[Drakelist] subscribe

[john battin]

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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[Drakelist] Replies to VK3ZA requert for TR7 Help

[John Bennett]

Many and sincere thanks to all those 23 Amateurs Worldwide who responded  to my 
request for a picture of the  TR7 Home Board.

I have emailed direct to the gentleman who sent some excellent photos.

Thanks again,

John Bennett  VK3ZA___
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[Drakelist] Fw: DRAKE TR7 HELP

[John Bennett]

 




Subject: DRAKE TR7 HELP


Could one of our beloved TR7 owners please send me a CLEAR picture of 'Figure 
2-1, Parent Board Pictorial', from the TR7 Service Manual.

Figure 2-1 in my photo copy is illegible.

 I bought my TR7 in 1980 and it has given faultless service.

However, right now I'm trying to bring it back to life after a Courier dropped 
it from a great height during my changing address.

Your help will be greatly appreciated,

John Bennett

VK3ZA  --  macb...@bigpond.com
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[Drakelist] Elecraft Neogrip for TR7 VFO knobs

[John Grimm]

I bought several of the K3 Neogrips from Elecraft for my TR7/RV75 VFO knobs.  
Perfect fit, slides right on and off of the existing VFO knob with no 
modification required.  Makes such a huge tactile difference versus the hard 
plastic knob.  Looks okay too.


Just FYI but for $17 can't go wrong!


John / K0YQ
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[Drakelist] Drake TR4 Info

[John Back]

Hi Guys

I am looking for a good photo of the top and bottom of the circuit 
board in the Drake TR4 PTO. If you have these photos please email them 
to me I really need them.


73 John WJ4PB

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[Drakelist] K4DPK PTO Stabilizer Install

[John Back]

Does any one have any pics of the K4DPK PTO Stabilizer they would share 
with me. These pics would make component identification much easier. Any 
help on this install would be appreciated.


73 John WJ4PB

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[Drakelist] FOR SALE; DRAKE 7 SERIES components

[John Heppleston]

I am in the process of down sizing and will be reluctantly selling some
radio equipment. The present list is as follows;

- DRAKE- DR7 TRANSCEIVER, PS7 POWER SUPPLY, MN7 MATCHING NETWORK, RV7
REMOTE VFO, MS7 SPEAKER
 This equipment was serviced and calibrated at the DRAKE factory prior to
my purchase from the original owner. I have never transmitted on this
equipment (due to moving and work load). CDN $1250.00 OBO.

- TEN-TEC CENTURY 22, never used by me.  CDN $150.00

- KENWOOD R-2000 General Coverage Receiver. CDN $250.00

- HEATH KIT SB610 scope. CDN $100.00

Prices are negotiable to a certain degree however this is not a give away.
The equipment is in good working condition and the prices are fair.
Shipping can be discussed at the time of purchase, to keep costs down and
insure a safe delivery.

Thank you (73)
VE6HEP
John Heppleston
cell (587) 991-7939
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[Drakelist] L75 thermostat

[John Grimm]

Is it normal for the L75 fan to rapidly move between hi and low?  When my amp 
starts to heat up with use, the fan goes back and forth repeatedly between hi 
and lo.  3 seconds hi, 3 low, etc.  It sounds like my kids playing Grand Theft 
Auto and drives me nuts.  It will toggle like this until it really gets cooking 
(goes to high), or cycles back to low when cools off.  Is this normal behavior 
for the thermostat?  I'd rather just wire the fan to be on high all the time.  
Maybe need a new thermostat?
 
Thanks for any help.
 
John / K0YQ 
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[Drakelist] Help wirk Drake TR7 faults

[John Bennett]

Hello to the Group.

Seeking help with my TR7, bought new in 1979. The Drake TR7 is quite uncommon 
in Australia; info hard to find

Problem 1. Tuning: Each division movement of the main dial moves the digital 
display 1,8kHz up or down  and the same on TX /RX. The Digital Display counter 
has been checked against a laboratory standard and is perfectly accurate.
Why does this happen? This fault makes the rig useless.

Problem  2.  There is an instability problem in the bands above 14MHz.  The 
display goes crazy and does not lock. Higher bands useless. Why?

Problem  3. There is no or erratic keying on CW. Why?

This aged ham, licenced 1950,  needs a fellow Ham with comprehensive knowledge 
of the wonderful Drake TR7.
Clues, ideas, thoughts  or threads I can follow greatly appreciated.

VK2SIG
John Bennett, LTC Retd
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[Drakelist] Hi

[john]

http://letsgetyouhired.net/song.php?4wreuhqtcw0o23









John Winn
w9...@aol.com




Obscenity is such a tiny kingdom that a single tour covers it completely. -- 
Heywood Broun
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

[john]

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[Drakelist] R-4C Sherwood mods

[John Boyle]

I just acquired an R-4C, s/n 23xxx, in excellent condition.  It has the 3 CW 
filters and the 6kc AM filter, but no other changes.  It works well but has an 
S7 background noise that is not present on my Ten Tec Corsair II.  I'm planning 
on installing several of the Sherwood mods, but not all ot once.  What mods 
would produce the most improvement and in what order should they be 
incorporated?  I can do the work myself.  I have the original owners manual 
with the schematic #11017421000.  Thanks for your help.

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Re: [Drakelist] My T4XCand R4C fired up

[John King]

Thanks for the reminder, Lee. I will stay aware of that. 73, John, K5PGW





On Friday, February 7, 2014 8:29 AM, "kc9...@aol.com"  wrote:
 
John,
Congrats!
I use my Drake stuff daily.
 
Depending on how long it's been since the power supply(s) have been rebuilt, 
you may want to do that
There are 2 different kits available to do the AC-4's.
73,
Lee
 
-Original Message-
From: John King 
To: Drakelist 
Sent: Fri, Feb 7, 2014 12:17 am
Subject: [Drakelist] My T4XCand R4C fired up


Today, I fired up my T4XC and R4C and checked into a net with them. All of my 
Drakes have been roosting for several years and I have displayed them all on 
new shelves on one side of my shack. After those years of resting, they 
performed well and I got an S9 plus 20DB signal report barefoot on 75 meters 
from several hundred miles away. Made me fall in LOVE all over again!!!

Tomorrow, I will fire up my TR3 and maybe my R4 and T4X . Makes me feel a warm 
glow when my  beautiful old gals do their thing.  


Just had to tell someone!! 73, John, K5PGW

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Re: [Drakelist] My T4XCand R4C fired up

[John King]

Thanks, Adrain. I appriciate you sharing my feelings about the beautiful old 
gear. 73, John, K5PGW 





On Friday, February 7, 2014 6:19 AM, Adriano  wrote:
 
I know the feeling John...that's why i mainly use my C line , my Geloso line 
and used to listen through with my Hammarlund Sp-600 . I do have modern rigs 
but ..knobs and switches is lots of fun and yes, they perform very nice, still !

Enjoy your "old lads"  !

'73 de Adrian iz3svi




>- Messaggio Originale -
>
>Da:
"John King" 
>
>A:"Drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
>
>Cc:
>
>Inviato:Thu, 6 Feb 2014 21:14:57 -0800 (PST)
>
>Oggetto:[Drakelist] My T4XCand R4C fired up
>
>
>
>Today, I fired up my T4XC and R4C and checked into a net with them. All of my 
>Drakes have been roosting for several years and I have displayed them all on 
>new shelves on one side of my shack. After those years of resting, they 
>performed well and I got an S9 plus 20DB signal report barefoot on 75 meters 
>from several hundred miles away. Made me fall in LOVE all over again!!!
>
>
>Tomorrow, I will fire up my TR3 and maybe my R4 and T4X . Makes me feel a warm 
>glow when my  beautiful old gals do their thing.  
>
>
>
>Just had to tell someone!! 73, John, K5PGW
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[Drakelist] My T4XCand R4C fired up

[John King]

Today, I fired up my T4XC and R4C and checked into a net with them. All of my 
Drakes have been roosting for several years and I have displayed them all on 
new shelves on one side of my shack. After those years of resting, they 
performed well and I got an S9 plus 20DB signal report barefoot on 75 meters 
from several hundred miles away. Made me fall in LOVE all over again!!!

Tomorrow, I will fire up my TR3 and maybe my R4 and T4X . Makes me feel a warm 
glow when my  beautiful old gals do their thing.  


Just had to tell someone!! 73, John, K5PGW
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[Drakelist] Need Help With T-4XC

[John Meyer]

My T-4XC tunes up normally in the tune mode. When I switch to CW and key down I 
get full output no matter where the gain control is set. The only way I can 
reduce output is to detune the RF tune control.
 
John Meyer K8IHY
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Re: [Drakelist] L4B power supply

[John King]

Thanks Jim. That is a wonderful technical article. I will certainly follow it. 
I have never soldered brass rod. Is it difficult? Any special solder required? 
I really appreciate your assistance. 73, John, K5PGW





On Friday, January 17, 2014 9:50 PM, Jim Shorney  wrote:
 

This may be the droid you are looking for:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/ElectrolyticRelacements.htm

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 18:06:14 -0800 (PST), John King wrote:

>I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of 
>the eight cap previously changed. At least one 50K 50 watt bleeder appears 
>open. I plan to replace all caps, diodes and resistors. Not interested in 
>changing layout of supply or redesigning it physically.
>
>Is there a replacement board other than the one from Heath shop? I have eight 
>new 470 MFD @ 450 VDC caps with both terminals + and - on the same end. New 
>caps 105 degree rated about 1/2 the height of the original caps.
>
>Anyone have suggestions for a rebuild? Please reply directly. Thank and 73, 
>John, K5PGW
>

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[Drakelist] L4B power supply

[John King]

I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of the 
eight cap previously changed. At least one 50K 50 watt bleeder appears open. I 
plan to replace all caps, diodes and resistors. Not interested in changing 
layout of supply or redesigning it physically.

Is there a replacement board other than the one from Heath shop? I have eight 
new 470 MFD @ 450 VDC caps with both terminals + and - on the same end. New 
caps 105 degree rated about 1/2 the height of the original caps.

