulator. One thing, I
> am powering mine fom the +10 VDC that is provided for BFO, as that terminal
> was very near the module. Is itnecessary to have the full 12 VDC on the
> chip?
> I wish to do the sudio amp upgrade, mostly to get rid of the heat, but
> also to have a little better audio. I am thinking of going with the LM383T
> as done by Sherwood, but saw a video of an R-4C sporting a "D-Labs" audio
> upgrade. I cannot find any additional info on this. Thought I would ask for
> advice before I proceeded with the audio changes.
> Thanks, Byron WA5THJ
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
>
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7. Recommendations?

[David Assaf III]

agree with the comments.  At hamfests a great one goes for 650 to 750 with
all the filters.  Ebay is all over the place.  Might want to also try eham.
 Good luck and welcome back!
David Assaf, III
W5XU



On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 4:57 PM, Mark Nace  wrote:

> Good for you Tom !
> I would look for a later serial number TR-7, with the "A" type features.
> It may
> even be labeled a TR-7A.  Anyway, it is a great rig.  I started with a
> used one
> about 26 years ago, and mine is still going strong (a little TLC over the
> years
> has kept it that way!).  the serial number is in the 8600's, and had the
> "A"
> items already in it.  The ones on ebay right now are pretty neat, but one
> looks
> like it is a lower serial number.  They are VERY functional rigs actually,
> and
> don't have all the bells and whistles of todays rigs, but most of that
> stuff
> doesn't have much to do with catching the rare DX, or doing a great job of
> constesting !!!
>
> Best 73
> Mark
> N5KAE
>
>
>
> - Original Message 
> > From: Tom Branton 
> > To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
> > Sent: Fri, March 22, 2013 4:43:25 PM
> > Subject: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7.
> >Recommendations?
> >
> >
> >
> > Good afternoon everyone,
> >
> > After a long absence from ham radio I am excited about re-entering the
> hobby
> >and I am interested in acquiring a TR-7.  It was my dream radio when
> career took
> >me away from the hobby.
> >
> > Any words of wisdom you may have about the TR-7 would be most welcome.
> > Is there anything I should particularly look for in a potential
> purchase? Any
> >thoughts
> > on what a TR-7 and power supply in good condition would cost? There is
> what
> >appears to be a very nice one listed on EBay at
> > the moment.
> >
> > Thanks and 73's
> >
> > Tom
> > Ex WD5DFE
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Drakelist mailing list
> > Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> >
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Questioin re: Drake 2NT final Tube replacement

[David Assaf III]

Many forget the sweep tubes were used as the horizontal output tubes in TV
sets.  They ran hours at max conditions.  Unfortunately when they are used
in ham sets, the ability to exceed the grid and plate currents when tuning
gave these fine devices a bad wrap.  If you follow the book and tune as
asked, they will last a long time.
As to your question, the bias for the tubes are manufacturer sensitive.  As
Drake used mostly Sylvania tubes, they suggest to reuse the same.
David Assaf, III
W5XU



On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 1:40 PM, Charles Ring  wrote:

>  I've always questioned Drake's decision to use the 6HF5 in that
> transmitter. Sweep tubes made some sense for SSB at the time, but a CW
> transmitter meant for beginners? A 6146 would have been so much more
> forgiving and reliable.
>
> 73 de W3NU
>
>
>
> On 3/21/2013 1341, Curt Gidding wrote:
>
>  The manual suggests that the final 6HF5 be replaced with the same
> manufacturer tube as
> is in the xmtr.  How critical is this?  Is there one manufacturer that is
> better?  Tnx for your
> reply.
>
>  Curt Gidding  KC9UNL
>
>
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
>
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] T4XC

[David Adcock]

I cleaned the mode switch contacts and tried exchanging the injector
cable and still no receive in XMTR mode. Thanks for all your tips.

Dave

DCA iPad

On Dec 30, 2012, at 6:54 PM, Al Parker  wrote:

> Hi agn,
>Well, sounds like possibly a control problem, maybe in a switch, maybe in 
> a cable or cable connection.  If not that, then it sure looks like the T4XC's 
> PTO isn't putting out.
>When you're in RCVR posn you do get xmtr output, as the rcvr's supplying 
> the PTO for both.  In the other posn's the xmtr is supplying it's own PTO 
> signal.  Now that you can't hear anything in the rcvr when you're using the 
> xmtr PTO, it's the xmtr PTO bad, or a connection between it and the rcvr.
>When you cleaned things, did you get the cables back in the right places?  
> Probably not that as you're getting the rcvr PTO to the xmtr OK.  How did you 
> clean the switches?
> 73,
> Al
>
>
> On 12/30/2012 5:23 PM, David Adcock wrote:
>> Hi Al,
>>
>> No receive either. When it did work a few weeks ago receive was much 
>> degraded.
>>
>> Dave
>> W9DCA
>>
>> DCA iPad
>>
>> On Dec 30, 2012, at 4:19 PM, Al Parker  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Dave,
>>>Does the R4- receive when the XMTR mode is selected?  If not, it sounds 
>>> like the PTO in the T4X-C isn't operating.
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Al, W8UT
>>> www.boatanchors.org
>>> www.hammarlund.info
>>>
>>> "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
>>> worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
>>> Ratty, to Mole
>>>
>>> On 12/30/2012 5:07 PM, David Adcock wrote:
>>>> My T4XC will transceive with RCVR selected but, will not in separate
>>>> or in XMTR modes. I've cleaned switches and checked tubes for power.
>>>> Anyone have any tips on this issue?
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>> DCA iPad
>>>>
>>>> ___
>>>> Drakelist mailing list
>>>> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>>>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>>>>
>>

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] T4XC

[David Adcock]

Cleaned the the mode switch contacts and measured -25 volts at the TX
injector port.

Dave

DCA iPad

On Dec 30, 2012, at 7:30 PM, Gary Poland  wrote:

 Check for a –24 volts at the T-4XC INJ jack when in XMTR, that voltage is
what allows the T-4XC to take control.

73, Gary
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] T4XC

[David Adcock]

Hi Al,

No receive either. When it did work a few weeks ago receive was much degraded.

Dave
W9DCA

DCA iPad

On Dec 30, 2012, at 4:19 PM, Al Parker  wrote:

> Hi Dave,
>Does the R4- receive when the XMTR mode is selected?  If not, it sounds 
> like the PTO in the T4X-C isn't operating.
> 73,
>
> Al, W8UT
> www.boatanchors.org
> www.hammarlund.info
>
> "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
> worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
> Ratty, to Mole
>
> On 12/30/2012 5:07 PM, David Adcock wrote:
>> My T4XC will transceive with RCVR selected but, will not in separate
>> or in XMTR modes. I've cleaned switches and checked tubes for power.
>> Anyone have any tips on this issue?
>>
>> Dave
>> DCA iPad
>>
>> ___
>> Drakelist mailing list
>> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>>

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] T4XC

[David Adcock]

My T4XC will transceive with RCVR selected but, will not in separate
or in XMTR modes. I've cleaned switches and checked tubes for power.
Anyone have any tips on this issue?

Dave
DCA iPad

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 54, Issue 10 TR 3

[David Assaf III]

Incidentially and as you may wish, there is an old circuit that is simple
and effective to add CW break in for a tr3.  Did it 3 times and worked very
well.  I beleive it is an old article in CQ mag.

On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 9:34 PM, Bill skidmore  wrote:

> The comment about the sideband filter in the TR 3 is not to be passed over
> lightly. If you have a problem there, you are in deep trouble. I carefully
> took the surrounding shield off my problem filter and repaired it, then put
> it together again. I was lucky I didn't break something.
>
> All the other comments, concerning historic equipment, TR 3 as a poor CW
> rig, etc, are spot on.
> Buy it anyway! These things keep us from going brain dead using multi-band
> CB equipment.
>
> 73, Bill, VE3AUI
> On 2012-12-12 3:28 AM,  wrote:
>
>> Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
>> drakelist@zerobeat.net
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1. Re: TR-3 (Al Parker)
>>2. Re: TR-3 (Lee Hiers)
>>3. Re: TR-3 (John King)
>>4. Re: TR-3 (David Assaf III)
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2012 14:17:35 -0500
>> From: Al Parker 
>> To: lane denune 
>> Cc: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
>> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
>> Message-ID: <50c786cf.60...@ec.rr.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>> Hi,
>> The deal "killer" in the TR-3 is the SB filter.  They often go
>> bad on
>> one sideband, still get some thru, but way low.  Check output on 20m and
>> on 15m, they should be close, and above 125 watts out.  Actual value
>> could be more (hopefully), but will depend upon alignment.  Normally 15m
>> output will be a little less than on 20m, but not more than say 20 watts
>> less, if the final tubes are reasonably good.  You should be able to
>> load up to about the same plate current on both bands.
>> Other than that possible problem, the TR-3 can be a good rig for
>> SSB
>> operation, usually at a good price, also.  S-meter often seems stingy,
>> just turn up the AF gain if needed, signals are there.  Definitely check
>> out the p.s. and replace the bias filter cap at least.
>> 73,
>>
>> Al, W8UT
>> www.boatanchors.org
>> www.hammarlund.info
>>
>> "There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
>> worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
>> Ratty, to Mole
>>
>> On 12/11/2012 12:09 AM, lane denune wrote:
>> >   Hi Guys ; Considering a fully functional TR-3 from the owner of 15yrs.
>> > I've been invited to try it on the air at his shack before I take it.
>> > Being a relative newbie to Drake equipment, is there any particular
>> > areas to consider with the TR3 other than the obvious and general
>> > operating condition?
>> >   I don't recall anything negative in particular about this vintage
>> > radio. I will upgrade the power supply and finals..Anything come to
>> mind?
>> >  Thanks 73 de n8aft.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> > Drakelist mailing list
>> > Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2012 15:12:38 -0500
>> From: Lee Hiers 
>> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
>> Message-ID:
>> > 7nzbfs+eqfb4pgsgngmzow8jodkwph5dhyxcvfk8hx...@mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 12:00 PM,
>> 
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Being a relative newbie to Drake equipment, is there any particular areas
>> > to consider with the TR3 other than the obvious and general operating
>> > condition?
>> > ?I don't recall anything negative in particular about this vintage
&

Re: [Drakelist] TR-3

[David Assaf III]

Hear, Hear!.  I agree with John.  What  we do with these old radios vary
with the number owned and sold: endless.  But for me, I enjoy the
simplicity and the warmth that using a piece of history gives me.  Have a
few radios, the old tube ones are the favorite.
I say go for it and fix it and clean it and learn to love it.



On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 5:43 PM, John King  wrote:

> Should you buy a TR3? I think the answer should be given after determining
> what he plans to do with it. One reason to purchase a Drake TR3 is the
> historic value to the hobby.I have been licensed for almost 54 years and
> have grown with the hobby from 6AG7/807 tube transmitter and Hallicrafters
> S40A receiver. They were wonderful for the purpose for which they were
> built and intended to been used. They are not my gear that I use regularly,
> but they bring back wonderful memories. I have one hundred of more radios
> from 1940 until present. I am NOT A COLLECTOR but I accumulate tube type
> radios of all manufacturers because of what they were and what they still
> are. Swan was pioneer in the transceiver field and did a great job from the
> SW 175 and continued for many years, even after being bought out by Cubic
> Communications.
>
> The TR3 is historic because it was R.L. Drake's FIRST transceiver. I HAVE
> A TR3 THAT I BOUGHT REASONABLY OFF EBAY IN NON WORKING CONDITION AND VERY
> DIRTY. Today it is a nice looking and working radio. Do I use it
> everydayNO!! WHY? I have the first model receiver that Drake built, the
> Drake 1A serial number 518 of 1000 built. When built, it was arguably the
> best receiver made in its' day( I also own a Collins 75A1, 75A2, and 75A4,
> for comparison). l am not bragging, just pointing out my perspective. I own
> a Drake 2A. Drake 2B, TR4 (that I use almost daily for net operation, R4,
> T4X,R4B,R4C,and T4XC and a great Drake L4B amp. No, they are not the
> $10,000.00+, Icom or the latest Kenwood, Orion or other solid state rig.
>
> The TR3 basically popularized the use of transceivers. There are many hams
> today who may not be able to operate separates. Other companies had gotten
> into the transceiver production, but not as affordable and basic as the TR3.
>
> My suggestion is that if you expect an almost "owner inability" rig to
> repair, digital readout with 3,000 memories, 65 push buttons, DON'T BUY the
> TR3, BUT "SOME DAY' you might wish you could find one to buy.
>
> This is not intended to start a THREAD, it is just my opinion. If anyone
> wants to attack my opinion, don't bother the reflector with it, feel free
> to reply DIRECTLY to me.  73, John, K5PGW
>
>
>
>  
>  *To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 11, 2012 12:12 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
>
> On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 12:00 PM, 
> 
> > wrote:
>
> Being a relative newbie to Drake equipment, is there any particular areas
> to consider with the TR3 other than the obvious and general operating
> condition?
> ?I don't recall anything negative in particular about this vintage radio.
>
>
> For one, it's a terrible CW radio...if that matters to you.
>
> 73 de Lee
> --
> Lee Hiers, AA4GA
> www.aa4ga.com
>
> Submit your totals to the unofficial QRP DXCC standings - go to *
> http://www.aa4ga.com/p/qrp-dxcc.html* for more info!
>
>
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
>
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
>


-- 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Please unsubscribe me from this list

[David Goncalves]

Yeah, this email was the last straw for me as well - unsubscribe me too.

Gaddamn hamfists mashing knobs...

David Goncalves - with the light touch...

On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 7:52 AM,  wrote:

> Please unsubscribe me from this list
>
> On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 at 5:42 PM, "MARK DOSSETT" <
> markjdoss...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The band change knob on my MN-2000 broke in half the other day. Is there a
> source for suitable replacement?
>
> --
> Mark J Dossett - K6MJD
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
>


-- 
David Goncalves
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] Drake TR-3 station for sale

[David Rinehart]

FS: Drake station
Sold only as a set
TR3, in good working order(over 100 watts into dummy load on 15 mtrs.)
worked K3LR (was contesting) w/ a 15m groundplane on 10/27(Finals are
strong. Audio reports good, cosmetics good
Original manual and sales brochure and separate factory RMA tag and
instructions , and copy of Drake distributor letter from 1965 to Drake rep
in Panama plus bound photocopy of manual
Also included are a new set of Sylvania finals and a new driver tube (from
Tubes & more-tested and not used-not matched)
Shure M444mic with the Drake plug-this was used regularly with the unit.
(2)dc supplies-a Linear Systems “Century 400-12m” w/all orig docs & cables
for TR3. Its the one I use and works well. Other is Drake dc-4
(w/origdocs)(works,proper output volts, but has orig caps and needs plug (1
new plug supplied) and redo cables.
$400.00 plus half cost of shipping (usps)and insurance. Boxes freePostal
mail orders or paypal only
Questions? 702 418 6765 Dave KF7OVL  kf7ovl at gmail dot com
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] T4XB squealing audio

[David Assaf]

Got the rx on ext mute in a twin config?

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Sep 10, 2012, at 3:44, "Peter Ravn"  wrote:

> After alignment per manual of the RF and mixer stages, my T4XB has got a 
> squealing transmit audio which in my R4B sounds like RF feedback. The problem 
> is on all bands and on both sidebands.
> 
> I did nothing but adjusting the four trimmers for each band to maximum.  
> Afterwards I have checked cables, the mike plug, the mike (Turner +3B) and V9 
> in the mike amplifier. The problem is still there.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Peter OZ8CTH
> 
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] FS Drake PS-7 ,Parts Wanted

[David Durant]

FOR SALE DRAKE PS-7 power supply good condition $90 plus shipping.WANTED WANTED 
AM and CW filters ,noise blanker and service manual for the TR7,also want 
junker TR7 and R7 partial or complete chassis.Contact David at 1-251-478-8823 
or n4...@bellsouth.net___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Test

[David Assaf]

Me too!

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Mar 8, 2012, at 9:57, "Donley"  wrote:

> I lost my connection to the Drakelist and am testing to see if it has been 
> restored.
>  
> Richard
>  
>  
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

[David Box]

  
  
John

There is a ground wire in the cable that connects to pin 7 on both
PS and amplifier that ties the chassis together.  As I understand
the metering system of the L4B/L7 you will always have the high
voltage return sitting slightly above chassis due to the grid
current through the 1 ohm resistor.  Thats not much but, you cannot
tie the HV return directly to chassis or will lose the metering
based on my understanding.  

Where the real danger can come is if working on the PS
independently, you can get in trouble if you make the assumption
that the HV return is grounded.  Actually when working on the PS you
can use a jumper to short the HV return to the chassis which would
probably be safer in that TEST configuration and allow you to catch
any issues with voltage breakdown due to wire routing or component
placement.

Playing with 3000 volts at these current levels is a full contact
sport and not something for casual or inexperienced operators.  This
stuff KILLS.

73 de K5MWR

On 2/20/2012 7:58 PM, w4...@aol.com wrote:

  
  
  
To be on the safe side, bond the amplifier chassis and the
  PS chassis together with a suitable length of shield from a
  piece of coax or similar cable. It certainly makes a big
  difference with the Hallicrafters SR-2000 Hurricane and P-2000
  power supply. It is probably not a bad idea with any two piece
  rig either transceiver or amplifier.
 
73,
 
John,  W4AWM
  

  


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

[David Box]

  
  
Would agree with you about the input AC power, but if you look at
the high voltage the high voltage return side is not tied to the PS
chassis but runs to Pin 6 of the power connector and then in the
amplifier where it is only tied directly to chassis when the
interlock switch is engaged.  The interlock switch also shorts the
HV to amplifier chassis ground. 

 Under normal operation the high voltage return feeds through the
plate current meter and to the center-tap of the filament
transformer with a 1ohm 10W resistor to ground, this 1 ohm resistor
forms the voltage necessary for the grid current measurement as the
grids are tied to chassis and the voltage across this resistor is
only due to grid current.  This metering arrangement for both plate
current and grid require that the HV return not be tied to chassis
in either the PS or amplifier. 

Pin 7 of the power connector is used to tie the PS and Amplifier
chassis together.  So when you are using just the supply the chassis
is at AC power ground but the high voltage return is floating with
respect to chassis.  With the cable connected to the amplifier there
is the meter resistance in series with 1 ohm resistor to ground
which is the change that does result in the PS chassis referenced to
HV and therefore you can arc the bleeders if you do something stupid
like I did of not providing a good HV isolation mount for the
bleeders.

Playing with these units is not something to be done without a lot
of prior thought and making sure you really understand the entire
circuit and safety precautions needed.  I was probably lucky in not
destroying the meter and other parts.

73 de K5MWR


On 2/20/2012 11:08 AM, K9sqg wrote:
As a side note, a properly wired L4, L4B, or L7
  power supply chassis is ALWAYS at ground potential for safety
  reasons.  The safety ground from the outlet goes directly to
  the chassis of the power supply, whether or not the RF deck is
  plugged into it or not.

  
A number of years ago, there was a
production flaw in the Dale resistors (pitting, gaps, etc. )
in the ceramic that led to flashover on the ends of the
resistor.
  

  
Nit:  the L4 power supply used two
100K 50 watt resistors while L4B/L7 supplies typically used
50K 50 watt resistors.
  

  

  

  
  -Original Message-
From: David Box 
To: k3nd 
Cc: drakelist 
Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds


  Stew

Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage 
breakdown of the bleeder resistor.  While we normally think of resistors 
in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that 
can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to 
ground.  I learned this the hard way when I had a transformer fail and 
ended up replacing it with a P. Dahl transformer with a 10% higher 
voltage. (3100 V no load, 2950 V load).  In that case removed the 2 50K 
bleeders and installed 10 20k 20W resistors mounted on standoffs, lost a 
couple of those due to voltage punch through from resistor to chassis 
before understanding the issue and properly insulating the resistor 
bodies from the chassis.  These particular resistors had about a 2KV 
breakdown limit through the ceramic insulator to the resistor surface.  
I don't remember what the actual voltage limit  across the resistor was 
but is the reason that I used the 10 devices in order to keep the drop 
in the 300V range per resistor as well as keeping the power dissipation 
in the 5W range, I think around 1K volts was the voltage breakdown limit 
for the devices I had on hand, but not sure (voltage limit due to power 
is 630V) .  The original Drake 50K 50W bleeders obviously could sustain 
in the 1500V range across the device, not sure what their rating to 
ground was, but the power limit is at 1.581KV which I think is pushing 
them more than needed.

The L4PS chassis is not at ground until you hook to the amplifier.  So 
if you have a resistor body that can flash over to ground it will not be 
apparent until you hook up to the amp.  My initial mounting arrangement 
had the resistors heat sunk to the chassis which turned out to be a dumb 
idea and was corrected by mounting the resistors on standoffs.  I would 
test the supply out on the bench, worked great then hook up to the amp 
and experienced quite a light show as the resistors arced to chassis.

The above transformer change also required adjusting the bias level due 
to operating point shift which was done by placing 2 5.6 V z

Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

[David Box]

Stew

Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage 
breakdown of the bleeder resistor.  While we normally think of resistors 
in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that 
can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to 
ground.  I learned this the hard way when I had a transformer fail and 
ended up replacing it with a P. Dahl transformer with a 10% higher 
voltage. (3100 V no load, 2950 V load).  In that case removed the 2 50K 
bleeders and installed 10 20k 20W resistors mounted on standoffs, lost a 
couple of those due to voltage punch through from resistor to chassis 
before understanding the issue and properly insulating the resistor 
bodies from the chassis.  These particular resistors had about a 2KV 
breakdown limit through the ceramic insulator to the resistor surface.  
I don't remember what the actual voltage limit  across the resistor was 
but is the reason that I used the 10 devices in order to keep the drop 
in the 300V range per resistor as well as keeping the power dissipation 
in the 5W range, I think around 1K volts was the voltage breakdown limit 
for the devices I had on hand, but not sure (voltage limit due to power 
is 630V) .  The original Drake 50K 50W bleeders obviously could sustain 
in the 1500V range across the device, not sure what their rating to 
ground was, but the power limit is at 1.581KV which I think is pushing 
them more than needed.


The L4PS chassis is not at ground until you hook to the amplifier.  So 
if you have a resistor body that can flash over to ground it will not be 
apparent until you hook up to the amp.  My initial mounting arrangement 
had the resistors heat sunk to the chassis which turned out to be a dumb 
idea and was corrected by mounting the resistors on standoffs.  I would 
test the supply out on the bench, worked great then hook up to the amp 
and experienced quite a light show as the resistors arced to chassis.


The above transformer change also required adjusting the bias level due 
to operating point shift which was done by placing 2 5.6 V zeners in 
series with filament center tap.  This has been working fine now for 8 
years.


73 de K5MWR


Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:26:18 -0800 (PST)
From: GALE STEWARD
To: Dino Papas, Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds
Message-ID:
<1329751578.83763.yahoomail...@web110514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
A timely question about the L4/L7 bleeder resistors. I recently had an issue 
with one of my L4PS supplies. It turned out to be a bad cap which I replaced. 
I'm going to install a Heathkit Shop board eventually but I wanted to get the 
amp back on line for use in the ARRL CW DX contest. While the supply was open I 
checked the 50W bleeder resistors and found them both open. I replaced both 
with new Ohmite resistors.


Sunday morning at about 1230Z, one of the new bleeders failed in dramatic 
fashion by lighting up like a 100W bulb. I quickly swapped in another L4PS and 
continued on. Last night after the contest I opened up the failed supply to 
find that the resistors had failed but all other components were all OK (no bad 
caps, etc.).

I replaced the failed bleeder (again) and all was again normal.

I'm still quite puzzled as to why this resistor failed in the first place.

GL with the project.

73, Stew K3ND



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity

[David]

Agree.  Using an ohm meter would show little unless zero.  For example, if
the resistance caused by the pin adds 0.1 ohm, then for a 15 amp filament,
that is a 1.5 volt drop; 30% less than normal.  If you had a grid to
filament short you were right on time for the new year's fireworks.

I have also read MANY YEARS AGO THAT THE REDISH COLOR IS A HEALTHY NORMAL,
so unless there is a crack in the glass, running it hot when the filaments
are fixed, should get it back to the right unclouded condition.  

Again, careful!

Good luck.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 10:26 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity


Do you ever run with color on the plates? It's required that they get a
little bit red in operation for the gettering to work.

Also, just a tiny bit of extra resistance in the filament pin is all it
takes to dim a tube. An ordinary Ohmmeter won't register the difference.

73

-Jim


On Tue, 3 Jan 2012 22:00:06 -0600, richard radke wrote:

>All,
>
>Thanks to everyone who made suggestions.  Solder on the pins all look 
>ok. .5½'s on each filament.  I'm guessing a grid to filament short/ 
>leak when it gets hot.  I did notice a slight bit of clouding near the 
>top of the envelope that wasn't there before. Maybe from running the 
>filament with way less than 5V. Thoughts ?  At any rate, a replacement 
>3-400Z is gonna be hard to find (out of production for
>years) so I'll probably just get a new 3-500 to go with the one I 
>already have.
>
>Rick
>W9WS
>


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4721 - Release Date: 01/03/12



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

[David]

Thank you both for the comments and the affirmation.  Yes, it is indeed the
Owner of the radio that determines the best for him and for his needs.  I
marvel at the asking price for the Sherwood R4c radios.  I do not know if
they get the for that cost, but for me at my time, what money I put into my
radios enhanced my dedication to them, not destroyed it. 
 
I was aware of the braid issue, yet many would say if it did not have it
from the factory that it was "wrong" to fix a broken radio!.

Thanks for your gentle reply.  As I age I see the huge variety of answers to
such a simple question that Max proposed. 

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: Don Cunningham [mailto:d...@martineer.net] 
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 7:28 PM
To: David; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

David,
I think you will find that in any group.  One group will ONLY stay stock,
even going so far as to gut and "re-stuff" paper caps with new poly caps,
remelting beeswax back in the ends!  The other group to the other side will
make it a whole new radio (look at the "reworked TR7" on WB4HFN's site for
an example of that!!  The braid mod you mentioned was a Drake factory fix to
a problem found.  There are many such things Drake put out to fix known
engineering oversights.  They remained in business for MANY years past the
sales of the first rigs, and found need to do that for most of the line. 
That's just not the same thing as the full Monte Sherwood job.

  What most of us said to the original question was that it was up to how he
intended to use the rig and what he expected to get out of it when he was
finished with it.  If using it "from now on", do what you want.  If fixing
it to use and sell in a few months, you won't get close to your investment
back.  Most threads get hijacked and twisted, that's one of the problems
with lists.

In the end, each man (or woman's) gear is theirs, and they should do what
they wish with it.  If you ask, you should be ready to get ALL views, not
just the ones you wanted to get, hi.
73, and enjoy those Drakes, or Frankendrakes, both, Don, WB5HAK

 



-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4719 - Release Date: 01/02/12


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity

[David]

Do a very close and careful check of the filament pins on the tube.  The
tube sockets used were notorious for relaxing the friction connection on the
pins; the higher resistance created heat and the solder of the pins flowed
out.  The fix is to resolder the pins Careful not to overheat 

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of richard radke
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 6:31 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity

I have an unusual situation underway in my L4B.  Evan, you out there?  Been
working fine until yesterday (i know, well happy new
year) one of the 3-400's filaments is half as bright as the other.  I
reversed the tubes and the same tube was dimmer in the opposite "hole", and
the amp and supply  seems like they're running hotter than normal. HV is
normal, but haven't keyed it yet or applied drive.  Pwr supply was rebuilt a
couple years ago with one of Mike's boards.  Has anyone seen a tube fail
like this?  Being a week after xmas and the YL's birthday Friday, not real
anxious to spend 5 big ones on a pair of 3-500's right now, but a guys gotta
do what a guys gotta do.

2nd question. I've got one 3-500 spare that I believe to be good. Has anyone
ever mixed a 3-400 and a 3-500 in the same amp?  Only for testing purposes.
Just asking.

Rick
W9WS

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4719 - Release Date: 01/02/12


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

[David]

The thread for the Sherwood modifications started with Max asking which ones
would be useful.  In my reply email and others tried to answer the question
for Max.  Hope this effort was useful to him.

I was surprised, however, to see such a staunch group that insists that the
Drakes stay pristine.  While I do not condone hackers and butchers (have one
really sad case now on the bench from some person who cared little of what
the radio was), I do believe there are mods that would enhance the use of
the radio.  For example, would anyone not recommend the grounding braid on a
PTO that obviously has lost the ability to provide its own ground?  Such a
modification enhances the pleasure of the use of the radio.  Not doing it
keeps that radio generally useless.  

And so it is for the Sherwood Mods.  When I did mine it was on a set that
was already partially modified by Sherwood.  It was at a point in time where
I could not afford anything else than a used set of Drakes.  It was my only
radio.  Modifications to the radio for my purposes made the enjoyment even
deeper and it is the reason while 30 years later I still have them.

So, while it is purist to state that the Drakes should stay pristine, we all
know and accept that those modified with a true and correct intent to fix
and enhance the operation was for me, and many, a choice that would have
otherwise frustrated us to another hobby.

The term  "different strokes for different folks..."   How we all use and
love our Drake radios is unique.  There simply is not a single right or
wrong way; so it is with the modifications.

Enjoyed the thread.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of kc9...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 3:22 PM
To: w...@arrl.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

Paul,
Absolutely true...Rob Sherwoods design is top notch...and throwing a few
parts you find around will NOT get you the same result.
There's a lot more to it than those that have not really looked into it or
have it would realize.

I think for the design, quality of parts and the kind of parts needed Rob's
prices are reasonable.
The PS and Audio amp...well yes you could roll your own there...but better
to just get the board s from him and install it yourself...IF you have the
tools & abilities.

73,
Lee



-Original Message-
From: Paul Christensen 
To: drakel...@.zerobeat.net 
Sent: Sun, Jan 1, 2012 1:34 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods


>Most of Parts for the Sherwood MODS are not cheap...the relays alone 
>for the filter swich board are $20 each + and you need several.
>Also, you need to be pretty creative to get it all in there...pretty 
>tight in places.

Yes, a tight fit, put perfectly manageable.  Keep in mind that the Teledyne
relays used for the filter switch are designed for RF applications and
hence, the high cost.  The entire relay board assembly was designed to
eliminate filter leakage and "blow-by."  Take a look at the Sherwood
ultimate filter rejection spec and it's easily to see where the buyer's
money is going.

Paul, W9AC





___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4713 - Release Date: 12/30/11


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

[David]

You may wish to consider the following:

 

Solid state mixer mod:  The 6EQ7 (I believe) is notoriously prone to
microphonics and earlier I had purchased several spare tubes  just for this
reason.  They were hard to get then.  They did not last long, so this mod
essentially solved the problem and resulted in a much quieter unit.

 

Solid state product detector: The original product detector was a simple and
poor design originating to the R blank line; this fixes the unit and makes
the detection more robust and less prone to producing noise.

 

Solid state power supply and capacitor kit (actually 2 kits here):  many of
the mods need a clean and regulated source of DC power.  This mod replaces
the original capacitors (probably in need of that any way) and PROVIDES A
NEW POWER SUPPLY for the radio.  Even up to the C line, when Drake needed a
voltage less than 250 VDC, they inserted a (generally) big resistor in the
line.  This was true for the few solid state devices that were in the radio
to start with.  This cleans it up by providing a clean and regulated source
of DC power and allows the radio to run at less DC current on the power
supply.  Less current, less heat and less "wear" on the power transformer.