Anyone have suggestions for a rebuild? Please reply directly. Thank and 73, 
John, K5PGW
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[Drakelist] Thanks

[John King]

Thanks, Garey, Evan and Lee. I will dig into it in a day or so, but do no 
repair until I feel human again. I have over 40 stitches in my forehead and 
face. Will not know whether they got it all for a week. I told the doctor that 
when asked what happened I would tell folks that it wasn't a brain transplant 
because my brain wouldn't require that size incision. 73, John, K5PGW
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[Drakelist] "grunting L4B"

[John King]

Yesterday, I turned my L4B on and the tubes lit up and the blower ran and the 
plate voltage was up to par.

Today, I turned the L4B on and I heard a loud buzz/grunt. The breakers did not 
trip in the power supply. I turned the AMP off and scratched my head.

I suspect the filter caps in the HV power supply. There was no HV showing on 
the meter . I left the power supply on for only 2 or 3 seconds. I have 8 new 
caps to replace the old ones with, but I just had surgery yesterday and can't 
get up enough steam to check it out.

I am wondering if any of you have witnessed the way your power supply acted 
when the capacitors shorted? Your experience? Thanks and 73, John, K5PGW
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[Drakelist] L4-B ALC/Standby Switch

[John Meyer]

Anyone out there have a solution to replacing this control?
 
John Meyer K8IHY
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

[john . roccaro]

referral program http://goldenmax.ru/134604.php







From: john.roccaro 9/3/2013 4:17:06 PM

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

[john . roccaro]

referral program http://turkuaz-gmbh.com/749211.php







From: john.roccaro 8/25/2013 5:29:12 AM

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[Drakelist] -

[John V odenik]

The TR-4C and the "C" line also have been sold.
Thanks all.

73 de WB9AUJ
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[Drakelist] TR-4C for sale I have a TR-4C that I need to sell to help pay medical bills.

[John V odenik]

 Thanks for your time. I would like to get $300.00 for the set.

TR4-C
AC4-D supply
MS-4 speaker

This radio also has the HV cap replacement mod partly installed and working.
Voltages appear to be good.Mainly cosmetic . Also appears to have a
dirty band switch.

73 de WB9AUJ
John Vodenik
1-513-`398-5968 any time
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[Drakelist] "c" Line twins for sale

[John V odenik]

I have a pair of "C" line twins. I need to sell them to help medical bills.
I would like to get $700.0 for them or best offer.

R4C
TX4C
MS-4 AC-4 with the hv cap replacement mod

I would like to sell them in the Cincinnati, OH area.
I am legally blind in my left eye and can't drive any more.

Thanks for your time.
73 from  WB9AUJ
John Vodenik
1513 -358-5968 any time
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[Drakelist] SR-2000

[John V odenik]

The rig has  been sold.  Thanks all. 73 de WB9AUJ
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[Drakelist] Drake TR4C for sale

[John V odenik]

Looking to sell my TR4C. Needs small bit of work. Band switch I guess. I
would
really like to keep this rig, but medical b ills getting deep.

TR4C
AC-4 power supply. Started to do HV mod, but cant see it that well, but the
voltages look correct. Mod almost finished.
Thanks for your time.
John Vodenik
WB9AUJ
 1-513-398-5908
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[Drakelist] Halllicrafters SR-2000 for sale

[John V odenik]

I have a SR-2000 I would like to sell. I bought it from the Hallicrafters
service manager.  He informed me that this rig was one of the
engineering proto type rigs  Last time I had it running, I was
getting a good 600 watts.

I would like to get $500.00

As before, thanks for your time.
73 de WB9AUJ
John Vodenik
1-513-398-5968 any time
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4C frequency

[John Brown]

I have 2 R4-C's and which behave in much the same way. I believe the PTO
generally is not exactly linear from one end of its range to the other.

Regards

JB

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Henry Foglesong
Sent: Tuesday, 16 July 2013 3:10 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R-4C frequency

 

I just recently obtained an R-4C, made some upgrades to it, and aligned it.
It is working very well with one small issue:

 

On all bands, if I set the frequency to the calibrator at the low end, at
the high end the dial readout is high by one or more khz when set to the
calibrator (depending on the band width).  I assume the issue is with the
pto, but since I have had little experience with the R-4C, I would like
suggestions about the easiest way to correct the problem before I dig into
anything.

 

Note:  I have checked the calibrator with other frequency standards, and it
is on the money.

 

Thanks,

 

Hank

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[Drakelist] TR4CW/RIT

[John Cox]

I have a TR4CW/RIT That I would like to sell.
I sent it to Ron Baker for repairs and it ended up needing a mode switch.
He said that it wouldn't be cost effective (because of the hours involved)
for him to replace it but it would be a good winter project for some one
with good eyes.
I would like to get $500 for it.
Email me for pictures and more detail on Ron and my conversation.
John Cox K6HSG
Tucson, Arizona
jelton...@gmail.com
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Re: [Drakelist] The Heathkit Shop

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

Awesome!!

John N. Hudson III, Communications  Coordinator
4050 Taylor St, MS 243
San Diego, CA 92110
6192509063 Cell




On Feb 18, 2013, at 9:22 AM, "Mike Bryce"  wrote:

> Boys 
> 
> I'm alive and kicking. Will have the shop back up and running. Right now, I'm 
> trying to catch my breath, and build up stock to shorten shipping times
> 
> mike
> 
> wb8vge
> 
> the heathkitshop
> 
> 
> On Feb 17, 2013, at 9:47 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
> 
>> I emailed him about 2 weeks ago asking if his AC-4 rebuild
>> kit was going to be available again any time soon, and so
>> far have received no answer.
>> 
>> I hope he is OK...
>> 
>> 73
>> K1NR 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, 17 Feb 2013 18:16:40 +0100
>> "Bob DeHaney"  wrote:
>>> Seems to be closed indefinitely...
>>> 
>>> Vy 73, Bob DJ0RD/WU5T
>>> 
>>> Message: 3
>>> Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 06:46:22 -0500
>>> From: "Robert Look" 
>>> To: 
>>> Subject: [Drakelist] Amp Keyer Interface
>>> Message-ID:
>>> <5B5890311E7D4F259883D128C58BDE8C@winpro757b2579>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>> 
>>> I thought I would pass this along to the list:
>>> 
>>> I recently bought Mike's WB8VGE (Heathkit Shop) AmpKeyer
>>> and used it to
>>> interface my L4B with my 2NT.  I use a Y-cable attached
>>> to the VFO Key port
>>> on the back of the 2NT. The one side goes directly to the
>>> HA5 VFO and the
>>> other goes to the AmpKeyer. The AmpKeyer in turn connects
>>> to the L4B.  
>>> 
>>> It's a great product, easy to use, well made, and costs
>>> about the same as a
>>> tank of gas.  
>>> 
>>> Bob W8JHA
>>> -- next part --
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>> <http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20130217/940709
>>> fd/attachment-0001.html>
>>> 
>>> --
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 56, Issue 13
>>> *
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
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>> 
>> -
>> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
>> http://www.nni.com/
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> 
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> 


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Re: [Drakelist] Drake Enthusiasts and Holidays

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

Thank you Evan, may I also add my appreciation to all those who've contributed 
this year to the Drake reflector.

Merry Christmas,

John N. Hudson III, WA6HYQ




On Dec 24, 2012, at 9:20 AM, "K9sqg" mailto:k9...@aol.com>> 
wrote:

Fellow Drake Enthusiasts,

I would like to take this opportunity to say Merry Christmas and Happy New 
Year.  I hope that you will be blessed with good health, happiness, and that 
your Drake dreams will be fulfilled.

73,

Evan, K9SQG
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-3

[John King]

Should you buy a TR3? I think the answer should be given after determining what 
he plans to do with it. One reason to purchase a Drake TR3 is the historic 
value to the hobby.I have been licensed for almost 54 years and have grown with 
the hobby from 6AG7/807 tube transmitter and Hallicrafters S40A receiver. They 
were wonderful for the purpose for which they were built and intended to been 
used. They are not my gear that I use regularly, but they bring back wonderful 
memories. I have one hundred of more radios from 1940 until present. I am NOT A 
COLLECTOR but I accumulate tube type radios of all manufacturers because of 
what they were and what they still are. Swan was pioneer in the transceiver 
field and did a great job from the SW 175 and continued for many years, even 
after being bought out by Cubic Communications.


The TR3 is historic because it was R.L. Drake's FIRST transceiver. I HAVE A TR3 
THAT I BOUGHT REASONABLY OFF EBAY IN NON WORKING CONDITION AND VERY DIRTY. 
Today it is a nice looking and working radio. Do I use it everydayNO!! WHY? 
I have the first model receiver that Drake built, the Drake 1A serial number 
518 of 1000 built. When built, it was arguably the best receiver made in its' 
day( I also own a Collins 75A1, 75A2, and 75A4, for comparison). l am not 
bragging, just pointing out my perspective. I own a Drake 2A. Drake 2B, TR4 
(that I use almost daily for net operation, R4, T4X,R4B,R4C,and T4XC and a 
great Drake L4B amp. No, they are not the $10,000.00+, Icom or the latest 
Kenwood, Orion or other solid state rig. 


The TR3 basically popularized the use of transceivers. There are many hams 
today who may not be able to operate separates. Other companies had gotten into 
the transceiver production, but not as affordable and basic as the TR3.

My suggestion is that if you expect an almost "owner inability" rig to repair, 
digital readout with 3,000 memories, 65 push buttons, DON'T BUY the TR3, BUT 
"SOME DAY' you might wish you could find one to buy. 

This is not intended to start a THREAD, it is just my opinion. If anyone wants 
to attack my opinion, don't bother the reflector with it, feel free to reply 
DIRECTLY to me.  73, John, K5PGW

    



 

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2012 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
 

On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:



Being a relative newbie to Drake equipment, is there any particular areas to 
consider with the TR3 other than the obvious and general operating condition?
>?I don't recall anything negative in particular about this vintage radio.

For one, it's a terrible CW radio...if that matters to you.

73 de Lee
--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA

www.aa4ga.com


Submit your totals to the unofficial QRP DXCC standings - go 
to http://www.aa4ga.com/p/qrp-dxcc.html for more info!


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Re: [Drakelist] Thinking of buying Drake TR-4C

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

Gary,

I have several Drakes including a TR4C and NO without out modification they are 
NOT a good AM transmitter. IF AM is what you want to do, find a real AM 
transmitter such as a Johnson (Name your posion) I own a Johnson Viking-II for 
AM, or Heathkit DX-40, 60, 100, there are old Broadcast Transmitters available 
that won't fill your garage but provide 250 watts on AM etc. Some folks use 
yaesu's, FT-101's, I've been known to run my Icom-775DSP but Drake NO. I 
hangout on 3870KHz with the AMI guys and when someone comes on the air with a 
Drake its very noticeable almost looks like a sideband signal because of the 
controlled carrier signal.

I hope this helps,

John.

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On 
Behalf Of Gary Taggart
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2012 9:44 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Thinking of buying Drake TR-4C

I am considering buying a Drake TR-4C for AM HF use. Is this a good choice? I’m 
not sure of the condition of the transceiver at this time.

Gary Taggart
KF0TW

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Load Bank

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

That would be a useful test jig.


John N. Hudson III, Communications  Coordinator
4050 Taylor St, MS 243
San Diego, CA 92110
6192509063 Cell




On Nov 24, 2012, at 1:37 PM, "Eugene Balinski"  wrote:

> All,
> 
>   Just wondering if anyone has put together an AC-4 load
> or test bank ?  If so, could you share the plans ?  
> 
> I would like something that would allow one to connect the
> AC-4. switch on the AC, and measure the various voltage
> levels on test point, and perhaps even load the supply.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> 73  Gene K1NR
> -
> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
> http://www.nni.com/
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] Please unsubscribe me from this list

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

I'm sure you guys are kidding... Just another Drake owner looking for help.. As 
I said earlier I saw a knob on e-bay.

Oh, I'll stay on the list.

John, WA6HYQ.




On Nov 14, 2012, at 18:30, "David Goncalves" 
mailto:davegoncal...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Yeah, this email was the last straw for me as well - unsubscribe me too.

Gaddamn hamfists mashing knobs...

David Goncalves - with the light touch...

On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 7:52 AM, 
mailto:centi...@nym.hush.com>> wrote:
Please unsubscribe me from this list

On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 at 5:42 PM, "MARK DOSSETT" 
mailto:markjdoss...@gmail.com>> wrote:
The band change knob on my MN-2000 broke in half the other day. Is there a 
source for suitable replacement?

--
Mark J Dossett - K6MJD




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--
David Goncalves
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Re: [Drakelist] MN-2000 Band Change Knob

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

I believe there are a couple on E-Bay

John N. Hudson III, Communications  Coordinator
4050 Taylor St, MS 243
San Diego, CA 92110
6192509063 Cell




On Nov 14, 2012, at 7:01, "Curt Nixon" 
mailto:cptc...@flash.net>> wrote:

If you can't find an exact item, I saw one that is very close I think on 
Surplus Sales of Nebraska web site.  I need one also but have not had time to 
check the size yet.

I have one of the old-style mil bar knobs with the metal back pc keyed onto the 
shaft flat to reduce the stress on the bakelite.  I was thinking of cutting 
that down a bit to fit.  THe switch detents are so stiff in the 2000, the knobs 
really take a beating and I can never keep them tight.

Curt
KU8L

On 11/13/2012 8:38 PM, MARK DOSSETT wrote:
The band change knob on my MN-2000 broke in half the other day. Is there a 
source for suitable replacement?

--
Mark J Dossett - K6MJD






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Re: [Drakelist] ham item for sale

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

Jim really?

We've had guys unsubscribe in the past over actions and comments like this. Of 
course Thom has the final say but the reason this group is so cool and not 
cluttered is the focus. Is it too much to ask for the list to continue its 
"charter" of being the Drake list? There are many "HAM" lists to use, this is 
the what list?

De WA6HYQ



On Oct 26, 2012, at 7:40, "Jim Pruitt" 
mailto:prui...@cwu.edu>> wrote:

I must have missed the message from Thom that changed the governance of this 
list to a democracy.  Since he is providing the server free of charge I think 
he is the one that gets to decide what can and can not be posted on this 
list...or did I miss something there?

73

Jim Pruitt


>>> On 10/26/2012 at 5:08 AM, mailto:k4...@comcast.net>> 
>>> wrote:
I've got to agree with Jim!!!
73,
Ariel, k4aal
On 10/25/2012 9:10 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:
> OK, so who wants to spank me for asking for a Gonset knob here? :)
>
> 73
>
> -Jim (found one elsewhere, BTW)
> NU0C
>
>
> On Fri, 26 Oct 2012 01:59:39 +, Hudson, John@CalEMA wrote:
>
>> Jim the beauty of the Drake list, as you know, is that it's all about 
>> Drake's and nothing else. There are many other forums to sell "their" wares 
>> or post dx spots or name your niche. This is the Drake reflector not the 
>> Collins, yaesu, name your manufacture. To embrace a broader policy invites a 
>> watered down forum and we loose what makes our reflector special.
>>
>> I'm sure many others agree,
>>
>> John N. Hudson, WA6HYQ
> --
> “There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
> Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)
>
>

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Re: [Drakelist] ham item for sale

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

Jim the beauty of the Drake list, as you know, is that it's all about Drake's 
and nothing else. There are many other forums to sell "their" wares or post dx 
spots or name your niche. This is the Drake reflector not the Collins, yaesu, 
name your manufacture. To embrace a broader policy invites a watered down forum 
and we loose what makes our reflector special.

I'm sure many others agree,

John N. Hudson, WA6HYQ




On Oct 25, 2012, at 18:44, "Jim Shorney"  wrote:

> 
> 
> Do you guys realize that it took you longer to type and send these repsonses
> than it would have taken to just use your DELETE key?
> 
> I, for one, don't mind such occasional listings. It's kind of fun to see what
> pops out of the woodwork, and I might just see something I want.
> 
> 73
> 
> -Jim
> NU0C
> 
> 
> On Thu, 25 Oct 2012 22:16:48 +, mark depaepe  wrote:
> 
>> Concur.
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
> 
> --
> The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
> relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife"
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] ham item for sale

[Hudson, John@CalEMA]

Agree


John N. Hudson III, Communications  Coordinator
4050 Taylor St, MS 243
San Diego, CA 92110
6192509063 Cell




On Oct 25, 2012, at 15:12, "Adrian P. van Bloois"  wrote:

> IMHO this is a Drake list. Recently I see various NON Drake items being
> offered for sale. Why not go to ebay? I think this list should be
> restricted to Drake stuff only. Sell the mighty fine junk elsewhere
> Please.
> 
> 73
> -- 
>Adri P. van Bloois
>Antonlaan 104email:adr...@pa0rda.nl
>3701 VG Zeistvoice:+31-(0)-30-6912741
>The Netherlandsfax:NONE
> 
> 52 05'15.77"N 5 4'44.56"E
> QTH-locater JO 22 OC
> 
> The whole point of cooking is to get as much flavour out of the
> ingredients as possible.
>-- Delia Smith
> 
> 
> -- 
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
> believed to be clean.
> 
> 
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Re: [Drakelist] is Drake closing?

[John Hudson]

I'm sorry but who said that? Who said Drake was moving manufacturing offshore? 
Nothing in the previous messages said they were moving offshore or lost their 
moral compass. I believe previous messages indicated this IS a local move and 
KEEPING the existing numbers.

de WA6HYQ



From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net on behalf of Charles Ring
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 5:55:45 PM
To: Robert Ladden
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] is Drake closing?

Off to slave labor in China most likely. The businesses that had a conscience 
have all lost it or been killed off.


On 8/20/2012 2041, Robert Ladden wrote:
With leaving the manufacturing equipment behind, perhaps they are off-shoring 
their manufacturing. Sad if true.

73,
Bob WW3QB


From: "ve...@cogeco.ca" 

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] is Drake closing?


The Drake web site gives a new address in Miamisburg.  When you Google the 
address, a 7500 sq.ft. office building comes
up.  Is there more to this than just moving??

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Re: [Drakelist] R4C BFO Leakage

[John Brown]

Ahha, re my previous comment. I see that you have removed the NB-4 and there
is no change. I withdraw my comment.

Best regards

JB

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Bill & Becky
Sent: Thursday, 12 July 2012 9:21 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R4C BFO Leakage

 

A few weeks back I wrote about PBT levels in SSB/AM modes.  It would change
S-Meter levels depending on adjustment of the  PBT.  I ruled out the 4NB
board by removing it..no change.

However when I removed the bottom cover almost 6 S-Units of PB feedthrough
were reduced and performance was enhanced with less white noise. Interesting
to know the interference is being conducted by the metal bottom cover to key
area's of the bottom chassis. Next I will attempt adding metal shields to
isolate internal RF from conducting to nearby by circuits that are prone.

 

Best 73

 

Bill  KB9IV

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Re: [Drakelist] R4C BFO Leakage

[John Brown]

Have you been able to remove the NB-4 and bypass it with the jumper plug as
yet? I have experienced this problem and I have found the NB-4 to be the
culprit. You may be embarking on a process to eliminate symptoms rather than
fixing the problem.

JB

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Bill & Becky
Sent: Thursday, 12 July 2012 9:21 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R4C BFO Leakage

 

A few weeks back I wrote about PBT levels in SSB/AM modes.  It would change
S-Meter levels depending on adjustment of the  PBT.  I ruled out the 4NB
board by removing it..no change.

However when I removed the bottom cover almost 6 S-Units of PB feedthrough
were reduced and performance was enhanced with less white noise. Interesting
to know the interference is being conducted by the metal bottom cover to key
area's of the bottom chassis. Next I will attempt adding metal shields to
isolate internal RF from conducting to nearby by circuits that are prone.