 

The best thing you can do for the radio and the modification that wakes up
an otherwise lethargic radio is the 600 Cy roofing filter in the first IF.
This is the first application (that I know of) of the roofing filter concept
for improved CW operation.  It is an amazing modification and turns an ok
radio into a sprinter.  By measurement, the modified R4C has a 2 KC dynamic
range of in the 80 dB range.  Up until 15 years ago this was a measurement
not worth doing as no radio could perform in that regard.  You simply
accepted what the manufacturer, any, gave you .  It took an otherwise good
radio and made it a champ.  As I work DX only, it made working a pile up or
a contest a pleasure instead of a chore.  It is truly amazing and
essentially is what put Sherwood on the radio map.  Incidentally, it was
Bob's poor showing using a pair of new R4Cs on the ARRL 160M CW contest that
gave birth to the first roofing filter.  Since the intro of this mod, the
other manufacturers have copied it and offer it in their new designs.  It
all began here with the R4C mod that Bob Sherwood did in the 60's.  The
articles in Ham Radio where they were first published are considered
classics.  If you do but one of the modifications, do this one.  

 

Lastly, the audio amplifier tube and circuit can be replaced with a solid
state unit.  It provides cleaner audio and reduces the heat and current draw
even further.

 

The radio I have has some of the home brew items of those articles as well
as the modules purchased from Sherwood.  I would recommend going the
purchase route as all of the chore of mounting and part placement is already
worked out in the radio for you. 

 

Good luck on your adventure.  You will not be sorry.  There are other mods
that I have considered but not done that would incrementally improve the
radio, but do not have them.  There are also some simple mods for the T4X as
well and I have used some of these as well.  There are some that say that
such modifications are heresy and should not be done to keep the stable pure
and true.  I do believe it is because of these mods that Drake is still
alive in the contesting field.  I would rather take the pleasure of using a
modified radio than have a pristine original that I would never use.

 

What you will end up with is a vastly improved radio, beyond what Drake
could have imagined.  It holds its on with any other radio I have ever used,
Yaesu 1000, Orion, Omni 6+ (with the IRC roofing filter), Kenwood.  You get
the added smell and history and that full bodied sound that only the tube
radios have.

 

Keep in touch and go for it!  I envy you for the great adventure you are
about to embark on!

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Wedge
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 5:49 PM
To: AirRadio; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

 

Hi, Max - 

 

I'd go for the mods that improve on the solid-state circuits.  Because of
the period when these radios were made, many of the early solid-state
circuits that were used in the C's have had significant improvements -
particularly the audio chain.

 

I owned a couple of C-Line sets (one early and one late) and both had the
Sherwood audio amps - which I consider to be worthwhile.  There was another
mod that may not have been Sherwood that involved the third mixer and
placing an RF choke there (IIRC, it was in the cathode circuit, but we're
dealing with a 25-year-old memory here...) - it applied only to the
late-production and got rid of much of the hiss in the audio.

 

Bear in mind that a lot of those mods turned the C-Line into contest-ready
radios, which - if you&#x

[Drakelist] FW: MC4016P for the UV3

[David]

Hanks to Curt, KU8L, I have received the MC4016P chips.  BGMicro had a
zillion of them.  Put one in place of the bad one and still no joy.  It is
locking up on a different frequency.  Note the test was after I tried a good
divider board from the other unit and it worked fine.  

So, does anyone know if a source of extender boards for the UV3?  The one
needed is to essentially extend the connection of a 22 pin, double sided
computer board type socket.  After that I can then trouble shoot further.
After this is fixed, I will tackle the no output on the 440 board.

Many thanks for the help. 

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: David Assaf [mailto:w...@cox.net] 
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 8:45 AM
To: David 3
Subject: Re: MC4016P

Have them ordered. Again many thanks for the tip. Will be nice to get this
one off the bench. Have more in line. Hopefully it will do the trick. 

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Oct 25, 2011, at 10:54, "David 3"  wrote:

> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Curt [mailto:cptc...@flash.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 9:35 AM
> To: David
> Subject: MC4016P
> 
> Think I got the last ones I used here.  Not certain because its been a 
> while but I see they still have them listed and addable to their 
> shopping carts.
> 
> Hope this helps..let me know how it goes and if they are not 
> available, I will look deeper here.
> 
> Curt
> KU8L
> 
> http://www.bgmicro.com/ics1028.aspx
> 


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4579 - Release Date: 10/27/11



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

Update:
The source of the MC 4016P on EBay alas was a false hope.  What I purchased
from the vendor was correct but what was sent was  wrong.  I was  sent the
MC 14016P WHICH IS THE WRONG CHIP AND A 14 Pin DIP.  The chip I need is the
16 pin DIP Plastic package.  Some of you are looking, and many thanks.  Any
help would be appreciated.  Amazing the same number produces differing
results.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: David [mailto:w...@cox.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 9:06 PM
To: 'MICHAEL TALLENT'
Subject: RE: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

Thanks at least for looking.  Some of these old and obsolete parts can be a
challenge.  They are out there, just difficult to find.

Appreciate the effort.

David Assaf, III
W5XU


-Original Message-
From: MICHAEL TALLENT [mailto:mwtall...@comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 11:04 AM
To: David
Cc: Drakelist
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

The MC4316 would also work, it is the full temperature range device if you
can find it.  The MC4016 is similar in function to the 74160 TTL IC but only
the power and ground pins are the same.

I looked through my IC stuff as I have a lot of the older types but don't
have any MC4016 decade counters.

Mike T  W6MXV

- Original Message -----
From: "David" 
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board


> No, it is the 16 dip plastic package.Even the china references are
> saying they do not have any!
>
> David Assaf, III
> W5XU
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 9:33 PM
> To: David
> Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board
>
> David -
>
> If it's a 14 pin DIP package the MC14016 is available from Mouser, 
> Digi-Key and others.  It's just a CMOS Quad Analog switch.
>
> Google MC14016BCP is the plastic DIP, the MC14016BCPG is the wide 
> temperature version.
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
> and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> David wrote:
>>
>> Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete part.
> Any sources?
>>
>> David Assaf, III
>>
>> W5XU
>>
>
>
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2085/4543 - Release Date: 
> 10/07/11
>
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> 




-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2085/4543 - Release Date: 10/07/11


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

Well, many thanks to all for helpful references.  I was directed to eBay and
purchased apparently NOS for about $1.60 each.  I will let all know the
results.  If this is a fix, will be looking to complete the UV# with a 220
MHz module if available.  Also, the 440 receives but no output.  So, still
some work left.

Incidentally, the email /internet search robots resulted in 12 or so Chinese
replies for the IC.  The costs ranged from $53, to 87 cents each for a
minimum quantity of 100.  Most interesting.

Again thanks.  Will keep all posted on the progress.



David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: David [mailto:w...@cox.net] 
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 8:40 AM
To: 'k4...@mindspring.com'
Cc: 'drakelist@zerobeat.net'
Subject: RE: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

No, it is the 16 dip plastic package.Even the china references are
saying they do not have any!

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 9:33 PM
To: David
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

David -

If it's a 14 pin DIP package the MC14016 is available from Mouser, Digi-Key
and others.  It's just a CMOS Quad Analog switch.

Google MC14016BCP is the plastic DIP, the MC14016BCPG is the wide
temperature version.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



David wrote:
>
> Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete part.
Any sources?
>
> David Assaf, III
>
> W5XU
>


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2085/4543 - Release Date: 10/07/11


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

No, it is the 16 dip plastic package.Even the china references are
saying they do not have any!

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 9:33 PM
To: David
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

David -

If it's a 14 pin DIP package the MC14016 is available from Mouser, Digi-Key
and others.  It's just a CMOS Quad Analog switch.

Google MC14016BCP is the plastic DIP, the MC14016BCPG is the wide
temperature version.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



David wrote:
>
> Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete part.
Any sources?
>
> David Assaf, III
>
> W5XU
>


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2085/4543 - Release Date: 10/07/11


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] All band TX for the TR-7

[David]

One way to provide additional band slots for the transmit and receive is to
find and place an Aux-7 board in the radio.  These are hard to find.  The
solution I use on the several TR-7 units I have had is to use the scheme of
Robert Morrow, WB6GTM in the July 1982, QST.  It is a diode programmable
board for any 500 KC segment.  The boards I used were made by Farr radio
(probably still available) and plug into the aux 7 slot.  Work fine and no
surgery is required..

David Assaf, III
W5XU


-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2011 10:12 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] All band TX for the TR-7

On Sat, 8 Oct 2011 04:34:36 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:

>To enable the TR7 to transmit on all frequencies 1.5-30MHz simply unsolder
the collector of Q9001 on the DR7 board.  See Figures 4-1 and 4-2 in the
Service Manual.

The method I arrived at was actually an outgrowth of this mod, which I found
published on GW4ALG's web site. The Q9001 mod leaves out the 2.5 and 5.0 MHz
bands, but they can be restored by a trace cut on the digital control board.
Since the collector of Q9001 toggles a signal on the digital control board,
both mods can effectively both be done on the digital control board and the
OOL signal is preserved.

73

-Jim
 

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2085/4543 - Release Date: 10/07/11


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

So, the mc4016P is equivalent to the mc 14016P.  This is a 16 DIP plastic
case, divide by N  from 0 to 9.  The one that is bad is U 706 in the divider
board used as a counter, but there are several others of this type in the
circuit.  If the 1 in front of the 4016 means cmos, I suppose they will work
in this circuit.  A UV3 gets hot (no fans, no heat sink) and I think the
heat just got to it.  The 14016 is listed in NTE and others and I will try
to get one locally.  I will keep the list posted.  Many thanks for the help.


It is interesting to read these threads and I imagine that all of this brain
power helps keep the list members sharp; all for a common Drake cause.
Thanks again.

Incidentally there are factories in China that sell these... Had several
emails within a few hours responding back to me.   I guess they have active
mining software running all of the time.  Go figure.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2011 11:50 AM
To: Curt Nixon
Cc: Curt Nixon; David; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

Curt -

OK.  Guess you have to look and see what the circuit is!  The standard CMOS
chips are CD4016, which is a Quad Analog Switch.  Motorola's version is a
MC14016, which is why the 'extra' 1 at the beginning.  I seem to recall now
that Motorola DID have a series of 4000 chips, much like the 1 series
MCL.  The TR-7 uses about a half dozen of the MC14016 (CD4016) switches.

Thanks for the clarification, ya gotta look at the diagram to be sure.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Curt Nixon wrote:
> Well..that may be true but here is the motorola datasheet for the 
> MC4016
>
> It is indeed a Mod N divide by counter..  My app was in a HP counter
board.
>
> Curt
>
> Garey Barrell wrote:
>> Curt -
>>
>> No, it's a 4016 / 14016, same thing.  It's a quad analog switch used in
the TR-7 as well.  
>> Motorola just put the '1' in front of the CMOS number.
>>
>> The 4066 / 14066 is the same thing too.  Easy to find.
>>
>> 73, Garey - K4OAH
>> Glen Allen, VA
>>
>> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement 
>> CDs 
>>
>>
>> Curt Nixon wrote:
>>> I think he's talking about a 4016P..it is a dip package divide by N 
>>> chip.  I think I found one for a counter I was repairing.  I'll 
>>> check in the morning to see.  I remember having a devil of a time
finding one.
>>>
>>> Curt
>>>
>>> Garey Barrell wrote:
>>>> David -
>>>>
>>>> If it's a 14 pin DIP package the MC14016 is available from Mouser, 
>>>> Digi-Key and others.  It's just a CMOS Quad Analog switch.
>>>>
>>>> Google MC14016BCP is the plastic DIP, the MC14016BCPG is the wide
temperature version.
>>>>
>>>> 73, Garey - K4OAH
>>>> Glen Allen, VA
>>>>
>>>> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement 
>>>> CDs 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> David wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete
part.  Any sources?
>>>>>
>>>>> David Assaf, III
>>>>>
>>>>> W5XU
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2085/4543 - Release Date: 10/07/11

-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2085/4543 - Release Date: 10/07/11


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete part.
Any sources?

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Loopy noise

[david 3]

Some questions:\
When you first connected the radio to the amp, did it work?  If not, it
might be a miss match in impedance of the output of the radio to the input
to the amp. If there was a grounding issue, it would have shown up then.

If so, then check the electrolytics in the radio. 
 
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Neil M Califano
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 4:28 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Loopy noise

I have the R4A audio going to my stereo amp and a terrible humming from the
speakers. A ground loop, do you think?

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Leaving tube radio on

[David]

I essentially turn it on for use.  I see no need to heat and reheat
components.  Heat is a major Drake killer.  Use and enjoy them, when done
turn them off.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 5:22 PM
To: Neil M Califano
Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Leaving tube radio on

I'm not as paranoid (or as 'safe', I still have equipment with 2-Wire line
cords!,) as Jim.  I DO verify that each piece of equipment has the CORRECT
fuse.

My rule is that I turn on whatever I want to use in the morning.  If I
'think' I'll use it again during the day, I leave it on until I'm ready to
quit for the day.

Back in the 70's, I ran three Drake 4-Lines 24/7 for  autostart RTTY.  They
ran 24/7 for almost three years with only one failure, a 12BY7 Driver tube
filament opened up.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Neil M Califano wrote:
> I use my R4A about 4 hours a day. Should it be left on continuously or is
it better to turn the radio off every night?
>
>

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3887 - Release Date: 09/09/11


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Santa Claus, the Easter Bunny, and drift-free modern radios

[David]

I have used Drake equipment since I received the first, one of the first R4B
units in 1965.  I noted that there was some drifting and since I was going
from an SX 100 to the R4B, I noted that it was a fact of the units used.
For that matter, it was easily adaptable.  In those days, I would call a
Sunday net.  Since everyone was using the same "drifty" radios, it was not
an issue to either use the rit (if you had one), or for those of us using
split, to simply follow the signal.

Nowadays, folks seem to believe that a drifting signal IS A BAD SIGNAL.  I
DiFFER.  I still use the Drakes and now the quest is for DX which to be
honest is far less sensitive to the net use (which I still call).  As folks
get the newer more precisely controlled radios, they complain that your
signal is drifting from them.  Since, at last viewing, it takes 2 to tango,
I would say that that is a bit over the top; if I move and you are still
interested, move with me.  That is the theory of the tango.  Even the Orion
moves a bit on start up.

So, while I enjoy the posts, having a drifting signal for most of us is of
little consequence.  In a contest, the qso is 15 seconds long, little
drifting happens then and after you are done either someone comes
immediately after, or you move on.  

So, keep up the posts, but I will try to remember that it is in an imperfect
world the radios live in.  Use them up, and then move the dial; it is part
of the fun, drifting and all. 

David Assaf, III
W5XU


-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Ron
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 4:24 AM
To: drakel...@.zerobeat.net; Jim Shorney
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Santa Claus, the Easter Bunny, and drift-free
modern radios

I have to believe that this one is at least to some extent referring to me
as I am a huge fan of the x-lock.  Anyone who thinks that their rig is a NBS
device is dreaming.  OTOH the reality is that the x-lock tends to make the
drift w/i the TR7 manageable.  

Anyone who understands the technology knows that all x-lock is doing is
"bouncing" the freq around a small freq "slot" and clocking that against a
more stable reference.  The rig is more stable than letting the PTO "free
run".  That is only slowing the entire process to a point so that we humans
do not notice it as much.

No harm, no fowl.  Just comments.