 

Best 73

 

Bill  KB9IV

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Re: [Drakelist] WANTED TO BUY

[John Brown]

What is a "Poser Supply" a new suit or free drinks? I know I know "Power
Supply".

JB

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of w4...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, 10 July 2012 12:50 PM
To: drakera...@yahoogroups.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] WANTED TO BUY

 

Cover for PS-75 Poser Supply.  Must be new or in absolute mint condition.
Please contact me off list stating price and condition.

 

73 and thanks,

 

John,  W4AWM

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Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis refurb problems

[john]

I am reaching way outside the box here.
 
When working with wood, particularly cherry, where that aged patina is very 
attractive, a great way to advance the process is to fume it with ammonia.  
Works fantastic!  
 
I have no idea what ammonia would do with copper.  For all I know the reaction 
could be noxious or worse.  But if you have a small piece of copper to test on 
it might be worth the effort.  Or if there are any chemists on here, what say 
you?
 
God bless
73
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Re: [Drakelist] R4C Questions

[John Brown]

Is the NB-4 Noise Blanker installed? If so remove the NB from the R4-C and
install the jumper socket and see if the effect remains.

Chances are the NB is the issue and will need to be realigned and the NB
gain reset.

JB 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Bill & Becky
Sent: Monday, 2 July 2012 12:24 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R4C Questions

 

Hi Group  I recently obtained a Sherwood upgraded R4C (SN 22xxx), the only
Sherwood upgrade it doesn't have is the 2K Upper & Lower SSB filters. It
performs very well but it has one oddity.

 

When in  SSB mode and the PBT is adjusted Upper & Lower end of travel it
varies the S-Meter from S6 middle center PBT to S1 either PBT endpoint. On
CW using the 1.5Khz, 500Hz or 250Hz it works like it should or what I'm
accustom to.

 

I've corrected many small problems by treating grounds and filter sockets,
tube sockets from the topsidebottom side next.  It just seems like
I'm getting allot of white noise or bleed through from somewhere to cause
the SSB mode oddity.

 

Question?  How can it tell if this has the T7C version xfrmer??

 

These Sherwood upgrades were done 20+ yrs ago and this nice condition R4C
has sat unused for many years.

 

Perhaps all is typical as I don't have another to compare to.

 

Best 73

 

Bill KB9IV

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Re: [Drakelist] Crystal

[John Brown]

Whoops made a typo: should read 4644.999 Khz. crystal.

John

VK2IFT

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of John Brown
Sent: Tuesday, 5 June 2012 2:32 PM
To: Drake List
Subject: [Drakelist] Crystal

 

Folks, I am in the process of restoring an R-4C and I am having difficulty
getting the Carrier Oscillator stable. It seems to drift from about 400hz
below 4645khz up to 450Hz above and anywhere in between over time. It really
should stabilise quickly +/- 50Hz after turn on. The power supply to the
oscillator is clean and stable. The oscillator is part of the "mode" switch
assembly and would have to be removed to get to the electronics. So I guess
the drift issue could be attributed to any of the components and /or the
crystal. So before I commit to pulling this assembly apart I am wondering if
there is a possible supplier for the 4654.999 crystal? I figure if I am
going to do this I should at least have a replacement crystal in hand. 

Any ideas on a crystal source? 

Thanks

John

VK2IFT

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[Drakelist] Crystal

[John Brown]

Folks, I am in the process of restoring an R-4C and I am having difficulty
getting the Carrier Oscillator stable. It seems to drift from about 400hz
below 4645khz up to 450Hz above and anywhere in between over time. It really
should stabilise quickly +/- 50Hz after turn on. The power supply to the
oscillator is clean and stable. The oscillator is part of the "mode" switch
assembly and would have to be removed to get to the electronics. So I guess
the drift issue could be attributed to any of the components and /or the
crystal. So before I commit to pulling this assembly apart I am wondering if
there is a possible supplier for the 4654.999 crystal? I figure if I am
going to do this I should at least have a replacement crystal in hand. 

Any ideas on a crystal source? 

Thanks

John

VK2IFT

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[Drakelist] Replacing switch shaft

[John Boyle]

I recently rescued a Pioneer SX-650 receiver from our local recycling depot.  
The shaft on the on/off speaker switch was broken as well as the shaft on the 
balance control.  Is there a practical way to replace these shafts or must the 
control be replaced?  Neither control is a "stock" item.  The receiver works 
very well and sounds great.  Thanks for any suggestions.

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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist

[john]

There's nobody more useful to this forum than Gary was.  Not only 
knowledgeable , Gary is a gentleman.


"Uninviting" him is a serious mistake.

John K5MO



At 03:23 PM 4/22/2012, Duane Calvin wrote:
Wow, I must have misread the last couple of notes.  I don't understand why 
Gary would be "uninvited" to the forum.  I don't know anyone who has 
provided more help.


73, Duane





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Re: [Drakelist] R4B AF GAIN

[John Brown]

It's the same on both of my R-4C radios seems to be an unintended
feature.

JB

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Ravn
Sent: Thursday, 5 April 2012 1:52 AM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R4B AF GAIN

 

When the AF gain control on my R4B is turned fully CCW, the receiver is not
completely quiet. Is this an anomality or a characteristic feature with the
R4B?

Thanks in advance.

OZ8CTH Peter

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Re: [Drakelist] Article by Garey K4OAH

[John Pelham]

At the bottom of this Web page (http://www.k9ya.org/index_telegraph.htm ) it 
says that back issues are available on request, with an email link. I sent an 
email asking for the April issue.

73,
John, W1JA

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On 
Behalf Of Richard Knoppow
Sent: Monday, 26 March 2012 1:31 PM
To: w7...@mtaonline.net; Tom Evans, AG9X
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Article by Garey K4OAH


- Original Message - 
From: 
To: "Tom Evans, AG9X" 
Cc: 
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Article by Garey K4OAH


>I Subscribed but still don't see a way to download ...I did 
>get an email confirming my subscription saying when future 
>issues come out I would get an email with a link to 
>downloading the new issue. I was looking forward to reading 
>Garey's story...
>
>
> --- tom.a...@gmail.com wrote:
>
 Same here. It appears that when one subscribes it sets 
you up for a future issue, not the current or past ones. 
Unless you have the URL it appears you can't access the 
current issue.  This is an odd way to set up something that 
is offered free.


--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com 


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[Drakelist] obsolete part

[John Rowland]

anyone know the repl. for motorola scr no.  C228F3  in  PS-7 ?  and  what
distributor stocks it?  Thanks  - John
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[Drakelist] AC-3 Ver AC-4

[John Gartman]

Well I installed a heath kit in my AC-4 and all mine does is blow the fuse
when the jumper is between pins 1 and 2. I have gone over it many times.

Wire for wire reds to reds yellows to yellows blues to blues etc. but it
blows the 5 amp and a 6.5 amp slow blow and it blows that also.

What I don't know is what capacitors to leave on the bottom there are 2 that
go to ground. One from the fuse holder and one from L2 Are these needed? 

I did not assemble the new circuit board I bought it assembled. I know it is
hard to guess without seeing and who knows what kind of goof ups a yahoo
makes 

in wiring but anyone have an idea on where to look next ?  It did not blow
the fuse before the board was installed.

 

Thanks

 

John AG6GL

 

 

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[Drakelist] Drake items FS ...

[John Schroeder]

Hello Drake users:;
 
Have 3 items for sale...
 
1. AC-4 PS wih Heath shop rebuild kit.
 
2.  MS-4 SPKR.
 
3. MS-7 SPKR
 
If interested, please contact me at.
 
dmir2...@yahoo.com
 
Thanks, and 73 ... John ...
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[Drakelist] Blonder-Tongue Buys Drake

[John Hudson]

We might get lucky and Bonder-Tongue might get back into the Radio Amateur 
world. Perhaps a letter writing campaign might help..

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On 
Behalf Of Grant Youngman
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2012 1:31 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Blonder-Tongue Buys Drake

I suspect it means the final nail in the coffin of one of a long list of ham 
radio's great companies (and great products).  It's too bad, although Drake has 
been out of our business for a long time.  Their legacy will live on for a long 
time to come.  I've passed on my B-line and C-line, and was planning to sell my 
TR-7/RV-75, but I think I'll hang on to it for a while.

On the plus side, the torch has been passed to some excellent new ones here at 
home ...  Elecraft, Ten-Tec, and Flex.  And somewhere down the line, they'll 
pass on the torch .. and so it goes.  I just wish I hadn't sold my 1-A last 
year :-)

Grant/NQ5T


On Feb 2, 2012, at 3:12 PM, kc9...@aol.com wrote:

> Oh...interesting...I hope that means they will be building the C line, TR4-C 
> etc...again, brand new!
> Would create some nice job opportunities..
> 73,
> Lee
> 
> 


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[Drakelist] UNSUBCRIBED??

[John Hudson]

I received an e-mail today that unsubscribed me from the Drakelist, not sure 
why that would happen. None the less, I appreciate that I was allowed back on.

John, WA6HYQ

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Re: [Drakelist] stoopid question on transformer wiring

[John Brown]

If I read your post correctly...No. The voltages ex the transformer are A/C
i.e. the output voltages/currents alternate across each output winding.

JB

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Sack
Sent: Wednesday, 1 February 2012 5:13 AM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] stoopid question on transformer wiring

 

OK, I've rebuilt my AC-3 and I've studied the schematics and read past posts
but still have a basic question. Are each pair of transformer leads are
interchangeable? Meaning does it matter which red lead goes where? Or blue,
yellow, black? I understand it's AC in and out of the transformer and the
schematic shows each pair going through a half-wave rectifier chopping into
DC and the ripple being smoothed by the caps. But, will I be inverting the
voltage by getting the wrong lead much like the bias's blue leads? The green
leads must be supplying AC directly to the radio. How can I tell which is
which if there's no reference voltage?

 

I'm all done with the AC-3 rebuild with Mike Bryce's AC-4R unit. Much thanks
to N2FFL for posting his info on using the AC-4R kit on the AC-3. Now on to
renewing some components on my TR-4.