73
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Thu, 8/25/11, Jim Shorney  wrote:

> From: Jim Shorney 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Santa Claus, the Easter Bunny, and drift-free 
> modern radios
> To: "drakel...@.zerobeat.net" 
> Date: Thursday, August 25, 2011, 8:56 PM
> 
> Some days I am more easily amused than other days.
> 
> http://www.k0to.us/HAM/FT1000MP/Temperature%20Stabilized%20FT1000MP%20
> REF%20oscillator_files/Temperature%20Stabilized%20FT1000MP%20REF%20osc
> illator.htm
> 
> What led me to the above link was a discussion of drift in the IC-706 
> radios on another list. It also reminded me of the ongoing discussions 
> on this list of huff-puff stabilizers for our "drifty" TR-7s. What's 
> new is old, what's old is new.
> 
> All kidding aside, this idea might be a good approach to tame those 
> pesky 40 MHz reference oscillators in slaved 7-Twins. I'll have to put 
> it on my round tuit list.
> 
> 73
> 
> -Jim
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Ham Radio NU0C
> Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
> TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
> GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
> 
> "Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, 
> and he will learn for a lifetime."
> 
> HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
> http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
> http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1392 / Virus Database: 1520/3862 - Release Date: 08/27/11


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR7 problem

[David Piper]

Clean those PC board contacts.
  - Original Message - 
  From: dpetersen tds.net 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 12:03 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] TR7 problem


  Hello Group:

  I am the recent recipient of a Drake TR7 with the PS7 power supply. It has 
evidently been in its original carton since 1987 and is in pristine condition. 
I fired it up to check it out and all seems well except on 20 and 10 meters. 
When switched to those bands the frequency (for 20 meters) goes to around 11.5 
MHz and starts tuning upwards rapidly, finally slowing to a stop after about a 
minute. 10 meters starts at about 26 MHz and scrolls the same way. I can hear 
signals go by as it scrolls. All other bands seem OK.

  Any ideas from the think tank? 

  -- 

  73,
  Dan - W7OIL
  === = =   =   = === ===   === ===  = = =   === === ===   = =   = === = = 






--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO - more attempts

[David]

Try touching a hot iron briefly to the ends of the donut caps.  Sometimes
these joints crystalize.

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Wedge
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 4:51 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO - more attempts

 

Did the braid addition and changed the zener.  No joy yet - thinking more
and more it's that capacitor - looking for local friends' junkboxes but will
probably spend a little to order one.  Lots of cheap ones on Fleabay, it
turns out.

 

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

 

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

 

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3800 - Release Date: 07/31/11

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO: It wasn't the transistors (entirely)

[David]

Look at D9 off of Q3.  The zener is bad.

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Wedge
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 8:52 PM
To: Jerry Semones; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO: It wasn't the transistors (entirely)

 

Yeah, I already did that and there was evidence that a previous owner did,
too.

 

Looks like the "dog-bone" is next.  Gotta find a 3000 pF SM cap.  Guess I
shoulda ordered one from Mouser when I got the transistors.

 

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

 

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

 

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

- Original Message - 

From: Jerry Semones <mailto:grand...@insightbb.com>  

To: Steve Wedge <mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>  ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 

Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 9:38 PM

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO: It wasn't the transistors (entirely)

 

Steve, for what it's worth I had a very similar problem with the PTO in my
R4B sometime ago.  I reheated all of the connections on the PTO circuit
board and it cured my problem.  

 

73' Jerry K4FJK

- Original Message - 

From: Steve Wedge <mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>  

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 

Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 9:07 PM

Subject: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO: It wasn't the transistors (entirely)

 

Replaced both transistors - the osc with the correct 2N706A and the buffer
with a 2N3904 (the '3858's are no longer made and the ones left are
stupid-expensive).

 

Unfortunately, it's still jumping around like a five-year-old on a
sugar-buzz.  Scratch the transistors as the culprits - though the signal
quality does sound a little better.

 

Looking at the worm drive/yoke, I'm wondering:  how much slop is
acceptablebetween the worm drive and the yoke?  Mine seems to have a
significant amount.

 

I'm also tending back toward capacitors again.  that largish brown one: is
there anything "special" about it?  I've heard at least a couple of reports
of that being the culprit.

 

73,

 

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

 

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

 

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

  _  

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3793 - Release Date: 07/28/11

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] spare part

[David]

Do you know if this will also fit the TR6?  Both have 9 MHz if at the filter
point.  If so, I would be interested.

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Bill Frost
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 3:50 PM
To: Drakelist group
Subject: [Drakelist] spare part

 


Hello,

 

I have a 500 hertz crystal filter, for the TR-4CW, if anyone needs it as a
spare or ???  $30.00 plus shipping.

 

Tnx & 73, Bill

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3704 - Release Date: 06/14/11
18:34:00

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood crystals

[David Assaf]

No

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jun 7, 2011, at 7:23 PM, Neil M Califano  wrote:

> Does Sherwood manufacture their own crystals?
> 
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Inproved audio amp for R-4C

[David Assaf]

Sherwood. It is in an r4c modified many years ago. 

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jun 5, 2011, at 9:48 PM, "Jim Shorney"  wrote:

>> 
> 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Inproved audio amp for R-4C

[David]

Yes.  Look them up.  Have had one installed for 15 + years.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 6:51 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Inproved audio amp for R-4C

On Sun, 5 Jun 2011 13:13:08 -0700 (PDT), Neil M Califano wrote:

>Does Sherwood or anyone offer an improved audio amp for the R-4C? Does the
new amp draw more current?


Velleman offers an audio amp kit that is very close to the Sherwood design.
It's a hi-fi amp, so the circuit should be tweaked (change one or two caps)
to
limit it to communications bandwith, but it's considerably cheaper. Current
drain hasn't been a concern since the stock class A amp is disabled in the
process, but it should be done in conjuntion with the established power
supply
mods.

http://www.sherweng.com/ham.html#kits
http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=350529

73,

-Jim

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3683 - Release Date: 06/05/11
18:33:00


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Dark spot on RV7 dial

[David Piper]

Tried to reposition in RV7 to no avail, except to blow out bulb.


- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Dark spot on RV7 dial


The position of the lamp holder affects the illumination pattern. You'll 
need

to tweak it so it until it looks the best to you. Be careful, if you
accidentally short thr=e +13 to ground it will take out the fuse in the 
TR-7

instantly.

73

-Jim


On Wed, 4 May 2011 20:39:45 -0400, David Piper wrote:

Replaced pilot bulb with #53 and now have dark spot on right hand side of 
dial of RV7.


Tried LED BA9s-WWHP6 warm white highpower which produced bright spot in 
center.


Want to get right bulb before dismantle TR7 to repl it's pilot.

Help.

AG8Z
David Piper



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and 
he will learn for a lifetime."


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist 



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] Dark spot on RV7 dial

[David Piper]

Replaced pilot bulb with #53 and now have dark spot on right hand side of dial 
of RV7.

Tried LED BA9s-WWHP6 warm white highpower which produced bright spot in center.

Want to get right bulb before dismantle TR7 to repl it's pilot.

Help.

AG8Z
David Piper___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7: Lee Blue Filter Foils

[David Piper]

Great info.  I need source to refurbish or replace front panel on my TR7.  The 
upper section has some surface corrosion damage where paint is gone.  Thanks.

David Piper
AG8Z
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Evans, AG9X 
  To: Karl du Roi 
  Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 9:47 AM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7: Lee Blue Filter Foils


  Try here:
  http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/Drake-Tech-Exchange-17.pdf




  On Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 4:59 AM, Karl du Roi  wrote:

Good morning,

I am going to swap outaged blue filter foils at my TR7 and RV7 as well. I
found that foils from LEE could be a good solution. I am uncertain if just
blue #079, dark blue #119 or medium blue #132 - or any other - would fit 
best.
See the following link for details:

http://www.zilz.de/grosse-rollen-bereich-blau-c-291_1663_1693.html

Has someone experienced what exact colour should be used?

73 de Karl, DK7AL

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist





--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat

[T. David Cohen]

The Weller guns work fine for can type electrolytic's - once you figure out
how to do it, it's easy!  I've changed lots and lots.  Instead of using
Weller tips, I use 10 ga. Copper wire.  It works fine too and it way cheap.

 

Dave, N7TC

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Nace
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 5:43 PM
To: Loren McCullough; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat

 

My Weller D-550 (240/325 Watt) was easy to find new tips for.  It's a
powerful gun that does big jobs well, especially PL-259's.  I keep it tinned
up, and this tip has lasted for about 5 years.  

Mark

N5KAE

 

From: Loren McCullough 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, March 28, 2011 4:29:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat

That's the problem I've always had with the design of the Weller gun, the
contacts for the tips get corroded.  I used to have a Wen 100/200 watt
pencil gun that had a different design and never had to reestablish the
contacts.  And it could be used for more precision work.  Used it till it
broke and I couldn't find replacements anymore.  Really miss that gun.

Loren - WA3WZR

On 3/28/2011 9:30 AM, gypsym...@aol.com wrote: 

 

Weller 100/140 gun 

Insufficient heat.  I have found that about once a year I have to back off
on the nuts that hold the soldering tip in place and re snug them down.
Probably gets oxidized ?  In any case and this may be in particular to my
guns ( I have two of those ) If I can't hear the buzz I know its not going
to get hot enough.

The same thing applied to my larger Weller 200/260

73's Carl  wd8nhk

 
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
  





No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com  
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1498/3535 - Release Date: 03/28/11

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1498/3536 - Release Date: 03/28/11

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] - WTB L-7, MN-2700

[David Piper]

Looking for a nice L-7 and MN-2700 to match my TR7.___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Roofing filter in R-4A

[David]

After the first IF.  The job of the roofing filter is to narrow the
bandwidth entering into the rest of the radio.  You can put in the rf stage
or before the mixer because it would have to be so wide!
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Neil M Califano
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 2:48 AM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Roofing filter in R-4A
 
Where in the schematic would you find a roofing filter? After the first
mixer, for example?


 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist 
  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3456 - Release Date: 02/20/11
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Roofing filter

[David]

After the first IF
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Neil M Califano
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 7:18 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Roofing filter
 
Where in a schematic would a roofing filter be located?


 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist 
  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3456 - Release Date: 02/20/11
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Roofing filter

[David]

After the first IF
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Neil M Califano
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 7:18 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Roofing filter
 
Where in a schematic would a roofing filter be located?


 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist 
  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3456 - Release Date: 02/20/11
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] SPR-4 medium wave antenna?

[David]

Note that a resonant full wave loop is inherently quieter than verticals and
dipoles.  If you have the room, it is your best bet.
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 7:33 PM
To: Drake List
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] SPR-4 medium wave antenna?
 
On Sat, 12 Feb 2011 21:56:12 +0200, geoffrey mendelson wrote:

>So I need to locate antenna outside the noise, which means I need to 
>use about 10 meters of coax. Due to availability and price, I've 
>decided to use RG-6 coax. I can run an antenna at about 6 feet above 
>ground level (in a valley) and a maxiumum of 11 meters long.

A favorite of SWLs is the PA0RDT "mini-whip". An active capacitive probe
type
antenna, small and relatively easy to build, and can be mounted just about
anywhere that's away from your noise with a coax run to the shack. No kits
available, but Google will show you the construction articles.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist 
  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3441 - Release Date: 02/13/11
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color?

[David Piper]

Semigloss is better.  I almost painted mine, but john Kreiner sold me a 
replacement for $15.  I think someone is making replacements.


David
AG8Z


- Original Message - 
From: "Richard A. (Tony) Stalls" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 6:46 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color?


I visited a powder coating place today in an attempt to match the color of 
the TR7 to redo my sticky-paint MN2700 cabinet.  I spent about a half-hour 
going over hundreds of color chips without being able to decide which one 
was the closest.  They said that most colors have names, presumably like 
Saint James Gray for Collins radios, and if they could find out what that 
was, they may be able to reproduce it.


So...  Does anybody know what name of the TR7 color is?

I told them to hold off until tomorrow (02/10/10) to see if I can find out 
what it is, otherwise we're probably going to go with flat black.


Thanks & 73,
Tony Stalls, K4KYO


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist





___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] DSP Filters

[David]

The add on DSP units are audio DSP filters and they can be very effective.
The OMNI VI+ has a very effective one.  They can be used with or without the
roofing filter in the first IF.  As there are various needs for cw and for
SSB, the roofing filter will also change.  So, for ssb, a 3KC filter would
be good, the 600 cycle or lower for cw would be applicable.  
All the roofing filter does is to limit the necessarily wide bandwidth of
the front end from abusing the first IF and later stages.  When this
happens, IMD occurs and other strange generated noises are present that
travel thru the set.  Stopping the mess at the first IF allows the rest of
the radio to perform efficiently and cleanly.  The noise filter on the
audio, only helps when some crud does slip into the roofing filter passband.
 
Sherwood sells a switch kit that varies the AGC and has a concentric switch
that can select one or more of the roofing filters.  You do not have to
elect to have a cw or ssb filter only; with the switch you can have what you
wish, even both.  So, if you want optimal, get the roofing filter for the
mode or modes that you want and if necessary (generally only occasionally)
get the audio DSP.  Note that in most models, the roofing filter can be
switched with an unused lug on the filter switch.  You will need to look/see
if you have this.
 
Good luck.
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Hunter Ellington
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 5:29 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] DSP Filters
 
My experience is just the opposite.  I use a Timewave S9+ with both my R7
and R4C.  The Time waves work splendidly with my Drakes, and reduce noise to
the point that these old receivers compare favorably with the modern rice
boxes..
 
K0GFY  R. Hunter Ellington
303-454-0543/720-560-8139
P.O. Box 44
Larkspur, CO 80118

Sent From My iphone.
 
  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3424 - Release Date: 02/05/11
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB problem

[David]

Had the same thing.  It was the filter cap in the AC4 serving the Lower
voltage supply.
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of LOU GIOVANETTI
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 12:51 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB problem
 
I was on the air on CW with my T-4XB when all of a sudden The
transmitted signal started to sound rough? Any idea what the problem
could be?

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist 
  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1191 / Virus Database: 1435/3349 - Release Date: 12/30/10
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] OT Help on RF interference (New QTH)

[David]

Some items to check.  The DF'ing would be a first.  It would at least give a
more localized direction to look see what the issue.
 
Electronic dimmers:  old style dimmers used SCR's in the dimming circuit.
Try turning on/off lights and switched receptacles.
 
TV and sound electronics:  Many of these use switching supplies; try the
turn on/off to see if the noise goes away.  Actually to limit the issue to
in or out of your home, turn things off with the breakers and see if this
makes the noise go away.
 
Try it on another receiver.
 
At times the power company is the culprit.  If you have electric heat, the
sequencers in the heater can chatter causing an issue.  The power company
likely feeds your house either overhead or underground. the transformer has
bushings that if damaged or loose will create a lot of noise.  If it is
local, can you smell any ozone?  Had one of these.  Found it when it was
foggy and the top of the pole transformer feeding my home was glowing.  Took
a pix of it as the power company did not want to believe me.  Was a cracked
HV bushing. 
 
Good Luck !
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of kc9...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2010 7:36 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] OT Help on RF interference (New QTH)
 
Darn new QTH...I am finding a BIG problem, here.
I have a pulsing RF noise about every 40-50 KC. If it were audio I
would describe it as the sound of an old pump,  (maybe 10 times a
second) or something. It does top and go...tonight about every 10-15
minutes or so...ot exactly though. It's winter here.


The signal is about 20 KC wide and repeats ever 50 KC.
starts at 80 mtrs goes all the way to 10.

Any ideas, or is there a better list to go to for help on this.
Yes, I have turned off evey breaker in my house in sequence...it ain't
here.

Closest neighbor is about 250 ft.
I'm at a small lake out in the country with maybe 180 houses around
it...only 30% here this time of year.