 

Larry, N8QNM

 

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[Drakelist] AC-4

[John Gartman]

My power cord from power supply to radio is a little poor looking at the
strain relief, and is more than likely a little brittle.

 

Should I try just cutting it off or replacing it? If I was to replace it any
recommendations on where to get this type of cord?

 

Thanks

 

John Gartman

AG6GL

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Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

[john]

I've used a couple silicon diodes in series in a sleeve of shrink wrap to 
slow the fDC ans down a bit too...   or, use a 9V wall wart. The fans are 
almost free these days and it doesn't take a huge one to make a big 
difference in the temp in the radio.


73
John K5MO



At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:

I've done all which-ways.

I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow 
it down.
I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 
12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point 
where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a 
hamfest.
I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he 
used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply 
for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed 
wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber 
feet.  No holes get drilled that way...


YMMV,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.


From: <mailto:mtruss8...@comcast.net>Michael & Sue Trussell
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
To: <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I 
know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 
110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I 
don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like 
the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any 
suggestions?


Thank you in advance

Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN


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[Drakelist] Drake L75 Plate Choke Capacitor

[John Tyra]

I was checking out my L75, preparing to list it on ebay or take it to the San 
Antonio Swap-fest, when I discovered the Plate Choke Capacitor had gone bad.
It is the long, flat, green sheet capacitor used on some of the L75 and L7 Amps.

I believe I have read that this is being replaced with a doorknob type 
capacitor.  Can anyone get me up to date on date on what is being used and 
where it can be obtained?

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Re: [Drakelist] FS: R-4B and a T-4XB

[John Hudson]

That's why I own a Viking II, but I've seen guys modify the Drakes..


From: Don Cunningham [mailto:d...@martineer.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 10:24 AM
To: John Hudson; w8...@aol.com ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] FS: R-4B and a T-4XB

John,
"Normal" AM carrier can only be had with a true, plate modulated rig.  The 
Drakes don't have enough iron or a heavy enough modulator to do much more than 
controlled carrier.  I've seen "mods", but.  I sure wouldn't do it to 
my Drakes.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Re: [Drakelist] FS: R-4B and a T-4XB

[John Hudson]

Has the transmitter been modified to present a normal AM carrier or original?


From: w8...@aol.com [mailto:w8...@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 05:12 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: [Drakelist] FS: R-4B and a T-4XB

I am downsizing and selling some of my drake collection. I have the following 
FS:

R-4B receiver. working and recently re-aligned. Cabinet has been repainted and 
looks good.
Price...  $225.00 plus shipping

T-4XB transmitter.  working and puts out 120 watts on 80m. Cabinet has been 
repainted.
Price. $125.00 plus shipping

I will sell both units together for ... $325.00 plus shipping.

Because of it's age the Rx and Tx are being sold as is.  If interested, please 
contact w8...@arrl.net .

More gear to follow.  73,

Terry - W8NJR

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Re: [Drakelist] Creeping plate current

[john]

You're right! I was in a QSO and noticed it heading towards the peg over a 
period of  5-10 sec or so. Thought I just needed to redip the finals, but I 
shut it off fast, when I realized what was happening.  Can't recall whether 
this rig has 6JB6's or 6GJ5's in it.


That makes two I need to re-do. Guess it's time to call the Heath Shop and 
get a kit, since both of these supplies are original, and since I'm under 
the hood.


John K5MO


At 06:28 PM 1/2/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:

It would for me.  Looks like you lucked out being there when it happened.

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



--
From: "john" 
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 4:45 PM
To: 
Subject: [Drakelist] Creeping plate current

I noticed my plate current creeping up and up and up while using my C 
line today...fortunately I think I turned it off in time to save the 
finals (I hope)


I'm guessing I lost the bias supply (cap ?) .... would that be your first 
stop too?


John
K5MO


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[Drakelist] Filters

[John Schroeder]

Hello group:
 
This may be a silly question but, do XTAL filters wear out? I bought a .5, and 
a 2.5 stock Drake filters for 100 bucks for the both of them... They ring so 
badly, they are useless... BTW, they are installed in a R4-C, if it makes a 
difference... 
 
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[Drakelist] Creeping plate current

[john]

I noticed my plate current creeping up and up and up while using my C line 
today...fortunately I think I turned it off in time to save the finals (I hope)


I'm guessing I lost the bias supply (cap ?)  would that be your first 
stop too?


John
K5MO


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Re: [Drakelist] S-meter shorted to case.

[John Meyer]

Steve, If you have to work on the meter don't remove the nut on the back, 
unsolder the wire. Go into the meter from the front. When you do you will see 
why. I made the mistake and loosened the nut which broke a very fine wire close 
to the coil body.  John Meyer K8IHY
 From: w1es1...@earthlink.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2012 11:04:13 -0500
Subject: [Drakelist] S-meter shorted to case.








I'm working on an R-4B and fried a resistor in the 
metering circuit.  The 560-ohm resistor is now measuring about 80 
ohms.  I thought, perhaps, the resistor had simply failed, but decided to 
sniff around the circuit some more before subjecting this no-longer-obtainable 
meter to any more stress (it is still indicating when I put an ohmmeter across 
its terminals).
 
Whilst metering the meter (don't you love it?), I 
discovered that the right-hand terminal (when facing the back of it), was 
shorting to the metal case!  Arrrghhh.  I played around some more 
with the insulator and torque upon the nut and have it so it's no longer 
shorting to the case.  When I lifted that oblong insulator to peek at the 
screw and where it comes through the back of the case, it appears that it is 
supposed to be isolated from the case - as I would expect.
 
What could have caused this short?  I'm very much 
suspecting that this could have fried that resistor.  I've eliminated the 
short but am uneasy because I didn't see anything that fixed it other than 
re-torqueing the nut.
 
Anyone ever have one of these puppies 
apart?
 
73,
 
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 
Live free or die: Death is not the worst of 
evils.
John Stark.
 
All my computers have my signature with various pearls 
of wisdom appended thereto.


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Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

[john]

I'll third it.

If I want something to act like a new  whizbang radio, why not get a new 
whizbang radio?


The joy of an old piece of gear is it being an old piece of gear that still 
works well.


I suppose the "ultimate" update would be to remove everything in the 
cabinet of a R4C and install inside an Elecraft K3.. Would it still be a 
Drake? I don't think so, but others might.


We own the radios, so we're free to do as we wish, but remember, it's only 
original once.


John K5MO


At 09:43 AM 12/31/2011, Gary Poland wrote:
Against my better judgment to comment on the Sherwood mods, I guess 
this time I can’t help myself HI HI. This subject is just about as 
opinionated as the fan sucks in, blows out debate. First I am not a 
serious contester, just a tinkerer, casual SSB /AM operator and not so 
serious DX chaser.
Short of first IF filter replacements, I am personally not in favor 
of modifying the the R-4C. Even overlooking the fact that it is no longer 
as Drake designed it, good or bad, I prefer to keep them stock, just my 
opinion. I love them for what they are. The modifications were first 
published in Ham Radio and 73 magazines years ago. I have tried most of 
them, but later returned the R-4C back to stock. Probably the best reason 
I see against the mods, unless you have money to burn, they are very 
expensive. I personally would prefer the keep the Drakes stock and 
purchase a newer radio.  Again I realize everyone is different, everyone 
has an opinion. Those that spent big bucks to “ upgrade “ their 
R-4C’s have a need to feel warm and fuzzy about the expense I suppose, 
and maybe they see a real improvement. I will just keep my non Blue LED 
lighted, spotted chassis, non $100 Hartzel paint job, non modded C-lines 
as they are ...


73, Gary
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Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

[John Brown]

Max, if you are inclined towards doing all of the R-4C Sherwood mods on your
receiver then I would say it would be well worthwhile. The complete mods
really puts the R4-C ahead of the pack. I have done 2 R4C's this way and
wouldn't hesitate to do them again.

In terms of individual mods, then the power supply is a must and perhaps the
filter capacitors at the same time. The audio module gets rid of the class A
audio amp which is a heat generator and source of PTO drift. I believe you
would need to do the audio mod if the power supply is upgraded. So once you
start you might as well keep going.

Best of luck

JB

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of AirRadio
Sent: Saturday, 31 December 2011 8:28 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

 

I am thinking about doing the full works Sherwood mods on my R4-C. Which are
the best to do?  I don't mind how far I go with this, I just want the best
receiver for my money, I would like it for Top band use but I know it will
be good for all frequencies however 160M is where I want to go.

73 Max

M0GHQ/W8BX

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Re: [Drakelist] strange relay setup for T4X

[John Brown]

No mention of Vox but I can't see how there would be any if the relay is
picked via a 12volt mod via the Mic PTT. If the rig is generally working OK
(SSB) then I guess it's up to Dale as to the next move. If it was my issue
then I would source an appropriate relay and restore the rig to its "as
built" functionality.
Best regards
JB 

-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Thursday, 29 December 2011 2:37 AM
To: John Brown
Cc: y...@aol.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] strange relay setup for T4X

Possibly.  Dale didn't mention whether the VOX worked or not.  It wouldn't
be that difficult to put 
a fet (2N7000?) in place of the last 6EV7 section to retain VOX.

If the VOX (Semi-Breakin) doesn't work then the 'dit chop' doesn't matter!
Of course the 
transmitter is much less pleasant to operate, at least to me.:-)

--
73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



John Brown wrote:
>
> I guess there will not be any VOX capability if it is hard wired to the
PTT.
>
> JB
>
> *From:*drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *y...@aol.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, 28 December 2011 12:15 PM
> *To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net
> *Subject:* [Drakelist] strange relay setup for T4X
>
> Put the T4X on the bench today, noticed the relay had been changed out. I
found a sealed relay in 
> place of the open frame relay. The relay was for 12 vdc.. they powered the
relay via a small 
> rectifier and a small filter network,taken from the 12 volt ac feed to the
rig from the AC-4.   
> The Ptt circuit is now 12 vdc at the mic jack. I  tried to follow what was
changed in the PTT 
> wiring really hard to follow as they wove the new wire into the old
harness. I set the rig up with 
> the ac-4, and checked it out. Everything seems to work as it should, T4X
had no trouble tuning to 
> full output.
>  I guess the question is , this mod seems to work fine ,as its done
,is there any thing I 
> should be concerned about using the mod , as to the way the T4X was
originally set up? any one see 
> any pitfalls ?
> thanks
> dale wt4t
>


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Re: [Drakelist] strange relay setup for T4X

[John Brown]

I guess there will not be any VOX capability if it is hard wired to the PTT.