73,
Lee




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1170 / Virus Database: 426/3330 - Release Date: 12/21/10
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] 2B Oscillator

[T. David Cohen]

Hi Folks,

 

I'm getting closer to getting my 2B back up and running.  I'm having some
significant issues with the first conversion oscillator - V1 though.  It
doesn't like the 11 MHz crystal that came with the receiver and it doesn't
like a 14 MHz crystal that I got for WWV.   I've tried multiple tube
substitutions - 6U8A's and 6EA8's and I've checked voltages and resistances
without any luck.  Several other crystals of various frequencies seem to be
OK.   I've seen several references to the problem in the archives of this
list but actually not much info.  Is there any circuit change or
modification that'll overcome this problem or am I overlooking something
obvious?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Dave Cohen, N7TC

 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] Q Multiplier

[T. David Cohen]

I'm bringing back a recently acquired 2B and Q multiplier.  The first of
many questions - about how long should the shielded lead between the 2BQ and
the receiver be (and what sort of coax?)?A previous owner did some
'work' on it.

 

Thanks!

 

Dave Cohen, N7TC

 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] T4-X Zener Diode D6

[David]

Yes.  Be careful not to wildly disturb the physical placement of the other
components.  Good luck!
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Edward Swynar
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2010 6:56 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T4-X Zener Diode D6
 
Hi Guys,
 
A quick question before I start dis-assembling my T-4X here to replace zener
diode D6 (a 1N714, at Q1 VFO buffer)...
 
Is this rascal inside the VFO can...?
 
When I had this shield removed a week ago to clean the guide shafts & add a
ground strap (to address my frequency warble issue), I guess I was so
distracted about safely removing the doggone thing that I failed to notice
any transistors or diodes hidden therein...in fact, I recall seeing only a
couple of discreet components on the small circuit board, i.e. fixed
capacitors...
 
The schematic in the T4-X manual shows the diode to be ensconced within a
"T1", along with the VFO & buffer transistors---yet the physical VFO can is
marked "T5"...I can see no "T1" identified in any of the photographic views,
and most of the components in the underview photo of the rig in the manual
do NOT identify a whole heckuva lot of the parts (I guess I got spoiled by
years of looking at Heathkit manuals!).
 
Any clues as to the location of D6 before I start dis-assembling things...?
 
Many thanks in advance, & my vy
 
~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
 
  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1153 / Virus Database: 424/3241 - Release Date: 11/06/10
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Drake T4-X Frequency "Wobble"

[David Assaf]

While the mechanical issues are certainly a possibility you might want  
to try An experiment.  If the radio cuts up when it is cold it may be  
the Zener diode in the vfo. If this is bad even cold the radio will  
jump frequency.

Try the mechanical
Fixes including the grounding strap. If that does not work suggest  
replace the Zener

Good luck

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Oct 26, 2010, at 6:46 AM, Curt Nixon  wrote:


Hi Eddy:

That brass end sticking out the back of the VFO can is the shaft  
that the permeability cores are mounted on.


You can carefully remove the can from the back by squeezing the  
spring latches on the front of the can.


The back end of the shaft simply rides along on the phenolic end of  
the coil form.  Generally, this is smooth but if you move it by  
hand, the frequency changes..its pretty sensitive.  It is possible  
that there is some dirt or gunk there that might make it move  
slightly with temp changes and you might carefully brush the shaft  
and giude with an artists brush and some isopropyl 99% alcohol.


If the cover is off, you can also inspect to insure that the glue  
that holds the end pc in place, is not loose.  Also the glue on the  
coils.  A bit of nitrocellulose glue...airplane cement, can be use  
there and be exactly equal to original.  I use "Ambroid"  
brand..amber wood model glue.  It is generally behind the counter at  
hobby stores.


Also, the grounding of the traveller bar that runs in and out on the  
screww shaft can become intermittant with dirt and lubricant.  A  
common modification is to use a strip of desoldering braid to make a  
flexible grounding strap between the frame and the moving slider  
that runs on the vfo screw.


I'll see if I can find some pictures of all this if you need them.

Be very delicate on removal of the cover.  Anything in there that  
gets damaged or moved will be a problem.  But it isn't rocket  
science either.  I think the simplicity of the design is why they  
keep running so well 40+ years after manufacture.


Cheers,

Curt
KU8L



Edward Swynar wrote:

*/Hi Guys,/*
At Garey's suggestion, I've started to monitor the on-the-air CW  
signal of my T4-X directly on my R-4 receiver---I also just  
recently "retired" my electronic keyer, in favour of my /Vibroplex/  
Presentation bug...
Now, I don't know if it's due somehow to all my rockin' & rollin'  
with the bug next to the T-4X, or what, but all of a sudden I've  
noticed that periodically, and for no apparent reason, the / 
quality/ of the monitored frequency of the T-4X will get "/jumpy/",  
or /shift/ ever-so-slightly, during transmit...in worst cases, it  
will actually sound garbelled & "/wobbly/", almost like that of a  
participant in the annual /AWA 1929 QSO Party!/
I've rotated all of the switches on the transmitter, removed the  
tubes & replaced them, cleaned the switches, cleaned the tube pins,  
with no noticeable & direct cause-and-effect. Last night, in  
desperation, I tried my tried-and-true "/pencil tap/" trick when  
trouble-shooting intermittents like this: with the top cover  
removed, I tapped every tube, compartment, & protrudance atop the  
T4-X chassis with the eraser end of a pencil, hoping to generate  
the symptoms of the intermittent...
I came up blank, /UNTIL/ the pencil tapped the VFO shielded  
enclosure: I could emulate/generate the /very same symptoms/ as  
before, just by gently rapping the VFO "can". I next placed my  
finger on the yellow-coloured device that ever-so-slightly  
protrudes out the rear hole in the enclosure, and by applying the  
lightest of pressure, I could change the frequency of the transmit  
signal by the same margins as when the condition first reared its  
ugly head.
This hardly seems conducive to operation under trying conditions, I  
said to myself!
It dawned upon me that maybe if this yellow-coloured device might  
somehow be physically "stabilized", the issue might disappear. I'm  
thinking of a simple strip of masking tape applied over the hole of  
the VFO enclosure, contacting both it and the protruding "device".  
I'd like to examine the VFO in my R-4, first, however (it has no  
such instability issues whatsoever).
Has anyone ever encountered such a condition before...? And just  
what exactly is /inside/ that VFO shielded enclosure, anyway...? Do  
I dare to remove it, or will my doing so unleash a whole new / 
Pandora's Box/ of woes & misfortunes upon yours truly...?!

Many thanks in advance for any & all insight in this regard...
*/~73!~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/*
*//*   
--- 
-


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailma

[Drakelist] FS: Drake TV-1000 1kW Low Pass Filter

[David Goncalves]

Perfect condition, no blown caps, rust, and just the lightest of copper
spotting.

$10 plus shipping.

-- 
David Goncalves
W1EUJ
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6 Question

[David Assaf]

Please also remember thses tubes were designed for the horizontal  
output on TV s.  This is a constant and severe service. With loading  
care they will last a very long time.  I have a set in some 1964 t4xb  
units that are original and still function well on 10 meters.
The advice about using tubes of the same manufacturer is sound as once  
the setup was perfected the tubes we very close to each other.


Good luck.

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Sep 27, 2010, at 10:23 PM, Garey Barrell   
wrote:


The 'real' catch is that these tubes were originally designed to  
work at ~16 kHz, NOT 30 MHz.  So depending upon internal structure,  
a tube that works at 15 kHz may not work at all at 30 MHz.  The  
inter-element capacitances are balanced out by the neutralization  
circuit, and these may differ considerably depending upon who made  
the tube.  These capacitances have little or no effect at 15 kHz,  
but ...


A plain emission tester will tell you if the tube is 'dead' at DC,  
but all that means is that there is still some coating on the  
cathode and that none of the major elements are shorted.  I don't  
know enough about tube science to explain WHY, but in this service  
these tubes lose gain at the highest frequencies first, and progress  
downwards.  A tube can produce 85W on 80M and 0W on 10M.  But they  
weaken from the 'top down'.


The best thing you can do to prolong tube life is to put a small fan  
either on top of, or on the back of, the PA cage, blowing UP or  
OUT.  It doesn't have to move much air to make a major difference in  
reducing the heat in the cage.  A small computer fan that runs  
silently is fine.  Good PA tubes will run for literally years as  
long as you don't take 10 minutes to tune them up because you have  
the wrong antenna selected.  I was able to get over two years in  
full power RTTY service back in the 60's.  Typical SSB or CW should  
last 5 - 10 years.  The PA tubes in my 'daily driver' T-4XB are over  
10 years old.


Drake matched final tubes by selecting according to cathode current  
vs bias voltage at idle.  They can be matched in the transmitter by  
installing ONE tube, and setting the Bias voltage for 35 mA of  
cathode current.  Then replace that tube with successive tubes,  
without adjusting Bias, and note the current drawn by each tube.   
Pairs are two tubes that are closest to each other in current  
drawn.   If most of the tubes tried draw 40 mA in this situation,  
install one of those, reset bias to 35 mA and try again.


Obviously the meter in the T-4X(any) isn't all that accurate, (it  
DID cost around a dollar new!,) so it's best to measure the voltage  
drop across the 15 ohm resistor for the socket being used.  Measure  
the actual resistance and then measure the voltage across it for 35  
mA.


From a practical standpoint, two new tubes from the same  
manufacturer are probably close enough.  A reasonable target is to  
find a pair that are within 5% of each other at idle current.


Matching IS important, because these tubes are being run VERY hard.   
IF one tube is only carrying 90% of the load, the other is doing the  
110%, adding insult to injury.  And third-order distortion products  
go up rapidly!


Best brands seem to be Sylvania, Zenith, RCA and GE, in that order.   
Other brands may or may not neutralize properly, depending upon who  
actually built them.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Curt wrote:
Experience with finals on my T-4XB prompts some questions.  Can a  
simple emissions tester be used in any way to estimate 6JB6  
performance in circuit? Can that tester be used to "match" 6JB6  
tubes?  Evidently these transmitters were pretty picky about what  
PA tubes they would tolerate, with differences between  
manufacturers being an issue.


Another thing I'm wondering is whether most of the 6JB6 tubes for  
sale these days are used and maybe already worn out.  One pair I  
bought off the web were pretty useless in my T-4X.  Any source of  
known-good 6JB6s?


Changing out the finals and then neutralizing them is a pain in the  
rear I'd like to do rarely, would like to somehow know that the  
replacements are better than the soft tubes being replaced.


73, Curt KB5JO

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Apologies

[david 3]

KNEW IT WOULD BE.  HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YEARS AGO.  GLAD IT IS OVER FOR YOU!

 

David

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of pony...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 8:22 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Apologies

 

 Hi Gang,

 

  I feel a bit remiss as I haven't commented about my unstable PTO in my
R4C. I no longer own it, as the fellow that was instrumental in getting it
for me swapped his unmodified R4C for mine. I was not comfortable with the
idea of dismantling all those parts to remove the PTO.

 

  Indeed, I am very grateful for all those replies. I could be mistaken, but
I think the fellow that suggested the problem could be that pesky 10 volt
zenner diode was correct.

 

   Again, Thanks a bunch for all the ideas Tom, WD8JPP 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] unstable R4C PTO

[David Assaf]

If you are not turning the dial and it jumps then it is not likely a  
mechanical issue.  As stated before the vfo oscillator is quite  
voltage sensitive. My bet is the Zener as I have written earlier.  
Solid state devices were not consistently uniform as they are now and  
with use can get into an unstable part of the curve and exhibit an  
inconsistent impeadence and hen e the jump.


Suggest you change the Zener

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Aug 24, 2010, at 10:22 AM, "steve white"  wrote:


Dennis



I had this problem once in a old HQ170 and it turned out to be the C  
in the vfo LC circuit.  It was a nice looking mica capacitor and I  
didn’t think at first that it could be the problem but after all the 
 other things I changed once I replaced it all was right with the wo 
rld again.




Steve NU0P



From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist- 
boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Monticelli

Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 23:59
To: pony...@aol.com
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] unstable R4C PTO



Zener diodes can develop an instability in their voltage "knee"  
value due to migration of mobile charge at the surface of the  
semiconductor.  A random walk of a few tens or hundreds of mV could  
produce your frequency problem.  Put a scope probe on the zener and  
set your scrope for high sensitivity.  See if you observe a "jumpy"  
voltage.




Dennis AE6C

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 6:37 PM,  wrote:

  Hi Gang,



  Thanks for all the replies to my past message, but at this point  
in time, I'm even more dumbfounded than ever. So far I have cleaned,  
and oiled the mechanical parts, installed a ground strap on the PTO,  
resoldered all the ground wires inside. everything is free, and  
working as it should. Also, I drilled another hole in the cover to  
stretch that angled spring giving more tension.




  No avail, now I think it must be an electronic problem, as  
sometimes, when I try to tune a station, it warbles, sometimes while  
I am just listening hands off. vibration doesn't seem to change  
anything.


  Someone emailed me suggesting the zenner diode could be the  
culprit. I always thought most solid state devices either work, or  
don't work. Is it possible that's the problem, or could it be  
somewhere else outside the PTO?




   Thanks for reading thisTom, WD8JPP


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] R4C unstable VFO

[David Assaf]

Sorry. Zener diode in the vfo

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Aug 20, 2010, at 12:28 PM, David Assaf  wrote:


Change the 3zener diade in the CFO

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Aug 19, 2010, at 4:19 PM, pony...@aol.com wrote:


   Hi People,

  I've got an R4C that is jumping frequency by +- 1 Khz, then  
slowly returns to the correct frequency only to repeat again, and  
again.
  I have installed the ground strap mod, and exchanged several  
tubes, cleaned the switching, and checked all the RCA jacks on the  
rear panel. At this time I don't know where else to go. Has anyone  
had/ corrected this problem? Any help, or suggestions would be  
greatly appreciated.



  Tom
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] R4C unstable VFO

[David Assaf]

Change the 3zener diade in the CFO

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Aug 19, 2010, at 4:19 PM, pony...@aol.com wrote:


   Hi People,

  I've got an R4C that is jumping frequency by +- 1 Khz, then  
slowly  returns to the correct frequency only to repeat again, and  
again.
  I have installed the ground strap mod, and exchanged several  
tubes, cleaned the switching, and checked all the RCA jacks on the  
rear panel. At this time I don't know where else to go. Has anyone  
had/ corrected this problem? Any help, or suggestions would be  
greatly appreciated.



  Tom
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] R4C static after Sherwood 3d mixer mod

[David Assaf]

Same thing on the filter selector switch. Not using the radio will  
usually have a switch issue. A bit od deoxit will resolve thAt issue.
Good luck.  The third mixer did adequately address the third mixer  
prob. Drake had 3 or 4 designs and Sherwood. Solved it all.


A clean and functioning Sherwood receiver is a wonder. Still use mine

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jul 31, 2010, at 9:48 AM, Robert Ladden  wrote:

I had this problem when a crystal filter on the back was not making  
a good connection with one of the pins. Wiggle each filter. The  
static crashes would occur out of nowhere and last a few seconds.  
Took me weeks to find it.


73,
Bob WW3QB



--- On Sat, 7/31/10, K4GM- George  wrote:


From: K4GM- George 
Subject: [Drakelist] R4C static after Sherwood 3d mixer mod
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Saturday, July 31, 2010, 8:06 AM
I have obtained an R4C with many of
the Sherwood mods installed including the solid state 3d
mixer which is supposed to eliminate the dreaded frying
crackle.   Unfortunately occasionally I hear
a bit of static sounding to me like what a brief solar flare
might sound. It is not really a hiss but more like a strong
static crash.  It is definitely not simply QRN!
It is infrequent and I can still copy over it.  Before
I open it up and start reviewing the wiring on the mixer
mod, has anyone else had experience with this type of
problem?  Is there a known culprit such as one of the
tubes going bad??  Any and all suggestions appreciated.

George K4GM

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Line C - Frequency counter problem

[David Assaf]

You might consider the cables connecting the counter. Smaller cables  
add lots of capacitance ans as such adds load. I have used the  
torrestronics unit and another on both the b and c line twins with no  
issues using 58 size coax.  Good luck.  The read out is certainly a  
great addition


Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On May 10, 2010, at 3:32 PM, Curt Nixon  wrote:

Yes...I wasn't very clear on the amp at the Rx approac.  It would  
still be on the counter leg of the Y.  really an "L"...so the INJ  
path is still same as original between R and T but the extra cable  
capacity going to the counter is reduced by the 12 to 16 inches of  
cable I have now up to the RO box on the top of the Rx.


Its one of those things on my to-do list:  characterize the whole  
system to try to find a definitive problem and solution...but so  
many other things to do !!;)


Yes the sensitivity of the RO is not that great as I recall the  
signal just goes to an input pin of an 74HC4046 then to the PIC.


Another thing I wanted to try on the barefoot counter was to reduce  
the input blocking caps from .1MFd down to a few pico's.  the input  
is a series .1, a series 100 Ohm , then another .1M in series.. then  
the parallel clipping diodes to ground right after the Res.  Seems  
like the input capacity can be reduced a lot by making the blocking  
caps smaller.  Couldn't be a lot worse I think.



Garey Barrell wrote:
Sometimes it works, but mostly not, lately.  I used to just reply  
to the list, but now I reply to all so at least the person I'm  
addressing the reply to gets it.  Actually they get it twice if the  
list happens to work!  :-)


You can't put the amp at the junction of the "Y" because of the DC  
control voltage.  Unless your FET amp passes DC both ways through it!


The problem is most likely the sensitivity of the counter dropping  
off with higher frequency, plus the effect of the cable parallel  
capacitive loading.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] VOX Relay Cable connector for AC-4

[David Assaf]

In the old days of tv sets that had removeable backs supply houses  
would sell a cheater cord that would go between the back that is  
removed and the set itself. This extension was an exact fit for the  
receptacle on the power supply.you can also bring out the two wires  
thru the chassis ans go from there. Note that some early ac 3 units  
did not have this connector.

Good lick

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jan 22, 2010, at 12:15 PM, Paul Gerhardt   
wrote:


Anybody have a part #/source for a VOX connector for the AC-4?  What  
else can you use to make a relay cable?  Going to try the 'B' line  
on one of my amps.



Some Drake restore pix on blogspot

--
Paul Gerhardt
K3PG
http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com
QRP ARCI 6674
FP 274
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] 34PNB?

[David Goncalves]

noise blankers that are 'plug-in' for collins are made by Wynn Works.
Perhaps they can be modified for the Drake.

David Goncalves
W1EUJ

On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 11:33 AM, Curt Nixon  wrote:

> Is there a source for boards / cloning info for the 34PNB Noise Blanker for
> the TR4?
>
> If not, is there any interest in having boards made up?
>
> Curt
> KU8L
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>



-- 
David Goncalves
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB strange ma value

[David Assaf]

Bias. Could always effect plate current. What it sounds like is tuning  
to some harmonic that will find a strNge resonance and draw current.  
As this is likely A frequency outside the bands and likely harmfucl it  
is good to reduce the gain quickly. The book has some good guidelines  
on the rough position of the controls that will prevent this   In my  
experience a power supply capacitor is not generally an intermittent  
issue, it is either bad or good. If wou have a lot of miles on the  
power supply it would be good insurrance to clean it up anyway.


Good luck.

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jan 25, 2010, at 9:22 AM, Garey Barrell  wrote:


Frank -

Interesting!

One thing, tuning the RF TUNE to the "middle of the 80M band"   
_segment_  is probably tuning to the IF of 5.645 MHz.


I certainly suspect Bias supply troubles.  Is the FInal idle setting  
ok at 70 mA?  Possibly intermittent loss of Bias which could  
partially "key" the transmitter.


I would strongly suggest replacing the Bias supply filter caps at a  
minimum.  The chances of catastrophic failure with considerable  
damage are just too great to ignore.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



iz oos wrote:

Hi Folks,

Premise: my AC-4 has still all the original caps, included the bias
ones which I should decide to change.

Weeks ago, I had experienced something very strange with my T-4XB. It
tunes correctly, but, at a particular point of the RF-TUNE in the
middle of the 80 meters band, it absorbed 320mA notwithstanding the
rig was going to be tuned on completely others band such as the
20meters band with the GAIN control set to minimum!!! This scared me.
It happened twice, albeit I was very quick to move the RF tune knob  
so

I saw the 320mA just for less than a second or so. It seems that no
apparent damage occurred, as I tuned the rig on the band correctly.
But after that day then I haven't turned the rig on again.

Could it be due to the bias caps or to something else?

73,

Frank IZ2OOOS




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR4 and SB-200 Question

[David Home]

True, but for those who do CW, the 100 or so watts would benefit from the
amplifier.  Use the ALC feature and you should be fine.  Been doing so for
many years and have had no issues.  Note, no QSK here...

As always, the antenna approach is and should always be first consideration
on any attempt to improve your signal.

Good luck.

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 8:53 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR4 and SB-200 Question

Kevin -

The first question to ask, is WHY?

The TR-4 puts out about 200W. An SB-200 probably puts out less than 500W.

That's a little more than one-half S-Unit. So... You're going to 
generate 200W, stick more than one-half of that into a dummy load, and 
then amplify the remainder to approximately twice what you started 
with? To move the other station's S-Meter about one-half of an S-Unit?

Much more cost effective to improve your antenna, PLUS, any antenna 
improvements also improve the received signals.

Just a suggestion 

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Kevin Elliott wrote:
>
> I have just recently purchased an extremely nice SB-200 with all of 
> the Harbach mods installed, my question is this. With all of the mods 
> installed which are mainly aimed at allowing the SB-200 to play better 
> with today solid-state rigs, do these mods, in particular the Soft-Key 
> mod now prohibit me from using my Drake TR-4 with the amplifier? I do 
> realize one of my major concerns it to not overdrive the amp with the 
> TR-4. After reading the suggestion which was posted a week or so back 
> I think I may use the T-connector and a 100-watt dummy load setup to 
> help solve the over driving problem. I am wondering if I should just 
> use the ALC line and perhaps a foot switch on the amp. Any suggestions 
> or feedback is appreciated.
>
> 73,
>
> Kevin - KG0MN
>
>

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR4 and SB-200 Question

[David Home]

 

Opps:  mis read.  The previous remarks are valid to the t4 series.  The tr4
will have to have essentially a resistive network to absorb power to fee the
200 with less than 100 watts. Simply doing so with the gain control will not
do fully.  I believe that Drake states this in the manual.

 

Sorry for the mis direction.  Concentrate on the antenna and you will not be
disappointed.  

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Kevin Elliott
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 11:25 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR4 and SB-200 Question

 

I have just recently purchased an extremely nice SB-200 with all of the
Harbach mods installed, my question is this.  With all of the mods installed
which are mainly aimed at allowing the SB-200 to play better with today
solid-state rigs, do these mods, in particular the Soft-Key mod now prohibit
me from using my Drake TR-4 with the amplifier?  I do realize one of my
major concerns it to not overdrive the amp with the TR-4. After reading the
suggestion which was posted a week or so back I think I may use the
T-connector and a 100-watt dummy load setup to help solve the over driving
problem.  I am wondering if I should just use the ALC line and perhaps a
foot switch on the amp.  Any suggestions or feedback is appreciated.

 

73,

 

Kevin - KG0MN

 





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (7.0.0.514)
Database version: 6.14140
http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
 

<>___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Need Help With L7 NOS Front Panel

[David Austin]

Hi Jim,

For removing sticky labels I have always used the spray-on lubricant
WD-40. I have never experienced paint damage with this product. Just
wash surface after use carefully with soap and warm water and dry
thoroughly afterwards. They do actually mention on their UK website
that it can be used for this purpose. For complete safety maybe test 
on old panel first?
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519

73

David
G4GTP


- Original Message - 
From: "Jim DiMauro" 
To: "Drakelist" 
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 12:04 AM
Subject: [Drakelist] Need Help With L7 NOS Front Panel


> Hi All:
>
> I have a NOS front panel for my L7 amplifier. It still has the
> original protective plastic covering on it that has become brittle
> over the years and is stuck fast to the panel. I tried to scrape it
> off with my fingernail and still it doesn't want to come off. If I
> try to use something stronger to scrape off the plastic I'm afraid 
> I'll
> damage the paint. Do any of you know of a solvent or some other way
> to remove the covering that wouldn't damage the paint or lettering?
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> 73,
> Jim
> W2BVM
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] r4a alignment

[David & Chris Drake]

It is very very broad.  I watch for the dip on each end, then calculate how 
many turns or partial turns to get it to the center of the range.   Then close 
enough.   About the best you can do !!
David 
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: Carey Lockhart 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 7:44 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] r4a alignment


  well the book said the adjustment would be broad but i am sure i am doing 
something wrong.
  i was actually expecting a peak on the meter


  Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT
  kc5...@gmail.com
  www.kc5gtt.com






  On Mar 4, 2009, at 5:59 PM, Chuck Grandgent wrote:


we'll see what the experts say, but I seem to recall that that is normal.

   Chuck, K1OM


On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 3:56 PM, Carey Lockhart  wrote:

  hello gang,

  well i finally got all my test gear in order. i can now do a proper 
alignment on my drakes and other projects. so here is the first thing i ran 
into. on my r4a 13 tube i was doing good until i made it to step B the 50kc if 
alignment. it says to adjust t7 and t10 for max s meter but i saw no change. 
even to a extreme adjustment. any suggestions?

  -- 
  Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT
  Boerne, Tx. 78006
  www.kc5gtt.com


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist








--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] 2A Passband Filter Problem.

[David Goncalves]

Hello,

I have a 2A that I was unable to get the passband tuner setup so
that the pitch of the noise was equal on both sides of the center.
I setup a sweep generator, 0.1v pk-pk, sweeping from 40 - 60 KHz, in on pin
5 of V4.
I setup an oscilloscope on pin 1 of V5. A marker output on the sweep
generator is used as a trigger.
Doing this, I can clearly see a narrow passband that is shifted around by
the
twist of the knob. On the 4.8 KHz position, the passband is greatly widened,

as expected.
Now, back to the narrow mode. There is notch on that
passband, and the sides are not symetrical. One side had a slow
rolloff, while the other had a far faster one. That explains the
greater amount of high frequency hissing in one sideband.
I removed and opened the tuner. Four slugs are ganged together and mounted
on a
spring mechanism. Each slug is mounted on a wire, which is
soldered to the brass plate that moves them all together. First thing I
thought was some small drift in the inductance or
parallel capacitance, I unsoldered the slugs and adjusted while sweeping. No
improvement could be made in narrow setting.

Then I thought that the coupling caps might be off. I unsoldered them, and
tested on a precision RLC meter.
They are all within 0.2pF of the expected value. The 0.015 caps are OK, as
is the 150 ohm resistor.

Next place to look is the

Questions:

a.  Drake 2A owners - do you get the same audio response on both sides of
center? Am I expecting too much from it? With something this clever it
SHOULD work better.

b. Have I been testing the filter correctly? The output LOOKS high
impedance, so I have not loaded it except with the high impediance input of
my scope. Should I, perhaps, adjust each section for resonance at 50 kHz
then lightly tweak for passband shape?

c. Perhaps somebody out there has a scrap 2A from which I could buy the
passband tuner, in case I ruin this one?


Comments?

-- 
David Goncalves
W1EUJ

-- 
David Goncalves
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue

[David & Chris Drake]

Thanks Jim,
VERY helpful.  Looks like I'm not the only one who's had this S-meter issue. 
I'll pull the board tonight or tomorrow and do some inspection.


Anyone on the list who has a TR-7 and does his own maintenance, should print 
out a copy of this for their "Drake Book".


73's
David

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" 

To: ; "David & Chris Drake" 
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue



On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 17:44:59 -0500, David & Chris Drake wrote:


Anyway, I'm gonna study up on the 2nd if-audio board and see if I can 
figure

out anything.



Here it is:

http://radiojim.exofire.net/pages/TR7_2IFA.html

I hope this is helpful to you.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org







___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue

[David & Chris Drake]

Thanks Jim,
Yes, I've miss typed.  Sorry if I confused anyone.  Those of you that have 
one of those little handy elecraft generators I'm sure understood.  Output 
is either 1uV or 50uVthere I typed it right!
Anyway, I'm gonna study up on the 2nd if-audio board and see if I can figure 
out anything.

Later,
David


- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" 

To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue



On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 10:45:37 -0500, David & Chris Drake wrote:

I've gone over the S-meter setup 3 times, and same result.  An S-9 signal 
is 30 over, calibrate is about the same, 30 over.  I've tried a separate 
signal generator at 50mv and its 30+ over (elecraft oscillator).  Same 
50mv signal gen used to check TR4C and its S-8, and TTec Omni VI is same.



I really hope you mean 50 uV, rather than 50 mV. The holy grail seems
to be 50 uV for S-9 these days, although I have seen some radios over
the years that were spec'd at 100 uV. The results I ended up with
seemed to be a combination of circuit changes to the 2nd IF/Audio board
and the adjustment method used. I've got my notes partly cleaned up,
I'll see if I can finish it up this evening and get it up on the web. I
got closer to 50 uV for S-9 than I could when I started...

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist






___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue

[David & Chris Drake]

Hi, maybe someone on the list can help me troubleshoot this.  My TR-7 is now 
working VG+ with with one exception. the S meter reads way high on receive. 
 Wattmeter portion is correctly set per manual, and all other receive 
alignments are spot on per the manual.

I've gone over the S-meter setup 3 times, and same result.  An S-9 signal is 30 
over, calibrate is about the same, 30 over.  I've tried a separate signal 
generator at 50mv and its 30+ over (elecraft oscillator).  Same 50mv signal gen 
used to check TR4C and its S-8, and TTec Omni VI is same.

Any ideas as to where I should look first?  Or, are any other alignment 
settings critical enough as to indirectly cause this problem? 

Thanks,
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] 2A Passband Tuner Issue

[David Goncalves]

Hello,

I have a 2A that I was unable to get the passband tuner setup so that the
pitch of the noise was equal on both sides of the center.

I setup a sweep generator, 0.1v pk-pk, sweeping from 40 - 60 KHz, in on pin
5 of V4. I setup an oscilloscope on pin 1 of V5. A marker output on the
sweep generator is used as a trigger.

Doing this, I can clearly see a narrow passband that is shifted around by
the twist of the knob. On the 4.8 KHz position, the passband is greatly
widened, as expected.

Now, back to the narrow mode. There is ALOT of ripple on that passband, and
the sides are not symetrical. One side had a slow rolloff, while the other
had a far faster one. That explains the greater amount of high frequency
hissing in one sideband.

I opened the tuner. Four slugs are ganged together and mounted on a spring
machanism. Each slug is mounted on a coiled wire, which is soldered to
the part that moves them all together. Unlike the 2B and 2C, the slugs are
not adjustable. I really want the set to work correctly, so here is what I'm
thinking of doing:

Take out the passband tuner, mount it to a wooden board. Take the front
cover off of the tuner, and install a simple nut/bracket to simulate the
action of the tuning knob. Unsolder and free the slugs. Using the same
sweeping mechanism, adjust the slugs for 2.4 KHz, 6dB voltage, and as flat
on the top as possible. Solder back into place, reinstall into the radio.

BUT! I remember basic troubleshooting. Failures have a cause. WHY did the
passband tuner to out of tune? Caps in the circuit failed? A short
somewhere? I'll find out, but I am wondering if my method here makes sense.