JB

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of y...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, 28 December 2011 12:15 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] strange relay setup for T4X

 

Put the T4X on the bench today, noticed the relay had been changed out. I
found a sealed relay in place of the open frame relay. The relay was for 12
vdc.. they powered the relay via a small rectifier and a small filter
network,taken from the 12 volt ac feed to the rig from the AC-4.   The Ptt
circuit is now 12 vdc at the mic jack. I  tried to follow what was changed
in the PTT wiring really hard to follow as they wove the new wire into the
old harness. I set the rig up with the ac-4, and checked it out. Everything
seems to work as it should, T4X had no trouble tuning to full output.
 I guess the question is , this mod seems to work fine ,as its done ,is
there any thing I should be concerned about using the mod , as to the way
the T4X was originally set up? any one see any pitfalls ?
thanks
dale wt4t

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Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear

[John Hudson]

Do I dare say, well Hewlett Packard use to wash. . . . .

;-)


-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On 
Behalf Of John Brown
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 4:32 PM
To: 'Steve Wedge'; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear

NahI think it will come up pretty well.
JB

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Wedge
Sent: Wednesday, 21 December 2011 11:46 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear

I'm going to nominate this as the most-abused, nastiest-looking piece of
Drake gear I've ever seen:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260919992177&ssPageNa
me=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

I wouldn't even bet that the meter's working given how much moisture this
one has seen.

Enjoy those Drakes - but not underwater...

Steve, W1ES/4

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Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear

[John Brown]

NahI think it will come up pretty well.
JB

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Wedge
Sent: Wednesday, 21 December 2011 11:46 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear

I'm going to nominate this as the most-abused, nastiest-looking piece of
Drake gear I've ever seen:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260919992177&ssPageNa
me=ADME:B:SS:US:1123

I wouldn't even bet that the meter's working given how much moisture this
one has seen.

Enjoy those Drakes - but not underwater...

Steve, W1ES/4

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Re: [Drakelist] T4-XB Question

[John Hudson]

I have a T4XC and in normal SSB the Gain control is around 9 O'Clock for 
correct modulation. When I'm on CW for full power which is around 125 watts the 
gain is about 3 O'Clock. Settings will change the higher in Frequency.


- Original Message -
From: Ted Schurter [mailto:tedschur...@verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 11:20 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: [Drakelist] T4-XB Question

Greetings all,

I have a T4-XB recently brought out of "mothballs". It passed the  
"smoke test" just fine and seems to work OK except for one possible  
anomaly.

When tuning up using a wattmeter and dummy load and in the "tune"  
position, I can achieve an output of 60 watts with the gain control is  
in the 11 O'Clock position.  Then, when going to the "CW" position,  
and with the key down, the output is much less (about 20 watts). With  
the key still down, I need to rotate the gain control to the 2 O'clock  
position in order to acheive the same 60 watts output.

Does this seem normal? The test was done on 40 meters.

Any inputs will be appreciated.

73,

Ted
WB2NVK 

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Re: [Drakelist] What does "Collector Condition" mean to you

[john]

Collector Condition means:



The seller wants a lot of money for it.

John K5MO


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[Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[John Hudson]

Because this subject has been discussed so many times and there is so much 
interest, I thought I'd bring Paul Larona, KB6MIP who worked for HP and cleaned 
and repaired equipment.

You can read his comments below, to correct my comments the soap wasn't Simple 
Green but "Zoom".


From: Paul Lorona [mailto:boomer...@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2011 08:35 AM
To: John Hudson
Subject: Re: FW: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

Hi Johnny -

I wonder who this person reminiscing was? I clearly remember doing exactly 
what was described, except for the distilled water part. I recall using plain 
old tap water. That was back between 1983 and 1993 for me, at the "new" HP 
Fullerton office on Manhattan Avenue, just northeast of what was back then 
Griswolds Hotel. The old HP building is now the Albertsons / SavOn Corporate 
HQ, I think.

Our "wash rack" at HP Fullerton was nothing more elaborate than an enclosed 
area maybe 4'W x 3'D x 4'H, with hot and cold water taps and a spigot / hose 
assembly at one end. It had a turntable in it, and as I recall we had some sort 
of heavy duty de-greaser we called "Zoom" in a 55 gallon drum with a hand pump 
that we used.

The wash rack also had two heating units. One was a simple oven that had a 
rather crude thermostat that held the temperature within somewhere between 150 
and 180 degrees F. This is where we dried the stuff we washed. The other was an 
"environmental chamber," which was basically a much better insulated and sealed 
oven with humidity control and a much better temperature setting and regulating 
method. We used the "chamber" to heat run equipment while powered up, to see if 
things would fail in hot environments. I want to think the "chamber" ran a bit 
cooler ... somewhere between 100 and 120 degrees F to stress test operating 
equipment.

And yeah ... things with transformers of high-voltage power systems usually 
got baked for at least a weekend, usually a week if the customer wasn't in a 
hurry.

I couldn't even guess how many pieces of electronic equipment I ran through 
the wash rack and oven ... dozens, maybe hundreds. Customers would send us 
stuff that was horrible ... rat nests, dust and crud so thick you couldn't see 
individual components on the circuit boards, CRTs that were dim to the point of 
being useless for the crud built up between the glass and the transparent 
protective covers ... and it would all go back looking sparkling and almost new.

Somewhere in my pile of HP memorabilia I think I have a letter from a 
customer thanking me for "resurrecting" an old logic analyzer by cleaning it 
up. I washed logic analyzers, data generators, oscilloscopes, DC power systems, 
RF generators, spectrum analyzers ... all kinds of stuff. And after hours I was 
known to wash the off the odd MICOR or MASTR II as well .

Those were good times.

Thanks for the memory poke. That was fun.

Paul


I thought you'd get a kick out of this string of comments..

-Original Message-
From: Ed Tanton [mailto:n...@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 5:34 AM
To: John Hudson; anc...@ec.rr.com<mailto:anc...@ec.rr.com>; 
w1es1...@earthlink.net<mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>
Cc: captc...@flash.net<mailto:captc...@flash.net>; 
drakelist@zerobeat.net<mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>
Subject: RE: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

...and I wouldn't be a bit surprised if the key reason for the transformers 
being OK, related to the distilled water!!! Surely that says something about 
other, non-hermetic components as well.

Ed Tanton

website: http://www.n4xy.com

All emails  &  checked by
Norton AntiVirus with AutoProtect

--
Wag more / Bark less
--


-----Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net<mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net> 
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of John Hudson
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 3:15 PM
To: anc...@ec.rr.com<mailto:anc...@ec.rr.com>; 
w1es1...@earthlink.net<mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>
Cc: captc...@flash.net<mailto:captc...@flash.net>; 
drakelist@zerobeat.net<mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

As we all know this has been a hot topic many times on the list. One of my good 
friends worked at HP Fullerton cleaning, repairing, and aligning test 
equipment. The process was, as described prior, blowing out dust, removing 
whose items that water would damage, using a solution of simple green under 
pressure washer, scrubbing with brush as needed,  then rinsing with distilled 
water, air hose, and baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week.  He said 
transformers were not a problem for this process.

It would be awesome to find

Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[john]

baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week.



It's much faster to do it by hand without risking old gear for which a 
ready stock of spares doesn't exist on the shop floor stockroom, like it 
did at HP.



Just my $0.02 .  Old gear takes time. It's a good thing.

John K5MO


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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

[John Hudson]

As we all know this has been a hot topic many times on the list. One of my good 
friends worked at HP Fullerton cleaning, repairing, and aligning test 
equipment. The process was, as described prior, blowing out dust, removing 
whose items that water would damage, using a solution of simple green under 
pressure washer, scrubbing with brush as needed,  then rinsing with distilled 
water, air hose, and baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week.  He said 
transformers were not a problem for this process.

It would be awesome to find photo's or documentation of this process and placed 
in our document files.


- Original Message -
From: Al Parker [mailto:anc...@ec.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 10:55 AM
To: Steve Wedge 
Cc: captc...@flash.net ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

Hi folks,
There's been a post on another list in the last cupla days re: a 
"different" Simple Green, reported to be more user & radio friendly than 
the regular stuff.  The part number for a one gallon container is 13406 
and a google search under "Simple Green" 13406 will yield many hits on 
suppliers.  I see that thru Amazon, a gal. can be del'd for less that 
$30, and that'll keep most of us busy for a cupla yrs.
I quote from a satisfied BA'type, R-390A's, user here:
--
"The Extreme Aircraft and Precision cleaner is entirely different. 
First it is clear.  When using it it is very similar to 409 but with 
some significant advantages.  Although the directions give information 
for diluting, if you wish, I used it without dilution.

First of all, it removed dirty film that 409 couldn’t clean.  Secondly 
it is not as allergic if one gets a sniff of it while spraying.  It 
still needs the elbow grease and you may need to do a surface several 
times before all the grime comes off.  I didn’t wear gloves when using 
it and after rinsing and drying my hands they seemed normal with no 
dryness."

I have't tried it yet, and haven't used Simple Green, but have used 409 
and Srubbing Bubbles sparingly.  Scrub B's has been reported by a 
chemist-type to be non-ionic and safe.  Not sure abt 409.  I do use 
plain water and hand dishwashing liquid soap mostly, applied carefully 
with a paint brush, and reserve the rest for bad problems.  Rinse 
anything/everything well with distilled water.
73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 12/1/2011 12:42 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:
> I've been swearing by Simple Green.  The Scrubbing Bubbles might be a winner, 
> as it has an alcohol base - which can dissolve some things that water can't.
>
> BTW, for the PTO I steer clear of washing (except for the vernier) and clean 
> out the bearing races and worm-screw with IPA and Q-tips, followed by a 
> re-lube of the ball bearings with 3-in-1 oil and the worm and concentric 
> shaft with Rem Oil.
>
> Use only mild soap on the frequency vernier!  You should rinse the vernier it 
> with distilled water when done and pat dry with a paper towel.  For grungy 
> C-Line and SPR-4 dual verniers, I suspect you'll have to disassemble them 
> from the shaft if they're dirty to prevent gunk from getting between the two 
> discs.
>
> And, of course, never grease any Nylon gears!
>
> 73,
>
> Steve, W1ES/4

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4X Stability: EPILOGUE (Almost!)

[john]

I'll second that... it's epics like these that make this and other lists 
worth riding along with.


Thanks for taking the time, and thanks for the info. I always knew fans 
were a good idea :-)


John K5MO



At 01:47 PM 11/29/2011, Robert Fish wrote:
" This has all been a most interesting exercise, nonetheless---I only hope 
that my ramblings herein have NOT inspired readers to unsubscribe from the 
list..! "


On the contrary, Eddy. I find this stuff fascinating. The most productive 
learning environments always have people who say things like, "I wonder 
what would happen if we.?"


I hope you keep sharing the results of your experiments with us.

73,

Bob  K6GGO


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Re: [Drakelist] T-4X Stability

[john]

At 02:32 PM 11/25/2011, Eddy Swynar wrote:
although I dare say, probably not everyone has as thick a hide as I do in 
being able to withstand a 59F ambient room temperature...! Hi Hi.


Good God man, close the windows when you're measuring drift!

:-)

John K5MO 



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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4c Receiver for sale

[john]

At 10:59 AM 11/22/2011, Steve Wedge wrote:

That was quick ;-)



A very nice radio at a very fair price...it's going to sell :-)

John 



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[Drakelist] TR 3

[John Gartman]

I have a tr-3 that I was warming up and the mike locked on. When I came back
to a burning smell I shut it down.  I found that the transmit/receive relay
had melted part of the white plastic shield. I removed the cover cleaned the
contacts and when it starts to get warm it closes the relay and will not
receive. If I key the mic it locks into transmit mode, I do not think it
transmits either. It looks to be over my head in repairing by myself, so I
am looking for advice should I keep trying or find some one to repair it?

 

I really like this radio

 

John Gartman

AG6GL

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Re: [Drakelist] Bias Adjustment on TR4CW

[John Brown]

Reducing the mains input probably wouldn't make any difference to tube life.
Regarding the bias setting, changing this would only shift the class of
operating the finals a tad from the design spec if any. Can't see much to be
gained from doing either. Why not just use the rig and enjoy it?
JB

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Michael A. Kelly
Sent: Saturday, 12 November 2011 1:54 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Bias Adjustment on TR4CW

Question 1:

Would tube life be extended if I ran my TR4Cw at 108-110 Volts AC
instead of 120VAC? (All of the 21 tubes, not just the transmitting
tubes?)  I have access to a  variac and could do it easily.  Has
anyone else done this?  Obviously output would suffer a bit, but I
typically run 90-100 watts maximum anyway.  Aside from less possible
total power output, is there a downside here?

Question 2:

When you adjust the PA Bias to 0.1 what exactly is that doing,
decreasing the voltage similar to a variac? Does it affect all tubes,
or just the finals?  If so, again, why not turn it down to say 0.009
instead of 0.1 and again extend tube life?

Thanks,

Michael Kelly N4MAK

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Re: [Drakelist] R-4B low sensitivity low output on 10 meters 28 MHZ

[John Brown]

Probably the "inj" level is higher from the T4X. Might need to investigate
the R4B mixers.

JB

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of J G
Sent: Thursday, 10 November 2011 9:29 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R-4B low sensitivity low output on 10 meters 28 MHZ

 

Hi,

Now that 10 is alive and well, I decided to put the B line (T-4XB, R-4B) on
10. Hasn't been there in a long time. 

 

The low sensitivity part:

The R-4B has low sensitivity on 10. I do not recall that from 20 some years
ago when I was last on 10 with it.

 

Using the R-4B to control, the calibrator will get an S meter reading of
about S5. Using the T-4XB to control the calibrator will yield an S8
reading. This was done at 28.5, and this is after adjusting the 4 trimmers
for 28.0. I notice the same results using the cw range (28.0 - 28.5) crystal
at both 28.0 and at 28.5. I do have 28.0 and 28.5 crystals in both the R-4B
and the T-4XB. A low S meter reading is also obtained using the 24.5 meg
crystal that I have in an accessory socket of the R-4B (I do not have one
for the T-4XB). As expected, "real signals" are louder using the T-4XB to
control.

 

This situation did exist on 15 meters, but adjusting the 21 trimmers did
take care of that.

 

The low output part:

Using the R-4B to control, power out is low. About the best it can do is 30
watts with .16 plate current.

Using the T-4XB to control (transceive), about 75 watts with .26 plate
current (gain full open)

Using the SEPARATE position about 110 watts with .32 plate current (gain at
a bit less than 12:00)

Power readings as per wattmeter in C-4, so may not be accurate, but they are
relative.

 

I think the low sensitivity and low output problems are related, but I am
not sure why the output would vary so much between the T-4XB as the
transceive control and the separate control.

 

Any ideas welcomed.

Thank you,

Jim

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Re: [Drakelist] RV-4 FS

[John Hudson]

Will it work with a TR-6??

;-)


- Original Message -
From: Kris Merschrod [mailto:k...@merschrod.net]
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 02:31 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: [Drakelist] RV-4   FS


Must clear the bench(es.

Who will give me $85 (I will pay shipping in CONUS)?

DRAKE RV-4

The remote VFO is a nice accessory for Drake Transceivers. It provides a
speaker and a place for the AC-3 or AC-4 power supply, plus it allows
split operation for the TR-3 or TR-4 transceivers.

This is an early RV-4, two-tube version (OA2 and 12AU7; Serial Number
15039 - early 1973). Later models were single tube. The faceplate is very
clean and has the silver trim around the perimeter. Later models did not
have the silver trim.  The cabinet is dull and scuffed in places. The rear
feet are not original. The chassis (copper plated) has the usual
"freckles" and underneath in one corner it is "rusted."
I have tried to use it with my late model TR-4CWx; It only works in one
position, and I can't figure out why. It seems to attenuate the reception
and the transmitted signal.

Although the original speaker is included, I have installed a new 4 ohm
speaker for a better sound.  It will be well packed.

Kris KM2KM

Merschrod
Ithaca, NY

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Re: [Drakelist] made more money

[john]

Personally I do not see how anyone can "make 12,000 a month" or something 
to that effect unless you're a CEO with outrageous bonuses to boot.


Upper middle class money these days...

John 



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Re: [Drakelist] So if crystals change frequency ...

[john]

I'd add also to the bibliography the book published , by Virgil E. Bottom, 
Introduction to Quartz Crystal Design


He has quite a list of literature on this subject, but I've only owned the 
one book. Several involve crystal aging effects that are being discussed.


www.ieee-uffc.org/main/history/Bottom/appendix.doc

I seem to remember he was a professor in Texas somewhere.

John K5MO




At 04:18 PM 9/18/2011, Richard Knoppow wrote:


- Original Message - From: "Arthur Delibert" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 5:01 AM
Subject: [Drakelist] So if crystals change frequency ...




...what about crystal filters?  We're all using crystal filters in our 
rigs that are as old as the crystals that we're talking about 
replacing.  Do the crystals in the filters also drift over time, shifting 
the passband (or distorting it, if the crystals in it don't all drift at 
the same rate)?  Is the drift just too small to worry about in the case 
of a filter?


Thanks for any insights.

Art Delibert
KB3FJO


   I was able to find out quite a bit about crystals by doing Google 
searches for both quartz crystals and crystal filters. I did not find a 
comprehensive explanation of why crystals change frequency but it does 
seem that its a matter of the crystal lattice structure changing due to: 
impurities, mechanical shock, dirt, perhaps oxidation, and other things. 
Modern crystals are adjusted by frequency by chemical etching rather than 
mechanical grinding which yields a more uniform surface which is less 
prone to changes in the structure of the surface. They are also 
fine-adjusted by control of the plating which forms the electrodes. For 
many years the most stable crystals used evacuated containers. Even with 
all these changes crystals still change with age. Filters are quite 
critical of the exact characteristics of the crystals that make them up. 
Slight changes in either series or parallel resonance or the spacing of 
the two affect all the filter properties; bandwidth, shape and flatness 
of the pass band, spurious responses outside of the passband. The more 
complex the filter (the more poles) the more sensitive it is to changes 
in value. According to one article, both ceramic and mechanical filters 
are more stable than quartz crystal filters but neither type of resonator 
has the extremely high Q of quartz. In fact, any of these filters could 
be made using L's and C's if one could obtain a sufficiently high Q. It 
is the enormous Q available from quartz and other essentially mechanical 
resonators which makes these filters possible. But, its also the high Q 
that makes these devices so sensitive to small changes in values.
Probably the best sourc of theoretical information on quartz crystals 
remains W.G.Cady's old book but its highly technical and mathematical. 
There is a ton of literature on complex filter design, mostly also highly 
mathematical. While the Bell System used astonishingly complex filters 
for carrier telephone service in the 1950's calculating them without 
modern computers must have been extremely difficult and manufacturing 
them a tour-de-force.



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com



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Re: [Drakelist] Drake Receivers

[john]

I own one , and apart from the fact that there's no BFO , I've not noticed 
a whole lot of difference in performance from my other drake receivers 
(R4/B/C). It's quite capable, I just wish it had a BFO! :-)


John K5MO




t 06:54 PM 9/11/2011, Arthur Delibert wrote:

In an earlier lifetime, I owned an SW-4A.  I would not recommend it to 
anyone who is used to a serious DX receiver like the R-4C.