Comments?

-- 
David Goncalves
W1EUJ
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Power Supply Question

[David Drake]

Hi, 
I use an Astron RS35 with my tr7 and have none of the problems you spoke of.  I 
get no dimming at all during key down or otherwise.
The Tr7 does require more current than most all of the Japanese radios.  It 
could be your Astron has a problem you would otherwise not be aware of except 
with the tr7.
Good Luck
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: James Cobb 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 12:24 PM
  Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Power Supply Question


Gents,

I'm trying to decide what I should do for a power supply for my 
TR-7.  I'll try to give the Reader's Digest version, but I have a slight 
complication.  My main power supply is an Astron RS-35M, but my TR-7 (S/N 46xx) 
generates some transmitted audio feedback in the receive audio when used with 
the RS-35M.  I've used 3 other HF radios on the Astron and none of them have 
glitched and a full alignment on the TR-7 didn't cure the problem either.  A 
few weeks ago, I tried running the high-current power lead off the Astron and 
the low-current lead from an MFJ-4125 switcher and the transmitted audio 
feedback totally disappeared.  When using only the Astron, I was also getting 
some dimming of the panel lights which does not happen with the other radios.  
My guess is that my Astron has a slight issue.  The MFJ-4125 doesn't provide 
enough current to run the whole radio which brings me to needing to do 
something about the power supply setup.  (Note:  G4ALG had posted some notes on 
a similar problem that got me to looking at this issue and his notes led me to 
run separate power lines for the high-current and low-current connections that 
fixed his problem and my problem.)

So, for long-term use, I've been considering either getting a PS-7 or 
getting a dedicated high-current supply.  I noticed yesterday that W4LGH is 
using a Jetstream 45A switcher to run his TR-7 (and whole shack, for that 
matter).  I've heard that the PS-7 is built like a tank, but I'm wondering if 
it would be wiser in the long run to buy something like the 45A switcher that I 
could use for many purposes instead of getting a PS-7 that is dedicated to the 
TR-7.  

So, I'm looking for inputs here.  I seem to be split 50-50.  Sometimes, 
I think I should just get a PS-7 and be done with it.  Other times, I think a 
new high-current unit would be fine and give me other options down the road.  
What say you?

Thanks and 73,

Dave / K8JDC 



--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] cooling fan noise

[David & Chris Drake]

Carl,
I just installed a 24v EBM-Pabst fan on the back of my TR7.  Getting 12v out of 
the radio to run at about half speed.   I then put a 2w 80 ohm resistor in 
series to slow the fan down more yet.  This is the third try at fans, and its 
now nearly undetectable, but moves enough air OUT of the radio for adequate 
cooling.  On my TR4C, I have a 12v fan with 4 of the little screw on drake feet 
like was used on the rear of radios to cushion and elevate the fan slightly 
above the top.  I position it above the final cage.  You could do the same 
thing with a TR7 or any tube radio.  I have a dual set in a frame I made 
sitting on top of my L4B and the L4PS.  Works great.
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: gypsym...@aol.com 
  To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 12:11 PM
  Subject: [Drakelist] cooling fan noise


  Hello to the group,

  Am working with my TR 5.
  Initially used a R.S. fan but was way to noisy.
  Read the archives.  Evan K9SQG said he used 220 V. ...soo
  A Boxer  230 V. with ball bearings "Pewee" starts and runs fine.
  Still to noisy.  Made neoprene washers for the metal to metal mount...no help.
  I tried closed cell foam pads under the chassis feet...no help.
  NOTED that in open air on a dining room table that it was quiet when sitting 
on a bamboo placemat.
  I am using on a desk top, with a shelf for other equipment about 6 inchs 
up.  Echo chamber no..because if I lift it up... QUIET

  Anyone with any thoughts ?
  Carl Hibbard WD8NHK



--
  Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now.


--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Heil HM-10 Microphone.

[David & Chris Drake]

Hello PSG, 
Correct regarding the impedance.  Heil does offer, or used to, an impedance 
matching transformer to allow the Heil elements to be used on Drake/Collins 
rigs.  They even sell a special cable for Drake-Collins.  However, they do not 
work well.  I have an HM10 and it barely has enough gain to use with my more 
modern SS TT Omni VI.   So, when you use the transformer, to up the impedance, 
1) it still isn't high enough to match up to the Drake tube rigs, and 2) not 
enough gain or output to run the rig properly.  I suggest you sell the Heil, 
and look for a good Shure 444(d), D-104, Drake/Astatic 7075/7077, EV 664 or 
other good vintage high impedance microphone.  The only other choice is to buy 
one of those microphone preamps like the W2IHY unit.  It has a preamp and 
matching feature, I believe.  Heil mics are good mics, but short on gain.  
Also, they work ok with an outboard or inboard microphone processor, used to up 
the gain.
73's
David 
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
  From: John Stringer 
  To: Philip Grocki ; Drakelist 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:59 AM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Heil HM-10 Microphone.


  The HC4 and HC5 elements in the HM10 are low impedance wheras the Drake 
microphone inputs are high impedance.
  Heil does make a microphone for Drake and Collins vintage radios. It has a 
built in impedance changing transformer. It is known as the GMV.
  John  GI3KDR
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net 
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]on Behalf Of Philip Grocki
Sent: 11 February 2009 05:13
To: Drakelist
Subject: [Drakelist] Heil HM-10 Microphone.


Has any of the group ever have any compatibility problems with a Heil HM-10 
microphone on Drake tube rigs?  This particular model Heil seems to be for the 
solid-state persuasion, from what I hear (??).   Thank you.

PSG


--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment

[David & Chris Drake]

Thanks John,
I was thinking that, but I could'nt understand why.  I'll give it another go at 
140-150w and see.
73's
David, wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Stringer 
  To: David & Chris Drake ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 5:28 AM
  Subject: RE: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment


  Hello David. I had the same problem when I attempted to set 80M output at a 
much lower level.In the end I went back to 140W on 80M and this gives me 100W 
at 29.5 with the ALC light extinguishing. John. GI3KDR
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net 
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]on Behalf Of David & Chris Drake
Sent: 08 February 2009 21:13
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment


Hello,
I decided to go back into my TR-7 this afternoon and do some tweeking to my 
previous alignment. (the S meter seemed to read higher than my other radios by 
quite a bit).  After re-setting the S-meter per the manual, I thought I'd go 
back over the transmitter settings and lower the output somewhat.  I had read 
somewhere that Drake liked to set the ALC board at 120w instead of the called 
for 140-150w.  The purpose being purity of emissions.  I'm using it mainly with 
an L4B, so the extra 20-30 watts means little.

Per the manual, I set the carrier fully clockwise on 14mhz, keyed the radio 
and set the ALC pot to about 120w.  Then went to 28mhz and attempted to reset 
the predriver board to get the alc light to go out.  No can do.  The pot is 
fully CCW and no more there.  I remember when I did the previous alignment set 
at about 145w on 14mhz, and then on 28mhz, the alc light just started to dim at 
fully CCW on the predriver.

Any comments as to what I should or should not be doing?  PS, its sn 5300 
or so with the version 2 predriver.
Thanks,
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment

[David & Chris Drake]

Thanks to Gary and Jim,
I think the finals in this rig are original, but not sure.  I'll look closer 
next week and play with it some more.  I had an ALC light on 28.7full 
brightness... at full CCW on the predriver with carrier control set at 
maximum CW.  I may go back to 150w and have another go at it that way, but 
it seems like that should not make a difference?


Other issues:  I had tweeked the S-meter some, but still reads high.  I've 
noticed at least 4 S-units higher than my Omni VI+ and about 5 S-units 
higher than my TR4C which I think reads a bit low.  On Calibrate, CW, on the 
null, its 20-30 over.


On the plus side, .the TR-7 receives great, had very good transmit audio 
reports, and A,B,C tests between the 3 radios are quite amazing.  You'd 
thing the Omni VI+ would knock the old Drakes dead, but NOT SO.  In fact, I 
cannot tell much difference between them.  (except when using the Omni's 
DSP)


If anyone has any ideas on the high S-meter reading, let me know, but until 
then, I'll do some more checking.


Thanks,
David

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" 

To: 
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment



On Sun, 8 Feb 2009 17:36:01 -0500, Gary Poland wrote:

If I remember correctly the explaination I got from Drake for lowering the 
power to 120 watts was for PA stability on 40 meters, keeping the 
predriver below 1/2 turn.


I ran into the 40 meter instability problem on two rigs in the 3000
serial number range, my own TR7 with 2sc2879 replacement finals and one
that I picked up recently for resale with a completely stock PA. Both
had the version 2 predriver. I found that the situation could be
improved somewhat by increasing the low frequency negative feedback at
Q2201, by reducing the value of R2203. It's possible that doing the
same thing to Q2202/R2212 might help as well. Even with this mod, the
second TR7 required a delicate balance between ALC setting and
predriver gain setting to avoid 40 Meter oscillation with specified
power out. I think I ended up with the predriver gain set just below
maximum by a little ways. There appears to be a broad but definite gain
peak in the 9.3 to 9.7 MHz area, and I believe this is responsible for
the instability problem. I don't know what the root cause is at this
point, and it does not seem to affect all units.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist






___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment

[David & Chris Drake]

Hello,
I decided to go back into my TR-7 this afternoon and do some tweeking to my 
previous alignment. (the S meter seemed to read higher than my other radios by 
quite a bit).  After re-setting the S-meter per the manual, I thought I'd go 
back over the transmitter settings and lower the output somewhat.  I had read 
somewhere that Drake liked to set the ALC board at 120w instead of the called 
for 140-150w.  The purpose being purity of emissions.  I'm using it mainly with 
an L4B, so the extra 20-30 watts means little.

Per the manual, I set the carrier fully clockwise on 14mhz, keyed the radio and 
set the ALC pot to about 120w.  Then went to 28mhz and attempted to reset the 
predriver board to get the alc light to go out.  No can do.  The pot is fully 
CCW and no more there.  I remember when I did the previous alignment set at 
about 145w on 14mhz, and then on 28mhz, the alc light just started to dim at 
fully CCW on the predriver.

Any comments as to what I should or should not be doing?  PS, its sn 5300 or so 
with the version 2 predriver.
Thanks,
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] MS 4 speaker-Drake trivia

[David & Chris Drake]

Hi, I have an older ms-4 that came with an early R4a I recently acquired.  
Interestingly, it has a speaker with an alnico magnet.  My newer Ms-4, that is 
R4C vintage, has a ceramic magnet.  Doing an A/B of the two, I think the alnico 
model sounds better, which is what I would have suspected.  Any comments here?  
Can I assume the alnico is original?  Any idea when Drake switched?
Thanks,
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay

[David & Chris Drake]

Yes John,
Just got an email from radio mart confirming no connection to this plug.  He 
said it does have the aux 7 and am filter ( or a resistor across the 
terminals).  Not sure about the cw filter.  Its just a very nice TR7.  He 
really should retract the listing.
Regards,
David
Wd9cmd


- Original Message - 
  From: John Stringer 
  To: David & Chris Drake ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 4:10 PM
  Subject: RE: [Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay


  If the definition of a genuine TR7A is one that was produced in Miamisburg I 
believe that the following 4 criteria apply with item 4 being TOTALLY critical:

  1.  Front Panel perspex strip reads TR7A.
  2.  Serial number above about 11000 (mine is 11365)
  3.The  spare RCA connector on the back is now used and labelled TX in bold 
black print.
  4.  THIS IS THE CRITICAL ONE! There is a screened lead from the RCA connector 
mentioned and it goes to the board right beside the 4 pin microphone plug. This 
lead is inextricably woven into the wiring harness that goes from back to front 
of the radio.When you look at it you will realise that this could only have 
been done at the factory.

  I believe this is a conclusive test.
  John. GI3KDR.
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net 
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]on Behalf Of David & Chris Drake
Sent: 22 January 2009 16:25
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay


HI all,
I got hi rez picks from Radio Mart.  I looked them over good.  Here's my 
opinion.  
1.  A EXTRA nice looking radio, looks little used with original gray case.  
2.  It does have the split rear panel, and the sn is 515x...can't confirm 
the last digit.
3.  TR7A face plate, that looks original.
4.  No idea of the proper boards, since no "inside" picture.
5.  No "TX" marked jack on rear panel.  Nor does the spare RCA jack have 
the black insulating washer found on most TR7A's..  My reference was 12129 that 
I previously owned, and others I've seen.  There is a TR7A on ebay at present 
priced at $950 to start.  

So for lack of more information on boards included and the lack of the 
coverted TX jack, this is no doubt a "converted" TR7.

At the end of production, Drake "may" have dumped some TR7 parts in Europe 
which included some TR7A front panels.  This may account for the Holland ham's 
recollection of "upgraded" TR7's to TR7A's.  

In any event an upgraded TR7 to a TR7A was done by Drake, but never with a 
A front panel.  This has been confirmed over and over again.  What a supplier 
did in Europe, we have no idea.  One thing is clear.  If the serial number is 
not over 11000 or so, its not a "real" or "authentic" TR7A.  It it were mine, 
I'd find a parts radio and correct the front panel !!

Simply a very nice TR7.
73's
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay

[David & Chris Drake]

HI all,
I got hi rez picks from Radio Mart.  I looked them over good.  Here's my 
opinion.  
1.  A EXTRA nice looking radio, looks little used with original gray case.  
2.  It does have the split rear panel, and the sn is 515x...can't confirm the 
last digit.
3.  TR7A face plate, that looks original.
4.  No idea of the proper boards, since no "inside" picture.
5.  No "TX" marked jack on rear panel.  Nor does the spare RCA jack have the 
black insulating washer found on most TR7A's..  My reference was 12129 that I 
previously owned, and others I've seen.  There is a TR7A on ebay at present 
priced at $950 to start.  

So for lack of more information on boards included and the lack of the coverted 
TX jack, this is no doubt a "converted" TR7.

At the end of production, Drake "may" have dumped some TR7 parts in Europe 
which included some TR7A front panels.  This may account for the Holland ham's 
recollection of "upgraded" TR7's to TR7A's.  

In any event an upgraded TR7 to a TR7A was done by Drake, but never with a A 
front panel.  This has been confirmed over and over again.  What a supplier did 
in Europe, we have no idea.  One thing is clear.  If the serial number is not 
over 11000 or so, its not a "real" or "authentic" TR7A.  It it were mine, I'd 
find a parts radio and correct the front panel !!

Simply a very nice TR7.
73's
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] Fake TR7 on ebay

[David & Chris Drake]

Hey gang, 
Ole' Radio Mart is at it again.  A TR7A with a 5xxx serial number !!  It does 
have an "A" front panel, so technically, he can claim it was sold as an A 
model, but the sn gives it away.
Its item number 250358419230 If anyone is interested.  I've asked for the hi 
rez pictures, so maybe he mis typed the sn ??  If not, I'm filing away the pics 
as a example of a fake TR7A.
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment

[David & Chris Drake]

Hi everyone, 
Just a note to the list.
As I have posted previously, I ran into a problem in the alignment of a newly 
acquired TR-7.  Alignment began just fine until I got to the VCO.  At that 
point I could not get the required 15v and 16v on the 14mhz and 28.5mhz bands  
I was about 1-1.5v short on each one.  Since the service manual says +/- 0.5v, 
I took the question to the Sunday Drake net to get input on just how close 
these settings need to be.  With advice from Jeff Covelli, I checked all power 
supply voltages aside from the 10v line.  I found my negative 5 volt line about 
a volt short (-3.97), and the 24-25v line, was only 23v.

Apparently 23v is not enough to allow the VCO to function properly.  In order 
to troubleshoot the cause/effect, I simply popped in another available power 
supply board, and began alignment anew.  This time, after setting the 10v line, 
I also checked out put on the -5v, 25v traces on the main board.  I found 24V 
exactly and -5v exactly on these traces.  Going back through alignment to the 
VCO, I was now able to set both slugs to exactly 15V and 16V respectively...and 
this time with relative ease.