--Art Delibert, KB3FJO


> Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 17:55:58 -0400
> From: k4...@mindspring.com
> To: k...@comcast.net
> CC: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake Receivers
>
> Kevin -
>
> There are two in 4 Series.
>
> The SW-4/A is a Short Wave radio, fixed IF filter of 5 kHz, no BFO, 
etc. It is roughly equivalent
> to the R-4C in circuit topology, tubes in the RF and IF stages, SS 
elsewhere. It covers eleven
> short wave bands from the factory. Only four knobs on the panel, plus 
the main tuning.

>
> The SPR-4 is a Communications receiver, circuit topology similar to the 
R-4B, EXCEPT it's 'all solid
> state'. Lots of dual and single mos-fets, bipolars, L-C Passband tuner 
with 0.4, 2.4 & 4.8 kHz,
> bandwidths, etc. Covers the nine shortwave bands from the factory with 
a total of 23 positions. It
> can be set up to transceive with the T-4XC with an adapter. Six knobs 
and a main tuning knob.

>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
> and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> Kevin Nathan wrote:
> > Hi All.
> > I have a quick question for the group. I have my R-4C which I love 
and which is full of SWL
> > crystals and a couple of extra filters. However, I was wondering if 
Drake made a general coverage
> > receiver that matched the T-4X transmitter line similar to the way 
Collins made the 51S1 which was
> > the match to the S line transmitter and the general coverage partner 
of the 75S3?

> > Thanks much and very 73.
> > Kevin :)
> > Amateur Radio: K7RX
> >
> >
> > ___
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Re: [Drakelist] Top / Bottom Posting, was AF output tube in R4A

[john]

At 05:18 PM 8/26/2011, Jim Shorney wrote:

On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 09:04:19 -0400, Curt Nixon wrote:

>How bout the guys that break the response up and embed it into the
>original message text?  ;)


I like that...particularly if it's a long detailed thread.

There's some fellows on AMPS that do this and it makes it easier to follow 
the discussion in some of those long in-depth threads.



Its a universal truism that  ReplyTrimming is Goodness!

John K5MO 



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Re: [Drakelist] Top / Bottom Posting, was AF output tube in R4A

[john]

Absolutely.  Not trimming replies is another reason I prefer top feeding.  
 
If I am going thru several posts on a thread, I'm already familiar with what 
the response is to and just want to read the response.  If I need to, I can 
always pan down and refer to it.
 
If I am responding to a particular line in a long post I will sometimes put 
that line at the top in italics just to let others know what part I am 
responding to.
 
Although I don't have a lot to contribute, I do spend some time in the 
archives.  Along Garey's thought, it is very difficult to find things in there 
when 1) they don't change the subject title when needed and 2) they don't keep 
the subject title thru the entire thread (problem being solved).  Otherwise 
there is some great reference in there.  I have certainly learned a few things 
from it.
 
God bless
73
jb
kg6biw
 


On Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:34:03 -0700, Richard Knoppow wrote:

>
>     Note: do people on this list prefer top replies or 
>bottom?  I got a private e-mail asking me to change to top 
>posting so I am trying it.


It varies. In the dialup BBS scene where I cut my online teeth, bottom posting
was the standard. It also follows the flow of the conversation. Top posting is
lazinesss in some cases, but seems to have become the preferred method in the
business world because it creates a "paper trail". 

Whatever. You will never get any group of two or more people to agree on using
one method or the other. I just use what seems appropriate for the individual
message, depending on content and length of reply, and whether interleaving
makes sense.

More important IMO is I REALLY wish people would learn to trim replies and use
apostrophes correctly


73

-Jim (don't even get me started on reading comprehension)
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Re: [Drakelist] Cooling fan

[john]

I hear conflicting opinions about the advisability of using a cooling fan 
(eg: muffin fan) on top of the finals of T-4XB and XC transmitters



Every 10 deg C reduction in heat, doubles the life of electronic 
components. Not sure if this applies to tubes as well,  but I'd suspect so.


John K5MO


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Re: [Drakelist] I feel like a buzzard...

[john]

At 07:20 PM 8/23/2011, you wrote:

.

Could the power supply be starving even though the xtal oscillator is not 
changing at all?


73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4




I dunno Steve, but THANK YOU for taking the time to post all this... it's 
like watching Hercule Poirot on the trail.


I'm really anxious to find out whodunnit...and I'll learn stuff to boot!

John K5MO 



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[Drakelist] Scammer

[John Brown]

I advertised for a T-4XC front panel on the Australian VKHam classified
website and immediately received an Email response from somebody supposedly
located at: 46 medomak mobile home park waldoboro,me 04572 offering either
the T-4XC or just the front panel, claiming he has tried to sell the
transmitter but hasn't as yet and would just sell the panel. Seems very odd
indeed. I am aware there are some scammers responding to Hams placing
"wanted" ads on online classified sites claiming to have exactly what was
advertised. Anybody have any insight into this activity in the USA , or is
this address familiar, or am I being a bit too cautious?

Regards

John

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Re: [Drakelist] PTO capacitors.....

[john]

At 11:16 PM 8/11/2011, Garey Barrell wrote:

Ski -

Yes, those are the 'Dur-Mica' style caps made by 'Electro-Motive', and 
used by Drake.  That some are failing almost 50 years later



Darn caps, can't even get 50 years out of 'em these days!

:-)

John K5MO


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[Drakelist] Re Diversity Reception

[John Brown]

Probably need two antennas, two receivers and a multiplexer that can switch
between either receiver as the signal on each antenna fades in and out. It
was called "Diversity Reception" and was used for commercial RRTY (among
others uses)in order to maintain a constant signal feed to the RTTY
machines. The 2 antennas that were typically used were 4 acre Rhombics or
similar, so they were spread out over a relatively broad area of land able
to react to the ionospheric changes causing the fading. Don't see how you
can do it with just two antennas without having them reasonably separated
and some way of detecting the change in signal strength to select the
appropriate antenna.

Interesting thought however

JB

 

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[Drakelist] TR 3

[John Gartman]

I just picked up a TR 3 and have enjoyed learning about tube ham radios. I
did get a copy of a manual which has been very helpful.

I read all the TR 3 posts in the archives and figured out it needed the
jumper resoldered on the VFO plug and now it works and it 

gets better every day.  I am going to send it to Jeff in Ohio for new caps
and a tune up and have the power supply rebuilt.

I do find it is the loudest on 20 meters 40 is good 80 meters is nice and
quiet and clear. 10 and 15 meters I have heard people out 

there but the  volume is very low. Is this just the way they work or could
it be bad paper caps? Anyway thanks for having this group, 

I will go back and read anything for the 3 and 4 series to see what else I
can learn.

 

John Gartman KJ6OAS

Ventura, Ca

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Re: [Drakelist] Yet another Drake TR7 X-Lock Implementation

[john]

I've never noticed my TR7 wandering around in frequency after about 30 sec 
of warm up.  I grew up on tube gear so I'm not real fussy about such stuff, 
but I don't think it drifts any more than my Omni VI+ for example.


Just another data point
John K5MO



At 08:31 PM 7/24/2011, Jim Shorney wrote:

That is indeed very interesting. I shouldn't think that it would do that. 
Makes

me wonder if there isn't something else going on somewhere.

73

-Jim

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 17:27:50 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:

>Jim,
>My observations on the TR7's PTO is that if the ambient room temperature 
is around 70 F, the PTO is quite stable after initial warm up.  If on the 
other hand the house temperature is something other than 70 F the thing 
wants to go all over the place and never really settles down. Oh, I do 
have the FA-7, and it was used during the above observations.

>
>The X-lock was the absolute best time and $$ investment that I put into 
my TR7.

>
>73,
>Ron WD8SBB
>
>--- On Sun, 7/24/11, Jim Shorney  wrote:
>
>> From: Jim Shorney 
>> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Yet another Drake TR7 X-Lock Implementation
>> To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
>> Date: Sunday, July 24, 2011, 1:42 PM
>> On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 11:28:34 -0400,
>> Curt Nixon wrote:
>>
>> >The TR-7 is not as good.  I might re-direct the
>> x-lock to the TR-7 this
>> >winter.  I also really like the meter
>> treatment.  Nice write-up, thanks.
>>
>> I think the TR-7 is more prone to thermal drift from
>> temperature variations
>> over transmit-receive cycles. My tests have shown that
>> adding an FA-7 (or
>> equivalent) fan, properly oriented to pull air out of the
>> radio, helps with
>> this. Running on an RV-7 also helps. My TR-7 drifted more
>> than it should have
>> before I opened up the PTO and checked things over in
>> there. It's been long
>> enough ago that I don't remember, but I imagine I probably
>> touched up some
>> solder joints. I'm really picky that way... :)
>>
>> 73
>>
>> -Jim
>>
>>
>> --
>> Ham Radio NU0C
>> Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
>> TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A,
>> R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage,
>> all the time!
>>
>> "Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him
>> to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime."
>>
>> HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
>> http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
>> http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
>>
>>
>>
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--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and 
he will learn for a lifetime."


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] R-4A PTO

[John Boyle]

Just to stir the pot a bit - the 6AU6 in the PTO of my R-4 works quite well and 
replacements (6AU6A or 7543) are easily obtained.  It's also much easier to 
replace a tube than a transistor.  I suppose that Drake had reasons for 
replacing tubes with transistors as the R-4 evolved into the R-4C, but my R-4 
is quite stable and I only wish thet my T-4X had the same PTO.

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Re: [Drakelist] Yet another Drake TR7 X-Lock Implementation

[john]

That reversed meter sure looks slick Don!

Best
John K5MO


At 08:21 PM 7/23/2011, Don Buska - The Radio Lab Works wrote:
Recently completed installation of the Cumbria Designs X-Lock in my 
TR7.  I'm extremely happy with the final results.  Just thought I'd post a 
link to my webpage relating to a small twist I made relating to the 
tri-color status LED placement.


I hope you guys find it a good alternative to using the FIXED lamp on the TR7.

http://www.radiolabworks.com/labworks/tr7_xlock/tr7xlock.htm

BTW, has anyone installed the X-Lock in any of the 4-Line equipment?

73

Don N9OO

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