The remainder of alignment went well.  

I was surprized to see how critical the power supply output is to alignment.  I 
would have assumed 23v and a -4v was adequate, however it is not.  We 
livewe learn !!

Suggest anyone doing or attempting alignment of a TR-7, check all voltage 
traces from the power supply after setting the +10v pot to exactly 10v, BEFORE 
going any further in the alignment process.

The exact problem with the first board was not determined.  I'll save that for 
a later day.

Thanks,
David 
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Power Supply Board

[David & Chris Drake]

Thanks Gary, 

I'll be working on the rig some more tonight.  

Like I said previouly, I only had 23v on the output.  Since the 15v and 16v 
alignment values on the VCO board were both short by about 1.5v, it was 
suggested by Jeff C. on the Sunday net I make sure I had 25v going to the VCO 
in order to get the required 15v and 16v during alignment.   

I had repaired the transformer core some time back by glueing it back together 
(top half in two pieces laying on the bottom of the rig), plus glueing both 
halves securely.  I did use super glue sparingly.  I now have a second 
powersupply board to substitute in.  It is an "L" board instead of a "W", so 
its a bit different in layout, but looks to be the same electrically..  
Except for a 7k resistor going to ground on the output of the 25v line instead 
of a 2.7k.  I'll see what kind of output I get from it tonight.

Anyway,,... My "quest" was to get this newly acquired TR7 to perfection.  It 
won't leave my bench till its rightno puting it aside for later.  Then I 
have a nice R4a waiting in the wings to get lined up!

This is probably good troubleshooting stuff for the list, so I'll continue to 
post regarding my alignment issues.
Best Regards,
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Poland 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 8:30 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Power Supply Board


  Make sure there is no gap between the core halves on the inverter transformer 
T2102, use hot glue or RTV to hold it in place. There should be close to 30 vdc 
going into the 78L24 regulator, U2103. I have also replaced C2117 with a .033 
and C2115 with a .047 to increase the voltage. Output is typically 23.6vdc or 
better.

  73, Gary W8PU
  http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu




--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Board History and head scratching

[David & Chris Drake]

Thanks Jim,
Oh, and one board has the "called for" 2.7k resistor to ground on the 25v 
line, and the other one has a 7k resistor that looks original.  None of my 
schematics show any change called for.  Changing out the caps might be a 
good idea.

David
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Board History and head scratching



Hi David,

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:43:46 -0500, David & Chris Drake wrote:


Looking for some historical information on Drake TR-7 boards.


Welcome to the world of undocumented changes. User information like
what you have provided helps add data points for the collective.


All this started because during an alignment, I could'nt get the required 
voltage on the VCO board, (shy by around 1-1.5v) and found I only had 22 
volts going in instead of 24-25v.


I can't answer your specific questions about the board changes, but I
would recommend replacing the electrolytic caps on the PS boards -
expecially C2108. They are getting old, and strange things can happen
as they go bad.

73

-Jim

--
Ham Radio NU0C
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist






___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Board History and head scratching

[David & Chris Drake]

Hi to all,
Looking for some historical information on Drake TR-7 boards.  I have before me 
two DR-7 boards, one being green, and labeled C-3849 R.  The second board is 
beige in color and looks to be a bit better quality.  It is labeled C-3849 W.  
I also see that the circuitry is slightly different.  Is the W a newer board?

Next up, the power supply boards.  Also have two before me, both green, one 
labeled B-3970 L and the other is B-3970 W.  Again, the circuitry is slightly 
different.  The later has a 0.05 ceramic cap bridgeing the center taps of the 
two onboard transistors.  The L board has the same cap, but , its on the 
circuit board.  Both have additional resistors on the bottom across R2129 and 
R2130.  On the W board these appear to be 66 ohm each (if my eyes are seeing 
correct).  The L board has resistors in the same position and these are 68 ohm 
resistors (ok, close).  By the schematic, (and I have both the original 78 
manual and the 80 revised editions), these two "on board" resistors should be 
15 ohms.  Checking both boards, (I did'nt pull the resistors to check their 
value), they are in fact marked 15 ohm and are carbon comp.  Simple 
calculations net out just a shade over 12 ohms equivalent.  I realize its not a 
big difference, but why was it done?  Increase the current to the T-2101 
Transformer?  Which in turn would raise the voltage on the 25v line?

So, the questions are, 1) Whats the history in the labeling, and 2) Are the 
bridging resistors on the underside of both power supply boards factory wiring?

All this started because during an alignment, I could'nt get the required 
voltage on the VCO board, (shy by around 1-1.5v) and found I only had 22 volts 
going in instead of 24-25v.

Thanks in advance for your input.
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Drake QSO

[David & Chris Drake]

For all that may be interested, here's the announcement from CX for the vintage 
radio contests upcoming; http://www.qsl.asti.com/CX/Feb2009announcement.html 

A good way to have some fun with the Drakes !!
Thanks,
David 
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Tucker 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 8:50 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] Drake QSO


  I had just finished going through my C-line and cleaning everything including 
switches and buttoning it back up.  I set it up in my operating position and 
after warm up put out a CQ on 80 cw.  W0CCA, in western CO came back and we had 
a long rag chew.  Cap was running his Drake B line.  What a pleasant 
coincidence.  Couldn't have planned it better.  Cap and I also use Drake R4A or 
B with DX 60s for some cw work.  

  Rick
  W0RT


--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Drake QSO

[David & Chris Drake]

Rick, 
As info, you can put the "tubers" to good use on CW in a couple weeks, and 
SSB/AM in February.  Classic Exchange or "CX" is sponsoring contests twice per 
year for antique or nostalgia radios.  You receive a 'multiplier' for the age 
of the equipement used.  See the Arrl Website for details at : 
http://www.arrl.org/news/features/2009/01/09/10557/?nc=1
Have fun with those Drakes !!
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Tucker 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 8:50 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] Drake QSO


  I had just finished going through my C-line and cleaning everything including 
switches and buttoning it back up.  I set it up in my operating position and 
after warm up put out a CQ on 80 cw.  W0CCA, in western CO came back and we had 
a long rag chew.  Cap was running his Drake B line.  What a pleasant 
coincidence.  Couldn't have planned it better.  Cap and I also use Drake R4A or 
B with DX 60s for some cw work.  

  Rick
  W0RT


--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Hammarlund

[David & Chris Drake]

Bill,
If you need any help, let me know, I've refurb'd several of them.
Good luck,
David
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
From: "Al Parker" 

To: "billjhs" ; 
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Hammarlund



Hi Bill,
   2 good ones are:
www.hammarlund.info   &
www.boatanchors.org
   Take a look at the "H-Files" on the first one, you should see the 
original ads, maybe more.
   The same sight might have manuals for each, if not, let me know.  You 
could also find them on http://bama.sbc.edu/ .

   (I love my Drakes, and my Hammarlunds)
73,
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"there is nothing -absolutely nothing- half as much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."

  Ratty, to Mole


- Original Message - 
From: "billjhs" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 7:46 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] Hammarlund


Sorry guys, I know this doesn't have anything to do with Drakes (I love 
my r4/t4x) but does anyone know of good Hammarlund websites. I acquired 
an hq 100 and 110, I would like to get more info on them..

73
Bill Wa2jhs


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist






___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] Looking for a T-4 Any

[David & Chris Drake]

Hi
Thanks to all who responded to date.  To be more specific, I'd prefer a B model 
if possible, but won't overlook a T-4x or even a "reciter", but the reciters 
are pretty scarce, and likely in poor shape.  Then there's the filter issue to 
contend with...4 versus 8 poles.  I'd even consider a C if the price was right. 
 A "B or C" would fit the best for everyday use.

I've really grown to like this A receiver.  I was going to simply fix it up and 
pass it along, but then thought I'd put a set together and use it.  You guys 
and gals know how that goes!!??  Yep, have to build another shelf to add more 
Drakes.  I seem to have a hard time parting with them !!

I'm in no particular hurry.  I'm sure a transmitter will come along.
Thanks,
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] Looking for a T-4 any

[David & Chris Drake]

Hi to all.
Looking for a T-4 any at a reasonable price to go with a R4a I have just 
completed refurbishment.  Receiver works great and needs a partner !!  Chassis 
needs to be clean and without corrosion if possible.  Respond direct to 
dra...@psci.net
Thanks,
David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C

[David & Chris Drake]

No Lee, none of us ever seem to learn.  Just figure its in your genes 
somewhere to rescue one of the beloved from the ashes behold the original 
joy of the soft glow of the valves.

David
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
From: "LEE BAHR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "drakelist" 
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C


Well, I never learn.  I saw a TR-4C with a nice front panel, no cabinet 
screws, missing one small knob, no relay, burned out 1/2 watt resistor on 
relay board, missing 7 small tubes, missing two crystals, and no pilot 
lamps just loose lamp sockets.  I also was told the multi section can 
electrolytic on the radio is bad.  Lots of dirt and dust but no corrosion. 
No idea if it needs more work besides cleaning, lubricating, and 
alignment.  Who know what shape the finals are in.


BUT, I had to have it.  It was sitting on my local ham dealer's work bench 
for years.  (Oh, I'm sure the blue dial lenses are washed out too).  It 
has no noise blanker.  I picked it up for a fair price if you figure the 
parts value.  If you figure what I have to put into it, maybe $100 if I 
have no unexpected suprises without counting my labor, I figure I could 
maybe sell it working for around $50 under my actual parts cost.  That is, 
if the finals still work and the filters are good.  Otherwise it could 
swallow up another $200 to $250.  What a deal.  It had to be rescued.  Was 
I wrong? Was I bad?  Whats the matter with me?


Now I need to buy a MS-4 and AC-4 and then rebuild the AC-4 too!  I must 
be sick!


Lee, w0vt



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist






___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Frequency Problem

[David & Chris Drake]

Terry, 
First check the TR7 power supply board for exactly +10v.  This is the rightmost 
pot and you can measure the 10v next to it on the top of a resistor as I 
recall.  Go to wb4hfn.com and you should find info on where to measure this.  
This is not the best place to measure and adjust, but easy for starters.  The 
+10v pot is easy to bump and knock off.  Certainly, ... don't touch it until 
you've measured the +10v.  When it is off (more or less than +10v), this can 
effect most every circuit in the radio.  Resetting to +10v might solve the 
problem in the short run, but any change to this setting usually requires a 
full alignment.  The 10v is properly set by taking measurement on a trace on 
the motherboard.  You'll need the service manual for this one. And a high 
quality DVM.

While you are looking at the power supply board, look down about half way to 
the little transformer and make sure it is all in one piece.  Sometimes the 
core comes loose and falls away.  This makes for all kinds of stability 
problems, not to mention causing an "unlock" to the freq. display.

If the +10v supply is spot on, I'd suggest a full alignment.  Again, you'll 
need the service manual for that one.

I'm sure others on this list have far more experience than I regarding a 
specific problem on 160, so I'll defer to their comments.

David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 8:51 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Frequency Problem


  My TR-7 has developed a frequency problem. When turned on with the bandswitch 
on 160m, the frequency readout showed a frequency of 17600-17800 Khz and was 
jittery. After warmup of a half hour or so, it would start working and and show 
1870 Khz like it should. Now, it doesn't show 1870 khz at all and stays in the 
17600-17800 range even after warm up. Neither the RX or TX is working.

  However when I push the RCT button and go to my R-7 for frequency control, 
everything is working correctly and I am on 1870 Khz and the RX and TX is fine. 
When I switch to transmit the TR-7 readout shows 1870 Khz. When I go to RX then 
it goes back to 17600-17800 Khz.  So where should I start looking in the TR-7 
to find the problem? Is this a known problem that someone else has experienced 
or a new one? Any help someone could offer would be appreciated.

  Terry, 
W8NJR






--
  Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one 
place. Try it now.


--


  ___
  Drakelist mailing list
  Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7 and R7

[David & Chris Drake]

I'd say the rig was used for swl purposes, and the owner was trying to get 
maximum sensitivity out of it, although questionable how much more, if any. 
I seem to remember this mod on one of the swl lists/sites.

David
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7 and R7



Hi John,

On Wed, 3 Dec 2008 21:06:24 -, John Stringer wrote:

1. The RIT on the R7 should be about plus or minus 3khz It has been 
modified

to plus or minus 200hz. Yes 200hz. Why?


Probably the same reason I reduced the range on the RIT control in my
HR2510. WHen using the RIT as a "fine tune" control, you're not usually
going more than a couple of hundred Hertz, at the most. There's really
not much need for 6 KHz of range, and reducing the range makes it
easier to fine tune with that tiny knob.



2. An SO239 has been installed on the back panel



A. Connect the antenna to the SO239 so bypassing the Antenna Switch.

B.Install a jumper between the SO239 and the spare RCA socket and put the
antenna into its proper RCA connector so routing the antenna via the 
Antenna

Switch--in other words the normal way.



That's an interesting one. My fisrt thought is to allow the user to
bypass the antenna selector, as the splitter has some loss through it.
There is theoretical 3 dB dignal drop through any two-way splitter
(half the signal goes to each port),  plus circuit losses, which
typically adds up to 3.5 to 4 dB in the real world. However, I was
looking at the schematic just a couple of nights ago, and it appears
that the splitter circuit is bypassed when the antenna selector is set
to Main/Alt ... which would make sense. This would leave and small
(probably insignifigant) loss in the cables and switch itself.

In light of that, the only thing that really makes sense me is pehaps
the owner wanted to use the antenna selector to feed two other radios
other than the R7 from one of two antennas, at the same time the R7 was
being used on a third antenna. Or maybe that it was an easy place to
put a real antenna connector, and the owner elected to bypass what was
essentially an unused feature when the radio was used in that
configuration, or the isolation between ports wasn't sufficient for
some reason.

Maybe someone else has a more obscure reason?

73

-Jim
NU0C




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist






___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] L4B Troubleshooting Help

[David & Chris Drake]

Hi all,

Previously, I believe I discussed with some of you an L4B I recently acquired.  
To recap,..Looked good cosmetically, internals looked good with no visual 
burnt or dark areas and no signs of arcing.  However, when fired up, I found 
that the plate current read around 2000v on low plate and 3000v on high plate 
(ssb).  This seems way high to me (read on the rf unit meter).  During this 
short time, the power supply got very warm.  Also when switching from cw to 
ssb, the deck and supply made some noise (vibration or oscilation somewhere).  
At that point, I decided to rebuild the power supply as a first step to be sure 
I had the correct and clean b+.  A fairly old unit by serial number, so I 
figured it was due before I went any further.

Now we are all up to date.

I just completed re-building the L4 supply with a kit from Harbach Electronics. 
 The kit went well, and from start to finish, it took about 2 hours time.  I 
tripple checked all the solder joints and connections.  Having no 220 variac, 
and not wanting to convert both the deck and supply to 110 and back again, I 
chose to plug it in and see how it goes.  

At first all seemed fine.  The amp was idleing with no rig or antenna 
connected.  The power supply stayed way cooler than before and all seemed ok so 
far.  Everything lit up, filaments lights, meters ect.  However, I still saw 
around 1900v on the cw position (low plate).  After a few minutes, I flipped 
the switch to high plate(ssb), heard a "boing" sound, saw 2900v on the meter, 
and a lot of noise and oscillation from the RF deck.  I quickly pulled the 
plug.  I could not tell for sure, but the most of the noise seemed to be coming 
from the rear of the rf deck near or from the transformer.   

I don't have any high voltage volt meters (past 1500v) so I can't check any 
contacts directly.  Any suggestions on troubleshooting???.I don't think 
things are right !!

David
Wd9cmd___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist